文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月05日
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a great addition to any herb garden. Not only is it a relatively easy plant to grow, but it actually boasts two cooking uses for the price of one. The name cilantro refers to the plant's thin, green stems and flat, lacy leaves, which are best eaten fresh. Its other common name, coriander, refers to the seeds, which are used as a common cooking spice, especially in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines. Cilantro is best planted in the early spring but also can be started in fall. It grows quickly, often yielding its first harvest of leaves within 30 days. Its seeds will be ready for harvest closer to three months from planting.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月01日
Gardeners deemed Rehmannia elata to be 'Chinese foxglove' because the tubular flowers bear a resemblance to digitalis, the foxglove plant. The two plants, however, are actually unrelated. With fast-growing, small Chinese foxglove, spikes of dangling, bell-shaped, rose-pink blossoms poke up from scalloped, glossy green leaves. Unlike traditional foxglove, however, Chinese foxglove petals of the bell-lip flare open and outward.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
Spring-planted seeds may not bloom the first year, but to get around this frustration, you can plant the seeds in the fall for gorgeous flowers the following summer. Although Chinese foxglove is not as hardy as its lookalike, digitalis, it is more versatile, growing well in shade and is even fairly drought-tolerant.
Botanical Name Rehmannia elata
Common Name Chinese foxglove
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-3 ft. wide, 1.5-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining, rich soil
Soil pH 6.5-7
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Pink, purple
Hardiness Zones 7-10
Native Area China
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Chinese Foxglove Care
The prolific blooms are long-lasting and will repeat bloom for three to four months, unlike traditional foxglove. The plants might flop over as the older blooms make way for younger blossoms, so you can stake them to keep them upright if desired.
Chinese foxgloves help to light up shade gardens and that is where they grow happiest. They begin blooming as spring woodland flowers fade. They provide a nice accent to hosta, and the glossy leaves and nodding blossoms contrast well with astilbe. Because the plants can be fairly wide, give them some space when planting in a garden. Chinese foxglove can become invasive in certain areas, particularly when grown in moist, rich soil. If your plant starts to become aggressive, cut back on either food or water, to stress the plants and slow their growth.
Light
You can grow Chinese foxglove in full sun to partial shade. Although the plant prefers sun, they will still flower quite well in shade and can even handle dry shade. In full sun, they will need extra water during hot spells.
Soil
Chinese foxglove are not particular about soil pH, although they do best in a neutral pH of about 6.5-7.0. However, they do need well-draining soil: The roots will rot in soil that remains wet for extended periods. Poor-draining soil can also cause problems during the colder, winter months.
Water
For best results, water daily by using a soaker hose or drip irrigation, especially during the first year. Once established, Chinese foxglove has good drought-tolerance, but mostly in the shade. The plant can tolerate being watered just once a week, but the flowers won't be as prolific as if it is watered every day.
Temperature and Humidity
Chinese foxgloves are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, though they grow as a perennial in zones 8-10. In zone 7, it's unpredictable and is more likely to grow as an annual.
Fertilizer
A side dressing with compost or monthly feedings will also help promote flowering. Feed the plant with liquid fertilizer during the summer months to keep the blooms growing.
Pruning
Chinese foxglove are fairly low-maintenance. Plants should be deadheaded for continual bloom.
Propagating Chinese Foxgloves
You can divide your plants in the spring, but because they spread so readily, you probably won't need to. You'll have plenty of plants and if some die out, new ones fill in.
How to Grow Chinese Foxgloves From Seed
Start Chinese foxglove seeds indoors for best results. Although they can be sown outdoors once the risk of frost has passed, the plant's small seeds can be easily overwhelmed. Sow the seeds in good potting soil in small pots, seed trays, or plug trays. Expect germination within 15-30 days, depending on temperature, and then transplant out when the plants are at least 6-inches high. You can expect the plant to bloom about 70 days after germination if conditions are right.
Overwintering
In areas colder than zone 7, you can try starting over-wintering plants indoors or grow your Chinese foxgloves in containers and move the containers to a sheltered and protected spot for winter. Make sure the containers get periodic water and allow them to drain. Lifting the container off the ground with a couple of bricks will ensure the drainage holes are not blocked by frozen ground.
In warmer climates where there will still be infrequent freezing temperatures, Chinese foxglove should be given some protection, like a thick layer of mulch, during cold winters.
Common Pests and Diseases
Although Chinese foxgloves are generally pest free, slugs and snails may munch on its leaves. Both can be treated by leaving small containers of beer around your garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月26日
Chinese evergreen is an attractive decorative plant native to Asia with several interesting varietals. They all have large, narrow, and glossy oval leaves on short stems, and flowers (on older plants) that bloom in spring or summer. The Chinese evergreen is one of the most popular houseplants and its color variations—from dark green and silver to red—add personality to your home's decor. Chinese evergreens are slow-growing and make excellent indoor foliage plants that can be potted and cared for year-round. Take care if you have pets because the plant is toxic to dogs and cats.1
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
Common Name Chinese evergreen, Philippine evergreen
Botanical Name Aglaonema commutatum
Family Araceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial shade, full shade
Soil Type Peaty, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Toxicity Toxic to dogs and cats
Chinese Evergreen Care
If you're looking for a beautiful, easy-to-care-for houseplant, a Chinese evergreen may be the way to go. Beloved for its (nearly) hands-free care, the plant is simple to nurture, provided you follow one simple rule: The lighter the variegation on the plant's leaves, the more sunlight it will need. Once you understand how that applies to your specific Chinese evergreen, you should have no problem helping it thrive. Beyond that, keep your plant warm and moist, and you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not outgrow its pot anytime soon.
Light
Darker green varieties of Chinese evergreens can grow in near-shade, while the variegated varieties require a bit more bright light. Take care not to expose any of the plants (no matter the variety) to direct sunlight, as the harsh rays can easily burn the delicate leaves.
Soil
Ultimately, the Chinese evergreen isn't particularly picky when it comes to the soil it's planted in. Typically, a well-drained, slightly acidic potting soil is perfect for the plant. If you find that your chosen soil is retaining too much water, try mixing in sand or perlite to aid in drainage. You should also make sure to plant your Chinese evergreen in a pot with ample drainage holes at its base.
Water
The Chinese evergreen plant thrives in moist but not water-logged soil. To achieve this balance, water your plant thoroughly, then allow it to dry out before watering again. You can maintain this cadence through the spring, summer, and fall, tapering off in the winter (but never letting the plant dry out completely).
Temperature and Humidity
These plants do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Be sure to keep your Chinese evergreen away from windows or vents that blast in cool temperatures—the warmer the spot you can find, the better.
Due to its high humidity requirements, some growers consider Chinese evergreen to be a greenhouse plant. It will do best in the warm, humid, and bright environment of a greenhouse, but it can be successfully grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. To increase the humidity levels around your plant, mist it frequently, and consider placing it in a humidity-prone area of your home, like your kitchen or bathroom. If your home is particularly dry, you can invest in a small space humidifier to put near your plant.
Fertilizer
For best results, feed your Chinese evergreen with slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer twice a year, at the beginning and end of its growing season.
Propagating Chinese Evergreen
Chinese evergreens can be propagated using stem cuttings or by dividing the plants during repotting. Wait until the middle of the summer when the weather is warmest to propagate Chinese evergreen.
To propagate with stem cuttings:
Use a disinfected, sharp cutting tool to take a stem from the mother plant that's several inches long.
Dip the bottom end in root hormone and put the cutting in a glass of water placed in indirect sunlight. Roots should form in three to four weeks.
