文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月05日
Description: This perennial wildflower is 4-8" in length (or longer), consisting of leafy stems with axillary flowers and seed capsules. The stems are light green and glabrous. The blades of alternate leaves are about 1-2½" long and ¾-1½" across; they are oval-cordate in shape and serrate-crenate along their margins. The base of each leaf blade is indented, while its tip is well-rounded to somewhat pointed. The upper blade surface is medium to dark green and glabrous, while the lower surface to light to medium green and glabrous. The slender petioles are about the same length as the leaf blades or shorter; they are light green and glabrous. At the base of each petiole, there is a pair of stipules up to ½" long. These stipules are linear-lanceolate in shape and coarsely toothed along their margins. Individual flowers develop from the axils of the leaves on slender pedicels about 1½-3" long; the flowers are usually held above the leaves. The pedicels are light green and glabrous; there is a pair of small linear bracts toward the middle of each pedicel.
Individual flowers are ½-¾" across, consisting of 5 pale blue-violet petals, 5 green sepals, and the reproductive organs. The style of each flower is bent downward at its tip, where it is not swollen. Dark blue-violet veins radiate away from the throat of each flower across the petals; the two lateral petals have tufts of white hair (or beards) toward their bases. The lower petal has a relatively long nectar spur about ¼" long; this spur is sometimes visible when the flower is viewed from the front (behind the upper 2 petals). The nectar spur is relatively stout and either straight or slightly hooked. The sepals are linear-lanceolate, sometimes toothed toward their bases, and hairless. The blooming period occurs during the middle of spring for about 1 month. Fertilized flowers produce an ovoid-oblongoid seed capsule about 1/3" long. This capsule splits open into 3 parts to fling the seeds from the mother plant. This wildflower also produces inconspicuous cleistogamous flowers during the summer, which are self-fertile; their seed capsules are similar to the earlier fertilized flowers. The small seeds are globoid in shape and light brown at maturity. The root system consists of a vertical crown with fibrous roots and horizontal rhizomes; clonal offsets are produced occasionally from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: During the spring, the preference is dappled sunlight to light shade, moist conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Later in the year, more shade is tolerated.
Range & Habitat: The native Dog Violet is found primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map). This wildflower is considered rare and it is state-listed as 'threatened.' Habitats include moist rich woodlands, swampy woodlands, and moist meadows in wooded areas. Sometimes this violet is found in slightly sandy habitats that are similar to the preceding ones. Dominant canopy trees in these habitats are typically ash, maple, or elm. Dog Violet is found in higher quality habitats where the original ground flora is still intact.
Faunal Associations: In this section, information about floral-faunal relationships applies to Viola spp. (Violets) in general. The flowers of violets are cross-pollinated primarily by various bees, including honeybees, bumblebees, Mason bees (Osmia spp.), Little Carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), digger bees (Synhalonia spp.), Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees. One bee species, Andrena violae (Violet Andrenid Bee), is a specialist pollinator of violets. Other floral visitors include bee flies (Bombylius spp.), small butterflies, skippers, and ants. Most of these insects suck nectar from the flowers, although some of the bees also collect pollen. Other insects feed on the foliage and other parts of violets. These insect feeders include the caterpillars of several Fritillary butterflies (Euptoieta claudia, Boloria spp., Speyeria spp.) and the caterpillars of several moths, including Elaphria grata (Grateful Midget), Eubaphe mendica (The Beggar), and Apantesis nais (Nais Tiger Moth). Other insect feeders include the thrips Odontothrips pictipennis, the aphid Neotoxoptera violae, and the larvae of Ametastegia pallipes (Violet Sawfly). Vertebrate animals feed on violets only to a limited extent. The White-Tailed Deer, Cottontail Rabbit, and Wood Turtle (Clemmys insculpta) sometimes browse on the foliage, while the White-Footed Mouse eats the seeds. Birds that feed on violets include the Mourning Dove (seeds), Ruffed Grouse (seed capsules, foliage), and Wild Turkey (seed capsules, rhizomes).
Photographic Location: A damp area of Goll Woods in NW Ohio, and a swampy woodland at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: This interesting species belongs to a small group of violets with blue-violet flowers, nectar spurs of above average length, and flowering leafy stems (as opposed to violets with basal leaves and flowers on separate non-leafy stalks). Aside from the Dog Violet, other species in this group include Viola labradorica (Alpine Violet), Viola adunca (Hook-Spurred Violet), and Viola walteri (Walter's Violet). While the Dog Violet has pale blue-violet flowers, these other violets often have medium to dark blue-violet flowers (among other minor differences). The Alpine Violet and Hook-Spurred Violet have a more northern boreal distribution, while Walter's Violet is more southern and Appalachian. None of these three species have been found in Illinois. Some authorities have proposed reducing the status of the Dog Violet to a variety of either the Alpine Violet or the Hook-Spurred Violet.
Individual flowers are ½-¾" across, consisting of 5 pale blue-violet petals, 5 green sepals, and the reproductive organs. The style of each flower is bent downward at its tip, where it is not swollen. Dark blue-violet veins radiate away from the throat of each flower across the petals; the two lateral petals have tufts of white hair (or beards) toward their bases. The lower petal has a relatively long nectar spur about ¼" long; this spur is sometimes visible when the flower is viewed from the front (behind the upper 2 petals). The nectar spur is relatively stout and either straight or slightly hooked. The sepals are linear-lanceolate, sometimes toothed toward their bases, and hairless. The blooming period occurs during the middle of spring for about 1 month. Fertilized flowers produce an ovoid-oblongoid seed capsule about 1/3" long. This capsule splits open into 3 parts to fling the seeds from the mother plant. This wildflower also produces inconspicuous cleistogamous flowers during the summer, which are self-fertile; their seed capsules are similar to the earlier fertilized flowers. The small seeds are globoid in shape and light brown at maturity. The root system consists of a vertical crown with fibrous roots and horizontal rhizomes; clonal offsets are produced occasionally from the rhizomes.
