文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
The seeds contained in a fresh tomato look just the same as the seeds in a seed packet bought from a garden supply store. Under the right circumstances, these seeds can grow into tomato plants for next year's garden. So this summer, before you eat the last fresh tomato from the vine, think about using it to start plants for your garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
Hormone Inhibitors
The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture.
Moisture
Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix.
Warmth
Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light
Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light.
Soil
Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
The muscadine, Vitis rotunifolia, is a type of grape that is grown primarily in the southern states. It has a tough skin and contains a hard, inedible seed. They have a sweet, rich flavor and come in bronze and purple-black colors. The light-colored variety is sometimes called "scuppergongs."A crop that can tolerate the high humidity of the South, muscadine season brings rich rewards for growers.
About Muscadine Grapes
Muscadine grapes come in a number of varieties of both bronze and black types. Some types are self-fertilizing, while other varieties need a pollinator planted nearby in order to produce fruit. Some of the popular bronze varieties include Summit, Higgins and Carlos. Common purple types are Cowart, Regale and Supreme.
Planting Muscadine Grapes
For best results, muscadine grapes are planted in early spring after all danger of frost has passed, according to Florida Grape Growers Association writer Jiang Lu. These plants prefer a slightly acid soil of 6.0 with fertile, loamy soil. Plants are placed in six to eight-inch holes and watered generously to give them a good start. As shoots grow, growers must train the new vines onto trellises or wires to support the plants as the fruit forms. Vines are generally limited to two main lateral shoots and side suckers should be removed to concentrate nutrients to these two producing segments.
Cultivation of Muscadine Grapes
Muscadine grapes are pruned between November and February. Small spurs are kept on the vines every six inches. These spurs are pruned to bear only two or three buds. Fertilize plants with 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 mixtures of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Use one pound of fertilizer per year of age of the vine up to four pounds. Irrigate weekly. Muscadine grape roots run shallow, so keep plants weeded by hand or with a hoe. Mechanical methods of weeding may damage roots.
Muscadine Harvest Season
Muscadine grapes are harvested starting the third season of growth. The grapes mature from early August to September. Fruit is ready for harvest when it falls easily from the vine. Shaking the vines firmly will dislodge the mature fruits. Remove mature fruits every two to five days during the harvest season.
Problems of Muscadine
Though muscadine grapes have fewer pest problems than other bunch grapes, they can still suffer from anthracnose, downy mildew and black rot. Use a fungicide recommended by your local agricultural extension service for the best results for your area.
About Muscadine Grapes
Muscadine grapes come in a number of varieties of both bronze and black types. Some types are self-fertilizing, while other varieties need a pollinator planted nearby in order to produce fruit. Some of the popular bronze varieties include Summit, Higgins and Carlos. Common purple types are Cowart, Regale and Supreme.
Planting Muscadine Grapes
For best results, muscadine grapes are planted in early spring after all danger of frost has passed, according to Florida Grape Growers Association writer Jiang Lu. These plants prefer a slightly acid soil of 6.0 with fertile, loamy soil. Plants are placed in six to eight-inch holes and watered generously to give them a good start. As shoots grow, growers must train the new vines onto trellises or wires to support the plants as the fruit forms. Vines are generally limited to two main lateral shoots and side suckers should be removed to concentrate nutrients to these two producing segments.
Cultivation of Muscadine Grapes
Muscadine grapes are pruned between November and February. Small spurs are kept on the vines every six inches. These spurs are pruned to bear only two or three buds. Fertilize plants with 4-1-2 or 3-1-2 mixtures of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Use one pound of fertilizer per year of age of the vine up to four pounds. Irrigate weekly. Muscadine grape roots run shallow, so keep plants weeded by hand or with a hoe. Mechanical methods of weeding may damage roots.
Muscadine Harvest Season
Muscadine grapes are harvested starting the third season of growth. The grapes mature from early August to September. Fruit is ready for harvest when it falls easily from the vine. Shaking the vines firmly will dislodge the mature fruits. Remove mature fruits every two to five days during the harvest season.
Problems of Muscadine
Though muscadine grapes have fewer pest problems than other bunch grapes, they can still suffer from anthracnose, downy mildew and black rot. Use a fungicide recommended by your local agricultural extension service for the best results for your area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Abominable Mystery
The search for the first flower has been a prime driving force for botanists interested in the evolution of seed plants.
