文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.), with their smooth, white blossoms, exude serenity and calm. Although they are not actually lilies, these plants are among the most common tropical plants grown as houseplants in this country. Peace lilies are tough and resilient, but they are susceptible to a few pests and diseases. Read on more information about peace lily plant problems, including common diseases in Spathiphyllum plants.
Peace Lily Plant Problems
Peace lilies may be tropical plants but they do not require kid-glove care. On the other hand, the better your cultural care matches the plant’s needs, the less peace lily plant problems you are likely to encounter.
Peace lilies need indirect light, never direct light. If you position your plant a couple of feet from a window, it should be fine. Another alternative is to put it near fluorescent lights. Sufficient light is essential to preventing diseases in Spathiphyllum. These lovely plants prefer a humid location. They thrive in warm, moist conditions. You can satisfy your peace lily and avoid peace lily plant problems by keeping the temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18-26 C.). Increase the humidity for your peace lily by setting the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water. Watering too often can bring on diseases of peace lily plants. Wait until you see the plant wilting before adding more water.
Pests and Diseases of Peace Lily Plants
Taking good care of your peace lily will mean it’s less likely to suffer from pests and diseases. Remove all dead leaves from the plant and the pot. Wipe down green leaves with a damp cloth occasionally to remove dust. Check the plant’s leaves for pests like spider mites, mealybugsand scale. These might have come into your home on other plants and can cause peace lily plant problems if not removed or treated. When it comes to diseases of peace lily plants, the two most common diseases in Spathiphyllum are Cylindrocladium spathiphylli and Phytophthora parasitica, both causing root rot diseases. The former type of root rot is transferred among plants by infected water, the second by infected soil.
If your plant has root rot, you’ll need to think about treating peace lily diseases. First, try to figure out what your plant has. You’ll recognize root rot disease in Spathiphyllum if you notice that a peace lily has yellowing leaves and a wilting appearance. If its roots are also rotting, it likely has root rot. Oftentimes, cleaning off the roots and repotting the plant in fresh, healthy soil will help.
Peace Lily Plant Problems
Peace lilies may be tropical plants but they do not require kid-glove care. On the other hand, the better your cultural care matches the plant’s needs, the less peace lily plant problems you are likely to encounter.
Peace lilies need indirect light, never direct light. If you position your plant a couple of feet from a window, it should be fine. Another alternative is to put it near fluorescent lights. Sufficient light is essential to preventing diseases in Spathiphyllum. These lovely plants prefer a humid location. They thrive in warm, moist conditions. You can satisfy your peace lily and avoid peace lily plant problems by keeping the temperature between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18-26 C.). Increase the humidity for your peace lily by setting the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water. Watering too often can bring on diseases of peace lily plants. Wait until you see the plant wilting before adding more water.
Pests and Diseases of Peace Lily Plants
Taking good care of your peace lily will mean it’s less likely to suffer from pests and diseases. Remove all dead leaves from the plant and the pot. Wipe down green leaves with a damp cloth occasionally to remove dust. Check the plant’s leaves for pests like spider mites, mealybugsand scale. These might have come into your home on other plants and can cause peace lily plant problems if not removed or treated. When it comes to diseases of peace lily plants, the two most common diseases in Spathiphyllum are Cylindrocladium spathiphylli and Phytophthora parasitica, both causing root rot diseases. The former type of root rot is transferred among plants by infected water, the second by infected soil.
If your plant has root rot, you’ll need to think about treating peace lily diseases. First, try to figure out what your plant has. You’ll recognize root rot disease in Spathiphyllum if you notice that a peace lily has yellowing leaves and a wilting appearance. If its roots are also rotting, it likely has root rot. Oftentimes, cleaning off the roots and repotting the plant in fresh, healthy soil will help.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum), also known as closet plants, are a popular choice for offices and homes. When it comes to indoor plants, peace lily plants are some of the easiest to care for. But, while peace lily plant care is easy, proper growing conditions are still important. Let’s take a look at the care of peace lilies.
Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants
Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.
Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering. Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy.
Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants
Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.
Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering. Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy.
Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Pachira aquatica is a commonly found houseplant called a money tree. The plant is also known as Malabar chestnut or Saba nut. Money tree plants often have their slender trunks braided together and are a low maintenance option for artificially lit areas. Money tree plant care is easy and based upon just a few specific conditions. Let’s learn more about how to care for money tree houseplants.
Pachira Money Tree
Money tree plants are native from Mexico to northern South America. The trees can get up to 60 feet in their native habitats but are more commonly small, potted ornamental specimens. The plant has slim green stems topped with palmate leaves.
In its native region, money tree plants produce fruits that are oval green pods divided into five chambers inside. The seeds within the fruit swell until the pod bursts. Roasted nuts taste a bit like chestnuts and can be used ground into flour. The plants get their name because the Feng Shui practice believes it will bring luck to the owner of this fun little plant.
Growing a Money Tree Houseplant
USDA zones 10 and 11 are suitable for growing a money tree houseplant. In colder regions, you should only grow this plant indoors, as it is not considered cold hardy. The Pachira money tree is a perfect addition to the interior landscape and lends a tropical feel. If you want to have some fun, try starting your own Pachira money tree from seed or from cuttings. These plants do best when they are in full sun to partial shade. The best temperatures are 60 to 65 F. (16-18 C.). Plant the tree in peat moss with some gritty sand.
How to Care for Money Tree
These plants like a moderately humid room and deep but infrequent watering. Water the plants until the water runs from the drainage holes and then let them dry out between watering. If your home is on the dry side, you can increase the humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles. Keep the saucer filled with water and the evaporation will enhance the humidity of the area. Remember to fertilize every two weeks as part of good money tree plant care. Use a liquid plant food diluted by half. Suspend fertilizing in winter. The Pachira plant rarely needs to be pruned but as part of your annual money tree plant care, take off any damaged or dead plant material. The plant should be repotted every two years in a clean peat mixture. Try not to move the plant around a lot. Money tree plants dislike being moved and respond by dropping their leaves. Also keep them away from drafty areas. Move your Pachira money tree outside in summer to an area with dappled light, but don’t forget to move it back in before fall.
Pachira Money Tree
Money tree plants are native from Mexico to northern South America. The trees can get up to 60 feet in their native habitats but are more commonly small, potted ornamental specimens. The plant has slim green stems topped with palmate leaves.
In its native region, money tree plants produce fruits that are oval green pods divided into five chambers inside. The seeds within the fruit swell until the pod bursts. Roasted nuts taste a bit like chestnuts and can be used ground into flour. The plants get their name because the Feng Shui practice believes it will bring luck to the owner of this fun little plant.
Growing a Money Tree Houseplant
USDA zones 10 and 11 are suitable for growing a money tree houseplant. In colder regions, you should only grow this plant indoors, as it is not considered cold hardy. The Pachira money tree is a perfect addition to the interior landscape and lends a tropical feel. If you want to have some fun, try starting your own Pachira money tree from seed or from cuttings. These plants do best when they are in full sun to partial shade. The best temperatures are 60 to 65 F. (16-18 C.). Plant the tree in peat moss with some gritty sand.
How to Care for Money Tree
These plants like a moderately humid room and deep but infrequent watering. Water the plants until the water runs from the drainage holes and then let them dry out between watering. If your home is on the dry side, you can increase the humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles. Keep the saucer filled with water and the evaporation will enhance the humidity of the area. Remember to fertilize every two weeks as part of good money tree plant care. Use a liquid plant food diluted by half. Suspend fertilizing in winter. The Pachira plant rarely needs to be pruned but as part of your annual money tree plant care, take off any damaged or dead plant material. The plant should be repotted every two years in a clean peat mixture. Try not to move the plant around a lot. Money tree plants dislike being moved and respond by dropping their leaves. Also keep them away from drafty areas. Move your Pachira money tree outside in summer to an area with dappled light, but don’t forget to move it back in before fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
For unique interest in the home, look for the Fittonia nerve plant. When purchasing these plants, be aware it may also be called the mosaic plant or painted net leaf. Growing nerve plants is easy and so is nerve plant care.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lucky bamboo plants (Dracaena sanderiana) are common houseplants, and are fun and easy to grow. Indoors, they can quickly reach a height of 3 feet (91 cm.) or more, prompting gardeners to ask, “Can you prune lucky bamboo?” Fortunately, the answer to that question is a resounding “yes!”—and it is a cinch to do.
