文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月29日
The African spear plant (Sansevieria cylindrica), also known as the cylindrical snake plant, is a succulent that consists of upright, gray-green, subtly striped leaves. The leaves are cylindrical in shape but narrow to a point at their tips. When grown in optimal conditions, African spear plants might send up a long flower spike from their center that's full of tiny, delicate, white blooms. They are best planted at the start of the growing season in the spring, and they’re generally a slow-growing succulent.
Botanical Name Sansevieria cylindrica
Common Names African spear plant, cylindrical snake plant, spear sansevieria
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Sporadic
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets and humans
African Spear Plant Care
African spear plants are generally very low maintenance. They will survive if you forget to water or feed them, and they can thrive being root-bound in a pot. They are hardy plants that don’t typically have problems with diseases or pests, and they’re not overly picky about their growing conditions. In fact, you are more likely to put too much into their care and end up overwatering or overfeeding them than you are to harm them with neglect. During the growing season (spring to fall) they will appreciate semiregular watering and occasional fertilizing. And over the winter plan to avoid fertilization and water minimally. Get this routine right, and that's the majority of the care that goes into keeping an African spear plant happy and healthy.
You typically won’t have any pruning to do on this plant, but you can remove leaves that have yellowed or otherwise discolored for aesthetic purposes. Simply cut them at their base with sterilized pruning shears. You also can remove plant offshoots that pop up from the soil to start new plants. Wait until these baby plants are at least 6 inches high before cutting them off from the main plant and planting them separately.
If you’re growing your plant in a container, you likely won’t have to repot it more than every few years once the roots start noticeably growing out of the pot. Move it just to one container size up, as its roots still will like being a little cramped. A heavy pot that is shallow and wide is best, as it will anchor the weight of the leaves; otherwise, your plant might easily tip over. Also, be sure the pot has ample drainage holes.
Light
These plants can tolerate somewhat low light conditions, but they prefer some full sunlight along with bright filtered light. Outdoors they will appreciate morning sun but should be protected from direct hot afternoon sun. Indoors they like a bright north-facing window. Too strong of light can cause the leaves to yellow around the edges, and too little light can result in subpar leaf growth.
Soil
Like most succulents, these plants prefer a sandy soil that has excellent drainage and doesn’t retain water. A potting mix made especially for succulents is ideal.
Water
African spear plants can survive long periods of drought. And being left in soggy soil or standing water for too long can cause the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out between waterings, and then water the plant deeply. Watering every week to every other week is generally enough. If you’re growing your plant in a container, be sure to empty the saucer of any excess water that comes through the drainage holes. During the winter months, put a little more time between your waterings than you did during the growing season. Watering roughly once a month should be fine.
Temperature and Humidity
These succulents grow naturally in hot, dry climates, and cold temperatures can damage or kill them. Make sure they remain in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. That includes protecting them from cool drafts, such as those from air conditioners. Humidity usually isn’t an issue as long as the soil isn’t saturated.
Fertilizer
African spear plants can live in lean soil, and they don’t require much fertilizer. Feed them with a succulent fertilizer diluted to half strength monthly from spring to fall. During the winter no fertilization is necessary.
Is the African Spear Plant Toxic?
Like other members of the Sansevieria genus, all parts of African spear plants are toxic to pets and people when ingested. The reaction is usually mild, but it can cause severe symptoms in small animals or children who ingest a lot of the plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
For both pets and people, symptoms of toxicity generally involve gastrointestinal issues, most commonly nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. If you suspect poisoning, contact a medical professional as soon as possible for treatment instructions.
African Spear Plant Varieties
There are just a few varieties of African spear plants available, including:
Sansevieria cylindrica 'Spaghetti’: This cultivar features especially thin leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Skyline’: This cultivar sports large, erect leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Patula’: This plant’s leaves grow outward and bend down more than most other varieties.
Botanical Name Sansevieria cylindrica
Common Names African spear plant, cylindrical snake plant, spear sansevieria
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 4–6 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Sporadic
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets and humans
African Spear Plant Care
African spear plants are generally very low maintenance. They will survive if you forget to water or feed them, and they can thrive being root-bound in a pot. They are hardy plants that don’t typically have problems with diseases or pests, and they’re not overly picky about their growing conditions. In fact, you are more likely to put too much into their care and end up overwatering or overfeeding them than you are to harm them with neglect. During the growing season (spring to fall) they will appreciate semiregular watering and occasional fertilizing. And over the winter plan to avoid fertilization and water minimally. Get this routine right, and that's the majority of the care that goes into keeping an African spear plant happy and healthy.
You typically won’t have any pruning to do on this plant, but you can remove leaves that have yellowed or otherwise discolored for aesthetic purposes. Simply cut them at their base with sterilized pruning shears. You also can remove plant offshoots that pop up from the soil to start new plants. Wait until these baby plants are at least 6 inches high before cutting them off from the main plant and planting them separately.
If you’re growing your plant in a container, you likely won’t have to repot it more than every few years once the roots start noticeably growing out of the pot. Move it just to one container size up, as its roots still will like being a little cramped. A heavy pot that is shallow and wide is best, as it will anchor the weight of the leaves; otherwise, your plant might easily tip over. Also, be sure the pot has ample drainage holes.
Light
These plants can tolerate somewhat low light conditions, but they prefer some full sunlight along with bright filtered light. Outdoors they will appreciate morning sun but should be protected from direct hot afternoon sun. Indoors they like a bright north-facing window. Too strong of light can cause the leaves to yellow around the edges, and too little light can result in subpar leaf growth.
Soil
Like most succulents, these plants prefer a sandy soil that has excellent drainage and doesn’t retain water. A potting mix made especially for succulents is ideal.
Water
African spear plants can survive long periods of drought. And being left in soggy soil or standing water for too long can cause the roots to rot. Let the soil dry out between waterings, and then water the plant deeply. Watering every week to every other week is generally enough. If you’re growing your plant in a container, be sure to empty the saucer of any excess water that comes through the drainage holes. During the winter months, put a little more time between your waterings than you did during the growing season. Watering roughly once a month should be fine.
Temperature and Humidity
These succulents grow naturally in hot, dry climates, and cold temperatures can damage or kill them. Make sure they remain in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. That includes protecting them from cool drafts, such as those from air conditioners. Humidity usually isn’t an issue as long as the soil isn’t saturated.
Fertilizer
African spear plants can live in lean soil, and they don’t require much fertilizer. Feed them with a succulent fertilizer diluted to half strength monthly from spring to fall. During the winter no fertilization is necessary.
Is the African Spear Plant Toxic?
Like other members of the Sansevieria genus, all parts of African spear plants are toxic to pets and people when ingested. The reaction is usually mild, but it can cause severe symptoms in small animals or children who ingest a lot of the plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
For both pets and people, symptoms of toxicity generally involve gastrointestinal issues, most commonly nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. If you suspect poisoning, contact a medical professional as soon as possible for treatment instructions.
African Spear Plant Varieties
There are just a few varieties of African spear plants available, including:
Sansevieria cylindrica 'Spaghetti’: This cultivar features especially thin leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Skyline’: This cultivar sports large, erect leaves.
Sansevieria cylindrica ‘Patula’: This plant’s leaves grow outward and bend down more than most other varieties.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月25日
Hailing from Southeast Asia, Amazon elephant's ear is a popular tropical plant that is sometimes also referred to as African mask. It's a hybrid varietal that makes a striking and beautiful houseplant and is typically sold as such. It can be purchased, planted, and cared for year-round in an indoor environment.
Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage.
Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica
Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask
Plant Type Tropical
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Green
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care
The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation.
Light
Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves.
Soil
This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite.
Water
Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby.
Fertilizer
Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month.
Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic?
Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly.
Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans
Nausea
Vomiting
Stomach cramps
Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes
Burning in the mouth or throat
Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes)
Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals
Oral irritation
Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips
Excessive drooling
Vomiting
Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear
When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development.
Common Pests & Diseases
Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
Amazon elephant's ear is defined by its deep green leaves, which are accentuated by whitish or light green veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple-green. The plant will grow quickly, reaching a mature height of up to 2 feet. Amazon elephant ear plants rarely bloom (especially indoors), and are grown primarily for their eye-catching foliage.
Botanical Name Alocasia x amazonica
Common Name Amazon elephant's ear, African mask
Plant Type Tropical
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Green
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans, dogs, and cats
Amazon Elephant's Ear Care
The good news is that growing Amazon elephant's ear is pretty easy. They like filtered sun or shade and rich, moist soil. Like most tropical plants, they thrive in warm temperatures and high humidity and crave plenty of water. These plants are best propagated by division during the spring. In a healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation.
Light
Amazon elephant's ear plants require lots of bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade but prefer about 60 percent shade, which will guarantee you the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to harsh direct rays of sunlight, which can bleach or scorch the leaves.
Soil
This plant prefers a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil. An organic, loose soil that contains a good amount of peat moss is ideal. If your soil mixture is too heavy, you can lighten it with some sand or perlite.
Water
Keep the soil moist but remember that Amazon elephant's ear plants do not like wet feet. If possible, water your plant in the morning from below (at the root zone) to keep the leaves from getting too wet. The plant needs a rest period in winter, so allow the soil to become almost dry between waterings during these months. However, if it dries completely, the plant may go dormant.
Temperature and Humidity
As a tropical plant, Amazon elephant's ear will go dormant or die if exposed to cold temperatures. It likes to be in a climate similar to its native Southeast Asia, with temperatures ranging between 65 degrees Fahrenheit and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the plant loves above-average humidity levels. You can start by housing your Amazon elephant's ear in a typically humid room in your home (like a bathroom), but you may also need to place the plant on a humidity tray with pebbles or invest in a small space a humidifier to put nearby.
Fertilizer
Amazon elephant's ear tends to be a heavy feeder during its growing period and will respond well to applications of a diluted balanced fertilizer. Starting in spring, feed the plant every two weeks, stopping at the end of August, then beginning the cycle again at the start of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant's leaves will yellow—if this happens, try adding fertilizer with micronutrients, or sprinkle Epsom salts around the base of the plant once a month.
Is Amazon Elephant's Ear Toxic?
Elephant's ear is a mildly poisonous houseplant and should be kept away from any curious children or pets that may be tempted to eat or bite the plant. If a person or pet is poisoned by elephant's ear, call the proper poison control center or emergency services promptly. Most symptoms will disappear within several days to a week if treated properly.
Symptoms of Poisoning in Humans
Nausea
Vomiting
Stomach cramps
Redness, pain, or burning of the eyes
Burning in the mouth or throat
Facial swelling (including tongue, mouth, and eyes)
Symptoms of Poisoning in Animals
Oral irritation
Pain and swelling of mouth, tongue, and lips
Excessive drooling
Vomiting
Difficulty swallowing
Potting and Repotting Amazon Elephant's Ear
When growing Amazon elephant's ear in a pot, choose a stable container with ample room to support the plant's growth. A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly under-potted for best foliage development.
Common Pests & Diseases
Amazon elephant's ear is typically not susceptible to diseases, but over-watering can lead to fungal infections. If you notice dark brown or black spots (often accompanied by a yellowish rim on the leaves), that's a good sign that a fungal infection is brewing. To treat, remove the damaged leaves, move the plant away from any other plants, and treat it with a fungicide spray. Misting it with a soapy water mixture every few weeks can also help to help deter pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and aphids—and serve to keep your Amazon elephant's ear dust-free.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月19日
Aeonium is a genus including about 35 succulent plant species with unusually glossy, waxy leaves arranged in rosettes. The species range from the low-growing A. tabuliforme and A. smithii, just a few inches across, to large species several feet across, such as A. arboreum, A. valverdense, and A. holochrysum. The leaves and structure of the plant are so perfect that these species are sometimes mistaken for artificial plants.
The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks.
Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom.
Latin Name Aeonium spp.
Common Names Aeonium
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Sandy loam
Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Late winter or spring
Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants)
Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter
Native Area Canary Islands, Africa
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aeonium Care
In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests.
Light
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light.
Soil
A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity.
Water
In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss.
Fertilizer
Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers.
Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves. It, too, is a fairly large plant.
Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red.
Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips.
Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
Potting and Repotting
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix.
If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Aeoniums
Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week.
Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed.
Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
The leaves of Aeoniums are typically rounded and arranged in rosettes around center hubs at the end of stems. The foliage can be a solid color, or variegated in white, yellow, red, and green. Small, star-like flowers grow in clusters from the center of the rosettes, but they are not particularly showy. The fleshy leaves make these plants quite similar to several other succulent plants, most noticeably Echeveria and Sempervivum—the popular hens and chicks.
Aeoniums can be planted in the garden at any time. These are rather slow-growing plants, and it may take as much as five years before they bloom.
Latin Name Aeonium spp.
Common Names Aeonium
Plant Type Perennial succulent
Mature Size 2–60 inches (depending on species and variety)
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Sandy loam
Soil pH 5.6–6.0 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Late winter or spring
Flower Color Pink (flowering is rare, occurring only in mature plants)
Hardiness Zones 9–11(USDA); often grown as potted plants brought indoors for winter
Native Area Canary Islands, Africa
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aeonium Care
In warmer climates, Aeoniums can be grown as in the ground as perennials, but it is also common to grow them as potted plants on decks or patios. In colder regions, they should be grown in containers and taken inside before frost. When grown in the garden, Aeoniums command the most attention when grouped in masses. Tall varieties can look like bonsai when they get shrubby; you can trim them if they get too leggy. The cuttings will readily root and make new plants, helping you fill out your planting area.
If you have the proper growing conditions, Aeoniums require very little pampering. Otherwise, your major task will be moving them from hot sun to shade and back again, watering, and moving them indoors when the temperature drops too low.
Aeoniums have shallow root systems since they store their water in their leaves and stems. Unlike other succulents, which prefer dry soil, Aeoniums prefer soil that is moist but not wet. They can produce roots along their stems, which you may notice if the plant gets pot bound or the stems fall and touch the soil. Make sure these roots do not dry out. The stem roots will quickly turn the fallen pieces into new plants. Leggy branches do tend to fall over and snap off from the weight of the rosettes. If this happens, you can re-plant the broken stem.
Keep an eye out for pests on Aeoniums. Slugs can do some damage, and aphids, mealybugs, and ants also enjoy Aeoniums. Treat the plant with a spray of water or mild insecticidal soap to remove these pests.
Light
As with most succulents, Aeonium plants grow best in full sun to part shade. In hot summers and desert conditions, light shade may be necessary. Indoors, give them bright indirect light.
Soil
A sandy loam or regular potting mix amended with perlite is better than a mix specifically for succulents and cacti since Aeoniums need some moisture. If grown in garden beds with dense soil, it may be necessary to amend with peat moss to improve soil porosity.
Water
In the winter, water whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Test by poking your finger down into the soil an inch or two. These plants do like more moisture than many other succulents, but too much moisture or allowing them to sit in wet soil will cause root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants prefer a Mediterranean climate—not too hot, not too cold, not too dry. Most Aeonium varieties are only hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11. Growing Aeoniums in moist shade will keep them growing in high heat, but their true growth season is winter to spring, when temperatures are cool (65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) and damp. They may go dormant in summer and do not require excessive watering, except in excessively dry conditions. In extreme heat, their leaves will curl to prevent excessive water loss.
Fertilizer
Feed during the growing season with a half-strength balanced fertilizer every month or so. Do not feed while dormant.
Aeonium Varieties
Aeonium arboreum: This widely available plant has bright green rosettes on a branching stem. It has a shrubby form and can grow as tall as 6 feet in the garden, or 3 feet in containers.
Aeonium arboreum 'Atropurpureum': This 3- to 5-foot tall cultivar has maroon leaves if grown in bright light.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop': This cultivar has very dark, almost black leaves. It, too, is a fairly large plant.
Aeonium 'Garnet': A hybrid cross of A. 'Zwarkop' and A. tabuliforme, this variety's leaves are green toward the middle and tipped with dark red.
Aeonium davidbramwelli 'Sunburst': This variety is a shorter, 1- to 2-foot tall plant but has rosettes up to 1 foot across with pale yellow, white and green stripes, and pink tips.
Aeonium haworthii 'Tricolor' or 'Kiwi': An easy growing 2- to 3-foot plant, it has 4-inch flowers that have pale yellow centers when young, maturing to red and green.
Potting and Repotting
Needing so little soil, Aeoniums are great for growing in containers, where you can get a closer look at their unique features and have better control over their growing conditions. In high humidity or rainy areas, you may not need to water them at all. Choose a container with a drainage hole to avoid standing water and root rot. To help maintain the necessary moisture levels, use a regular potting mix rather than a fast-draining succulent/cactus mix.
If you are growing Aeoniums in containers, re-pot every 2 to 3 years with fresh potting soil.
Propagating Aeoniums
Like many succulents, Aeoniums are very easy to propagate from cuttings. Even stem pieces that fall off the plant may readily take root in the surrounding soil.
Cut off a stem piece containing a leaf rosette. Place the cutting in shade and allow the cut end to heal for about three days.
Fill a small pot with drainage holes with a mixture of half regular potting soil and half cactus/succulent potting mix. Place the severed end of the cutting into the potting mix, just deep enough to hold it upright. Place the pot in bright indirect light and water it lightly once each week.
Once the plant has developed strong roots, allow the top 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering. Re-pot into a larger container as needed.
Most Aeoniums are monocarpic, meaning that the mother plant dies after flowering. However, if the plant has produced side shoots, those side shoots will live on. If not, the entire plant will die off. That's why it is nice to start new plants from cuttings periodically. You can also start new plants from the seed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月13日
What are the origins of plant rooting hormones
Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own.
In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success
Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not?
What is the 'best' time to take cuttings?
Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing.
When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots.
Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted
How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings?
How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield?
Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts.
An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical.
Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours.
Root cuttings by Quick Dip
How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings?
The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings.
Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution.
Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list.
Use fertilizers and fungicides with care
Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required.
Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots
I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray?
What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD?
Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots.
When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately.
Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield
How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media?
How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes?
How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly.
Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate.
After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA);
Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield.
Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions
HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS
Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA.
These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
Since Medieval times plant growers have known that many plants can be propagated from cuttings. The new plants have the same characteristics as the parent plant. Some cuttings root easily, some with difficulty and some never on their own.
In the 1930's horticultural researchers isolated the plant growth regulators which promote rooting of cuttings and improve the root mass of rooted plants. These regulators even produce rooting of some cuttings which do not self root. In 1939, using these revolutionary regulators, Dutch scientists developed rooting products and techniques now used worldwide. The manufacturer, Rhizopon b.v., is the world's largest company solely devoted to plant rooting products and technology.
Select cuttings to improve rooting success
Why do cuttings from the same parent plant root while others do not?
What is the 'best' time to take cuttings?
Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing.
When taking shoot cuttings from the same plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current year shoots may root differently from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have had less sunlight then upper shoots; the upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. In general, younger shoots need less stimulation to root than older shoots and require a more stable propagation environment. Use a lower Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
It is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation, the origin of the cuttings, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and sticking, the date taken, the rooting method used and concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, the conditions at the time cuttings take root, and the relative quality of the roots.
Difficult cuttings CAN be rooted
How can I increase the rooting yield of difficult to root hardwood cuttings?
How do I control the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts to increase yield?
Some cuttings root with difficulty. Lacking success, some growers erroneously increase the concentration of Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts.
An increased concentration may inhibit root promotion. Try a LOW concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt with an INCREASED basal end immersion time. Increased immersion time allows the cutting to absorb the active ingredients. A low concentration is also economical.
Use the IMMERSE METHOD by immersing the basal end of cuttings approximately 1" into solution for 4-12 hours.
Root cuttings by Quick Dip
How do I use the QUICK DIP METHOD to root herbaceous or woody cuttings?
The QUICK DIP METHOD is a fast treatment method to root cuttings.
Quickly immerse the basal end of the cutting approximately 1" into solution.
Plant immediately. Use rates as suggested on the plant list.
Use fertilizers and fungicides with care
Can I use fertilizers or fungicides with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts do not contain fertilizers or fungicides. Apply these materials based upon plant requirements. When rooting cuttings do not fertilize until after root initiation. Fertilizer salts may dehydrate the cutting. When transplanting you can apply or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts with fertilizer at the same time. Fungicides may inhibit root formation by stressing plant tissue and slowing rooting and plant growth. Use fungicides only as required.
Two easy ways to produce symmetric roots
I use the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD to root herbaceous cuttings such as chrysanthemum. How do I know how much solution to spray?
What is the difference in performance between the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD and TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD?
Using either the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® or TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD, Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts develop symmetric roots on herbaceous plant cuttings. The active ingredients are absorbed into the leaves and stems then transported to the basal end where it induces roots.
When using the SPRAY DRIP DOWN® METHOD first plant the cuttings. Spray the leaves with solution until the liquid drips down into the media near the basal end. Use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts at rates suggested on the plant list. For broad leaf cuttings it might be easier to use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD. The cutting is immersed a few seconds in the solution. Plant immediately.
Transplants have improved success. Roses have higher flower yield
How do I improve transplanting of bare root plants, plugs, and plants in media?
How many times should I treat plants with Rhizopon or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts?
How do I increase flower yield when transplanting young rose bushes?
How can I improve transplant success of Christmas trees? I want to improve our reforestation program which requires that conservation plants recover quickly.
Treatment with Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts help the rooted plants regenerate roots rapidly so to rapidly absorb water and nutrients. The plants develop a strong early root mass before sprout initiation. Select the method of application based upon practical needs. Treat once at planting time.
For plants in plug or root ball, spray or dip with solution until the media is saturated. For herbaceous plants use Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA); for woody plants use about twice this rate.
After treating the roots optionally spray the leaves and stems lightly with a solution using Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts (at 50-100 ppm IBA);
Using IMMERSION ABSORPTION, trees, shrubs, and other plants planted in the field, nursery bed, or greenhouse have less transplant shock and stress. Treated young rose bush transplants have earlier and increased flower yield.
Product Selection to make Fresh Rooting Solutions
HORTUS IBA WATER SOLUBLE SALTS
Use the easy to measure powder with water to make your own freshest solutions in any concentration. You can make solutions to over 100,000 ppm IBA active ingredients. The Salts are an economical for making large solution volumes. Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts is an easier to use and registered replacement technical IBA and K-IBA.
These plant rooting products are completely free of potentially phyto-toxic and flammable alcohol. You make solutions from very dilute to extremely concentrated. The solutions are odorless. Both are US EPA registered with WPS Zero Hour REI. Growers can apply the products and remain in the growing area. There is minimum PPE with no notification requirement.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月11日
Basics of taking plant cuttings
Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants.
Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale.
Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best.
Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant
Seasonal Variation
Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots.
Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings.
Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment.
Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings.
An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM
Keep good notes
When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc.
Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment
Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment
Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'.
Treatment
Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method.
Selection of media for rooting of cuttings
Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
Plant shoot cuttings are usually taken from plant growth of the current growing season. Cuttings may be taken from various stages of plant growth. The range of cuttings is from succulent to hardwood. It is not possible to state one type of cutting which is useful for all plants.
Adjust the timing to take cuttings based upon the locale.
Cutting for most plants propagated in the greenhouse can usually be taken at any time. Cuttings from deciduous plants are usually taken in early summer. Cutting should not usually be taken from the end of a branch nor the top part, rather, in between. Testing and experience will allow you to select at what stage of maturity each type of plant will root best.
Select the 'best' time to take cuttings from the stock plant
Seasonal Variation
Some cutting from the same stock plant may root while others may not. There may be a 'best time' to take cuttings from the plant. Rooting of cuttings is affected by many variables. Some plants have different rooting ability at different times of the year. A few weeks difference in taking of cuttings may produce success or failure. Woody plants are especially influenced by timing. After a certain age, often years, some plants may even have difficulty producing cutting viable to produce roots.
Juvenile cuttings
Some plants produce better rooting when cuttings are taken from juvenile parts of the plant. When taking shoot cuttings from the same stock plant at the same time some cuttings may have different rooting ability. While a cutting may be young in growth age they may be old relative to the stem from which the cutting is taken. Physically young cuttings taken from the top of a two year old tree branch may exhibit root initiation performance as if they were two year old cuttings.
Cuttings taken from near the base of the plant may exhibit rooting characteristics similar to the real age of the cuttings; months old rather than years old. One reason may be the position of the shoots on the plant. Current years shoots may root different from second year shoots. Shoots from the lower part of the plant may have less sunlight than the upper shoots. The upper shoots may be a few weeks older than the lower shoots. Younger shoots need less stimulation, to root than older shoots; use a lower Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration. The younger shoots require a more stable propagation environment.
Sometimes it is beneficial to induce juvenility by maintaining relatively young mother plants or to hedge the young mother plants. Pruning of the mother plants should be limited since the mother plant must constantly produce energy to produce new shoots. Change the mother plants frequently to induce better quality cuttings.
An excellent short description of juvenile plants, taken from 'Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation' by Wesley Hackett in Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reprinted in the DISCUSSION FORUM
Keep good notes
When taking cuttings it is important to keep notes. Include data such as the number of days after a key repeatable event, such as the flowering of forsythia to account for seasonal variation. Also note the origin of the cutting, the time and weather when the cuttings were taken and time of sticking, the date, etc.
Care of cuttings before Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts treatment
Plant cuttings to be rooted should be propagated soon after being taken from the stock plant. Cuttings of some plants may be kept fresh by keeping the basal end wrapped in moist fabric until ready to treat and plant. Do not keep unused cutting for an extended period. Stored in plastic, some cuttings, such as prunus root stocks, can be kept fresh by storing in a cool place. Keep the cuttings for a day or so in cold storage (about 40F) with a high relative humidity (95%) to give the cuttings a good turgor. Tropical plants are often stored at room temperature.
Wounding: notching the cuttings before treatment
Some plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more easily if a small notch or wound is made at the basal end before treating with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. The cuts often 1/2-3/4 inch long made with a 'v' cut. Tropical and other herbaceous plants are usually not 'wounded'.
Treatment
Treat the cuttings with the Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts rooting products according to the need of the plant and the desired method.
Selection of media for rooting of cuttings
Different kinds of media are used for rooting cuttings of different species of plants. The grower should select the media appropriate for the plant. Some media variations commonly used are all peat moss, combinations of peat with sand, all sand, rockwool, and pearlite or vermiculite with soil mixes. When you use media, such as rockwool, which have no retention properties you must lower the Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts concentration.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月08日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe arborescens is a species of flowering succulent perennial plant endemic to the south eastern part of Southern Africa. Aloe arborescens has adapted to many different habitats, its natural habitat usually consists of mountainous areas including rocky outcrops and exposed ridges. Its habitat can vary and is one of only a few species of aloe that is found growing from sea level up to the tops of mountains.
Description: Aloe arborescens can grow to 2m (6.5 feet) tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth-edged leaves which are 15-22cm (6-7 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two or three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.
Houseplant care: Aloe arborescens is an easy to grow houseplant as long as the light requirements are met.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe arborescens. They do well in full sunlight. No Aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe arborescens grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Water: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Aloe arborescens should be moved into one size larger pot every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year.
Propagation: Offsets can be taken from the base of the plant in early summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation purposes.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem and these root more easily than the rosettes which are higher up.
Offsets will root in two or three weeks in the standard potting mixture is some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the mixture to drying out between waterings.
Problems:
Melly bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of the rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Use an insecticide soap or make one from dish detergent (free of perfumes and additives if it is possible) mixed in a week concentration with water and spay the plants. After treatment washing the plant is recommended. Alternatively, use an adequate pesticide. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
Uses: Grown in containers, Aloe arborescens make a remarkable houseplant or installed on porches, patios, decks, etc.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 1.8-2.4m (6-8 feet)
Wide: 1.2m (4 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – Low
Hardiness zones: 9b-11
Description: Aloe arborescens can grow to 2m (6.5 feet) tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth-edged leaves which are 15-22cm (6-7 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two or three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.
Houseplant care: Aloe arborescens is an easy to grow houseplant as long as the light requirements are met.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe arborescens. They do well in full sunlight. No Aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe arborescens grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Water: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Aloe arborescens should be moved into one size larger pot every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year.
Propagation: Offsets can be taken from the base of the plant in early summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation purposes.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem and these root more easily than the rosettes which are higher up.
Offsets will root in two or three weeks in the standard potting mixture is some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the mixture to drying out between waterings.
Problems:
Melly bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of the rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Use an insecticide soap or make one from dish detergent (free of perfumes and additives if it is possible) mixed in a week concentration with water and spay the plants. After treatment washing the plant is recommended. Alternatively, use an adequate pesticide. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
Uses: Grown in containers, Aloe arborescens make a remarkable houseplant or installed on porches, patios, decks, etc.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 1.8-2.4m (6-8 feet)
Wide: 1.2m (4 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – Low
Hardiness zones: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月07日
Distribution and habitat: Sansevieria cylindrica is a succulent plant native to Angola. It is an evergreen perennial plant forming dense stands, spreading by creeping rhizome, which is sometimes above ground, sometimes underground. These plants in the wild frequently form diffuse colonies.
Description: Sansevieria cylindrica has striped, tubular leaves that are smooth and a green-gray colour with a dark-green striped pattern or just dark green colour in some cases. The leaves have pointed tips. A single leaf is about 3cm (1 inch) thick and grows to a height between 1 and 2m (3-7 feet). The Sansevieria cylindrica grows fan-shaped from underground rhizomes, its stiff leaves rising from a basal rosette. Plants are rigid, ribbed lengthwise and dark green cross-banded with grey-green when young. Long flower spikes may appear erratically on mature plants, arising from the base of the spears shaped leaves. The 3cm (1 inch) greenish-white tubular flowers are tinged with pink growing in clusters on an erect flower spike. Sansevieria cylindrica tends to bloom more readily from a young age than other varieties. These flowers are not particularly showy, but they are nicely fragrant. Occasionally flowers will be followed by spherical orange-red berries to about 1cm (0.4 inch) in diameter.
These interesting plants are one of the most unusual plants. The plant cylindrical spears that spring from the sandy soil can be braided or left in their natural fan shape. Best of all, they can be almost ignored and the plant will thrive.
Sansevieria cylindrica are extremely long lived plants.
Houseplant care: Sansevieria cylindrica is popular as an ornamental plant as it is easy to culture and take care of in a home. Truly, they thrive on neglect. One exception to this rule: their pots must be well drained.
Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to keep them dust-free. Every leaf is tipped with narrow awl-shaped point and care should be taken not to damage it; a leaf with a broken tip will stop growing.
The growth is relatively slow and plants last for many years.
Light: Sansevieria cylindrica likes bright light and can stand plenty of direct sunlight. They will tolerate a certain amount of shade – at a slight shaded window – without detriment to their growth, but will virtually stop growing if they are forced to live in poor light for any length of time. But, they will survive in poor light.
When growing in high light, the leaves will grow more upright, desired look for a nice container plant.
Temperature: As native of the tropics, these plants thrive in average to warm room temperatures; from 18-26°C (65-79°F) suits them ideally. It will tolerate fluctuating temperatures, but never subject them to temperatures below 13°C (55°F).
Sansevieria cylindrica will tolerate dry air, but keep it away from air vents or drafts. Average room humidity will be satisfactory for this plant.
Watering: During the active growth period water only moderately, giving enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout at each watering, but allowing the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out before watering again.
During the rest period allow at least half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Overwatering leads to rot and cause the leaves to topple over at the point where they join the rootstock. Water the soil, taking care not to get water on the leaves, which will cause them to rot. If the leaves turn yellow or get soft and mushy at their base, the plant is overwatered. Empty the plant saucers after watering, to avoid that stagnant water to damage the roots.
The species is drought-tolerant and grown indoors it needs water only about once every other week during the active growing season.
Feeding: Do not over-fertilise these plants. Apply a liquid fertiliser about once a month to all plants during the active growth period, but only at half strength.
Potting and repotting: Repot in spring, only when plants get crowded and need dividing. Sansevieria cylindrica do not mind cramped root conditions and so can be left undisturbed for several years. Fleshy, usually cream-coloured roots will often appear on the surface of the potting mixture, but these plants do not really need repotting until they crack their pots. Ideally, the plants should be moved on shortly before reaching this stage, when the leaves occupy most of the pot surface. Keep the rosette of the leaves at soil level. Use a wide, heavy container to prevent toppling as this tall plant tend to be top-heavy. Repotting is best done in early spring.
In years when plants are not repotted, top-dress them with fresh potting mixture, first scraping away some of the loose old mixture carefully so as not to do any damage to the near surface roots.
For open, quick drainage add one-third coarse sand to a soil-based potting mixture and put plenty of clay-pot fragments or other drainage material into the bottom of the pot.
Gardening: Sansevieria cylindrica can be grown in the garden in mild to tropical climates and it is not fussy. When planting in ground space plants to allow clumps to form and develop properly. If planted too tightly there will not be enough room for root expansion and plants will not reach their full height and bloom potential.
In very cold zones a containerized Sansevieria can be brought inside for the winter months, when the temperatures drops below 13°C (55°F). Plants that have been living in the shade should not be moved to a sunny position without gradual acclimatization; sudden prolonged exposure to sunlight can result in leaf burn.
Position: It can be grown outdoors in partial shade. This plant needs only partial sunlight, avoiding midday direct sunshine which could cause unaesthetic burnings on the foliage.
Soil: Sansevieria cylindrica needs good drainage. Plant in ground in well drained, sandy soil enriched with peaty compost.
Irrigation: Sansevieria cylindrica only needs watering about once or twice a month during the warmer season and it should be kept drier in winter.
This plant is very drought resistant. Do not over-water it, especially in winter.
Fertilising: Mixing a small amount of slow time release fertiliser into the lower level of the soil before planting speeds up the rate of growth. However, fertiliser can be detrimental to Sansevieria cylindrica and too much can kill the plant. Use a cactus fertiliser or slow time release fertiliser once a month.
These plants are light feeders, however unfertilized they will tend to grow very slow. Do not overfertilise them. Always, less is better than too much fertiliser for these plants.