Carefully and gently transfer your cutting to a pot filled with well-draining potting soil and keep moist.
To propagate by division:
Lay the pot carefully on its side. Use a trowel to loosen the soil on the sides of the container. Gently take the plant and soil out of the pot.
Lightly shake the dirt from the roots. Carefully tease apart the roots (this plant likes to be a bit root bound so move slowly) to separate a clump for repotting.
Repot the clump in a pot filled with well-draining potting soil.
Keep both the original plant and the divided plant a bit extra moist for a few weeks until they are both established and less stressed.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
While not terribly susceptible to pests or diseases, the Chinese evergreen can occasionally pick up a common houseplant issue like scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. These can be treated with an insecticide or neem oil.
Most other issues arise because the plant is kept too moist, and fungal problems (and root rot) are typical of an over-watered Chinese evergreen.
Common Problems With Chinese Evergreen
There's really one problem that you may find with the otherwise hardy and easy-going Chinese evergreen houseplant: curling or wavy leaves. Once the problem is solved, the plant should recover. Besides the common pests already mentioned, here are a few reasons why your plant's leaves may do this:
Age: This is a normal occurrence in an older plant. Just remove the affected leaf.
Too much light: Direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch. Remove burned leaves and move the plant to a bright area that is not in direct sunlight.
Temperature changes: The plant prefers warm, draft-free spots.
Low humidity: You may need to increase the humidity in the air around your plant with misting.
Underwatering: Overly dry soil will affect the leaves. Slowly water the plant so the leaves can recover. Remove dry, crisp leaves.
Overwatering: These plants prefer drier to overly moist soil. Let the top inch of soil dry out before watering to prevent root rot. If the pot is larger (around 10 to 12 inches in diameter), let more of the soil dry out—about halfway down.
FAQ
Is Chinese evergreen easy to care for?
They are very easy houseplants to grow. Best of all, they don't like full sun, so they're perfect for almost any room in your home, especially if window light is a commodity.
How fast does Chinese evergreen grow?
Chinese evergreen is a slow-growing plant, which means you rarely have to worry about repotting.
What is the difference between Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia?
Chinese evergreen and dieffenbachia are often confused because their leaves look alike though there are subtle differences. Chinese evergreens will have more of a silvery look to their variegated leaves. But the dieffenbachia's leaves may be much larger and wider than a Chinese evergreen's smaller and more oval leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月24日
If you are looking for a plant that boasts dramatic, vibrant flowers, you may want to consider tropical hibiscus. The trumpet-shaped blooms are typically 3 to 8 inches in diameter with dramatic protruding stamens.
Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers.
Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Sun Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates
Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Tropical Hibiscus Care
No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics.
Light
While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight.
Soil
If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot.
Water
Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast.
Fertilizer
When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously.
Types of Tropical Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high.
Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike.
Pruning
The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season.
Propagating Tropical Hibiscus
Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings:
Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem.
Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone.
Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite.
Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting.
Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container.
Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus
You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant.
For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant.
Overwintering
If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry).
If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water.
Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2
Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus
There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for.
Dropping Leaves
If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted.
It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
It's being underwatered.
Yellowing Leaves
If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water.
FAQ
Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for?
Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water.
Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day?
It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days.
How long will tropical hibiscus live?
Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
Native to Asia, tropical hibiscus plants produce flowers constantly, but each blossom only lasts one day. The shrub is fast-growing and can add up to 24 inches per year, eventually reaching heights of up 15 feet when growing under the ideal conditions. In colder climates, they are often planted as container specimens that are either replanted annually or brought indoors during the cold months. Start new plants in spring, whether in the ground or containers.
Common Name Tropical hibiscus, Chinese hibiscus, China rose
Botanical Name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis
Family Malvaceae
Plant Type Evergreen shrub
Mature Size 4–10 ft. tall, 5–8 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Sun Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Summer to fall in containers; year-round outdoors in tropical climates
Flower Color White, red, pink, orange, yellow, peach, and purple
Hardiness Zones 9–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia
Tropical Hibiscus Care
No matter where you live, there's a way for to you enjoy a hibiscus plant, at least for part of the year. In warmer climates, tropical hibiscus plants are grown as perennial garden plants and used as shrubs for hedges and screens. Meanwhile, in colder climates, they're often planted in large containers as patio or deck specimens. With dozens of colors of flowers to choose from, the plants will reward your garden and home with days and days of vibrant blooms reminiscent of a vacation in the tropics.
Light
While you may assume that a tropical plant like the hibiscus loves the sun, it's more nuanced than that. In northern climates, your hibiscus plants will probably be happiest in full sun. However, if you live somewhere that's more hot and dry, you're better off putting your plant in a location that gets partial shade.
If your outdoor plant is consistently producing hibiscus flowers, it is happy, so keep doing what you're doing. If your plant is not producing buds and flowers, try moving it into an area that has more sunlight.
Soil
If you're growing your hibiscus plant in a container, use a well-drained potting mix as the soil, preferably one formulated for tropical plants. Outdoors, your soil should have lots of organic matter. The soil in both grow locations should be well-draining, to help avoid the risk of root rot.
Water
Tropical hibiscus is a thirsty plant and will thrive and produce blossoms only if it is given enough water. Depending on the heat, wind, and humidity in your environment, your plant may need to be watered daily, or even twice a day in extremely dry conditions. Typically, tropical hibiscus plants thrive best with 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Temperature and Humidity
The tropical hibiscus plant prefers average temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The plant can be killed by even a few nights below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, so plan to move it inside if cold weather is in the forecast.
Fertilizer
When you buy a potted hibiscus, it likely has a slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil, so it will not require additional feeding in the first few months. After that, regular feeding with a diluted fish emulsion fertilizer will keep it blooming vigorously.
Types of Tropical Hibiscus
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Bonjour': This varietal constantly blooms with a mixture of red and pink flowers. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high.
Hibiscus sinensis 'Magic Moment': This plant varietal boasts 10-inch flowers in hues of peach, orange, pink, and light purple, on plants growing up to 8 feet tall.
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Cajun Cocktail': This unique varietal has lovely variegated blooms that are around 6 inches wide, with no two blooms exactly alike.
Pruning
The best time for pruning tropical hibiscus is in the fall for both garden and container plants. Pruning will help keep your tropical hibiscus flowering as buds form on the new growth that has been stimulated by pruning, and removing some branches can let in some much-needed light. Give any hibiscus plants that are potted in containers a hard pruning before bringing them indoors for the winter season.
Propagating Tropical Hibiscus
Propagating tropical hibiscus using cuttings can give you the exact same plant as the parent. Propagate your tropical hibiscus from soft-stem cuttings taken in late spring or early summer after the plant has begun active growth for the season. Here's how to propagate this plant using cuttings:
Choose a stem with a greenish cast that's 4 to 6 inches long. Use a sterile, sharp cutting tool to cut the stem. Remove all but the top set of leaves from the stem.
Trim the bottom of the stem just below the bottom leaf node and dip the end in a rooting hormone.
Put the cutting in a pot of well-draining soil that's half potting soil and half perlite.
Moisten the soil and push a hole into the dirt in which you place the cutting.
Put a clear plastic bag over the plant, but make sure it does not touch the leaves. Bagging the cutting preserves moisture and retains heat while it establishes roots.
Keep the cuttings out of direct sunlight and in partial shade until they are actively growing, at which time you can repot them in a larger container.
Potting and Repotting Tropical Hibiscus
You will likely need to repot your plant every one to two years. Regular repotting helps ensure that the soil provides sufficient nutrition for the plant.