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
With broad, dark green, fan-shaped foliage on tall stalks, lady palm plants (Rhapis excelsa) have an oriental appeal. As stand-alone plants, they have a formal elegance and when planted in masses they lend a touch of the tropics to the landscape. Outdoors they can reach heights of 6 to 12 feet with a spread of 3 to 12 feet. When grown in the confines of a container, they stay much smaller.
Lady Palm Care Indoors
Place your lady palm plant near an east-facing window, out of direct sunlight. They thrive in comfortable indoor temperatures of between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Water the palm when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch in spring and summer. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry to a depth of two inches. Drench the soil with water until it comes out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and empty the saucer under the pot after 20 to 30 minutes. When the plant becomes so large and heavy that it is hard to empty the saucer, set it on top of a layer of pebbles to prevent the soil from reabsorbing the moisture.
Repot a lady palm plant every two years, increasing the size of the pot each time until it is as large as you want it to grow. After it has reached the desired size, repot every two years or so into the same pot or a pot of the same size to refresh the potting soil. African violet potting mix is ideal for growing lady palms. Take care not to over-fertilize a lady palm plant. Feed them only in summer using half-strength liquid houseplant fertilizer. With proper care, the plant should last for several years.
How to Care for a Lady Palm Outdoors
Outdoors, large plantings of lady finger palms may remind you of bamboo, but without the invasive tendencies. Plant them as you would hedges on 3- to 4-foot centers to form a screen or backdrop. They also make nice specimen plants. Outdoor plants produce fragrant, yellow flowers in spring. Lady palms are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8b through 12. They need full or partial shade. Although they adapt well to a variety of soil types, they perform best in a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Water often enough to keep the soil lightly moist where practical. The plants tolerate moderate drought. Use a palm fertilizer, according to the label instructions, no more than once a year.
Lady Palm Care Indoors
Place your lady palm plant near an east-facing window, out of direct sunlight. They thrive in comfortable indoor temperatures of between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Water the palm when the soil is dry to a depth of 1 inch in spring and summer. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry to a depth of two inches. Drench the soil with water until it comes out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and empty the saucer under the pot after 20 to 30 minutes. When the plant becomes so large and heavy that it is hard to empty the saucer, set it on top of a layer of pebbles to prevent the soil from reabsorbing the moisture.
Repot a lady palm plant every two years, increasing the size of the pot each time until it is as large as you want it to grow. After it has reached the desired size, repot every two years or so into the same pot or a pot of the same size to refresh the potting soil. African violet potting mix is ideal for growing lady palms. Take care not to over-fertilize a lady palm plant. Feed them only in summer using half-strength liquid houseplant fertilizer. With proper care, the plant should last for several years.
How to Care for a Lady Palm Outdoors
Outdoors, large plantings of lady finger palms may remind you of bamboo, but without the invasive tendencies. Plant them as you would hedges on 3- to 4-foot centers to form a screen or backdrop. They also make nice specimen plants. Outdoor plants produce fragrant, yellow flowers in spring. Lady palms are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8b through 12. They need full or partial shade. Although they adapt well to a variety of soil types, they perform best in a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Water often enough to keep the soil lightly moist where practical. The plants tolerate moderate drought. Use a palm fertilizer, according to the label instructions, no more than once a year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
The indoor panda plant is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Kalanchoe panda plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the décor. Keep reading to answer the question of what is Kalanchoe tormentosa and how to grow a panda plant indoors.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It is easy to grow the Kalanchoe chandelier plant — so easy, in fact, you have to learn to control its spread as a part of caring for chandelier plants. Growing Kalanchoe delagoensis can be worth all this trouble when you learn how to keep it under control, especially when the orange blooms appear. Kalanchoe delagoensis, also known as Kalanchoe chandelier or mother of millions (and is often confused with mother of thousands, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), is an upright succulent with creeping tendrils bunching together on a single stem. This offers an unusual effect in the container or even in a portion of the sunny garden. Kalanchoe chandelier is hardy in drought stricken, desert areas where thriving plant life may be limited. This Kalanchoe species can exist on limited seasonal rainfall, storing water for existence due to succulent capabilities.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
I received a Kalanchoe as a gift plant this summer and I am now struggling to get it to bloom anew. Kalanchoe is an African native that has become a common house guest in North American homes. These plants require low light conditions to force budding. Ideally, the plant should experience 14 hours of lightless conditions to promote budding and bloom. Getting Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a bit of a rest period for the plant, correct lighting and some good fertilizer to fuel the process. A few tips on how to make a Kalanchoe rebloom will ensure success and a beautiful flowering houseplant in winter. 