Propagation: Sansevieria cylindrica can be propagated by dividing up overcrowded clumps of leaves. Detach clusters of leaves from rootstock with a sharp knife when the leaves are 15cm (6 inch) long. Most clusters will have some roots attached and can be planted directly in the normal potting mixture; those without roots will root quickly in a mixture of peat moss and sand.
Sever suckers from the parent can be done when two or there leaves have been formed.
Also, these plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Slice leaves crosswise into 5cm (2 inch) long pieces, remembering which is the top and which is the bottom because cuttings must be planted right end up. Push three or four leaf sections about 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) into a moistened mixture of peat moss and sand in an 8cm (3 inch) pot, place them in bright light and water sparingly, just enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. Eventually, rhizomes will be produced, but it is a slow process.
Problems: Any problems with growing Sansevieria cylindrica are usually related to watering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. If in doubt, keep it on the dry side. The only things that will kill this plant is soggy soil and prolonged exposure to cold temperatures.
Rotting at the base with leaves yellowing and drying back is normally due to overwatering.
Treatment: If part of the plant is still healthy, cut this away, repot and keep it warm and dry.
Curling leaves are the result of underwatering in summer.
Keep a careful watch for vine weevils which often eat pieces from the edges of leaves, causing irremediable damage.
Treatment: Pick up and destroy adults. Plants with badly damaged roots cannot usually be saved. Immediately on sighting an adult weevil, drench the potting mixture with a suitable pesticide.
Note: Watch out for the pointed tips of Sansevieria cylindrica cylindrical leaves as they are sharp.
Uses and display: Sansevieria cylindrica are a tall growing kinds very decorative in grouping, where they can be used to provide compact vertical contrast with different kinds of lower growing bushy or rosette-shaped plants. Its easy-going nature and tolerance of dry air and soil also make it a reliable office plant. The appearance of these plants is greatly enhanced by an attractive pottery container.
This plant can be used with equal effectiveness as an accent plant or in mass in planters or beds.
Sansevieria use the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. This purportedly makes them suitable bedroom plants. However, since the leaves are potentially poisonous if ingested, Sansevieria is not usually recommended for children’s bedrooms.
Sansevieria species are believed to act as good air purifiers by removing toxins (such as formaldehyde, xylene and toluene) from the air, thereby gaining a reputation as a good cure for sick building syndrome.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Shape – upright
Height: 60-90cm (24.36 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Temperature in active growth period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 11
Description: Sansevieria cylindrica has striped, tubular leaves that are smooth and a green-gray colour with a dark-green striped pattern or just dark green colour in some cases. The leaves have pointed tips. A single leaf is about 3cm (1 inch) thick and grows to a height between 1 and 2m (3-7 feet). The Sansevieria cylindrica grows fan-shaped from underground rhizomes, its stiff leaves rising from a basal rosette. Plants are rigid, ribbed lengthwise and dark green cross-banded with grey-green when young. Long flower spikes may appear erratically on mature plants, arising from the base of the spears shaped leaves. The 3cm (1 inch) greenish-white tubular flowers are tinged with pink growing in clusters on an erect flower spike. Sansevieria cylindrica tends to bloom more readily from a young age than other varieties. These flowers are not particularly showy, but they are nicely fragrant. Occasionally flowers will be followed by spherical orange-red berries to about 1cm (0.4 inch) in diameter.
These interesting plants are one of the most unusual plants. The plant cylindrical spears that spring from the sandy soil can be braided or left in their natural fan shape. Best of all, they can be almost ignored and the plant will thrive.
Sansevieria cylindrica are extremely long lived plants.
Houseplant care: Sansevieria cylindrica is popular as an ornamental plant as it is easy to culture and take care of in a home. Truly, they thrive on neglect. One exception to this rule: their pots must be well drained.
Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to keep them dust-free. Every leaf is tipped with narrow awl-shaped point and care should be taken not to damage it; a leaf with a broken tip will stop growing.
The growth is relatively slow and plants last for many years.
Light: Sansevieria cylindrica likes bright light and can stand plenty of direct sunlight. They will tolerate a certain amount of shade – at a slight shaded window – without detriment to their growth, but will virtually stop growing if they are forced to live in poor light for any length of time. But, they will survive in poor light.
When growing in high light, the leaves will grow more upright, desired look for a nice container plant.
Temperature: As native of the tropics, these plants thrive in average to warm room temperatures; from 18-26°C (65-79°F) suits them ideally. It will tolerate fluctuating temperatures, but never subject them to temperatures below 13°C (55°F).
Sansevieria cylindrica will tolerate dry air, but keep it away from air vents or drafts. Average room humidity will be satisfactory for this plant.
Watering: During the active growth period water only moderately, giving enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout at each watering, but allowing the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out before watering again.
During the rest period allow at least half of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Overwatering leads to rot and cause the leaves to topple over at the point where they join the rootstock. Water the soil, taking care not to get water on the leaves, which will cause them to rot. If the leaves turn yellow or get soft and mushy at their base, the plant is overwatered. Empty the plant saucers after watering, to avoid that stagnant water to damage the roots.
The species is drought-tolerant and grown indoors it needs water only about once every other week during the active growing season.
Feeding: Do not over-fertilise these plants. Apply a liquid fertiliser about once a month to all plants during the active growth period, but only at half strength.
Potting and repotting: Repot in spring, only when plants get crowded and need dividing. Sansevieria cylindrica do not mind cramped root conditions and so can be left undisturbed for several years. Fleshy, usually cream-coloured roots will often appear on the surface of the potting mixture, but these plants do not really need repotting until they crack their pots. Ideally, the plants should be moved on shortly before reaching this stage, when the leaves occupy most of the pot surface. Keep the rosette of the leaves at soil level. Use a wide, heavy container to prevent toppling as this tall plant tend to be top-heavy. Repotting is best done in early spring.
In years when plants are not repotted, top-dress them with fresh potting mixture, first scraping away some of the loose old mixture carefully so as not to do any damage to the near surface roots.
For open, quick drainage add one-third coarse sand to a soil-based potting mixture and put plenty of clay-pot fragments or other drainage material into the bottom of the pot.
Gardening: Sansevieria cylindrica can be grown in the garden in mild to tropical climates and it is not fussy. When planting in ground space plants to allow clumps to form and develop properly. If planted too tightly there will not be enough room for root expansion and plants will not reach their full height and bloom potential.
In very cold zones a containerized Sansevieria can be brought inside for the winter months, when the temperatures drops below 13°C (55°F). Plants that have been living in the shade should not be moved to a sunny position without gradual acclimatization; sudden prolonged exposure to sunlight can result in leaf burn.
Position: It can be grown outdoors in partial shade. This plant needs only partial sunlight, avoiding midday direct sunshine which could cause unaesthetic burnings on the foliage.
Soil: Sansevieria cylindrica needs good drainage. Plant in ground in well drained, sandy soil enriched with peaty compost.
Irrigation: Sansevieria cylindrica only needs watering about once or twice a month during the warmer season and it should be kept drier in winter.
This plant is very drought resistant. Do not over-water it, especially in winter.
Fertilising: Mixing a small amount of slow time release fertiliser into the lower level of the soil before planting speeds up the rate of growth. However, fertiliser can be detrimental to Sansevieria cylindrica and too much can kill the plant. Use a cactus fertiliser or slow time release fertiliser once a month.
These plants are light feeders, however unfertilized they will tend to grow very slow. Do not overfertilise them. Always, less is better than too much fertiliser for these plants.
Propagation: Sansevieria cylindrica can be propagated by dividing up overcrowded clumps of leaves. Detach clusters of leaves from rootstock with a sharp knife when the leaves are 15cm (6 inch) long. Most clusters will have some roots attached and can be planted directly in the normal potting mixture; those without roots will root quickly in a mixture of peat moss and sand.
Sever suckers from the parent can be done when two or there leaves have been formed.
Also, these plants can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Slice leaves crosswise into 5cm (2 inch) long pieces, remembering which is the top and which is the bottom because cuttings must be planted right end up. Push three or four leaf sections about 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) into a moistened mixture of peat moss and sand in an 8cm (3 inch) pot, place them in bright light and water sparingly, just enough to make the potting mixture barely moist. Eventually, rhizomes will be produced, but it is a slow process.
Problems: Any problems with growing Sansevieria cylindrica are usually related to watering. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. If in doubt, keep it on the dry side. The only things that will kill this plant is soggy soil and prolonged exposure to cold temperatures.
Rotting at the base with leaves yellowing and drying back is normally due to overwatering.
Treatment: If part of the plant is still healthy, cut this away, repot and keep it warm and dry.
Curling leaves are the result of underwatering in summer.
Keep a careful watch for vine weevils which often eat pieces from the edges of leaves, causing irremediable damage.
Treatment: Pick up and destroy adults. Plants with badly damaged roots cannot usually be saved. Immediately on sighting an adult weevil, drench the potting mixture with a suitable pesticide.
Note: Watch out for the pointed tips of Sansevieria cylindrica cylindrical leaves as they are sharp.
Uses and display: Sansevieria cylindrica are a tall growing kinds very decorative in grouping, where they can be used to provide compact vertical contrast with different kinds of lower growing bushy or rosette-shaped plants. Its easy-going nature and tolerance of dry air and soil also make it a reliable office plant. The appearance of these plants is greatly enhanced by an attractive pottery container.
This plant can be used with equal effectiveness as an accent plant or in mass in planters or beds.
Sansevieria use the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen at night. This purportedly makes them suitable bedroom plants. However, since the leaves are potentially poisonous if ingested, Sansevieria is not usually recommended for children’s bedrooms.
Sansevieria species are believed to act as good air purifiers by removing toxins (such as formaldehyde, xylene and toluene) from the air, thereby gaining a reputation as a good cure for sick building syndrome.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Shape – upright
Height: 60-90cm (24.36 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Temperature in active growth period – min 13oC max 27oC (55-80oF)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月02日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe aristata is a species of evergreen flowering perennial plant in the subfamily Asphodelaceae. It is native to mountains grassland of South Africa and is therefore best suited to warm, dry conditions. These plants can be found growing up to 2300m (7500 feet) above sea level in their natural habitat and is one of the hardest species within its genus. They have become increasingly rare in the wild through harvesting.
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月01日
Use of plant rooting hormones with other growing agents
To save time, sometimes growers want to apply the rooting solution with a water based fungicide, or other growing agents, together. Selected rates for each product is used. Hortus USA does not recommend mixing Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts solutions with other plant growth agents. There are many compatibility variables. The grower assumes all responsibility for mixing; evaluation trials must be made on small lots before any production lots are treated.
The method of application determines where the solution acts on the plant cuttings. Basal applications only are to the basal area; the cutting basal end is then stuck below the soil level. Foliar spray drip down application is done after the cuttings have been stuck in media; the solution only reaches the portion of the cutting above the media. Foliar total immerse application has the solution reach all parts of the cutting. Consideration should be made which parts of the cutting are intended to be treated.
Media
When propagating plants from cuttings consideration of individual plant needs relative to the media selected. Some requirements for media selection are pH, the need for water retention, and the absolute necessity of air oxygen to the cuttings. Pond or bog plant cuttings need a media that retains large amounts of water. Succulent plant cuttings need media that allows air flow while retaining little amounts of water.
Most terrestrial plant cuttings from woody plants, annual or perennials need different types of media. Media selection will allow needed oxygen to reach the cuttings. Cleanliness, sometimes sterilization, is essential to avoid pathogen introduction to the cuttings. Media combinations, with sand or pearlite, promote air getting to the cuttings..
Control the temperature
Temperature influences the speed to root cuttings. Higher temperature produces faster effect. If possible keep the temperature between 65-70F. High temperature accelerates fungus and bacterial growth above 70F. High temperature of the ambient air stimulates the growth of shoots at the expense of roots. Keep the air temperature lower than the soil temperature.
Control the light
After Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt treatment and planting in media the cuttings need light and water. For cuttings with leaves light is required for photo-synthesis to develop natural foods in the form of carbohydrates. Provide shade on bright, hot days to avoid scalding the cuttings. Cuttings without leaves do not require light for rooting; they depend upon stored carbohydrates.
Control the humidity
To prevent the cuttings from dehydrating through the leaves and stems the cuttings are often propagated under mist systems in controlled greenhouses or tunnels, in cutting trays covered with plastic.
Control hardening off
After root initiation harden off slowly by reducing the temperature and humidity. Frequently observe the growing environment and take action to assure that there are no fungus, insects, pathogens, etc. After the cuttings are rooted control the environment to bring the temperature and humidity to the ambient level.
Control the carbon dioxide
Maintain the carbon dioxide at about 1000 ppm.
Testing is essential
The condition of the cuttings or the rooted plant and the resultant rooting potency varies from season to season. Check the results regularly. Adjust the dosage, timing and method of application of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt rooting products and other propagation materials. Fluctuation in the climate of the propagation area, varying light intensity, humidity, wetness of the media, type of media, frequency of watering, fungus growth, insect infestation, etc., will affect results. Carrying out a few tests will not take much time. The tests will keep you up to date with results. Tests go along with your normal growing operations and allow you to make timely corrective actions.
To save time, sometimes growers want to apply the rooting solution with a water based fungicide, or other growing agents, together. Selected rates for each product is used. Hortus USA does not recommend mixing Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts solutions with other plant growth agents. There are many compatibility variables. The grower assumes all responsibility for mixing; evaluation trials must be made on small lots before any production lots are treated.
The method of application determines where the solution acts on the plant cuttings. Basal applications only are to the basal area; the cutting basal end is then stuck below the soil level. Foliar spray drip down application is done after the cuttings have been stuck in media; the solution only reaches the portion of the cutting above the media. Foliar total immerse application has the solution reach all parts of the cutting. Consideration should be made which parts of the cutting are intended to be treated.
Media
When propagating plants from cuttings consideration of individual plant needs relative to the media selected. Some requirements for media selection are pH, the need for water retention, and the absolute necessity of air oxygen to the cuttings. Pond or bog plant cuttings need a media that retains large amounts of water. Succulent plant cuttings need media that allows air flow while retaining little amounts of water.
Most terrestrial plant cuttings from woody plants, annual or perennials need different types of media. Media selection will allow needed oxygen to reach the cuttings. Cleanliness, sometimes sterilization, is essential to avoid pathogen introduction to the cuttings. Media combinations, with sand or pearlite, promote air getting to the cuttings..
Control the temperature
Temperature influences the speed to root cuttings. Higher temperature produces faster effect. If possible keep the temperature between 65-70F. High temperature accelerates fungus and bacterial growth above 70F. High temperature of the ambient air stimulates the growth of shoots at the expense of roots. Keep the air temperature lower than the soil temperature.
Control the light
After Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt treatment and planting in media the cuttings need light and water. For cuttings with leaves light is required for photo-synthesis to develop natural foods in the form of carbohydrates. Provide shade on bright, hot days to avoid scalding the cuttings. Cuttings without leaves do not require light for rooting; they depend upon stored carbohydrates.
Control the humidity
To prevent the cuttings from dehydrating through the leaves and stems the cuttings are often propagated under mist systems in controlled greenhouses or tunnels, in cutting trays covered with plastic.
Control hardening off
After root initiation harden off slowly by reducing the temperature and humidity. Frequently observe the growing environment and take action to assure that there are no fungus, insects, pathogens, etc. After the cuttings are rooted control the environment to bring the temperature and humidity to the ambient level.
Control the carbon dioxide
Maintain the carbon dioxide at about 1000 ppm.
Testing is essential
The condition of the cuttings or the rooted plant and the resultant rooting potency varies from season to season. Check the results regularly. Adjust the dosage, timing and method of application of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salt rooting products and other propagation materials. Fluctuation in the climate of the propagation area, varying light intensity, humidity, wetness of the media, type of media, frequency of watering, fungus growth, insect infestation, etc., will affect results. Carrying out a few tests will not take much time. The tests will keep you up to date with results. Tests go along with your normal growing operations and allow you to make timely corrective actions.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月26日
Plants produce new individuals similar to themselves, which is called reproduction. This is a natural phenomenon that plants reproduce and continue species, and it is also one of the basic characteristics of plant life. There are five main propagation methods of flowers: sowing, cutting, rameting, grafting and layering.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
1. Sowing and breeding
basic concept
The sowing process is as follows: sterilize the soil in the sun, irrigate it with water, sprinkle the seeds evenly on the soil layer, then choose to cover the soil or not cover the leaves according to the size of the seeds, keep the soil moist, but do not accumulate water, move the flowerpot to the place with scattered light in time after the seeds germinate, and apply some liquid fertilizer, so that the seedlings can be transplanted when they have 2 ~ 3 leaves.
matters need attention
1. The sowing time of flowers is regular. Generally, open-field annual flowers and woody flowers are sown from March to April in spring, and the daily average temperature is stable at 15℃; open-field biennial flowers are mostly sown from August to September in autumn. The sowing date of greenhouse flowers often depends on the required flowering period. There is no strict seasonal restriction, but it is generally necessary to avoid the coldest and hottest seasons.
2. Flower seeds should absorb enough water before germination, and then they can extend radicle and germinate slowly. In order to meet the temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions required for seed germination, it is best to put the seeds in gauze bags before sowing, soak them in warm water at 40℃ for 24 hours, then spread them out on wet gauze, keep the gauze moist, and then sow them after the radicle of the seeds breaks through the seed coat.
3. Flower seeds are divided into four grades: large, medium, small and fine particles. The grain size of large seeds is above 0.5 cm, medium seeds are 0.2 ~ 0.5 cm, small seeds are 0.1 ~ 0.2 cm, and micro seeds are below 0.1 cm. Whether it is large, medium or small seeds, the sowing depth should be 2 ~ 3 times of the seed diameter. Large seeds can be sown in holes, the depth of which is 23 times of the diameter of the seeds, and the soil is flat with the bed surface after sowing; Medium-sized and small-sized seeds are first removed from the bed surface and then covered with a thin layer of soil; fine-sized seeds do not need to be covered with soil.
2. Cutting propagation
basic concept
Cutting propagation means taking a part of vegetative organs of a plant, inserting it into loose and wet soil or fine sand, and using its regeneration ability, making it take root and take branches to become a new plant.
Cuttage propagation
matters need attention
1. As the mother plant of cutting, it is required to have excellent varieties, vigorous growth and no diseases and insect pests, and the growing and aging plants should not be selected as the mother plant of cutting. On the same plant, the cuttings should choose branches whose middle and upper parts are sunny and full, and it is better to have shorter internodes, full bud heads and thick branches and leaves. On the same branch, hardwood cutting should choose the middle and lower parts of branches, because the middle and lower parts store more nutrients, while the tip tissues are often not full.
2. Cutting should be carried out immediately after cutting the sowing strips. Cutting strips such as rose, hibiscus syriacus, and clover, which are cut in late autumn, can be cut well, tied into bundles, buried in flowerpots with wet sand, and placed in a place where the indoor temperature is kept at 0~5℃. Pay attention not to make the sand too dry in winter, and then wait for the early spring of the following year before cutting. Flowers such as Chinese rose can also be cut in plastic shed in winter. Cuttings of succulent plants such as cactus should be dried in a ventilated place for about a week after cutting, and then cut when the cut mouth is slightly dry, otherwise it is easy to rot. Cutting cuttings of Begonia fortunei, oleander, etc., can be soaked in clear water after cutting, and can be directly planted into pots after rooting. For Chinese rose, Milan, etc., dip the lower mouth of cuttings in the injection of vitamin B, and then take it out for a minute or two, so that the liquid medicine can be sucked into cuttings and then inserted into coarse sand. This treatment can promote rooting.
3. After cuttage, management should be strengthened to create good rooting conditions for cuttings. Generally, rooting of flower cuttings requires both soil moisture and air circulation. Cover the cutting pots or beds with a cover made of glass plate or plastic film to keep the temperature and humidity. Small bricks should be placed under the hood to allow air to flow in. In summer and early autumn, the cuttage pots should be placed in shade during the day and in the open air at night; when the temperature is not enough in early, spring, late autumn and winter, they can be placed in warm places or greenhouses, but attention must be paid to the adjustment of temperature and humidity. In the future, according to the rooting speed of cuttings, gradually strengthen the illumination.
3. Branch propagation
basic concept
Ramet propagation is a method of dividing the sprouting branches, clumping branches, sucking buds and creeping branches of flowers from their mother plants and planting them as independent new plants, which is generally applicable to perennial flowers. The ramet method can be divided into two types: full division method and half division method.
division propagation
Full division method: dig out all the roots of the mother plants from the soil, and divide them into several small clusters by hand or scissors. Each small cluster can carry 1 ~ 3 branches, with roots at the lower part, and transplant them to other places or flowerpots respectively. After 3 ~ 4 years, it can be divided again.
Half-division method: when dividing plants, it is not necessary to dig out all the mother plants, but only dig out the soil around, on both sides or on one side of the mother plants to expose the root system, cut them into small clusters with l3 branches with roots at the lower part, and transplant these small clusters to other places to grow into new plants.
matters need attention
1. ramets have a high survival rate because they have complete roots, stems and leaves, but the number of reproduction is limited. This method is commonly used in strong species in tillering ability, such as Chimonanthus praecox, brown bamboo, phoenix-tailed bamboo, peony, peony, orchid, evergreen, Hosta Hosta, etc. In addition, small plants such as chlorophytum and Saxifraga stolonifera, and sucking buds (twigs) produced at the base of Sedum alfredii and Clematis chinensis in pulpy plants can be isolated and planted at any time.
2. Generally, flowers that bloom in early spring should be divided after stopping growing in autumn, and flowers that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided before sprouting in early spring.
4. Grafting and propagation
basic concept
Grafting is to use a part of the vegetative organs of plants to graft on other plants. Branches used for grafting are called scions, buds used are called grafted buds, grafted plants are called rootstocks, and grafted seedlings are called grafted seedlings. Grafting propagation is a good seed method for propagating clones, which is often used in plum blossom and rose. The principle of grafting survival is that the cambium of two plants with affinity heals at the junction, which makes the catheter and sieve tube communicate with each other to form a new individual.
Matters needing attention in grafting propagation
1. Grafting includes several methods, such as branch grafting, bud grafting, butt grafting (peeling off part of cortex of two plants with roots in bananas which are easy to approach in blue phase, and then joining with each other), pith grafting (scion and rootstock heal through pith), root grafting (using root as anvil), etc. However, no matter which method, attention should be paid to the management of temperature, light and water after grafting.
2. It is best to choose different plants which belong to the same genus or the same species as scions for rootstocks, because they have strong affinity, fast graft healing and high survival rate.
3. Rootstocks should have developed roots and strong growth, adapt to the local soil and climate, and have good resistance to pests.
4. Branches with full growth and full buds should be selected for scions.
5. The grafting season varies with different varieties of flowers and trees. For example, bud grafting for clove is mostly carried out in summer, and branch grafting for fuso can be carried out in spring and summer.
5, layering propagation
basic concept
Sliced propagation is a propagation method in which the branches attached to the mother plant form adventitious roots, and then cut off the mother plant to become a new individual. The layering propagation is mostly used for woody flowers which are easy to take root naturally in stems and internodes, but not easy to take root by cutting. The layering time can be carried out all the year round in warm areas, while it is mostly carried out in spring in the north. When layering propagation layering, in order to interrupt the downward transmission of organic substances (such as sugar, auxin and other substances) from the upper ends of leaves and branches, and make these substances accumulate on the upper parts of branches for use when rooting, ring peeling can be carried out. Applying IBA auxin to girdling site can promote rooting.
There are three layering methods: ordinary layering method, soil piling layering method and high branch layering method.
1. The common layering method is mostly used for vine flowers with soft and slender branches, such as Yingchun, Honeysuckle and Lingxiao. When layering, the periphery of the mother plant is bent into an arc shape, the bent protruding part is cut and buried in the soil, and then the bent part is fixed with hooks, and the mother plant can be cut off after it takes root, and then transplanted.
2. The method of stacking soil and layering is suitable for deciduous shrubs with strong tufts and hard branches that are not easy to bend, such as Redwood, Ulmus pumila and Rosa roxburghii. In early summer, the lower part of its branches is peeled for about 1 cm at a distance of about 25 cm from the soil, and then it is cultivated around the mother plant, and the lower part of the whole plant cluster is buried in the soil, and the soil pile is kept moist. After rooting and before sprouting in the next spring, dig the mound, cut the branches from the base to separate the mother plants, and then transplant them separately.
3. High-branch layering method is mostly used for evergreen flowers and trees, such as white orchid, Milan, smiling, etc. Generally, the layering of high branches is carried out in the peak growth season. The well-developed biennial branches are selected and peeled annularly at their proper positions. Then peat soil, mountain mud, moss, etc. are packed in plastic bags, which are used to wrap the branches, pour water through them, and fasten and fix the bags tightly. In the future, pay attention to timely water supply to keep the culture soil moist. After the branches take root, cut off the mother body from the bottom of the bag, remove the wrapped plastic bag, plant it in a pot with soil, and keep it in a cool place. After a large number of new shoots germinate, see you again.
The most obvious advantage of layering propagation is that it is easy to survive and can keep the characteristics of original varieties. This method can be used for some varieties that are difficult to reproduce by other propagation methods.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月24日
Distribution and habitat: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent sub-shrub native of Madagascar. It is found on granite rocks, growing up to 45cm (1.5 feet) tall.
The dense covering of hairs performs a vital function for the plant as water conservation adaptation. In the dry environment in which it lives, the plant must conserve what little water it can absorb from the soil. The dense mat of hairs growing from the leaf retards the movement of air directly across the leaf surface, thereby reducing water vapor loss due to transpiration process. In the same time, this unventilated space created by the numerous trichomes insulates the leaf from its harsh external environment, too. In addition, the white-silver appearance of the leaves reflects light, lessening the chances of the leaves overheating.
Description: The Kalanchoe tomentosa is a very handsome foliage species. It has loose rosette of oval leaves borne on woody stems up to 45cm (1.5 feet) high. The 3-8cm (1-3 inch) long leaves are covered with fine, bristly hairs, which are silvered-coloured except in patches at the edge, where they change to rusty orange on young leaves or chocolate brown on older ones.
The thick stem produces branches and many groups of leaves, once it matures. When they are pruned well they have a kind of tree or bush look and can produce branches growing below pot level – therefore, this plant is suitable for growing in a hanging at this stage. The leaves are mainly oval shaped, although it is likely to have few leaves randomly grow in whatever shape and form.
Although this plant can flower within its natural habitat, producing fuzzy, bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer – it is rare to see flowers bloom indoors, so it is grown for primarily its foliage within homes or offices.
Proper care: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a fairly easy succulent plant species to care for and maintain.
If the furry leaves of this plant need to be cleaned, brush them gently with a soft, dry brush, such as a small paintbrush.
Light: Kalanchoe tomentosa is – like many other succulents loves growing in bright light and sunshine. This plant prefers a mixture of direct and indirect sunlight or shade.
Temperature: Temperatures between 15-23ºC (60-75ºF) are advised. Like most plants, Kalanchoe tomentosa will benefit from good ventilation, but should not be exposed to prolonged draughts.
Normal room humidity is fine and it may also tolerate dry air.
Watering: Only water Kalanchoe tomentosa once the soil has become dry and then soak the soil, but do not leave water in the bottom tray. During the winter this plant needs less water.
Because Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent – it stores water within its leaves – even if it is neglected for a period of time the plant will survive.
Water from the bottom or water the potting mix. Avoid getting the furry leaves of this plant wet because they’ll easily rot.
Feeding: Feed Kalanchoe tomentosa once every four weeks with a diluted fertiliser, from spring until the end of summer. Do not fertilise this plant during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a cacti and succulent potting mixture or a soil based potting mixture with the addition of a small amount of coarse sand. Good drainage is important; have a shallow layer of clay-pot fragments at the bottom of the pot. Kalanchoe tomentosa plant is a slow grower which will only need repotting into pots one size larger once every two years and then less once it matures. The maximum pot size needed should be about 13cm (5 inch).
Gardening: Kalanchoe tomentosa is one of the easiest-to-grow succulents and looks wonderful mass planted in a hot spot in the garden. It needs dry conditions and is not suited to outdoor planting in high rainfall areas.
Kalanchoe tomentosa branches freely to make a prostrate clump. After a while, it can become straggly and should be clipped back to keep it in check and make it neat and tidy.
They need warm temperature and should be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F). Protect them from frost. These plants come from very warm areas and may develop rot if kept too cool.
Position: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants need light shade or shade in summer. Bright light will give the plant a woolliest appearance. However, it should not be subjected to the direct sun of midday.
Soil: Kalanchoe tomentosa needs a porous soil containing about one third grit with adequate drainage. Soil mix consisting of 2 parts sand to 1 part loam, with small gravel added to increase drainage
Irrigation: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants are drought tolerant, but came from damper climates than most succulents and like more water in the summer. Plants are watered and allow to dry thoroughly before watering again.
Fertilise: Fertilise only during the growing season (Spring and Summer) with a balanced cactus food or a liquid fertiliser diluted to half the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken and planted in new soil during spring. Give the leaf cutting a week of drying out before re-potting, then they are expect to begin rooting within 4 weeks.
Propagation: It is propagated by stem cutting or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. The trimmings resulted from shaping the plant, make ideal cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry out before repotting. These cuttings root easily in 8cm pots (3 inch) filled with a mixture of peat moss and sand. Place the pots in a warm position in bright filtered light. Water the mixture whenever the top 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) dries out. The cuttings usually will produce roots in about 4 weeks. When roots have formed and new growth appears, move each young plant into a pot of standard mixture. Make sure that the pot is large enough to hold the roots. Thereafter, it should be possible to treat the plant as a mature Kalanchoe tomentosa.
Problems: Kalanchoe tomentosa, like most members of the Crassulaceae family, have succulent leaves which are a great attraction for pests such as mealy bugs. While this species is no more prone to attack than others, because of the silvery-white hairy leaves, it is easy to miss the first signs of these pests. Treatment: A regular, careful inspection is sensible. Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
If rot affects the plant, it normally starts at the root.
Treatment: If spotted early, cuttings can be made easily from the tips of the stems to make new plants.
Recommended varieties:
Kalanchoe tomentosa cv. Chocolate Soldier: Individual leaves are more red-brown all around the edges and thinner and longer than for the standard species. It also grows a bit faster with more of a clumping habit.
Toxicity: All parts of Kalanchoe tomentosa plant are poisonous if ingested.
Uses and display: Once the Kalanchoe tomentosa plants matures, they look fantastic placed within a hanging basket or sitting in a conservatory. A conservatory is ideal because they do like their bright light and some sun. Whilst they are still small and growing, then near windows and on shelves which receive enough sunlight are good spots for displaying them.
Grow this Kalanchoe tomentosa in a rock garden or on a rock wall in mild climates. In cold areas, this heat-loving plant is grown as indoor plant or it is planted outdoors as an annual.
Kalanchoe tomentosa is drought-tolerant, therefore it is suitable for xeriscaping.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 45cm (1.5 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – sparingly
Light – direct
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
The dense covering of hairs performs a vital function for the plant as water conservation adaptation. In the dry environment in which it lives, the plant must conserve what little water it can absorb from the soil. The dense mat of hairs growing from the leaf retards the movement of air directly across the leaf surface, thereby reducing water vapor loss due to transpiration process. In the same time, this unventilated space created by the numerous trichomes insulates the leaf from its harsh external environment, too. In addition, the white-silver appearance of the leaves reflects light, lessening the chances of the leaves overheating.
Description: The Kalanchoe tomentosa is a very handsome foliage species. It has loose rosette of oval leaves borne on woody stems up to 45cm (1.5 feet) high. The 3-8cm (1-3 inch) long leaves are covered with fine, bristly hairs, which are silvered-coloured except in patches at the edge, where they change to rusty orange on young leaves or chocolate brown on older ones.
The thick stem produces branches and many groups of leaves, once it matures. When they are pruned well they have a kind of tree or bush look and can produce branches growing below pot level – therefore, this plant is suitable for growing in a hanging at this stage. The leaves are mainly oval shaped, although it is likely to have few leaves randomly grow in whatever shape and form.
Although this plant can flower within its natural habitat, producing fuzzy, bell-shaped flowers in spring and summer – it is rare to see flowers bloom indoors, so it is grown for primarily its foliage within homes or offices.
Proper care: Kalanchoe tomentosa is a fairly easy succulent plant species to care for and maintain.
If the furry leaves of this plant need to be cleaned, brush them gently with a soft, dry brush, such as a small paintbrush.
Light: Kalanchoe tomentosa is – like many other succulents loves growing in bright light and sunshine. This plant prefers a mixture of direct and indirect sunlight or shade.
Temperature: Temperatures between 15-23ºC (60-75ºF) are advised. Like most plants, Kalanchoe tomentosa will benefit from good ventilation, but should not be exposed to prolonged draughts.
Normal room humidity is fine and it may also tolerate dry air.
Watering: Only water Kalanchoe tomentosa once the soil has become dry and then soak the soil, but do not leave water in the bottom tray. During the winter this plant needs less water.
Because Kalanchoe tomentosa is a succulent – it stores water within its leaves – even if it is neglected for a period of time the plant will survive.
Water from the bottom or water the potting mix. Avoid getting the furry leaves of this plant wet because they’ll easily rot.
Feeding: Feed Kalanchoe tomentosa once every four weeks with a diluted fertiliser, from spring until the end of summer. Do not fertilise this plant during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a cacti and succulent potting mixture or a soil based potting mixture with the addition of a small amount of coarse sand. Good drainage is important; have a shallow layer of clay-pot fragments at the bottom of the pot. Kalanchoe tomentosa plant is a slow grower which will only need repotting into pots one size larger once every two years and then less once it matures. The maximum pot size needed should be about 13cm (5 inch).
Gardening: Kalanchoe tomentosa is one of the easiest-to-grow succulents and looks wonderful mass planted in a hot spot in the garden. It needs dry conditions and is not suited to outdoor planting in high rainfall areas.
Kalanchoe tomentosa branches freely to make a prostrate clump. After a while, it can become straggly and should be clipped back to keep it in check and make it neat and tidy.
They need warm temperature and should be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F). Protect them from frost. These plants come from very warm areas and may develop rot if kept too cool.
Position: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants need light shade or shade in summer. Bright light will give the plant a woolliest appearance. However, it should not be subjected to the direct sun of midday.
Soil: Kalanchoe tomentosa needs a porous soil containing about one third grit with adequate drainage. Soil mix consisting of 2 parts sand to 1 part loam, with small gravel added to increase drainage
Irrigation: Kalanchoe tomentosa plants are drought tolerant, but came from damper climates than most succulents and like more water in the summer. Plants are watered and allow to dry thoroughly before watering again.
Fertilise: Fertilise only during the growing season (Spring and Summer) with a balanced cactus food or a liquid fertiliser diluted to half the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation: Leaf cuttings can be taken and planted in new soil during spring. Give the leaf cutting a week of drying out before re-potting, then they are expect to begin rooting within 4 weeks.
Propagation: It is propagated by stem cutting or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. The trimmings resulted from shaping the plant, make ideal cuttings. Allow cuttings to dry out before repotting. These cuttings root easily in 8cm pots (3 inch) filled with a mixture of peat moss and sand. Place the pots in a warm position in bright filtered light. Water the mixture whenever the top 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) dries out. The cuttings usually will produce roots in about 4 weeks. When roots have formed and new growth appears, move each young plant into a pot of standard mixture. Make sure that the pot is large enough to hold the roots. Thereafter, it should be possible to treat the plant as a mature Kalanchoe tomentosa.
Problems: Kalanchoe tomentosa, like most members of the Crassulaceae family, have succulent leaves which are a great attraction for pests such as mealy bugs. While this species is no more prone to attack than others, because of the silvery-white hairy leaves, it is easy to miss the first signs of these pests. Treatment: A regular, careful inspection is sensible. Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
If rot affects the plant, it normally starts at the root.
Treatment: If spotted early, cuttings can be made easily from the tips of the stems to make new plants.
Recommended varieties:
Kalanchoe tomentosa cv. Chocolate Soldier: Individual leaves are more red-brown all around the edges and thinner and longer than for the standard species. It also grows a bit faster with more of a clumping habit.
Toxicity: All parts of Kalanchoe tomentosa plant are poisonous if ingested.
Uses and display: Once the Kalanchoe tomentosa plants matures, they look fantastic placed within a hanging basket or sitting in a conservatory. A conservatory is ideal because they do like their bright light and some sun. Whilst they are still small and growing, then near windows and on shelves which receive enough sunlight are good spots for displaying them.
Grow this Kalanchoe tomentosa in a rock garden or on a rock wall in mild climates. In cold areas, this heat-loving plant is grown as indoor plant or it is planted outdoors as an annual.
Kalanchoe tomentosa is drought-tolerant, therefore it is suitable for xeriscaping.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – bushy
Height: 45cm (1.5 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in active growth period – sparingly
Light – direct
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月22日
Distribution and habitat: Faucaria tigrina is a subtropical succulent plant native of South Africa in eastern Cape Province thicket and savanna and the Karoo desert. It is found in open, rocky patches, in a dark clay soil with a low pH, in mountain renosterveld.
The Latin name for these succulent house plants is Faucaria meaning jaws and tigrina meaning tiger.
The ‘teeth’ of the Faucaria tigrina however, are actually soft and harmless, and help to trap moist fog and direct it down to the roots. Fog that comes in from the coast provides a precious source of water for plants surviving in the hot, arid thickets.
Description: Faucaria tigrina are low growing succulent plants with four or five layers of leaves arranged in criss-cross opposite pairs, forming a thick, star shaped rosette. Each pair of leaves is united at the base and these are virtually no stems. The leaves are fleshy and pointed, 2-5cm (0.8-2 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) broad at the base. The roughly triangular leaves, which are usually edged with soft and bristle-like hooked teeth, have a flat upper surface, but the underside is convex. Leaf colour is greyish green marked with many small white dots. The teeth on the edge of the young leaves interlock, but they later strengthen and separate to give a jaw like appearance.
The plants send out basal offsets that form crowded clumps.
Relatively large, daisy-like flowers, which generally open in the afternoon, are produced from between the leaves in autumn. They are attractive golden yellow, stalk-less and can be up to 5cm (2 inch) wide.
Proper care: The plants in this genus represent some of the more easily cultivated succulent species.
Light: Faucaria tigrina must have at least three hours a day of direct sunlight all year long in order to flower.
Temperature: Faucaria tigrina needs warmer temperatures from spring through fall 21-32°C (70-90°F). It needs average temperatures in winter, 16-24°C (60-75°F).
If the plant is moved outdoors for the summer, be sure to bring it back indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 16°C (60°F).
This succulent plant requires an average to dry humidity.
Water: Keep Faucaria tigrina soil lightly moist spring through fall. In winter, allow soil to dry out between waterings.
Feeding: During the active growth period only, apply standard liquid fertiliser at half-strength once or twice during growth period. Too frequent feeding will result in soft, uncharacteristic growth.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture composed of two parts of soil-based mixture to one part of coarse sand or grit. Because Faucaria tigrina have relatively little root, plant them in shallow pans or half-pots. When a clump has covered the surface of the potting mixture, move plants into a container one size larger. Repotting should be necessary, however, only one in two or three years. The best time to pot is early spring.
Gardening: In areas prone to frost, Faucaria tigrina should be overwintered in an intermediate greenhouse or conservatory, in pots of cactus compost. Although the plants will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low as -5°C (23°F) – they should be protected from frost to prevent scarring.
Faucarias become woody and untidy as they age. New plants can be started by cutting a rosette and planting it.
Position: Faucaria tigrina plants need full sun to light shade. Keep them shaded in summer, but provide maximum light the rest of the year. They do not do well in full shade as they tend to etiolate, fall over and rot easily.
Soil: Faucaria tigrina need to be located in an accentuated and drained substratum. The substrate should be gritty-sandy soil. They thrive on a little compost and some fine mulch spread between the plants would also be a good idea.
These succulent plants will grow in a well-drained soil mix, but can tolerate a wide variety of soil types and growing locations as long as there is plenty of sun.
Irrigation: Faucaria tigrina is native to a primarily summer rainfall area but in cultivation the plant can be watered year-round. The plants are well watered during the growing season and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again and will tolerate some over watering, but the challenge is to help them keep their compact form and prevent elongation of the stem.
Faucaria tigrina plants grow on winter rain and were heading for spring-summer dormancy. Requires little water otherwise their epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). Water moderately from the middle of summer to the end of winter and keep the compost almost dry when the plants are dormant. Water minimally in spring and summer, only when the plant starts shriveling (but they will generally grow even in summer if given water).
Fertiliser: Faucaria tigrina plants should be fertilised only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
Propagation: Carefully divide overcrowded clumps of Faucaria tigrina in late spring or early summer just after plants have restarted into growth. As individual plants are separated, some will come away with their roots attached. Insert each such rooted Faucaria tigrina directly into an 8cm or 10cm (3-4 inch) container of the recommended potting mixture and treat the new plant as a mature specimen. For the first week or two, however, keep the Faucaria tigrina in medium light, well out of direct sunlight.
An individual plant without roots attached should be left unpotted for a few days to let the base of the plant harden. It may then be inserted in the recommended potting mixture. Surround the base with some additional coarse sand. This will help to prevent rotting and encourage the development of roots. Keep the plant in medium light and water only moderately until new growth indicates that rooting has occurred. Thereafter, treat the young plant as a mature Faucaria tigrina.
Problems:
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases (phytophthora) indicated by sudden wilting and pale green discolouration.
Treatement: Remove infected plants and treat remaining plants preemptively with a systemic fungicide, before the gems grow excessively. Avoid fungus infections by improving drainage and over-fertilization.
Waxy fibres and honeydew on leaves and shoots indicate an infestation with mealybugs. Scale insects sit on the undersides of the leaves.
Treatment: At the end of the winter a wide range insecticide is recommended to be applied to prevent the insects attack. It is recommended to do these treatments when there are not flowerings in the garden. Alternatively, control biologically with predatory ladybirds or parasitic wasps can be used in garden.
Note: Continued urban development and over-grazing within its current natural habitat means Faucaria tigrina plant is classed as endangered in the wild.
Uses and display: Faucaria tigrina is used as a border or filler plant in rock gardens, xeriscaping or wild gardens. It will attract bees, butterflies and other insects into the garden. It is a suitable succulent plant for smaller gardens and can be used to stabilise banks and and reduce land erosion. Although it can be grown just as easily indoors as windowsill plant, being well suited to growing in containers and pots.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – low growing, clustering habit
Height: under 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
The Latin name for these succulent house plants is Faucaria meaning jaws and tigrina meaning tiger.
The ‘teeth’ of the Faucaria tigrina however, are actually soft and harmless, and help to trap moist fog and direct it down to the roots. Fog that comes in from the coast provides a precious source of water for plants surviving in the hot, arid thickets.
Description: Faucaria tigrina are low growing succulent plants with four or five layers of leaves arranged in criss-cross opposite pairs, forming a thick, star shaped rosette. Each pair of leaves is united at the base and these are virtually no stems. The leaves are fleshy and pointed, 2-5cm (0.8-2 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) broad at the base. The roughly triangular leaves, which are usually edged with soft and bristle-like hooked teeth, have a flat upper surface, but the underside is convex. Leaf colour is greyish green marked with many small white dots. The teeth on the edge of the young leaves interlock, but they later strengthen and separate to give a jaw like appearance.
The plants send out basal offsets that form crowded clumps.
Relatively large, daisy-like flowers, which generally open in the afternoon, are produced from between the leaves in autumn. They are attractive golden yellow, stalk-less and can be up to 5cm (2 inch) wide.
Proper care: The plants in this genus represent some of the more easily cultivated succulent species.
Light: Faucaria tigrina must have at least three hours a day of direct sunlight all year long in order to flower.
Temperature: Faucaria tigrina needs warmer temperatures from spring through fall 21-32°C (70-90°F). It needs average temperatures in winter, 16-24°C (60-75°F).
If the plant is moved outdoors for the summer, be sure to bring it back indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 16°C (60°F).
This succulent plant requires an average to dry humidity.
Water: Keep Faucaria tigrina soil lightly moist spring through fall. In winter, allow soil to dry out between waterings.
Feeding: During the active growth period only, apply standard liquid fertiliser at half-strength once or twice during growth period. Too frequent feeding will result in soft, uncharacteristic growth.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture composed of two parts of soil-based mixture to one part of coarse sand or grit. Because Faucaria tigrina have relatively little root, plant them in shallow pans or half-pots. When a clump has covered the surface of the potting mixture, move plants into a container one size larger. Repotting should be necessary, however, only one in two or three years. The best time to pot is early spring.
Gardening: In areas prone to frost, Faucaria tigrina should be overwintered in an intermediate greenhouse or conservatory, in pots of cactus compost. Although the plants will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low as -5°C (23°F) – they should be protected from frost to prevent scarring.
Faucarias become woody and untidy as they age. New plants can be started by cutting a rosette and planting it.
Position: Faucaria tigrina plants need full sun to light shade. Keep them shaded in summer, but provide maximum light the rest of the year. They do not do well in full shade as they tend to etiolate, fall over and rot easily.
Soil: Faucaria tigrina need to be located in an accentuated and drained substratum. The substrate should be gritty-sandy soil. They thrive on a little compost and some fine mulch spread between the plants would also be a good idea.