For consistent flower production in container plantings, avoid very deep containers, which can cause the plant to spend its energy on root development at the expense of producing flowers. The ideal pot shape is quite wide but relatively shallow. The best pot will be an unglazed clay material and have several draining holes (not just one). Unglazed clay pots are porous and let water and air easily flow through the plant.
Overwintering
If you live in a northern climate, it is possible to overwinter hibiscus indoors, as long as you can provide two to three hours of direct sunlight daily. Your plant will also need less water in the winter, but dry indoor heat can be hard on tropical plants, so you will need frequent shallow waterings, as well as daily misting (if the air is dry).
If you see any buds form on the plant, remove them—you don't want your hibiscus to waste any energy by flowering in the winter. In the spring, cut the plant back and put it outside once the nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Tropical hibiscus is generally free of pests and diseases, but you may encounter spider mites and aphids, especially if you bring the plant indoors.1 You should also try to remove all insects currently residing on the plant using neem oil, a liquid detergent, or by spraying the plant forcefully with water.
Hibiscus plants can also develop bacterial diseases due to transmission from insects, rain, and fog—symptoms of such can include leaf wilt, dwarfing, stem rot, and distortion of leaves.2
Common Problems With Tropical Hibiscus
There will be telltale signs that your tropical hibiscus plant may not be very happy. Here are a two common issues to watch for.
Dropping Leaves
If your plant has dropping leaves, appears stressed, or hasn't been growing well, there are three main reasons:
Your plant needs to be repotted.
It's overheated from living in prolonged heat that's over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
It's being underwatered.
Yellowing Leaves
If you're seeing yellowing leaves at the top of the plant, chances are it's not getting enough water. Likewise, if your hibiscus has yellowing leaves in the middle or toward the bottom of the plant, it's probably drowning in too much water.
FAQ
Are tropical hibiscus plants easy to care for?
Tropical hibiscus plants are relatively easy to care for as long as they get enough light and water.
Why do tropical hibiscus blooms only last a day?
It takes a lot of energy for a plant to create a beautiful hibiscus bloom. However, once the bloom fades, a new one immediately takes its place. Cooler weather may yield slightly longer blooms and newer hybrids have blooms that can last three days.
How long will tropical hibiscus live?
Many traditional varieties of tropical hibiscus can live for over 50 years, but newer hybrids have a lifespan of up to 10 years.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月18日
You might mistake nolana for a morning glory at first glance, but this flowering plant is actually a separate species, sometimes referred to as the Chilean bellflower. With blue or violet blooms and a tendency to creep, this plant makes a great groundcover plant or a flowering spiller in a container. It’s an annual in cool-weather climates and a perennial in warmer areas (hardiness zones 10 and 11).
It’s interesting to note that this plant is actually a member of the nightshade family. You might know nightshades by their edible types, like tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. This type of nightshade, however, gains its fame for its beautiful blooms all summer long.
Botanical Name Nolana
Common Name Chilean bellflower
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full to part sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue, blue-violet, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area Chile and Peru
How to Grow Nolana
Growing nolana is not complicated but does require understanding what these plants need to thrive--which isn't much! First, ensure that you have a location with plenty of sunlight—8 hours of direct sun is preferable. Second, make sure that the soil drains well. Third, don't worry about watering unless conditions become extremely hot and dry for an extended period of time.
If you understand these basic growing requirements, along with the more detailed information on growing conditions, you'll have a happy, healthy plant to reward you with beautiful blue blooms all summer long.
Light
Nolana is a sun-loving plant and thrives when planted in full sun. This plant requires 8 hours of sunlight a day for best blooming. It might survive, but won't thrive, if planted in partial shade.
Soil
While nolana is tolerant of a variety of soil types (including sandy or rocky conditions), one condition it cannot tolerate is too much water. Be sure that you plant it in very well-drained soil, otherwise it might be subject to rot.
Drought tolerance makes nolana a great option for raised garden beds, container gardens, and rock walls, if sufficient drainage is in place. Use a layer of gravel to enhance drainage and ensure that its roots don’t become waterlogged.
Water
Nolana plants are moisture management masters and they don’t require much in the way of regular watering. The foliage of these plants excretes salt and features hairy filaments on the underside of the leaves, which serves to attract moisture.
Do not water nolana on a regular basis unless there is a period of intense heat with little or no rainfall. If you notice that the blooms begin to wilt, you can lightly water the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Native to Chile and Peru, nolana does best in hot, dry climates. The plant is well-suited to making the most of very little water and dry soil is preferred to overly damp conditions.
In an ideal climate (typically hardiness zones 10 and 11), this plant is a hardy perennial. However, it also grows well across a variety of climates as a lovely annual. If you’re willing to replant nolana each year, you can grow this plant in hardiness zones 2 through 9 as well.
Fertilizer
There’s no real need to fertilize nolana. This plant does a lot with a little, is happiest to grow in well-drained soil, and isn’t particular about nutrient levels. If it's receiving sufficient sun, you can expect to enjoy beautiful blooms all summer long without any fertilizer.
Propagating Nolana
Nolana is notoriously difficult to propagate by cuttings or division; it is generally best grown from seed.
Varieties of Nolana
Nolana paradoxa: The most popular variety of nolana, this plant features blue, trumpet-shaped blooms and grows best in hot weather.
Nolana humifusa ‘Little Bells’: Like other types of nolanas, this plant is known for its trailing nature. What makes it stand out, however, is its light blue blooms with distinctive purple veining in the flower throat.
Growing in Containers
The cascading nature of nolana plants makes this plant a good option in a container garden These plants will share space with other varieties while adding greenery and blooms that spill over the edge of the container, hanging planter, or rock wall. Because nolana requires very little water, be sure to plant it in combination with plants that have the same water and sunlight requirements
There is not much you need to do differently to grow nolana in containers—other than ensure that there is plenty of drainage. As mentioned earlier, these plants can easily suffer from rot if they’re in damp, soggy conditions. Use a layer of pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the container, or add compost to the soil mixture to improve drainage.
Starting From Seeds
If you want to grow nolana in your garden, you’ll likely be starting from seeds because nolana transplants are not often available at nurseries. Fortunately, nolana is not overly difficult to start from seed.
To start nolana plants from seed, sow seeds in the spring—about 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost. Place the seeds in starter trays and cover them with a thin layer of soil or sand. Keep the medium moist until germination occurs.
When the plants have achieved a few inches of growth, thin seedlings 4 to 8 inches apart to give the root systems room to grow. Provide as much light as possible to avoid the seedlings becoming leggy. After the last frost, transplant to your desired outdoor location.
Landscape Uses
The easy-growing nature of nolana makes it a good choice for a variety of landscaping uses. It especially shines as a flowering plant for use in water-wise landscapes, called xeriscaping. Because nolana doesn’t require much attention or water, it's a great addition to a low-maintenance garden.
Because it has a creeping nature and grows where other plants won’t, nolana is also a popular choice as a groundcover. Even if your landscape environment has rocky or sandy soil, nolana does exceptionally well.
It’s interesting to note that this plant is actually a member of the nightshade family. You might know nightshades by their edible types, like tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. This type of nightshade, however, gains its fame for its beautiful blooms all summer long.
Botanical Name Nolana
Common Name Chilean bellflower
Plant Type Annual or perennial
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full to part sun
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Blue, blue-violet, pink
Hardiness Zones 10, 11
Native Area Chile and Peru
How to Grow Nolana
Growing nolana is not complicated but does require understanding what these plants need to thrive--which isn't much! First, ensure that you have a location with plenty of sunlight—8 hours of direct sun is preferable. Second, make sure that the soil drains well. Third, don't worry about watering unless conditions become extremely hot and dry for an extended period of time.
