文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月27日
Despite its common name, creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia procumbens) belongs to a different plant genus than the true zinnias (Zinnia spp.). It gets its name because the oval, pointed leaves bear a strong resemblance to those of the zinnias. And it is like zinnia in another way: It has a very long bloom period with colorful flowers that have the same daisy-like shape common to all members of the Asteraceae family. Creeping zinnia is a cheery annual plant with a spreading nature and low, 6-inch stature, ideal as groundcover or for planting in containers as trailers. The fine green foliage is unique in itself, but the small yellow blooms steal the show and have been compared in appearance to sunflowers, albeit a miniature version. Creeping zinnia is a true annual that dies at the end of the growing season, but its abundant blooms and carefree nature make it worth re-planting year after year.
Creeping zinnia is normally planted from potted nursery starts in the spring after the threat of frost has passed, though it is also easy to grow from seed. Like most true annuals, it is a fast-growing plant that will flower in its first season—about 10 weeks after seeds are planted.
Common Name Creeping zinnia, Mexican creeping zinnia
Botanical Name Sanvitalia procumbens
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous annual
Mature Size 4–6 in. tall, 12–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full to part sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to slightly alkaline (5.5–7.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (true annual, grown in all USDA zones)
Native Area Central America (Mexico, Guatemala)
Creeping Zinnia Care
Creeping zinnia is an exceedingly easy plant to grow in a full-sun or partial shade location in moderately fertile soil, provided it gets sufficient water. It thrives in summer conditions and won't shrivel up even in the face of high temperatures and humidity. Creeping zinnia requires regular watering but does not tolerate soggy conditions.
Creeping zinnia is often planted in spring from potted nursery plants after the soil has fully warmed in the spring and nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Loosen the soil thoroughly, adding organic amendments such as peat moss or compost, if necessary. Plant so the top of the root ball is at the soil level.
Many people, however, prefer to direct sow seeds in the precise locations where they want plants to grow, since creeping zinnias may react badly to transplanting. Direct-sown seeds are usually planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring.
Sunlight
Creeping zinnia will grow well in full sun or partial shade conditions, but its true flowering potential depends on direct sun for six to eight hours per day. In spots that receive just four to six hours of sun, these plants will generally fare fine but won’t have the same abundant blooms
Soil
These plants can tolerate a range of soil types, including average to relatively fertile, humus-rich conditions. However, creeping zinnia requires that soil drains well. Otherwise, its roots can become waterlogged and rot.
Water
While creeping zinnia enjoys hot weather and tolerates periods of drought, don’t let this fool you into thinking that this plant won’t need regular watering. It’s important to keep the plant from becoming waterlogged, but it prefers consistently medium-moist soil conditions. For this reason, you might need to water these plants once or twice daily if grown in a container during stretches of dry weather. Aim for moist but well-aerated soil that dries out slightly between waterings, but don't allow the soil to become overly dry and crumbly.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot temperatures and high humidity will make creeping zinnia feel right at home. Native to Central American countries Mexico and Guatemala, these plants thrive when the temperature rises and won’t wilt in a hot climate. But they’re only moderately tolerant of cool weather and will fade and die once the average nightly temperature dips below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
For a healthy, abundantly-blooming plant, provide at least moderately fertile soil conditions. Creeping zinnia doesn’t have overly specific or substantial nutritional needs, but if the soil you plant it in is less than average, you might need to use organic or a balanced conventional fertilizer.
Creeping zinnia planted in containers or pots often benefits from a slow-release fertilizer or a periodic application of liquid fertilizer to support the overall growth and health of the plant.
Types of Creeping Zinnia
There are more than a dozen named cultivars of creeping zinnia, mostly bred to exhibit small variations in flower shape and color or differences in foliage. Consider these recommendations:
‘Sprite’ series features semi-double flowers in shades of orange and yellow with dark brown centers. Plants are 10 to 12 inches tall.
‘Gold Braid’ is a profuse bloomer with golden-yellow flowers with dark brown centers.
‘Irish Eyes’ has orange-yellow flowers with green centers. Plants are a compact 6 inches in height.
‘Mandarin Orange’ features double flowers that are a deep, rich orange with dark brown center disks, closely resembling miniature sunflowers.
Pruning
Deadhead the spent flowers regularly to keep the plants looking neat and to promote continued blooming. Stems that become too long can be clipped back to keep the plants nicely compact.
Propagating Creeping Zinnia
Creeping zinnia can be propagated in several ways: from seeds collected from the flower heads; by dividing the rootball into separate sections for replanting; or by taking stem clipping to root in a growing medium. In commercial settings, it is normally propagated by seed, since the plant is not fond of being transplanted. But home gardeners often use the stem-cutting method to propagate new plants indoors over the winter, thereby keeping favorite plants alive. Here's how to do it:
As the weather begins to cool in fall, use sharp pruners to clip 6- to 8-inch stem cuttings from healthy, actively growing plants. Remove any flowers and flower buds, and also remove the leaves from the bottom 2 inches of each cutting.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then plant the cutting in a 4-inch pot filled with a seed-starter mix or standard potting soil.
Place the pot inside a loosely secured clear plastic bag, and set it in a location with bright, indirect light. Inspect the pot every few days and water lightly if the potting medium begins to dry out.
Check for root development every week or so by tugging gently on the stem. When you begin to feel resistance, it means the cutting has developed roots.
When an ample network of roots has developed, remove the pot from the plastic covering and continue to grow it in a warm, sunny location. The plant can continue to grow indoors until spring. Plant it outdoors once nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
.
How to Grow Creeping Zinnia From Seed
Starting creeping zinnia from seed isn't very complicated, but be aware these plants don't always tolerate being transplanted. For best results, consider direct-sowing seeds in the location where you want to grow them rather than in starter trays. The seeds are relatively easy to collect from individual spent blooms, though the small size of the flower heads might make it somewhat tedious work. They store well over the winter and can be planted in the spring.
These seeds require sunlight to germinate, so don't bury them under a layer of soil. Instead, lightly press them into the soil surface or loosely cover them with peat moss. Water them daily and keep the soil moist for the seeds to germinate. It's always best to read the recommendations on the seed packet for specific sowing and care instructions.
Plants will bloom about 10 weeks after the seeds are sown. Many gardeners seeking the earliest possible garden bloom like to start them indoors about two to three weeks before the expected last frost date.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Zinnia
The low growing habit and abundant blooms of creeping zinnia make it a great option for container culture. These plants will fill the container, window box, or another planter with small, beautiful blooms all summer long. Keep in mind that to grow these plants successfully in containers, you'll need to ensure that they have adequate drainage. Use a quality loose and lightweight potting mix to ensure the roots don't become saturated with too much water.
Container-grown plants typically need more feeding than garden plants, mostly because the frequent watering quickly leaches nutrients from the potting medium. You might find it necessary to provide supplemental fertilizer for creeping zinnias grown in containers. Time-released or granular fertilizer pellets or a balanced liquid formula will generally give these plants a needed boost if they are not blooming as heavily as you want.
Overwintering
These frost-tender plants are normally just pulled up and discarded at the end of the growing season. If left in place, though, birds will arrive to pluck at the dried flowers for their edible seeds.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
These sturdy little plants have no notable pests and diseases to worry about. But like almost any garden plant, creeping zinnia may occasionally be troubled by minor fungal leaf spots or powdery mildew. You can minimize these problems with careful watering by ground-level soaking rather than overhead spraying.
How to Get Creeping Zinnia to Bloom
The general prescription for good blooms with creeping zinnia is to make sure they have plenty of water and sun—that's usually all it takes. In most situations, these plants will bloom vigorously all summer long—right up until cool fall weather sets in. In addition:
Regular deadheading of spent flowers will prompt continued blooms.
Long, leggy stems can be cut back to force denser growth and more flowers.
Container-grown creeping zinnias may benefit from extra feeding. However, with garden plants already growing in suitably fertile soil, too much fertilizer tends to make for long leggy stems that don't produce as many flowers.
Common Problems With Creeping Zinnia
Although they are largely trouble-free, creeping zinnias may cause gardeners concern about these symptoms:
Seedlings Die Immediately After Planting
Even with potted nursery starts, transplanting creeping zinnias should be done very carefully so as to avoid disturbance of the roots. These plants often resent being moved, so treat them with kid gloves to make sure they survive transplanting into the garden. Some gardeners prefer to direct-sow the seeds in the exact locations where they want the plants to grow to avoid this problem.
Plants Have Become Sparse
When growing in fertile soil or when given a lot of fertilizer, creeping zinnias can develop long, leggy stems that are somewhat bare except at the tips. These leggy stems can be aggressively cut back to near the base of the plant, which will stimulate new growth and cause the plant to become fuller and bushier.
FAQ
How should I use creeping zinnia in the landscape?
Creeping zinnias are often used as foreground bedding or edging plants in sunny border gardens, or in sunny rock gardens. Planted over large open sunny areas, they can make a colorful seasonal ground cover. They are also a very dependable plant for window boxes, hanging baskets, and large mixed patio/deck container gardens.
Do creeping zinnias self-seed in the garden?
Yes, if the flower heads are left on the plant, the tiny seeds often fall into the soil and take root. But these volunteers are not easy to dig up and move, so it's best to leave them in place to colonize. A small patch of creeping zinnias can be self-sustaining from year to year if you live some flower heads in place to drop seed and produce volunteers the following spring.
Are there any standard zinnias that have this creeping, trailing habit?
Most standard zinnias are upright plants, though some are quite short. But for a trailing habit similar to that of the creeping zinnia, try one of the cultivars of Zinnia augustifolea (spreading zinnia). They will have a similar growth habit to creeping zinnia, but they offer a considerably wider range of flower colors.
Creeping zinnia is normally planted from potted nursery starts in the spring after the threat of frost has passed, though it is also easy to grow from seed. Like most true annuals, it is a fast-growing plant that will flower in its first season—about 10 weeks after seeds are planted.
Common Name Creeping zinnia, Mexican creeping zinnia
Botanical Name Sanvitalia procumbens
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous annual
Mature Size 4–6 in. tall, 12–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full to part sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic to slightly alkaline (5.5–7.5)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (true annual, grown in all USDA zones)
Native Area Central America (Mexico, Guatemala)
Creeping Zinnia Care
Creeping zinnia is an exceedingly easy plant to grow in a full-sun or partial shade location in moderately fertile soil, provided it gets sufficient water. It thrives in summer conditions and won't shrivel up even in the face of high temperatures and humidity. Creeping zinnia requires regular watering but does not tolerate soggy conditions.
Creeping zinnia is often planted in spring from potted nursery plants after the soil has fully warmed in the spring and nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Loosen the soil thoroughly, adding organic amendments such as peat moss or compost, if necessary. Plant so the top of the root ball is at the soil level.
Many people, however, prefer to direct sow seeds in the precise locations where they want plants to grow, since creeping zinnias may react badly to transplanting. Direct-sown seeds are usually planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring.
Sunlight
Creeping zinnia will grow well in full sun or partial shade conditions, but its true flowering potential depends on direct sun for six to eight hours per day. In spots that receive just four to six hours of sun, these plants will generally fare fine but won’t have the same abundant blooms
Soil
These plants can tolerate a range of soil types, including average to relatively fertile, humus-rich conditions. However, creeping zinnia requires that soil drains well. Otherwise, its roots can become waterlogged and rot.
Water
While creeping zinnia enjoys hot weather and tolerates periods of drought, don’t let this fool you into thinking that this plant won’t need regular watering. It’s important to keep the plant from becoming waterlogged, but it prefers consistently medium-moist soil conditions. For this reason, you might need to water these plants once or twice daily if grown in a container during stretches of dry weather. Aim for moist but well-aerated soil that dries out slightly between waterings, but don't allow the soil to become overly dry and crumbly.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot temperatures and high humidity will make creeping zinnia feel right at home. Native to Central American countries Mexico and Guatemala, these plants thrive when the temperature rises and won’t wilt in a hot climate. But they’re only moderately tolerant of cool weather and will fade and die once the average nightly temperature dips below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
For a healthy, abundantly-blooming plant, provide at least moderately fertile soil conditions. Creeping zinnia doesn’t have overly specific or substantial nutritional needs, but if the soil you plant it in is less than average, you might need to use organic or a balanced conventional fertilizer.
Creeping zinnia planted in containers or pots often benefits from a slow-release fertilizer or a periodic application of liquid fertilizer to support the overall growth and health of the plant.
Types of Creeping Zinnia
There are more than a dozen named cultivars of creeping zinnia, mostly bred to exhibit small variations in flower shape and color or differences in foliage. Consider these recommendations:
‘Sprite’ series features semi-double flowers in shades of orange and yellow with dark brown centers. Plants are 10 to 12 inches tall.
‘Gold Braid’ is a profuse bloomer with golden-yellow flowers with dark brown centers.
‘Irish Eyes’ has orange-yellow flowers with green centers. Plants are a compact 6 inches in height.
‘Mandarin Orange’ features double flowers that are a deep, rich orange with dark brown center disks, closely resembling miniature sunflowers.
Pruning
Deadhead the spent flowers regularly to keep the plants looking neat and to promote continued blooming. Stems that become too long can be clipped back to keep the plants nicely compact.
Propagating Creeping Zinnia
Creeping zinnia can be propagated in several ways: from seeds collected from the flower heads; by dividing the rootball into separate sections for replanting; or by taking stem clipping to root in a growing medium. In commercial settings, it is normally propagated by seed, since the plant is not fond of being transplanted. But home gardeners often use the stem-cutting method to propagate new plants indoors over the winter, thereby keeping favorite plants alive. Here's how to do it:
As the weather begins to cool in fall, use sharp pruners to clip 6- to 8-inch stem cuttings from healthy, actively growing plants. Remove any flowers and flower buds, and also remove the leaves from the bottom 2 inches of each cutting.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then plant the cutting in a 4-inch pot filled with a seed-starter mix or standard potting soil.
Place the pot inside a loosely secured clear plastic bag, and set it in a location with bright, indirect light. Inspect the pot every few days and water lightly if the potting medium begins to dry out.
Check for root development every week or so by tugging gently on the stem. When you begin to feel resistance, it means the cutting has developed roots.
When an ample network of roots has developed, remove the pot from the plastic covering and continue to grow it in a warm, sunny location. The plant can continue to grow indoors until spring. Plant it outdoors once nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
.
How to Grow Creeping Zinnia From Seed
Starting creeping zinnia from seed isn't very complicated, but be aware these plants don't always tolerate being transplanted. For best results, consider direct-sowing seeds in the location where you want to grow them rather than in starter trays. The seeds are relatively easy to collect from individual spent blooms, though the small size of the flower heads might make it somewhat tedious work. They store well over the winter and can be planted in the spring.
These seeds require sunlight to germinate, so don't bury them under a layer of soil. Instead, lightly press them into the soil surface or loosely cover them with peat moss. Water them daily and keep the soil moist for the seeds to germinate. It's always best to read the recommendations on the seed packet for specific sowing and care instructions.
Plants will bloom about 10 weeks after the seeds are sown. Many gardeners seeking the earliest possible garden bloom like to start them indoors about two to three weeks before the expected last frost date.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Zinnia
The low growing habit and abundant blooms of creeping zinnia make it a great option for container culture. These plants will fill the container, window box, or another planter with small, beautiful blooms all summer long. Keep in mind that to grow these plants successfully in containers, you'll need to ensure that they have adequate drainage. Use a quality loose and lightweight potting mix to ensure the roots don't become saturated with too much water.
Container-grown plants typically need more feeding than garden plants, mostly because the frequent watering quickly leaches nutrients from the potting medium. You might find it necessary to provide supplemental fertilizer for creeping zinnias grown in containers. Time-released or granular fertilizer pellets or a balanced liquid formula will generally give these plants a needed boost if they are not blooming as heavily as you want.
Overwintering
These frost-tender plants are normally just pulled up and discarded at the end of the growing season. If left in place, though, birds will arrive to pluck at the dried flowers for their edible seeds.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
These sturdy little plants have no notable pests and diseases to worry about. But like almost any garden plant, creeping zinnia may occasionally be troubled by minor fungal leaf spots or powdery mildew. You can minimize these problems with careful watering by ground-level soaking rather than overhead spraying.
How to Get Creeping Zinnia to Bloom
The general prescription for good blooms with creeping zinnia is to make sure they have plenty of water and sun—that's usually all it takes. In most situations, these plants will bloom vigorously all summer long—right up until cool fall weather sets in. In addition:
Regular deadheading of spent flowers will prompt continued blooms.
Long, leggy stems can be cut back to force denser growth and more flowers.
Container-grown creeping zinnias may benefit from extra feeding. However, with garden plants already growing in suitably fertile soil, too much fertilizer tends to make for long leggy stems that don't produce as many flowers.
Common Problems With Creeping Zinnia
Although they are largely trouble-free, creeping zinnias may cause gardeners concern about these symptoms:
Seedlings Die Immediately After Planting
Even with potted nursery starts, transplanting creeping zinnias should be done very carefully so as to avoid disturbance of the roots. These plants often resent being moved, so treat them with kid gloves to make sure they survive transplanting into the garden. Some gardeners prefer to direct-sow the seeds in the exact locations where they want the plants to grow to avoid this problem.
Plants Have Become Sparse
When growing in fertile soil or when given a lot of fertilizer, creeping zinnias can develop long, leggy stems that are somewhat bare except at the tips. These leggy stems can be aggressively cut back to near the base of the plant, which will stimulate new growth and cause the plant to become fuller and bushier.
FAQ
How should I use creeping zinnia in the landscape?
Creeping zinnias are often used as foreground bedding or edging plants in sunny border gardens, or in sunny rock gardens. Planted over large open sunny areas, they can make a colorful seasonal ground cover. They are also a very dependable plant for window boxes, hanging baskets, and large mixed patio/deck container gardens.
Do creeping zinnias self-seed in the garden?
Yes, if the flower heads are left on the plant, the tiny seeds often fall into the soil and take root. But these volunteers are not easy to dig up and move, so it's best to leave them in place to colonize. A small patch of creeping zinnias can be self-sustaining from year to year if you live some flower heads in place to drop seed and produce volunteers the following spring.
Are there any standard zinnias that have this creeping, trailing habit?
Most standard zinnias are upright plants, though some are quite short. But for a trailing habit similar to that of the creeping zinnia, try one of the cultivars of Zinnia augustifolea (spreading zinnia). They will have a similar growth habit to creeping zinnia, but they offer a considerably wider range of flower colors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月21日
IN THIS ARTICLE
Care
Pruning
Propagating
Growing From Seed
Potting and Repotting
Overwintering
Bloom
Common Problems
Frequently Asked Questions
BACK TO TOP
Creeping speedwell is a spreading perennial ground cover plant adorned with dainty flowers. Veronica filiformis is a trailing perennial that only reaches up to 5 inches in height and produces small, singular flowers. The blooms are composed of four rounded petals seen in shades of pink, purple or blue and appear in the spring and summer. The foliage is scallop-shaped and is evergreen in warm areas.
These plants spread quickly, creating mats that can reach up to 30 inches wide. This spreading nature, though good for covering large areas, can spread outside of their intended growing areas. The species is considered an invasive weed in some areas.1
Common Name Creeping Speedwell, Slender Speedwell
Botanical Name Veronica filiformis
Family Plantaginaceae
Plant Type Perennial, groundcover
Mature Size 2-5 in. tall, 20-30 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Pink, blue, purple
Hardiness Zones 3-9, USA
Native Area Europe, Asia
Creeping Speedwell Care
Creeping speedwell is very easy to care for and is often found growing wild in lawns, fields, or meadows. It is quite hardy and handles mowing and foot traffic well. In fact, cut pieces blown by a mower easily take root, spreading the plant further. These plants make excellent additions to rock gardens or around pathways.
Creeping speedwell are deer and rabbit resistant. They are susceptible to root rot or other fungal problems if the soil is kept too wet.2 Take note that the dense mats created by the plants may harbor ticks and fleas.
Because of its hardy nature and rapid spread, creeping speedwell is considered invasive in some areas. For example, according to the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health, Veronica filiformis is considered invasive in the state of West Virginia.1 Be sure to do thorough research before planting this species in your area.
Light
Creeping speedwell can be grown in both full sun and shade. However, full sun can be too intense for creeping speedwell when it is grown in warm climates. Plants grown in full shade often do not flower well. For the best growth and bloom, it is ideal to plant creeping speedwell in an area with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Soil
Creeping speedwell is a hardy plant frequently found growing in lawns, fields, and meadows. It prefers loamy, sandy, well-draining, and moist soil, but can also tolerate some clay. These plants grow best in soil with a neutral pH level, though they can tolerate slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils.
Water
Once established, creeping speedwell is considered drought-tolerant. To avoid problems with soggy soil, only water these plants when the top inch or so of the soil begins to dry out. For young, newly planted speedwells, it is best to water more often until they are established. An inch of water per week is plenty to keep established plants healthy.