Cultivation: During the spring, the preference is dappled sunlight to light shade, moist conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Later in the year, more shade is tolerated.
Range & Habitat: The native Dog Violet is found primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map). This wildflower is considered rare and it is state-listed as 'threatened.' Habitats include moist rich woodlands, swampy woodlands, and moist meadows in wooded areas. Sometimes this violet is found in slightly sandy habitats that are similar to the preceding ones. Dominant canopy trees in these habitats are typically ash, maple, or elm. Dog Violet is found in higher quality habitats where the original ground flora is still intact.
Faunal Associations: In this section, information about floral-faunal relationships applies to Viola spp. (Violets) in general. The flowers of violets are cross-pollinated primarily by various bees, including honeybees, bumblebees, Mason bees (Osmia spp.), Little Carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), digger bees (Synhalonia spp.), Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees. One bee species, Andrena violae (Violet Andrenid Bee), is a specialist pollinator of violets. Other floral visitors include bee flies (Bombylius spp.), small butterflies, skippers, and ants. Most of these insects suck nectar from the flowers, although some of the bees also collect pollen. Other insects feed on the foliage and other parts of violets. These insect feeders include the caterpillars of several Fritillary butterflies (Euptoieta claudia, Boloria spp., Speyeria spp.) and the caterpillars of several moths, including Elaphria grata (Grateful Midget), Eubaphe mendica (The Beggar), and Apantesis nais (Nais Tiger Moth). Other insect feeders include the thrips Odontothrips pictipennis, the aphid Neotoxoptera violae, and the larvae of Ametastegia pallipes (Violet Sawfly). Vertebrate animals feed on violets only to a limited extent. The White-Tailed Deer, Cottontail Rabbit, and Wood Turtle (Clemmys insculpta) sometimes browse on the foliage, while the White-Footed Mouse eats the seeds. Birds that feed on violets include the Mourning Dove (seeds), Ruffed Grouse (seed capsules, foliage), and Wild Turkey (seed capsules, rhizomes).
Photographic Location: A damp area of Goll Woods in NW Ohio, and a swampy woodland at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore in NW Indiana.
Comments: This interesting species belongs to a small group of violets with blue-violet flowers, nectar spurs of above average length, and flowering leafy stems (as opposed to violets with basal leaves and flowers on separate non-leafy stalks). Aside from the Dog Violet, other species in this group include Viola labradorica (Alpine Violet), Viola adunca (Hook-Spurred Violet), and Viola walteri (Walter's Violet). While the Dog Violet has pale blue-violet flowers, these other violets often have medium to dark blue-violet flowers (among other minor differences). The Alpine Violet and Hook-Spurred Violet have a more northern boreal distribution, while Walter's Violet is more southern and Appalachian. None of these three species have been found in Illinois. Some authorities have proposed reducing the status of the Dog Violet to a variety of either the Alpine Violet or the Hook-Spurred Violet.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Across the month of March, gardeners in Tennessee prepare their soil beds in anticipation of planting potatoes. Rather than growing these vegetables from seeds, gardeners purchase small, healthy tubers called seed potatoes, which are certified disease-free. Since seed potatoes are planted in the ground and initially protected from frost, planting take place roughly two to four weeks before the average last spring frost date across the Volunteer State. The ideal garden site for potatoes is one with fertile, organic-rich soil that is moist and drains well. Full sun exposure ensures the best growth and production of tubers for harvest.
Step 1
Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March.
Step 2
Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation.
Step 3
Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured.
Step 4
Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5
Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores.
Step 6
Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart.
Step 7
Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
Step 1
Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March.
Step 2
Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation.
Step 3
Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured.
Step 4
Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5
Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores.
Step 6
Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart.
Step 7
Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月14日
Homegrown vegetables always have more flavor and taste than store-purchased products, including onions. Most homegrown onions start with seeds or what is called seed sets, but Egyptian and potato onion varieties can grow from vegetative parts of the original onion plant. Potato, or multiplier, onions form an underground compound bulb from the mother bulb. This compound bulb is composed of six to 12 individual onion bulbs. Egyptian onions, on the other hand, send up a shoot with tiny bulblets on top for planting. Gardeners primarily grow multipliers and Egyptian onion to harvest as green onions in the spring. They sometimes are known as winter onions.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where you intend to plant the onions by adding organic matter in a ratio of one part organic matter to two parts soil. Work the mixture with a shovel into the plot at a depth of six to eight inches. Onions need a rich, loamy soil that will drain well.
Step 2
Harvest the attached compound bulbs from the mother bulb for either type of onion. Carefully dig the multiplier onion's mother bulb from the ground and separate the attached smaller onion bulbs from it. Cut off the bulblet cluster from the center green stem on the Egyptian onion and separate the bulblets.
Step 3
Plant bulbs or bulblets one to two inches deep and spaced three to five inches apart. Dig a hole for each onion piece, place the onion pointed end up, and cover it with the amended soil. Gently pat down the soil surface to eliminate air pockets and ensure good contact between the piece and the soil.
Step 4
Apply a fertilize formulated to a 1-2-2 ratio, like 5-10-10, following the instructions, every four to six weeks until the first frost. In the spring, apply one more feeding when the temperatures begin to warm. Onions are heavy feeder and require additional supplements of phosphorus and potassium, but overfeeding can produce soft bulbs or burn plants.