The question as to how the first flowers appeared has been famously referred to as the “abominable mystery” by Charles Darwin.
Flowering plants are believed to have evolved around 140 million years ago. This is a time so deep in prehistory that it is difficult for the human mind to conceive.
Remarkably, a lineage of plants that has existed since then still exists.
And when the age of molecular sciences came about, a relatively unknown plant was about to make headlines in the scientific world, and earn a prominent place in the evolutionary history of plants.
This plant is none other than Amborella trichopoda.
Primitiveness of Amborella
Amborella is a rare understory shrub or small tree found only on the island of New Caledonia.
Amborella trichopoda is the only species in the genus, and is the only member of the family Amborellaceae.
It was known for some time already, that Amborella wood has a peculiar character – it lacks the vessels characteristic of most flowering plants.
This lack of vessels is a trait that is more typically associated with conifers, and is therefore thought to be a primitive trait in the evolution of plants in general.
There are a few lineages of flowering plants which also lack vessels and these lineages are also considered to be very old plant lineages.
However, it was only at the advent of the molecular age that Amborella was finally assigned it’s rightful place at or near the base of all flowering plant lineages.
Amborella thus represents a line of flowering plants that diverged very early (about 130 million years ago) from all the other known species of flowering plants.
Imaginarium
Knowing the history of Amborella and standing beside a live specimen is a strange experience.
One gets the sense of how a prehistorical landscape with Amborella might have looked like.
In a time before flowering plants dominated the earth, humble Amborella-like shrubs must have eked out a meagre existence in the understoreys of a conifer-dominated forest.
And the descendants within the Amborella lineage have persisted long after the demise of the dinosaurs, to witness now the dominion of the most advanced of flowers.
Such is the drama of a very-likely-to-be spurious imagined botanical ancestry of Amborella.
But the real story that has led to Amborella’s presence in our world, in our time, is lost in a long broken line of ancestors, with no fossils yet to link any dots.
Charles Darwin’s “abominable mystery” is still just as abominable now, as it was a century ago.
Standing before Amborella, I ask of her ancestry. She smiles and remains silent.
The search for the first flower has been a prime driving force for botanists interested in the evolution of seed plants.
The question as to how the first flowers appeared has been famously referred to as the “abominable mystery” by Charles Darwin.
Flowering plants are believed to have evolved around 140 million years ago. This is a time so deep in prehistory that it is difficult for the human mind to conceive.
Remarkably, a lineage of plants that has existed since then still exists.
And when the age of molecular sciences came about, a relatively unknown plant was about to make headlines in the scientific world, and earn a prominent place in the evolutionary history of plants.
This plant is none other than Amborella trichopoda.
Primitiveness of Amborella
Amborella is a rare understory shrub or small tree found only on the island of New Caledonia.
Amborella trichopoda is the only species in the genus, and is the only member of the family Amborellaceae.
It was known for some time already, that Amborella wood has a peculiar character – it lacks the vessels characteristic of most flowering plants.
This lack of vessels is a trait that is more typically associated with conifers, and is therefore thought to be a primitive trait in the evolution of plants in general.
There are a few lineages of flowering plants which also lack vessels and these lineages are also considered to be very old plant lineages.
However, it was only at the advent of the molecular age that Amborella was finally assigned it’s rightful place at or near the base of all flowering plant lineages.
Amborella thus represents a line of flowering plants that diverged very early (about 130 million years ago) from all the other known species of flowering plants.
Imaginarium
Knowing the history of Amborella and standing beside a live specimen is a strange experience.
One gets the sense of how a prehistorical landscape with Amborella might have looked like.
In a time before flowering plants dominated the earth, humble Amborella-like shrubs must have eked out a meagre existence in the understoreys of a conifer-dominated forest.
And the descendants within the Amborella lineage have persisted long after the demise of the dinosaurs, to witness now the dominion of the most advanced of flowers.
Such is the drama of a very-likely-to-be spurious imagined botanical ancestry of Amborella.
But the real story that has led to Amborella’s presence in our world, in our time, is lost in a long broken line of ancestors, with no fossils yet to link any dots.
Charles Darwin’s “abominable mystery” is still just as abominable now, as it was a century ago.