Temperature and Humidity
This groundcover plant is adaptable to a wide range of temperature and humidity levels, as long as it is grown within USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9. Keep in mind that the plant will remain evergreen in warm weather climates, but not in places where more seasonal changes in temperature are expected.
Fertilizer
Creeping speedwell is a light feeder and can even be grown in poor soil conditions, so regular fertilizing is not necessary. However, you can work compost or a well-balanced fertilizer into the soil in early spring if you want to ensure the plant receives needed nutrients.
Pruning
Pruning is not necessary, though it may be desired to keep the plant from spreading. Simply trim the plant with garden snips to do this. For large areas of creeping speedwell used as ground cover, a lawnmower is the best way to make quick work of the job. However, if you do not want the pruned pieces to take root, it is best to use a collection bag when mowing these plants.
Stop pruning in late summer, especially for plants grown in areas with cold winters. This allows the plants to create enough mature foliage to be protected through the winter. Pruning too late in the year will result in new growth that is too tender to survive the winter.
Propagating Creeping Speedwell
The spreading nature of creeping speedwell makes these plants easy to propagate. It can be accomplished by means of division, cuttings, or layering.
Division is a great option for plants whose centers begin to look bare or scraggly. To divide the plant, you will need a garden shovel, a hand shovel, a pair of snips, and a pair of gardening gloves. Then follow these instructions:
In early spring, use the garden shovel to gently dig around the plant, loosening the roots. Do this until the plant and its root system can be lifted from the ground.
Gently lift the plant out of the ground.
Using the shovels and the snips, divide the plant into however many sections you wish. Just be sure each section has healthy foliage and roots. Discard any bare areas.
Plant each section in its desired location.
To take cuttings, you will need a sharp pair of snips, moist, well-drained soil, and a small pot. Then follow these instructions:
Using the snips, cut a stem below a leaf node. Trim a section that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Bury the stripped end into moist soil. Make sure several nodes are buried, as this is where roots will form.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Place the cuttings in bright, indirect light until roots form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the cutting. If there is resistance, roots have formed. Once this happens, harden the cutting off and move it to its permanent location.
To layer, you will need a pair of garden gloves, a hand shovel, and a pair of snips. Then follow these instructions:
Find a node along the stem where you would like to propagate the plant.
Bury the node in the soil. Wait a few weeks for roots to form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the buried node. Resistance means that roots have formed. At this point you may leave the node in place or cut the stem connecting it to the rest of the plant and dig up the new root system, planting it where you wish.
How to Grow Creeping Speedwell From Seed
Creeping speedwell can also be grown from seeds, started either indoors and outdoors. For indoor growth, start the seeds eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. You will need small pots, bright, indirect lighting, and a moist, well-draining seed starting mix, such as a peat moss mixture. Then follow these instructions:
Fill the pots with the seed starting mix and dampen the mixture.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds onto the damp mixture and gently press them onto it. Do not bury them as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Keep the soil consistently moist.
Once the threat of frost is gone, harden off your seedlings. Then plant them into their permanent garden spaces.
To start seeds outdoors, follow these instructions:
Wait until the threat of frost is gone, then clear the area of weeds and work in organic material, such as compost. It is best to choose a spot that is protected from wind, as the seeds are very small and can be blown about.
Lightly sprinkle the seeds across the soil and gently tap them onto the soil to settle them in place. Do not bury them, as they need light to germinate.
Keep the soil moist as the seeds germinate and sprout. Once the plants become larger and more established, slowly reduce watering.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Speedwell
An easy way to contain creeping speedwell is by growing it in a pot. When choosing a container, be sure it has free-flowing drainage holes, as soggy soil can cause fungal problems. Since creeping speedwell will spread and fill the pot, at some point you will need to divide the plant or place it in a larger pot. When this time comes, tip the pot onto its side and tap it on all sides in order to loosen the roots. Slide the plant out when possible and either place it into a larger pot with loamy, well-draining soil, or divide the plant with a shovel or a pair of snips.
Overwintering
When grown in its appropriate growing zones, creeping speedwell does not require extra attention to survive the winter. Just be sure the soil does not get too wet, as this can lead to problems that may kill off the plant. If the winter is especially wet, you may want to cover the plant with plastic to keep some of the water out.
How to Get Creeping Speedwell to Bloom
Creeping speedwells produce small, four-petaled flowers seen in blue, purple, and pink. They often have white centers. Unlike other species of Veronica plants, creeping speedwell produces one flower per stalk as opposed to a spiky raceme covered in flowers. Still, these tiny flowers are attractive to pollinators such as butterflies and bees.
Because of their hardy nature, creeping speedwells do not often need much help to bloom. To encourage blooming, be sure to choose a planting spot that receives a few hours of sunlight each day. An area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Deadheading spent flower blooms will encourage more flowers to form.
Common Problems With Creeping Speedwell
Creeping speedwell is a very hardy plant and does not present many problems. In fact, it is more likely to challenge the gardener with problems of overgrowth. However, even extremely hardy plants may occasionally face problems. The biggest issues for creeping speedwell plants occur when the soil is too wet or too dry, manifesting in the form of wilting, soggy, or yellowing foliage.
Wilting Foliage
This is often seen in hot climates where the soil dries out quickly. If this is the case, try to plant your creeping speedwell in an area that receives afternoon shade. Increase the amount of water and frequency of watering times to ensure the plant receives enough.
Soggy, Wilting, and Yellowing Foliage
This is a sign of too much water and may point to root rot.2 If this is the case, cut back on watering and only water when the first inch or so of the soil is dry. If root rot is suspected, dig up the plant and cut away any infected roots and foliage. Amend the soil with a well-draining material such as sand or compost before replanting.
FAQ
Is creeping speedwell invasive?
Creeping speedwell is considered to be an invasive weed in some areas.1 Even in areas where it is not technically considered invasive, this plant has invasive qualities and can quickly spread outside its intended growing area.
Is creeping speedwell a perennial?
Yes, creeping speedwell is a perennial flowering plant. In areas with warm winters, this ground cover plant is also an evergreen.
How fast does creeping speedwell grow?
This ground cover is a fast grower and a quick spreader. This rapid growth makes containing the plant an important consideration for most gardeners.
Care
Pruning
Propagating
Growing From Seed
Potting and Repotting
Overwintering
Bloom
Common Problems
Frequently Asked Questions
BACK TO TOP
Creeping speedwell is a spreading perennial ground cover plant adorned with dainty flowers. Veronica filiformis is a trailing perennial that only reaches up to 5 inches in height and produces small, singular flowers. The blooms are composed of four rounded petals seen in shades of pink, purple or blue and appear in the spring and summer. The foliage is scallop-shaped and is evergreen in warm areas.
These plants spread quickly, creating mats that can reach up to 30 inches wide. This spreading nature, though good for covering large areas, can spread outside of their intended growing areas. The species is considered an invasive weed in some areas.1
Common Name Creeping Speedwell, Slender Speedwell
Botanical Name Veronica filiformis
Family Plantaginaceae
Plant Type Perennial, groundcover
Mature Size 2-5 in. tall, 20-30 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, clay, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Pink, blue, purple
Hardiness Zones 3-9, USA
Native Area Europe, Asia
Creeping Speedwell Care
Creeping speedwell is very easy to care for and is often found growing wild in lawns, fields, or meadows. It is quite hardy and handles mowing and foot traffic well. In fact, cut pieces blown by a mower easily take root, spreading the plant further. These plants make excellent additions to rock gardens or around pathways.
Creeping speedwell are deer and rabbit resistant. They are susceptible to root rot or other fungal problems if the soil is kept too wet.2 Take note that the dense mats created by the plants may harbor ticks and fleas.
Because of its hardy nature and rapid spread, creeping speedwell is considered invasive in some areas. For example, according to the Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health, Veronica filiformis is considered invasive in the state of West Virginia.1 Be sure to do thorough research before planting this species in your area.
Light
Creeping speedwell can be grown in both full sun and shade. However, full sun can be too intense for creeping speedwell when it is grown in warm climates. Plants grown in full shade often do not flower well. For the best growth and bloom, it is ideal to plant creeping speedwell in an area with partial shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Soil
Creeping speedwell is a hardy plant frequently found growing in lawns, fields, and meadows. It prefers loamy, sandy, well-draining, and moist soil, but can also tolerate some clay. These plants grow best in soil with a neutral pH level, though they can tolerate slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soils.
Water
Once established, creeping speedwell is considered drought-tolerant. To avoid problems with soggy soil, only water these plants when the top inch or so of the soil begins to dry out. For young, newly planted speedwells, it is best to water more often until they are established. An inch of water per week is plenty to keep established plants healthy.
Temperature and Humidity
This groundcover plant is adaptable to a wide range of temperature and humidity levels, as long as it is grown within USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9. Keep in mind that the plant will remain evergreen in warm weather climates, but not in places where more seasonal changes in temperature are expected.
Fertilizer
Creeping speedwell is a light feeder and can even be grown in poor soil conditions, so regular fertilizing is not necessary. However, you can work compost or a well-balanced fertilizer into the soil in early spring if you want to ensure the plant receives needed nutrients.
Pruning
Pruning is not necessary, though it may be desired to keep the plant from spreading. Simply trim the plant with garden snips to do this. For large areas of creeping speedwell used as ground cover, a lawnmower is the best way to make quick work of the job. However, if you do not want the pruned pieces to take root, it is best to use a collection bag when mowing these plants.
Stop pruning in late summer, especially for plants grown in areas with cold winters. This allows the plants to create enough mature foliage to be protected through the winter. Pruning too late in the year will result in new growth that is too tender to survive the winter.
Propagating Creeping Speedwell
The spreading nature of creeping speedwell makes these plants easy to propagate. It can be accomplished by means of division, cuttings, or layering.
Division is a great option for plants whose centers begin to look bare or scraggly. To divide the plant, you will need a garden shovel, a hand shovel, a pair of snips, and a pair of gardening gloves. Then follow these instructions:
In early spring, use the garden shovel to gently dig around the plant, loosening the roots. Do this until the plant and its root system can be lifted from the ground.
Gently lift the plant out of the ground.
Using the shovels and the snips, divide the plant into however many sections you wish. Just be sure each section has healthy foliage and roots. Discard any bare areas.
Plant each section in its desired location.
To take cuttings, you will need a sharp pair of snips, moist, well-drained soil, and a small pot. Then follow these instructions:
Using the snips, cut a stem below a leaf node. Trim a section that is around 6 inches long.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Bury the stripped end into moist soil. Make sure several nodes are buried, as this is where roots will form.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Place the cuttings in bright, indirect light until roots form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the cutting. If there is resistance, roots have formed. Once this happens, harden the cutting off and move it to its permanent location.
To layer, you will need a pair of garden gloves, a hand shovel, and a pair of snips. Then follow these instructions:
Find a node along the stem where you would like to propagate the plant.
Bury the node in the soil. Wait a few weeks for roots to form.
Check for roots by gently tugging on the buried node. Resistance means that roots have formed. At this point you may leave the node in place or cut the stem connecting it to the rest of the plant and dig up the new root system, planting it where you wish.
How to Grow Creeping Speedwell From Seed
Creeping speedwell can also be grown from seeds, started either indoors and outdoors. For indoor growth, start the seeds eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. You will need small pots, bright, indirect lighting, and a moist, well-draining seed starting mix, such as a peat moss mixture. Then follow these instructions:
Fill the pots with the seed starting mix and dampen the mixture.
Lightly sprinkle the tiny seeds onto the damp mixture and gently press them onto it. Do not bury them as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Keep the soil consistently moist.
Once the threat of frost is gone, harden off your seedlings. Then plant them into their permanent garden spaces.
To start seeds outdoors, follow these instructions:
Wait until the threat of frost is gone, then clear the area of weeds and work in organic material, such as compost. It is best to choose a spot that is protected from wind, as the seeds are very small and can be blown about.
Lightly sprinkle the seeds across the soil and gently tap them onto the soil to settle them in place. Do not bury them, as they need light to germinate.
Keep the soil moist as the seeds germinate and sprout. Once the plants become larger and more established, slowly reduce watering.
Potting and Repotting Creeping Speedwell
An easy way to contain creeping speedwell is by growing it in a pot. When choosing a container, be sure it has free-flowing drainage holes, as soggy soil can cause fungal problems. Since creeping speedwell will spread and fill the pot, at some point you will need to divide the plant or place it in a larger pot. When this time comes, tip the pot onto its side and tap it on all sides in order to loosen the roots. Slide the plant out when possible and either place it into a larger pot with loamy, well-draining soil, or divide the plant with a shovel or a pair of snips.
Overwintering
When grown in its appropriate growing zones, creeping speedwell does not require extra attention to survive the winter. Just be sure the soil does not get too wet, as this can lead to problems that may kill off the plant. If the winter is especially wet, you may want to cover the plant with plastic to keep some of the water out.
How to Get Creeping Speedwell to Bloom
Creeping speedwells produce small, four-petaled flowers seen in blue, purple, and pink. They often have white centers. Unlike other species of Veronica plants, creeping speedwell produces one flower per stalk as opposed to a spiky raceme covered in flowers. Still, these tiny flowers are attractive to pollinators such as butterflies and bees.
Because of their hardy nature, creeping speedwells do not often need much help to bloom. To encourage blooming, be sure to choose a planting spot that receives a few hours of sunlight each day. An area that receives morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Deadheading spent flower blooms will encourage more flowers to form.
Common Problems With Creeping Speedwell
Creeping speedwell is a very hardy plant and does not present many problems. In fact, it is more likely to challenge the gardener with problems of overgrowth. However, even extremely hardy plants may occasionally face problems. The biggest issues for creeping speedwell plants occur when the soil is too wet or too dry, manifesting in the form of wilting, soggy, or yellowing foliage.
Wilting Foliage
This is often seen in hot climates where the soil dries out quickly. If this is the case, try to plant your creeping speedwell in an area that receives afternoon shade. Increase the amount of water and frequency of watering times to ensure the plant receives enough.
Soggy, Wilting, and Yellowing Foliage
This is a sign of too much water and may point to root rot.2 If this is the case, cut back on watering and only water when the first inch or so of the soil is dry. If root rot is suspected, dig up the plant and cut away any infected roots and foliage. Amend the soil with a well-draining material such as sand or compost before replanting.
FAQ
Is creeping speedwell invasive?
Creeping speedwell is considered to be an invasive weed in some areas.1 Even in areas where it is not technically considered invasive, this plant has invasive qualities and can quickly spread outside its intended growing area.
Is creeping speedwell a perennial?
Yes, creeping speedwell is a perennial flowering plant. In areas with warm winters, this ground cover plant is also an evergreen.
How fast does creeping speedwell grow?
This ground cover is a fast grower and a quick spreader. This rapid growth makes containing the plant an important consideration for most gardeners.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月19日
Creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) is a low-growing, mat-forming plant that is often seen spreading as a ground cover, in rock gardens, and even in crevices of stone walls. It blooms in the late spring to summer with clusters of fragrant, five-petal flowers that stretch almost an inch across. These flowers tend to attract butterflies and other pollinators to a garden. And after they’re done blooming, the creeping phlox foliage still remains green and attractive for much of the year before dying back in the winter. Plant your creeping phlox in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. The plant has a moderate growth rate.
Common Name Creeping phlox, moss phlox, star rock phlox
Botanical Name Phlox stolonifera
Family Polemoniaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Purple, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 5–9, USA
Native Area North America
Creeping Phlox Care
Creeping phlox is a fairly low-maintenance plant. It requires watering if you have a week or two without rainfall, along with an annual feeding. Plus, mature plants might need a bit of pruning maintenance to keep them looking tidy unless you'd like for your phlox to naturally spread and blanket a large area.
As with many ground covers, grass and weeds growing up through the phlox can be a nuisance. And they will compete with your phlox for soil nutrients and moisture. It's best to start managing weeds early in the spring before the phlox blooms and its foliage is at its fullest. Hand-pulling is the most effective method for removing weeds. If you let the weeds get out of control, it might be easiest to dig up the phlox (keeping its roots intact), clear the area of grass and weeds, and then replant the phlox.
Light
This plant grows best in full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can impede flower production.
Soil
Creeping phlox likes soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic soil pH but also can tolerate neutral and slightly alkaline soil. Moreover, it needs a well-drained soil.
Water
This plant requires a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants do have some drought tolerance. Unless you have rainfall, it will generally need watering weekly, especially during the heat of the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping phlox plants are fairly hardy in their growing zones. They tolerate heat well and can handle some frost, though prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can damage the plants. Moreover, humidity is typically not an issue for the plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing in the late winter or early spring will promote growth and support a more robust bloom for your creeping phlox. Feed it with a general slow-release fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, following label instructions.
Types of Creeping Phlox
There are many varieties of creeping phlox, including:
Phlox stolonifera ‘Fran’s Purple’: This phlox features deep green leaves and rich purple flowers.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: Bright pink flowers adorn this variety.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Pink Ridge’: This variety has flowers that are similar in color to ‘Home Fires’.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple’: Blue-purple flowers are featured on this plant.
Pruning
Pruning is optional on these plants. After the blooming period is over, you can trim back the foliage to create a neater form. This also will promote denser foliage, enhancing the phlox's beauty as a ground cover. Alternatively, you can skip the pruning and let the plants grow naturally.
Propagating Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox is best propagated via division. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to rejuvenate mature and overgrown phlox. Typically, you can divide a plant every two to three years without seriously weakening it. Here's how:
Dig up the entire plant immediately after it's done blooming, being careful to keep the root ball intact.
Cut through the roots with a sterile, sharp spade to divide them roughly in half.
Replant each half in an appropriate growing site, and water to lightly moisten the soil.
Common Pests
Creeping phlox is less susceptible to the powdery mildew that plagues other phlox species, but spider mites can be an issue is hot, dry climates. Insecticidal soaps are often helpful for this problem. Another option is to spray the plants regularly with a hard stream of water to dislodge the mites and keep them under control.
These plants also can be susceptible to foliar nematodes in wet, humid weather. Nematodes cause lesions on the leaves of the plants that turn brown and then black. These soil organisms are hard to control. So diseased plants must be removed and destroyed, and the ground should be kept clean of debris.
How to Get Creeping Phlox to Bloom
Creeping phlox will start blooming in the late spring to early summer, depending on its climate. And it will stay in bloom for several weeks with profuse clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers. The five-petal flowers have rounded, notched lobes, and they are overall fairly flat.
Proper light conditions and a regular fertilization schedule will encourage the best blooming on creeping phlox year after year. You do not need to deadhead these plants (remove the spent blooms), though in some cases this can extend the blooming period. Don't do any pruning on your phlox until it's done blooming to avoid removing the flower buds.
Common Problems
Creeping phlox isn't prone to many problems when grown in the conditions it likes. But an improper environment can result in some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing foliage can be a sign of multiple issues, including diseases. But often it's an environmental issue, especially too little light and overwatering. Watch your phlox throughout the day to make sure it's not being shaded for too long. And make sure it has adequate soil drainage. The plant might need to be moved if it's not in suitable conditions.
Poor Blooming
Environmental issues also can result in poor blooming on a creeping phlox plant, especially too little light. Also, the soil might be too high in nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth at the expense of flower buds. In addition, if flowering has diminished on a mature plant, that's often a sign it needs to be divided to become rejuvenated and bloom profusely again.
FAQ
Does creeping phlox like sun or shade?
Creeping phlox prefers full sun or partial shade, meaning at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Is creeping phlox easy to grow?
Creeping phlox is easy to grow and care for, requiring fairly regular watering and minimal feeding and pruning.
How fast does creeping phlox grow?
Creeping phlox has a moderate growth rate and will spread to form a mat over the ground.
Common Name Creeping phlox, moss phlox, star rock phlox
Botanical Name Phlox stolonifera
Family Polemoniaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–18 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Purple, pink, white
Hardiness Zones 5–9, USA
Native Area North America
Creeping Phlox Care
Creeping phlox is a fairly low-maintenance plant. It requires watering if you have a week or two without rainfall, along with an annual feeding. Plus, mature plants might need a bit of pruning maintenance to keep them looking tidy unless you'd like for your phlox to naturally spread and blanket a large area.
As with many ground covers, grass and weeds growing up through the phlox can be a nuisance. And they will compete with your phlox for soil nutrients and moisture. It's best to start managing weeds early in the spring before the phlox blooms and its foliage is at its fullest. Hand-pulling is the most effective method for removing weeds. If you let the weeds get out of control, it might be easiest to dig up the phlox (keeping its roots intact), clear the area of grass and weeds, and then replant the phlox.
Light
This plant grows best in full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can impede flower production.
Soil
Creeping phlox likes soil that is rich in organic matter. It prefers a slightly acidic soil pH but also can tolerate neutral and slightly alkaline soil. Moreover, it needs a well-drained soil.
