文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月17日
Candy corn plant is a small semi-woody evergreen shrub that derives its name from the color and shape of the flowers, which closely mimic the familiar bulk candy by the same name. These are clumping plants with narrow leaves that cover upright red stems, from which bloom the yellow and red tubular flowers that resemble kernels of candy corn.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
Candy corn plant (Cuphea micropetala) is member of the Cuphea genus containing more than 250 perennials and semi-woody shrubs native to tropical and temperate regions. This species is perennial in warm climate zones (8 to 12), but it is often grown as an annual in cooler climates. It is frequently planted in border beds and cottage gardens, or as an edging plant along walkways, and can also be used as a container plant on decks and patios. This plant is also great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
How to Grow a Zebra Plant Indoors
Botanical Name Cuphea micropetala
Common Name Candy corn plant
Plant Type Semi-woody shrub, often planted as an annual
Mature Size 3 feet tall, with a 2-foot spread
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, well-drained soil
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.5; slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to fall
Flower Color Orange and yellow
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11, USDA
Native Area Mexico
How to Grow Candy Corn Plants
Gardeners who have experienced a mature candy corn plant will tell you it's a centerpiece in any pollinator garden, attracting scores of butterflies and hummingbirds with its tubular, nectar-rich blossoms. Candy corn plants are easy for beginners, as they require little care beyond proper sitting in a warm, sunny garden. They do best in ordinary, well-drained soil.
These plants may become leggy as the growing season progresses, and pinching them back can rejuvenate them and improve the blooms.
Light
Full sun will reward you with the highest bloom count on your candy corn plants. Plants will also grow in partial sun, though with fewer blooms.
Soil
In spite of its delicate blooms, candy corn plant is a tough species that will tolerate clay soil as well as the salty conditions of a beachside garden. Candy corn plants do not grow well in wet or boggy soils.
Water
Once candy corn plants are established, they are drought-tolerant plants. An inch of water per week in the growing season is adequate to keep plants thriving.
Temperature and Humidity
As natives of Mexico, candy corn plants relish hot weather. They aren't picky about humidity, and will grow in both dry or humid climates.
Fertilizer
Candy corn plants are known for their rugged nature and their ability to thrive in poor soils. Supplemental fertilizer isn't necessary, and may cause plants to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fewer blooms. However, spreading 1 inch of good compost around the plants each spring does improve the vigor and blooming of the plants.
Propagating Candy Corn Plant
Increase your candy corn plant collection by taking softwood cuttings from plants in the spring. Cut about 4 inches from a non-blooming stem, and insert the stem into moist potting soil. Place in a partially shady location, and keep constantly moist until roots develop, which takes about six weeks.
If you live in a warm region and your candy corn plant survives from past seasons, you can propagate it by division. This also rejuvenates plants that get too woody after a few years in the same location.
Pruning
Because the flowers grow all along the stems of candy corn plants, you can prune the plant to give it a tidy shape without sacrificing any flowers during the growing season. Cut the plants back hard in late winter to encourage a new flush of growth in the spring.
Growing in Containers
Candy corn plants can grow in large containers or urns outdoors, using an all-purpose potting soil. (They are generally too large to grow in pots as indoor plants.) Choose a container at least 18 inches to accommodate these large plants. Repotting isn't necessary for plants grown as annuals, but when growing them as perennials in warmer climates, it may help to repot them every few years as they fill their pots with dense roots.
Growing From Seeds
As candy corn plant flowers fade, look for papery seed capsules and collect the brownish-green seeds. Seeds won't grow in temperatures lower than 70 degrees F. Seeds need light to germinate, so press lightly on the soil surface. Keep moist until germination occurs, usually within two weeks.
Compared With Cigar Plant, Candy Corn Vine
Candy corn plant is closely related genetically to the cigar plant (Cuphea ignea), with whom it shares a similar size and flower shape. The difference is principally the flower color. As the name suggests, cigar flower resembles the glowing embers of a burning cigar, with a warm red color and none of the yellow hues found in the blooms of candy corn plant.
Candy corn plant is also frequently mistaken for candy corn vine (Manettia luteorubra). Although they are entirely different species from unrelated genera, the flower resemblance is quite close; however, candy corn vine (sometimes called firecracker vine) is a twining, climbing plant. The two plants can make pleasing companions in a sunny landscape, and are sometimes planted together.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月14日
Native to the North American grasslands, the silene plant is renowned for its colorful early summer blossoms. Most often referred to as the catchfly, the plant typically blooms in shades of pink, magenta, white, and red. The plant's sticky leaves and stems (which are what give this flower its memorable "catchfly" moniker) are actually not strong enough to catch a fly, nor do these flowers attract the pesky insects. They are, however, a favorite amongst hummingbirds and butterflies, so silene makes a perfect addition to either container plantings or pollinator gardens, which will offer a medium green foliage for many months after the plant first blooms.
Though the plant often grows as an annual in both meadow and prairie settings, there are some silene varieties with strong perennial tendencies, so they'll reliably pop up in the same spot each spring. These varieties will self-seed readily. The silene's foliage makes its grand debut in early spring and continues to persist through the late summer, however be aware that some varieties may go completely dormant in the heat of summer.
An ideal plant for any landscape, silene has a natural ability to withstand dry conditions. It does have a preference for the sun, and makes a great addition to rock gardens, curbside planting areas, and other full-sun garden beds. Try planting silene with options like aster, bee balm, cosmos, alyssum, and calendula for a truly stunning colorful flower display that lasts from the first days of summer all the way through fall.
You may find silene plants listed by one of their other common names, which include Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink, Maiden's Tears, Rose of Heaven, Wild Pink, and None-So-Pretty.
Botanical Name Silene
Common Name Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink
Plant Type Perennial (sometimes annual)
Mature Size Three-quarters of an inch to 4 feet tall, depending on variety
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade, depending on variety
Soil Type Neutral to acidic, rich in humus
Soil pH 5-7
Bloom Time Spring and Summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, sometimes blue
Hardiness Zones 5-8
Native Area North American grasslands
How to Grow Silene Plants
The great news is that not only are these plants beautiful, but silene is also easy and economical to start from a seed planted in the garden in the springtime (as well as from transplants that were purchased at your local garden center). They're relatively easy to maintain—the requirements for successfully planting silene include good drainage, regular watering, and only occasional feed.
After the flowers begin to bloom in the summer, you'll want to allow the flower stalks to stand upright, as it will encourage the plant to self-seed. However, you should plan to replace the perennial in your landscape every couple of years, as their flower production tends to decrease as they age.1
Light
Silene grows best in either full sun or partial shade. If planting in Zones 7 and up, be sure to place your silene plants where they will receive some afternoon shade.
Soil
It's absolutely essential to plant silene in fertile, well-drained soil.
Water
These plants will suffer (and ultimately die out) in overly wet conditions, so be sure not to subject silene to an abundance of water.2 Ensure that the soil is completely dry in between your regular waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
This is a plant species that should be sown at the start of spring for summer flowering, or in autumn for spring flowering, as they will struggle to survive in extreme temperatures (as well as through excessive winter moisture).
Fertilizer
You can give your silene plants an added boost by incorporating a granulated starter fertilizer (or an all-purpose feed) to encourage blooming.
Potting and Repotting
You should consider starting the seeds indoors, such as in flats with a high-quality potting soil. Timing is everything—you'll want to plant silene a minimum of eight weeks before the last expected frost, but then allow approximately 15 to 25 days for the seedlings to sprout before either transferring them into your garden or into a larger pot or container.
Propagating Silene
The propagation for silene can be done with either seeds or cutting. Seeds can be sown outdoors right after they're collected, or you can store, pretreat, and sow them later. Mature plants should be divided in either the late fall or early spring by removing their outer rosettes. Keep in mind that silene is a plant that tends to decline quickly after flowering, so it's usually best to flag the plant.3
Some Varieties of Silene
Silene Latifolia (White Campion)
Silene Viscaria (Sticky Catchfly)
Silene Marmorensis (Marble Mountain Catchfly)
Pruning
Depending on the variety of silene, pruning will require snipping faded blooms individually or waiting until the blooming period is over before removing the entire flower stalk. The pruning process will help keep your silene plant's energy focused on growth as opposed to seed production.
Though the plant often grows as an annual in both meadow and prairie settings, there are some silene varieties with strong perennial tendencies, so they'll reliably pop up in the same spot each spring. These varieties will self-seed readily. The silene's foliage makes its grand debut in early spring and continues to persist through the late summer, however be aware that some varieties may go completely dormant in the heat of summer.
An ideal plant for any landscape, silene has a natural ability to withstand dry conditions. It does have a preference for the sun, and makes a great addition to rock gardens, curbside planting areas, and other full-sun garden beds. Try planting silene with options like aster, bee balm, cosmos, alyssum, and calendula for a truly stunning colorful flower display that lasts from the first days of summer all the way through fall.
You may find silene plants listed by one of their other common names, which include Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink, Maiden's Tears, Rose of Heaven, Wild Pink, and None-So-Pretty.
Botanical Name Silene
Common Name Campion, Catchfly, Weed Silene, Fire Pink
Plant Type Perennial (sometimes annual)
Mature Size Three-quarters of an inch to 4 feet tall, depending on variety
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade, depending on variety
Soil Type Neutral to acidic, rich in humus
Soil pH 5-7
Bloom Time Spring and Summer
Flower Color Red, white, pink, sometimes blue
Hardiness Zones 5-8
Native Area North American grasslands
How to Grow Silene Plants
The great news is that not only are these plants beautiful, but silene is also easy and economical to start from a seed planted in the garden in the springtime (as well as from transplants that were purchased at your local garden center). They're relatively easy to maintain—the requirements for successfully planting silene include good drainage, regular watering, and only occasional feed.
After the flowers begin to bloom in the summer, you'll want to allow the flower stalks to stand upright, as it will encourage the plant to self-seed. However, you should plan to replace the perennial in your landscape every couple of years, as their flower production tends to decrease as they age.1
Light
Silene grows best in either full sun or partial shade. If planting in Zones 7 and up, be sure to place your silene plants where they will receive some afternoon shade.
Soil
It's absolutely essential to plant silene in fertile, well-drained soil.
Water
These plants will suffer (and ultimately die out) in overly wet conditions, so be sure not to subject silene to an abundance of water.2 Ensure that the soil is completely dry in between your regular waterings.
Temperature and Humidity
This is a plant species that should be sown at the start of spring for summer flowering, or in autumn for spring flowering, as they will struggle to survive in extreme temperatures (as well as through excessive winter moisture).
Fertilizer
You can give your silene plants an added boost by incorporating a granulated starter fertilizer (or an all-purpose feed) to encourage blooming.
Potting and Repotting
You should consider starting the seeds indoors, such as in flats with a high-quality potting soil. Timing is everything—you'll want to plant silene a minimum of eight weeks before the last expected frost, but then allow approximately 15 to 25 days for the seedlings to sprout before either transferring them into your garden or into a larger pot or container.
Propagating Silene
The propagation for silene can be done with either seeds or cutting. Seeds can be sown outdoors right after they're collected, or you can store, pretreat, and sow them later. Mature plants should be divided in either the late fall or early spring by removing their outer rosettes. Keep in mind that silene is a plant that tends to decline quickly after flowering, so it's usually best to flag the plant.3
Some Varieties of Silene
Silene Latifolia (White Campion)
Silene Viscaria (Sticky Catchfly)
Silene Marmorensis (Marble Mountain Catchfly)
Pruning
Depending on the variety of silene, pruning will require snipping faded blooms individually or waiting until the blooming period is over before removing the entire flower stalk. The pruning process will help keep your silene plant's energy focused on growth as opposed to seed production.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月01日
Acorus (Acorus spp.) is a perennial aquatic plant with sword-like leaves. It is often used along the borders of landscape ponds and other water features. Acorus is a perennial that spreads by underground rhizomes; it is not an ornamental grass. It should be planted in the late fall or early spring.
Native to Japan and China, Acorus generally grows in USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, with a few cultivars appropriate as far north as zones 4 and as far south as zone 11. The plant also goes by the common names of sweet flag and calamus. The term "flag" derives from the Middle English word flagge, meaning "reed."
The tallest acorus top out at about 39-inches tall, while the smallest dwarf cultivars can be as short as 3 inches. The species is slow-growing but often needs to be controlled (usually through division) over time, to prevent excessive spread. The leaves are typically light green to golden-yellow in color and can help brighten dim garden areas. Small greenish-yellow flowers appear on spikes in spring and early summer, followed by red berries. The "sweet" label comes from the pleasant, spicy aroma the leaves produce when crushed.
Botanical Name Acorus
Common Name Acorus, sweet flag, calamus
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial, rhizome
Mature Size 3 in. to 3 ft. tall, 6 in. to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist to wet, variety of types
Soil pH 6.5-7.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Greenish-yellow (not showy)
Hardiness Zones 6-9 (USDA)
Native Area Japan, China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Acorus Care
Acorus is a nearly effortless landscape plant to grow. Plant it in full sun to partial shade, in a location that is moist to constantly wet. It often performs its best right at the edge of a pond or stream. When growing acorus directly in a pond or other standing water, first place the plant in a container, then set it in water less than 4-inches deep.
This is one of the rare garden plants that has no serious insect or disease problems. Leaf scorch can occur if the soil is not consistently moist or wet. Although slow-growing, it can be somewhat invasive in ideal conditions. Where this is a concern, growing it in submerged containers can be the best strategy.
This plant is a good choice for stabilizing damp areas prone to erosion, such as the banks along creeks or landscape ponds. The bright color is good for brightening shady areas. It can be also grown in containers within landscape ponds or other water features. Acorus works well as a ground cover in boggy areas, similar to liriope plants.
Light
This water-loving plant also likes a fair amount of sun. It grows well in full to part shade, but more sun usually means that the soil needs more water to prevent it from drying out.
Soil
Acorus is tolerant of a variety of soil types, including heavy clay, but it prefers fertile soil that stays moist at all times.
Water
This is an aquatic plant, so constant or near-constant contact with water is essential. If the plants are not growing at the water's edge, water as needed to keep the soil moist. Leaf scorch is an indication of too little water.
Temperature and Humidity
Native to hot, humid climates of Asia, acorus can tolerate the heat and humidity in any U.S. region; dryness is another matter. But as long as the plant gets enough water, it will do fine. Protection from the hot afternoon sun can be beneficial in very hot weather. Leaves can brown at the edges in cold winter weather.
Fertilizer
Feed acorus as needed with a slow-release, slow- to medium-rate fertilizer, applied according to the product directions. If the plants are near a pond with fish, be aware of any fertilizer's effect on the water.
Varieties
'Ogon' features variegated leaves with a green stripe running along one side and a yellow stripe along the other.
'Variegatus' grows to about 30 inches in height.
'Pusilus Minimus Arueus' has gold-colored foliage and spreads to form a dense mat, it's a diminutive variety.
Pruning
Acorus rarely needs any pruning. If it starts to look unkempt, you can tidy it up with some clean garden shears.
Propagating Acorus
Divide acorus in spring every three or four years. The small divisions can be planted in small pots to mature for a year or so before transplanting them into permanent garden locations. When separating from the mother plant, be sure to get a decent-size rhizome with the separated portion.
Potting and Repotting Acorus
Acorus is a whimsical addition to your container garden. Choose a container where your sweet flag grass will live for several years, so 4-inches larger than your plant's root balls, giving it room to grow. Use a high-quality potting medium, and be sure your container has adequate drainage holes.
Remove your acorus from the container it comes in and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Add some gravel to the bottom of your container, then cover with potting medium. Place the plant on the soil and fill the pot with potting medium to 1 inch from the top of the container. Water well, until it drips through the drainage holes.
Native to Japan and China, Acorus generally grows in USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9, with a few cultivars appropriate as far north as zones 4 and as far south as zone 11. The plant also goes by the common names of sweet flag and calamus. The term "flag" derives from the Middle English word flagge, meaning "reed."
The tallest acorus top out at about 39-inches tall, while the smallest dwarf cultivars can be as short as 3 inches. The species is slow-growing but often needs to be controlled (usually through division) over time, to prevent excessive spread. The leaves are typically light green to golden-yellow in color and can help brighten dim garden areas. Small greenish-yellow flowers appear on spikes in spring and early summer, followed by red berries. The "sweet" label comes from the pleasant, spicy aroma the leaves produce when crushed.
Botanical Name Acorus
Common Name Acorus, sweet flag, calamus
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial, rhizome
Mature Size 3 in. to 3 ft. tall, 6 in. to 2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Moist to wet, variety of types
Soil pH 6.5-7.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Greenish-yellow (not showy)
Hardiness Zones 6-9 (USDA)
Native Area Japan, China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Acorus Care
Acorus is a nearly effortless landscape plant to grow. Plant it in full sun to partial shade, in a location that is moist to constantly wet. It often performs its best right at the edge of a pond or stream. When growing acorus directly in a pond or other standing water, first place the plant in a container, then set it in water less than 4-inches deep.
This is one of the rare garden plants that has no serious insect or disease problems. Leaf scorch can occur if the soil is not consistently moist or wet. Although slow-growing, it can be somewhat invasive in ideal conditions. Where this is a concern, growing it in submerged containers can be the best strategy.
This plant is a good choice for stabilizing damp areas prone to erosion, such as the banks along creeks or landscape ponds. The bright color is good for brightening shady areas. It can be also grown in containers within landscape ponds or other water features. Acorus works well as a ground cover in boggy areas, similar to liriope plants.
Light
This water-loving plant also likes a fair amount of sun. It grows well in full to part shade, but more sun usually means that the soil needs more water to prevent it from drying out.
Soil
Acorus is tolerant of a variety of soil types, including heavy clay, but it prefers fertile soil that stays moist at all times.
Water
This is an aquatic plant, so constant or near-constant contact with water is essential. If the plants are not growing at the water's edge, water as needed to keep the soil moist. Leaf scorch is an indication of too little water.
Temperature and Humidity
Native to hot, humid climates of Asia, acorus can tolerate the heat and humidity in any U.S. region; dryness is another matter. But as long as the plant gets enough water, it will do fine. Protection from the hot afternoon sun can be beneficial in very hot weather. Leaves can brown at the edges in cold winter weather.
Fertilizer
Feed acorus as needed with a slow-release, slow- to medium-rate fertilizer, applied according to the product directions. If the plants are near a pond with fish, be aware of any fertilizer's effect on the water.
Varieties
'Ogon' features variegated leaves with a green stripe running along one side and a yellow stripe along the other.
'Variegatus' grows to about 30 inches in height.
'Pusilus Minimus Arueus' has gold-colored foliage and spreads to form a dense mat, it's a diminutive variety.
Pruning
Acorus rarely needs any pruning. If it starts to look unkempt, you can tidy it up with some clean garden shears.
Propagating Acorus
Divide acorus in spring every three or four years. The small divisions can be planted in small pots to mature for a year or so before transplanting them into permanent garden locations. When separating from the mother plant, be sure to get a decent-size rhizome with the separated portion.
Potting and Repotting Acorus
Acorus is a whimsical addition to your container garden. Choose a container where your sweet flag grass will live for several years, so 4-inches larger than your plant's root balls, giving it room to grow. Use a high-quality potting medium, and be sure your container has adequate drainage holes.
Remove your acorus from the container it comes in and gently loosen the roots with your fingers. Add some gravel to the bottom of your container, then cover with potting medium. Place the plant on the soil and fill the pot with potting medium to 1 inch from the top of the container. Water well, until it drips through the drainage holes.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月23日
Butterfly weed is a must-have plant for gardeners looking to coax the namesake winged insects into the garden. This clump-forming perennial grows from tuberous roots to a height of 1 to 2 feet and is characterized by glossy-green, lance-shaped leaves and clusters of bright orange-to-yellow blooms that are rich with nectar and pollen. A type of milkweed, butterfly weed is generally planted in late spring after the soil is workable. It is fairly slow to become established and may take as much as three years before it flowers. When it finally does flower, its clusters of bright orange-yellow flowers will display from late spring until late summer. Unlike other milkweeds, butterfly weed does not have caustic milky sap, but it does produce the characteristic seed pods that release silky-tailed seeds to disperse on the wind.
Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets.
Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed
Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa
Family Asclepiadaceae
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom time Summer
Flower color Orange, yellow
Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.)
Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans
Butterfly Weed Care
Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes.
Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely.
Light
If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too.
Soil
Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Water
During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates.
Temperature and Humidity
Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms.
Types of Butterfly Weed
There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations:
'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers.
'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers.
‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S.
Pruning Butterfly Weed
Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring.
How to Propagate Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it:
In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot,
Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections.
Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind.
How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed
Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you.
Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead.
Overwintering
Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.
The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide.
How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom
In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play.
It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming.
Common Problems With Butterfly Weed
Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed.
Self-Seeding
The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots.
Rabbit Damage
Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
Butterfly weed is considered mildly toxic to humans and to animals.1 But because it has much lower levels of the toxic sap found in standard milkweed, butterfly weed is regarded as a safer plant in homes with children or pets.
Common Name Butterfly weed, butterfly milkweed, pleurisy root, orange milkweed
Botanical Name Asclepias tuberosa
Family Asclepiadaceae
Plant type Herbaceous perennial
Mature size 1–2 ft. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Dry, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acid to neutral (6.0 to 7.0)
Bloom time Summer
Flower color Orange, yellow
Hardiness zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native area North America (eastern and southeastern U.S.)
Toxicity Mildly toxic to animals and humans
Butterfly Weed Care
Beloved for its ability to attract a variety of helpful (and beautiful) insects to the garden, butterfly weed is an easy-to-nurture herbaceous perennial that can also be found growing as a native wildflower in a slew of untamed environments, such as meadows, prairies, and forest clearings. Typically grown from seeds you sow directly in the garden, butterfly weed does not require much tending to in order to thrive, prospering well in everything from clay soil to dry, rocky soil, and even in drought-like conditions.
Its seed pods will turn brown towards the end of the growing season (early autumn) and if left on the plant, they will burst and spread seeds throughout your garden to emerge as new volunteer plants the following spring. While the plant can take up to three years to fully mature and produce flowers, its blooms will gradually grow denser with each season that passes.
Like other types of milkweed, butterfly weed produces large seed pods that disperse small seeds with hairs that disperse on the wind. Thus, it can be an invasive plant that spreads every which way unless you break off the seed pods before they mature and split. Be careful when using this plant in gardens near wild prairie or meadow areas, as spreading is likely.
Light
If possible, choose a spot in your garden that boasts lots of bright sunlight daily, as this plant loves to soak up the rays. Full sun is definitely your best bet, but his hardy plant can tolerate a few hours of shade, too.
Soil
Butterfly weed can prosper in a variety of soil conditions and compositions, from clay to gravel, and it generally prefers a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Water
During its first year of life (or until new plants start showing mature growth), you should maintain a moist soil environment for butterfly weed, giving it about 1 inch of water per week through combined rainfall and irrigation. Once the plant appears to be well-established, you can cut back to watering it only occasionally, as it now prefers dry soil. Mature plants can do well with just monthly watering in all but the driest climates.
Temperature and Humidity
Butterfly weed thrives in a variety of different temperature and humidity settings, growing well in zones 3 to 9. Generally, the plant emerges in late spring, hitting its peak bloom during the warmer summer months and drying on the stem throughout the autumn and winter. It handles high-humidity and arid climates equally well, provided it gets adequate soil moisture.
Fertilizer
Butterfly weed is a low-maintenance plant that does not require any additional fertilization—in fact, doing so can harm the plant, making it excessively leggy and reducing blooms.
Types of Butterfly Weed
There are a number of named cultivars of this plant. Most varieties, as well as the native species, are orange. But some popular varieties offer color variations:
'Hello Yellow' is a variety with bright yellow flowers.
'Gay Butterflies' has decidedly reddish flowers.
‘Western Gold Mix’has golden-orange flowers and is bred especially for the alkaline soils of the western U.S.
Pruning Butterfly Weed
Though butterfly weed does not need much pruning throughout the year, it can be cut back to the ground ahead of the winter season. In late autumn, you'll notice the leaves on the butterfly weed are beginning to yellow and the stems are drying out and turning brown. This is a sign that the plant is entering dormancy for the season—at this point, you can take a clean set of pruning shears and cut the plant to the ground, where it will stay until it reemerges in spring.
How to Propagate Butterfly Weed
Butterfly weed is very easy to propagate from seed, but because seeds can take two to three years to mature into flowering plants, many gardeners choose to propagate from root cuttings. Here's how to do it:
In fall after flowering is complete, use a trowel or shovel, dig up the plant's long taproot,
Using a sharp knife, cut the taproot into 2-inch-long sections.
Plant the pieces in the desired location in a vertical orientation, with the tops just barely covered with soil. These plants do not like to be moved, so make sure to plant the pieces with this in mind.
How to Grow Butterfly Weed From Seed
Typically, the easiest and most successful way to add butterfly weed to your garden is to grow it from seed. Plant fresh seeds in fall for growth the following spring, or allow any established butterfly weeds already in your garden to do the work for you.
Beginning in late summer or early fall, the plants should start to develop seed pods at the base of the pollinated blooms. If left on the stem, the pods will eventually burst and the seeds inside will be blown throughout your garden, allowing them to establish themselves in the soil in time for the following year. If you'd rather have more control over the eventual location of any new butterfly weed plants, you can remove the seed pods from the plant before they burst open and simply plant new seeds by hand instead.
Overwintering
Overwintering butterfly weed is a simple matter of cutting off the plant stem near ground level as soon as the plant succumbs to cold temperatures in the fall or early winter. There is no harm to leaving the plant stalks in place, though this encourages rampant self-seeding, which is usually not desired. Don't mulch over the root crowns, as this can encourage rot.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
In most circumstances, butterfly weed is largely trouble-free, but it can be susceptible to root rot if it is planted in dense soil that gets too much moisture. It can also be susceptible to fungal diseases such as rust and other leaf spots, though these are usually merely cosmetic and not fatal.
The plant can be susceptible to aphid damage, which usually is controlled by lady beetles and other predator insects unless the infestation is severe, at which point you can spray with an insecticidal soap or pesticide.
How to Get Butterfly Weed to Bloom
In general, butterfly weed is not a difficult plant to cultivate and should bloom freely on its own once it has reached maturity (which can take up to three years). That being said, if you're struggling to get your butterfly weed to bloom, there could be a few factors at play.
It's important to get your watering cadence right for the plant. It should be watered regularly until new growth starts to appear (this includes leaves and stems, not just blooms), at which point you can decrease the frequency with which you water. Additionally, butterfly weed plants should not be fertilized. While fertilizer may work to make other plants bloom, it can actually harm butterfly weed and discourage blooming.
Common Problems With Butterfly Weed
Other than the root rot that can appear in dense, wet soils, there are only a couple of common problems with butterfly weed.
Self-Seeding
The most common issue with butterfly weed is the rampant self-seeding that happens if the seed pods aren't removed before they burst and scatter their seeds. This can be prevented by removing the seed pods before they dry and burst open. The volunteer plants that appear due to self-seeding should be removed before they establish long tap roots.
Rabbit Damage
Butterfly weed is very attractive to feeding rabbits. Rodent repellant granules or sprays can provide some prevention, but metal fencing around the plants is the best solution.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月13日
The adjective that is most often used to describe bur oak is “majestic” and it fits. This long-lived native oak reaches a height and spread of up to 90 feet, hence it is not the tree that you would want to plant in your average urban back yard. But if you have space, it is an excellent shade tree for a sprawling landscape.
The fall foliage of bur oak is unremarkable, but the tree makes up for it with its deeply ridged bark and corky twigs that stand out, especially during the winter. The gray bark has deep furrows and grooves that become more distinct as the tree ages. Bur oaks are long-lived; some specimens are estimated to be 300 years old.
Landscape architects value bur oak as a shade tree because of its symmetrical canopy. It’s also very tough. Bur oak is not affected by air pollution, it adapts to all kinds of soils, even compacted types with poor drainage, and it is drought-tolerant.
In common with all oaks, the bur oak has acorns—whose bur-like covers gave the tree its name. The large acorns attract wildlife who cart them off and gobble them up. Blue jays, deer, squirrels, and other small mammals eat the acorns, and the acorns taste better to wildlife than those from red oaks because they contain less tannin making them less bitter.
Botanical Name Quercus macrocarpa
Common Name Bur oak, mossycup oak
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 70 to 90 height, 60 to 90 feet width
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, silt, clay, loamy
Soil pH 5.5 to 7.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Inconspicuous
Hardiness Zones 3-8
Native Area North America
Bur Oak Care
The most important thing to successfully grow bur oak is to make sure that there is sufficient space, both for the tree’s significant height and width and for the roots. Bur oaks have a deep taproot and their expansive roots grow more deep than wide. Though they are as a result of their wide roots less likely to damage sidewalks, it's still possible because the absorbing roots occur in the top 12" of soil.
Another important consideration when choosing a location for a bur oak is that while the tree is tough, it does not tolerate salt spray well. For that reason, it should not be planted next to a road or driveway with winter maintenance.
Light
Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light.
Soil
The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage.
Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season.
Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH.
Water
A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system.
Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species.
Fertilizer
If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree.
Propagating Bur Oak
If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns.
Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet.
Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one.
Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot.
Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out. Light
Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light.
Soil
The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage.
Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season.
Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH.
Water
A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system.
Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species.
Fertilizer
If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree.
Propagating Bur Oak
If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns.
Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet.
Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one.
Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot.
Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out.
The fall foliage of bur oak is unremarkable, but the tree makes up for it with its deeply ridged bark and corky twigs that stand out, especially during the winter. The gray bark has deep furrows and grooves that become more distinct as the tree ages. Bur oaks are long-lived; some specimens are estimated to be 300 years old.
Landscape architects value bur oak as a shade tree because of its symmetrical canopy. It’s also very tough. Bur oak is not affected by air pollution, it adapts to all kinds of soils, even compacted types with poor drainage, and it is drought-tolerant.
In common with all oaks, the bur oak has acorns—whose bur-like covers gave the tree its name. The large acorns attract wildlife who cart them off and gobble them up. Blue jays, deer, squirrels, and other small mammals eat the acorns, and the acorns taste better to wildlife than those from red oaks because they contain less tannin making them less bitter.
Botanical Name Quercus macrocarpa
Common Name Bur oak, mossycup oak
Plant Type Deciduous tree
Mature Size 70 to 90 height, 60 to 90 feet width
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Sandy, silt, clay, loamy
Soil pH 5.5 to 7.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Inconspicuous
Hardiness Zones 3-8
Native Area North America
Bur Oak Care
The most important thing to successfully grow bur oak is to make sure that there is sufficient space, both for the tree’s significant height and width and for the roots. Bur oaks have a deep taproot and their expansive roots grow more deep than wide. Though they are as a result of their wide roots less likely to damage sidewalks, it's still possible because the absorbing roots occur in the top 12" of soil.
Another important consideration when choosing a location for a bur oak is that while the tree is tough, it does not tolerate salt spray well. For that reason, it should not be planted next to a road or driveway with winter maintenance.
Light
Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light.
Soil
The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage.
Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season.
Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH.
Water
A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system.
Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species.
Fertilizer
If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree.
Propagating Bur Oak
If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns.
Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet.
Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one.
Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot.
Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out. Light
Bur oak prefers full sun with at least six hours of direct light.
Soil
The tree can adapt to many different soils, both in terms of texture and structure. It grows in sand, silt, and clay, and can withstand compacted soils and poor drainage.
Occasional flooding of the planting site is not a problem. However, the tree won’t do well when there is repeated and extended flooding, especially during the growing season.
Bur oak does best in alkaline soils with a high or neutral pH.
Water
A newly planted bur oak needs to be watered deeply and regularly for at least two years after planting. In the absence of rain, continue to water the tree also during the third year growing season to make sure it develops a strong root system.
Once the tree is established, it is drought-tolerant thanks to its taproot that lets it draw water from the deeper layers of the soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Bur oak is well adapted to the continental climate of its native range with its humid summers and subzero winters. The tree can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Texas. It is one of the most cold-tolerant oak species.
Fertilizer
If at planting time, the soil is amended with organic matter, or the tree starts out in soil with a good nutrient balance, bur oak does not need extra fertilizer. In fact, a high-nitrogen fertilizer will harm the tree.
Propagating Bur Oak
If you don’t mind tending to it for a few years before the seedling is large enough to be transplanted, you can grow bur oaks from acorns.
Inspect the acorns for cracks and holes and choose only fully intact ones. Soak them in water for 24 hours, which helps you identify hollow ones that float on top. These should be discarded. Remove the caps if they haven’t fallen off on their own yet.
Fill a one-gallon planting container with a drain hole with the same soil as the location where you intend to plant the tree and mix in about one to two trowels full of organic matter or compost. The container might seem much too large at first but keep in mind that bur oaks are finicky to transplant because of their tap root so you want to avoid transplanting the seedling to a larger pot when it outgrows the original one.
Place two to three of the soaked viable acorns in the container, laying them on their sides. Cover with one to two inches of soil. Water regularly and deeply. The acorns will start to sprout in about one month. Once the seedlings emerge, only keep the strongest one and gently pull out the others with their acorn. Protect the young roots from root burn by shielding the exterior of the container from the sun either with wood, heavy fabric or a second, larger pot.
Keep the container outside year-round on a patio or in a location where it is easy to monitor. During the growing season, water the seedling regularly and make sure the soil never dries out.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月07日
If you are unfamiliar with Tillandsia or Tillys, as they are affectionately called by air plant aficionados, this article is going to introduce you to one of the genera’s most popular species.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this.
The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name.
The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant.
Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option.
For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants.
Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa
Common Name Bulbous Air Plant
Plant Type perennial herbaceous
Mature Size 4–7 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade
Soil Type None
Soil pH None
Bloom Time Once per lifetime
Flower Color Violet
Hardiness Zones 9–11
Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care
Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium.
Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light
Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant.
Soil
Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot.
Water
Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture.
The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for.
For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety.
Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties
The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care.
The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’.
Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant.
Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa
It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position.
Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月03日
The Brunnera macrophylla plant goes by several common names, including Siberian bugloss, false forget-me-not, brunnera, large-leaf brunnera, and heartleaf. The common name "bugloss" is derived from the Greek words for "ox" and "tongue," as the leaves are thought to resemble an ox tongue. The bright blue flowers may have you doing a double-take with their resemblance to the blooms of the real forget-me-not. Whatever you call it, this long-lasting and low-maintenance species has always been a popular shade plant.
This clumping perennial spreads from rhizomatous roots and has dark-green heart-shaped leaves. Small blue flowers with white centers rise on stems in spring; the bloom period lasts for about four weeks. Although Siberian bugloss is a slow grower, the species will eventually spread out and make a nice ground cover. The flashier variegated varieties are a bit slower to fill out, but provide interest and color all season. Siberian bugloss is generally planted from potted nursery plants in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. It grows rather slowly, which is an advantage since it doesn't demand frequent division and rarely becomes invasive.
Botanical Name Brunnera macrophylla
Common Names Siberian bugloss, brunnera, large-leaf brunnera, heartleaf, false forget-me-not
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 12–18 in. tall; 18–30 in. spread
Sun Exposure Full, partial, shade
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral to acidic, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Blue
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe
Siberian Bugloss Care
Siberian bugloss is best planted in a part-shade to a full-shade location in a rich soil that has excellent drainage. In a good environment, this is a largely care-free plant that requires little more than division every three or four years.
Siberian bugloss is often planted in shade gardens, woodland settings, and near ponds. It can make a great ground cover and looks beautiful lining a path or border, although it can take a while to fill in.
Since deer do not often bother this plant, it makes a nice alternative to hostas. Companions with different textures and leaf shapes include hellebores, iris, hostas, bleeding heart, geraniums, and even late-blooming daffodils. Since Siberian bugloss prefers cool, moist shade, slugs may become a problem, but varieties with thicker leaves are rarely bothered.
Light
Siberian bugloss prefers shady conditions, though it can survive in full sun if it gets more moisture. But the variegated leaves can easily burn in direct sunlight and plants may go dormant in extremely sunny conditions.
Soil
This plant is not too particular about soil pH, but it does like rich, moist soil. Lots of organic matter and organic mulch will help it become established quickly and keep it growing well. Siberian bugloss does not tolerate dry soils.
Water
Keep new plants well watered. While Siberian bugloss plants prefer constant moisture, they will become more drought-tolerant once they are established. Mulching will help maintain the cool, moist soil that Brunnera prefers.