Standing before Amborella, I ask of her ancestry. She smiles and remains silent.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
IF you want to grow flowers from seed, start with sweet peas. The large seeds are easy to manage and most varieties germinate readily. Plus, the resulting blooms are gorgeous and sweetly scented.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing cacti and succulents from seed is relatively straightforward, and can produce a diverse collection of plants in only a few years. There are more than 2,000 species of cacti and succulents suitable as tabletop potted plants or tall floor plants. Cactus and succulent seeds are generally available from commercial seed companies.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
1. Clean propagation pans by washing them with disinfectant. Pans should be small and shallow, no more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter. There are many different suggested growing media formulas to experiment with. One formula calls for mixing a coarsely sifted organic growing medium, such as commercial potting soil, with an equal volume of sharp sand, perlite or pumice for drainage.
2. Pasteurize your growing medium by baking it in an oven at 300 degrees Fahrenheit (150 degrees Celsius) for 30 minutes. Allow it to cool and wet it thoroughly. Let it drain but not dry out. Fill the propagation pans with the moist soil mixture to about 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) below the rim.
3. Sow seeds in the pans around the end of April. Plant seeds as deep into the soil as the seeds are wide and press down lightly. Cover small seeds with a sprinkling of sand to hold them in place. Seed spacing will depend on the species of cactus or succulent you are germinating. Cover the pans with clear plastic or glass. Place them in a bright location but out of direct sun. Keep temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). If soil seems too dry, spray lightly with water. Be sparing. Too much water can drown the seed. Don’t let soil dry out.
4. Watch for germination. Most cacti and succulents will germinate within three weeks but some species require more time — up to a year. When seedling plants appear, raise the cover during the day for ventilation. Watch soil moisture. Don’t allow soil to dry out but also don’t saturate it. Keep temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (10 and 21 degrees Celsius).
5. Transplant your plants into their permanent pots. Most cacti and succulents will be ready to transplant in 6 months to a year after germination. The right growth size for transplanting will depend on the species you are growing. Most cacti can be transplanted when they are the size of a large marble. Many other succulents may be transplanted when they are 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) tall. Gently lift the plants from the growing medium, set into the soil of the new container, firm the soil around the roots and water well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Growing plants from seed is not as hard as you might think – even though many of us have tried and failed! One of the most common mistakes people make is planting the seeds too deeply. You should only plant a seed as deep in the soil as the seed is wide. When seeds are planted too deeply the tiny plants emerge and begin to grow but do not reach the surface before they run out of stored food. Follow these instructions for growing cacti from seed and you will surely be successful.
Seed
It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil
A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting
Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination
Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting
Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization
Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
Seed
It is best to use fresh seed when growing most cacti. Seed can be obtained from a commercial source or collected from a plant in your collection. Take care when collecting seed from a cactus collection. Some cactus species hybridize freely and true seed cannot be assured unless pollination has been monitored carefully.
Soil
A good potting mix, amended with ½ its volume of granite, perlite or pumice for drainage, makes a good mix for growing cacti from seed. It is important that the soil be as pest-free as possible. To pasteurize soil, put it in a shallow heatproof pan, place it in the oven at 300°F (150°C) for 30 minutes. Most commercial soils are at least pasteurized, if not sterilized. Check the label.
Planting
Be sure that all containers to be used are clean. The type of container is not important, but shallow ones are preferred. Water the soil thoroughly and let it drain completely before planting. Spread the seed evenly over the top of the soil. Cover the seed lightly with the mix or very fine sand. When planted, cover the container with any transparent lid. This will retain moisture and allow light to reach the seedlings.
Germination
Cactus seeds need both light and warmth to germinate. A sunny window is a good location, but be careful the light is not too strong and therefore too hot. The moisture retained by the cover should be sufficient to germinate the seed. Most cactus seeds germinate within 3 weeks, but some take much longer – be patient. Once the spines are showing, raise the cover for ventilation during the day. Do not allow the soil to dry out. The amount of water will depend on how much light and heat the seedlings receive. Watch the seedlings carefully. Do not swamp them in puddled water but do not let them dry out completely.
Repotting
Seedlings are ready to transplant into larger containers when they are the size of marbles between 6 months to a year after germination. Be sure the soil mix is very well drained, and the container is no larger than twice the diameter of the plant. At this size, plants can be grown in clumps or groups of 6-8 per pot until they are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, then separated and individually repotted. Lift the small plants carefully from the growing mix, place in the new container, firm the soil around the roots, and water in.