Step 5
Apply three to six inches of mulch over the planted onions in colder climates when the temperatures drop to freezing to protect growing onions. Remove the mulch once temperatures warm in the spring.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where you intend to plant the onions by adding organic matter in a ratio of one part organic matter to two parts soil. Work the mixture with a shovel into the plot at a depth of six to eight inches. Onions need a rich, loamy soil that will drain well.
Step 2
Harvest the attached compound bulbs from the mother bulb for either type of onion. Carefully dig the multiplier onion's mother bulb from the ground and separate the attached smaller onion bulbs from it. Cut off the bulblet cluster from the center green stem on the Egyptian onion and separate the bulblets.
Step 3
Plant bulbs or bulblets one to two inches deep and spaced three to five inches apart. Dig a hole for each onion piece, place the onion pointed end up, and cover it with the amended soil. Gently pat down the soil surface to eliminate air pockets and ensure good contact between the piece and the soil.
Step 4
Apply a fertilize formulated to a 1-2-2 ratio, like 5-10-10, following the instructions, every four to six weeks until the first frost. In the spring, apply one more feeding when the temperatures begin to warm. Onions are heavy feeder and require additional supplements of phosphorus and potassium, but overfeeding can produce soft bulbs or burn plants.
Step 5
Apply three to six inches of mulch over the planted onions in colder climates when the temperatures drop to freezing to protect growing onions. Remove the mulch once temperatures warm in the spring.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
The definition of a vegetable is any edible portion of a plant that does not include a sweet fruit or seed. Vegetables typically consist of leafy, root and stem sections of plants; however, some plants labeled as vegetables are fruits by botanical definition. These mislabeled fruits are plants that contain seeds, but for culinary purposes, are vegetables because the plants lack sweetness.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Okra seeds need optimal conditions to germinate. The seed coat is thick and hard, inhibiting germination unless the seeds are treated to enhance germination. Some seeds are scarified with acid by the seed producer to increase germination rates. Check the package expiration date, old seeds are less likely to germinate. Under ideal conditions, your okra should germinate within seven days.
Conditions that Encourage Sprouting
Okra grows best in well-drained soils with a pH between 6.5 to 7.5. It is a hot-weather crop that prefers full sun. Sow the seeds directly into the garden or plant them in peat pots for later transplanting. Plant the seeds 3/4 to 1 inch deep in hills 12 to 24 inches apart. Plant two seeds per hole and thin the plants, leaving the strongest plant when they reach approximately 3 inches tall.
Soak the Seeds For Better Germination
Iowa State University Extension recommends soaking the seeds overnight before planting to soften the seed coat and increase the germination rate. Soaking for four to six hours will do the job. Either cover the seeds in water or wrap them in damp paper towels.
Freeze the Seeds for Better Germination
Another way to increase the chances of germination is to freeze the seeds before planting, according to the Clemson University Extension. Freezing breaks the seed coat and increases potential germination. Place the seeds in the freezer overnight before planting in warm soil.
Temperatures for Germination
Okra sprouts best in warm soil. Plant it in the spring or early summer when the soil temperature has reached at least 70 degrees F and the daytime temperatures are reaching 75 to 90 degrees. Okra seeds do not sprout in soil temperatures below 65 degrees.
Days to Maturity
Viable okra seeds germinate within seven days and then require approximately 48 to 75 days to maturity, depending on the variety. The plants and pods grow very fast and require picking every day or two to prevent the pods from becoming large and fibrous.
Conditions that Encourage Sprouting
Okra grows best in well-drained soils with a pH between 6.5 to 7.5. It is a hot-weather crop that prefers full sun. Sow the seeds directly into the garden or plant them in peat pots for later transplanting. Plant the seeds 3/4 to 1 inch deep in hills 12 to 24 inches apart. Plant two seeds per hole and thin the plants, leaving the strongest plant when they reach approximately 3 inches tall.
Soak the Seeds For Better Germination
Iowa State University Extension recommends soaking the seeds overnight before planting to soften the seed coat and increase the germination rate. Soaking for four to six hours will do the job. Either cover the seeds in water or wrap them in damp paper towels.
Freeze the Seeds for Better Germination
Another way to increase the chances of germination is to freeze the seeds before planting, according to the Clemson University Extension. Freezing breaks the seed coat and increases potential germination. Place the seeds in the freezer overnight before planting in warm soil.
Temperatures for Germination
Okra sprouts best in warm soil. Plant it in the spring or early summer when the soil temperature has reached at least 70 degrees F and the daytime temperatures are reaching 75 to 90 degrees. Okra seeds do not sprout in soil temperatures below 65 degrees.
Days to Maturity
Viable okra seeds germinate within seven days and then require approximately 48 to 75 days to maturity, depending on the variety. The plants and pods grow very fast and require picking every day or two to prevent the pods from becoming large and fibrous.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月15日
Eggplants are a warm-weather crop that cannot be planted in the garden until your region's last frost date has passed in spring. Eggplants require 100 to 120 days to reach maturity from seed, but choosing a faster-maturing variety and establishing optimal growing conditions can bring fresh, ripe eggplants more quickly from your garden to your table.
Growing From Seed
Because eggplants require a relatively long time to mature and will not thrive in cool weather, if you plan to grow your eggplants from seed, you will need to begin them indoors, about eight to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your region. Seeds need warm soil to germinate and for the seedlings to grow quickly. The ideal soil temperature for germination is between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, so be sure to keep your seedlings in a warm location in your home or use a heating mat to warm the soil.
Growing From Transplants
Move your transplants into the garden only after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm. Eggplants grow optimally during daytime temperatures of 70 to 85 degrees F and can be severely damaged by even a light frost. Cool temperatures can slow growth significantly, so for the best and fastest harvest, keep your transplants indoors until the weather has warmed. If your plants begin to outgrow their containers, it is preferable to repot them in larger containers rather than move them outside too soon.