If you understand these basic growing requirements, along with the more detailed information on growing conditions, you'll have a happy, healthy plant to reward you with beautiful blue blooms all summer long.
Light
Nolana is a sun-loving plant and thrives when planted in full sun. This plant requires 8 hours of sunlight a day for best blooming. It might survive, but won't thrive, if planted in partial shade.
Soil
While nolana is tolerant of a variety of soil types (including sandy or rocky conditions), one condition it cannot tolerate is too much water. Be sure that you plant it in very well-drained soil, otherwise it might be subject to rot.
Drought tolerance makes nolana a great option for raised garden beds, container gardens, and rock walls, if sufficient drainage is in place. Use a layer of gravel to enhance drainage and ensure that its roots don’t become waterlogged.
Water
Nolana plants are moisture management masters and they don’t require much in the way of regular watering. The foliage of these plants excretes salt and features hairy filaments on the underside of the leaves, which serves to attract moisture.
Do not water nolana on a regular basis unless there is a period of intense heat with little or no rainfall. If you notice that the blooms begin to wilt, you can lightly water the plant.
Temperature and Humidity
Native to Chile and Peru, nolana does best in hot, dry climates. The plant is well-suited to making the most of very little water and dry soil is preferred to overly damp conditions.
In an ideal climate (typically hardiness zones 10 and 11), this plant is a hardy perennial. However, it also grows well across a variety of climates as a lovely annual. If you’re willing to replant nolana each year, you can grow this plant in hardiness zones 2 through 9 as well.
Fertilizer
There’s no real need to fertilize nolana. This plant does a lot with a little, is happiest to grow in well-drained soil, and isn’t particular about nutrient levels. If it's receiving sufficient sun, you can expect to enjoy beautiful blooms all summer long without any fertilizer.
Propagating Nolana
Nolana is notoriously difficult to propagate by cuttings or division; it is generally best grown from seed.
Varieties of Nolana
Nolana paradoxa: The most popular variety of nolana, this plant features blue, trumpet-shaped blooms and grows best in hot weather.
Nolana humifusa ‘Little Bells’: Like other types of nolanas, this plant is known for its trailing nature. What makes it stand out, however, is its light blue blooms with distinctive purple veining in the flower throat.
Growing in Containers
The cascading nature of nolana plants makes this plant a good option in a container garden These plants will share space with other varieties while adding greenery and blooms that spill over the edge of the container, hanging planter, or rock wall. Because nolana requires very little water, be sure to plant it in combination with plants that have the same water and sunlight requirements
There is not much you need to do differently to grow nolana in containers—other than ensure that there is plenty of drainage. As mentioned earlier, these plants can easily suffer from rot if they’re in damp, soggy conditions. Use a layer of pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the container, or add compost to the soil mixture to improve drainage.
Starting From Seeds
If you want to grow nolana in your garden, you’ll likely be starting from seeds because nolana transplants are not often available at nurseries. Fortunately, nolana is not overly difficult to start from seed.
To start nolana plants from seed, sow seeds in the spring—about 4 to 6 weeks before the last expected frost. Place the seeds in starter trays and cover them with a thin layer of soil or sand. Keep the medium moist until germination occurs.
When the plants have achieved a few inches of growth, thin seedlings 4 to 8 inches apart to give the root systems room to grow. Provide as much light as possible to avoid the seedlings becoming leggy. After the last frost, transplant to your desired outdoor location.
Landscape Uses
The easy-growing nature of nolana makes it a good choice for a variety of landscaping uses. It especially shines as a flowering plant for use in water-wise landscapes, called xeriscaping. Because nolana doesn’t require much attention or water, it's a great addition to a low-maintenance garden.
Because it has a creeping nature and grows where other plants won’t, nolana is also a popular choice as a groundcover. Even if your landscape environment has rocky or sandy soil, nolana does exceptionally well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月16日
Iresine herbstii is a relatively uncommon plant, but one that's gorgeous in any garden or as a houseplant. In all, there are about 30 species of Iresine plants in the genus, all of them native to South America, especially Brazil. They range from small to medium-sized shrubs, and most are perennial. The flowers on these plants are unremarkable, consisting of small greenish or white flowers on small stems, but instead, they are commonly grown for their striking foliage.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
Aside from their interesting foliage, these plants are notable for the range of their common names. Besides blood leaf, they are known as the chicken gizzard plant, the beefsteak plant, and other descriptive names. They are more common in the Southern Hemisphere, which makes them novelties in the northern hemisphere.
Botanical Name Iresine herbstii
Common Name Bloodleaf, chicken gizzard, beefsteak plant
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 inches tall when potted
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Loamy, soil-based potting mixture
Soil pH 5.6 to 5.9
Bloom Time Flowers not showy
Flower Color Green-white
Hardiness Zones 10 to 12
Native Area Brazil
Iresine Care
Although Iresine can be planted both outside and indoors, it gets quite finicky outdoors. It's hardy to USDA Zones 10 to 12, and it needs a lot of heat and humidity. If you live in an area that's prone to cooler temperatures, either grow Iresine as a houseplant or keep it in a container and move it indoors when the temperature drops.
In its native habitat or when grown outdoors in the right conditions, the plant can grow to be 5 feet tall with a 3-foot spread. However, indoors, it's more likely to stay between 12 and 18 inches tall, with red leaves that are up to 4 inches long.
Light
Smaller plants tend to thrive in partial shade, but as they grow they can tolerate more light. They are margin plants by nature, meaning they grow on the edge of forests and can withstand varied light levels. They can tolerate less light in the winter months, so don't place them too close to a window. If the plant is getting leggy, however, it's probably not getting enough light.
Soil
When growing the plant outdoors, Iresine prefers organically rich, well-draining soil. For indoor growth, though, use a loamy, soil-based potting mixture.
Water
Regular moisture is essential, especially during the growing season. They aren't water plants, so don't waterlog them, but plants without adequate moisture will begin to develop brown leaf margins and dropping leaves. During the winter months, you can cut back on waterings, but aim to keep the soil moist.
Temperature and Humidity
These are "warm house" plants and cannot tolerate lower temperatures or cold, dry air. The plant requires a temperature of at least 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Indoors, they are best grown in window boxes or bathrooms, which often have warmth and humidity. If you have a glasshouse, they will thrive there.
Due to their low tolerance for cold, dry air, they will need to be frequently misted and provided with adequate heat during the winter.
Fertilizer
Feed with a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks throughout the growing season.
Potting and Repotting
Iresine should be repotted annually until it reaches its mature size, then it can be repotted every other year or propagated to create new stock and discarded. In the tropical landscape, it is often used as bedding plants, so it's a nice effect to grow a small clump of them in a container or to grow them in a mixed container with other tropical plants.
Propagating Iresine
They can also be easily propagated from fleshy stem-tip cuttings. For best success, take cuttings early in the season, use a rooting hormone, and provide bottom warmth and very high humidity. Seal the pot inside a plastic bag to keep the moisture in, and remove it when the plant shows signs of new growth.
Varieties of Iresine
There are dozens of species of Iresine herbstii, but only a few are grown for ornamental purposes.
Iresine herbstii 'Brilliantissima': Bright red leaves with pink veins
Iresine herbstii 'Aueoreticulata': Green leaves with yellow veins
Iresine herbstii 'Blazin Rose': Deep red-purple leaves with pinkish-red veins
Iresine herbstii 'Acuminata': Dark maroon leaves with pinkish-red veins
Pruning
Iresine plants will put out small, pale green-white flowers, but they're not showy. Therefore, most gardeners choose to pinch off the buds, so that the plant can divert its energy into growing its beautiful foliage.