Temperature and Humidity
Though rated for hardiness zones 3 to 8, Siberian bugloss prefers regions with cool summers. You may have trouble with it in zones that have especially hot and humid summer conditions (zones 7 to 8).
Fertilizer
These plants prefer rich soil but do not require supplemental feeding, as long as the soil is not too poor or dry.
Siberian Bugloss Varieties
The species form of Brunnera macrophylla, with solid green leaves, is readily available. It has lovely sprays of blue flowers and is an extremely tough plant. In addition, there are several cultivars available:
'Diane's Gold' has golden-yellow leaves and blue flowers.
'Hadspen Cream' has extra-large leaves with irregular white outer margins.
'Jack Frost' has silvery leaves with green veins.
'Langtrees' (aka 'Silver Spot') is a very hardy plant with leaves that are dotted with silver.
'Looking Glass' has silver leaves that look almost metallic.
'Queen of Hearts' is an updated version of 'Jack Frost', this cultivar boasts larger, bolder silvery leaves.
'Alexander's Great' boasts jumbo-sized dark green leaves veined in silvery-white.
Pruning
The older leaves may start to get tattered and can be cut back during the growing season to encourage new leaves to fill in. Don't cut the whole plant back to the ground in the fall—the leaves will help protect the crown during winter and you can easily clean away the old foliage in the spring when the new leaves begin to emerge.
If you do not want your plants to self-seed, deadhead as the flowers start to fade. If you would like to collect the seed to sow, allow the flowers to dry slightly, then cut and let them finish drying in a paper bag. The seeds will fall off as the flowers dry.
Propagating Siberian Bugloss
The best means of propagation is to simply dig up an established clump in early spring, divide it into healthy segments, and replant. Siberian bugloss can be short-lived, and dividing your plants every three to five years will keep them around longer.
Although the named cultivars may self-seed, the volunteers usually do not grow true to the parent plant and are best weeded out if you want to preserve the look of the parent. For example, volunteer seedlings of variegated plants often have solid green leaves.
Growing in Pots
This plant can be a great choice for containers that are placed in partial or full shade. The variegated leaf varieties will make a nice filler throughout the season. Many are hardy enough to remain in containers throughout the winter, with a little extra protection.v
This clumping perennial spreads from rhizomatous roots and has dark-green heart-shaped leaves. Small blue flowers with white centers rise on stems in spring; the bloom period lasts for about four weeks. Although Siberian bugloss is a slow grower, the species will eventually spread out and make a nice ground cover. The flashier variegated varieties are a bit slower to fill out, but provide interest and color all season. Siberian bugloss is generally planted from potted nursery plants in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. It grows rather slowly, which is an advantage since it doesn't demand frequent division and rarely becomes invasive.
Botanical Name Brunnera macrophylla
Common Names Siberian bugloss, brunnera, large-leaf brunnera, heartleaf, false forget-me-not
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 12–18 in. tall; 18–30 in. spread
Sun Exposure Full, partial, shade
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral to acidic, alkaline
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Blue
Hardiness Zones 3–8 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe
Siberian Bugloss Care
Siberian bugloss is best planted in a part-shade to a full-shade location in a rich soil that has excellent drainage. In a good environment, this is a largely care-free plant that requires little more than division every three or four years.
Siberian bugloss is often planted in shade gardens, woodland settings, and near ponds. It can make a great ground cover and looks beautiful lining a path or border, although it can take a while to fill in.
Since deer do not often bother this plant, it makes a nice alternative to hostas. Companions with different textures and leaf shapes include hellebores, iris, hostas, bleeding heart, geraniums, and even late-blooming daffodils. Since Siberian bugloss prefers cool, moist shade, slugs may become a problem, but varieties with thicker leaves are rarely bothered.
Light
Siberian bugloss prefers shady conditions, though it can survive in full sun if it gets more moisture. But the variegated leaves can easily burn in direct sunlight and plants may go dormant in extremely sunny conditions.
Soil
This plant is not too particular about soil pH, but it does like rich, moist soil. Lots of organic matter and organic mulch will help it become established quickly and keep it growing well. Siberian bugloss does not tolerate dry soils.
Water
Keep new plants well watered. While Siberian bugloss plants prefer constant moisture, they will become more drought-tolerant once they are established. Mulching will help maintain the cool, moist soil that Brunnera prefers.
Temperature and Humidity
Though rated for hardiness zones 3 to 8, Siberian bugloss prefers regions with cool summers. You may have trouble with it in zones that have especially hot and humid summer conditions (zones 7 to 8).
Fertilizer
These plants prefer rich soil but do not require supplemental feeding, as long as the soil is not too poor or dry.
Siberian Bugloss Varieties
The species form of Brunnera macrophylla, with solid green leaves, is readily available. It has lovely sprays of blue flowers and is an extremely tough plant. In addition, there are several cultivars available:
'Diane's Gold' has golden-yellow leaves and blue flowers.
'Hadspen Cream' has extra-large leaves with irregular white outer margins.
'Jack Frost' has silvery leaves with green veins.
'Langtrees' (aka 'Silver Spot') is a very hardy plant with leaves that are dotted with silver.
'Looking Glass' has silver leaves that look almost metallic.
'Queen of Hearts' is an updated version of 'Jack Frost', this cultivar boasts larger, bolder silvery leaves.
'Alexander's Great' boasts jumbo-sized dark green leaves veined in silvery-white.
Pruning
The older leaves may start to get tattered and can be cut back during the growing season to encourage new leaves to fill in. Don't cut the whole plant back to the ground in the fall—the leaves will help protect the crown during winter and you can easily clean away the old foliage in the spring when the new leaves begin to emerge.
If you do not want your plants to self-seed, deadhead as the flowers start to fade. If you would like to collect the seed to sow, allow the flowers to dry slightly, then cut and let them finish drying in a paper bag. The seeds will fall off as the flowers dry.
Propagating Siberian Bugloss
The best means of propagation is to simply dig up an established clump in early spring, divide it into healthy segments, and replant. Siberian bugloss can be short-lived, and dividing your plants every three to five years will keep them around longer.
Although the named cultivars may self-seed, the volunteers usually do not grow true to the parent plant and are best weeded out if you want to preserve the look of the parent. For example, volunteer seedlings of variegated plants often have solid green leaves.
Growing in Pots
This plant can be a great choice for containers that are placed in partial or full shade. The variegated leaf varieties will make a nice filler throughout the season. Many are hardy enough to remain in containers throughout the winter, with a little extra protection.v
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月01日
The show-stopping hanging bugle-shaped flowers of brugmansia make this plant a delight for any garden. Grown either as a woody shrub or small tree, brugmansia is a tropical plant native to Central and South America. Brugmansia is best planted in mid-spring when temperatures outdoors no longer drop below 50 degrees at night. The plant will grow very quickly, often growing between 24 to 36 inches a year. All parts of the brugmansia plant are toxic to humans, dogs, and cats.1 It is also an invasive plant in Australia, New Zealand, Central America, the Caribbean, and the Pacific Islands.
Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death
Botanical Name Brugmansia
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care
Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long.
In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance.
Light
Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive.
Soil
Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias.
Water
This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant.
Fertilizer
Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best.
Types of Brugmansia
Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color.
Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species.
Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela.
Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile.
Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar.
Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range.
Pruning
Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches.
If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Propagating Brugmansia
Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting:
You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone.
Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up.
Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water.
After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed
Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month.
Potting and Repotting Brugmansia
Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size.
Overwintering
Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice.
If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks.
Common Pests
Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests.
How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom
Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia
This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches
Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses.
Wilting Leaves
Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil.
Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor
Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
Common Name Brugmansia, trumpet of death
Botanical Name Brugmansia
Family Solanaceae
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 6–20 ft. tall, 3–15 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color White, yellow, orange, pink, peach
Hardiness Zones 8–10 (USDA)
Native Area South America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Brugmansia Care
Brugmansia can take the form of a shrub or small tree, depending on the area in which it's grown. Its leaves are 6 to 8 inches long, arranged alternately on the stems, and it's known for its spectacular drooping flowers, which can grow up to 20 inches long.
In cooler zones, brugmansia can be grown as a container plant and brought indoors when temperatures drop. The flowers produce a strong, fragrant scent, most noticeable at night. Hummingbirds are also drawn to its flowers and fragrance.
Light
Generally, brugmansia does well in a spot that boasts full sun. However, in especially hot or dry environments, it can stand to have a bit of shade, especially during the warmer afternoon hours. Regardless of the location, though, you should aim to allow the plant between six and eight hours of sunlight daily for it to thrive.
Soil
Brugmansia is perhaps least picky about the soil it grows in. It can exist happily in almost any blend, from sand and clay to loam and richly organic mixtures. The most important factor lies in the soil's drainage. Brugmansia does not like to be waterlogged but prefers consistently moist soil, so there's a delicate balance. If growing in pots, brugmansia will typically do well in a potting mix designed for azaleas and camellias.
Water
This is a very thirsty plant that needs to be watered well—and often. If growing brugmansia in a pot, ensure there are ample drainage holes at the base so the plant doesn't get waterlogged. Root rot can occur if the soil becomes soggy. The exact watering cadence for your plant will depend on the weather and the method of planting (container vs. in ground). Brugmansia needs more water when the weather is warm. Plants housed in a container may need to be watered twice a day during the peak of summer. Ultimately, never let the soil dry out, and you should aim to grant your plant at least three inches of water a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Generally, brugmansia can withstand moderate to warm temperatures and should not be kept outdoors if the temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an environment where fall or winter gets cold, plant your brugmansia in a container that you can move to a dark, frost-free place (like a garage) before the first frost of the season. You can allow it to go dormant.
Fertilizer
Like many other plants with large, spectacular blooms, brugmansia should be fertilized at least once a week (larger plants can even be fertilized two to three times a week). Use a water-soluble fertilizer, and avoid slow-release formulas, as these do not work fast enough for the plant. Bloom-boosting fertilizers, such as 15-30-15 or 10-50-10 mixture, are best.
Types of Brugmansia
Brugmansia species have distinctive, drooping flowers, and most have sweetly scented blooms at night. The biggest difference between species is color.
Brugmansia suaveolens: Native to Brazil; this cream-colored blooming plant is one of the most popular species.
Brugmansia aurea: This plant sports yellow blooms and is often called a golden trumpet. It's native to Ecuador and Venezuela.
Brugmansia sanguine: This red-flowering species lacks a scent and is commonly pollinated by long-billed hummingbirds. It is native to Colombia and Chile.
Brugmansia vulcanicola: Native to the Andean Mountains range from Colombia to Ecuador, this salmon-colored specimen is considered the rarest of the brugmansia. Its 'Rosa Lila' hybrid is a rose-colored cultivar.
Brugmansia arborea: This plant features the shortest trumpet flowers, often a whiter cream color than most. This plant is native to the countries along the Andes Mountains range.
Pruning
Although they do not require pruning, trimming brugmansia will keep the plant producing flowers constantly. If growing it as a small tree, begin to prune when the main trunk forms its first "Y" and choose a central leader as the trunk. Systematically prune away older branches and stems to encourage the plant to produce more branches. Flowers will eventually appear on the terminal ends of the stems. The best time to prune brugmansia is typically in the fall. Keep at least six to 10 nodes on the branches.
If your shrub is getting too tall, you can easily train a container-grown brugmansia tree into a smaller shrub size. Pruning your container brugmansia to a desired height or shape will not affect the size or frequency of the flowers.
Propagating Brugmansia
Brugmansia can be propagated through seeds and cuttings. The best time to get a stem cutting is in the morning. Attempt propagation in the spring for the best success. Stem cuttings are the best method because the plant matures quicker than from seed. Here's how to propagate from stem cutting:
You will need potting soil, a pot, gloves, pruning shears, and optionally, rooting hormone.
Don the gloves and cut a stem, measuring back 10 inches from the tip of the selected cutting. Make a cut 1/4-inch below a set of leaves using the pruning shears. Strip off the bottom set of leaves just above the cut to expose the leaf nodes.
Apply rooting hormone to the cut end and bury the cut end in moistened potting soil. Firmly pack the soil around the stem to hold it up.
Put the pot in a slightly shady spot, and cover the pot with plastic. Water the plant from the bottom by placing the pot with its bottom-set drainage holes in a tray of water.
After a few weeks, the cutting will develop a good root system and be transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
How to Grow Brugmansia From Seed
Moisten a quality potting mix in a pot and lay the seed on the soil surface. Cover with about a quarter to one-half inch of soil. Keep the soil moist. Place the pot in a warm place and look for signs of germination. Germination can take from two weeks to several months, but most seedlings will emerge within a month.
Potting and Repotting Brugmansia
Brugmansias can grow well in containers and are the way to go if you plan to keep it outdoors in a non-tropical zone. You will need to bring it if the temperatures drop lower than 50 F. Plant brugmansia in a 24-inch diameter container. Keep your potted brugmansia thoroughly watered while outside. Potted plants need more water than in-ground plants. Expect to water your outdoor brugmansia at least twice a day at the height of the season's hot, sunny days. Most brugmansias will not grow to their full height if they are grown in a container. At the most, the typical container-grown brugmansia will reach about 12 feet. Keep the plant pruned to maintain that size. Potted brugmansia should be gradually repotted as it grows to its final container—about 20 gallons in size.
Overwintering
Once winter sets in and outdoor temps drop below 50 F, bring in your brugmansia. You can treat it as a houseplant or allow it to go into dormancy. As a houseplant, give it light and water. Water it when the soil dries out, like any other houseplant. It may not flower while inside, but the foliage will look nice.
If you decide to allow it to go dormant, place it in a dark garage, basement, or closet (not colder than 50 F). You can trim it back by one-third and not harm the plant. Only water it sparingly about once a month. It may lose its leaves and look dead, but as long as the trunk is green, it's still alive. As spring approaches, about a month before you can reintroduce the plant to the outdoors, gradually increase watering (about once a week). Put the plant in a sunny spot or give it a grow light for at least 8 hours. In about one week, you should notice some new leaves or branch growth. After you put the plant back outside, its growth will boom, and you will notice its signature flowers within weeks.
Common Pests
Whiteflies are a big problem for brugmansia.3 Cabbage worms, spider mites, and aphids are also common. Other pests that may appear include cucumber beetles (in the midwestern United States), slugs and snails, fungus gnats (inside), and mealybugs. To treat these pest infestations, use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on a cotton ball or cotton swab to dab the insects. Another option, make a spray solution of equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol and spray the plant. You can also treat the plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to repel pests.
How to Get Brugmansia to Bloom
Only a mature brugmansia will bloom. If you started your plant from seeds, it could take up to five years before you see blooms. If you started your brugmansia from a cutting, it might speed up the process, but it can still take about four years. Brugmansia needs ample water to produce blooms and good drainage for good root health. Brugmansia is also a heavy feeder, requiring fertilizer regularly. If all of these factors are met, make sure that it's not root-bound. If it's in too small a container, it may not produce flowers. Move it to a larger container, water, and feed it.
Common Problems With Brugmansia
This plant requires little care and eventually yields some of the most noteworthy blossoms, however, brugmansia is susceptible to pests and diseases that can compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Stunted Plant Growth and Blotches
Mosaic virus and tomato spotted wilt are common viruses that affect plants in the Solanaceae family. They both can cause stunted plant growth and irregular streaking or blotches. Though the plant may survive and bounce back with proper care, these viruses are permanent and cannot be cured. Avoid planting angel trumpets next to heirloom tomatoes or tobacco plants (Nicotiana spp.) to prevent these viruses.
Wilting Leaves
Fusarium and verticillium wilt are two fungal infections. Both fungi affect the roots and travel up the stem, stopping water from entering the plant and causes wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt usually occurs in warm weather, while verticillium is more common in cooler temperatures. There is no cure; you can only manage the disease. The fungi can live in the soil for a long time. The best bet is to start with new plants and new soil.
Blackening Leaves and Smelly Odor
Root rot is a common fungal disease caused by excessive watering. You can prevent root rot by keeping the potting mix moist but never soggy. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn. Root rot can be deadly, but if caught early enough, you might be able to save the plant. Pull the root ball out of the container; cut away rotten, mushy roots; sterilize the potting container; and plant the healthy portion of root in fresh, well-draining soil.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月08日
Whether you know it as blue beard or blue mist, Caryopteris x clandonensis is one of the few plants that produce genuinely blue flowers. This plant originated as an accidental hybrid of C. incana and C. mongholica and has since been bred to produce several popular cultivars. The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden.
Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Pick the Perfect Front Door Color
Fun Fact
The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis
Common Names Blue beard, blue mist
Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer
Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia
Blue Beard Care
The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming.
Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive.
Light
Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location.
Soil
Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season.
Temperature and Humidity
Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year.
Fertilizer
These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard
Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular.
'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow.
'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage.
‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers.
‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high.
‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers.
Pruning
To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning.
Tip
Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient.
Propagating Blue Beard Plants
Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems.
Common Pests/Diseases
Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
Depending on the climate, these plants are grown either as deciduous shrubs or woody perennials that die back to the ground each winter. Growing from neat low mounds, the narrow silvery-gray leaves resemble those of willow. Ideally, the plant should be planted in the spring or fall, provided that your area doesn't get too cold. Clandonensis hybrids typically grow between 18 and 30 inches annually.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Pick the Perfect Front Door Color
Fun Fact
The plant's common names come from the hue of the flowers. The blue or purplish blooms, appearing are mid-to-late summer, are clustered in panicles above the foliage in small feathery puffs.
Botanical Name Caryopteris × clandonensis
Common Names Blue beard, blue mist
Plant Type Deciduous shrub or woody perennial
Mature Size 2 to 4 feet tall with a similar spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Medium moisture, well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to slightly alkaline)
Bloom Time Mid-to-late summer
Flower Color Blue, purple; pink cultivars available
Hardiness Zones 5 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Parent species are native to East Asia
Blue Beard Care
The compact size and soft gray foliage make blue beard plants a good choice in any size garden. This is a versatile plant, equally at home in perennial borders, shrub borders, or as a small hedge plant. It is very effective planted in mass and is highly valued for its late summer flowers when few other shrubs are blooming.
Blue beard plants are low-maintenance—they tolerate both drought and shade, and they don't need much fertilizer, if any. However, like all other plants, blue beards have their preferences, so you should plant them in full sun and with medium-moisture soil if you want them to thrive.
Light
Caryopteris plants should be sited in full sun for best blooms. They will tolerate some shade, although flowering will be somewhat reduced. Blue beard may bloom later in the season when they are planted in a shady location.
Soil
Caryopteris prefers a medium-moisture, well-draining soil, though it tolerates fairly moist soil. It does not tolerate wet, poorly drained soils. They thrive best with a neutral soil pH, but will accept slightly acidic or slightly alkaline conditions.
Water
Blue bears are drought-tolerant, but water the plants regularly when young. Once established, they don’t require any supplemental watering unless you are having a particularly dry season.
Temperature and Humidity
Blue beard is reliably hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9; however, in the northern part of the range (zones 5 and 6), it may die back to ground level in winter. This is not a problem, though, because this is a fast-growing shrub that blooms on new growth from the current year.
Fertilizer
These plants are not heavy feeders, so some organic matter mixed into the planting hole should be all the food they need. Side dressing with compost is preferred over fertilizing Caryopteris plants. Too much fertilizer makes for a leafy plant with fewer blooms.
Varieties of Blue Beard
Caryopteris x clandonensis : The original hybrid is one of the hardiest forms available and still one of the most popular.
'Dark Knight': This variety has the darkest blue flowers, but it is a bit more temperamental to grow.
'Sunshine Blue': This cultivar has deep blue flowers offset by yellow foliage.
‘Pink Chablis’: This Proven Winners introduction has pink flowers.
‘Longwood Blue’: This variety has sky-blue fragrant blooms and has a taller stature that's about 4 feet high.
‘Worchester Gold’: This cultivar has golden foliage and lavender flowers.
Pruning
To keep the plant shaped and flowering, Caryopteris plants should be cut down by at least half in the early spring. You can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches without harm. As the plants age, you will get some dead wood in the center. Prune this out as needed. If the plants die back in winter, remove the dead stalks in spring as new growth is beginning.
Tip
Blue beard is slow to leaf out in the spring, so don’t panic if yours looks like a dead twig. Be patient.
Propagating Blue Beard Plants
Blue beard may self seed, and the volunteers can be transplanted as you wish. You can also propagate by soft-wood cuttings in late spring. Cut 6-inch segments off new-growth stems, then remove the lower pairs of leaves. Dip the ends of the cuttings in rooting hormone, then plant them in potting mix. Keep the cuttings in bright indirect light and make sure they are well-watered until they have developed good root systems.
Common Pests/Diseases
Caryopteris can be bothered by the four-line plant bug in June. The foliage will get mottled, but it doesn’t harm the plant and the bug moves on quickly enough. If the bugs disturb you, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil will control them.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年11月04日
Lilac lovers often feel that the bloom is just too short. Lilac bushes bloom for about two weeks in May, and before you know it, it’s already over. Gardeners who cannot get enough of the looks and fragrance of lilac have the option to plant late-blooming varieties. Or, they can add a Bloomerang® lilac to their landscape or patio.
Bloomerang, first introduced in 2009, is a registered trademark hybrid, which means that its name is protected as a brand. Only the nursery that bred it is allowed to propagate the lilac and sell it under the name Bloomerang lilac.
In May, around the same time as the common lilac, Bloomerang blooms heavily. In June, the shrub takes a break before starting to bloom again in July until the first frost.
The spring bloom is different from the summer and fall bloom, when the panicles are smaller and darker in color than in the spring.
The beautiful color and fragrance of the re-blooming lilac are not just for humans—butterflies and hummingbirds will seek it out as well.
Botanical Name Syringa x
Common Name Bloomerang lilac, reblooming lilac
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size Four to five feet height and spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH 6 to 8
Bloom Time Spring and mid-summer through fall
Flower Color Lavender, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 3a-7b
Native Area Non-native hybrid
How to Care for Bloomerang Lilac
Hybrids like Bloomerang lilac are bred for best performance and disease-resistance. As such, they are a low-maintenance and almost carefree shrub for borders, foundations, and privacy screens. Bloomerang can be planted as a specimen, in small groups, or as mass plantings.
Light
Bloomerang does best in full sun. It can tolerate partial shade, but it comes at the cost of reduced bloom.
Soil
Like all lilacs, Bloomerang prefers soil that is rich in organic matter. The soil can be neutral to slightly alkaline. Good drainage is essential; lilacs do poorly in soggy, wet soil.
Water
Mulch around the base of your lilac to retain moisture. In long dry periods, water it moderately but regularly when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Like most lilacs, Bloomerang needs an extended period of cold winter weather in order to bloom profusely. This makes lilacs unsuitable for hot climates. While Bloomerang lilac can be planted through zone 7, it is best grown in areas with cooler summers. In areas with hot summers, the lilac is better off in locations that provide some shelter from the strong afternoon sun.
The shrub is not affected by humidity unless the weather is very hot and humid, which will slow down the reblooming.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Bloomerang lilacs twice, the first time in early spring right after the ground turns soft, and a second time after the spring bloom to give it a good boost for the continued summer bloom. Use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus to encourage blooming, and avoid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, as it will encourage only foliage growth, not blooming.
Pruning
Bloomerang blooms on old and new wood and does not require pruning. For a neater appearance, you can remove the spent flowers after the spring bloom but it’s not essential. Never prune Bloomerang in fall, winter, or spring, as pruning will remove developing flower buds.
Varieties of Bloomerang Lilac
Bloomerang Purple ‘Penda’ is a standard-size cultivar with lavender-colored flowers.
Bloomerang Dark Purple ‘SMSJBP7’ is a standard-size cultivar with dark purple flowers.
Bloomerang ‘Pink Perfume’ is another standard-size cultivar with pink flowers.
Bloomerang Dwarf Pink ‘SMNJRPI’ is a compact dwarf cultivar that reaches only two to three feet in height and spread. It has pink flowers.
Bloomerang Dwarf Purple ‘SMNJRPU’ is another compact dwarf cultivar with purple flowers.
Growing Bloomerang Lilac in Containers
Unlike common lilac and other large varieties, Bloomerang can be grown in containers, especially the dwarf varieties. Keep in mind that lilacs, even compact varieties, have an extensive root system. The container should be large, at least 18 inches in diameter.