If purchasing transplants from a garden center, do not purchase your plants until the final frost date has passed. Choose plants with dense, compact growth. Avoid the temptation of speeding up production by purchasing plants that already have blossoms: Blossoms on seedlings may actually slow growth after transplanting and lead to fewer eggplants at harvest.
Varieties and Time to Maturity
Different cultivars of eggplant can show considerable variation in the time it takes them to reach maturity, and if you want an early harvest, use care in selecting a variety. Time until harvest is usually measured from when the eggplant is transplanted into the garden, until the first fruits become ripe. Some seed packets will list the time until harvest by calculating when the seed was planted.
Matures in 50 to 55 days: Easter Egg, Millionaire
Matures in 60 to 64 days:
Calliope, Dusky, Epic, Tango
Matures in 65 to 72 days: Black Bell, Black Magic,
Casper, Fairy Tale, Ichiban, Little Fingers, Nadia, Orient Charm, Slim Jim, Snowy
Matures in 73 to 80 days: Black Beauty, Burpee Hybrid,
Classic, Ghostbuster, Rosa Bianca, Santana
Optimal Growing Conditions
Given warm soil to grow in, eggplants are relatively adaptable to a range of garden conditions, but optimal conditions will improve plant growth and yields.
Sunlight: Eggplants require full sun.
Soil: Eggplants grow best in a well-drained soil that is relatively high in organic matter.
Water: Once established, eggplants can tolerate dry conditions. Eggplants require at least 1 inch of water per week, especially once fruits begin to grow. Absent adequate rainfall, provide a single watering each week, moistening the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Fertilizer: At planting time, apply 1 1/4 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row. Broadcast the fertilizer and work it into the surface of the soil prior to planting your eggplants. When the first fruits are the size of a quarter, use 3 ounces of calcium nitrate fertilizer per 10 feet of row to sidedress your plants, applying fertilizer to the soil surface under the leaves. Sidedress eggplants again two weeks later, using the same amount of calcium nitrate.
Growing Eggplants in Cooler Climates
If you live in a cooler region with a shorter growing season, growing eggplants is more challenging. Covering the soil around your plants with black plastic mulch helps to raise the soil temperature and promotes rapid growth. If a late frost strikes, cover your eggplants with hot caps or row covers to prevent damage. Hot caps are individual plant coverings made of paper or plastic that trap the warmth from the sun and speed up growth in cold climates. Row covers are made of light fabric and can raise the daytime temperature underneath the cover by as much as 10 degrees F, insulate the plants at night and protect plants from frost and wind. Covers are spread across an entire row of plants; secure them in the ground at the sides for maximum effectiveness.
As fall approaches, begin pinching off new blossoms two to four weeks before the first expected frost date. This will speed up the ripening of existing fruit so that you can enjoy one final harvest before the frost.
Growing From Seed
Because eggplants require a relatively long time to mature and will not thrive in cool weather, if you plan to grow your eggplants from seed, you will need to begin them indoors, about eight to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your region. Seeds need warm soil to germinate and for the seedlings to grow quickly. The ideal soil temperature for germination is between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, so be sure to keep your seedlings in a warm location in your home or use a heating mat to warm the soil.
Growing From Transplants
Move your transplants into the garden only after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm. Eggplants grow optimally during daytime temperatures of 70 to 85 degrees F and can be severely damaged by even a light frost. Cool temperatures can slow growth significantly, so for the best and fastest harvest, keep your transplants indoors until the weather has warmed. If your plants begin to outgrow their containers, it is preferable to repot them in larger containers rather than move them outside too soon.
If purchasing transplants from a garden center, do not purchase your plants until the final frost date has passed. Choose plants with dense, compact growth. Avoid the temptation of speeding up production by purchasing plants that already have blossoms: Blossoms on seedlings may actually slow growth after transplanting and lead to fewer eggplants at harvest.
Varieties and Time to Maturity
Different cultivars of eggplant can show considerable variation in the time it takes them to reach maturity, and if you want an early harvest, use care in selecting a variety. Time until harvest is usually measured from when the eggplant is transplanted into the garden, until the first fruits become ripe. Some seed packets will list the time until harvest by calculating when the seed was planted.
Matures in 50 to 55 days: Easter Egg, Millionaire
Matures in 60 to 64 days:
Calliope, Dusky, Epic, Tango
Matures in 65 to 72 days: Black Bell, Black Magic,
Casper, Fairy Tale, Ichiban, Little Fingers, Nadia, Orient Charm, Slim Jim, Snowy
Matures in 73 to 80 days: Black Beauty, Burpee Hybrid,
Classic, Ghostbuster, Rosa Bianca, Santana
Optimal Growing Conditions
Given warm soil to grow in, eggplants are relatively adaptable to a range of garden conditions, but optimal conditions will improve plant growth and yields.
Sunlight: Eggplants require full sun.
Soil: Eggplants grow best in a well-drained soil that is relatively high in organic matter.
Water: Once established, eggplants can tolerate dry conditions. Eggplants require at least 1 inch of water per week, especially once fruits begin to grow. Absent adequate rainfall, provide a single watering each week, moistening the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Fertilizer: At planting time, apply 1 1/4 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row. Broadcast the fertilizer and work it into the surface of the soil prior to planting your eggplants. When the first fruits are the size of a quarter, use 3 ounces of calcium nitrate fertilizer per 10 feet of row to sidedress your plants, applying fertilizer to the soil surface under the leaves. Sidedress eggplants again two weeks later, using the same amount of calcium nitrate.