It is usually best to let the young plants recover from transplanting in a shaded area. Even in cacti that naturally grow with full sun, seedlings will be tender to full sun until they are older. Acclimate a young plant to the sun gradually beginning when it is about 1 inch (2.5 cm) across. It is often easier to acclimate young plants to the sun in the winter, and provide some shade in the summer until they are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) across.
Fertilization
Fertilize young seedlings monthly in the growing season, usually the warm season. Use a formulation specifically for cactus, or an all purpose soluble houseplant formula at ½ the recommended strength.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A mature Echeveria plant, with waxy leaves resembling a rose, is a beautiful sight to behold. Although they originate from Mexico and Central America, these drought-tolerant plants can be grown from seed in many parts of the world. By following the process outlined below, advanced and beginner gardening enthusiasts can grow their own Echeveria plants from seed.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
Preparing Seeds for Planting
Gardeners must ensure that they use fresh Echeveria seeds to grow their plants. Old seeds germinate rarely, and they often fail to grow well. Once gardeners have sourced suitable seeds, they mix these seeds with approximately twice the volume of fine sand and stir the mixture gently with a toothpick. Echeveria seeds are black and tiny, so the resulting mixture resembles a fine, multi-colored powder.
Planting Seeds
Successful Echeveria plants require plant pots with an average diameter measuring 4 inches (10 cm). These pots should be filled with a well-draining, soil-free potting mix. Gardeners purchase this potting mix from an online or brick and mortar retailer, or they can make their own. Each pot requires firm tapping against a bench or table to settle the potting mix. The gardener gathers a pinch of sand and seed mixture between finger and thumb and carefully sprinkles it over the soil, so that each pot has a sparse covering.
Germinating Seeds
To encourage germination, gardeners place their pots with the Echeveria seeds in a tray filled with water. This setup allows the soil in each pot to absorb water from the bottom. The tray is placed in a location with bright but indirect light at a temperature around 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius). It is important to maintain the correct the temperature, as Echeveria seeds do not germinate above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). The pots can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap to keep the surrounding air humid. Every so often, gardeners add water to the tray to keep the potting mix moist.
How to Spot Signs of Germination
Around three weeks after the seeds are planted, tiny leaves should start to appear. Once this happens, gardeners remove the plastic covering to give the tiny seedlings access to fresh air. They must watch out for fungal infections, which are common in Echeveria seedlings during the first two months of growth. If any fungus is visible, gardeners should treat all their pots with fungicide.
How to Care
When the Echeveria seedlings have grown to fill their pots, they must be moved into larger pots. A pot that is slightly larger than each plant’s root ball is the ideal size, since a large volume of potting mix can hold too much moisture and pose a risk to rotting in the ground. Adult Echeveria plants require less water than seedlings, and they are watered only when their potting mix feels dry to the touch. Echeveria plants also require little fertilizer; a dose of dilute liquid fertilizer at the beginning of spring is enough to fuel their growth. As Echeveria are related to cacti, they grow well with specialist cactus fertilizer or a general-purpose fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. Although these plants can thrive outdoors during the summer, they do not like cold temperatures. Gardeners residing in places that experience frost should bring these plants inside during the winter months.
Conclusion
Growing Echeveria from seed is a rewarding activity. As long as the seeds are fresh and the conditions are right, gardeners soon see fresh green leaves where once there were only a few Echeveria seeds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Dodder is an annual seed-bearing parasitic vine in the dodder family (formerly placed in the morning-glory family). Its thin, thread-like, yellow or orange stems grow rapidly entwining and covering their host plants. Cuscate is the most common genus and is found throughout the US and Canada. Of the 50 species that occur, most are found in tropical and warm-temperate areas but some species also occur in cooler areas including St. Louis where they can grow from seed each year and infest herbaceous and small woody plants. Since seeds can be difficult to separate from some agricultural crops dodder has been spread widely through agriculture.
Life Cycle
Dodder seeds germinate in soil and can live on their own for 5 to 10 days until they are about a foot tall. If they have not found a suitable host by this time the seedlings will die. Seedlings that find a suitable host twine around the plant and insert haustoria (modified adventitious roots) into the tender stem. The haustoria penetrate and tap the plant's vascular system for water, minerals and nutrients. Plants are weakly photosynthetic, but most produce very little food on their own. They rely upon their host plant for survival. As the vine taps the host plant its connection to the soil is severed. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers form in late summer and early fall and can produce copious amounts of seed. Plants are annual and are killed by frost. Plants regrow from seed each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove the plants. As soon as the thin vining stems of dodder are observed they should be gathered and removed before seed is set. Removal of the host plant is usually recommended. Complete eradication from the host plant is usually not possible.
2. Scout for and remove new seedlings as they appear. Monitor areas previously infested with dodder closely and pull young seedling before they attach themselves to new plants and certainly before they set seed. Seeds can survive in the soil for more than 20 years.
3. Treat with an herbicide. Dodder and the host plant can be killed by treating with glyphosate, a non-selective herbicide. As a follow-up measure to kill germinating seeds, treat soil with a preemergent herbicide such as Dacthal before seeds germinate in spring.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 and 2 are strictly organic approaches.
Life Cycle
Dodder seeds germinate in soil and can live on their own for 5 to 10 days until they are about a foot tall. If they have not found a suitable host by this time the seedlings will die. Seedlings that find a suitable host twine around the plant and insert haustoria (modified adventitious roots) into the tender stem. The haustoria penetrate and tap the plant's vascular system for water, minerals and nutrients. Plants are weakly photosynthetic, but most produce very little food on their own. They rely upon their host plant for survival. As the vine taps the host plant its connection to the soil is severed. Small, white, bell-shaped flowers form in late summer and early fall and can produce copious amounts of seed. Plants are annual and are killed by frost. Plants regrow from seed each year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove the plants. As soon as the thin vining stems of dodder are observed they should be gathered and removed before seed is set. Removal of the host plant is usually recommended. Complete eradication from the host plant is usually not possible.
2. Scout for and remove new seedlings as they appear. Monitor areas previously infested with dodder closely and pull young seedling before they attach themselves to new plants and certainly before they set seed. Seeds can survive in the soil for more than 20 years.
3. Treat with an herbicide. Dodder and the host plant can be killed by treating with glyphosate, a non-selective herbicide. As a follow-up measure to kill germinating seeds, treat soil with a preemergent herbicide such as Dacthal before seeds germinate in spring.
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1 and 2 are strictly organic approaches.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
The pantry moth or Indian meal moth (Plodia interpunctella) is considered to be the most troublesome of the moths infesting stored products in the United States. They attack all cereal products, whole grains, dried fruits, pet foods, bird seed, dried milk and nuts. Damage is caused by the larvae spinning silken threads as they feed and crawl, thus webbing the particles of food together. Small moths are often noticed flying in a zigzag fashion around pantries and other infested areas.
Adult moths (5/8 inch wingspan) are pale gray in color and are easily distinguished from other grain infesting moths by the reddish brown or coppery luster of their outer forewing. Fully grown larvae (1/2 inch) have brown heads and are dirty white in color, sometimes tinged with green, yellow or pink. They are extremely active.
Life Cycle
Adult females deposit up to 300 eggs on or near food materials. Within two weeks larvae hatch and begin actively feeding. As they move they spin silken threads throughout the infested foods, which may become matted with webbing. Larvae feed for approximately two weeks until fully grown and select a pupation site (cracks and crevices, pantry walls, ceilings) where they spin cocoons. Transformation to pupae occurs, and adults emerge in about 30 days. The entire life-cycle requires 4-6 weeks to complete and there may be five overlapping generations per year, depending on temperature.
Note: Indian meal moths are most often introduced into the home in packaged goods and groceries. Here’s how to get rid of them naturally.
Pantry Moth Control
Inspect foods for possible infestation before you purchase.
Store susceptible foods in as dry a place or container as possible.
Infested food items can be thrown away or salvaged by freezing for 1 week.
Clean up food spills promptly, paying close attention to cracks and crevices.
The Pantry Pest Trap uses a powerful attractant to detect adult moths. Place near the problem area, generally where dried foodstuffs are stored.
Release trichogramma wasps to attack and destroy pest eggs. These tiny beneficial insects are very effective because they prevent the pest from reaching the destructive larval stage.
Apply food-grade diatomaceous earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Bt-kurstaki (Bt-k) is a highly selective biological pesticide used to manage the larval stage of this pest. Approved for organic use, it should be applied every 7- to 10-days, as needed.
Made from citrus peel extract, Orange Guard kills and repels many bugs on contact. Spray in kitchens, pantries and under cabinets and appliances — anywhere insects hide! Safe for use around food, people and pets.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
Adult moths (5/8 inch wingspan) are pale gray in color and are easily distinguished from other grain infesting moths by the reddish brown or coppery luster of their outer forewing. Fully grown larvae (1/2 inch) have brown heads and are dirty white in color, sometimes tinged with green, yellow or pink. They are extremely active.
Life Cycle
Adult females deposit up to 300 eggs on or near food materials. Within two weeks larvae hatch and begin actively feeding. As they move they spin silken threads throughout the infested foods, which may become matted with webbing. Larvae feed for approximately two weeks until fully grown and select a pupation site (cracks and crevices, pantry walls, ceilings) where they spin cocoons. Transformation to pupae occurs, and adults emerge in about 30 days. The entire life-cycle requires 4-6 weeks to complete and there may be five overlapping generations per year, depending on temperature.
Note: Indian meal moths are most often introduced into the home in packaged goods and groceries. Here’s how to get rid of them naturally.
Pantry Moth Control
Inspect foods for possible infestation before you purchase.
Store susceptible foods in as dry a place or container as possible.
Infested food items can be thrown away or salvaged by freezing for 1 week.
Clean up food spills promptly, paying close attention to cracks and crevices.
The Pantry Pest Trap uses a powerful attractant to detect adult moths. Place near the problem area, generally where dried foodstuffs are stored.
Release trichogramma wasps to attack and destroy pest eggs. These tiny beneficial insects are very effective because they prevent the pest from reaching the destructive larval stage.
Apply food-grade diatomaceous earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons!
Bt-kurstaki (Bt-k) is a highly selective biological pesticide used to manage the larval stage of this pest. Approved for organic use, it should be applied every 7- to 10-days, as needed.
Made from citrus peel extract, Orange Guard kills and repels many bugs on contact. Spray in kitchens, pantries and under cabinets and appliances — anywhere insects hide! Safe for use around food, people and pets.
Least-toxic botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Chaste trees (Vitex agnus-castus) get their name from properties of the seed within the edible berries that are said to reduce libido. This property also explains another common name—Monk’s pepper. Chaste tree trimming is an important part of caring for the tree. Once you know when and how to prune chaste trees, you can keep them looking neat and blooming all summer.
Chaste Tree Pruning Info
There are several reasons to prune a chaste tree. Left to their own devices, they grow 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide, but you can control the size through pruning chaste trees. You can also control the shape by chaste tree trimming. Carefully placed cuts can encourage the shrub to put on new growth. Another type of pruning, called deadheading, is important to keep chaste trees blooming all summer.
When to Prune Chaste Trees
The best time to prune a chaste tree is in late winter. Even if you’ve never pruned a tree or shrub before, you can prune a chaste tree. These trees are very forgiving and quickly grow back to cover mistakes. In fact, you can cut off the entire tree at ground level and it will regrow at an astonishing pace.
How to Prune a Chaste Tree
In spring and summer, clip off the spent flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. This allows the plant to put its resources into making flowers rather than nurturing seeds. If you remove the flower spikes throughout the first half of the season, the tree may continue blooming into early fall. In winter, remove weak, twiggy growth from the center of the plant to keep it looking tidy. This is also the time to prune to encourage branching. Make cuts all the way back to a side branch whenever possible. If you must shorten rather than remove a branch, cut just above a twig or bud. New growth will take off in the direction of the bud.
Pruning chaste trees to remove the lower limbs that droop and hang close to the ground is optional, but it you remove these branches it will make lawn and garden maintenance much easier, and you’ll be able to grow ornamentals under the tree.
Chaste Tree Pruning Info
There are several reasons to prune a chaste tree. Left to their own devices, they grow 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide, but you can control the size through pruning chaste trees. You can also control the shape by chaste tree trimming. Carefully placed cuts can encourage the shrub to put on new growth. Another type of pruning, called deadheading, is important to keep chaste trees blooming all summer.