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
Kalanchoe Bloom Time
Usually, the plant is in full bloom at purchase and produces a constant parade of flowers for weeks or even months. Kalanchoes are forced to bloom by nurseries, in order to present their flowers for purchasers. When does Kalanchoe bloom naturally? In its native region, Kalanchoe can bloom almost year around, but as a container houseplant, it is most commonly blooming in late winter to late spring. This cycle will slow down as lighting increases.
Getting a Kalanchoe to bloom again requires a rest period for the plant and then tricking it into thinking it is a different time of year. Exposure to lower light levels during fall and winter will generally encourage the plant to bloom, but plants in higher light regions will need some closet time to mimic the lower light hours of a winter hibernation. A hibernation, or rest period, is necessary for the plant to amass energy for blooming and growth when conditions are favorable. Keeping the plant in no light for this period will awaken the plant from its winter slumber and cause flower production. Failing to provide a rest period is often the reason getting Kalanchoe to bloom again may be unsuccessful.
How to Make a Kalanchoe Rebloom
After the flowers on your plant begin to fade and die, cut them back and remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from directing energy to trying to sustain a part that is already spent. During the summer, keep the plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location and maintain a moderate moisture level. When fall arrives, cut back on water and move the plant indoors if you are in a zone below USDA 9 or where frost is expected. The plant will experience low light conditions from fall to late winter, which normally causes flowers to form. Fertilize with a 0-10-10 in late winter or just as the first buds are forming. This will promote better and more Kalanchoe flowering and enhance plant health and vigor.
Tricking a Kalanchoe into Blooming
If you want your plant to bloom at a specific time, such as Christmas, you will need to do some planning. Minimize watering and give the plant a 14-hour period without light daily 6 weeks before the desired bloom time. Place the plant in a closet or under a box for 14 hours and provide 10 hours of bright light. Keep the plant warm and away from drafts. Do not water or feed the plant for 6 weeks, as it is dormant. As soon as you see flower buds, move the plant to brighter lighting and resume watering. Feed the plant in spring and remove spent flowers to encourage new buds. These plants are easy to grow and provide up to 6 months of beautiful little flowers and thick attractively scalloped leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. The clusters of tiny flowers produce a large bloom held aloft on stems above the majority of the foliage. If you wish a second bloom, it is incumbent to know how to take care of a kalanchoe. These plants need short winter light periods to form new buds. Learn how to grow kalanchoe and the perennial can reward you with several seasons of the bright colorful flowers.
About Kalanchoe Plants
The deep green, scalloped leaves of the kalanchoe are just as attractive as the flowers. The sculpted foliage persists after bloom and provides for a handsome plant. The starry flowers are long lasting and bloom in winter to spring. Kalanchoe plants require well-drained soil and mild temperatures of at least 60 F. (16 C.). Little maintenance is necessary for kalanchoe care and the succulent has few disease or pest problems, especially when grown indoors.
How to Grow Kalanchoe Cuttings
Kalanchoe plants are fun to grow from cuttings. The vegetative stems produce the best plants and root quickest. Take a 2- to 3-inch section and strip off the bottom couple of leaves. Let the cutting sit out in a warm, dry location to form a callus on the end. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened peat and perlite up to the first leaf. Enclose the entire pot in plastic to form a little terrarium and conserve the moisture. Place the pot in a bright window with indirect light. Cuttings will root in 14 to 21 days and are then ready to transplant.
How to Take Care of a Kalanchoe
Plants may grow well in southern Florida year round or outside in USDA zones 8 to 10 during the summer months. Kalanchoe care is minimal but be cautious about light levels. Strong southern light can burn the tips of the leaves. Place pots in partial sun to light shade areas when growing kalachoe plants. The best planting mix is 60 percent peat moss and 40 percent perlite. Cut off spent flower stems and pinch back leggy growth to force a compact plant. Water the plant deeply and then allow it to dry out completely before you give it further moisture. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a houseplant food.