Growing Eggplants in Cooler Climates
If you live in a cooler region with a shorter growing season, growing eggplants is more challenging. Covering the soil around your plants with black plastic mulch helps to raise the soil temperature and promotes rapid growth. If a late frost strikes, cover your eggplants with hot caps or row covers to prevent damage. Hot caps are individual plant coverings made of paper or plastic that trap the warmth from the sun and speed up growth in cold climates. Row covers are made of light fabric and can raise the daytime temperature underneath the cover by as much as 10 degrees F, insulate the plants at night and protect plants from frost and wind. Covers are spread across an entire row of plants; secure them in the ground at the sides for maximum effectiveness.
As fall approaches, begin pinching off new blossoms two to four weeks before the first expected frost date. This will speed up the ripening of existing fruit so that you can enjoy one final harvest before the frost.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
A normal planting depth of 1 to 3 inches protects seed potato pieces from frost damage even during a hard freeze. Potato leaves survive light frosts with little injury, but leaves and stems die back to the ground in colder temperatures. Seed potatoes send up new shoots to replace frost-killed tops. Protecting plants during the last frosts of spring preserves the advantage gardeners gain from early planting.
Planting Times
Gardeners could plant potatoes as soon as the ground thaws in spring and dries enough to work without compacting. Planting in March, several weeks before the last frost date in most areas, gives potatoes a chance for a longer growing season. The extra days increase yields, since potato tubers stop growing when soil heats to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Late frosts might kill early potato plants back to the ground, but potatoes nearly always recover. Early plantings exposed to long periods of cold rainy weather could fail for other reasons. Cold and wet conditions delay sprouting and cause seed pieces to rot.
Critical Temperatures
Light frosts cause little harm to potato plants, but the difference between a harmless light frost and a heavy frost measures only a few degrees. Temperatures between 29 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit cause light frost, but temperatures from 25 to 28 degrees inflict serious damage to potatoes. In the fall, a hard freeze of 24 degrees or below ends the season, but a brief hard freeze in spring only kills potato plants to ground level. Elevation and ground slope influence the severity of frosts. Potatoes planted on depressed ground sit in frost pockets that collect cold air. Potatoes growing on slopes at higher levels experience warmer temperatures and less frost damage.
Protection
Planting potatoes in mounded rows warms soil faster than flat row systems and it encourages early sprouting. A light mulch of straw over newly emerged potato plants traps ground warmth and protects the tender plants from freezing temperatures. Row covers offer better protection, increasing night temperatures in the potato row by 5 degrees Fahrenheit, according to master gardener Patti O'Neal on the Jeffco Gardener website. Fabric row covers work better than either plastic or paper. Any cover that contacts leaves conducts enough heat to burn leaf tips but will protect other parts of the plant.
Chitting
Forcing potatoes to sprout before planting, or chitting, adds to the growing season without adding risk of frost damage. Potatoes sprout after a month in storage at temperatures of 55 degrees Fahrenheit, if exposed to indirect lighting. Allowing seed potatoes to develop 1/2-inch sprouts before planting guarantees early growth in safely controlled conditions. Cut the sprouting potatoes into pieces at least 1/2 inch thick, with one or more sprouts per piece. Give the cut surfaces a day to harden off and plant just before the last frost date. Plant the pieces flat side down and be careful not to break the sprouts as you cover the row with soil.
Planting Times
Gardeners could plant potatoes as soon as the ground thaws in spring and dries enough to work without compacting. Planting in March, several weeks before the last frost date in most areas, gives potatoes a chance for a longer growing season. The extra days increase yields, since potato tubers stop growing when soil heats to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Late frosts might kill early potato plants back to the ground, but potatoes nearly always recover. Early plantings exposed to long periods of cold rainy weather could fail for other reasons. Cold and wet conditions delay sprouting and cause seed pieces to rot.
Critical Temperatures
Light frosts cause little harm to potato plants, but the difference between a harmless light frost and a heavy frost measures only a few degrees. Temperatures between 29 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit cause light frost, but temperatures from 25 to 28 degrees inflict serious damage to potatoes. In the fall, a hard freeze of 24 degrees or below ends the season, but a brief hard freeze in spring only kills potato plants to ground level. Elevation and ground slope influence the severity of frosts. Potatoes planted on depressed ground sit in frost pockets that collect cold air. Potatoes growing on slopes at higher levels experience warmer temperatures and less frost damage.
Protection
Planting potatoes in mounded rows warms soil faster than flat row systems and it encourages early sprouting. A light mulch of straw over newly emerged potato plants traps ground warmth and protects the tender plants from freezing temperatures. Row covers offer better protection, increasing night temperatures in the potato row by 5 degrees Fahrenheit, according to master gardener Patti O'Neal on the Jeffco Gardener website. Fabric row covers work better than either plastic or paper. Any cover that contacts leaves conducts enough heat to burn leaf tips but will protect other parts of the plant.
Chitting
Forcing potatoes to sprout before planting, or chitting, adds to the growing season without adding risk of frost damage. Potatoes sprout after a month in storage at temperatures of 55 degrees Fahrenheit, if exposed to indirect lighting. Allowing seed potatoes to develop 1/2-inch sprouts before planting guarantees early growth in safely controlled conditions. Cut the sprouting potatoes into pieces at least 1/2 inch thick, with one or more sprouts per piece. Give the cut surfaces a day to harden off and plant just before the last frost date. Plant the pieces flat side down and be careful not to break the sprouts as you cover the row with soil.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月10日
Determining the water needs of a cucumber plant requires more than reading the seed packet. The quality of the soil, local climate and irrigation method used all affect the amount of water necessary to grow productive cucumbers. Irrigation needs change throughout the gardening season. You must remain attentive throughout the gardening season and determine the cucumber's water needs on a weekly basis.