When to Prune Chaste Trees
The best time to prune a chaste tree is in late winter. Even if you’ve never pruned a tree or shrub before, you can prune a chaste tree. These trees are very forgiving and quickly grow back to cover mistakes. In fact, you can cut off the entire tree at ground level and it will regrow at an astonishing pace.
How to Prune a Chaste Tree
In spring and summer, clip off the spent flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. This allows the plant to put its resources into making flowers rather than nurturing seeds. If you remove the flower spikes throughout the first half of the season, the tree may continue blooming into early fall. In winter, remove weak, twiggy growth from the center of the plant to keep it looking tidy. This is also the time to prune to encourage branching. Make cuts all the way back to a side branch whenever possible. If you must shorten rather than remove a branch, cut just above a twig or bud. New growth will take off in the direction of the bud.
Pruning chaste trees to remove the lower limbs that droop and hang close to the ground is optional, but it you remove these branches it will make lawn and garden maintenance much easier, and you’ll be able to grow ornamentals under the tree.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Enterolobium earpod trees get their common name from unusual seed pods shaped like human ears. In this article, you’ll learn more about this unusual shade tree and where they like to grow, so read on for more earpod tree info.
What is an Earpod Tree?
Earpod trees (Enterolobium cyclocarpum), also called ear trees, are tall shade trees with a wide, spreading canopy. The tree can grow 75 feet tall or more. The spiral pods measure 3 to 4 inches in diameter.
Earpod trees are native to Central America and northern parts of South America, and have been introduced to the Southern tips of North America. They prefer a climate with both a humid and dry season, but they will grow in any amount of humidity.
The trees are deciduous, dropping their leaves during the dry season. They bloom before they leaf out, when the rainy season begins. The pods that follow the flowers take a year to ripen and fall from the tree the following year. Costa Rica adopted the earpod as its national tree because of its many uses. It provides both shade and food. People roast the seeds and eat them, and the whole pod serves as a nutritious food for cattle. Growing earpod trees on coffee plantations provide coffee plants with just the right amount of shade, and the trees serve as habitat for many species of reptiles, birds, and insects. The wood resists termite and fungi, and is used to make paneling and veneer.
Enterolobium Earpod Tree Info
Earpod trees aren’t suited to home landscapes because of their size, but they might make good shade trees in parks and playgrounds in warm, tropical climates. Even so, they have a few traits that make them undesirable, especially in southeastern coastal areas. Earpod trees have weak, brittle branches that break easily in strong winds. They aren’t well-suited for coastal areas because they don’t tolerate salt spray or salty soil. The parts of the U.S. with a warm enough climate often experience hurricanes, which can blow over an Enterolobium ear tree. The pods that fall from the tree are messy and require regular cleanup. They are large and hard enough to cause a turned ankle when you step on them. They may grow best in the Southwest where there is a distinct wet and dry season and hurricanes are infrequent.
Earpod Tree Care
Earpod trees need a frost-free climate and a location with full sun and well-drained soil. They don’t compete well with weeds for moisture and nutrients. Eliminate the weeds in the planting site and use a generous layer of mulch to prevent weeds from sprouting. Like most members of the legume (bean and pea) family, earpod trees can extract nitrogen from the air. This ability means that they don’t need regular fertilization. The trees are very easy to grow because they don’t need fertilizer or supplemental water.
What is an Earpod Tree?
Earpod trees (Enterolobium cyclocarpum), also called ear trees, are tall shade trees with a wide, spreading canopy. The tree can grow 75 feet tall or more. The spiral pods measure 3 to 4 inches in diameter.
Earpod trees are native to Central America and northern parts of South America, and have been introduced to the Southern tips of North America. They prefer a climate with both a humid and dry season, but they will grow in any amount of humidity.
The trees are deciduous, dropping their leaves during the dry season. They bloom before they leaf out, when the rainy season begins. The pods that follow the flowers take a year to ripen and fall from the tree the following year. Costa Rica adopted the earpod as its national tree because of its many uses. It provides both shade and food. People roast the seeds and eat them, and the whole pod serves as a nutritious food for cattle. Growing earpod trees on coffee plantations provide coffee plants with just the right amount of shade, and the trees serve as habitat for many species of reptiles, birds, and insects. The wood resists termite and fungi, and is used to make paneling and veneer.