Kalanchoe Care for Second Bloom
Although the plant foliage of growing kalanchoe succulent plants is interesting even without blooms, the flowers make the most spectacular display. To force the plant to bloom again, you must fool it into believing it has experienced winter. During October and early March, the day lengths are short enough to naturally force flower buds. In other periods, you will have to put the plant in a closet or dim room for most of the day. Bring it out only for morning light and then put it away after a few hours. The plant needs six weeks of 12 to 14 hour darkness to form spectacular new flowers. The best temperatures for formation of flowers are 40-45 F. (4-7 C.) at night and 60 F. (16 C.) during the day. Kalanchoe care for plants that have begun to form buds is the same as that for flowering plants.
About Kalanchoe Plants
The deep green, scalloped leaves of the kalanchoe are just as attractive as the flowers. The sculpted foliage persists after bloom and provides for a handsome plant. The starry flowers are long lasting and bloom in winter to spring. Kalanchoe plants require well-drained soil and mild temperatures of at least 60 F. (16 C.). Little maintenance is necessary for kalanchoe care and the succulent has few disease or pest problems, especially when grown indoors.
How to Grow Kalanchoe Cuttings
Kalanchoe plants are fun to grow from cuttings. The vegetative stems produce the best plants and root quickest. Take a 2- to 3-inch section and strip off the bottom couple of leaves. Let the cutting sit out in a warm, dry location to form a callus on the end. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened peat and perlite up to the first leaf. Enclose the entire pot in plastic to form a little terrarium and conserve the moisture. Place the pot in a bright window with indirect light. Cuttings will root in 14 to 21 days and are then ready to transplant.
How to Take Care of a Kalanchoe
Plants may grow well in southern Florida year round or outside in USDA zones 8 to 10 during the summer months. Kalanchoe care is minimal but be cautious about light levels. Strong southern light can burn the tips of the leaves. Place pots in partial sun to light shade areas when growing kalachoe plants. The best planting mix is 60 percent peat moss and 40 percent perlite. Cut off spent flower stems and pinch back leggy growth to force a compact plant. Water the plant deeply and then allow it to dry out completely before you give it further moisture. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a houseplant food.
Kalanchoe Care for Second Bloom
Although the plant foliage of growing kalanchoe succulent plants is interesting even without blooms, the flowers make the most spectacular display. To force the plant to bloom again, you must fool it into believing it has experienced winter. During October and early March, the day lengths are short enough to naturally force flower buds. In other periods, you will have to put the plant in a closet or dim room for most of the day. Bring it out only for morning light and then put it away after a few hours. The plant needs six weeks of 12 to 14 hour darkness to form spectacular new flowers. The best temperatures for formation of flowers are 40-45 F. (4-7 C.) at night and 60 F. (16 C.) during the day. Kalanchoe care for plants that have begun to form buds is the same as that for flowering plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Also known as emerald creeper, jade vine plants (Strongylodon macrobotrys) are so extravagant that you have to see to believe. Jade vine is known for its spectacular blooms consisting of dangling clusters of shimmering greenish-blue, claw-shaped flowers. The huge, pendant-like clusters are suspended from twisting, wisteria-like stems with waxy green leaves. Read on for more information about growing jade vines and jade vine care.
Growing Jade Vines
This tropical climber is rambunctious in its natural environment, although the plant is in danger of extinction due to deforestation. If you’re interested in growing jade vines, you may have success growing the vine in the ground if you live in USDA plant hardiness zone 10 through 11. Jade vine plants are also well suited for growing in greenhouses. You may be able to grow jade vine as a houseplant, too, if you can provide the proper growing conditions. Keep in mind that you may not see blooms until the second year; the vine won’t bloom until the base of the stem is at least ¾-inch in diameter.
Care of Jade Vines
Since most of us may not reside in a suitable area, growing jade vine as a houseplant is the best option. Jade vine care requires giving the plant plenty of direct sunlight and temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.), as lower temperatures may damage the roots. Your plant will be happiest in a clay pot that allows the roots to breathe. Use a peat-based potting mix that drains easily. Provide a sturdy trellis for the vine to climb, or place your plant in a hanging basket (until it becomes too heavy).
Water jade vine only when the top of the soil is visibly dry, then water slowly until excess moisture drips through the drainage hole. Although the plant thrives in high humidity, it tolerates normal room humidity. However, if your room is very dry, you can increase the humidity around the plant by setting the pot on a tray with a layer of damp pebbles. Jade vine plants aren’t heavy feeders and a mixture of ½ teaspoon of water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant twice a month during spring and summer, and withhold fertilizer during fall and winter. Any type of balanced fertilizer is suitable, or you can use a fertilizer formulated for blooming plants. Trim your jade vine plant after blooming, but be careful of hard pruning because the plant blooms on both old and new growth; hard pruning will delay blooming.
Growing Jade Vines
This tropical climber is rambunctious in its natural environment, although the plant is in danger of extinction due to deforestation. If you’re interested in growing jade vines, you may have success growing the vine in the ground if you live in USDA plant hardiness zone 10 through 11. Jade vine plants are also well suited for growing in greenhouses. You may be able to grow jade vine as a houseplant, too, if you can provide the proper growing conditions. Keep in mind that you may not see blooms until the second year; the vine won’t bloom until the base of the stem is at least ¾-inch in diameter.
Care of Jade Vines
Since most of us may not reside in a suitable area, growing jade vine as a houseplant is the best option. Jade vine care requires giving the plant plenty of direct sunlight and temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.), as lower temperatures may damage the roots. Your plant will be happiest in a clay pot that allows the roots to breathe. Use a peat-based potting mix that drains easily. Provide a sturdy trellis for the vine to climb, or place your plant in a hanging basket (until it becomes too heavy).
Water jade vine only when the top of the soil is visibly dry, then water slowly until excess moisture drips through the drainage hole. Although the plant thrives in high humidity, it tolerates normal room humidity. However, if your room is very dry, you can increase the humidity around the plant by setting the pot on a tray with a layer of damp pebbles. Jade vine plants aren’t heavy feeders and a mixture of ½ teaspoon of water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water is plenty. Feed the plant twice a month during spring and summer, and withhold fertilizer during fall and winter. Any type of balanced fertilizer is suitable, or you can use a fertilizer formulated for blooming plants. Trim your jade vine plant after blooming, but be careful of hard pruning because the plant blooms on both old and new growth; hard pruning will delay blooming.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
When it comes to indoor plants, a variegated ivy plant can add some sparkle and jazz to an otherwise boring room, but care of a variegated ivy differs somewhat from the care of other kinds of ivy. Read on to learn more about variegated ivy care.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
Basic Care of a Variegated Ivy Plant
Variegated ivy leaves will typically have green and white or yellow markings. The white and yellow areas on the variegated ivy leaves lack chlorophyll. Chlorophyll serves many purposes, the main ones being producing food for the variegated ivy plant and protecting the plant from the rays of the sun.
This means that because of the variegation, variegated ivy care is slightly different than normal green ivy care. First, a variegated ivy plant needs less sunlight and it must be placed out of direct sunlight. Proper care of a variegated ivy requires that you place the ivy plant in indirect or filtered bright sunlight. Variegated ivy leaves will burn if placed in direct sunlight. Variegated ivy will do best on a window sill behind a sheer curtain.
The second secret to variegated ivy care is to significantly reduce the amount of fertilizer you give the plant. Because variegated ivy leaves have less chlorophyll, the plant produces less energy for growth. This means variegated ivy plants grow much slower than their all green cousins. Because they grow slower, they need much less food in the soil. The best fertilizer care of a variegated ivy is to fertilize only once a year, at most. Even then, do so only lightly. If you fertilize your variegated ivy any more than this, excess fertilizer will build up in the soil and can kill your plant.
Keeping Variegated Ivy Leaves Variegated
Variegated ivy leaves are caused by a genetic factor in the ivy plant, but, without proper variegated ivy care, a variegated ivy plant can revert to the more standard green leaves. One key factor is sunlight. While a variegated ivy plant can’t take direct sunlight, they do need bright sunlight. Without bright sunlight, the plant cannot make enough food from its chlorophyll to support itself. In order to survive, the plant will start to grow leaves with more green area. If left like this, the plant will eventually grow only green on the leaves. If this occurs, move the plant to brighter sunlight. The variegated ivy leaves should return over time. Occasionally, a variegated ivy plant will spontaneously revert to green leaves. You will know if this occurs because only part of the plant will be growing green leaves while the rest is fully variegated. If this happens, simply trim off the non-variegated ivy leaves to encourage growth of the right colored leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lots of plants that we grow outside as ornamentals are actually warm weather perennials that can be grown year round indoors. As long as these plants receive plenty of sunlight, they can be kept as houseplants all year or just moved inside when the weather gets colder. Keep reading to learn more about ornamental plants you can grow indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Giving potted plants as gifts is growing in popularity, and with good reason. Potted plants are rarely more expensive than cut flowers, but they last much longer. With the right kind of care, they can even last for years. That said, not all potted plants are good gift ideas and, unfortunately, not all potted plant gifts can be persuaded to bloom again. Keep reading to learn about giving potted plants as gifts and caring for gifted container plants.
Ideas for Potted Plant Gifts
When you’re looking to give flowering plants as gifts, you want to choose something that’s easy to care for. Unless you know your recipient to be an avid gardener who likes a challenge, you should opt for something that’s very low maintenance. Remember, you want to give a decoration, not a responsibility.
There are a few especially popular potted plant gifts that are known for their ease of care. African violets are an excellent choice for low light, and they’ll keep flowering almost year round. Clivia is a very hardy houseplant that blooms red and orange around Christmas and can last for years and years with little care. Small herbs, like lavender and rosemary, are the whole package: easy to care for, fragrant, and useful.
Potted Plants vs. Cut Flowers
If you’ve been given flowering plants as gifts, you may be at a loss as to what to do with them. Cut flowers, of course, will only last so long and then must be tossed. Most potted plants, however, can be replanted in the garden or left to grow in their pots. Unfortunately, some potted plants, like mums, are likely to last only one season. Flowering bulb plants, like tulips and hyacinths, can be saved for years. After they’re done blooming, place the pots outdoors or in a sunny window and keep watering them. They won’t bloom again this season, but the foliage will continue to grow. Later, when the foliage withers and yellows naturally, cut it off and dig up the bulbs. Dry them in a cool dark place and store them until the fall, when you can plant them in another pot or directly in your garden. They should come up naturally in the spring.
Azaleas and African violets can be kept in their pots to bloom for years. Hydrangeas, lily of the valley, and begonias can be transplanted out into the garden.
Ideas for Potted Plant Gifts
When you’re looking to give flowering plants as gifts, you want to choose something that’s easy to care for. Unless you know your recipient to be an avid gardener who likes a challenge, you should opt for something that’s very low maintenance. Remember, you want to give a decoration, not a responsibility.
There are a few especially popular potted plant gifts that are known for their ease of care. African violets are an excellent choice for low light, and they’ll keep flowering almost year round. Clivia is a very hardy houseplant that blooms red and orange around Christmas and can last for years and years with little care. Small herbs, like lavender and rosemary, are the whole package: easy to care for, fragrant, and useful.
Potted Plants vs. Cut Flowers
If you’ve been given flowering plants as gifts, you may be at a loss as to what to do with them. Cut flowers, of course, will only last so long and then must be tossed. Most potted plants, however, can be replanted in the garden or left to grow in their pots. Unfortunately, some potted plants, like mums, are likely to last only one season. Flowering bulb plants, like tulips and hyacinths, can be saved for years. After they’re done blooming, place the pots outdoors or in a sunny window and keep watering them. They won’t bloom again this season, but the foliage will continue to grow. Later, when the foliage withers and yellows naturally, cut it off and dig up the bulbs. Dry them in a cool dark place and store them until the fall, when you can plant them in another pot or directly in your garden. They should come up naturally in the spring.
Azaleas and African violets can be kept in their pots to bloom for years. Hydrangeas, lily of the valley, and begonias can be transplanted out into the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Large Victorian homes often featured solariums, open, airy parlors and conservatories as well as greenhouses. Plants were an important part of the interior decor with some Victorian era houseplants the overwhelming stars. The most popular Victorian houseplants of the day are still around today and can add a touch of old world elegance to your home interior. Read on for some options that will bring a touch of nostalgia and sophistication to your home.