These succulent plants will grow in a well-drained soil mix, but can tolerate a wide variety of soil types and growing locations as long as there is plenty of sun.
Irrigation: Faucaria tigrina is native to a primarily summer rainfall area but in cultivation the plant can be watered year-round. The plants are well watered during the growing season and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again and will tolerate some over watering, but the challenge is to help them keep their compact form and prevent elongation of the stem.
Faucaria tigrina plants grow on winter rain and were heading for spring-summer dormancy. Requires little water otherwise their epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). Water moderately from the middle of summer to the end of winter and keep the compost almost dry when the plants are dormant. Water minimally in spring and summer, only when the plant starts shriveling (but they will generally grow even in summer if given water).
Fertiliser: Faucaria tigrina plants should be fertilised only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
Propagation: Carefully divide overcrowded clumps of Faucaria tigrina in late spring or early summer just after plants have restarted into growth. As individual plants are separated, some will come away with their roots attached. Insert each such rooted Faucaria tigrina directly into an 8cm or 10cm (3-4 inch) container of the recommended potting mixture and treat the new plant as a mature specimen. For the first week or two, however, keep the Faucaria tigrina in medium light, well out of direct sunlight.
An individual plant without roots attached should be left unpotted for a few days to let the base of the plant harden. It may then be inserted in the recommended potting mixture. Surround the base with some additional coarse sand. This will help to prevent rotting and encourage the development of roots. Keep the plant in medium light and water only moderately until new growth indicates that rooting has occurred. Thereafter, treat the young plant as a mature Faucaria tigrina.
Problems:
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases (phytophthora) indicated by sudden wilting and pale green discolouration.
Treatement: Remove infected plants and treat remaining plants preemptively with a systemic fungicide, before the gems grow excessively. Avoid fungus infections by improving drainage and over-fertilization.
Waxy fibres and honeydew on leaves and shoots indicate an infestation with mealybugs. Scale insects sit on the undersides of the leaves.
Treatment: At the end of the winter a wide range insecticide is recommended to be applied to prevent the insects attack. It is recommended to do these treatments when there are not flowerings in the garden. Alternatively, control biologically with predatory ladybirds or parasitic wasps can be used in garden.
Note: Continued urban development and over-grazing within its current natural habitat means Faucaria tigrina plant is classed as endangered in the wild.
Uses and display: Faucaria tigrina is used as a border or filler plant in rock gardens, xeriscaping or wild gardens. It will attract bees, butterflies and other insects into the garden. It is a suitable succulent plant for smaller gardens and can be used to stabilise banks and and reduce land erosion. Although it can be grown just as easily indoors as windowsill plant, being well suited to growing in containers and pots.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – low growing, clustering habit
Height: under 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月16日
Distribution and habitat: Bryophyllum daigremontianum is a succulent perennial plant native to the Fiherenana River valley and Androhibolava mountains in southwest Madagascar. It has been introduced to numerous tropical and subtropical regions, such as Florida, Puerto Rico, Hawaii, parts of the Canary Islands and Australia. Like other members of the genus Bryophyllum, it is able to propagate vegetatively from plantlets (epiphyllous buds) that develop on the leaf edges. The plantlets that grow on the edges of each leaf fall easily and root wherever they land.
It is commonly found growing on gravelly and sandy soils. This succulent plant is a weed of bushland and disturbed sites such as roadsides, along fence lines, around rubbish tips and abandoned rural dwellings. It also occurs frequently along creeks and rivers where it is spread by floodwaters.
Description: Bryophyllum daigremontianum grows from a single unbranched stem 45-90cm (18-35 inch) tall, which carries opposite pairs of fleshy, shiny, lance-shaped leaves that are 10-25cm (4-10 inch) long. The leaves grow at an 8° angle to the stem and are bluish green with purple blotched undersides. The saw-toothed leaf edges curl slightly inward. The tiny plantlets that form in the gaps between the teeth often have tiny aerial roots attached. One leaf can carry as many as 50 such plantlets in a single season. Pink flowers, which bloom only on mature plant, are roughly tubular, 2cm (0.8 inch) long and pendent. They are carried in rather flat clusters at the top of 30cm (12 inch) tall stalks in late autumn and early winter. The plant dies after blooming. Flowering is, however, not an annual event and will occur sporadically if at all. Particularly in climates with distinct seasonal temperature differences, flowering is most frequently observed at the beginning of a warm season.
Bryophyllum daigremontianum take a year or two to mature.
Houseplant care: Bryophyllum daigremontianum requires minimal care and can tolerate dry conditions and high temperatures. It is an unusu
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 90-120cm (36-48 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
It is commonly found growing on gravelly and sandy soils. This succulent plant is a weed of bushland and disturbed sites such as roadsides, along fence lines, around rubbish tips and abandoned rural dwellings. It also occurs frequently along creeks and rivers where it is spread by floodwaters.
Description: Bryophyllum daigremontianum grows from a single unbranched stem 45-90cm (18-35 inch) tall, which carries opposite pairs of fleshy, shiny, lance-shaped leaves that are 10-25cm (4-10 inch) long. The leaves grow at an 8° angle to the stem and are bluish green with purple blotched undersides. The saw-toothed leaf edges curl slightly inward. The tiny plantlets that form in the gaps between the teeth often have tiny aerial roots attached. One leaf can carry as many as 50 such plantlets in a single season. Pink flowers, which bloom only on mature plant, are roughly tubular, 2cm (0.8 inch) long and pendent. They are carried in rather flat clusters at the top of 30cm (12 inch) tall stalks in late autumn and early winter. The plant dies after blooming. Flowering is, however, not an annual event and will occur sporadically if at all. Particularly in climates with distinct seasonal temperature differences, flowering is most frequently observed at the beginning of a warm season.
Bryophyllum daigremontianum take a year or two to mature.
Houseplant care: Bryophyllum daigremontianum requires minimal care and can tolerate dry conditions and high temperatures. It is an unusu
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 90-120cm (36-48 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月14日
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique and beautiful plant type. It usually blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. After each flowering, the plant will wither and die. It is best to ensure sufficient light treatment every day during the growth period. It needs to be placed in the shade in summer, and control a certain temperature difference, which is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds.
1、 Black mage will blossom
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage
1. Shade and sunscreen
Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Temperature change
Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming.
3. Sufficient nutrients
Will the black mage blossom
The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
1、 Black mage will blossom
Black mage is a kind of succulent plant with unique plant type, but many friends don't know whether black mage can blossom. In fact, it blooms, but the phenomenon of flowering is relatively rare. Even some individual varieties don't blossom. After each flowering, the flowers are very small, the color is mainly yellow, and the plants usually die after flowering.
2、 The key points of maintenance to promote the blossom of black mage
1. Shade and sunscreen
Black mage likes to grow in a sunny environment, but in the strong light season in summer, it should be placed in the half shade, but it should not be placed too long, otherwise the branches and leaves will appear spots, and the color is dim. Long sunshine treatment should be given in spring and autumn and winter, and the daily illumination time should not be less than 7-8 hours, so as to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
2. Temperature change
Black mage likes to grow in a warm climate. The suitable temperature for its growth is about 18-26 ℃. If it is lower than 10 ℃ in winter, it will not grow well. In autumn, the temperature can be controlled at about 25 ℃ in the daytime and 12 ℃ in the evening. This temperature difference environment is conducive to the differentiation of flower buds. If the air temperature is too low, it needs to be treated with light warming.
3. Sufficient nutrients
Will the black mage blossom
The black mage will grow faster under the condition of sufficient nutrients. When he goes to the pot, he can add an appropriate amount of plant ash or bone powder as long-term fertilizer. During the growth period, he can apply fertilizer according to the growth trend. He can apply a thin compound fertilizer solution every month to provide the nutrients needed for flowering.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年04月26日
People often say that Succulent is a plant suitable for lazy people, of course! This laziness is not for you to buy it home and leave it aside to enjoy the benefits, but not to be too diligent, especially for some succulents who have just been in the pot and are still in the serving period. The novice must maintain a steady state of mind and not be too impatient. Do small actions that shouldn't be done.
After repairing the roots, I was eager to get into the pot: Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands and put them into the pot in a hurry.
Correct way: After receiving the succulent, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and let it dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least one day.
After potting, I can’t help but water: After potting, the fleshy leaves at the bottom of the pot will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system can’t absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot. .
Correct way: When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in wet soil. The humidity should be able to form clumps when holding the soil and disperse after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week. Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After potting, there is no bottom line to control water: After potting, the fleshy leaves are getting greener and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water control and force the fleshy flesh that has not been taken. Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun: After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today and put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around resulted in Succulents being slow to finish the pots, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
The correct method: After the pot is placed, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism. After a week, gradually increase the light. Don't over toss, let it take root and grow quietly.
After potting, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil: After potting, I always want to shake the pot and dig the soil to see if Susu is in the pot. The result is that it delays the growth of the root system, and it does not even pass the delay period. It's dead!
Correct way: After putting on the pot, keep it with light, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves: During the slow potting period, the leaves under the plant will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull them off when they see it. This causes the succulent lower leaves to continue to shrink and consume nutrients. The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents. Don't owe it.
After repairing the roots, I was eager to get into the pot: Most of the succulents purchased online are shipped bare-rooted. After receiving the goods, many meat lovers grab the dry hairy roots with their hands and put them into the pot in a hurry.
Correct way: After receiving the succulent, check the root system for insect eggs, trim off the shriveled fibrous roots, apply some carbendazim powder, and let it dry in a cool and ventilated place for at least one day.
After potting, I can’t help but water: After potting, the fleshy leaves at the bottom of the pot will slightly wilt. Many meat lovers rush to water, but the root system can’t absorb it, causing the fleshy seedlings to rot. .
Correct way: When we pot the succulents, it is best to plant them in wet soil. The humidity should be able to form clumps when holding the soil and disperse after touching it. Do not water within a week after potting, and water thoroughly after a week. Succulents are not better than grass and flowers, and watering can not be too often. It should be adjusted according to the state of succulents and the environment. For example, watering less on rainy days, dry soil is always safer than damp.
After potting, there is no bottom line to control water: After potting, the fleshy leaves are getting greener and there is no state at all. Some meat lovers ignore the water control and force the fleshy flesh that has not been taken. Regarding the succulents on the bare roots, we first consider feeding, and secondly, how to raise them well. We must not pursue beauty too much, and lose big because of smallness.
After potting, move around to bask in the sun: After potting, some meat lovers put Succulents in the living room today and put them on the balcony tomorrow. Moving around resulted in Succulents being slow to finish the pots, and they have been in a state of adapting to the new environment.
The correct method: After the pot is placed, place the succulents in a ventilated place with astigmatism. After a week, gradually increase the light. Don't over toss, let it take root and grow quietly.
After potting, I always like to shake the pot and dig the soil: After potting, I always want to shake the pot and dig the soil to see if Susu is in the pot. The result is that it delays the growth of the root system, and it does not even pass the delay period. It's dead!
Correct way: After putting on the pot, keep it with light, give water a week later, always pay attention to ventilation, observe more and less hands, for example, if the leaves are hard or the seedlings grow up, it means that the pots are served!
After potting, the old love pulls the dead leaves: During the slow potting period, the leaves under the plant will shrink and dry, and many meat lovers will pull them off when they see it. This causes the succulent lower leaves to continue to shrink and consume nutrients. The leaves are shriveled, which is the normal nutrient consumption during the potting period of the succulents. As long as the leaves are not lost and are not completely shriveled, they can continue to provide nutrients for the succulents. Don't owe it.
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