Water
This plant requires a moderate amount of soil moisture, though mature plants do have some drought tolerance. Unless you have rainfall, it will generally need watering weekly, especially during the heat of the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Creeping phlox plants are fairly hardy in their growing zones. They tolerate heat well and can handle some frost, though prolonged exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can damage the plants. Moreover, humidity is typically not an issue for the plants.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing in the late winter or early spring will promote growth and support a more robust bloom for your creeping phlox. Feed it with a general slow-release fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, following label instructions.
Types of Creeping Phlox
There are many varieties of creeping phlox, including:
Phlox stolonifera ‘Fran’s Purple’: This phlox features deep green leaves and rich purple flowers.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Home Fires’: Bright pink flowers adorn this variety.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Pink Ridge’: This variety has flowers that are similar in color to ‘Home Fires’.
Phlox stolonifera ‘Sherwood Purple’: Blue-purple flowers are featured on this plant.
Pruning
Pruning is optional on these plants. After the blooming period is over, you can trim back the foliage to create a neater form. This also will promote denser foliage, enhancing the phlox's beauty as a ground cover. Alternatively, you can skip the pruning and let the plants grow naturally.
Propagating Creeping Phlox
Creeping phlox is best propagated via division. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to rejuvenate mature and overgrown phlox. Typically, you can divide a plant every two to three years without seriously weakening it. Here's how:
Dig up the entire plant immediately after it's done blooming, being careful to keep the root ball intact.
Cut through the roots with a sterile, sharp spade to divide them roughly in half.
Replant each half in an appropriate growing site, and water to lightly moisten the soil.
Common Pests
Creeping phlox is less susceptible to the powdery mildew that plagues other phlox species, but spider mites can be an issue is hot, dry climates. Insecticidal soaps are often helpful for this problem. Another option is to spray the plants regularly with a hard stream of water to dislodge the mites and keep them under control.
These plants also can be susceptible to foliar nematodes in wet, humid weather. Nematodes cause lesions on the leaves of the plants that turn brown and then black. These soil organisms are hard to control. So diseased plants must be removed and destroyed, and the ground should be kept clean of debris.
How to Get Creeping Phlox to Bloom
Creeping phlox will start blooming in the late spring to early summer, depending on its climate. And it will stay in bloom for several weeks with profuse clusters of sweetly fragrant flowers. The five-petal flowers have rounded, notched lobes, and they are overall fairly flat.
Proper light conditions and a regular fertilization schedule will encourage the best blooming on creeping phlox year after year. You do not need to deadhead these plants (remove the spent blooms), though in some cases this can extend the blooming period. Don't do any pruning on your phlox until it's done blooming to avoid removing the flower buds.
Common Problems
Creeping phlox isn't prone to many problems when grown in the conditions it likes. But an improper environment can result in some common issues.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellowing foliage can be a sign of multiple issues, including diseases. But often it's an environmental issue, especially too little light and overwatering. Watch your phlox throughout the day to make sure it's not being shaded for too long. And make sure it has adequate soil drainage. The plant might need to be moved if it's not in suitable conditions.
Poor Blooming
Environmental issues also can result in poor blooming on a creeping phlox plant, especially too little light. Also, the soil might be too high in nitrogen, which promotes foliage growth at the expense of flower buds. In addition, if flowering has diminished on a mature plant, that's often a sign it needs to be divided to become rejuvenated and bloom profusely again.
FAQ
Does creeping phlox like sun or shade?
Creeping phlox prefers full sun or partial shade, meaning at least roughly four hours of direct sunlight on most days.
Is creeping phlox easy to grow?
Creeping phlox is easy to grow and care for, requiring fairly regular watering and minimal feeding and pruning.
How fast does creeping phlox grow?
Creeping phlox has a moderate growth rate and will spread to form a mat over the ground.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月10日
The golden marguerite is a plant by many names. Sometimes referred to by its botanical name, Anthemis tinctorial, its common name is cota tinctoria. But this daisy-like perennial is also known as the golden marguerite—with marguerite being the French term for daisy. In addition, you might hear it referred to as yellow chamomile, since it’s a member of the same family (Anthemis) but unlike chamomile with its white petals, this species produces blossoms with deep yellow petals and similarly yellow disc flowers (what is referred to as the center of the bloom). The foliage is finely textured and has a faint aroma, similar to that of the more common varieties of chamomile.
Golden marguerite flowers make a pretty addition to bouquets or look fabulous displayed in vase arrangements. The long stems (up to 2 feet tall) make them easy to cut and enjoy. These flowering plants are native to the warmer southern region of Europe, but are frequently found in North America where they enjoy temperate climates but struggle in the hot, humid weather of the southern regions of the United States.
Botanical Name Anthemis tinctoria
Common Name Cota tinctoria, golden marguerite, yellow chamomile
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 1.5 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average to dry
Soil pH Neutral to alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 7
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Potentially toxic to cats, dogs, and horses based on toxicity of other anthemis varieties
How to Grow Golden Marguerite
To successfully grow golden marguerite, be sure to understand the plant’s preferences on light, water, and nutrients. Some factors, like soil conditions and pH, the plant is more ambivalent on. But to produce a bounty of bright, beautiful blooms, these plants demand plenty of sunshine, need to be kept moist but not overwatered, and will suffer if force fed too many nutrients through supplemental fertilizer. Pests are not a frequent concern, but you might find that aphids, slugs, or snails show up to snack on the foliage of golden marguerite plants.
Light
Golden marguerite is a sun-loving perennial, so it does best in a garden location that receives full sun. Ideally, locate this plant in a sunny spot that receives at least 6 or more hours of direct sunlight each day. The plant may also tolerate part shade conditions, but it is not suited to spots with full shade.
Soil
When it comes to soil conditions, this plant will often grow where other varieities may struggle. It tolerates soil with average or even poor nutrients, and can grow in dry or sandy soil conditions. It does best with neutral to alkaline pH levels, and can handle environmental salts and urban pollution.
Golden marguerite needs loose, well-draining soil. It does fine with loam, sandy, or even chalky soil conditions. However, it will not grow well in heavy, clay type soils.
Water
One of the benefits of this plant is that it has proven to be drought-tolerant. This makes it a good choice if your garden experiences stretches of dry weather or you are a forgetful waterer. However, golden marguerite will thrive and produce the most abundant flora and foliage with regular watering. Maintain correct soil moisture by letting the ground around the plant dry out in between watering sessions.
Temperature and Humidity
One of the strongest attributes of cota tinctorial is its tolerance for drought—but don’t start thinking that this plant prefers hot and humid climates. Such conditions often lead to a short-lived perennial plant, since the golden marguerite has a preference for more temperate climates.
Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, this plant will even display an evergreen nature in climates with a mild winter.
Fertilizer
These plants tolerate average, or even poor soil conditions, so fertilizer is generally not required. In fact, soil that is too rich in nutrients can produce leggy plants that struggle to stand erect. For this reason, it’s generally advisable to skip fertilizing golden marguerite plants.
Propagating Golden Marguerite
If enjoy the fragrant nature and bright blooms of this plant, you can spread it to new areas of your landscaping or share it with friends through propagation.
Propagation by division and seed are the two most simple methods of turning one golden marguerite plant into many. In fact, the growth rate and habits of these plants will often demand division every two years or so—making it a natural time to propagate. The ideal time to propagate by division is in the spring, before the growing season begins in earnest.
To propagate golden marguerite by seed, start by collecting seeds from spent blossoms. Start the seeds indoors using grower trays and a soil medium designed for seed germination. The seeds will take between 2 weeks and a month to germinate, at which point you can transplant them to a location in your garden if the last frost has occurred. Otherwise, continue to cultivate indoors until the danger of frost is past.
For propagation by division, dig up the plant with its root system. Set the plant on the ground and use your shovel or other sharp-edged gardening tool to cut the parent plant into several equal portions that include a portion of the roots and foliage. The new individual plants can be transplanted to new locations where they should be generously watered.
Varieties of Golden Marguerite
Cota tinctoria ‘Kelwayi’: This cultivar of golden marguerite looks very similar in appearance, but does offer slightly larger blooms—typically measuring 2 inches in diameter compared to the approximately 1-inch flower head of the conventional golden marguerite. The increased blossom size might make it a good option if you’re primarily thinking of using this plant in a cutting garden for fresh flowers to display in your home or bouquets.
Pruning
The best practice for abundantly blooming golden marguerite plants is to deadhead the blossoms. Doing so can encourage the plant to produce fresh new blooms and may well keep it vibrant into early fall. In late fall or early winter, you can cut back the dead growth to ensure a fresh, healthy start to the plant’s spring growth.
Golden marguerite flowers make a pretty addition to bouquets or look fabulous displayed in vase arrangements. The long stems (up to 2 feet tall) make them easy to cut and enjoy. These flowering plants are native to the warmer southern region of Europe, but are frequently found in North America where they enjoy temperate climates but struggle in the hot, humid weather of the southern regions of the United States.
Botanical Name Anthemis tinctoria
Common Name Cota tinctoria, golden marguerite, yellow chamomile
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 1.5 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Average to dry
Soil pH Neutral to alkaline
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 7
Native Area Europe
Toxicity Potentially toxic to cats, dogs, and horses based on toxicity of other anthemis varieties
How to Grow Golden Marguerite
To successfully grow golden marguerite, be sure to understand the plant’s preferences on light, water, and nutrients. Some factors, like soil conditions and pH, the plant is more ambivalent on. But to produce a bounty of bright, beautiful blooms, these plants demand plenty of sunshine, need to be kept moist but not overwatered, and will suffer if force fed too many nutrients through supplemental fertilizer. Pests are not a frequent concern, but you might find that aphids, slugs, or snails show up to snack on the foliage of golden marguerite plants.
Light
Golden marguerite is a sun-loving perennial, so it does best in a garden location that receives full sun. Ideally, locate this plant in a sunny spot that receives at least 6 or more hours of direct sunlight each day. The plant may also tolerate part shade conditions, but it is not suited to spots with full shade.
Soil
When it comes to soil conditions, this plant will often grow where other varieities may struggle. It tolerates soil with average or even poor nutrients, and can grow in dry or sandy soil conditions. It does best with neutral to alkaline pH levels, and can handle environmental salts and urban pollution.
Golden marguerite needs loose, well-draining soil. It does fine with loam, sandy, or even chalky soil conditions. However, it will not grow well in heavy, clay type soils.
Water
One of the benefits of this plant is that it has proven to be drought-tolerant. This makes it a good choice if your garden experiences stretches of dry weather or you are a forgetful waterer. However, golden marguerite will thrive and produce the most abundant flora and foliage with regular watering. Maintain correct soil moisture by letting the ground around the plant dry out in between watering sessions.
Temperature and Humidity
One of the strongest attributes of cota tinctorial is its tolerance for drought—but don’t start thinking that this plant prefers hot and humid climates. Such conditions often lead to a short-lived perennial plant, since the golden marguerite has a preference for more temperate climates.
Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7, this plant will even display an evergreen nature in climates with a mild winter.
Fertilizer
These plants tolerate average, or even poor soil conditions, so fertilizer is generally not required. In fact, soil that is too rich in nutrients can produce leggy plants that struggle to stand erect. For this reason, it’s generally advisable to skip fertilizing golden marguerite plants.
Propagating Golden Marguerite
If enjoy the fragrant nature and bright blooms of this plant, you can spread it to new areas of your landscaping or share it with friends through propagation.
Propagation by division and seed are the two most simple methods of turning one golden marguerite plant into many. In fact, the growth rate and habits of these plants will often demand division every two years or so—making it a natural time to propagate. The ideal time to propagate by division is in the spring, before the growing season begins in earnest.
To propagate golden marguerite by seed, start by collecting seeds from spent blossoms. Start the seeds indoors using grower trays and a soil medium designed for seed germination. The seeds will take between 2 weeks and a month to germinate, at which point you can transplant them to a location in your garden if the last frost has occurred. Otherwise, continue to cultivate indoors until the danger of frost is past.
For propagation by division, dig up the plant with its root system. Set the plant on the ground and use your shovel or other sharp-edged gardening tool to cut the parent plant into several equal portions that include a portion of the roots and foliage. The new individual plants can be transplanted to new locations where they should be generously watered.
Varieties of Golden Marguerite
Cota tinctoria ‘Kelwayi’: This cultivar of golden marguerite looks very similar in appearance, but does offer slightly larger blooms—typically measuring 2 inches in diameter compared to the approximately 1-inch flower head of the conventional golden marguerite. The increased blossom size might make it a good option if you’re primarily thinking of using this plant in a cutting garden for fresh flowers to display in your home or bouquets.
Pruning
The best practice for abundantly blooming golden marguerite plants is to deadhead the blossoms. Doing so can encourage the plant to produce fresh new blooms and may well keep it vibrant into early fall. In late fall or early winter, you can cut back the dead growth to ensure a fresh, healthy start to the plant’s spring growth.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月28日
Cordyline, or ti, is a common decorative plant that thrives outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 12, but it also makes an excellent houseplant with its long, spikey leaves. Cordyline typically has leathery leaves in a variety of colors, including green, red, yellow, white, purple, and purplish-red.
Some species in this group have fragrant flowers followed by berries. The moderate-growing plant will produce white, pink, or pale lavender flowers that are cup-shaped and sweet-smelling. They bloom in early summer and then small berries will appear after the flowers. It's more typical for flowering to occur in outdoor varieties, but flowers can appear on houseplants. If you plant cordyline outside, do so in the spring. This plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Cordyline, Hawaiian ti plant, good luck plant
Botanical Name Cordyline terminalis
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full-sun, partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, 6-6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9-12 (USDA)
Native Area Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia
Toxicity Highly toxic to dogs and cats
Cordyline Care
Tropical cordyline is a hardy plant if you grow it in the right climate. Its many varieties are colorful and cheery, and it's an attractive low-maintenance evergreen shrub. Ti will bring color to both your indoor or outdoor garden, and it's very easy to maintain.
The name Cordyline originates from Greek; the word kordyle, meaning "club," is a reference to the plant's vigorous root system. If you've planted cordyline outdoors in a raised garden bed, the root system can sometimes grow so large it may disrupt surrounding plants.
Light
Ti needs bright light, but avoid direct sunlight in unhabituated plants. Also, green-leaved cordyline tends to do best with direct light, while those with other colored leaves may prefer bright indirect or filtered sunlight.
Soil
Cordyline needs a rich, well-drained high-quality potting mix with a pH of 6-6.5.
Water
Ti plants prefer to be watered when the surface of its soil feels dry. Water until it starts to run out of the drainage holes. Do not put the drained water back into the plant.
Fertilizer
These plants can be fed in the spring with slow-release pellets. You can feed the plant weekly during the growing season with a liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer at half-strength. Do not fertilize during the winter.
Temperature and Humidity
Ti thrives in temperatures above 62 degrees Fahrenheit and prefers a high humidity environment. Avoid putting the plant near a cold draft like a window. These are tropical plants, so if you're experiencing leaf drop, try raising both the temperature and humidity.
Types of Cordyline
'C. australis': resembles the yucca plant with narrow, long, and grayish to dark leaves
'Calypso Queen': boasts ruby-maroon leaves
'Oahu Rainbow': shows off dark-green leaves streaked with cream and white
'Firebrand': offers beautiful pink leaves that darken to maroon
'Hilo Rainbow': displays deep-green foliage with pops of burgundy
Pruning
A mature, well-trimmed plant should have stems of various heights, up to 3 feet to 4 feet (some stems can go much higher), and be clothed in leaves to the soil level. Over time, cordylines tend to become leggy, so you may want to trim back individual stems in a staggered pattern to keep the plant full.
Propagating Cordyline
Propagating ti is typically done with stem cuttings. The easy process is as follows:
Cut 3- to 5-inch pieces from mature stems and remove all of the leaves.
Lay the pieces in a damp mixture of sand and perlite, and keep in a room that's at least 62 degrees Fahrenheit.
Shoots will grow from the eyes of the stems and can be planted in potting soil when they have about four to six leaves each. You can repot in spring or every other spring, as needed.
How to Grow Cordyline From Seed
Ti can be grown with purchased seeds or harvested seeds from the ripened berries that you may occasionally find even on an indoor plant.
Harvested seeds need to be squeezed out of the berry and cleaned. If you found indoor berries, just clean the seeds and let them air-dry for a few days before planting. If you found your berries outdoors, they'll need to be stratified for several months before planting.
When seeds are ready, sow them in well-draining, sandy compost. Germination should happen in four to six weeks, but possibly longer.
Potting and Repotting Cordyline
Cordyline does well in pots, especially if you don't live in a tropical climate: You can just bring them indoors for the winter. When it's time to move the plant outdoors during warmer months, make sure the outdoor soil drains well and any threat of frost has passed.
The plant doesn't need to be repotted unless it's growing too large for its pot, which might be every few years. When repotting, Choose a tall pot of any material with adequate drainage holes for cordyline to accommodate two to three years of root growth.
Overwintering
If you're at the cooler end of cordyline's hardiness zones (9 through 12), you can tie up your plant's leaves with natural twine to keep them safe in cooler months; Just be sure they're dry before you do so to avoid rot. Outdoor cordyline plants also need to be well secured in harsh, windy conditions; The long, thin leaves can thrash in the wind and cause the plant to topple over.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cordyline is prone to common pests and problems, such as scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs. All of these can be fixed with either neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Ti also attracts bacterial leaf spot and root rot. You can try to beat both of these problems with fungicide and by making sure the plants aren't sitting in soil that's too wet.
Common Problems With Cordyline
This otherwise easy-going tropical plant will let you know if it's in trouble by the condition of its leaves. Here's how to fix a leaf issue.
Browning Tips
This is a common problem with many houseplants, including indoor-grown cordyline. The plant may be experiencing underwatering, overwatering, too much fertilizer, root rot, or even overly dry air.
However, another issue could be the salts and fluoride in the tap water used to moisten the plant. Cordyline is sensitive to fluoride, which is found in many residential water supplies. Flush the plant, or before watering, leave the water in an open container overnight to reduce chlorine and salts. You can also switch to distilled or bottled water or harvest rainwater for plants.
Leaves Turning Yellow
A second common problem with houseplants like cordyline is the yellowing of leaves. Most plants naturally shed older yellow leaves. But, if your cordyline's leaves are turning yellow, it may also mean it has a watering issue or it's getting too much sunlight. It needs indirect bright light rather than harsh rays directly on the leaves.
Yellow leaves could also mean your plant is in a spot where there are frequent temperature fluctuations. Check for drafts. Allow the leaves to drop and see how the plant fares in another spot.
If you see that the lower leaves are turning yellow, that usually means there's root rot. Check for waterlogged or blackened roots. Unfortunately, you may not be able to save a cordyline plant with root rot.
FAQ
Is cordyline easy to grow?
Caring for these plants indoors (and outdoors) is easy, simple, and straightforward. But, they must be kept warm and they need a lot of light.
Why is cordyline considered a lucky plant?
In many areas of the world, the ti plant is considered to have mystical powers that bring good luck, long life, and lasting love to its owner. For example, in Hawaii, cordyline is planted around homes to bring good luck to the homeowners.
What is the difference between cordyline and dracaena?
Cordyline and dracaena plants are often confused because they look alike with nearly identical spikey leaves. You can tell the difference by the color roots. Cordyline plants have white roots and dracaena have orange roots.
Some species in this group have fragrant flowers followed by berries. The moderate-growing plant will produce white, pink, or pale lavender flowers that are cup-shaped and sweet-smelling. They bloom in early summer and then small berries will appear after the flowers. It's more typical for flowering to occur in outdoor varieties, but flowers can appear on houseplants. If you plant cordyline outside, do so in the spring. This plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Cordyline, Hawaiian ti plant, good luck plant
Botanical Name Cordyline terminalis
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full-sun, partial sun
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic, 6-6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color White, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9-12 (USDA)
Native Area Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia
Toxicity Highly toxic to dogs and cats
Cordyline Care
Tropical cordyline is a hardy plant if you grow it in the right climate. Its many varieties are colorful and cheery, and it's an attractive low-maintenance evergreen shrub. Ti will bring color to both your indoor or outdoor garden, and it's very easy to maintain.
The name Cordyline originates from Greek; the word kordyle, meaning "club," is a reference to the plant's vigorous root system. If you've planted cordyline outdoors in a raised garden bed, the root system can sometimes grow so large it may disrupt surrounding plants.
Light
Ti needs bright light, but avoid direct sunlight in unhabituated plants. Also, green-leaved cordyline tends to do best with direct light, while those with other colored leaves may prefer bright indirect or filtered sunlight.
Soil
Cordyline needs a rich, well-drained high-quality potting mix with a pH of 6-6.5.
Water
Ti plants prefer to be watered when the surface of its soil feels dry. Water until it starts to run out of the drainage holes. Do not put the drained water back into the plant.
Fertilizer
These plants can be fed in the spring with slow-release pellets. You can feed the plant weekly during the growing season with a liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer at half-strength. Do not fertilize during the winter.
Temperature and Humidity
Ti thrives in temperatures above 62 degrees Fahrenheit and prefers a high humidity environment. Avoid putting the plant near a cold draft like a window. These are tropical plants, so if you're experiencing leaf drop, try raising both the temperature and humidity.
Types of Cordyline
'C. australis': resembles the yucca plant with narrow, long, and grayish to dark leaves
'Calypso Queen': boasts ruby-maroon leaves
'Oahu Rainbow': shows off dark-green leaves streaked with cream and white
'Firebrand': offers beautiful pink leaves that darken to maroon
'Hilo Rainbow': displays deep-green foliage with pops of burgundy
Pruning
A mature, well-trimmed plant should have stems of various heights, up to 3 feet to 4 feet (some stems can go much higher), and be clothed in leaves to the soil level. Over time, cordylines tend to become leggy, so you may want to trim back individual stems in a staggered pattern to keep the plant full.
Propagating Cordyline
Propagating ti is typically done with stem cuttings. The easy process is as follows:
Cut 3- to 5-inch pieces from mature stems and remove all of the leaves.
Lay the pieces in a damp mixture of sand and perlite, and keep in a room that's at least 62 degrees Fahrenheit.
Shoots will grow from the eyes of the stems and can be planted in potting soil when they have about four to six leaves each. You can repot in spring or every other spring, as needed.
How to Grow Cordyline From Seed
Ti can be grown with purchased seeds or harvested seeds from the ripened berries that you may occasionally find even on an indoor plant.
Harvested seeds need to be squeezed out of the berry and cleaned. If you found indoor berries, just clean the seeds and let them air-dry for a few days before planting. If you found your berries outdoors, they'll need to be stratified for several months before planting.
When seeds are ready, sow them in well-draining, sandy compost. Germination should happen in four to six weeks, but possibly longer.
Potting and Repotting Cordyline
Cordyline does well in pots, especially if you don't live in a tropical climate: You can just bring them indoors for the winter. When it's time to move the plant outdoors during warmer months, make sure the outdoor soil drains well and any threat of frost has passed.
The plant doesn't need to be repotted unless it's growing too large for its pot, which might be every few years. When repotting, Choose a tall pot of any material with adequate drainage holes for cordyline to accommodate two to three years of root growth.
Overwintering
If you're at the cooler end of cordyline's hardiness zones (9 through 12), you can tie up your plant's leaves with natural twine to keep them safe in cooler months; Just be sure they're dry before you do so to avoid rot. Outdoor cordyline plants also need to be well secured in harsh, windy conditions; The long, thin leaves can thrash in the wind and cause the plant to topple over.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cordyline is prone to common pests and problems, such as scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs. All of these can be fixed with either neem oil or insecticidal soap.
Ti also attracts bacterial leaf spot and root rot. You can try to beat both of these problems with fungicide and by making sure the plants aren't sitting in soil that's too wet.
Common Problems With Cordyline
This otherwise easy-going tropical plant will let you know if it's in trouble by the condition of its leaves. Here's how to fix a leaf issue.
Browning Tips
This is a common problem with many houseplants, including indoor-grown cordyline. The plant may be experiencing underwatering, overwatering, too much fertilizer, root rot, or even overly dry air.
However, another issue could be the salts and fluoride in the tap water used to moisten the plant. Cordyline is sensitive to fluoride, which is found in many residential water supplies. Flush the plant, or before watering, leave the water in an open container overnight to reduce chlorine and salts. You can also switch to distilled or bottled water or harvest rainwater for plants.
Leaves Turning Yellow
A second common problem with houseplants like cordyline is the yellowing of leaves. Most plants naturally shed older yellow leaves. But, if your cordyline's leaves are turning yellow, it may also mean it has a watering issue or it's getting too much sunlight. It needs indirect bright light rather than harsh rays directly on the leaves.
Yellow leaves could also mean your plant is in a spot where there are frequent temperature fluctuations. Check for drafts. Allow the leaves to drop and see how the plant fares in another spot.
If you see that the lower leaves are turning yellow, that usually means there's root rot. Check for waterlogged or blackened roots. Unfortunately, you may not be able to save a cordyline plant with root rot.
FAQ
Is cordyline easy to grow?
Caring for these plants indoors (and outdoors) is easy, simple, and straightforward. But, they must be kept warm and they need a lot of light.
Why is cordyline considered a lucky plant?
In many areas of the world, the ti plant is considered to have mystical powers that bring good luck, long life, and lasting love to its owner. For example, in Hawaii, cordyline is planted around homes to bring good luck to the homeowners.
What is the difference between cordyline and dracaena?
Cordyline and dracaena plants are often confused because they look alike with nearly identical spikey leaves. You can tell the difference by the color roots. Cordyline plants have white roots and dracaena have orange roots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月24日
The common name "coral bells" is used for several species in the Heuchera genus, comprising hundreds of varieties and hybrids. Coral bells is a traditional perennial foliage plant, with new varieties introduced every year. Native to North America, the plants form round mounds with a woody rootstock or crown at their base and small bell-shaped flowers that begin in spring or early summer on the tall stems. Rich in nectar, the flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies, plus make nice cut blooms. Their leaves are rounded, lobed, hairy, and evergreen or semi-evergreen, depending on the climate. Besides traditional green-leaved coral bells, newer varieties have leaves in shades of purple, rose, lime green, gold, and more.
Coral bells are best planted in late fall or early spring and will grow at a moderate pace, making them a great option for woodlands, rock gardens, containers, borders, and ground covers. But they are short-lived perennials; unless divided regularly, they will die out in a few years.
Common Name Coral bells, alumroot
Botanical Name Heuchera spp.
Family Saxifragaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 8–18 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Rich, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, orange
Hardiness Zones 4–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Coral Bells Care
Coral bells is a fairly easy plant to grow in a semi-shady location in a well-draining, organically rich soil. There are some hybrid cultivars that can do quite well in full sun—though they will require more water in order to thrive. This plant is a good choice for providing color in a landscape filled with shade trees.
While coral bells don't need much maintenance, you can cut back the entire flower stalk after flowering to put the plant's energy into growing more leaves. If the leaves get a bit ragged looking, especially after winter, cut them back and new growth should fill in quickly. Deadheading the faded flowers regularly will help ensure repeated blooming all summer and into fall.
Light
Most varieties of coral bells do best in partial shade, especially in hotter climates. Their color can become washed out if they're kept in full sun, and too much light can cause their leaves to scorch. Keep in mind, coral bells planted in damp shade can be prone to fungal diseases—if your plants start having problems, it's best to move them to a drier site.1
Soil
Coral bells prefer humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Good drainage is a must, especially in shaded areas, as sitting in the damp soil will cause the crown of the plant to rot.2
Water
This plant has medium water needs and likes consistently moist soil. Established plants will tolerate some drought, but an inch of water per week is the best way to keep them happy. If you grow your coral bells in full sun, plan to give them extra water—their shallow roots will need extra moisture during hot, sunny days.
Temperature and Humidity
Coral bells are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9, although the exact hardiness range does depend on the variety you're growing and its parentage. Some Heucheras are only hardy to zone 7, while others do well in cold but don't perform well south of zone 6. Most coral bells prefer relatively dry air, but Heuchera villosa, a native of the southeastern U.S., thrives on both heat and high humidity.
In regions with frigid winters, coral bells crowns can heave above the soil line in the winter. Winter mulching will help prevent the freezing/thawing cycle that pushes the plants up, and you should check periodically to make sure the roots are not exposed.
Fertilizer
Feed coral bells in the spring with a 1/2-inch layer of compost or a light amount of slow-release fertilizer. This plant has light feeding needs; you should avoid heavy applications of quick-release fertilizers, as this will inhibit flowering. Container-grown coral bells benefit from feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer to replenish nutrients that leach from the soil. For the amount, follow the product label instructions.
Types Coral Bells
Several different species of Heuchera, including H. americana, H. sanguinea, H. villosa, and H. parviflora, are commonly sold in the trade, along with named cultivars of each species. H. sanguina is regarded as the best species for ornamental purposes and is the one most often sold as coral bells; the other species are more often known as alumroot. The species plants have medium-green leaves, but 'Dale's Strain' and 'Purple Palace' were two of the first cultivars to offer reddish bronze and purple foliage.3
But even more popular are the many named cultivars derived from cross-species hybridization. These often simply carry the Heuchera label. The exact parentage of hybrids is sometimes lost, but H. americana and H. sanguina are thought to be the most common parent species. The most notable differences between varieties can be seen in their foliage color and texture variations. There are dozens of these cultivars, including:
Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves': As hinted at by its name, the leaves on this hybrid variety change color through the seasons, from red to caramel to ruby.
Heuchera 'Chocolate Ruffles': This hybrid variety has ruffled leaves with rich chocolaty color on the top and deep burgundy on the bottom.
Heuchera 'Green Spice': This hardy hybrid has large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
Heuchera 'Marmalade': Another frilly hybrid cultivar, the leaves on this version appear in shades ranging from umber to deep sienna.
Heuchera 'Citronelle; This variety has bright yellowish-green leaves that are excellent for brightening shady areas.
Heuchera 'Electric Lime': This striking variety has bright green leaves with blood-red veins.
Heuchera 'Fire Chief': Bright red spring foliage slowly deepens to crimson as the season progresses.
Propagating Coral Bells
Coral bells is most often propagated by dividing the root clumps. Either fall or spring division will work, though many gardeners prefer fall. Heuchera plants often produce small offsets around the parent plant, and it's an easy matter to carefully dig up these offsets and replant them. The root crowns of the divisions should be planted so they are just barely covered with soil.5
Heuchera plants are fairly short-lived, and this division should be done every three or four years in order to prevent them from dying out. To propagate mature plants:
Dig up the entire root clump with a shovel in fall or spring.
Cut the root clump into pieces, each having several growth shoots. The woody center portion can be discarded.
Prepare new planting sites by blending in plenty of compost or peat moss, then replant the divisions, just barely covering the root crowns.
How to Grow Coral Bells From Seed
You can start coral bells from seed, but results can be irregular if you are collecting seeds from hybrid plants. Commercial seeds will produce more predictable results. If you want to propagate plants by collecting seeds, it's best to start with pure species plants rather than nursery hybrids. Pure species are easiest to obtain from specialty nurseries or online retailers.
When starting seed, sprinkle the seed on the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring, making sure not to cover the seed as they need light to germinate. You can also start seeds indoors a couple of months before you plan to transplant. Coral bells seeds take two to eight weeks to germinate.
Once established, harden off the plants for 10 days, then transplant the seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. You can plant container-grown coral bells any time after the danger of frost has passed. Keep them well-watered their first year—other than that, they shouldn't require more than some relief from the extreme heat and rich, well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bells
Although it's not typical to grow perennials such as coral bells in containers, it certainly can be done, and this plant does quite well when grown that way. Choose a container that has good drainage and a potting mix that drains freely. When grown in containers, keep the root crown slightly higher than the soil level. If you want to overwinter these plants in pots, they will need to be moved to a protected location to shield them from cold winter temperatures. During the winter months, withhold water and allow the plants to go dormant.6
While the spectacular foliage might tempt you to try growing coral bells as a houseplant, they do not lend themselves to this use. These woodland plants can do fine in outdoor containers where they receive a dormant period over winter, but they rarely are successful as permanent indoor houseplants.
Overwintering
In warmer climates, this plant often remains evergreen through the winter. Because the roots are shallow, coral bells can be prone to winter root heaving in colder climates. A light mulch over the plants can prevent this. In other regions, overwintering simply involves cleaning up plant debris to prevent fungi from overwintering.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coral bells is usually a fairly carefree plant, but it can be affected by various fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, rust, and bacterial leaf spot.7
Potential insect problems include weevils and foliar nematodes. The larvae of the black vine weevil can bore into the crowns and roots of coral bells in late summer or early fall, causing infected plants to wilt and droop.8 You should be able to see the larvae on the plant and remove them by hand and destroy them. If an infection persists, treat your plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil.
How to Get Coral Bells to Bloom
Sparse blooming is usually not terribly concerning with these plants, since it is the foliage color that is of greatest appeal. But the stems of airy, delicate red or pink flowers certainly do have ornamental merit, and if planted in good growing conditions, you can expect repeated blooms from late spring into fall. Avoid overfeeding these plants, which can hinder blossoming as it stimulates foliage development. And some varieties bred to be sun-lovers may not bloom well if they are planted in deep shade.
Common Problems With Coral Bells
Coral bells are generally quite easy to grow, but there are some common cultural problems you may encounter:
Scalded Leaves
Most varieties of coral bells are not keen about growing in full sun, and they may exhibit burned, scorched leaves if they get too much sun, especially in climates with hot summers. Giving plants extra water during hot spells can minimize this scorching.
Plants Die Out After a Few Years
It's sometimes disappointing when a thriving coral bells plant suddenly declines, but this is rather normal, as these are short-lived perennials that usually live only four or five years. You can prolong the lifespan by dividing root clumps every three or four years, which will provide new plants to continue the lineage.
Plants Lift Out of the Ground
Coral bells have shallow root systems with crowns that are slightly exposed. In cold climates, frost heaving can push them out of the ground entirely, which will require you to replant them. A layer of mulch applied just after the ground freezes may help prevent heaving due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
FAQ
How should I use coral bells in the landscape?
Coral bells make wonderful edging plants and put on a show when planted in groups. Their foliage is vibrant and saturated and is great for playing up the colors of nearby flowers in the garden—darker purple leaves can make yellow flowers glow, while butterscotch-colored leaves can bring out the tones of simple green leaves.
Are there any coral bells varieties that work well in hot climates?
The more heat-tolerant cultivars often have Heuchera villosa in their parentage, which is a notably heat-tolerant species. Gardeners as far south as zone 9 usually have good success with varieties based on this species. Two excellent cultivars known for their heat tolerance are ‘Caramel’ and ‘Citronelle’. H. villosa is a native plant in the southeastern U.S. and hardy to zone 7.9
How about cold-winter gardens—are there any varieties that work in zone 3?
Heuchera sanguinea and its direct cultivars are considered hardy to zone 3. But you will need to make sure of the parentage, as many nursery hybrids have other species among their parents, which are not as cold-hardy. To buy pure H. sanguinea plants, you may need to shop at a specialty nursery.
Coral bells are best planted in late fall or early spring and will grow at a moderate pace, making them a great option for woodlands, rock gardens, containers, borders, and ground covers. But they are short-lived perennials; unless divided regularly, they will die out in a few years.
Common Name Coral bells, alumroot
Botanical Name Heuchera spp.
Family Saxifragaceae
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 8–18 in. tall, 12–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Rich, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, orange
Hardiness Zones 4–9 (USDA)
Native Area North America
Coral Bells Care
Coral bells is a fairly easy plant to grow in a semi-shady location in a well-draining, organically rich soil. There are some hybrid cultivars that can do quite well in full sun—though they will require more water in order to thrive. This plant is a good choice for providing color in a landscape filled with shade trees.
While coral bells don't need much maintenance, you can cut back the entire flower stalk after flowering to put the plant's energy into growing more leaves. If the leaves get a bit ragged looking, especially after winter, cut them back and new growth should fill in quickly. Deadheading the faded flowers regularly will help ensure repeated blooming all summer and into fall.
Light
Most varieties of coral bells do best in partial shade, especially in hotter climates. Their color can become washed out if they're kept in full sun, and too much light can cause their leaves to scorch. Keep in mind, coral bells planted in damp shade can be prone to fungal diseases—if your plants start having problems, it's best to move them to a drier site.1
Soil
Coral bells prefer humus-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Good drainage is a must, especially in shaded areas, as sitting in the damp soil will cause the crown of the plant to rot.2
Water
This plant has medium water needs and likes consistently moist soil. Established plants will tolerate some drought, but an inch of water per week is the best way to keep them happy. If you grow your coral bells in full sun, plan to give them extra water—their shallow roots will need extra moisture during hot, sunny days.
Temperature and Humidity
Coral bells are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 9, although the exact hardiness range does depend on the variety you're growing and its parentage. Some Heucheras are only hardy to zone 7, while others do well in cold but don't perform well south of zone 6. Most coral bells prefer relatively dry air, but Heuchera villosa, a native of the southeastern U.S., thrives on both heat and high humidity.
In regions with frigid winters, coral bells crowns can heave above the soil line in the winter. Winter mulching will help prevent the freezing/thawing cycle that pushes the plants up, and you should check periodically to make sure the roots are not exposed.
Fertilizer
Feed coral bells in the spring with a 1/2-inch layer of compost or a light amount of slow-release fertilizer. This plant has light feeding needs; you should avoid heavy applications of quick-release fertilizers, as this will inhibit flowering. Container-grown coral bells benefit from feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer to replenish nutrients that leach from the soil. For the amount, follow the product label instructions.
Types Coral Bells
Several different species of Heuchera, including H. americana, H. sanguinea, H. villosa, and H. parviflora, are commonly sold in the trade, along with named cultivars of each species. H. sanguina is regarded as the best species for ornamental purposes and is the one most often sold as coral bells; the other species are more often known as alumroot. The species plants have medium-green leaves, but 'Dale's Strain' and 'Purple Palace' were two of the first cultivars to offer reddish bronze and purple foliage.3
But even more popular are the many named cultivars derived from cross-species hybridization. These often simply carry the Heuchera label. The exact parentage of hybrids is sometimes lost, but H. americana and H. sanguina are thought to be the most common parent species. The most notable differences between varieties can be seen in their foliage color and texture variations. There are dozens of these cultivars, including:
Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves': As hinted at by its name, the leaves on this hybrid variety change color through the seasons, from red to caramel to ruby.
Heuchera 'Chocolate Ruffles': This hybrid variety has ruffled leaves with rich chocolaty color on the top and deep burgundy on the bottom.
Heuchera 'Green Spice': This hardy hybrid has large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
Heuchera 'Marmalade': Another frilly hybrid cultivar, the leaves on this version appear in shades ranging from umber to deep sienna.
Heuchera 'Citronelle; This variety has bright yellowish-green leaves that are excellent for brightening shady areas.
Heuchera 'Electric Lime': This striking variety has bright green leaves with blood-red veins.
Heuchera 'Fire Chief': Bright red spring foliage slowly deepens to crimson as the season progresses.
Propagating Coral Bells
Coral bells is most often propagated by dividing the root clumps. Either fall or spring division will work, though many gardeners prefer fall. Heuchera plants often produce small offsets around the parent plant, and it's an easy matter to carefully dig up these offsets and replant them. The root crowns of the divisions should be planted so they are just barely covered with soil.5
Heuchera plants are fairly short-lived, and this division should be done every three or four years in order to prevent them from dying out. To propagate mature plants:
Dig up the entire root clump with a shovel in fall or spring.
Cut the root clump into pieces, each having several growth shoots. The woody center portion can be discarded.
Prepare new planting sites by blending in plenty of compost or peat moss, then replant the divisions, just barely covering the root crowns.
How to Grow Coral Bells From Seed
You can start coral bells from seed, but results can be irregular if you are collecting seeds from hybrid plants. Commercial seeds will produce more predictable results. If you want to propagate plants by collecting seeds, it's best to start with pure species plants rather than nursery hybrids. Pure species are easiest to obtain from specialty nurseries or online retailers.
When starting seed, sprinkle the seed on the surface of the soil in late fall or early spring, making sure not to cover the seed as they need light to germinate. You can also start seeds indoors a couple of months before you plan to transplant. Coral bells seeds take two to eight weeks to germinate.
Once established, harden off the plants for 10 days, then transplant the seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed. You can plant container-grown coral bells any time after the danger of frost has passed. Keep them well-watered their first year—other than that, they shouldn't require more than some relief from the extreme heat and rich, well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bells
Although it's not typical to grow perennials such as coral bells in containers, it certainly can be done, and this plant does quite well when grown that way. Choose a container that has good drainage and a potting mix that drains freely. When grown in containers, keep the root crown slightly higher than the soil level. If you want to overwinter these plants in pots, they will need to be moved to a protected location to shield them from cold winter temperatures. During the winter months, withhold water and allow the plants to go dormant.6
While the spectacular foliage might tempt you to try growing coral bells as a houseplant, they do not lend themselves to this use. These woodland plants can do fine in outdoor containers where they receive a dormant period over winter, but they rarely are successful as permanent indoor houseplants.
Overwintering
In warmer climates, this plant often remains evergreen through the winter. Because the roots are shallow, coral bells can be prone to winter root heaving in colder climates. A light mulch over the plants can prevent this. In other regions, overwintering simply involves cleaning up plant debris to prevent fungi from overwintering.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coral bells is usually a fairly carefree plant, but it can be affected by various fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, rust, and bacterial leaf spot.7
Potential insect problems include weevils and foliar nematodes. The larvae of the black vine weevil can bore into the crowns and roots of coral bells in late summer or early fall, causing infected plants to wilt and droop.8 You should be able to see the larvae on the plant and remove them by hand and destroy them. If an infection persists, treat your plants with a mild insecticide or neem oil.