Common Pests and Diseases
Iresine doesn't have any significant pest or disease problems, but it is vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and whitefly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the least toxic option.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月09日
A larger-than-life succulent, the century plant is a visually stunning agave species. It can grow up to ten feet wide and six feet tall with fleshy, arching leaves in grey-green or variegated colors. To protect itself, the leaves are tipped with sharp spines that ward off intruding pets or people. The sap of the plant is considered mildly toxic1.
Also known as the American aloe, the plant’s name is a misnomer. It was once believed that it took 100 years for this plant to bloom, but we now know that it blooms after two or three decades of storing up energy to send up a single stalk, topped with an inflorescence of small yellow blossoms. A monocarpic species, the flower display is the plant’s final act before dying.
Common Name Century plant, American aloe, maguey
Botanical Name Agave americana
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Three to six feet tall, six to ten feet wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 8-11, USDA
Native Area Texas and Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Century Plant Care
Hands-off care and patience are required for growing a century plant. These large agaves must have well-draining soil and will benefit from intermittent watering, depending on climate conditions. As you wait a decade (and likely more) for the flower stalk to emerge, you can expect these plants to produce plenty of offshoots, which can be left to grow as part of a large colony or transplanted to new locations. Be vigilant towards the appearance of agave snout weevils, which can damage a plant beyond recovery.
Light
Like other agave species, century plants do best with full sun, so plant them in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. However, it is possible to grow these plants in light shade if your site doesn’t meet the requirements for full sun.
Soil
These plants do best in dry, sandy soil. They can tolerate a range of other soil types, including clay soil, but well-draining soil is an absolute requirement. Century plants in overly moist soil can develop root rot.
Water
The long and fleshy leaves of the century plant are designed to store water during times of drought, so don’t hover around these plants with a watering can. However, these plants appreciate regular watering during the spring and summer growing season. Water deeply but then allow the soil to dry thoroughly in between watering sessions; this might be an interval of a week to a month, depending on climate conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The century plant is native to Mexico and Texas, providing an insight into the plant’s preferred temperature and humidity conditions. Warm temperatures with low humidity levels make for ideal climate conditions. Take note that the century plant is hardy to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but is likely to suffer damage from frost.
Fertilizer
It’s typically not necessary to fertilize a century plant. They do fine in sandy, nutrient-sparse soil. Like other agave species, these plants die after blooming so feeding with a fertilizer and accelerating the process only serves to shorten the plant’s lifecycle.
Types of Century Plants
‘Marginata’: Also sometimes known as a variegated century plant, this variety has cream-to-yellow margins along each side of the leaves, providing visual interest.
‘Mediopicta alba’: A slightly smaller cultivar variety, ‘Mediopicta alba’ features gray-green leaf margins with a single central stripe of creamy-white. It typically matures to a height of three to four feet, with a four- to six-foot spread.
‘Mediopicta aurea’: Similar to other mediopicta varieties of Agave americana, this cultivar matures to a smaller size at six feet tall and wide. It features variegated leaves with a bright yellow central stripe. It is generally also considered to fare better in light shade than some other agave varieties.
Propagating Century Plants
Like other agave species, century plants are most easily propagated from offsets. Also known as pups, these clones of the parent plant can easily be separated and planted independently. You won’t need many tools, because you can pull away the pups from the parent plant by hand in most cases. However, a small trowel can be useful and gloves will protect your hands from the spines of the parent plant. You will want to have a container or garden site ready with well-draining soil. Then, follow these steps to propagate:
After protecting your hands and arms, locate a pup at the base of the parent plant. In some cases, there can be a few pups growing close together. Use the trowel to gently loosen and separate the pups.
Grasp the pup at the base and wiggle it loose from the parent plant and soil. If necessary, use the trowel to separate the plant from the soil and roots attached to the parent plant. Leave a portion of the stem that connected to the offset to the parent, along with the pup’s root bundle. A bare base on the pup will be a challenging start to generating root growth.
Pups can be planted directly in the ground or in a container. In both instances, be sure to use well-draining soil.
How to Grow Century Plants From Seed
Growing a century plant from seed is fairly uncommon because the plant only flowers once in its lifetime only after several decades of growth. The much more common way to propagate a century plant is from offshoots, which it will regularly produce throughout its lifetime.
Potting and Repotting Century Plants
Century plants can be grown in pots, but keep in mind that these plants will mature to a very large size. Some gardeners choose to keep them in pots until the size of the plant (and its spiky leaves) makes it more practical to plant it in a permanent location in the ground.
If you choose to plant Agave americana in a container, choose a large pot and soil that offers excellent drainage. A combination of soil materials, such as an even mixture of compost, potting soil, and gravel or sand, is a good blend. You could also use a pre-mixed blend of succulent potting soil.
Fortunately, century plants are relatively slow-growing. You likely will only need to repot the plant every other year or so. When it's time to replant, wear protective gear like gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants to protect your skin from sharp spines. Replace the potting soil with a fresh mixture and choose a larger pot that will allow for the continued growth of your century plant.
Overwintering
The century plant is not frost tolerant, so it must be brought indoors to survive winter weather outside of its growing zones. If you have cold but relatively dry winters, you can overwinter a mature agave plant by providing it with a measure of protection from the elements. Plant it in a location that is well-draining and sheltered from northern exposures. Another option is to situate the plant next to a large rock, which will radiate heat after the sun goes down. If overnight temperatures reach the lower limit of this plant’s tolerance, cover it with a cotton sheet for additional protection.
How to Get Century Plants to Bloom
The most challenging part of getting a century plant to bloom is waiting for it to happen. In most cases, it will take 20 to 30 years before the plant sends up a single branched stalk with blossoms, reaching 20 feet or more in height. Fertilized or rapidly maturing plants might blossom in as little as ten years, but this is the exception rather than the rule. These plants only bloom once in their lifecycle, after which the plant dies.
After the century plant blooms, the leaves will collapse and the parent plant will die. However, because these plants are prolific producers of pups, a colony of offshoots will continue to thrive in the location.
Common Problems With Century Plants
The century plant is a healthy, vigorous plant that grows well when provided with the right growing conditions. However, it can face challenges in overly-moist conditions and gardeners must be vigilant in warding off the plant’s primary nemesis: the agave snout weevil.
Wilting or discolored leaves
If the leaves of the century plant become squishy, wilted, or discolored, this is a likely indicator of the most common problem to affect century plants: root rot, which is caused by overly moist soil conditions due to excess rainfall or watering. If the plant is manageable in size to dig out of the ground, you can examine the roots and cut away any black, slimy parts. Treat the remaining roots with a copper fungicide. Replant it in a drier location or amend the soil to improve drainage, perhaps with pumice, gravel, or sand.
Weak or foul-smelling plant
Typically, the large-growing century plant is steady and won’t easily be budged from side-to-side. However, if you notice that your plant is tilting or leaning or if a foul smell is coming from the plant, these are indications of an agave snout weevil infestation. These species of weevil feasts on large agave species, like the century plant. They weaken the plant by burrowing into the leaves to lay eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the plant’s tissue. Compounding the problem, bacteria enters the plant through the holes left by the weevil and the plant begins to decay, resulting in the foul smell. Once the visible signs of an agave snout weevil infestation are present, it’s often too late to save the plant. The best option is to protect century plants from weevils and other plants through a regular application of neem oil or other insecticide.
FAQ
Do century plants live for 100 years?
No. Despite the name, these plants have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years on average.
When does a century plant bloom?