Before you start, check out the common container gardening mistakes, such as filling the container in the wrong place. The correct 18-inch container for a Bloomerang lilac holds about 15 gallons and moving it after you planted can be cumbersome. Make sure your container has a drainage hole to prevent root rot.
Sufficient watering is crucial to keep your Bloomerang lilac alive and blooming. Follow the instructions for watering container plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
Bloomerang lilac is more resistant to powdery mildew and leaf spots than common lilac. Because powdery mildew, a fungus, thrives in humid weather, ensure good air circulation in and around your Bloomerang lilac by giving it enough space. Plant shrubs at least 60-72 inches apart.
It is also deer-resistant.
Bloomerang, first introduced in 2009, is a registered trademark hybrid, which means that its name is protected as a brand. Only the nursery that bred it is allowed to propagate the lilac and sell it under the name Bloomerang lilac.
In May, around the same time as the common lilac, Bloomerang blooms heavily. In June, the shrub takes a break before starting to bloom again in July until the first frost.
The spring bloom is different from the summer and fall bloom, when the panicles are smaller and darker in color than in the spring.
The beautiful color and fragrance of the re-blooming lilac are not just for humans—butterflies and hummingbirds will seek it out as well.
Botanical Name Syringa x
Common Name Bloomerang lilac, reblooming lilac
Plant Type Deciduous shrub
Mature Size Four to five feet height and spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH 6 to 8
Bloom Time Spring and mid-summer through fall
Flower Color Lavender, pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 3a-7b
Native Area Non-native hybrid
How to Care for Bloomerang Lilac
Hybrids like Bloomerang lilac are bred for best performance and disease-resistance. As such, they are a low-maintenance and almost carefree shrub for borders, foundations, and privacy screens. Bloomerang can be planted as a specimen, in small groups, or as mass plantings.
Light
Bloomerang does best in full sun. It can tolerate partial shade, but it comes at the cost of reduced bloom.
Soil
Like all lilacs, Bloomerang prefers soil that is rich in organic matter. The soil can be neutral to slightly alkaline. Good drainage is essential; lilacs do poorly in soggy, wet soil.
Water
Mulch around the base of your lilac to retain moisture. In long dry periods, water it moderately but regularly when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Like most lilacs, Bloomerang needs an extended period of cold winter weather in order to bloom profusely. This makes lilacs unsuitable for hot climates. While Bloomerang lilac can be planted through zone 7, it is best grown in areas with cooler summers. In areas with hot summers, the lilac is better off in locations that provide some shelter from the strong afternoon sun.
The shrub is not affected by humidity unless the weather is very hot and humid, which will slow down the reblooming.
Fertilizer
Fertilize Bloomerang lilacs twice, the first time in early spring right after the ground turns soft, and a second time after the spring bloom to give it a good boost for the continued summer bloom. Use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus to encourage blooming, and avoid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, as it will encourage only foliage growth, not blooming.
Pruning
Bloomerang blooms on old and new wood and does not require pruning. For a neater appearance, you can remove the spent flowers after the spring bloom but it’s not essential. Never prune Bloomerang in fall, winter, or spring, as pruning will remove developing flower buds.
Varieties of Bloomerang Lilac
Bloomerang Purple ‘Penda’ is a standard-size cultivar with lavender-colored flowers.
Bloomerang Dark Purple ‘SMSJBP7’ is a standard-size cultivar with dark purple flowers.
Bloomerang ‘Pink Perfume’ is another standard-size cultivar with pink flowers.
Bloomerang Dwarf Pink ‘SMNJRPI’ is a compact dwarf cultivar that reaches only two to three feet in height and spread. It has pink flowers.
Bloomerang Dwarf Purple ‘SMNJRPU’ is another compact dwarf cultivar with purple flowers.
Growing Bloomerang Lilac in Containers
Unlike common lilac and other large varieties, Bloomerang can be grown in containers, especially the dwarf varieties. Keep in mind that lilacs, even compact varieties, have an extensive root system. The container should be large, at least 18 inches in diameter.
Before you start, check out the common container gardening mistakes, such as filling the container in the wrong place. The correct 18-inch container for a Bloomerang lilac holds about 15 gallons and moving it after you planted can be cumbersome. Make sure your container has a drainage hole to prevent root rot.
Sufficient watering is crucial to keep your Bloomerang lilac alive and blooming. Follow the instructions for watering container plants.
Common Pests/Diseases
Bloomerang lilac is more resistant to powdery mildew and leaf spots than common lilac. Because powdery mildew, a fungus, thrives in humid weather, ensure good air circulation in and around your Bloomerang lilac by giving it enough space. Plant shrubs at least 60-72 inches apart.
It is also deer-resistant.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月31日
The common name "blood lily" is sometimes used for a variety of species, but this name most frequently refers to Scadoxus multiflorus, formerly known as Haemanthus multiflorus. This unique plant produces large, spherical flower heads that look like red fireworks or fireballs. Made up of red, star-shaped florets with yellow-tipped stamens, these flowers explode from the landscape and attract bees, butterflies, and birds.
Each flower stem is smooth and has no foliage. Bright green semi-succulent leaves may appear while the plant is blooming, but these leaves can also appear later. Blood lily plants produce red berries in the fall.
Botanical Name Scadoxus multiflorus
Common Name Blood Lily, African Blood Lily, Fireball Lily
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 24 in. tall, 15 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, Fall
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 9-11, USA
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Blood Lily Care
Despite its wild looks, the blood lily is quite easy to care for and does not demand much attention. Whether in the garden or a container, this plant does best with loamy, sandy soil that is moist but well-draining. A consistent watering schedule is important during its growing season. Bright, indirect light or partial sunshine is preferred.
The blood lily needs a time of rest in order to bloom year after year. Once the flowers are spent, stop watering and allow the plant to die off and sit dormant for the winter. After dormancy, adding fresh soil and watering more frequently will enable the blood lily to bloom again with vigor. Pests may include mealybugs or spider mites.
Light
Bright, indirect light exposure or partial sun is best, as the blood lily does not handle intense sun well. Afternoon shade is especially beneficial to protect these plants from the effects of the hot afternoon sun.
Soil
Loamy or sandy soil that is rich in nutrients is ideal for the blood lily. These soil types offer good drainage, which is important since these plants fare poorly in soggy soil.
If potted in containers, mix rich potting soil with sand. This mixture will allow the soil to stay moist while offering excellent drainage, which is important for a healthy plant.
Water
Blood lily plants have moderate watering needs; avoid overwatering. Your watering schedule for a blood lily will vary based upon the plant's growing stage.
When the plant is actively growing, water consistently to keep the soil slightly moist. However, as the plant begins to go dormant, stop regular watering and allow the plant to die off. Water only to prevent the soil and dormant plant from drying out completely. Increase watering when the plant begins to grow again.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer warm climate conditions and do best when temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Being native to Africa, the blood lily cannot tolerate frost or cold weather.
Medium to high humidity is best. If kept indoors, misting the plant or setting it on a tray of pebbles and water will help increase the humidity. Keep it away from harsh drafts near vents or windows.
Fertilizer
Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. A fertilizer high in phosphorus works well for these plants and supports blooming. When the blood lily begins to die off, stop fertilizing. Fertilize again once its dormant period is over.
Propagating Blood Lilies
Propagating offsets is a simple way to multiply blood lily plants.
When offsets appear, allow the offset to stay attached to the mother plant for two growing seasons.
After this, use sharp snips to cut the offset away from the mother plant, making sure not to damage the root system of either plant.
Remove the offset and plant in loamy or sandy soil that is moist.
How to Grow Blood Lily Plants from Seed
Blood lilies can be grown from seeds, found with the plant's red berries.
Harvest seeds from the berries once the berries fall off or drop when touched. When this happens, remove the berry flesh to get to the seeds.
Place the seeds on the surface of moist potting soil.
The seeds will germinate and form a bulb initially before sprouting. Keep the soil moist and allow the bulb to sit dormant. Growth should appear in a few months.
Once sprouted, plant the bulb in an individual pot or a suitable outdoor location that is warm enough (above 60 degrees Fahrenheit) and with adequate light exposure.
Potting and Repotting Blood Lilies
The Blood Lily does not require frequent repotting. In fact, blood lily grows best if it is not disturbed. If you absolutely must repot the plant, gently work the plant out of its container, taking care not to disturb its root system. Repot the plant in a new container with a mix of potting soil and sand. Water generously and allow excess moisture to drain from the pot.
Overwintering Blood Lilies
Because the blood lily is not equipped to survive cold temperatures, it's important to take the necessary steps to overwinter this plant. For plants grown in the garden, dig up the bulbs in fall; place them in peat moss, and move them to a warm area away from frost, such as inside a greenhouse. Keep the bulbs dry.
If the blood lily plant is grown in a pot, move the pot indoors and keep it as a houseplant during the winter. Be sure to provide enough humidity, since indoor air tends to be drier than the plant's typical growing conditions.
Each flower stem is smooth and has no foliage. Bright green semi-succulent leaves may appear while the plant is blooming, but these leaves can also appear later. Blood lily plants produce red berries in the fall.
Botanical Name Scadoxus multiflorus
Common Name Blood Lily, African Blood Lily, Fireball Lily
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 24 in. tall, 15 in. wide
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, moist but well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, Fall
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 9-11, USA
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Blood Lily Care
Despite its wild looks, the blood lily is quite easy to care for and does not demand much attention. Whether in the garden or a container, this plant does best with loamy, sandy soil that is moist but well-draining. A consistent watering schedule is important during its growing season. Bright, indirect light or partial sunshine is preferred.
The blood lily needs a time of rest in order to bloom year after year. Once the flowers are spent, stop watering and allow the plant to die off and sit dormant for the winter. After dormancy, adding fresh soil and watering more frequently will enable the blood lily to bloom again with vigor. Pests may include mealybugs or spider mites.
Light
Bright, indirect light exposure or partial sun is best, as the blood lily does not handle intense sun well. Afternoon shade is especially beneficial to protect these plants from the effects of the hot afternoon sun.
Soil
Loamy or sandy soil that is rich in nutrients is ideal for the blood lily. These soil types offer good drainage, which is important since these plants fare poorly in soggy soil.
If potted in containers, mix rich potting soil with sand. This mixture will allow the soil to stay moist while offering excellent drainage, which is important for a healthy plant.
Water
Blood lily plants have moderate watering needs; avoid overwatering. Your watering schedule for a blood lily will vary based upon the plant's growing stage.
When the plant is actively growing, water consistently to keep the soil slightly moist. However, as the plant begins to go dormant, stop regular watering and allow the plant to die off. Water only to prevent the soil and dormant plant from drying out completely. Increase watering when the plant begins to grow again.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer warm climate conditions and do best when temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Being native to Africa, the blood lily cannot tolerate frost or cold weather.
Medium to high humidity is best. If kept indoors, misting the plant or setting it on a tray of pebbles and water will help increase the humidity. Keep it away from harsh drafts near vents or windows.
Fertilizer
Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. A fertilizer high in phosphorus works well for these plants and supports blooming. When the blood lily begins to die off, stop fertilizing. Fertilize again once its dormant period is over.
Propagating Blood Lilies
Propagating offsets is a simple way to multiply blood lily plants.
When offsets appear, allow the offset to stay attached to the mother plant for two growing seasons.
After this, use sharp snips to cut the offset away from the mother plant, making sure not to damage the root system of either plant.
Remove the offset and plant in loamy or sandy soil that is moist.
How to Grow Blood Lily Plants from Seed
Blood lilies can be grown from seeds, found with the plant's red berries.
Harvest seeds from the berries once the berries fall off or drop when touched. When this happens, remove the berry flesh to get to the seeds.
Place the seeds on the surface of moist potting soil.
The seeds will germinate and form a bulb initially before sprouting. Keep the soil moist and allow the bulb to sit dormant. Growth should appear in a few months.
Once sprouted, plant the bulb in an individual pot or a suitable outdoor location that is warm enough (above 60 degrees Fahrenheit) and with adequate light exposure.
Potting and Repotting Blood Lilies
The Blood Lily does not require frequent repotting. In fact, blood lily grows best if it is not disturbed. If you absolutely must repot the plant, gently work the plant out of its container, taking care not to disturb its root system. Repot the plant in a new container with a mix of potting soil and sand. Water generously and allow excess moisture to drain from the pot.