How to Get Coral Bells to Bloom
Sparse blooming is usually not terribly concerning with these plants, since it is the foliage color that is of greatest appeal. But the stems of airy, delicate red or pink flowers certainly do have ornamental merit, and if planted in good growing conditions, you can expect repeated blooms from late spring into fall. Avoid overfeeding these plants, which can hinder blossoming as it stimulates foliage development. And some varieties bred to be sun-lovers may not bloom well if they are planted in deep shade.
Common Problems With Coral Bells
Coral bells are generally quite easy to grow, but there are some common cultural problems you may encounter:
Scalded Leaves
Most varieties of coral bells are not keen about growing in full sun, and they may exhibit burned, scorched leaves if they get too much sun, especially in climates with hot summers. Giving plants extra water during hot spells can minimize this scorching.
Plants Die Out After a Few Years
It's sometimes disappointing when a thriving coral bells plant suddenly declines, but this is rather normal, as these are short-lived perennials that usually live only four or five years. You can prolong the lifespan by dividing root clumps every three or four years, which will provide new plants to continue the lineage.
Plants Lift Out of the Ground
Coral bells have shallow root systems with crowns that are slightly exposed. In cold climates, frost heaving can push them out of the ground entirely, which will require you to replant them. A layer of mulch applied just after the ground freezes may help prevent heaving due to repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
FAQ
How should I use coral bells in the landscape?
Coral bells make wonderful edging plants and put on a show when planted in groups. Their foliage is vibrant and saturated and is great for playing up the colors of nearby flowers in the garden—darker purple leaves can make yellow flowers glow, while butterscotch-colored leaves can bring out the tones of simple green leaves.
Are there any coral bells varieties that work well in hot climates?
The more heat-tolerant cultivars often have Heuchera villosa in their parentage, which is a notably heat-tolerant species. Gardeners as far south as zone 9 usually have good success with varieties based on this species. Two excellent cultivars known for their heat tolerance are ‘Caramel’ and ‘Citronelle’. H. villosa is a native plant in the southeastern U.S. and hardy to zone 7.9
How about cold-winter gardens—are there any varieties that work in zone 3?
Heuchera sanguinea and its direct cultivars are considered hardy to zone 3. But you will need to make sure of the parentage, as many nursery hybrids have other species among their parents, which are not as cold-hardy. To buy pure H. sanguinea plants, you may need to shop at a specialty nursery.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月20日
Coral aloe (Aloe striata) is a strikingly beautiful, hardy and easy-to-grow succulent.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月16日
Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is a weed-like perennial flower that grows from rhizomatous roots and is also known as bitter buttons, cow bitter, and golden buttons. While now considered invasive in North America, at one time the plant was an important culinary herb in Europe. Given its pedigree in the European tradition, it is not surprising that tansy flowers were soon brought to the New World by American colonists and granted a position of garden prominence. From there, however, it soon naturalized into surrounding areas and is now viewed as a noxious weed over large areas of the United States.1
The name is derived from the Greek athanatos, meaning immortality, either because it is long-lived or because tansy was used for embalming in ancient times. In Greek mythology, Zeus was said to have made Ganymede immortal by giving the him tansy on Mount Olympus. Now, however, tansy has been listed by watchdog groups as one of the worst invasive plants in North America.2
Tansy can be identified by its aromatic, fern-like foliage, and bright yellow button-like flowers that appear in flat-topped clusters in summer. The leaves bear a similarity to yarrow, which is also a member of the Asteraceae family of plants.
Botanical Name Tanacetum vulgare
Common Names Common tansy, bitter buttons, cow bitter, golden buttons
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flowering plant
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall, 12- to 18-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained, fertile soil
Soil pH 4.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time July and August
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Temperate regions of Europe and Asia, naturalized over much of North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and livestock.
How to Care for Common Tansy
Common tansy is a low-maintenance plant that requires very little care on the part of the gardener. Although it is considered an invasive plant, it does have its uses. When properly harvested and dried, the bright yellow button flowers produce a soft yellow dye. The plant's history as a strewing herb still bears out today as Common Tansy will repel flies and other pesky insects. Additionally, tansy flowers add potassium to soil and attract an important beneficial insect, the ladybug.2
If you're considering growing tansy flowers, make sure to clip off the spent flowers to prevent this troublesome plant from self-seeding. Keep in mind that the sale of these "noxious-weed seeds" are prohibited in Montana and Wyoming.3 The plant itself is prohibited to be sold or grown in Colorado, Minnesota, Montana, Wyoming, parts of Washington state, and the Alberta and British Columbia provinces in Canada.
Light
Tansy flowers grow best in full sun, though they can tolerate part shade.
Soil
This perennial plant prefers well-drained, fertile garden soil but tolerate almost any soil conditions.
Water
Tansy can tolerate drought and does not need regular watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Tansy flowers are winter hardy to minus-40 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves will turn brown, curl, and dry up in extreme prolonged heat.4
Pruning Common Tansy
One of the best methods for keeping tansy under control is deadheading the flowers. Cut the foliage and flower stems to the ground every year to keep growth in check. Tansy roots go deep so be prepared to do some heavy shovel lifting if you want to remove the plant completely. You can also try spot spraying with a broad spectrum weed killer. Always use caution, and wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles, when using chemical herbicides.
Common Tansy vs. Tansy Ragwort
Do not confuse this plant with "tansy ragwort" (Senecio jacobea), which is a different plant altogether. Tansy ragwort is a winter annual, biennial or short-lived perennial that is also considered a noxious weed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Since the heavily scented leaves of common tansy act as insect repellent, the plant is not vulnerable to pests or disease. Unfortunately, unless measures are undertaken to control its spread, the plant itself could turn out to be the biggest problem.
The name is derived from the Greek athanatos, meaning immortality, either because it is long-lived or because tansy was used for embalming in ancient times. In Greek mythology, Zeus was said to have made Ganymede immortal by giving the him tansy on Mount Olympus. Now, however, tansy has been listed by watchdog groups as one of the worst invasive plants in North America.2
Tansy can be identified by its aromatic, fern-like foliage, and bright yellow button-like flowers that appear in flat-topped clusters in summer. The leaves bear a similarity to yarrow, which is also a member of the Asteraceae family of plants.
Botanical Name Tanacetum vulgare
Common Names Common tansy, bitter buttons, cow bitter, golden buttons
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flowering plant
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall, 12- to 18-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Well-drained, fertile soil
Soil pH 4.8 to 7.5
Bloom Time July and August
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Temperate regions of Europe and Asia, naturalized over much of North America
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, cats, and livestock.
How to Care for Common Tansy
Common tansy is a low-maintenance plant that requires very little care on the part of the gardener. Although it is considered an invasive plant, it does have its uses. When properly harvested and dried, the bright yellow button flowers produce a soft yellow dye. The plant's history as a strewing herb still bears out today as Common Tansy will repel flies and other pesky insects. Additionally, tansy flowers add potassium to soil and attract an important beneficial insect, the ladybug.2
If you're considering growing tansy flowers, make sure to clip off the spent flowers to prevent this troublesome plant from self-seeding. Keep in mind that the sale of these "noxious-weed seeds" are prohibited in Montana and Wyoming.3 The plant itself is prohibited to be sold or grown in Colorado, Minnesota, Montana, Wyoming, parts of Washington state, and the Alberta and British Columbia provinces in Canada.
Light
Tansy flowers grow best in full sun, though they can tolerate part shade.
Soil
This perennial plant prefers well-drained, fertile garden soil but tolerate almost any soil conditions.
Water
Tansy can tolerate drought and does not need regular watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Tansy flowers are winter hardy to minus-40 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves will turn brown, curl, and dry up in extreme prolonged heat.4
Pruning Common Tansy
One of the best methods for keeping tansy under control is deadheading the flowers. Cut the foliage and flower stems to the ground every year to keep growth in check. Tansy roots go deep so be prepared to do some heavy shovel lifting if you want to remove the plant completely. You can also try spot spraying with a broad spectrum weed killer. Always use caution, and wear protective clothing, gloves and goggles, when using chemical herbicides.
Common Tansy vs. Tansy Ragwort
Do not confuse this plant with "tansy ragwort" (Senecio jacobea), which is a different plant altogether. Tansy ragwort is a winter annual, biennial or short-lived perennial that is also considered a noxious weed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Since the heavily scented leaves of common tansy act as insect repellent, the plant is not vulnerable to pests or disease. Unfortunately, unless measures are undertaken to control its spread, the plant itself could turn out to be the biggest problem.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月11日
Mugwort (Artemesia vulgaris) is a perennial herb with a long history. This is an aromatic plant, thought to promote and enhance dreaming during sleep. It has been used over many centuries as a bitter-tasting tonic for digestive disorders and as a flavoring agent in cooking and distilling. The dried leaves have antifungal and antiseptic properties, too.
Common mugwort is just one of more than 500 Artemisia species, all of which are part of the Asteraceae (daisy) family.
Traditionally grown for culinary and medicinal purposes, this aromatic plant has ornamental value in a wild or meadow garden setting. It's known for being attractive to pollinators like bees and butterflies.
A robust species with strong, woody roots that help support its impressive height—mugwort can grow up to six feet tall. Its attractive foliage develops interesting gray-green tones, and the dark green erect stems have a distinct purple hue.
During the summer, mugwort displays small red, pink, orange, and yellow flowers. Although they aren't as showy as a lot of prized garden plants, they look lovely in dried flower arrangements.
Their height means they can act as an attractive backdrop for smaller border or walled garden plants, and they also give off a pleasant sage-like fragrance. Mugwort is fast-spreading and is classed as an invasive noxious weed in some parts of the United States. You should always check before planting, and be aware that it can quickly choke out less robust plants in its vicinity.
Common wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) is frequently mistaken for mugwort, and vice versa. While they're closely related, they're completely separate species. Mugwort can be identified through its foliage which has white hairs on the undersides, and the leaves have sharp edges, rather than the blunt type seen on wormwood.
Botanical Name Artemisia vulgaris
Common Name Common mugwort
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size Up to 6 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun / partial shade
Soil Type Tolerates a variety of well-drained types
Soil pH Tolerates a variety
Bloom Time Summer and early fall
Flower Color Yellowish to reddish-brown
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8
Native Area Asia, Europe and North Africa
How to Care for Mugwort
Although it prefers plenty of sun and well-draining soil, once it's established, mugwort is hardy, drought-tolerant, and can cope with a variety of conditions.
It's even thought that infertile soils and dry conditions can increase the longevity and aromatic intensity of the plant, and it won't grow as tall.
Mugworts rhizomatous roots spread quickly, and their seeds disperse across a wide area. This is why they're often classed as invasive. If you still want to grow mugwort, but have concerns about their invasive nature, planting them in containers or in isolation could be considered. Check with your local extension office before planting.
Light
Mugwort prefers a location where they'll receive full sunlight during the day. They can, however, still cope in partial shade, too.
Soil
Mugwort is tolerant of a variety of soil types, including those with high alkalinity or nitrogen content.
Although it prefers slightly moist and well-draining soils, it survives well in dry and infertile conditions. In fact, although the plants won't grow as high, it can result in more aromatic and long-lived specimens.
Water
This plant doesn't appreciate being over-watered. Excessively wet soils will usually result in root rot. Young plants benefit from watering to keep the soil lightly moist, but once mugwort is well-established, it's pretty drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is known for surviving across a wide range of temperatures. If you live in a region that experiences high heat and humidity during the summer, however, the foliage can begin to droop and won't look as healthy. The thick and tall stems can be prone to flopping too.
Propagating Mugwort
Mugwort can be easily propagated via basal cuttings or by dividing the rhizomatous roots.
Division of the roots can be done in the spring (before the new foliage appears) or fall, and establishing a cutting is best done in the late spring when new growth starts to appear.
Harvesting
Mugwort harvesting can be done at different times of the year, depending on how you plan to use it. It's most commonly harvested in the fall in advance of the first frosts. The top third of the plant can be cut off and hung in a dry and shady position to dry out.
Growing From Seeds
Mugwort seeds are best sown close to the soil surface in the early spring after a period of cold stratification. They appreciate plenty of light and should be kept moist.
Pruning
Like most herbs, mugwort will thrive with repeated pruning throughout the growing season. You can take up to a foot off the top, which will encourage branching and help give mugwort its appealing shrubby look. In regions with colder winters, this plant can also be cut back to the ground for overwintering. New shoots will begin to show in mid-spring once they are two to three feet tall, you should begin the pruning process.
Common mugwort is just one of more than 500 Artemisia species, all of which are part of the Asteraceae (daisy) family.
Traditionally grown for culinary and medicinal purposes, this aromatic plant has ornamental value in a wild or meadow garden setting. It's known for being attractive to pollinators like bees and butterflies.
A robust species with strong, woody roots that help support its impressive height—mugwort can grow up to six feet tall. Its attractive foliage develops interesting gray-green tones, and the dark green erect stems have a distinct purple hue.
During the summer, mugwort displays small red, pink, orange, and yellow flowers. Although they aren't as showy as a lot of prized garden plants, they look lovely in dried flower arrangements.
Their height means they can act as an attractive backdrop for smaller border or walled garden plants, and they also give off a pleasant sage-like fragrance. Mugwort is fast-spreading and is classed as an invasive noxious weed in some parts of the United States. You should always check before planting, and be aware that it can quickly choke out less robust plants in its vicinity.
Common wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) is frequently mistaken for mugwort, and vice versa. While they're closely related, they're completely separate species. Mugwort can be identified through its foliage which has white hairs on the undersides, and the leaves have sharp edges, rather than the blunt type seen on wormwood.
Botanical Name Artemisia vulgaris
Common Name Common mugwort
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size Up to 6 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full sun / partial shade
Soil Type Tolerates a variety of well-drained types
Soil pH Tolerates a variety
Bloom Time Summer and early fall
Flower Color Yellowish to reddish-brown
Hardiness Zones 3 to 8
Native Area Asia, Europe and North Africa
How to Care for Mugwort
Although it prefers plenty of sun and well-draining soil, once it's established, mugwort is hardy, drought-tolerant, and can cope with a variety of conditions.
It's even thought that infertile soils and dry conditions can increase the longevity and aromatic intensity of the plant, and it won't grow as tall.
Mugworts rhizomatous roots spread quickly, and their seeds disperse across a wide area. This is why they're often classed as invasive. If you still want to grow mugwort, but have concerns about their invasive nature, planting them in containers or in isolation could be considered. Check with your local extension office before planting.
Light
Mugwort prefers a location where they'll receive full sunlight during the day. They can, however, still cope in partial shade, too.
Soil
Mugwort is tolerant of a variety of soil types, including those with high alkalinity or nitrogen content.
Although it prefers slightly moist and well-draining soils, it survives well in dry and infertile conditions. In fact, although the plants won't grow as high, it can result in more aromatic and long-lived specimens.
Water
This plant doesn't appreciate being over-watered. Excessively wet soils will usually result in root rot. Young plants benefit from watering to keep the soil lightly moist, but once mugwort is well-established, it's pretty drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is known for surviving across a wide range of temperatures. If you live in a region that experiences high heat and humidity during the summer, however, the foliage can begin to droop and won't look as healthy. The thick and tall stems can be prone to flopping too.
Propagating Mugwort
Mugwort can be easily propagated via basal cuttings or by dividing the rhizomatous roots.
Division of the roots can be done in the spring (before the new foliage appears) or fall, and establishing a cutting is best done in the late spring when new growth starts to appear.
Harvesting
Mugwort harvesting can be done at different times of the year, depending on how you plan to use it. It's most commonly harvested in the fall in advance of the first frosts. The top third of the plant can be cut off and hung in a dry and shady position to dry out.
Growing From Seeds
Mugwort seeds are best sown close to the soil surface in the early spring after a period of cold stratification. They appreciate plenty of light and should be kept moist.
Pruning
Like most herbs, mugwort will thrive with repeated pruning throughout the growing season. You can take up to a foot off the top, which will encourage branching and help give mugwort its appealing shrubby look. In regions with colder winters, this plant can also be cut back to the ground for overwintering. New shoots will begin to show in mid-spring once they are two to three feet tall, you should begin the pruning process.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月03日
Common bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) is a spring-blooming herbaceous perennial plant that grows arching stems from rhizomatous roots and produces sprays of small heart-shaped flowers of pink and white. The plant is a fast grower that typically reaches 2 or 3 feet in height within 60 days or so. Though it flourishes best outdoors, growing it indoors is entirely possible and rewarding.
Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals.
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Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis)
Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside?
The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors
Sunlight
Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering.
Temperature and Humidity
The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment.
Watering
Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot.
Fertilizer
Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant.
Pruning and Maintenance
No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom.
Container and Size
Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.
Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart
Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil.
Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer
Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant.
Considerations
Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside
Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart?
To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments.
How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors?
It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
Common bleeding heart contains isoquinolone alkaloids, which can be toxic to humans and some animals.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Grow and Care for Aloe
Botanical Name Lamprocapnos spectabilis (formerly Dicentra spectabilis)
Common Names Common bleeding heart, bleeding heart
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial flower
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Can You Grow Common Bleeding Heart Inside?
The need for partial or full shade, as well as the plant's love of moderate to cooler temperatures, makes this a fantastic option for growing indoors. An ambient temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit or less is ideal. Though it might grow faster outdoors, the use of excellent potting soil and proper placement away from windows will help it grow. Give it the proper conditions and you won't have to give it much attention beyond regular watering. Keep in mind that it will need a larger pot, at least 12 inches in diameter, to truly thrive.
How to Grow Common Bleeding Heart Indoors
Sunlight
Grow this plant in partial shade to full shade. In partial shade, Lamprocapnos spectabilis will need approximately 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. It will tolerate some sun, especially in cooler climates. Watch to make sure it does not become overheated. This could result in a lack of flowering.
Temperature and Humidity
The bleeding heart likes relatively cool conditions and will not do well with too much sun, especially in the southern part of the hardiness range. It tolerates a wide range of humidity levels. The ideal growing temperature for common bleeding heart is 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this makes them especially well-suited to the indoor environment.
Watering
Keep the soil moist but the foliage dry. These plants need a full 1 inch of water each week. However, do not allow the roots of bleeding heart to soak in water, as this can lead to rot.
Fertilizer
Mix compost or peat moss into the soil before planting, then feed each month with a slow-release, granular fertilizer mixed into the soil around the base of the plant.
Pruning and Maintenance
No pruning is required for common bleeding heart. Cut back dying foliage for a better appearance. When stems die, cut them down as close to the base as possible. Keep in mind that the plant might go dormant, even under the best of indoor conditions, but it will rebloom.
Container and Size
Since common bleeding heart can reach several feet in height, it is imperative to pot it in a container that accommodates the growing roots. Start with a container at least 12 inches in diameter. The material doesn't matter as long as the container has good drainage.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Moist, well-drained soil with a high-level of organic humus is best for this plant. It prefers a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH.
Potting and Repotting Common Bleeding Heart
Common bleeding heart can grow for four or five years in a large pot until it must be divided and repotted. When repotting, make sure to leave 2 to 3 inches of growing room around the root ball and fill the pot with fresh soil.
Moving Common Bleeding Heart Outdoors for the Summer
Bleeding heart can easily move outdoors during the summer months. Keep in mind, however, that the optimum growing temperature is about 65 degrees Fahrenheit; this means springtime is great for moving it outside, but the summer months might be warm enough to make the plant go dormant.
Considerations
Ensure that your plant is kept in partial to full shade. When the temperature ticks up beyond 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant might go dormant. Watch the sky to ensure the plant doesn't receive too much water.
When to Bring Common Bleeding Heart Back Inside
Before bringing the plant inside, make sure it is free of garden pests. Though there is no need to acclimate it to the indoor atmosphere, keep in mind that if it was subjected to temperatures higher than 65 degrees Fahrenheit while outside, it might go dormant regardless of the care you give it indoors.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate common bleeding heart?
To propagate, dig up the roots in the early spring, and divide them into pieces. Discard any dried pieces, then replant the segments.
How do you force common bleeding heart to bloom indoors?
It should bloom easily in the right conditions, including indirect sunlight and good humidity levels during the winter season. Keep in mind the life cycle of the common bleeding heart means it will go dormant during cooler weather.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年05月01日
Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) blooms are said to resemble jester's caps, and their effectiveness at attracting hummingbirds will certainly put bird watchers in a merry mood. This herbaceous perennial is an airy plant with attractive clover-like foliage. The blooms come in many colors, and most have spurs: long, narrow strips streaming horizontally from the back of each flower. This plant is generally planted in early spring. Established plants typically bloom for about four weeks starting in mid-spring.
Columbines are short-lived perennial plants, but if you let the flower heads go to seed rather than deadheading them, they will readily self-sow and might soon form a colony of plants when growing conditions are optimal. They have a moderate growth rate, and seeds germinate in about 20 to 30 days. Columbine plants are toxic to humans.1
How to Keep Your Flowers Fresh (We Tested ALL the Methods!)