Soil and Moisture
The type and quality of the soil in the garden influences the water needs of the cucumber plants. The optimum garden provides rich, well-drained soil, but cucumbers can grow successfully in less-optimum soils with proper irrigation. Sandy soils drain quickly so they dry out more often. Cucumbers grown in sandy soil usually require additional irrigation. Clay soil retains water and tends to compact, which inhibits water movement around the cucumber roots. Adding compost or peat moss to the bed before planting aids drainage in heavy soils.
Watering Schedule
Cucumbers typically need 1 to 2 inches of water each week. The plants may require no irrigation when rainfall supplies the required amount of moisture. Feeling the soil before irrigating is a more reliable method of supplying sufficient moisture than sticking to a rigid watering schedule. Cucumbers require watering when the top inch of soil is dry, but before the soil dries at a greater depth. Feel the soil two to three times a week when there is no rainfall and water when necessary. An inch of water thoroughly moistens the top 6 inches of the soil.
Mulch and Water Needs
Mulch affects the amount of watering necessary to maintain your cucumber plants. Plastic mulch applied over the bed before you plant retains the most moisture in the soil, so less watering is necessary. Plastic makes it more difficult to check the soil and deliver water. Installing drip irrigation under the mulch ensures the moisture reaches the soil beneath the mulch. An organic mulch, such as straw, also retains moisture so less watering is necessary. It's possible to water plants with a hose or watering can when organic mulch is applied, and you can still feel the soil beneath the mulch to determine the moisture level.
Watering Tips
Watering the cucumbers in the morning ensures the moisture penetrates to the root zone of the plants before the water evaporates during the heat of the day. Plants watered in the morning may require less irrigation than those watered in the afternoon. Supply the water directly to the soil at the base of instead of from overhead. Overhead watering makes the foliage wet and more prone to fungal growth. More moisture is also lost to evaporation when you overhead water, necessitating more frequent irrigation.
Soil and Moisture
The type and quality of the soil in the garden influences the water needs of the cucumber plants. The optimum garden provides rich, well-drained soil, but cucumbers can grow successfully in less-optimum soils with proper irrigation. Sandy soils drain quickly so they dry out more often. Cucumbers grown in sandy soil usually require additional irrigation. Clay soil retains water and tends to compact, which inhibits water movement around the cucumber roots. Adding compost or peat moss to the bed before planting aids drainage in heavy soils.
Watering Schedule
Cucumbers typically need 1 to 2 inches of water each week. The plants may require no irrigation when rainfall supplies the required amount of moisture. Feeling the soil before irrigating is a more reliable method of supplying sufficient moisture than sticking to a rigid watering schedule. Cucumbers require watering when the top inch of soil is dry, but before the soil dries at a greater depth. Feel the soil two to three times a week when there is no rainfall and water when necessary. An inch of water thoroughly moistens the top 6 inches of the soil.
Mulch and Water Needs
Mulch affects the amount of watering necessary to maintain your cucumber plants. Plastic mulch applied over the bed before you plant retains the most moisture in the soil, so less watering is necessary. Plastic makes it more difficult to check the soil and deliver water. Installing drip irrigation under the mulch ensures the moisture reaches the soil beneath the mulch. An organic mulch, such as straw, also retains moisture so less watering is necessary. It's possible to water plants with a hose or watering can when organic mulch is applied, and you can still feel the soil beneath the mulch to determine the moisture level.
Watering Tips
Watering the cucumbers in the morning ensures the moisture penetrates to the root zone of the plants before the water evaporates during the heat of the day. Plants watered in the morning may require less irrigation than those watered in the afternoon. Supply the water directly to the soil at the base of instead of from overhead. Overhead watering makes the foliage wet and more prone to fungal growth. More moisture is also lost to evaporation when you overhead water, necessitating more frequent irrigation.
0
0
Aki
2018年01月12日
Got this Anchan or butterfly pea flower seeds from my nephew, the progress of growing from seed on 10 Jan - 12 Jan
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
There are over 100 species of tulips and many more hybrids. Tulip bulbs flower from early to late spring in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. After blooming cut off the flowers of hybrid tulips; allowing hybrid tulips to go to seed depletes bulb nutrients. Flowers of species tulips are left in place after blooming. Letting species tulips go to seed increases your stock as new bulbs eventually grow from the seeds. Knowing what type of tulips you have helps you decide how to take care of them after blooming.
Step 1
Leave the foliage and stems on the tulip bulbs, of both species and hybrid varieties, after they have bloomed. Leaving the foliage and stems to ripen, turn brown and shrivel up feeds the bulbs for next year's tulip flowers.
Step 2
Plant hybrid tulips 5 inches or more away from perennials such as yarrow, sedum spectabile or day lilies. As these plants leaf out they will grow up, arching over the unsightly, dying tulip foliage, hiding it from view. Species tulips are smaller, lower growing plants, requiring hot sunshine to fully ripen their bulbs. Grow them near edelweiss, alpine gentians and other low growing perennials that won't cover them up, so the bulbs can get the baking they need.
Step 3
Cut off dead tulip foliage and stems after they have turned completely brown, tossing it onto the compost pile.
Step 1
Leave the foliage and stems on the tulip bulbs, of both species and hybrid varieties, after they have bloomed. Leaving the foliage and stems to ripen, turn brown and shrivel up feeds the bulbs for next year's tulip flowers.
Step 2
Plant hybrid tulips 5 inches or more away from perennials such as yarrow, sedum spectabile or day lilies. As these plants leaf out they will grow up, arching over the unsightly, dying tulip foliage, hiding it from view. Species tulips are smaller, lower growing plants, requiring hot sunshine to fully ripen their bulbs. Grow them near edelweiss, alpine gentians and other low growing perennials that won't cover them up, so the bulbs can get the baking they need.
Step 3
Cut off dead tulip foliage and stems after they have turned completely brown, tossing it onto the compost pile.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Perennial gardeners who master bulb division and growing lilies from seed may want to try another form of vegetative propagation, stem cuttings. Although this method of propagation is more difficult for herbaceous perennials such as true lilies that grow from bulbs than it is for woody perennials, stem cuttings guarantee an identical clone of the parent plants. Some types of lilies lend themselves more readily to the technique.
How Lilies Reproduce
Lilies grow from scaled bulbs that carry the genetic code of the plant and the embryo and food and moisture to keep it safe until conditions allow it to grow again. Bulbs multiply rapidly. Some varieties produce additional bloom-ready bulbs every year. Some bulbs grow little bulblets around the base, or growth plate, of the parent bulbs and the section of the stem between the bulb and soil line. Some lilies, notably the North American native tiger lily, grow tiny bulbils at the junction of the leaf and stem. Each scale of the lily's bulb, every bulblet and bulbil carry the exact chromosomal combination of the parent. Seeds, produced in pods formed on flower stems, carry the combined genetic code for a new plant -- a hybrid -- with the combined chromosomal structure of the seed-bearing parent and whatever lily provided pollen. Success with stem cuttings relies on how the cultivar self-reproduces and how the stem cutting is planted.
Timing
Lily stems begin dying back quickly after flowers fade, so cuttings must be taken soon after the last flowers drop. Cuttings must be planted immediately in sharp sand or a starting mix and kept moist. When a shoot emerges, a bulbil has formed in the axil where the leaf meets the stem. This tiny bulb, planted in a nursery plot in spring, should grow large enough to move to the garden within a year or two. If the stem cutting successfully creates a bulbil, it may grow large enough to produce flowers within two to four seasons, depending on the lily cultivar.
Method
Section green, live sections of the stem, keeping at least one leaf on each section. Dust the section with a fungicide or rooting hormone, available at garden centers, and plant sections in a flat of sharp sand or soilless starter mix so that the leaves stand up above each section. Be sure to bury the axil of each leaf. That is where the bulbil will form.
Choosing Lilies for Cuttings
Many species of lilies, such as tiger lilies, readily form bulbils in leaf axils; hybrid Asiatics form bulblets on stems underground and leaves torn off with a section of stem. Lilies will not grow directly from stem cuttings; they must first form bulbils, so be patient. Only the lilies that grow bulbils -- or those hybrids whose ancestors grew bulbils -- will respond to this method of vegetative reproduction. The rest provide plenty of bulblets for the picking and planting on their mother bulbs' growth plates or along the underground sections of their stems.
How Lilies Reproduce
Lilies grow from scaled bulbs that carry the genetic code of the plant and the embryo and food and moisture to keep it safe until conditions allow it to grow again. Bulbs multiply rapidly. Some varieties produce additional bloom-ready bulbs every year. Some bulbs grow little bulblets around the base, or growth plate, of the parent bulbs and the section of the stem between the bulb and soil line. Some lilies, notably the North American native tiger lily, grow tiny bulbils at the junction of the leaf and stem. Each scale of the lily's bulb, every bulblet and bulbil carry the exact chromosomal combination of the parent. Seeds, produced in pods formed on flower stems, carry the combined genetic code for a new plant -- a hybrid -- with the combined chromosomal structure of the seed-bearing parent and whatever lily provided pollen. Success with stem cuttings relies on how the cultivar self-reproduces and how the stem cutting is planted.
Timing
Lily stems begin dying back quickly after flowers fade, so cuttings must be taken soon after the last flowers drop. Cuttings must be planted immediately in sharp sand or a starting mix and kept moist. When a shoot emerges, a bulbil has formed in the axil where the leaf meets the stem. This tiny bulb, planted in a nursery plot in spring, should grow large enough to move to the garden within a year or two. If the stem cutting successfully creates a bulbil, it may grow large enough to produce flowers within two to four seasons, depending on the lily cultivar.
Method
Section green, live sections of the stem, keeping at least one leaf on each section. Dust the section with a fungicide or rooting hormone, available at garden centers, and plant sections in a flat of sharp sand or soilless starter mix so that the leaves stand up above each section. Be sure to bury the axil of each leaf. That is where the bulbil will form.
Choosing Lilies for Cuttings
Many species of lilies, such as tiger lilies, readily form bulbils in leaf axils; hybrid Asiatics form bulblets on stems underground and leaves torn off with a section of stem. Lilies will not grow directly from stem cuttings; they must first form bulbils, so be patient. Only the lilies that grow bulbils -- or those hybrids whose ancestors grew bulbils -- will respond to this method of vegetative reproduction. The rest provide plenty of bulblets for the picking and planting on their mother bulbs' growth plates or along the underground sections of their stems.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月15日
You can save and sow seeds from your favorite garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa), perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, but most are hybrid cultivars that won't come true from seed. On the other hand, purchased or saved seeds for wild strawberries (Fragaria spp., USDA zones 4 through 10), or open-pollinated garden types such as "Fresca" (USDA zones 3 through 8) will come true. Sellers also offer seeds of hybrid decorative garden varieties, including "Tarpan" (USDA zones 5 through 8), which are grown for their unusual pink flowers as well as their berries.
Harvest Seeds
To harvest strawberry seeds from their fruits, place four or five berries and 1 quart of water in the pitcher of a blender. After covering the blender, run it on its lowest setting for 10 seconds. Discard any seeds that float to the surface, as they won't be viable, and pour the mixture of water and strawberry pulp through a strainer that has mesh that's fine enough to retain the seeds. Hold the strainer over a sink or place a container beneath it to catch the watery pulp. When the seeds are completely drained, spread them on paper towels and allow them to dry thoroughly.