Overwintering Blood Lilies
Because the blood lily is not equipped to survive cold temperatures, it's important to take the necessary steps to overwinter this plant. For plants grown in the garden, dig up the bulbs in fall; place them in peat moss, and move them to a warm area away from frost, such as inside a greenhouse. Keep the bulbs dry.
If the blood lily plant is grown in a pot, move the pot indoors and keep it as a houseplant during the winter. Be sure to provide enough humidity, since indoor air tends to be drier than the plant's typical growing conditions.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月27日
Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived perennial with richly colored, daisy-like flowers. The plant forms a slowly spreading mound and the common name may be a reference to how they can slowly spread and "blanket" an area. The plants grow to about 24 inches in height with about a 20-inch spread. Blanket flowers are fast-growers and will bloom in their first year. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of reds and yellows throughout the warm season months.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
FEATURED VIDEO
7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
FEATURED VIDEO
7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月24日
Named for its resemblance to the popular hardy garden flower black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.), the black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata) is instead a tender perennial climbing yet bushy vine that is normally grown as an annual. It is a great plant for containers and hanging baskets and is particularly beloved for its distinctive flowers in vivid orange, yellow, and other colors. The flowers have dark centers, like the other black-eyed Susans, and the vine blooms for many weeks in the summer and into fall.
Black-eyed Susan vine is a diminutive vine that grows to a maximum of about 8 feet in temperate zones or when grown in containers, although it can grow to 20 feet in frost-free zones, where the plant is evergreen. The leaves are arrow- or heart-shaped and up to 3 inches long. This vine climbs by winding its way up support structures rather than clinging with tendrils.
Also called clockvine, the black-eyed Susan vine is grown as an annual in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9 but can be grown as a perennial in zones 10 and 11.
Botanical Name Thunbergia alata
Common Name Black-Eyed Susan vine
Plant Type Flowering vine, annual or perennial
Mature Size 3 to 8 ft. tall, 3 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5
Bloom Time Summer (as an annual)
Flower Color Orange, white, yellow, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA)
Native Area East Africa
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Care
Black-eyed Susan vines are usually planted as annuals in containers or hanging baskets with mixed plantings, but they can also be planted in the ground to cover trellises, arbors, fences, and other structures. The plant works well to cascade down over retaining walls, and it can also serve as a ground cover. Aesthetically, it presents very well when combined with plants that have purple leaves or flowers.
If propagating or growing from seed, it's best to provide vertical structure in the ground or pots, for the vines before they need them, preferably before planting, so you don't have to disrupt the young plants later. You can simply plant them near a fence (with a post or planks they can climb), stand up a cage structure, or erect a tripod, or a tall pole.
Light
Grow these plants in full sun to part shade. Some afternoon shade is beneficial, especially in warmer climates, as the hottest sun's rays may be damaging.
Soil
Plant a black-eyed Susan vine in soil that is rich, fertile, and well-drained with medium moisture-retention properties. It prefers a soil pH that is close to neutral.
Water
Water regularly and deeply to keep the soil moist but not wet. If the leaves begin to wilt, the soil is probably too dry and needs a bit more water. In containers, do not let the soil dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
The black-eyed Susan vine thrives in warm, humid climates, which explains why it is invasive in tropical areas. However, it will grow anywhere in its zone range, provided it gets enough water. It tends to flower best after the hottest days of the summer are over.
Fertilizer
Feed the plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during their bloom season. Follow the package directions, but in many cases, it's best to use a half-strength solution of fertilizer designed to boost blooming.
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Varieties
Cultivars of Thunbergia alata have very similar foliage and overall habits and are mostly distinguished by flower color.
'Angel Wings': White flowers
'African Sunset': Dark red-purple flowers
'Arizona Dark Red': Deep orange-red flowers
'Blushing Susie': Apricot and rose flowers
'Canary Eyes': Yellow flowers
'Lemon A-Peel': Bright yellow flowers with a very dark center
'Orange Wonder': Bright orange flowers with no dark center
'Raspberry Smoothie': Pale lilac-pink flowers and grey-green foliage
'Superstar Orange': Extra-large orange flowers
'Susie' mix: Orange, yellow, and white flowers with or without contrasting centers
Propagating Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Propagating this vine from stem cuttings is easy and it's usually best done over the winter.
Take a cutting several inches from a terminal end of a healthy plant.
Remove the bottom leaves of the cutting.
Place the cutting in a glass of water to root.
Change the water in the glass every two or so days.
When the roots thicken, plant it in a well-draining pot in potting soil.
Grow the plant until spring and then transplant outdoors after the threat of frost has passed.
How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan Vines From Seed
This vine is easily started from seeds sown directly in the garden after the last expected frost date (when the soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit). In colder climates, nursery transplants are normally used; or, you can start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination occurs about 10 to 14 days after sowing in warmer temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and up to 20 days in cooler temperatures.
Potting and Repotting Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Black-eyed Susan vines grown in large pots with vertical structures can make beautiful decorations outdoors as well as inside your home. You can set a pair flanking a front door or define the edges of a patio or outdoor sitting area. Indoors, a pot of climbing vine can brighten the corner of a sunroom or even a large, bright bathroom.
Indoor vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed container plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during the blooming period.
Overwintering
Move potted vines indoors so the vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed indoor wintering container plants every two to three weeks during the cold season's blooming period.
Common Pests & Diseases
This showy vine is free of most serious insect or disease problems when grown outdoors, but indoors the plants can have problems with scale, spider mites, and whiteflies. Typically, these can be managed with neem oil or horticultural soap.
Black-eyed Susan vine is a diminutive vine that grows to a maximum of about 8 feet in temperate zones or when grown in containers, although it can grow to 20 feet in frost-free zones, where the plant is evergreen. The leaves are arrow- or heart-shaped and up to 3 inches long. This vine climbs by winding its way up support structures rather than clinging with tendrils.
Also called clockvine, the black-eyed Susan vine is grown as an annual in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9 but can be grown as a perennial in zones 10 and 11.
Botanical Name Thunbergia alata
Common Name Black-Eyed Susan vine
Plant Type Flowering vine, annual or perennial
Mature Size 3 to 8 ft. tall, 3 to 6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.5 to 7.5
Bloom Time Summer (as an annual)
Flower Color Orange, white, yellow, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 (USDA)
Native Area East Africa
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Care
Black-eyed Susan vines are usually planted as annuals in containers or hanging baskets with mixed plantings, but they can also be planted in the ground to cover trellises, arbors, fences, and other structures. The plant works well to cascade down over retaining walls, and it can also serve as a ground cover. Aesthetically, it presents very well when combined with plants that have purple leaves or flowers.
If propagating or growing from seed, it's best to provide vertical structure in the ground or pots, for the vines before they need them, preferably before planting, so you don't have to disrupt the young plants later. You can simply plant them near a fence (with a post or planks they can climb), stand up a cage structure, or erect a tripod, or a tall pole.
Light
Grow these plants in full sun to part shade. Some afternoon shade is beneficial, especially in warmer climates, as the hottest sun's rays may be damaging.
Soil
Plant a black-eyed Susan vine in soil that is rich, fertile, and well-drained with medium moisture-retention properties. It prefers a soil pH that is close to neutral.
Water
Water regularly and deeply to keep the soil moist but not wet. If the leaves begin to wilt, the soil is probably too dry and needs a bit more water. In containers, do not let the soil dry out completely.
Temperature and Humidity
The black-eyed Susan vine thrives in warm, humid climates, which explains why it is invasive in tropical areas. However, it will grow anywhere in its zone range, provided it gets enough water. It tends to flower best after the hottest days of the summer are over.
Fertilizer
Feed the plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during their bloom season. Follow the package directions, but in many cases, it's best to use a half-strength solution of fertilizer designed to boost blooming.
Black-Eyed Susan Vine Varieties
Cultivars of Thunbergia alata have very similar foliage and overall habits and are mostly distinguished by flower color.
'Angel Wings': White flowers
'African Sunset': Dark red-purple flowers
'Arizona Dark Red': Deep orange-red flowers
'Blushing Susie': Apricot and rose flowers
'Canary Eyes': Yellow flowers
'Lemon A-Peel': Bright yellow flowers with a very dark center
'Orange Wonder': Bright orange flowers with no dark center
'Raspberry Smoothie': Pale lilac-pink flowers and grey-green foliage
'Superstar Orange': Extra-large orange flowers
'Susie' mix: Orange, yellow, and white flowers with or without contrasting centers
Propagating Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Propagating this vine from stem cuttings is easy and it's usually best done over the winter.
Take a cutting several inches from a terminal end of a healthy plant.
Remove the bottom leaves of the cutting.
Place the cutting in a glass of water to root.
Change the water in the glass every two or so days.
When the roots thicken, plant it in a well-draining pot in potting soil.
Grow the plant until spring and then transplant outdoors after the threat of frost has passed.
How to Grow Black-Eyed Susan Vines From Seed
This vine is easily started from seeds sown directly in the garden after the last expected frost date (when the soil is at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit). In colder climates, nursery transplants are normally used; or, you can start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Germination occurs about 10 to 14 days after sowing in warmer temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and up to 20 days in cooler temperatures.
Potting and Repotting Black-Eyed Susan Vines
Black-eyed Susan vines grown in large pots with vertical structures can make beautiful decorations outdoors as well as inside your home. You can set a pair flanking a front door or define the edges of a patio or outdoor sitting area. Indoors, a pot of climbing vine can brighten the corner of a sunroom or even a large, bright bathroom.
Indoor vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed container plants (indoors or outdoors) every two to three weeks during the blooming period.
Overwintering
Move potted vines indoors so the vines can even flower in the winter, provided they get plenty of sun and the temperature doesn't drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed indoor wintering container plants every two to three weeks during the cold season's blooming period.
Common Pests & Diseases
This showy vine is free of most serious insect or disease problems when grown outdoors, but indoors the plants can have problems with scale, spider mites, and whiteflies. Typically, these can be managed with neem oil or horticultural soap.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月16日
The distinctive bird of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) is one of the best-known tropical flowers. It is closely related to the banana plant. The bird of paradise plant is named for closely resembling the tropical bird of the same name. It is easier to grow than many tropical plants and makes for a vigorous, rapidly growing indoor plant. It can be moved outside in the summer and thrives outside for half the year. Bird of paradise typically flowers in the late winter or early spring, but it can flower at other times of the year when provided optimal conditions. These plants grow with upright leaves emerging directly from the soil and have no trunk. The large leaves range from 12 to 18 inches long and can get splits in the leaf when exposed to windy conditions or brushed against in a busy hallway. Strelitzia is toxic to cats and dogs.1
Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower
Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai
Family Strelitziaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Late winter to early spring
Flower Color Orange or white
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa (South Africa)
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Bird of Paradise Care
Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter.
Light
This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window.
Soil
Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot.
Water
Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Types of Strelitzia
There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise).
Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems.
Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size.
Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades.
Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds.
Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain.
Pruning
Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves.
Propagating Bird of Paradise
The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia.
To propagate by division:
Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix.
You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife.
Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix.
How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed
Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home.
Potting and Repotting Strelitzia
Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot.
Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle.
Overwintering
If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive.
To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out.
How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom
Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering.
Common Problems With Strelitzia
Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay.
Wilting or Browning of Leaves
The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem.
Slits or Breaks in the Leaves
This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
Common Name Bird of paradise, crane flower
Botanical Name Strelitzia reginae, Strelitzia nicolai
Family Strelitziaceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 3.5-6 ft. tall, 3-4 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Loamy
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Late winter to early spring
Flower Color Orange or white
Hardiness Zones 10-12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa (South Africa)
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Bird of Paradise Care
Strelitzia are beautiful plants that can be successfully grown inside; however, the biggest drawbacks are their size; they can grow 5 to 6 feet tall. These plants need 3 to 5 years to mature before they flower. They work well in massed plantings outside or as a specimen plant in warm climates, where their flowers rise above the foliage for an impressive display.
The trick to successful growth indoors is bright light with direct sun, regular watering, and warmth. Feed the plant with compost early in spring before new growth begins and fertilize every week during the growing season. To increase survival rate, grow the plant in a container that can be moved outside in warm summer months and returned inside during the winter.
Light
This plant needs bright light, including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, it requires shielding in the direct midday summer sun, which can burn the leaves of younger plants.2 A good position is in a room with windows facing east or west. Avoid rooms with only a north-facing window.
Soil
Use rich, well-drained potting mix for potted plants or a compost mixture. If using a pot, make sure it has ample drainage holes to allow water to flow through the soil and out of the pot.
Water
Keep the soil continually moist throughout the year. While it should not be waterlogged, expect to water it daily in the spring and summer as it loses moisture through its big leaves. You can water it until you see the water draining from its drainage holes, but make sure it does not sit in a pool of water. If overwatered, the plant will develop crunchy brown leaves. If underwatered, the leaves farthest from the center will turn yellow.
Temperature and Humidity
Bird of paradise prefers high humidity. You might want to keep a spray bottle handy to mist it if your home is dry. Keep the air temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant, and it recovers slowly from frost damage.
Fertilizer
This plant is a heavy feeder. Feed it in the springtime with slow-release pellets or weekly during the growing season with liquid fertilizer.
Types of Strelitzia
There are five Strelitzia species, but only two are commonly grown as indoor plants: S. reginae (orange bird of paradise) and S. nicolai (white bird of paradise).
Strelitzia reginae 'Glauca': This orange variety has powdery grayer foliage and stems.
Strelitzia reginae 'Humilis' or 'Pygmaea': This orange variety only grows to about 3 feet in size.
Strelitzia reginae 'Ovata': This orange variety features rounded leaf blades.
Strelitzia juncea: The leafless bird of paradise lacks leaf blades, so its stems and leaves look like reeds.
Strelitzia caudata: This 25-foot-tall species grows in the higher elevations of South Africa and is also called the mountain bird of paradise. It blooms with white-and-blue petalled flowers and is the rarest and hardest to obtain.
Pruning
Birds of paradise flowers last for about three weeks before dropping their petals and dying. Remove old or damaged plant matter. This is the best way to thin the leaves. Remove the leaves by pulling them off or use sharp cutting instruments. Sterilize the implements in between different plants. If a leaf appears mostly healthy, leave it intact. If your plant has grown really large, and you need to do significant cutting down, use loppers, hand pruners, or a pruning saw in the early spring. Do not use hedge trimmers, which leave ragged cuts. You can cut all leaves and stems down to just above the ground. If the plant remains too crowded, use long-handled pruners and remove selected stems and leaves.
Propagating Bird of Paradise
The best ways to propagate birds of paradise are division and sowing seeds. Division is easier and quicker than growing from seed. It's best to use mature plants that have been previously blooming for at least three years. Here's how to divide strelitzia.
To propagate by division:
Depending on the size of your plant (and its rhizome or underground root structure), you will need larger instruments like a shovel and saw for in-ground or large plants. For smaller plants, you can use a sharp knife. If potting the division, you will need a new pot and a well-draining potting mix.
You can also remove the new growth or offshoots at the base of the plant that has at least three leaves and divide the rhizome below ground with a shovel, saw, or knife.
Repot in a new container with a well-draining potting mix.
How to Grow Strelitzia From Seed
Be patient when growing strelitzia from seeds. It can take two months for the seeds to germinate. Soak seeds in room-temperature water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. Remove any orange stringy material. Nick the seed with a knife or nail file. Plant the seed in a well-draining potting mix about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and at least 3 inches apart from other seeds. Place the container in a warm, indirect sun location (at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit). Cover with a cloche or plastic wrap, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. Once the seedling germinates and produces two to three leaves, transplant to a 6-inch pot. Once your plant reaches 6 inches, it is ready for a more permanent home.
Potting and Repotting Strelitzia
Bird of paradise is a rapidly-growing plant that needs to reach a certain size before it blooms. A bird of paradise that is 3 to 4 feet tall grows well in a 10-inch pot. A 5- to 6-foot plant usually thrives in a 14-inch pot. Repot it every spring into the next-size-up pot.
Once it reaches maturity, allow it to be pot-bound so that it will bloom. You can divide it by the time it has matured or bloomed at least once but do it infrequently since crowded clumps produce the most blooms. Repotting disrupts the bloom cycle.
Overwintering
If it gets below freezing where you live for a prolonged time, you might kill this plant if you do not take it inside for the winter. However, if you live in an area like zone 9, where it only dips low for short periods, you may be able to overwinter your plant outdoors; but it will need help to survive.
To overwinter outdoors, cut the stem and leaves down to just 12 inches above the ground. Cover the entire stem and rhizome area with a layer of mulch, then leaf litter, and straw. Cover that with breathable row cover material and stake it down. As soon as spring arrives and the threat of the last frost is gone, remove the toppings.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Monitor the plant for aphids, scale, and whiteflies.3 If you see them, use insecticidal soap for control and apply it to the undersides of the leaves. Systemic pesticide is also effective. If you use systemic pesticide, the plant will distribute it from its roots through to its leaves and flowers. Bird of paradise is also susceptible to Botrytis cinerea (gray mold).3 Flowers and leaves with this condition will develop dark spots followed by a layer of gray mold. Remove the affected parts of the plant and allow them to air out.
How to Get Strelitzia to Bloom
Once your plant is at least four to five years old, it is mature enough to bloom. To spur flowering, keep it pot-bound. Give it a lot of sun (at least 6 hours of full sunlight or bright light) and feed it on schedule. One of the most common reasons a bird of paradise fails to flower is insufficient light. These plants should also be kept evenly moist throughout summer, but allow them to dry out between watering.
Common Problems With Strelitzia
Strelizia is a relatively easy-going plant with very few issues. It is most prone to root rot and insects that prey on the plant when its optimal conditions are not met. But, if it's not overwatered, kept fed, and given ample light and air circulation—it can keep most problems at bay.
Wilting or Browning of Leaves
The most common disease affecting strelitzia is root rot. When the roots of the plant sit in water or the soil gets soggy for a prolonged amount of time, a fungus that causes root rot can overtake a plant. It can be avoided by letting the soil dry out between waterings. Another sign you have root rot includes a rotting smell. Some plants can be saved if caught early. To fix root rot, pull up the root ball, cutting away blackened, moldy parts of the rhizome, apply a fungicide according to the instructions, and repot in a sterilized container with fresh, well-draining soil.
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves are a sign of underwatering. You can avoid this problem by giving more water and making sure that the water runs freely from the bottom of the pot. This thorough watering ensures that all the roots have access to water, but make sure that the plant doesn't sit in that water. Soggy soil can cause other problems.
Yellowing Leaves
Yellowing leaves can mean several things. First, if the occasion leaf turns yellow, and the plant is a mature plant, it can be the normal life cycle of the leaf of that plant. However, if many leaves begin to yellow it can be a sign that the plant does not have ample humidity, it needs more nutrients, or if the yellowed leaves are toward the outside of the plant, it's not getting sufficiently watered. Increase each of those factors—one at a time—to see if that solves the problem.
Slits or Breaks in the Leaves
This plant's leaves are large. If your strelitzia develops slits or breaks in the leaves, especially if your plant lives outside for some part of the year, it's natural and normal. The plant develops slits to allow the plant to circulate air around its leaves and roots. Wind and breezes contribute to slitting. Air circulation keeps mold and other pests from settling in.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月13日
You may not be familiar with the term bidens plant, but there is a good chance you’ve spotted this prolific growing plant with daisy-like blooms. Part of the aster family, there are more than 200 species of bidens plants with native types in such farflung places as Hawaii, Mexico, and Europe. In the United States, these plants are considered a native species in every state except Wyoming. If you encounter wild-growing bidens, you’ll recognize them for the tiny, sticky seeds that cling to your clothing or in your dog’s fur. The good news is that most commercially-available bidens have been cultivated to avoid the sticky seed problem.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
These flowering plants typically have blooms in yellow or orange, but newer varieties include pink, gold, and white blossoms. In warmer climates where winter temperatures stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, bidens are a perennial plant. Though they lose their blooms in late fall and winter, the beautiful foliage of this plant stays green all year long. In northern climates where winter temperatures fall below freezing, they are considered an annual and need to be replanted each year.
Botanical Name Bidens
Common Name Bidens
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6-12 inches tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun Exposure Medium to full sun
Soil Type Rich and well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, Gold, White, Pink, Orange
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Americas, Africa, Polynesia, Europe, Asia
How to Grow Bidens
Growing virtually all types of bidens is relatively easy. These plants have abundant greenery growth and produce many blooms—as long as they have rich soil and sufficient drainage. They tolerate drought and heat relatively well and require part to full sun.
You won’t need to deadhead the plant for it to continue blooming during its long flowering season of May to October. In the winter, the plant will die off if temperatures fall below freezing. Otherwise, it will retain its greenery through the winter months and rejuvenate in the spring.
Popular in both gardens and in containers, bidens are considered an excellent choice as a spiller plant.
Light
Bidens can grow in partial sun conditions, but for the biggest and best blooms, full sun is preferred. Any location you choose to plant bidens should receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. Without adequate light, the plant will still grow but may not produce as many blooms and is likely to be leggier.
Soil
Whether you’re planting bidens in an outdoor garden or a container, ensure that they have well-drained soil to avoid problems with root rot. In addition, this abundantly blooming plant thrives in rich, humus soil. It can tolerate a variety of pH levels in soil, but is generally considered to do best in neutral to slightly acidic soil types.
Water
These plants are considered fairly drought-resistant. However, they do require regular watering for their best appearance and longevity. An inch of water per week is typically sufficient; water before wilting begins.
Temperature and Humidity
Warm temperatures don’t put a damper on the growth and blooming of most varieties of bidens. With many of these plants being native to warm weather locales like Hawaii, Mexico, and Polynesia, it’s safe to say that they won’t mind a little heat and humidity!
The drought resistant quality of this plant also helps it to endure hot, dry conditions. However, if such a spell of dry weather persists, it’s best to provide these plants with regular watering to offset the impact of the heat on the plant’s foliage and blooms.
On the other hand, if temperatures dip too low, bidens plants will suffer. These plants are not frost-resistant and will die under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. In climates that keep above this threshold, the plant will return year after year as a perennial. Otherwise, it will need to be re-planted as an annual each year.
Fertilizer
To flourish, the abundantly flowering bidens plant will require nutrient-rich soil. How much fertilizer to use and what type is generally specified by the specific type of bidens plant you’re growing.
It’s generally recommended to supplement this plant with a general-purpose fertilizer or to use a timed-release fertilizer when planting. Fertilizer is especially important if you are growing bidens in a container.
Propagating Bidens
It’s relatively easy to turn one bidens plant into many, since these plants can be propagated by seed, cuttings, or through dividing.
To propagate by seed, you should plan to sow the seeds at the end of winter or beginning of spring. Keep in mind that this plant prefers warm weather, so wait until after the last frost if you’re sowing seed in an outdoor location.
If you want to propagate by cuttings, take an actively growing stem with a node from the plant. Plant it in moist, rich potting soil and water generously and often until new growth emerges.
Finally, you can divide bidens plants to create more of these flowering beauties. For bidens growing as perennials in southern regions, wait to divide the plants until the spring.
Varieties of Bidens
Bidens alba – Resembling a daisy, this bidens plant variety features white petals and a bright yellow center. It’s also sometimes referred to as beggarticks or Spanish needles.
Bidens 'Campfire Burst' – This variety of bidens is hard to miss, thanks to the brightly hued flowers crowning each plant. The tri-colored petals are shaded inward from a deep red to a blazing orange and a zippy yellow. They flower abundantly from the summer into the fall and are a great colorful addition to any landscape design.
Bidens ferulifolia 'Golden Nugget' – With yellow petals that resemble a star and an orange center, the Golden Nugget variety is one of the most eye-catching bidens plants. It’s a native of Mexico and is also called the Apache beggartick or fern-leaved beggartick, courtesy of its fine, soft foliage.
Pruning
Bidens are easy to maintain and don’t need to be pruned or deadheaded. However, in favorable growing conditions, you might choose to prune the plant back if it becomes too large.
Being Grown in Containers
While bidens are a popular pick for gardens and landscaping, they also make an excellent choice for container gardening. The abundant foliage and flowers are well-suited to flower boxes or hanging planters.
Much of the care of bidens grown in containers remains the same, however it will be important to fertilize these plants since they require rich soil for flowering and overall vitality.
0
0