Houseplants Victorian Style
Nostalgic fads of the Victorian era have a classic stylishness even today. Some of the more interesting home decor practices involved the use of plants inside. Plants were inexpensive, brought the outdoors in and could change a room in a heartbeat from a fussy, old maid’s parlor to a tropical haven. Most of us have heard of the use of palms as parlor plants. In fact, there is a variety that is called the parlor palm. But other than these easy to grow, graceful plants, what other greenery did Victorian era homes use to brighten the interior?
Houseplants were incorporated in many rooms of the home. For instance:
The summer fireplace was turned into a miniature garden to hide the smoke stained gaping hole that wouldn’t be used for months. Window gardens were also popular and a host of hanging supports were available to suspend plants right in front of the best lighting in the home. Victorian indoor plants were also often contained in Wardian cases. These were similar to a terrarium and often featured a handsome case and elaborate stand. Parlor plants made inviting hosts to guests as they arrived for a visit. Houseplants Victorian style were also usually in containers that ranged from elegant to opulent. Display was as important as the plant.
Types of Victorian Indoor Plants
Victorian era houseplants might simply be plants dug up from the local woods or those that were imported and exotic varieties. Among some other favorites included:
Palms
Ferns
Jasmine
Heliotropes
Potted citrus trees
Sword ferns and later Boston ferns were graceful additions to any room and still carry an air of chic about them today. Cast iron plant is an indestructible specimen that even a gardener with a black thumb can manage to keep alive. Depending upon the exposure available in the home, flowering specimens would often be incorporated into the décor as well. Abutilons, or parlor maples, are native to Brazil and were popular Victorian houseplants. These have papery, dangling hibiscus type flowers and leaves shaped like lacy maples. Jerusalem cherry, native to Peru, brought a festive touch at the holidays with white flowers that become reddish-orange berries.
With the advent of easier travel, more and more interesting and unique houseplants began to arrive and soon the possibilities were nearly endless. Satisfying the Victorian green thumb became much easier and we can enjoy the same selection of plants today.
Houseplants Victorian Style
Nostalgic fads of the Victorian era have a classic stylishness even today. Some of the more interesting home decor practices involved the use of plants inside. Plants were inexpensive, brought the outdoors in and could change a room in a heartbeat from a fussy, old maid’s parlor to a tropical haven. Most of us have heard of the use of palms as parlor plants. In fact, there is a variety that is called the parlor palm. But other than these easy to grow, graceful plants, what other greenery did Victorian era homes use to brighten the interior?
Houseplants were incorporated in many rooms of the home. For instance:
The summer fireplace was turned into a miniature garden to hide the smoke stained gaping hole that wouldn’t be used for months. Window gardens were also popular and a host of hanging supports were available to suspend plants right in front of the best lighting in the home. Victorian indoor plants were also often contained in Wardian cases. These were similar to a terrarium and often featured a handsome case and elaborate stand. Parlor plants made inviting hosts to guests as they arrived for a visit. Houseplants Victorian style were also usually in containers that ranged from elegant to opulent. Display was as important as the plant.
Types of Victorian Indoor Plants
Victorian era houseplants might simply be plants dug up from the local woods or those that were imported and exotic varieties. Among some other favorites included:
Palms
Ferns
Jasmine
Heliotropes
Potted citrus trees
Sword ferns and later Boston ferns were graceful additions to any room and still carry an air of chic about them today. Cast iron plant is an indestructible specimen that even a gardener with a black thumb can manage to keep alive. Depending upon the exposure available in the home, flowering specimens would often be incorporated into the décor as well. Abutilons, or parlor maples, are native to Brazil and were popular Victorian houseplants. These have papery, dangling hibiscus type flowers and leaves shaped like lacy maples. Jerusalem cherry, native to Peru, brought a festive touch at the holidays with white flowers that become reddish-orange berries.
With the advent of easier travel, more and more interesting and unique houseplants began to arrive and soon the possibilities were nearly endless. Satisfying the Victorian green thumb became much easier and we can enjoy the same selection of plants today.
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