A century plant will bloom once in its lifetime, usually between 25 and 30 years. Well-fertilized plants may bloom as soon as ten years, but most people avoid speeding up the blooming process, because the plant dies soon after blooming.
Are century plants easy to take care of?
These plants don't require regular maintenance and will grow with little hands-on care. It is important that they have well-draining soil and don’t receive too much moisture.
Also known as the American aloe, the plant’s name is a misnomer. It was once believed that it took 100 years for this plant to bloom, but we now know that it blooms after two or three decades of storing up energy to send up a single stalk, topped with an inflorescence of small yellow blossoms. A monocarpic species, the flower display is the plant’s final act before dying.
Common Name Century plant, American aloe, maguey
Botanical Name Agave americana
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Three to six feet tall, six to ten feet wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer (rarely blooms)
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 8-11, USDA
Native Area Texas and Mexico
Toxicity Toxic to people, toxic to pets
Century Plant Care
Hands-off care and patience are required for growing a century plant. These large agaves must have well-draining soil and will benefit from intermittent watering, depending on climate conditions. As you wait a decade (and likely more) for the flower stalk to emerge, you can expect these plants to produce plenty of offshoots, which can be left to grow as part of a large colony or transplanted to new locations. Be vigilant towards the appearance of agave snout weevils, which can damage a plant beyond recovery.
Light
Like other agave species, century plants do best with full sun, so plant them in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight each day. However, it is possible to grow these plants in light shade if your site doesn’t meet the requirements for full sun.
Soil
These plants do best in dry, sandy soil. They can tolerate a range of other soil types, including clay soil, but well-draining soil is an absolute requirement. Century plants in overly moist soil can develop root rot.
Water
The long and fleshy leaves of the century plant are designed to store water during times of drought, so don’t hover around these plants with a watering can. However, these plants appreciate regular watering during the spring and summer growing season. Water deeply but then allow the soil to dry thoroughly in between watering sessions; this might be an interval of a week to a month, depending on climate conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
The century plant is native to Mexico and Texas, providing an insight into the plant’s preferred temperature and humidity conditions. Warm temperatures with low humidity levels make for ideal climate conditions. Take note that the century plant is hardy to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but is likely to suffer damage from frost.
Fertilizer
It’s typically not necessary to fertilize a century plant. They do fine in sandy, nutrient-sparse soil. Like other agave species, these plants die after blooming so feeding with a fertilizer and accelerating the process only serves to shorten the plant’s lifecycle.
Types of Century Plants
‘Marginata’: Also sometimes known as a variegated century plant, this variety has cream-to-yellow margins along each side of the leaves, providing visual interest.
‘Mediopicta alba’: A slightly smaller cultivar variety, ‘Mediopicta alba’ features gray-green leaf margins with a single central stripe of creamy-white. It typically matures to a height of three to four feet, with a four- to six-foot spread.
‘Mediopicta aurea’: Similar to other mediopicta varieties of Agave americana, this cultivar matures to a smaller size at six feet tall and wide. It features variegated leaves with a bright yellow central stripe. It is generally also considered to fare better in light shade than some other agave varieties.
Propagating Century Plants
Like other agave species, century plants are most easily propagated from offsets. Also known as pups, these clones of the parent plant can easily be separated and planted independently. You won’t need many tools, because you can pull away the pups from the parent plant by hand in most cases. However, a small trowel can be useful and gloves will protect your hands from the spines of the parent plant. You will want to have a container or garden site ready with well-draining soil. Then, follow these steps to propagate:
After protecting your hands and arms, locate a pup at the base of the parent plant. In some cases, there can be a few pups growing close together. Use the trowel to gently loosen and separate the pups.
Grasp the pup at the base and wiggle it loose from the parent plant and soil. If necessary, use the trowel to separate the plant from the soil and roots attached to the parent plant. Leave a portion of the stem that connected to the offset to the parent, along with the pup’s root bundle. A bare base on the pup will be a challenging start to generating root growth.
Pups can be planted directly in the ground or in a container. In both instances, be sure to use well-draining soil.
How to Grow Century Plants From Seed
Growing a century plant from seed is fairly uncommon because the plant only flowers once in its lifetime only after several decades of growth. The much more common way to propagate a century plant is from offshoots, which it will regularly produce throughout its lifetime.
Potting and Repotting Century Plants
Century plants can be grown in pots, but keep in mind that these plants will mature to a very large size. Some gardeners choose to keep them in pots until the size of the plant (and its spiky leaves) makes it more practical to plant it in a permanent location in the ground.
If you choose to plant Agave americana in a container, choose a large pot and soil that offers excellent drainage. A combination of soil materials, such as an even mixture of compost, potting soil, and gravel or sand, is a good blend. You could also use a pre-mixed blend of succulent potting soil.
Fortunately, century plants are relatively slow-growing. You likely will only need to repot the plant every other year or so. When it's time to replant, wear protective gear like gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, and pants to protect your skin from sharp spines. Replace the potting soil with a fresh mixture and choose a larger pot that will allow for the continued growth of your century plant.
Overwintering
The century plant is not frost tolerant, so it must be brought indoors to survive winter weather outside of its growing zones. If you have cold but relatively dry winters, you can overwinter a mature agave plant by providing it with a measure of protection from the elements. Plant it in a location that is well-draining and sheltered from northern exposures. Another option is to situate the plant next to a large rock, which will radiate heat after the sun goes down. If overnight temperatures reach the lower limit of this plant’s tolerance, cover it with a cotton sheet for additional protection.
How to Get Century Plants to Bloom
The most challenging part of getting a century plant to bloom is waiting for it to happen. In most cases, it will take 20 to 30 years before the plant sends up a single branched stalk with blossoms, reaching 20 feet or more in height. Fertilized or rapidly maturing plants might blossom in as little as ten years, but this is the exception rather than the rule. These plants only bloom once in their lifecycle, after which the plant dies.
After the century plant blooms, the leaves will collapse and the parent plant will die. However, because these plants are prolific producers of pups, a colony of offshoots will continue to thrive in the location.
Common Problems With Century Plants
The century plant is a healthy, vigorous plant that grows well when provided with the right growing conditions. However, it can face challenges in overly-moist conditions and gardeners must be vigilant in warding off the plant’s primary nemesis: the agave snout weevil.
Wilting or discolored leaves
If the leaves of the century plant become squishy, wilted, or discolored, this is a likely indicator of the most common problem to affect century plants: root rot, which is caused by overly moist soil conditions due to excess rainfall or watering. If the plant is manageable in size to dig out of the ground, you can examine the roots and cut away any black, slimy parts. Treat the remaining roots with a copper fungicide. Replant it in a drier location or amend the soil to improve drainage, perhaps with pumice, gravel, or sand.
Weak or foul-smelling plant
Typically, the large-growing century plant is steady and won’t easily be budged from side-to-side. However, if you notice that your plant is tilting or leaning or if a foul smell is coming from the plant, these are indications of an agave snout weevil infestation. These species of weevil feasts on large agave species, like the century plant. They weaken the plant by burrowing into the leaves to lay eggs. Once hatched, the larvae feed on the plant’s tissue. Compounding the problem, bacteria enters the plant through the holes left by the weevil and the plant begins to decay, resulting in the foul smell. Once the visible signs of an agave snout weevil infestation are present, it’s often too late to save the plant. The best option is to protect century plants from weevils and other plants through a regular application of neem oil or other insecticide.
FAQ
Do century plants live for 100 years?
No. Despite the name, these plants have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years on average.
When does a century plant bloom?
A century plant will bloom once in its lifetime, usually between 25 and 30 years. Well-fertilized plants may bloom as soon as ten years, but most people avoid speeding up the blooming process, because the plant dies soon after blooming.