Stratify Seeds
Store saved or purchased strawberry seeds in a paper envelope inside a covered glass jar or zip-lock plastic bag in the refrigerator until one month before you intend to plant them. If you want to harvest strawberries the same year that you plant their seeds, you must sow the seeds indoors no later than the beginning of February. One month earlier than the planting date you choose, place the jar or bag containing the seeds in the freezer. After the month has passed, retrieve the container from the freezer, and leave it at room temperature overnight before you open it to plant the seeds.
Plant Seeds
Make sure the flowerpot or other container you use for sowing the seeds has drainage holes. After filling it to within 1/2 inch of its rim with damp, sterile seed-starting mix, sow the seeds about 1 inch apart over the surface of the mix. Press them into the surface and leave them uncovered, as they require light for germination. After topping the container with plastic wrap, place it under a grow light set to run for 12 to 14 hours per day or on a sunny -- preferably south-facing -- windowsill. If you keep the container at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds should germinate within one to six weeks.
Grow Seedlings
For the first month, feed the plants once every two weeks with a fertilizer recommended for seedlings, such as liquid kelp (0-0-1). Use only half the amount specified, which for the kelp would be 1 tablespoon of the concentrate per gallon of water. After one month, you can raise that to the full amount of 2 tablespoons per gallon every two weeks. About six weeks after the seedlings germinate, transplant them into individual 4-inch pots of potting soil. They should be ready to go outdoors after another six weeks. Place the pots in the shade at first, accustoming the plants gradually to more and more sun before you transplant them into the garden, setting them 2 feet apart in well-drained, slightly acidic soil in full sun. Work 1/4 cup of an all-purpose organic fertilizer such as 5-5-5 into the planting hole for each seedling, water them well and mulch them with straw. To stay healthy, the strawberry plants will need at least 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation.
Harvest Seeds
To harvest strawberry seeds from their fruits, place four or five berries and 1 quart of water in the pitcher of a blender. After covering the blender, run it on its lowest setting for 10 seconds. Discard any seeds that float to the surface, as they won't be viable, and pour the mixture of water and strawberry pulp through a strainer that has mesh that's fine enough to retain the seeds. Hold the strainer over a sink or place a container beneath it to catch the watery pulp. When the seeds are completely drained, spread them on paper towels and allow them to dry thoroughly.
Stratify Seeds
Store saved or purchased strawberry seeds in a paper envelope inside a covered glass jar or zip-lock plastic bag in the refrigerator until one month before you intend to plant them. If you want to harvest strawberries the same year that you plant their seeds, you must sow the seeds indoors no later than the beginning of February. One month earlier than the planting date you choose, place the jar or bag containing the seeds in the freezer. After the month has passed, retrieve the container from the freezer, and leave it at room temperature overnight before you open it to plant the seeds.
Plant Seeds
Make sure the flowerpot or other container you use for sowing the seeds has drainage holes. After filling it to within 1/2 inch of its rim with damp, sterile seed-starting mix, sow the seeds about 1 inch apart over the surface of the mix. Press them into the surface and leave them uncovered, as they require light for germination. After topping the container with plastic wrap, place it under a grow light set to run for 12 to 14 hours per day or on a sunny -- preferably south-facing -- windowsill. If you keep the container at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds should germinate within one to six weeks.
Grow Seedlings
For the first month, feed the plants once every two weeks with a fertilizer recommended for seedlings, such as liquid kelp (0-0-1). Use only half the amount specified, which for the kelp would be 1 tablespoon of the concentrate per gallon of water. After one month, you can raise that to the full amount of 2 tablespoons per gallon every two weeks. About six weeks after the seedlings germinate, transplant them into individual 4-inch pots of potting soil. They should be ready to go outdoors after another six weeks. Place the pots in the shade at first, accustoming the plants gradually to more and more sun before you transplant them into the garden, setting them 2 feet apart in well-drained, slightly acidic soil in full sun. Work 1/4 cup of an all-purpose organic fertilizer such as 5-5-5 into the planting hole for each seedling, water them well and mulch them with straw. To stay healthy, the strawberry plants will need at least 1 inch of water per week from rainfall or irrigation.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Epsom salt is made of magnesium and sulfur. Magnesium promotes seed germination and chlorophyll production, and it also facilitates the plants' absorption of phosphorous and nitrogen. Besides, Epsom salt offers an advantage over synthetic fertilizers: Despite its name, it's not a salt, and it doesn't leave residue behind in the soil that creates a salt buildup or harm plants. Feed your tomatoes Epsom salt once every two weeks for a plant larger and more fruitful than last season.
Step 1
Measure your tomato plant to calculate how many tablespoons of Epsom salt you'll need. Use 1 tbsp. for every foot of plant. A 6-inch-tall tomato plant, for example, takes ½ tbsp. of Epsom salt.
Step 2
Sprinkle the correct amount of Epsom salt around the base of your tomato plant.
Step 3
Mix the Epsom salt crystals with the soil, working them into the ground carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Use your fingers or a trowel.
Step 4
Irrigate your tomato plant to dissolve the crystals, releasing the nutrients into the soil.
Step 1
Measure your tomato plant to calculate how many tablespoons of Epsom salt you'll need. Use 1 tbsp. for every foot of plant. A 6-inch-tall tomato plant, for example, takes ½ tbsp. of Epsom salt.
Step 2
Sprinkle the correct amount of Epsom salt around the base of your tomato plant.
Step 3
Mix the Epsom salt crystals with the soil, working them into the ground carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Use your fingers or a trowel.
Step 4
Irrigate your tomato plant to dissolve the crystals, releasing the nutrients into the soil.
2
1