Enterolobium Earpod Tree Info
Earpod trees aren’t suited to home landscapes because of their size, but they might make good shade trees in parks and playgrounds in warm, tropical climates. Even so, they have a few traits that make them undesirable, especially in southeastern coastal areas. Earpod trees have weak, brittle branches that break easily in strong winds. They aren’t well-suited for coastal areas because they don’t tolerate salt spray or salty soil. The parts of the U.S. with a warm enough climate often experience hurricanes, which can blow over an Enterolobium ear tree. The pods that fall from the tree are messy and require regular cleanup. They are large and hard enough to cause a turned ankle when you step on them. They may grow best in the Southwest where there is a distinct wet and dry season and hurricanes are infrequent.
Earpod Tree Care
Earpod trees need a frost-free climate and a location with full sun and well-drained soil. They don’t compete well with weeds for moisture and nutrients. Eliminate the weeds in the planting site and use a generous layer of mulch to prevent weeds from sprouting. Like most members of the legume (bean and pea) family, earpod trees can extract nitrogen from the air. This ability means that they don’t need regular fertilization. The trees are very easy to grow because they don’t need fertilizer or supplemental water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
It’s inevitable, but there are a few things that can delay it. What am I talking about? Bolting parsley plants. Basically that means that rather suddenly your parsley has flowered and then the parsley plant has gone to seed. Read on to find out what to do when your parsley bolts?
What to Do When Parsley Bolts
By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.
How to Keep Parsley from Bolting
Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting: First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar. Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to extend to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest. On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat. You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.
What to Do When Parsley Bolts
By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.
How to Keep Parsley from Bolting
Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting: First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar. Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to extend to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest. On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat. You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pruning mint is a pleasant task, as the plants release a new burst of minty fragrance with each cut you make. You have two objectives when pruning the plant: to keep the bed healthy and to prevent it from flowering and going to seed. Flowering reduces the quality and potency of the leaves. Read on to find out when and how to prune mint plants. Never be afraid to pinch a few sprigs of mint when you need them, but if you need a large quantity of mint, wait until pruning time. If you want a low-growing bed of mint, you can keep it as short as 4 inches. This is a good height for mint grown in small containers. Otherwise, let it grow 8 to 12 inches tall before you prune it.
When to Prune Mint
You can sometimes get a light harvest from mint during the first year, but it’s generally best to wait until the second year, just before the plants bloom. After mint blooms, it loses some of its essential oil, making the leaves less fragrant and flavorful. Watch for the buds that indicate when the plant is about to bloom. Once buds appear, you can pinch them or cut back the plants. During the second year, you can cut the plants back two or three times. Trimming mint plants to the ground before winter is an essential part of preventing insect pests and diseases, such as anthracnose, that would otherwise overwinter in the plants.
How to Prune Mint
If you’re pruning mint during the growing season, cut the plants back by about half. This will remove the tips of the plant where the flowers would otherwise bloom and provide plenty of mint for fresh use, freezing or drying. When you perform mint plant pruning at the end of the year or end of season, cut them to within an inch of the ground. If you have a large bed, you can use a lawn mower.
When to Prune Mint
You can sometimes get a light harvest from mint during the first year, but it’s generally best to wait until the second year, just before the plants bloom. After mint blooms, it loses some of its essential oil, making the leaves less fragrant and flavorful. Watch for the buds that indicate when the plant is about to bloom. Once buds appear, you can pinch them or cut back the plants. During the second year, you can cut the plants back two or three times. Trimming mint plants to the ground before winter is an essential part of preventing insect pests and diseases, such as anthracnose, that would otherwise overwinter in the plants.
How to Prune Mint
If you’re pruning mint during the growing season, cut the plants back by about half. This will remove the tips of the plant where the flowers would otherwise bloom and provide plenty of mint for fresh use, freezing or drying. When you perform mint plant pruning at the end of the year or end of season, cut them to within an inch of the ground. If you have a large bed, you can use a lawn mower.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a popular plant to grow for its culinary possibilities. A common ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine, it’s very easy to grow at home. And what’s more, you don’t even have to grow it from seed or buy plants at a nursery. Lemongrass propagates with a very high success rate from the cuttings you can buy at the grocery store. Keep reading to learn more about propagating a lemongrass plant and regrowing lemongrass plants in water.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
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