Are century plants easy to take care of?
These plants don't require regular maintenance and will grow with little hands-on care. It is important that they have well-draining soil and don’t receive too much moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年03月03日
If you want to add a bit of spice to your garden, the cayenne pepper plant might be the perfect choice. These plants are a Capsicum annuum species cultivar. The species includes many other common pepper varieties, including bell peppers, Serrano peppers, and jalapeños, although the cayenne packs more of a punch when it comes to heat.
The peppers themselves measure around 4-6 inches long, have a long, tapering shape with a curved tip, and are most commonly red. The plants also produce flowers that are white to slightly purple and are shaped like a bell.
These frost-tender perennials can be grown as annuals in temperate areas, but they grow best in warm regions that closely mimic the conditions of their native sub-tropical and tropical regions in South and Central America. They can be planted in spring after any danger of frost has passed, and they usually take around three months to produce a mature harvest.
Botanical Name Capsicum annuum 'Cayenne'
Common Name Cayenne pepper
Plant Type Perennial/annual
Mature Size Pepper: 4-6 inches; plant: up to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral pH
Bloom Time Spring/summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical South and Central America
How to Plant Cayenne Pepper Plants
Positioning and spacing are vitally important for a successful harvest of Cayenne peppers. Space the plants around 24 inches apart (just allowing for light contact), and if the seeds are started indoors, they shouldn't be planted out until a couple of weeks after the last frost and the soil is suitably warmed. Make sure you select a location that hasn't been used by other members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes or potatoes, in several years.
Cayenne Pepper Plant Care
Light
The cayenne pepper plant will grow best when exposed to full sunlight for at least eight hours per day.
Soil
Cayenne pepper plants require moist, well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. More acidic soil can produce peppers that are spicier than normal. If you are unsure, it may be worth conducting a soil pH level test.
Water
Watering cayenne pepper plants can be a delicate process. They do require moist soil, but overwatering is a problem too. If the soil becomes either too dry or too saturated, the plant's foliage can turn yellow. A deep watering every few days at the base of the plant is generally beneficial. Mulching around the plant can be a helpful way to conserve moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
The cayenne pepper plant is a warm-weather species native to tropical regions, and it requires consistently warm temperatures to survive. These plants cannot withstand extremes in temperatures, either heat or cold.
Temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will result in slow growth and leaf discoloration. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit will damage or kill the plants, and nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit can impact pepper production levels.
Fertilizer
Cayenne peppers will grow well in rich, fertile soil. If your soil is not particularly rich and you plant to use a fertilizer, make sure it isn't one with high nitrogen levels. This will direct energy towards impressive foliar growth rather than fruit production.
Harvesting
Cayenne peppers are usually ready to harvest anywhere from 70 to 100 days after planting. Ripe peppers will generally be red, around 4-6 inches long, have a waxy skin, and be firm to the touch. Overripe specimens that are soft will not be edible, and although you can eat the peppers when they are still green, they won't have such a pleasant or intense flavor.
Though the peppers can be pulled from the stem, it's recommended to snip the peppers from the plant to help prevent any damage. This is important because, when well maintained, you can continue to harvest peppers until the first fall frost.
Once picked, your peppers can be kept in the refrigerator. It is best to use them within a week of harvesting to appreciate the best flavor and nutritional value. The peppers can also be dried and ground into a powdered seasoning for use in an array of cuisines.
Growing Cayenne Peppers From Seeds
If you want to grow cayenne peppers in your own garden, and you happen to have a longer growing season and plenty of sun, you can sow the seeds directly into the soil 10 to 14 days before the final frost of the year.
However, when starting your cayenne pepper plant, you'll likely have the most success by planting them indoors or, better yet, in a greenhouse. The seedlings are delicate and cannot tolerate either overly hot or cold conditions.
When starting your plants indoors, place the container in a sunny location in a room that will maintain a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should be planted in light, well-drained soil and usually sprout in about 16 to 20 days.
Plant the growing seedlings into flats spaced a few inches apart or in individual pots, and then allow them to gradually acclimate to outdoor temperatures before transplanting about six to eight weeks later (assuming that all danger of frost has passed).
Transplanting is a shock for cayenne pepper seedlings, so take care to minimize the trauma. If you choose to transplant prior to the final frost of the season, you can protect them with hot caps, row covers, or black plastic.
Common Pests/Diseases
A few pests are attracted to peppers—they also tend to be problematic for other members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes). However, with attentive care, it would be rare for them to impact your harvest significantly. Keep an eye out for aphids, mites, pepper hornworms, pill bugs and leafminers.
Fungal diseases like leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and anthracnose can occasionally be a problem, especially in humid weather conditions. Proper spacing, good soil draining, and watering from the plant base can all help minimize the chances of these diseases becoming an issue.
The peppers themselves measure around 4-6 inches long, have a long, tapering shape with a curved tip, and are most commonly red. The plants also produce flowers that are white to slightly purple and are shaped like a bell.
These frost-tender perennials can be grown as annuals in temperate areas, but they grow best in warm regions that closely mimic the conditions of their native sub-tropical and tropical regions in South and Central America. They can be planted in spring after any danger of frost has passed, and they usually take around three months to produce a mature harvest.
Botanical Name Capsicum annuum 'Cayenne'
Common Name Cayenne pepper
Plant Type Perennial/annual
Mature Size Pepper: 4-6 inches; plant: up to 4 ft. tall
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral pH
Bloom Time Spring/summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 9-11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical South and Central America
How to Plant Cayenne Pepper Plants
Positioning and spacing are vitally important for a successful harvest of Cayenne peppers. Space the plants around 24 inches apart (just allowing for light contact), and if the seeds are started indoors, they shouldn't be planted out until a couple of weeks after the last frost and the soil is suitably warmed. Make sure you select a location that hasn't been used by other members of the Solanaceae family, such as tomatoes or potatoes, in several years.
Cayenne Pepper Plant Care
Light
The cayenne pepper plant will grow best when exposed to full sunlight for at least eight hours per day.
Soil
Cayenne pepper plants require moist, well-drained, fertile soil with a neutral pH. More acidic soil can produce peppers that are spicier than normal. If you are unsure, it may be worth conducting a soil pH level test.
Water
Watering cayenne pepper plants can be a delicate process. They do require moist soil, but overwatering is a problem too. If the soil becomes either too dry or too saturated, the plant's foliage can turn yellow. A deep watering every few days at the base of the plant is generally beneficial. Mulching around the plant can be a helpful way to conserve moisture.
Temperature and Humidity
The cayenne pepper plant is a warm-weather species native to tropical regions, and it requires consistently warm temperatures to survive. These plants cannot withstand extremes in temperatures, either heat or cold.
Temperatures consistently below 55 degrees Fahrenheit will result in slow growth and leaf discoloration. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit will damage or kill the plants, and nighttime temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit can impact pepper production levels.
Fertilizer
Cayenne peppers will grow well in rich, fertile soil. If your soil is not particularly rich and you plant to use a fertilizer, make sure it isn't one with high nitrogen levels. This will direct energy towards impressive foliar growth rather than fruit production.
Harvesting
Cayenne peppers are usually ready to harvest anywhere from 70 to 100 days after planting. Ripe peppers will generally be red, around 4-6 inches long, have a waxy skin, and be firm to the touch. Overripe specimens that are soft will not be edible, and although you can eat the peppers when they are still green, they won't have such a pleasant or intense flavor.
Though the peppers can be pulled from the stem, it's recommended to snip the peppers from the plant to help prevent any damage. This is important because, when well maintained, you can continue to harvest peppers until the first fall frost.
Once picked, your peppers can be kept in the refrigerator. It is best to use them within a week of harvesting to appreciate the best flavor and nutritional value. The peppers can also be dried and ground into a powdered seasoning for use in an array of cuisines.
Growing Cayenne Peppers From Seeds
If you want to grow cayenne peppers in your own garden, and you happen to have a longer growing season and plenty of sun, you can sow the seeds directly into the soil 10 to 14 days before the final frost of the year.
However, when starting your cayenne pepper plant, you'll likely have the most success by planting them indoors or, better yet, in a greenhouse. The seedlings are delicate and cannot tolerate either overly hot or cold conditions.
When starting your plants indoors, place the container in a sunny location in a room that will maintain a temperature of at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds should be planted in light, well-drained soil and usually sprout in about 16 to 20 days.
Plant the growing seedlings into flats spaced a few inches apart or in individual pots, and then allow them to gradually acclimate to outdoor temperatures before transplanting about six to eight weeks later (assuming that all danger of frost has passed).
Transplanting is a shock for cayenne pepper seedlings, so take care to minimize the trauma. If you choose to transplant prior to the final frost of the season, you can protect them with hot caps, row covers, or black plastic.
Common Pests/Diseases
A few pests are attracted to peppers—they also tend to be problematic for other members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes). However, with attentive care, it would be rare for them to impact your harvest significantly. Keep an eye out for aphids, mites, pepper hornworms, pill bugs and leafminers.
Fungal diseases like leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and anthracnose can occasionally be a problem, especially in humid weather conditions. Proper spacing, good soil draining, and watering from the plant base can all help minimize the chances of these diseases becoming an issue.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月26日
Catmint (Nepeta) is a perennial herb that is a member of the mint family. It is an extremely easy-growing plant with few pests or problems. Nepeta has slightly aromatic gray-green foliage with a delicate, lacy appearance. Its billowing foliage is topped with spikes of flowers in early summer, with repeat blooms throughout the season. The flowers can be white, pink, or lavender-blue.
Most catmint varieties have a somewhat sprawling growth habit, making them nice plants for edging planting areas and for running along paths. However, there are a few tall-growing varieties, like ‘Six Hills Giant’, with a more upright habit. As with many scented, gray-foliage plants, catmint is deer-resistant. It grows quickly and, in most climates, can be planted from spring to early fall.
Botanical Name Nepeta spp.
Common Name Catmint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10 to 24 inches tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Dry, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Blue, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa
How to Plant Catmint
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile and produce no viable seeds. This is a plus if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties, but it means you will need to either buy plants or make plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, there are some varieties that are more compact, and there are others that will grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant description before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will give you stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
Light
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Soil
Humus-rich, well-draining soil is ideal. Many species grow easily in a wide range of soil types, including dry clay and sandy or rocky soil.
Water
First-year plants need frequent watering, but once rooted, catmints are drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Catmints like cool temperatures and benefit from afternoon shade in warm climates. They are often not tolerant of high heat and humidity.
Fertilizer
Add compost to the plant’s base in the fall, but once rooted it needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties
'Six Hills Giant’Nepeta x faassenii is one of the tallest-growing Nepetas and has lavender-blue flowers. It grows up to 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide, so be sure to give it plenty of room in your garden.
Nepeta subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams' features pink flowers with burgundy bracts. This variety likes a bit more water than most Nepetas. It grows to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ has lavender-blue flowers with 8-inch spikes. This 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year reaches 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and is one of the hardiest and most reliable Nepetas.
Nepeta recemosa 'Little Titch' is a dwarf variety with pale blue flowers. It is just as long-blooming as many of its larger cousins, but its growth stops at about 8 to 10 inches tall and 15 inches wide.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a type of catmint and is arguably the best-known species in the Nepeta genus, at least among home gardeners. It's not the only type of catmint that makes cats loopy, but it's your best bet if that's your goal. Catnip has similar growing and care needs to other catmint plants and matures at 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It blooms from May to September and has white flowers spotted with pale purple. Catnip is relatively cold-hardy and grows well in zones 3 to 9.
Pruning
Most catmints will repeat-bloom if they are sheared back after their initial flowering. Some won’t provide much of a second show, but their foliage will be refreshed and tidied by the shearing.
Propagating Catmint
Catmint plants will continue to grow and bloom well for years. But if you’d like to divide them to make more plants, all Nepeta varieties respond well to division in the spring. Find a section of the plant with undeveloped shoots and a good root system, and slice it vertically with a spade. Replant the division, and keep watering it until it becomes established.
Landscape Uses for Catmint
Catmint is a classic choice for planting under roses. The pale colors of catmint complement most roses, and the soft, frilly foliage hides the ugly "knees" of the rose bush. Catmint is also a wonderful plant for edging, where it softens hard lines. Catmint plants will gracefully spill over walls and walkways and are great for providing contrast to spiky plants like iris and yucca.
The pastel blues of many catmint flowers pair well with pink and yellow flowers, such as those of daylilies and yarrow (Achillea). Because of its similarity to lavender plants, catmint is often used as a replacement in areas where lavender does not grow well.
Most catmint varieties have a somewhat sprawling growth habit, making them nice plants for edging planting areas and for running along paths. However, there are a few tall-growing varieties, like ‘Six Hills Giant’, with a more upright habit. As with many scented, gray-foliage plants, catmint is deer-resistant. It grows quickly and, in most climates, can be planted from spring to early fall.
Botanical Name Nepeta spp.
Common Name Catmint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10 to 24 inches tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Dry, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Blue, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa
How to Plant Catmint
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile and produce no viable seeds. This is a plus if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties, but it means you will need to either buy plants or make plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, there are some varieties that are more compact, and there are others that will grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant description before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will give you stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
Light
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Soil
Humus-rich, well-draining soil is ideal. Many species grow easily in a wide range of soil types, including dry clay and sandy or rocky soil.
Water
First-year plants need frequent watering, but once rooted, catmints are drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Catmints like cool temperatures and benefit from afternoon shade in warm climates. They are often not tolerant of high heat and humidity.
Fertilizer
Add compost to the plant’s base in the fall, but once rooted it needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties
'Six Hills Giant’Nepeta x faassenii is one of the tallest-growing Nepetas and has lavender-blue flowers. It grows up to 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide, so be sure to give it plenty of room in your garden.
Nepeta subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams' features pink flowers with burgundy bracts. This variety likes a bit more water than most Nepetas. It grows to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ has lavender-blue flowers with 8-inch spikes. This 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year reaches 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and is one of the hardiest and most reliable Nepetas.
Nepeta recemosa 'Little Titch' is a dwarf variety with pale blue flowers. It is just as long-blooming as many of its larger cousins, but its growth stops at about 8 to 10 inches tall and 15 inches wide.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a type of catmint and is arguably the best-known species in the Nepeta genus, at least among home gardeners. It's not the only type of catmint that makes cats loopy, but it's your best bet if that's your goal. Catnip has similar growing and care needs to other catmint plants and matures at 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It blooms from May to September and has white flowers spotted with pale purple. Catnip is relatively cold-hardy and grows well in zones 3 to 9.
Pruning
Most catmints will repeat-bloom if they are sheared back after their initial flowering. Some won’t provide much of a second show, but their foliage will be refreshed and tidied by the shearing.
Propagating Catmint
Catmint plants will continue to grow and bloom well for years. But if you’d like to divide them to make more plants, all Nepeta varieties respond well to division in the spring. Find a section of the plant with undeveloped shoots and a good root system, and slice it vertically with a spade. