文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Many people don’t realize that a mustard seed plant is the same plant as a mustard greens plant (Brassica juncea). This versatile plant can be grown as a vegetable and eaten like other greens or, if allowed to flower and go to seed, mustard seeds can be harvested and used as a spice in cooking or ground into a popular condiment. Learning how to grow mustard seeds is easy and rewarding.
How to Plant Mustard Seed
Mustard seed plants are normally grown from seed but can be grown from purchased seedlings as well. When selecting mustard seeds for planting, any mustard plant grown for greens can also be grown for mustard seed.
Plant the mustard seed about three weeks before your last frost date. Since you’ll be harvesting the mustard seed, there’s no need to use succession planting like you do with mustard greens. Plant your mustard seeds about an inch apart. Once they sprout, thin the seedlings so that they are 6 inches apart. Mustard plants grown for seed are planted further apart than plants grown for just leaves as the mustard plant will be getting much larger before it flowers. If you are planting purchased mustard seedlings, plant these 6 inches apart as well.
How to Grow Mustard Seeds
Once mustard seed plants start growing, they need little care. They enjoy cool weather and will bolt (flower) quickly in warmer weather. While this may seem like a great thing if you are looking to grow mustard seeds, it is not. Mustard plants that bolt due to warm weather will produce poor flowers and seeds. It’s best to keep them on their normal flowering cycle to be able to harvest the best mustard seeds. Mustard seed plants need 2 inches of water a week. Normally, during cool weather, you should get enough rainfall to supply this, but if you don’t, you’ll need to do additional watering. Mustard seed plants don’t need fertilizer if they have been planted in well amended garden soil, but if you’re unsure if your soil is nutrient rich, you can add a balanced fertilizer to the roots once the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall.
How to Harvest Mustard Seeds
The mustard plants will eventually flower and go to seed. The flowers of mustard seed plant are generally yellow but some varieties have white flowers. As the mustard flower grows and matures, it will form pods. Watch for these pods to start to turn brown. Another sign that you are nearing harvest time will be that the leaves of the plant will start to yellow. Be careful not to leave the pods on the mustard seed plant for too long as they will burst open when fully ripe and the mustard seed harvest will be lost. The next step in harvesting mustard seeds is to remove the seeds from the pods. You can do this with your hands, or you can place the flower heads in a paper bag and allow them to finish maturing. The pods will open on their own in one to two weeks and a gentle shake of the bag will shake loose most of the mustard seeds. Mustard seeds can be used fresh, but like other herbs and spices, if you plant on storing them long term, they will need to be dried.
How to Plant Mustard Seed
Mustard seed plants are normally grown from seed but can be grown from purchased seedlings as well. When selecting mustard seeds for planting, any mustard plant grown for greens can also be grown for mustard seed.
Plant the mustard seed about three weeks before your last frost date. Since you’ll be harvesting the mustard seed, there’s no need to use succession planting like you do with mustard greens. Plant your mustard seeds about an inch apart. Once they sprout, thin the seedlings so that they are 6 inches apart. Mustard plants grown for seed are planted further apart than plants grown for just leaves as the mustard plant will be getting much larger before it flowers. If you are planting purchased mustard seedlings, plant these 6 inches apart as well.
How to Grow Mustard Seeds
Once mustard seed plants start growing, they need little care. They enjoy cool weather and will bolt (flower) quickly in warmer weather. While this may seem like a great thing if you are looking to grow mustard seeds, it is not. Mustard plants that bolt due to warm weather will produce poor flowers and seeds. It’s best to keep them on their normal flowering cycle to be able to harvest the best mustard seeds. Mustard seed plants need 2 inches of water a week. Normally, during cool weather, you should get enough rainfall to supply this, but if you don’t, you’ll need to do additional watering. Mustard seed plants don’t need fertilizer if they have been planted in well amended garden soil, but if you’re unsure if your soil is nutrient rich, you can add a balanced fertilizer to the roots once the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall.
How to Harvest Mustard Seeds
The mustard plants will eventually flower and go to seed. The flowers of mustard seed plant are generally yellow but some varieties have white flowers. As the mustard flower grows and matures, it will form pods. Watch for these pods to start to turn brown. Another sign that you are nearing harvest time will be that the leaves of the plant will start to yellow. Be careful not to leave the pods on the mustard seed plant for too long as they will burst open when fully ripe and the mustard seed harvest will be lost. The next step in harvesting mustard seeds is to remove the seeds from the pods. You can do this with your hands, or you can place the flower heads in a paper bag and allow them to finish maturing. The pods will open on their own in one to two weeks and a gentle shake of the bag will shake loose most of the mustard seeds. Mustard seeds can be used fresh, but like other herbs and spices, if you plant on storing them long term, they will need to be dried.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there’s no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Chances are pretty good that if you have ever grown cilantro you ended up with coriander seeds at some point. Coriander is the fruit or seed from the cilantro plant, which is also sometimes called the coriander plant. Letting cilantro plants bolt is how to grow coriander. The bolted plants send out flowers and seed in high heat. Growing coriander is easy and rewards you with a seasoning that adds exotic interest to your dishes.
What are Coriander Seeds?
Coriander is a seasoning. It is a hard, round little seed that is a light brown color. Coriander seeds are ground and used in breads, Indian and Middle Eastern foods, Latin and Asian cuisine and is also a component of pickling spices. Cilantro seed answers the question, “What is Coriander?” The coriander plant goes to seed if it is planted when summer is in full swing. If you want cilantro for the citrusy leaves, you need to plant it when temperatures are still cool in spring.
How to Grow Coriander
Plant seeds in late spring to early summer. The plant needs rich, well-drained soil and a moderate amount of water. Sow in a full sun location for best production in loam or sandy soil. Space the seeds 8 to 10 inches apart in rows 15 inches apart. By midsummer, the coriander flowers will appear as white lacy umbels. In a couple of weeks the plant will set seed. Neglect is actually the best method of how to grow coriander. The formation of coriander seeds is dependent upon day length, sunlight and temperatures. Cilantro has a short growing season in hot climates and bolts when it is finished growing. Plants grown in mid summer will bolt in only four to six weeks due to the high temperatures. The varieties of cilantro seed that do not say they are slow to bolt will produce the quickest coriander crop. Slow to bolt means the plants will not form seed quickly and are more suitable for the cilantro leaves.
How to Harvest Coriander from Cilantro Plants
Coriander seeds need to be harvested before they drop off the plant. The pretty little flowers are attractive to honeybees and butterflies and turn into the seeds after pollination. The seeds are tiny and will be loose on the stem when ripe. Place a bag under the old flower stem and cut it off. Shake the stem into the bag and the ripe seeds will fall in. The seeds are best used as soon as possible but can be stored in a tightly sealed container.
How to Use Coriander Seed
Coriander needs to be ground in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle for use in cooking. You can also toast the seeds to bring out the flavor or wrap them with other seasonings in cheese cloth as a bouquet garni. The ground seed is most often found in curry powders such as Taklia, which is an Arab condiment, and garam masala. It is used in soups, stews, baked goods, desserts and as a rub on meats.
What are Coriander Seeds?
Coriander is a seasoning. It is a hard, round little seed that is a light brown color. Coriander seeds are ground and used in breads, Indian and Middle Eastern foods, Latin and Asian cuisine and is also a component of pickling spices. Cilantro seed answers the question, “What is Coriander?” The coriander plant goes to seed if it is planted when summer is in full swing. If you want cilantro for the citrusy leaves, you need to plant it when temperatures are still cool in spring.
How to Grow Coriander
Plant seeds in late spring to early summer. The plant needs rich, well-drained soil and a moderate amount of water. Sow in a full sun location for best production in loam or sandy soil. Space the seeds 8 to 10 inches apart in rows 15 inches apart. By midsummer, the coriander flowers will appear as white lacy umbels. In a couple of weeks the plant will set seed. Neglect is actually the best method of how to grow coriander. The formation of coriander seeds is dependent upon day length, sunlight and temperatures. Cilantro has a short growing season in hot climates and bolts when it is finished growing. Plants grown in mid summer will bolt in only four to six weeks due to the high temperatures. The varieties of cilantro seed that do not say they are slow to bolt will produce the quickest coriander crop. Slow to bolt means the plants will not form seed quickly and are more suitable for the cilantro leaves.
How to Harvest Coriander from Cilantro Plants
Coriander seeds need to be harvested before they drop off the plant. The pretty little flowers are attractive to honeybees and butterflies and turn into the seeds after pollination. The seeds are tiny and will be loose on the stem when ripe. Place a bag under the old flower stem and cut it off. Shake the stem into the bag and the ripe seeds will fall in. The seeds are best used as soon as possible but can be stored in a tightly sealed container.
How to Use Coriander Seed
Coriander needs to be ground in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle for use in cooking. You can also toast the seeds to bring out the flavor or wrap them with other seasonings in cheese cloth as a bouquet garni. The ground seed is most often found in curry powders such as Taklia, which is an Arab condiment, and garam masala. It is used in soups, stews, baked goods, desserts and as a rub on meats.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Caraway is a flavorful and aromatic herb. The caraway seed is the most used part of the plant and can be used in baking, soups, stews and other foods but all parts of the plant are edible. Growing caraway seeds requires some patience, as the caraway plant is a biennial and doesn’t do more than grow vegetatively in the first season. The caraway plant resembles a carrot and sets seed in its second year.
Learn About the Caraway Plant
The caraway plant (Carum carvi) is an herbaceous biennial that will mature to 30 inches tall. The plant is only about 8 inches tall in the first season with carrot-like foliage and a long taproot. By the second year, the plant will triple in size and the foliage becomes more feathery with stout stems. Tiny white flowers appear on the umbrels, which begin in May and last until the end of summer. The spent flowers yield small hard brown seeds– the caraway spice that is an important part of many regional cuisines.
How to Grow Caraway
Caraway spice is an under-used and infrequently grown plant in most herb gardens. It is native to Europe and Western Asia where it thrives in full sun and well drained soil with pH ranges of 6.5 to 7.0. It isn’t a good plant for hot, humid climates and prefers cool temperate zones. Sow the seeds 1/2-inch deep in fall or spring. Once seed germinates, thin the caraway plant to 8 to 12 inches apart. In colder climates, mulch the roots of the plant heavily with straw or organic mulch, which will add nutrients to the soil. Germination is slow and sporadic when growing caraway seeds, and the herb may be intercropped to help prevent weeds and manage soil conditions. Very little cultivation is required in caraway growing, but adequate moisture is an important component in the first year. The foliage of caraway plants need to be kept dry during irrigation, so a drip hose is an excellent way to keep the soil moisture level up. Cut the plant back in the fall as it will die back and re-sprout in spring. Caraway has few pests or disease problems. Plant a second crop a year after the first for consistent production.
Harvesting Caraway
Caraway growing provides you with a fresh source of spice that is adaptable and stores well. All parts of the caraway plant are edible. Harvest the leaves in the first or second years to add flavor to salads. When the plant has produced seed, dig up the taproot and use it as you would any root vegetable. The seeds are harvested when they turn a rich deep brown color. Cut the umbels off the plant and put them in a paper bag. Let them dry in an open bag for a few days and then shake the bag to remove the caraway spice. Herb gardens are more complete when you grow caraway and add the characteristic flavor to your spice rack.
Learn About the Caraway Plant
The caraway plant (Carum carvi) is an herbaceous biennial that will mature to 30 inches tall. The plant is only about 8 inches tall in the first season with carrot-like foliage and a long taproot. By the second year, the plant will triple in size and the foliage becomes more feathery with stout stems. Tiny white flowers appear on the umbrels, which begin in May and last until the end of summer. The spent flowers yield small hard brown seeds– the caraway spice that is an important part of many regional cuisines.
How to Grow Caraway
Caraway spice is an under-used and infrequently grown plant in most herb gardens. It is native to Europe and Western Asia where it thrives in full sun and well drained soil with pH ranges of 6.5 to 7.0. It isn’t a good plant for hot, humid climates and prefers cool temperate zones. Sow the seeds 1/2-inch deep in fall or spring. Once seed germinates, thin the caraway plant to 8 to 12 inches apart. In colder climates, mulch the roots of the plant heavily with straw or organic mulch, which will add nutrients to the soil. Germination is slow and sporadic when growing caraway seeds, and the herb may be intercropped to help prevent weeds and manage soil conditions. Very little cultivation is required in caraway growing, but adequate moisture is an important component in the first year. The foliage of caraway plants need to be kept dry during irrigation, so a drip hose is an excellent way to keep the soil moisture level up. Cut the plant back in the fall as it will die back and re-sprout in spring. Caraway has few pests or disease problems. Plant a second crop a year after the first for consistent production.
Harvesting Caraway
Caraway growing provides you with a fresh source of spice that is adaptable and stores well. All parts of the caraway plant are edible. Harvest the leaves in the first or second years to add flavor to salads. When the plant has produced seed, dig up the taproot and use it as you would any root vegetable. The seeds are harvested when they turn a rich deep brown color. Cut the umbels off the plant and put them in a paper bag. Let them dry in an open bag for a few days and then shake the bag to remove the caraway spice. Herb gardens are more complete when you grow caraway and add the characteristic flavor to your spice rack.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Burdock is a native of Eurasia but has quickly become naturalized in North America. The plant is an herbaceous biennial with a long history of edible and medicinal use by native people. For gardeners who wish to try growing burdock plants, seed is available from numerous sources and the plant is adaptable to any light level and most soils. This is an easy plant to grow either as an herbal medicine or as an interesting vegetable. As a part of your medicinal or edible garden, very little burdock plant care is necessary once established.
About Burdock Plants
Burdock occurs in undisturbed sites where the plant forms a rosette the first year and a flowering spike the second. Both the roots and young leaves and shoots are edible. The plant is easy to grow and can produce roots up to 2 feet long in 100 days or less. Gardeners who want to know how to grow burdock should know that it is easier to harvest roots if planted in sandy, loose soil.
Burdock may reach 2 to 9 feet in height and produces rough, sticky burred fruits. From these fruits comes its scientific name, Articum lappa. In Greek, ‘arktos’ means bear and ‘lappos’ means seize. This refers to the fruits or seed capsules which are barbed with spurs that grab onto animal fur and clothing. In fact, from these fruit, it is said the idea from Velcro was developed. The flowers are bright pinkish-purple and similar to many thistle species. The leaves are broad and lightly lobed. The plant will self-seed readily and can become a nuisance if not managed. This should pose no problem if you are continually deadheading the plant or if you intend to use it as a root vegetable. Another way to contain the plant is by growing burdock in pots.
Burdock Plant Uses
Among the many burdock plant uses is in the treatment of scalp and skin problems. It is also known to be a liver treatment and stimulates the digestive system. It is a detoxifying herb and diuretic and has also been used as an antidote in some cases of poisoning. In China, the seeds are used to treat colds and cough. Medical uses of burdock stem from the plant’s use in tinctures and decoctions resulting in salves, lotions and other topical applications. It is also a popular food plant, known as gobo, in Asian cooking. Roots are eaten either raw or cooked, and leaves and stems are used like spinach. Indigenous Americans were growing burdock plants in their own vegetable gardens before the country was settled by Europeans.
How to Grow Burdock
Burdock prefers loamy soil and a neutral pH in areas with average water. Seeds should be stratified and germinate at 80 to 90 % when sown directly in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/8 inch under the soil and keep evenly moist. Germination takes place in 1-2 weeks. Once seed has germinated, young plants grow quickly but it takes some time to establish a taproot of sufficient size to harvest. Plants should be spaced at least 18 inches apart. For the most part, burdock has no significant pest or disease issues. Continued burdock plant care is minimal but steps may have to be taken to manage the spread of the plant. Harvest leaves when young and tender and wait a year before taking the root.
About Burdock Plants
Burdock occurs in undisturbed sites where the plant forms a rosette the first year and a flowering spike the second. Both the roots and young leaves and shoots are edible. The plant is easy to grow and can produce roots up to 2 feet long in 100 days or less. Gardeners who want to know how to grow burdock should know that it is easier to harvest roots if planted in sandy, loose soil.
Burdock may reach 2 to 9 feet in height and produces rough, sticky burred fruits. From these fruits comes its scientific name, Articum lappa. In Greek, ‘arktos’ means bear and ‘lappos’ means seize. This refers to the fruits or seed capsules which are barbed with spurs that grab onto animal fur and clothing. In fact, from these fruit, it is said the idea from Velcro was developed. The flowers are bright pinkish-purple and similar to many thistle species. The leaves are broad and lightly lobed. The plant will self-seed readily and can become a nuisance if not managed. This should pose no problem if you are continually deadheading the plant or if you intend to use it as a root vegetable. Another way to contain the plant is by growing burdock in pots.
Burdock Plant Uses
Among the many burdock plant uses is in the treatment of scalp and skin problems. It is also known to be a liver treatment and stimulates the digestive system. It is a detoxifying herb and diuretic and has also been used as an antidote in some cases of poisoning. In China, the seeds are used to treat colds and cough. Medical uses of burdock stem from the plant’s use in tinctures and decoctions resulting in salves, lotions and other topical applications. It is also a popular food plant, known as gobo, in Asian cooking. Roots are eaten either raw or cooked, and leaves and stems are used like spinach. Indigenous Americans were growing burdock plants in their own vegetable gardens before the country was settled by Europeans.
How to Grow Burdock
Burdock prefers loamy soil and a neutral pH in areas with average water. Seeds should be stratified and germinate at 80 to 90 % when sown directly in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/8 inch under the soil and keep evenly moist. Germination takes place in 1-2 weeks. Once seed has germinated, young plants grow quickly but it takes some time to establish a taproot of sufficient size to harvest. Plants should be spaced at least 18 inches apart. For the most part, burdock has no significant pest or disease issues. Continued burdock plant care is minimal but steps may have to be taken to manage the spread of the plant. Harvest leaves when young and tender and wait a year before taking the root.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Sage, rosemary and thyme are perennial staples of most herb gardens, but don’t forget the annuals. A hardy annual, suited to all USDA hardiness zones, is borage. This self-seeding herb is easy to grow and if allowed to bloom and set seed will provide year upon year of edible blue blossoms as well as foliage. The question is, when and how to harvest borage?
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plant is a fascinating carnivorous plant that has ornamental appeal while entertaining and educating on a unique method of feeding. Propagating pitcher plants can be done by tissue culture, seed or stem cuttings. Rooting cuttings is the more common method for a home gardener. Pitcher plant cuttings must be taken at the right time of the year and from a mature plant. Collectors know how to propagate a pitcher plant so we’ll take some tips from them and explore the world of pitcher plant growing.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant
The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two.
Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water
Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss
Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
How to Propagate a Pitcher Plant
The pitcher plant has a silhouette that most gardeners can recognize. The plants produce male and female flowers on separate plants. The two sexes appear identical and make it nearly impossible to ensure that you have one of each. Additionally, the plants need to be flowering at the same time in order for the male’s pollen to transfer to the female bloom. This is as likely as my winning the lottery in any environment but nature. Rooting cuttings is a far easier and surer way to propagate pitcher plants. There are two methods that should do the trick and produce new pitcher plants in a month or two.
Plants in nature produce offspring through seed. Baby plants take a long time to develop and fertilization is capricious in nature. A gardener who wants to undertake propagation through seed will need patience and a lot of luck. Tissue cultured plants are best left to those professionals in the nursery industry or someone with a botany degree. Cuttings, however, grow quickly and are easy for even a novice gardener to undertake. Cuttings from mature plants with actively growing stems work best. When the plant begins to produce vining stems, harvest a climbing stalk that has a basal rosette. Use a clean, sharp razor and take the stem just below a lower leaf with a growth bud. Count 3 nodes and make your cut.
Growing Pitcher Plants from Cuttings in Water
Once you have your cutting, it is time to root the material. Pitcher plant cuttings can be rooted in water or in a soilless medium. Use rain or distilled water and immerse the end of the cutting and the first growth node in the liquid. Place the glass in a bright area where temperatures are moderately warm. Change the water at least once per week. The stem should split in less than two weeks and begin to produce tiny rootlets. If the cutting is a piece of the tip of the stem, the end growth should continue growing. When the cutting has 6 rootlets, plant it in sphagnum moss. Keep the cutting moderately moist. In six months or more, the plant will develop a classic pitcher form. Propagating pitcher plants in this way is quite easy, but you have to watch the cutting for any signs of fungus or rot.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings in Moss
Harvesting a cutting that will grow in moss is the same as that for a water grown plant. Professionals use rooting hormone on the end of the cutting and often a fungicide. If you have a sterile medium, the fungicide is not necessary but the rooting hormone helps enhance the plant’s ability to send out rootlets. Sphagnum moss or a 50/50 mixture of coir and perlite create ideal conditions when growing pitcher plants from cuttings. Remove the bottom leaf and settle the stem into the medium with the remaining two leaves above the surface. Make sure the cutting has one growth bud below the surface of the medium. Lightly moisten the medium and place the container in a plastic bag. Keep the container in a brightly lit area. It can take six months to a year to see new growth while rooting takes place. Do not disturb or repot the plant until new growth is observed. It’s a tedious wait, but the benefits will be clear when your new pitcher plant begins to produce its characteristic hood.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
If you have one pitcher plant and you’d like more, you may be thinking of growing pitcher plants from seed taken from its spent blooms. Pitcher plant seed sowing is one of the best ways to reproduce the beautiful plant. But like the seeds of other carnivorous plants, they need special treatment to give them their best chance at growing. Read on for information about how to grow pitcher plants from seed.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, commonly called moss rose, grows as a colorful, spreading ground cover in beds, borders and containers. This annual flower grows readily from seed broadcast directly in the garden bed, or you can plant it from transplants in spring after frost danger has passed. Moss rose is related to the invasive annual weed purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Although the cultivated version doesn't spread as readily, it can also become invasive in some areas.
The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted.
A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil.
Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol.
Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted.
A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil.
Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol.
Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Portulaca grandiflora, also called moss rose, tends to self-seed, but harvesting seeds from this annual plant helps keep it where you want it. Moss rose quickly spreads in full-sun, dry areas when seed capsules are left on the plant. Growing 4 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 24 inches wide, moss rose varieties include the early-flowering Margarita series, "Sundial," which produces early, double flowers in sunset colors, and "Calypso," which features white, yellow, orange, pink or purple double flowers.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
Moss Rose Varieties
Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it.
Harvesting Seed
Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag.
Separating Seed
Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind.
Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container.
Storing Seed
A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Portulaca is a large-flowered variety of purslane. It adds annual color to the flower garden, blooming from early summer until the first fall frost. Flowering may decline at midseason if portulaca isn't regularly deadheaded. Seed production uses up energy in the plant, so that there are no resources available for flowering. Removing the old flowers before they have a chance to form seeds, called deadheading, encourages the portulaca to continue producing its colorful and showy blossoms.
Step 1
Inspect portulaca plants in the morning for spent blooms. Flowers close in late afternoon and overnight, so flowers may appear spent at these times when they are not. All active flowers are open in the morning.
Step 2
Pinch off the withered blossoms. Remove the blossoms and the top ¼ inch of stem, so that the entire seed producing structure is removed from the plant.
Step 3
Cut out any dead or damaged stems or leaves completely. Remove these at the base of the plant.
Step 4
Dispose of or compost the removed flowers and leaves. Old plant matter left in the bed may provide bedding for insects or disease organisms.
Step 1
Inspect portulaca plants in the morning for spent blooms. Flowers close in late afternoon and overnight, so flowers may appear spent at these times when they are not. All active flowers are open in the morning.
Step 2
Pinch off the withered blossoms. Remove the blossoms and the top ¼ inch of stem, so that the entire seed producing structure is removed from the plant.
Step 3
Cut out any dead or damaged stems or leaves completely. Remove these at the base of the plant.
Step 4
Dispose of or compost the removed flowers and leaves. Old plant matter left in the bed may provide bedding for insects or disease organisms.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Annual bread-seed or lettuce-leaf poppies (Papaver somniferum) produce flat, tissue-papery blooms in shades of pink, red, purple and white. They grow 4 to 5 feet tall, with lush, pale green foliage that stands upright from the stalk. These are the same poppies that are the source of opium and it is illegal in the United States to grow them for that purpose.
Colors
While specific strains, such as Lauren's Grape (purple), Danish Flag (deep orange with white feathery centers) and peony poppies (multiple petals in jewel tones) are offered in commercial seed packages, grocery-store poppy seeds grow just as well, although in limited colors and types. Most produce a single pink poppy flower.
Timing
Annual poppies grow best if they get a period of cold, so it is often recommended that they be planted in fall or sprinkled on the snow. However, especially in areas with wet winters and cold springs, planting in mid-February yields better results.
Planting
Scatter the seeds on the ground and do not cover them, as sunlight is needed for germination. If your climate is dry, keep the seeds moist with a fine spray from the hose until they come up. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, thin out any crowded clumps.
Gathering Seeds
Poppy flowers last only a few days. After the petals drop, the poppy seed heads will begin to dry. Leave them on the plant until the stalks have turned beige and the slits at the top of the poppy pod have opened to release the seeds. Gather the heads and let them dry completely, then shake out the seeds.
Replanting
Many of the seeds will fall to the ground and plant themselves, but save some seeds to scatter again in spring, especially if the grocery-store seeds yield any unusual colors or forms that you wish to grow again.
Colors
While specific strains, such as Lauren's Grape (purple), Danish Flag (deep orange with white feathery centers) and peony poppies (multiple petals in jewel tones) are offered in commercial seed packages, grocery-store poppy seeds grow just as well, although in limited colors and types. Most produce a single pink poppy flower.
Timing
Annual poppies grow best if they get a period of cold, so it is often recommended that they be planted in fall or sprinkled on the snow. However, especially in areas with wet winters and cold springs, planting in mid-February yields better results.
Planting
Scatter the seeds on the ground and do not cover them, as sunlight is needed for germination. If your climate is dry, keep the seeds moist with a fine spray from the hose until they come up. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, thin out any crowded clumps.
Gathering Seeds
Poppy flowers last only a few days. After the petals drop, the poppy seed heads will begin to dry. Leave them on the plant until the stalks have turned beige and the slits at the top of the poppy pod have opened to release the seeds. Gather the heads and let them dry completely, then shake out the seeds.
Replanting
Many of the seeds will fall to the ground and plant themselves, but save some seeds to scatter again in spring, especially if the grocery-store seeds yield any unusual colors or forms that you wish to grow again.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Marigolds are annual flowering plants. Native to Mexico, marigolds prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Marigolds are related to asters and grow easily from seed or transplanted bedding plants. These plants bloom in summer with colors in shades of yellow, orange and red with solid, bi-color and striped flowers. Choose varieties from 6 to 36 inches in height. Cut back marigolds to encourage healthy foliage and prolific flowering.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytes are one of nature’s most adaptive plants. These wonderful specimens can thrive without deep soil by harvesting much of their water and nutrient needs from the air. Some epiphytes reproduce through pups and others from seed or vegetative action. The easiest epiphyte plant propagation is through pups, but not all varieties produce these. Seed can take years to develop recognizable plants, while cuttings on epiphytic cacti seem the best choice. Propagating epiphytic plants starts with recognizing which type of plant you are growing and choosing the method best for that species.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
Propagating Epiphytic Plants
There are many types of epiphytic plants. Bromeliads are one of the most common houseplants but you may also come upon epiphytic cacti, Tillandsia and other species. Each has a different method of reproduction. Knowing how to propagate epiphytic plants will help increase your collection and sustain any favorite specimens. Epiphyte plant propagation is not particularly difficult but there are a few rules to observe and patience is a virtue.
Epiphytic Seed Propagation
Propagation by seed is probably the most universally recognized method for any plant. Epiphytes can be grown from seed if it can be acquired or gather seed from your own plants. Use a well-draining substrate, such as half sand and half peat or even pure vermiculite. Moisten the substrate evenly and sow seeds almost at the surface of the soil and barely covered with sand. Most epiphytes hail from heavy, thick jungles and prefer low light conditions which means they seed in such lighting. Keep your container in a low light area of the home where temperatures are at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.). A heat mat will greatly improve the chances of germination. Keep the substrate lightly moist but not soggy. The time of germination will vary upon species. You will not need to start transplanting epiphytes grown from seed for at least two years; yes, they grow that slowly.
How to Propagate Epiphytic Plants with Cuttings
Probably the best species for cuttings are cacti. Epiphytic cacti cuttings produce an exact clone of the parent plant and will flower and fruit much more quickly than plants sown with seed. This method of epiphyte plant propagation can yield roots in just weeks and blooms within the year. Use clean, sterile cutting implements to avoid transfer of disease. Cuttings can be taken any time of the year but tend to work best if taken in spring. If the plant is branching and has segmented stems, take the cutting at the joint. If the plant has pads, either cut at the base of the pad or you can take the upper segment of the pad. Allow cuttings to callus for a week before planting in sterile sand that has been moistened. If the cactus is a sun seeker, place container in a bright location and if the parent was a low light plant, site the cutting in less light. Keep the medium moderately moist and temperatures high, up to 75 degrees F. (24 C.) provides optimum germination conditions.
Propagating Pups
No, we’re not talking about canines, but the offsets on many epiphytes. Bromeliads are a classic example of a plant that produces pups. Over the years, a single plant can become a crowded group of small and large plants all clustered together. These are pups and are easy to remove from the parent and plant singly. Transplanting epiphytes in this manner results in faster mature plants and is so easy even a novice gardener can accomplish the task successfully. Pups should be 1/3 as tall as the parent. You may either pull the pup away from the mother or use a sharp knife to cut it away. Ensure part of the mother’s root system is attached. Allow the broken or cut end to callus for up to a week. Prepare moist, sterile soil and insert the pup just deep enough so it stands upright. Keep the container in moderate light where temperatures are warm and in a few weeks it will start to root. Care of pups is the same as adult plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids, members of the Orchidaceae family, are prized for their attractive and exotic flowers. Considered difficult for amateurs to grow from seed, orchid species may be hardy from USDA zones 4 through 12. From hardy natives to tropical beauties, orchid seeds contain few food reserves, naturally relying on a symbiotic relationship with a fungus to provide their nutrients. Home growers imitate this relationship by sowing orchid seeds on a gelled, algae-based nutrient solution known as agar. Because the seeds and agar are generally kept in a flask, this process is called flasking. Agar or nutrient agar mixtures can be purchased. Alternatively, home growers can make an orchid-flasking, agar medium of their own.
Step 1
Mix water, gelatin, sugar and beef bouillon cubes or granules together in a saucepan. The amount of each used will depend on the amount of growing medium desired, but a sample mixture would have the following ingredient proportions: 4 cups of water, four packets of plain gelatin or a substitutable amount of agar, 8 teaspoons of sugar and four bouillon cubes or 4 teaspoons of bouillon granules.
Step 2
Boil this mixture, stirring constantly.
Step 3
Cool the mixture once it has been brought to a boil and all of the ingredients have dissolved. Keep the mixture sterile. Avoid exposing it to any surfaces, skin or other materials that may harbor any amount of bacteria. Keep it covered to prevent contamination and let it cool for no more than eight minutes.
Step 4
Pour the mixture into sterilized flasks. Purchase sterilized flasks and avoid opening them and exposing them to microorganisms until immediately before they will be filled with the growing medium, or sterilize the flasks in a pressure cooker or oven. In a pressure cooker, sterilize the flasks for 15 minutes at 15 psi (pounds per square inch). For oven sterilization, put glassware in the oven for two to three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 5
Cover the flasks and let them cool until the gelatin has set. The flasks may be refrigerated to encourage setting.
Step 6
Keep the flasks cool, ideally refrigerated, until the orchid seeds are ready to sow. For best results, the medium should be put to use within three days after you have made it.
Step 1
Mix water, gelatin, sugar and beef bouillon cubes or granules together in a saucepan. The amount of each used will depend on the amount of growing medium desired, but a sample mixture would have the following ingredient proportions: 4 cups of water, four packets of plain gelatin or a substitutable amount of agar, 8 teaspoons of sugar and four bouillon cubes or 4 teaspoons of bouillon granules.
Step 2
Boil this mixture, stirring constantly.
Step 3
Cool the mixture once it has been brought to a boil and all of the ingredients have dissolved. Keep the mixture sterile. Avoid exposing it to any surfaces, skin or other materials that may harbor any amount of bacteria. Keep it covered to prevent contamination and let it cool for no more than eight minutes.
Step 4
Pour the mixture into sterilized flasks. Purchase sterilized flasks and avoid opening them and exposing them to microorganisms until immediately before they will be filled with the growing medium, or sterilize the flasks in a pressure cooker or oven. In a pressure cooker, sterilize the flasks for 15 minutes at 15 psi (pounds per square inch). For oven sterilization, put glassware in the oven for two to three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 5
Cover the flasks and let them cool until the gelatin has set. The flasks may be refrigerated to encourage setting.
Step 6
Keep the flasks cool, ideally refrigerated, until the orchid seeds are ready to sow. For best results, the medium should be put to use within three days after you have made it.
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