Common Name Columbine
Botanical Name Aquilegia spp.
Family Ranunculaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1-3 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full or partial
Soil Type Sandy, loamy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic
Bloom Time Spring to summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, violet, pink, white
Hardiness Zones Zones 3 to 8
Native Area North America, Europe, Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans
Columbine Care
Columbines are great re-seeders. Many gardeners save money by starting the plants from seed rather than buying them at the nursery in pots (although you will have to wait a year for flowers). Not deadheading will result in plenty of self-sown replacements.
These plants do not tolerate hot, full sun well; they decline in the summer. They prefer medium moisture, well-drained soil. However, once established, columbine plants are drought-tolerant perennials. These plants are perfect for rock gardens and woodland gardens. Their attractive foliage makes them suitable as edging plants, and they are also frequently used in cottage gardens.
Light
Partial shade is the standard recommendation for growing columbine, but this plant tolerates full sun in cooler climates and during cool spring days.
Soil
Grow columbine plants in well-drained humusy soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Mix some compost into the soil before planting to provide them with rich organic material. They prefer sandy or loamy soil over clay because good drainage is key.
Water
Columbine requires moderate soil moisture, so apply water when the top inch or two of soil dries out. As young plants are becoming established, keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Established plants only need watering about once a week. Mulch the plants to conserve water in the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Columbines are perennial in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8, but choose a variety that's well-suited for your specific climate. The plants flower best in cooler temperatures. They don't tolerate excessive heat.
Fertilizer
Use a liquid, water-soluble fertilizer once a month during the growing season (spring to fall) to promote healthy foliage and better blooming. This plant requires phosphorus for healthy root development. Fertilizer too high in nitrogen can affect flower production; try using 5-10-5 NPK fertilizer, which is boosted in phosphorus.
Types of Columbine
Aquilegia flabellata 'Nana': A dwarf cultivar with light blue and white bi-colored flowers; six to nine inches tall
Aquilegia 'Crimson Star': Crimson red and white bi-colored flowers with long spurs; 24 to 30 inches tall.
Aquilegia 'McKana Hybrid': Bi-colored flowers with long spurs in shades of blue and white, red and yellow, and combinations of pink and purple; plants are tall, up to 30 inches
Aquilegia caerulea: Rocky Mountain columbine has grayish-green, fern-like foliage; very large white flowers with violet-blue sepals and yellow stamens; grows up to 24 inches tall
Aquilegia vulgaris 'Clementine Salmon-Rose': A long-blooming variety with salmon-colored, upward-facing blooms that resemble the blossoms of a double-flowered clematis; 14 to 16 inches tall
Pruning
Prune columbine plants back to their healthy base leaves just after blooming. Doing so might promote a second set of stem growth within a few weeks enabling you to enjoy another wave of blooms later in the season. Columbines can be cut back to about one-half of their height after flowering to keep the plant attractive and green for the remainder of the summer.
Propagating Columbine
Columbine is best propagated by sowing seeds or by division. Columbine seeds can be directly sown in the garden in early spring or summer.
Columbine can be divided in the spring, once every two or three years. A divided plant remains vibrant and vigorous for many years. Columbine has deep roots, so if you must divide it, dig down deeply. Here's how to propagate by division:
You'll need a shovel or spade and a sharp knife.
With a spade or shovel, deeply dig in a circle around the plant to loosen up the plant from the ground.
Lift the plant out of the ground being careful not to break up the soil around the root system.
Work fast to divide and re-plant: divide the plant as quickly as you can with a sharp, sterilized knife. Try not to dislodge soil around the roots.
Replant one division into the same planting hole and backfill the hole with well-draining soil.
How to Grow Columbine From Seed
Propagating from collected seeds is the easiest way to grow columbine. After the flowers have faded and dried up, harvest the ripened seed pods left inside and break them open to collect the shiny black seeds. Store them in the refrigerator over winter. They need three to four weeks of cold before germinating, which ensures they will be ready to sow when the time comes. Plant them in the garden the following spring. Or you can let your columbines reseed naturally by not deadheading spent blooms
If you start the seeds indoors, plant them in moist soil by laying one to two columbine seeds on top of the soil mix and cover lightly with additional soil. Set them in a sunny location. The seedlings will emerge in three to four weeks. When the plants reach three to four inches in height, harden them off gradually, then plant them outdoors about ten inches apart.
Potting and Repotting Columbine
Plant each seedling in a medium-sized (ten inch) container. Container material can be plastic, clay, wood, or stone, but ensure the container has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill each container with good quality, well-draining potting soil.
Overwintering
Columbines can withstand cold temperatures. At the end of their growing season, remove any wilted columbine foliage and cut columbine stalks to the ground. Flower stalks will regrow next spring, along with any new plants that successfully self-seeded. For extra protection from winter temperatures, scatter a light layer of mulch or decaying leaves around the plant crown.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Columbine foliage often bears the "doodling" of leaf miners, but the damage usually is not serious and gives the foliage a sort of randomly "variegated" look that can be appealing to some gardeners.2 Keep an eye out for the first signs of doodling, inspect the leaves for the larvae, and crush them with your fingers. You can also handpick leaves at the first sign of mining activity.
Other common pests include columbine sawflies3 and columbine aphids. Aphids can cause stunted growth while sawflies cause defoliation. To control aphids and sawflies, you can spray with ultra-fine horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Fungal diseases like gray mold and powdery mildew4 can affect columbine. Remove faded flowers to control gray mold from developing. If symptoms like a fuzzy gray mold or white mildew starts forming, apply a fungicide to control it.
How to Get Columbine to Bloom
Columbine plants bloom in mid-spring to early summer. Most columbine varieties have little to no scent, but Rocky Mountain columbine (Aquilegia caerulea) has a distinctive sweet smell. You can extend columbine's bloom period by pinching spent flowers back to just above a bud. If you do not deadhead spent blooms, the resulting seed production takes energy away from the plants. Columbine sown in spring will not bloom the first year; however, plants started in fall will bloom the following spring.
Common Problems With Columbine
Columbine plants can be grown in a range of climates and are easy to grow in a home garden. Like any garden plant, they are susceptible to a few problems, such as insect activity and fungal infections.
Yellowing Leaves
In areas with hot or dry summers, columbine leaves can turn yellow. If you keep the soil evenly moist, the plant might sustain itself. But if heat turns the leaves yellow or the plant dies down, cut the plant to its basal leaves. The plant is not dead. It might not come back until the next spring, but sometimes it can re-emerge in the early fall.
Leaves Turning White
Powdery mildew creates white powdery patches on the leaves. It can take over an entire plant, mainly during periods of high humidity when temperatures are warm and nights cool down. The fungus spreads through splashing water and travel by wind to infect other plants. Once established, powdery mildew is difficult to control. Treat an infected plant with a fungicide as soon as you notice symptoms; be sure to read instructions on the product label for proper application methods.5
Leaves Disappearing
One day you can have a full columbine plant, and the next, the leaves are gone. This defoliation is a sign of a slug infestation. Slugs come out at night. Put out bait such as a pan of beer or an upside-down melon rind. The slugs will be attracted to both. They'll drown in the beer, and you can dispose of the slug-infested melon rind. You can also spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant. The slugs will not cross that barrier.
FAQ
How long can columbine live?
Columbine plants are generally short-lived with an average lifespan of about three or four years.
Can columbine grow indoors?
Columbine is a perennial flowering plant that isn't well suited for growing indoors. You can try growing it from seed indoors and sustaining it in a sunny window, but it likely will not live long and might not bloom.
What's the difference between columbine meadow rue and columbine?
Columbine meadow rue (Thalictrum) is a herbaceous perennial also in the Ranunculaceae (buttercup) family that is native to Europe and central Asia. It leaves look very similar to columbine (Aquilegia). But the leaves of the columbine meadow rue are gray-green and more delicate than Aquilegia. Columbine meadow rue bears clusters of long-lasting fluffy cottony flowers in shades of lilac, purple, or white in early summer. Columbine has five-petaled flowers that have long, backward-extending spurs that give it a unique, distinctive look.
Columbines are short-lived perennial plants, but if you let the flower heads go to seed rather than deadheading them, they will readily self-sow and might soon form a colony of plants when growing conditions are optimal. They have a moderate growth rate, and seeds germinate in about 20 to 30 days. Columbine plants are toxic to humans.1
How to Keep Your Flowers Fresh (We Tested ALL the Methods!)
Common Name Columbine
Botanical Name Aquilegia spp.
Family Ranunculaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1-3 ft. tall, 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full or partial
Soil Type Sandy, loamy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic
Bloom Time Spring to summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, violet, pink, white
Hardiness Zones Zones 3 to 8
Native Area North America, Europe, Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans
Columbine Care
Columbines are great re-seeders. Many gardeners save money by starting the plants from seed rather than buying them at the nursery in pots (although you will have to wait a year for flowers). Not deadheading will result in plenty of self-sown replacements.
These plants do not tolerate hot, full sun well; they decline in the summer. They prefer medium moisture, well-drained soil. However, once established, columbine plants are drought-tolerant perennials. These plants are perfect for rock gardens and woodland gardens. Their attractive foliage makes them suitable as edging plants, and they are also frequently used in cottage gardens.
Light
Partial shade is the standard recommendation for growing columbine, but this plant tolerates full sun in cooler climates and during cool spring days.
Soil
Grow columbine plants in well-drained humusy soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Mix some compost into the soil before planting to provide them with rich organic material. They prefer sandy or loamy soil over clay because good drainage is key.
Water
Columbine requires moderate soil moisture, so apply water when the top inch or two of soil dries out. As young plants are becoming established, keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Established plants only need watering about once a week. Mulch the plants to conserve water in the summer.
Temperature and Humidity
Columbines are perennial in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8, but choose a variety that's well-suited for your specific climate. The plants flower best in cooler temperatures. They don't tolerate excessive heat.
Fertilizer
Use a liquid, water-soluble fertilizer once a month during the growing season (spring to fall) to promote healthy foliage and better blooming. This plant requires phosphorus for healthy root development. Fertilizer too high in nitrogen can affect flower production; try using 5-10-5 NPK fertilizer, which is boosted in phosphorus.
Types of Columbine
Aquilegia flabellata 'Nana': A dwarf cultivar with light blue and white bi-colored flowers; six to nine inches tall
Aquilegia 'Crimson Star': Crimson red and white bi-colored flowers with long spurs; 24 to 30 inches tall.
Aquilegia 'McKana Hybrid': Bi-colored flowers with long spurs in shades of blue and white, red and yellow, and combinations of pink and purple; plants are tall, up to 30 inches
Aquilegia caerulea: Rocky Mountain columbine has grayish-green, fern-like foliage; very large white flowers with violet-blue sepals and yellow stamens; grows up to 24 inches tall
Aquilegia vulgaris 'Clementine Salmon-Rose': A long-blooming variety with salmon-colored, upward-facing blooms that resemble the blossoms of a double-flowered clematis; 14 to 16 inches tall
Pruning
Prune columbine plants back to their healthy base leaves just after blooming. Doing so might promote a second set of stem growth within a few weeks enabling you to enjoy another wave of blooms later in the season. Columbines can be cut back to about one-half of their height after flowering to keep the plant attractive and green for the remainder of the summer.
Propagating Columbine
Columbine is best propagated by sowing seeds or by division. Columbine seeds can be directly sown in the garden in early spring or summer.
Columbine can be divided in the spring, once every two or three years. A divided plant remains vibrant and vigorous for many years. Columbine has deep roots, so if you must divide it, dig down deeply. Here's how to propagate by division:
You'll need a shovel or spade and a sharp knife.
With a spade or shovel, deeply dig in a circle around the plant to loosen up the plant from the ground.
Lift the plant out of the ground being careful not to break up the soil around the root system.
Work fast to divide and re-plant: divide the plant as quickly as you can with a sharp, sterilized knife. Try not to dislodge soil around the roots.
Replant one division into the same planting hole and backfill the hole with well-draining soil.
How to Grow Columbine From Seed
Propagating from collected seeds is the easiest way to grow columbine. After the flowers have faded and dried up, harvest the ripened seed pods left inside and break them open to collect the shiny black seeds. Store them in the refrigerator over winter. They need three to four weeks of cold before germinating, which ensures they will be ready to sow when the time comes. Plant them in the garden the following spring. Or you can let your columbines reseed naturally by not deadheading spent blooms
If you start the seeds indoors, plant them in moist soil by laying one to two columbine seeds on top of the soil mix and cover lightly with additional soil. Set them in a sunny location. The seedlings will emerge in three to four weeks. When the plants reach three to four inches in height, harden them off gradually, then plant them outdoors about ten inches apart.
Potting and Repotting Columbine
Plant each seedling in a medium-sized (ten inch) container. Container material can be plastic, clay, wood, or stone, but ensure the container has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill each container with good quality, well-draining potting soil.
Overwintering
Columbines can withstand cold temperatures. At the end of their growing season, remove any wilted columbine foliage and cut columbine stalks to the ground. Flower stalks will regrow next spring, along with any new plants that successfully self-seeded. For extra protection from winter temperatures, scatter a light layer of mulch or decaying leaves around the plant crown.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Columbine foliage often bears the "doodling" of leaf miners, but the damage usually is not serious and gives the foliage a sort of randomly "variegated" look that can be appealing to some gardeners.2 Keep an eye out for the first signs of doodling, inspect the leaves for the larvae, and crush them with your fingers. You can also handpick leaves at the first sign of mining activity.
Other common pests include columbine sawflies3 and columbine aphids. Aphids can cause stunted growth while sawflies cause defoliation. To control aphids and sawflies, you can spray with ultra-fine horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.
Fungal diseases like gray mold and powdery mildew4 can affect columbine. Remove faded flowers to control gray mold from developing. If symptoms like a fuzzy gray mold or white mildew starts forming, apply a fungicide to control it.
How to Get Columbine to Bloom
Columbine plants bloom in mid-spring to early summer. Most columbine varieties have little to no scent, but Rocky Mountain columbine (Aquilegia caerulea) has a distinctive sweet smell. You can extend columbine's bloom period by pinching spent flowers back to just above a bud. If you do not deadhead spent blooms, the resulting seed production takes energy away from the plants. Columbine sown in spring will not bloom the first year; however, plants started in fall will bloom the following spring.
Common Problems With Columbine
Columbine plants can be grown in a range of climates and are easy to grow in a home garden. Like any garden plant, they are susceptible to a few problems, such as insect activity and fungal infections.
Yellowing Leaves
In areas with hot or dry summers, columbine leaves can turn yellow. If you keep the soil evenly moist, the plant might sustain itself. But if heat turns the leaves yellow or the plant dies down, cut the plant to its basal leaves. The plant is not dead. It might not come back until the next spring, but sometimes it can re-emerge in the early fall.
Leaves Turning White
Powdery mildew creates white powdery patches on the leaves. It can take over an entire plant, mainly during periods of high humidity when temperatures are warm and nights cool down. The fungus spreads through splashing water and travel by wind to infect other plants. Once established, powdery mildew is difficult to control. Treat an infected plant with a fungicide as soon as you notice symptoms; be sure to read instructions on the product label for proper application methods.5
Leaves Disappearing
One day you can have a full columbine plant, and the next, the leaves are gone. This defoliation is a sign of a slug infestation. Slugs come out at night. Put out bait such as a pan of beer or an upside-down melon rind. The slugs will be attracted to both. They'll drown in the beer, and you can dispose of the slug-infested melon rind. You can also spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant. The slugs will not cross that barrier.
FAQ
How long can columbine live?
Columbine plants are generally short-lived with an average lifespan of about three or four years.
Can columbine grow indoors?
Columbine is a perennial flowering plant that isn't well suited for growing indoors. You can try growing it from seed indoors and sustaining it in a sunny window, but it likely will not live long and might not bloom.
What's the difference between columbine meadow rue and columbine?
Columbine meadow rue (Thalictrum) is a herbaceous perennial also in the Ranunculaceae (buttercup) family that is native to Europe and central Asia. It leaves look very similar to columbine (Aquilegia). But the leaves of the columbine meadow rue are gray-green and more delicate than Aquilegia. Columbine meadow rue bears clusters of long-lasting fluffy cottony flowers in shades of lilac, purple, or white in early summer. Columbine has five-petaled flowers that have long, backward-extending spurs that give it a unique, distinctive look.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月23日
The coffee plant is an attractive little specimen with glossy green leaves and a compact growth habit. It makes a surprisingly good potted indoor plant. Native to Ethiopia, the coffee plant (Coffea arabica) will flower in the spring with small white flowers and then bear half-inch berries that gradually darken from green to blackish pods. Each of these fruits contains two seeds, which eventually become the coffee beans you use to brew coffee. Other than the seeds, it's important to know that all plant parts are toxic to both humans and animals.12
In their native habitat, coffee plants grow into medium-sized trees. But growers regularly prune the plants to be a more manageable size, especially when the plants are grown indoors. (Note that you can't grow coffee plants from the beans you buy in a store; those have been treated and roasted and will not sprout.) Even though coffee plants are vigorous growers, it will typically take a few years before your plant produces flowers and subsequent fruits. All parts of the plant are toxic to pets and humans—the beans are edible to humans.
Common Name Coffee plant, Arabian coffee
Botanical Name Coffea arabica
Family Rubiaceae, Madder
Plant Type Evergreen perennial
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH 6.0-6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Ethiopia, tropical Africa
Toxicity All parts of the plant are toxic to dogs, cats, and people; beans are edible for people
Coffee Plant Care
The best environment in which to grow coffee plants is to mimic its natural conditions found on a tropical, mid-elevation mountainside: plenty of water with good drainage, high humidity, relatively cool temperatures, and rich, slightly acidic soil.
You can grow coffee plants outdoors if the conditions are similar to their natural environment. Indoors, coffee plants do best placed near a window but not in direct sunlight. Make sure to keep the plant away from drafts, such as those produced from air conditioning. Be prepared to water at least weekly to keep the soil moist.
Light
Coffee plants prefer dappled sunlight or full sunlight in weaker latitudes. They are actually understory plants (existing under the forest canopy) and do not thrive in direct, harsh sunlight. Coffee plants that are exposed to too much direct sunlight will develop leaf browning.
Soil
Plant coffee plants in a rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage. Coffee plants prefer acidic soil, so if your plant is not thriving add organic matter such as sphagnum peat moss to increase soil pH. The ideal pH range is closer to 6 to 6.5.
Water
These plants are water lovers and require both regular and ample watering. The soil should stay evenly moist but not waterlogged. Never allow the soil to dry out completely.3
Temperature and Humidity
The optimal average temperature range for coffee plants is a daytime temperature between 70 to 80 degrees and a nighttime temperature between 65 to 70 degrees. Higher (hotter) temperatures can accelerate growth, but higher temperatures are not ideal for growing plants for their beans. The fruits need to ripen at a slow, steady pace.
In addition, because these plants naturally grow on the sides of tropical mountains, they thrive in highly humid conditions which usually receive plenty of rain and fog. A humidity level of 50 percent or higher should suffice. If the air is too dry, the leaf edges might start to brown. Mist the plant daily to raise the humidity level.
Fertilizer
Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season every couple of weeks. Cut the fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Types of Coffee Plant
Coffea arabica 'Nana': This is a dwarf variety that only grows 12-inches tall, making it ideal to cultivate indoors.
Coffea canephora: Commonly known as robusta coffee, this species comes from sub-Saharan Africa. Its plants are robust; however, the coffee beans are less favored because they tend to have a stronger, harsher taste than arabica beans.
Coffea liberica: A variety native to central and western Africa, it was first discovered in Liberia. It produces large fruits with a higher caffeine content than arabica beans, but lower than robusta beans.
Pruning
Coffee plant needs little pruning, but should be cut back in the spring with clean, sharp gardening shears. This will help shape your plant, and it will grow back bushier!
Propagating Coffee Plants
To propagate coffee plant, you can do so from cuttings or air layers (a somewhat involved technique where you root branches still attached to the parent plant). The best time to take a cutting is in the early summer.
Select a straight shoot that's about 8 to 10 inches long and remove all but a pair of upper leaves.
Then, plant the cutting in a small pot of soilless potting mix, and keep the soil slightly moist.
When you can gently tug on the plant and feel resistance, you'll know roots have formed.
How to Grow Coffee Plant From Seed
While you can't germinate the coffee beans you buy in a store, you can sprout the ones that grow on your coffee plant. Called "cherries," rub away their flesh wash away any residue; dry thoroughly by sitting in the open air for a few weeks. Then, soak the cherries in water for 24 hours, and then sow in damp, but well-draining, sand. If you water daily, the cherries should germinate in two to four months. When they've germinated, carefully remove them and plant each one in well-draining, acidic soil. Water twice a week.
Potting and Repotting Coffee Plant
Repot your coffee plant every spring, gradually stepping up the pot size. Make sure the container has several drainage holes. If you want, you can prune the plant to the desired size, slightly restrict its pot size, and root prune to keep its growth manageable.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coffee plants grown indoors will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites.3 Signs of infestation include tiny webs, clumps of white powdery residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations with insecticides, or something organic like neem oil. as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection.
How to Get Coffee Plant to Bloom
Coffee plants bloom delicate, white flowers, once the plant is around three-years-old. If these blooms are pollinated—if your coffee plant is outdoors—the flowers will give way to little, red fruit (the "cherries") that are slightly soft to the touch.
To get your own coffee plant to bloom, make sure it's at the right temperature—70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day—has four to five hours of sunlight a day, and is growing in damp, well-draining soil.
Common Problems With Coffee Plant
Brown spots on leaves
Fungal diseases like leaf spot can give your coffee plant brown spots on its leaves. To remedy, remove affected leaves and stems and trim away inner branches so there is better air circulation for your plant.
Brown leaves that fall off
Leaves that turn brown and fall off usually do so from leaf scorch (otherwise known as "too much sun"). Fixing the former is merely a matter of giving your coffee plant more indirect light.
FAQ
Is coffee plant easy to care for?
Yes! Coffee plant is a super easy plant to grow. With the right light, water, and humidity, it's a welcome addition to your home.
How fast does coffee plant grow?
Coffee plant takes three to five years to reach maturity.
Can coffee plant grow indoors?
Absolutely! While when planted outdoors a coffee plant can reach 6-feet tall, most indoor growers prune them so they stay within a manageable size of 1 to 2 feet.
In their native habitat, coffee plants grow into medium-sized trees. But growers regularly prune the plants to be a more manageable size, especially when the plants are grown indoors. (Note that you can't grow coffee plants from the beans you buy in a store; those have been treated and roasted and will not sprout.) Even though coffee plants are vigorous growers, it will typically take a few years before your plant produces flowers and subsequent fruits. All parts of the plant are toxic to pets and humans—the beans are edible to humans.
Common Name Coffee plant, Arabian coffee
Botanical Name Coffea arabica
Family Rubiaceae, Madder
Plant Type Evergreen perennial
Mature Size 6–15 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Rich and moist
Soil pH 6.0-6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Ethiopia, tropical Africa
Toxicity All parts of the plant are toxic to dogs, cats, and people; beans are edible for people
Coffee Plant Care
The best environment in which to grow coffee plants is to mimic its natural conditions found on a tropical, mid-elevation mountainside: plenty of water with good drainage, high humidity, relatively cool temperatures, and rich, slightly acidic soil.
You can grow coffee plants outdoors if the conditions are similar to their natural environment. Indoors, coffee plants do best placed near a window but not in direct sunlight. Make sure to keep the plant away from drafts, such as those produced from air conditioning. Be prepared to water at least weekly to keep the soil moist.
Light
Coffee plants prefer dappled sunlight or full sunlight in weaker latitudes. They are actually understory plants (existing under the forest canopy) and do not thrive in direct, harsh sunlight. Coffee plants that are exposed to too much direct sunlight will develop leaf browning.
Soil
Plant coffee plants in a rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage. Coffee plants prefer acidic soil, so if your plant is not thriving add organic matter such as sphagnum peat moss to increase soil pH. The ideal pH range is closer to 6 to 6.5.
Water
These plants are water lovers and require both regular and ample watering. The soil should stay evenly moist but not waterlogged. Never allow the soil to dry out completely.3
Temperature and Humidity
The optimal average temperature range for coffee plants is a daytime temperature between 70 to 80 degrees and a nighttime temperature between 65 to 70 degrees. Higher (hotter) temperatures can accelerate growth, but higher temperatures are not ideal for growing plants for their beans. The fruits need to ripen at a slow, steady pace.
In addition, because these plants naturally grow on the sides of tropical mountains, they thrive in highly humid conditions which usually receive plenty of rain and fog. A humidity level of 50 percent or higher should suffice. If the air is too dry, the leaf edges might start to brown. Mist the plant daily to raise the humidity level.
Fertilizer
Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season every couple of weeks. Cut the fertilizer back to once a month or so in the winter.
Types of Coffee Plant
Coffea arabica 'Nana': This is a dwarf variety that only grows 12-inches tall, making it ideal to cultivate indoors.
Coffea canephora: Commonly known as robusta coffee, this species comes from sub-Saharan Africa. Its plants are robust; however, the coffee beans are less favored because they tend to have a stronger, harsher taste than arabica beans.
Coffea liberica: A variety native to central and western Africa, it was first discovered in Liberia. It produces large fruits with a higher caffeine content than arabica beans, but lower than robusta beans.
Pruning
Coffee plant needs little pruning, but should be cut back in the spring with clean, sharp gardening shears. This will help shape your plant, and it will grow back bushier!
Propagating Coffee Plants
To propagate coffee plant, you can do so from cuttings or air layers (a somewhat involved technique where you root branches still attached to the parent plant). The best time to take a cutting is in the early summer.
Select a straight shoot that's about 8 to 10 inches long and remove all but a pair of upper leaves.
Then, plant the cutting in a small pot of soilless potting mix, and keep the soil slightly moist.
When you can gently tug on the plant and feel resistance, you'll know roots have formed.
How to Grow Coffee Plant From Seed
While you can't germinate the coffee beans you buy in a store, you can sprout the ones that grow on your coffee plant. Called "cherries," rub away their flesh wash away any residue; dry thoroughly by sitting in the open air for a few weeks. Then, soak the cherries in water for 24 hours, and then sow in damp, but well-draining, sand. If you water daily, the cherries should germinate in two to four months. When they've germinated, carefully remove them and plant each one in well-draining, acidic soil. Water twice a week.
Potting and Repotting Coffee Plant
Repot your coffee plant every spring, gradually stepping up the pot size. Make sure the container has several drainage holes. If you want, you can prune the plant to the desired size, slightly restrict its pot size, and root prune to keep its growth manageable.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Coffee plants grown indoors will sometimes suffer from infestations of mealybugs, aphids, and mites.3 Signs of infestation include tiny webs, clumps of white powdery residue, or visible insects on the plant. Treat infestations with insecticides, or something organic like neem oil. as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading to the rest of your collection.
How to Get Coffee Plant to Bloom
Coffee plants bloom delicate, white flowers, once the plant is around three-years-old. If these blooms are pollinated—if your coffee plant is outdoors—the flowers will give way to little, red fruit (the "cherries") that are slightly soft to the touch.
To get your own coffee plant to bloom, make sure it's at the right temperature—70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day—has four to five hours of sunlight a day, and is growing in damp, well-draining soil.
Common Problems With Coffee Plant
Brown spots on leaves
Fungal diseases like leaf spot can give your coffee plant brown spots on its leaves. To remedy, remove affected leaves and stems and trim away inner branches so there is better air circulation for your plant.
Brown leaves that fall off
Leaves that turn brown and fall off usually do so from leaf scorch (otherwise known as "too much sun"). Fixing the former is merely a matter of giving your coffee plant more indirect light.
FAQ
Is coffee plant easy to care for?
Yes! Coffee plant is a super easy plant to grow. With the right light, water, and humidity, it's a welcome addition to your home.
How fast does coffee plant grow?
Coffee plant takes three to five years to reach maturity.
Can coffee plant grow indoors?
Absolutely! While when planted outdoors a coffee plant can reach 6-feet tall, most indoor growers prune them so they stay within a manageable size of 1 to 2 feet.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月21日
The coconut palm plant (Cocos nucifera) is characterized by a tall, gray-brown, slightly curved single trunk, sprawling green palm fronds, and, of course, coconuts. It also loves lots of warmth, sun, and humidity. This can be difficult but not impossible to replicate for an indoor palm.
The palm has a moderate growth rate. Outdoors it will mature and reach its full coconut production in around 15 to 20 years, and it can live for decades beyond that. Indoors these palms are generally short-lived, they remain small, and they often don’t produce fruit. They can be planted at any time of year.
Common Name Coconut palm
Botanical Name Cocos nucifera
Plant Type Perennial
Can You Grow Coconut Palm Inside?
If you're looking to transport yourself to the beach—even if only in your mind—then consider growing a coconut palm (Cocos nucifera) indoors. But a word of warning: This plant is fairly finicky to keep unless you live in its natural climate.
Native to islands in the Western Pacific, the coconut palm is probably what comes to mind for many when you say the phrase "palm tree." These trees thrive in warm, humid environments around the world. Thus, it's important to give your palm as much sunlight and warmth as possible when growing it indoors, along with ample humidity and moist but not soggy soil. Coconut palms also need regular fertilization.
In addition, you will have to repot your palm as it grows. It's also ideal to bring it outside as much as possible in warm weather, so it can receive direct sunlight. The palm generally does not require much pruning to maintain its form, but you can remove dead or diseased fronds as needed.
How to Grow Coconut Palm Indoors
Sunlight
Coconut palms thrive in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Even palms found in nature can struggle in the shade, so it's extremely important that any indoor coconut palm receives ample sunshine. Depending on its placement in your home, consider moving your plant's location throughout the day to "chase" the sun and ensure proper exposure.
Artificial Light
During the fall and winter months, consider placing your palm under a grow lamp or another artificial light source to help make up for the loss of sunlight.
Temperature and Humidity
Coconut palms prefer temperatures that are at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. They grow best in temperatures between 85- and 95-degrees Fahrenheit and they might fail to thrive if the temperature dips below 64 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity is an important factor, too. Maintain a moist environment for your palm with the addition of an in-room humidifier, as well as frequent spritzing of the plant with warm water. You also can keep the container on a tray of pebbles and water to raise the humidity around the plant. Just make sure the bottom of the container isn't touching the water.
Watering
Like many plants that love warmth and humidity, the coconut palm is a thirsty tree. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy by saturating it with warm water once or twice a week. Make sure the container does not become waterlogged, as this can result in root rot.
Fertilizer
Feed your palm year-round with a liquid fertilizer. Coconut palms are known to have several nutrient deficiencies, including a lack of phosphorus, nitrogen, manganese, and boron. So seek out a fertilizer blend specifically made for palm trees to supplement these losses, and follow label instructions for the amount and frequency of fertilization.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning of your coconut palm is only necessary when there are decaying or dead leaves. Gently cut these from the tree with a sharp knife or a pair of pruning shears.
Container and Size
Coconut palms will grow to a robust size, so start with a pot that of about 3 gallons. As it grows, you'll need a pot that holds at least 10 gallons of soil. This will need to be a quite sturdy pot to handle the pressure of the large root system, so look for something that won't give under pressure, such as a sturdy plastic or even a well-made wooden barrel.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Coconut palms are used to growing in a variety of soil conditions and are therefore not terribly picky about their planting mixture. That said, soil that closely mimics the coconut palm's natural environment is always best. A well-draining palm soil mix works well for potted coconut palms. Additionally, you can add a layer of mulch to the top of the soil to help it retain moisture.
Potting and Repotting Coconut Palm
Sprouted coconuts can be potted in 3-gallon containers with about 12 inches of soil. Their root balls are fairly small and shallow to start, and as a result, they don't need a lot of soil in the early growing months. However, once your coconut palm's roots grow to be about 6 to 8 inches long, repot the plant into a vessel that holds at least 10 gallons of soil. A clay container with ample drainage holes is best to allow excess soil moisture to escape through the container walls and bottom.
Moving Coconut Palm Outdoors for the Summer
Coconut palms thrive in the heat. They want to be in temperatures of no less than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The hotter the better! As soon as the temperatures rise to that level, take your coconut palm outdoors. There is no need to acclimate it to the warmer weather.
Considerations
Take care to keep your coconut palm safe from lower temperatures. Anything about 64 degrees Fahrenheit or below can damage the plant.
When to Bring Coconut Palm Back Indoors
Let your coconut palm enjoy the heat and sunlight for as long as possible. When temperatures begin to dip below 64 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it's time to bring the tree in to avoid damage.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate coconut palms?
If you can't find a coconut palm at a nursery, you can still grow one indoors using—you guessed it—a coconut. You can start this process at any point in the year. To sprout a coconut palm, start with a coconut that still has some of its husk on and sounds full of water when you shake it. Then take these steps:
Place the coconut in a bucket of room temperature water, and soak for up to three days to help jumpstart the germination process.
Next, bury the nut in a moist but well-draining soil mixture, leaving the top half exposed above the soil.
Move the pot to a warm, well-lit area, and continually water it every three days or so to keep the soil lightly moist.
With the right environment, you should see a seedling appear through the shell of the coconut within three to six months.
What plant pests are common to coconut palms?
In their native habitats, coconut palms are fairly resistant to insect predators. But in the home, you might see common household pests, including mealybugs and spider mites, on the leaves. They usually can be treated with insecticidal soap.
How do you harvest the coconuts?
Unfortunately, a coconut palm grown indoors will likely not reach a size that allows it to bear fruit. If you do happen to get coconuts, harvest them by cutting them at the stem with a sharp knife.
The palm has a moderate growth rate. Outdoors it will mature and reach its full coconut production in around 15 to 20 years, and it can live for decades beyond that. Indoors these palms are generally short-lived, they remain small, and they often don’t produce fruit. They can be planted at any time of year.
Common Name Coconut palm
Botanical Name Cocos nucifera
Plant Type Perennial
Can You Grow Coconut Palm Inside?
If you're looking to transport yourself to the beach—even if only in your mind—then consider growing a coconut palm (Cocos nucifera) indoors. But a word of warning: This plant is fairly finicky to keep unless you live in its natural climate.
Native to islands in the Western Pacific, the coconut palm is probably what comes to mind for many when you say the phrase "palm tree." These trees thrive in warm, humid environments around the world. Thus, it's important to give your palm as much sunlight and warmth as possible when growing it indoors, along with ample humidity and moist but not soggy soil. Coconut palms also need regular fertilization.
In addition, you will have to repot your palm as it grows. It's also ideal to bring it outside as much as possible in warm weather, so it can receive direct sunlight. The palm generally does not require much pruning to maintain its form, but you can remove dead or diseased fronds as needed.
How to Grow Coconut Palm Indoors
Sunlight
Coconut palms thrive in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Even palms found in nature can struggle in the shade, so it's extremely important that any indoor coconut palm receives ample sunshine. Depending on its placement in your home, consider moving your plant's location throughout the day to "chase" the sun and ensure proper exposure.
Artificial Light
During the fall and winter months, consider placing your palm under a grow lamp or another artificial light source to help make up for the loss of sunlight.
Temperature and Humidity
Coconut palms prefer temperatures that are at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. They grow best in temperatures between 85- and 95-degrees Fahrenheit and they might fail to thrive if the temperature dips below 64 degrees Fahrenheit. High humidity is an important factor, too. Maintain a moist environment for your palm with the addition of an in-room humidifier, as well as frequent spritzing of the plant with warm water. You also can keep the container on a tray of pebbles and water to raise the humidity around the plant. Just make sure the bottom of the container isn't touching the water.
Watering
Like many plants that love warmth and humidity, the coconut palm is a thirsty tree. Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy by saturating it with warm water once or twice a week. Make sure the container does not become waterlogged, as this can result in root rot.
Fertilizer
Feed your palm year-round with a liquid fertilizer. Coconut palms are known to have several nutrient deficiencies, including a lack of phosphorus, nitrogen, manganese, and boron. So seek out a fertilizer blend specifically made for palm trees to supplement these losses, and follow label instructions for the amount and frequency of fertilization.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning of your coconut palm is only necessary when there are decaying or dead leaves. Gently cut these from the tree with a sharp knife or a pair of pruning shears.
Container and Size
Coconut palms will grow to a robust size, so start with a pot that of about 3 gallons. As it grows, you'll need a pot that holds at least 10 gallons of soil. This will need to be a quite sturdy pot to handle the pressure of the large root system, so look for something that won't give under pressure, such as a sturdy plastic or even a well-made wooden barrel.
Potting Soil and Drainage
Coconut palms are used to growing in a variety of soil conditions and are therefore not terribly picky about their planting mixture. That said, soil that closely mimics the coconut palm's natural environment is always best. A well-draining palm soil mix works well for potted coconut palms. Additionally, you can add a layer of mulch to the top of the soil to help it retain moisture.
Potting and Repotting Coconut Palm
Sprouted coconuts can be potted in 3-gallon containers with about 12 inches of soil. Their root balls are fairly small and shallow to start, and as a result, they don't need a lot of soil in the early growing months. However, once your coconut palm's roots grow to be about 6 to 8 inches long, repot the plant into a vessel that holds at least 10 gallons of soil. A clay container with ample drainage holes is best to allow excess soil moisture to escape through the container walls and bottom.
Moving Coconut Palm Outdoors for the Summer
Coconut palms thrive in the heat. They want to be in temperatures of no less than 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The hotter the better! As soon as the temperatures rise to that level, take your coconut palm outdoors. There is no need to acclimate it to the warmer weather.
Considerations
Take care to keep your coconut palm safe from lower temperatures. Anything about 64 degrees Fahrenheit or below can damage the plant.
When to Bring Coconut Palm Back Indoors
Let your coconut palm enjoy the heat and sunlight for as long as possible. When temperatures begin to dip below 64 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it's time to bring the tree in to avoid damage.
FAQ
Is it easy to propagate coconut palms?
If you can't find a coconut palm at a nursery, you can still grow one indoors using—you guessed it—a coconut. You can start this process at any point in the year. To sprout a coconut palm, start with a coconut that still has some of its husk on and sounds full of water when you shake it. Then take these steps:
Place the coconut in a bucket of room temperature water, and soak for up to three days to help jumpstart the germination process.
Next, bury the nut in a moist but well-draining soil mixture, leaving the top half exposed above the soil.
Move the pot to a warm, well-lit area, and continually water it every three days or so to keep the soil lightly moist.
With the right environment, you should see a seedling appear through the shell of the coconut within three to six months.
What plant pests are common to coconut palms?
In their native habitats, coconut palms are fairly resistant to insect predators. But in the home, you might see common household pests, including mealybugs and spider mites, on the leaves. They usually can be treated with insecticidal soap.
How do you harvest the coconuts?
Unfortunately, a coconut palm grown indoors will likely not reach a size that allows it to bear fruit. If you do happen to get coconuts, harvest them by cutting them at the stem with a sharp knife.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月15日
The cobra lily (Darlingtonia californica) is a unique and eye-catching plant thanks to its dramatic leaves that resemble the heads of cobra snakes. Its curling leaves rise from the base of the plant and round out into hooded foliage. Along with its almost startling appearance, these carnivorous plants also happen to have voracious appetites and will feed on insects as well as small vertebrates.
Native to California and Oregon1, the cobra lily is often found growing in distinct groupings in boggy areas that are devoid of nutrition. Their hooded leaves secrete an aroma that attracts insects and then allows the plant to gather fuel from trapping and digesting their prey. Once inside, it's difficult for insects to escape. The plant will secretes digestive enzymes to help break down the animal matter. Unlike many other pitcher plants, because of their hooded shape, cobra lily plants are not able to collect rainwater to trap prey.
These plants can spread asexually through runners and stolons, and they flower infrequently. The cobra lily is considered to be a true one-of-a-kind plant and possesses an exceptional structure and beauty.
Botanical Name Darlingtonia californica
Common Name Cobra lily
Plant Type Carnivorous
Mature Size Up to 4 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH 6-8
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red petals
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area North America
Cobra Lily Plant Care
Cobra lily plants require warm climates, full sun, and consistently wet and bog-like conditions in order to grow, and this can be difficult to replicate in a home garden. As such, these plants are considered to be difficult to cultivate, particularly outside of their native area. In order to successfully grow Darlingtonia californica in your own garden, the key is mimicking its native conditions as closely as possible.
Light
Cobra lilies will grow best in either full sun or partial shade. They will thrive when the roots are kept cooler than the rest of the plant. In full sun they tend to appear shorter and redder, while in partial shade conditions these plants grow taller and greener. Darlingtonia californica does, however, need a balanced, even light distribution in order to promote vibrant colors on its sepals.
Water
Quite possibly the most crucial element of cobra lily care is water, and these plants are particular about the type they receive. Rainwater is always the best option, but if watering at home you'll want to use spring, distilled, or purified (via reverse osmosis) water. Cobra lilies are sensitive to the chemicals and minerals found in tap water.
These plants also prefer cool water, and some gardeners even place ice cubes on the soil and allow them to melt to add additional moisture and cool the plant's roots. This is particularly important on days when high temperatures soar above 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Soil
While proper irrigation is important to successfully grow cobra lily plants, the soil also has to be just right. Many gardeners opt for peat moss, perlite, and either lava rock or pumice to help create a soil mixture that allows for some cooling of the root system.
Temperature and Humidity
Though they do require cooler temperatures, humidity levels won't necessarily impact the growth of your cobra lily. However, it's recommended that humidity levels be kept at about 50 percent, which will help prevent the plant from drying out.
Darlingtonia californica will not do well in excessively warm temperatures and prefer locations with cooler temperatures at night (in the 50s or 60s).
Fertilizer
The carnivorous cobra lily plants don't require fertilization as they feed themselves by ingesting insects and other pests.
Propagating Cobra Lily
Propagation can be done by cutting the stolons of these plants, which will produce more surviving buds when compared to seed planting. It also leads to a larger, healthier breed of cobra lily plants.
Seeds can also be used, but they will have to be kept refrigerated until the first quarter of the year (preferably February) and then planted in cold temperatures in sphagnum moss.
Pruning
The cobra lily doesn't require extensive pruning, but you can cut back dead stems and leaves on an as-needed basis.
Growing in Containers
Since cool temperatures are so important when growing Darlingtonia californica, you should opt for a plant container that is light in color and has proper drainage. Plastic pots, terracotta clay, and glazed ceramics are all acceptable options, as long as the container you choose does not absorb heat.
Native to California and Oregon1, the cobra lily is often found growing in distinct groupings in boggy areas that are devoid of nutrition. Their hooded leaves secrete an aroma that attracts insects and then allows the plant to gather fuel from trapping and digesting their prey. Once inside, it's difficult for insects to escape. The plant will secretes digestive enzymes to help break down the animal matter. Unlike many other pitcher plants, because of their hooded shape, cobra lily plants are not able to collect rainwater to trap prey.
These plants can spread asexually through runners and stolons, and they flower infrequently. The cobra lily is considered to be a true one-of-a-kind plant and possesses an exceptional structure and beauty.
Botanical Name Darlingtonia californica
Common Name Cobra lily
Plant Type Carnivorous
Mature Size Up to 4 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH 6-8
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red petals
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area North America
Cobra Lily Plant Care
Cobra lily plants require warm climates, full sun, and consistently wet and bog-like conditions in order to grow, and this can be difficult to replicate in a home garden. As such, these plants are considered to be difficult to cultivate, particularly outside of their native area. In order to successfully grow Darlingtonia californica in your own garden, the key is mimicking its native conditions as closely as possible.
Light
Cobra lilies will grow best in either full sun or partial shade. They will thrive when the roots are kept cooler than the rest of the plant. In full sun they tend to appear shorter and redder, while in partial shade conditions these plants grow taller and greener. Darlingtonia californica does, however, need a balanced, even light distribution in order to promote vibrant colors on its sepals.
Water
Quite possibly the most crucial element of cobra lily care is water, and these plants are particular about the type they receive. Rainwater is always the best option, but if watering at home you'll want to use spring, distilled, or purified (via reverse osmosis) water. Cobra lilies are sensitive to the chemicals and minerals found in tap water.
These plants also prefer cool water, and some gardeners even place ice cubes on the soil and allow them to melt to add additional moisture and cool the plant's roots. This is particularly important on days when high temperatures soar above 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Soil
While proper irrigation is important to successfully grow cobra lily plants, the soil also has to be just right. Many gardeners opt for peat moss, perlite, and either lava rock or pumice to help create a soil mixture that allows for some cooling of the root system.
Temperature and Humidity
Though they do require cooler temperatures, humidity levels won't necessarily impact the growth of your cobra lily. However, it's recommended that humidity levels be kept at about 50 percent, which will help prevent the plant from drying out.
Darlingtonia californica will not do well in excessively warm temperatures and prefer locations with cooler temperatures at night (in the 50s or 60s).
Fertilizer
The carnivorous cobra lily plants don't require fertilization as they feed themselves by ingesting insects and other pests.
Propagating Cobra Lily
Propagation can be done by cutting the stolons of these plants, which will produce more surviving buds when compared to seed planting. It also leads to a larger, healthier breed of cobra lily plants.
Seeds can also be used, but they will have to be kept refrigerated until the first quarter of the year (preferably February) and then planted in cold temperatures in sphagnum moss.
Pruning
The cobra lily doesn't require extensive pruning, but you can cut back dead stems and leaves on an as-needed basis.
Growing in Containers
Since cool temperatures are so important when growing Darlingtonia californica, you should opt for a plant container that is light in color and has proper drainage. Plastic pots, terracotta clay, and glazed ceramics are all acceptable options, as long as the container you choose does not absorb heat.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月07日
Cineraria is a hybrid plant, a cross between Pericallis cruenta and P. lanata, species that are native to the Azores and Canary Island. Cineraria is a tender perennial, hardy in zones 9 to 11, but it is usually grown as an annual or short-lived seasonal houseplant. Known for a wide range of colors and long-lasting blooms, Cineraria comes in vibrant shades of pink, red, purple, blue, and many bi-colors. Cineraria is a mound-forming plant with large leaves that becomes covered with blossoms during its blooming season. It prefers cool weather, so as a garden plant it is usually grown for spring blossoms, then removed from the garden in favor of summer-blooming annuals after the bloom period is over. Many gardeners prefer to use them for container culture rather than as in-ground bedding plants.
As outdoor plants, cineraria plants are usually planted from nursery starts in the spring, which have been commercially grown to provide cool-season spring blooming. But these plants bloom about four months after seed germination, so it's possible to dictate the bloom period by carefully selecting the time when you sow seeds. Sowing in late summer, for example, can give indoor flowering plants for Christmas.
Common Name Cineraria, Florist's cineraria
Botanical Name Pericallis × hybrida
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Tender perennial, usually grown as annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial to full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-draining
Soil pH Acidic (5.5–6.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer; blossoms 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination
Flower Color Various (no yellow)
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Areas Nursery hybrid; parent species are from the Azores and Canary Islands
Cineraria Care
The flamboyant colors of cineraria, as well their versatile daisy shape, have made them increasingly popular in the United States in recent years as a decorative annual. But if you happen to live in a very warm zone (USDA 9 to 11) you can try growing them as perennials. As an annual, they hold their color for a decent period of time, so make sure they stay evenly moist and deadhead them continually to encourage new buds, and you'll have weeks of glorious colorful blooms from spring through summer.
Light
Cineraria will do best in filtered sunlight or partial shade conditions and it resents full sunlight. If grown as a short-lived indoor plant, however, it likes more light.
Soil
Cineraria like a rich, moist, slightly acidic soil that has good drainage. Amendments such as peat moss and coffee grounds can help create good coil conditions for this somewhat fussy plant. When grown indoors, a standard potting mix works well, as it contains a high percentage of peat which ensures an acidic pH.
Water
Cineraria needs constant moisture but it still needs to breathe. Water well and frequently at the base of the plant, checking the soil to make sure it feels moist but not soggy. Steady watering in hot weather is a must. But at the same time, cineraria doesn't like constantly soggy soil, which can encourage root and crown rot diseases. Thus, it's critical that frequent watering is paired with well-draining soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Cineraria is temperamental about temperature. The preferred temp is between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If temps dip below 35 degrees at night, the plants will die, and if they go above 80 degrees, they'll stop blooming. In the heat of summer, make sure cineraria plants stay in shade; it may be necessary to bring potted plants indoors during very hot days.
When grown indoors, cineraria plants like a cool environment; they will bloom longer with
daytime temperatures of about 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temps of 50 to 55 degrees.
These flowers thrive in an environment that is humid yet not quite tropical. Even if your location is not consistently humid, you can approximate the climate needs of this plant by keeping the soil around it consistently moist. However, avoid making the ground too soggy as this can cause root rot. The best way to provide this humidity for both indoor and outdoor plantings is to create a pebble tray. Spread a layer of pebbles or pea gravel on a low dish or tray and place it beneath the container. Keep filled with water to up to a 1/2 inch in depth (that may mean refreshing it daily if your house has dry air). As that water evaporates it will create an evenly humid atmosphere around the plant. Misting is not recommended as it may overwhelm the flower petals.
Fertilizer
Feed cineraria plants with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every two weeks, beginning at the point where flower buds appear. These plants have a steady appetite, but don't want to be gorged with fertilizer.
Types of Cineraria
Cineraria is usually offered in various named color mixes. Some popular ones include the 'Senetti' mix, which includes blue, light blue, magenta, pink, and bicolors; 'Cruenta Amigo' mix, including blue, red, purple, magenta, and white flowers, often with white eyes; 'Satellite Mix', featuring ground-hugging 8-inch plants; and the 'Early Perfection' series, with compact 8- to 10-inch plants ideal for small pots.
Pruning
Deadheading spent flowers will both keep the plants looking tidy and extend the bloom season by prompting the plant to produce additional flower buds. After flowering is complete, these plants are usually pulled out and replaced with summer-flowering annuals.
Propagating Cineraria
Cineraria is usually propagated from seed, but you can also propagate new plants for indoor winter growing by taking stem cuttings in fall:
Cut a 4- to 6-inch stem tip, preferably one without flowers. Remove all but the top leaves.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then plant it in a small pot filled with ordinary potting soil.
Moisten the soil and place the planted cutting in a large plastic bag, taking care that the plastic does not touch the leaves.
Place the cutting in a cool location with good indirect light. Periodically check the cutting to see if roots have formed (tug on the stem; with a rooted cutting you'll be able to feel resistance).
When roots have formed, remove the plastic bag and continue to grow the cutting in a relatively cool location with bright light but out of the direct sun. Propagated in this manner, the new plant should flower within about three months.
How to Grow Cineraria From Seed
Popular in the commercial trade as a cut flower, cineraria is most commonly propagated by seed. Plant the seeds in small pots or flat trays containing commercial seed-starter mix, lightly pressing the seeds into the soil. Do not cover them, as they need light to germinate. Keep the seeds moist; germination generally takes 14 to 21 days. As seedings develop their true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots to continue growing. The plants will bloom 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination.
If grown as garden perennials, these plants will readily reseed themselves and colonize. If you wish to prevent this, deadhead the flowers before the seeds mature.
Potting and Repotting Cineraria
When grown in containers, cineraria does well in an ordinary commercial potting mix with a high peat content. For best bloom, they prefer to be somewhat root-bound, so smallish containers with good drainage are usually sufficient.
These are not easy plants to grow indoors as houseplants, as they require careful control of temperatures (cool) and humidity (high). Give indoor potted plants more light than is required for outdoor plants.
Overwintering
Once they flower, cineraria is reluctant to bloom again, so the plants are often removed from the garden once the flowering is complete.
If you live in a climate where cineraria can be grown as garden perennials, you may want to leave the plants in place so that they will self-seed and create new volunteer plants.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cineraria is subject to quite a number of plant pests and diseases. Indoor plants are often more susceptible than outdoor garden plants.
Aphids, thrips, spider mites, white fly and leaf miners can all feast on cineraria. The best treatment is a spray with a horticultural oil such as neem oil, or a chemical pesticide.
Disease issues include powdery mildew, gray mold, fungal rot of the crown or roots, and various plant viruses. Keeping soil moisture levels and humidity levels correct will prevent many disease problems, but badly affected plants may need to be removed.
How to Get Cineraria to Bloom
Failure to bloom can usually be traced to a lack of water or nutrients. Cineraria is a relatively demanding plant that needs a half-strength feeding every two weeks. Frequent light feeding is the key to good flowering. These plants also require soil that is consistently moist but not soggy.
Common Problems With Cineraria
The trickiest part of growing cineraria is getting the moisture levels right. Too much water induces root or crown rot, while too little water will prevent the profuse blooming that these plants are famous for. They are also quite sensitive to temperature, preferring coolish conditions and often succumbing when conditions are too warm. It's best not to grow cineraria at all if you live in very hot climate, and excessively dry or rainy conditions are also problematic.
FAQ
How was cineraria developed?
These, cheery, colorful daisy-like flowers are in the Asteraceae (aster) family, which also includes sunflowers, daisies, strawflowers and ageratum. The parent species (Pericallis cruenta and P. lanata) were first discovered by horticulturists from the British Royal Gardens in 1777, growing in the Azores and Canary Islands on cool ocean cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. The varieties now popular in the trade are derived from the hybrid cross of these two species.
How can I use this plant in the landscape?
Cineraria is most often used as an annual, either for garden beds or more often as a container plant for patios, decks, or window boxes, or as a short-lived indoor flowering plant. There is nothing subtle about cineraria, so they are popular whenever you want to make a bold color statement. The cobalt blue shades are especially popular in summer to create red, white, and blue arrangements for Independence Day.
How long does Cineraria live?
Even when it can be grown as perennial in warm climates, cineraria does not readily rebloom after flowering, so in most areas, this short-lived perennial is simply discarded after the flowering is complete.
How do I force cineraria into winter blooming as a houseplant?
Cineraria is a seasonal bloomer that generally flowers 16 to 18 weeks after seeds germinate and sprout. Thus, it's easy enough to dictate the bloom period by choosing the proper time to plant the seeds. For Christmas bloom, for example, you should plant seeds in late August to early September. Remember, though, that it's tricky to provide the proper cool and humid conditions when growing this plant indoors. This is why many people seeking winter-blooming plants simply buy them in season from a houseplant supplier.
As outdoor plants, cineraria plants are usually planted from nursery starts in the spring, which have been commercially grown to provide cool-season spring blooming. But these plants bloom about four months after seed germination, so it's possible to dictate the bloom period by carefully selecting the time when you sow seeds. Sowing in late summer, for example, can give indoor flowering plants for Christmas.
Common Name Cineraria, Florist's cineraria
Botanical Name Pericallis × hybrida
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Tender perennial, usually grown as annual
Mature Size 6–12 in. tall, 9–12 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial to full shade
Soil Type Moist but well-draining
Soil pH Acidic (5.5–6.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal bloomer; blossoms 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination
Flower Color Various (no yellow)
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Areas Nursery hybrid; parent species are from the Azores and Canary Islands
Cineraria Care
The flamboyant colors of cineraria, as well their versatile daisy shape, have made them increasingly popular in the United States in recent years as a decorative annual. But if you happen to live in a very warm zone (USDA 9 to 11) you can try growing them as perennials. As an annual, they hold their color for a decent period of time, so make sure they stay evenly moist and deadhead them continually to encourage new buds, and you'll have weeks of glorious colorful blooms from spring through summer.
Light
Cineraria will do best in filtered sunlight or partial shade conditions and it resents full sunlight. If grown as a short-lived indoor plant, however, it likes more light.
Soil
Cineraria like a rich, moist, slightly acidic soil that has good drainage. Amendments such as peat moss and coffee grounds can help create good coil conditions for this somewhat fussy plant. When grown indoors, a standard potting mix works well, as it contains a high percentage of peat which ensures an acidic pH.
Water
Cineraria needs constant moisture but it still needs to breathe. Water well and frequently at the base of the plant, checking the soil to make sure it feels moist but not soggy. Steady watering in hot weather is a must. But at the same time, cineraria doesn't like constantly soggy soil, which can encourage root and crown rot diseases. Thus, it's critical that frequent watering is paired with well-draining soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Cineraria is temperamental about temperature. The preferred temp is between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If temps dip below 35 degrees at night, the plants will die, and if they go above 80 degrees, they'll stop blooming. In the heat of summer, make sure cineraria plants stay in shade; it may be necessary to bring potted plants indoors during very hot days.
When grown indoors, cineraria plants like a cool environment; they will bloom longer with
daytime temperatures of about 65 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temps of 50 to 55 degrees.
These flowers thrive in an environment that is humid yet not quite tropical. Even if your location is not consistently humid, you can approximate the climate needs of this plant by keeping the soil around it consistently moist. However, avoid making the ground too soggy as this can cause root rot. The best way to provide this humidity for both indoor and outdoor plantings is to create a pebble tray. Spread a layer of pebbles or pea gravel on a low dish or tray and place it beneath the container. Keep filled with water to up to a 1/2 inch in depth (that may mean refreshing it daily if your house has dry air). As that water evaporates it will create an evenly humid atmosphere around the plant. Misting is not recommended as it may overwhelm the flower petals.
Fertilizer
Feed cineraria plants with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every two weeks, beginning at the point where flower buds appear. These plants have a steady appetite, but don't want to be gorged with fertilizer.
Types of Cineraria
Cineraria is usually offered in various named color mixes. Some popular ones include the 'Senetti' mix, which includes blue, light blue, magenta, pink, and bicolors; 'Cruenta Amigo' mix, including blue, red, purple, magenta, and white flowers, often with white eyes; 'Satellite Mix', featuring ground-hugging 8-inch plants; and the 'Early Perfection' series, with compact 8- to 10-inch plants ideal for small pots.
Pruning
Deadheading spent flowers will both keep the plants looking tidy and extend the bloom season by prompting the plant to produce additional flower buds. After flowering is complete, these plants are usually pulled out and replaced with summer-flowering annuals.
Propagating Cineraria
Cineraria is usually propagated from seed, but you can also propagate new plants for indoor winter growing by taking stem cuttings in fall:
Cut a 4- to 6-inch stem tip, preferably one without flowers. Remove all but the top leaves.
Dip the cut end in rooting hormone, then plant it in a small pot filled with ordinary potting soil.
Moisten the soil and place the planted cutting in a large plastic bag, taking care that the plastic does not touch the leaves.
Place the cutting in a cool location with good indirect light. Periodically check the cutting to see if roots have formed (tug on the stem; with a rooted cutting you'll be able to feel resistance).
When roots have formed, remove the plastic bag and continue to grow the cutting in a relatively cool location with bright light but out of the direct sun. Propagated in this manner, the new plant should flower within about three months.
How to Grow Cineraria From Seed
Popular in the commercial trade as a cut flower, cineraria is most commonly propagated by seed. Plant the seeds in small pots or flat trays containing commercial seed-starter mix, lightly pressing the seeds into the soil. Do not cover them, as they need light to germinate. Keep the seeds moist; germination generally takes 14 to 21 days. As seedings develop their true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots to continue growing. The plants will bloom 16 to 18 weeks after seed germination.
If grown as garden perennials, these plants will readily reseed themselves and colonize. If you wish to prevent this, deadhead the flowers before the seeds mature.
Potting and Repotting Cineraria
When grown in containers, cineraria does well in an ordinary commercial potting mix with a high peat content. For best bloom, they prefer to be somewhat root-bound, so smallish containers with good drainage are usually sufficient.
These are not easy plants to grow indoors as houseplants, as they require careful control of temperatures (cool) and humidity (high). Give indoor potted plants more light than is required for outdoor plants.
Overwintering
Once they flower, cineraria is reluctant to bloom again, so the plants are often removed from the garden once the flowering is complete.
If you live in a climate where cineraria can be grown as garden perennials, you may want to leave the plants in place so that they will self-seed and create new volunteer plants.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Cineraria is subject to quite a number of plant pests and diseases. Indoor plants are often more susceptible than outdoor garden plants.
Aphids, thrips, spider mites, white fly and leaf miners can all feast on cineraria. The best treatment is a spray with a horticultural oil such as neem oil, or a chemical pesticide.
Disease issues include powdery mildew, gray mold, fungal rot of the crown or roots, and various plant viruses. Keeping soil moisture levels and humidity levels correct will prevent many disease problems, but badly affected plants may need to be removed.
How to Get Cineraria to Bloom
Failure to bloom can usually be traced to a lack of water or nutrients. Cineraria is a relatively demanding plant that needs a half-strength feeding every two weeks. Frequent light feeding is the key to good flowering. These plants also require soil that is consistently moist but not soggy.
Common Problems With Cineraria
The trickiest part of growing cineraria is getting the moisture levels right. Too much water induces root or crown rot, while too little water will prevent the profuse blooming that these plants are famous for. They are also quite sensitive to temperature, preferring coolish conditions and often succumbing when conditions are too warm. It's best not to grow cineraria at all if you live in very hot climate, and excessively dry or rainy conditions are also problematic.
FAQ
How was cineraria developed?
These, cheery, colorful daisy-like flowers are in the Asteraceae (aster) family, which also includes sunflowers, daisies, strawflowers and ageratum. The parent species (Pericallis cruenta and P. lanata) were first discovered by horticulturists from the British Royal Gardens in 1777, growing in the Azores and Canary Islands on cool ocean cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. The varieties now popular in the trade are derived from the hybrid cross of these two species.
How can I use this plant in the landscape?
Cineraria is most often used as an annual, either for garden beds or more often as a container plant for patios, decks, or window boxes, or as a short-lived indoor flowering plant. There is nothing subtle about cineraria, so they are popular whenever you want to make a bold color statement. The cobalt blue shades are especially popular in summer to create red, white, and blue arrangements for Independence Day.
How long does Cineraria live?
Even when it can be grown as perennial in warm climates, cineraria does not readily rebloom after flowering, so in most areas, this short-lived perennial is simply discarded after the flowering is complete.
How do I force cineraria into winter blooming as a houseplant?
Cineraria is a seasonal bloomer that generally flowers 16 to 18 weeks after seeds germinate and sprout. Thus, it's easy enough to dictate the bloom period by choosing the proper time to plant the seeds. For Christmas bloom, for example, you should plant seeds in late August to early September. Remember, though, that it's tricky to provide the proper cool and humid conditions when growing this plant indoors. This is why many people seeking winter-blooming plants simply buy them in season from a houseplant supplier.
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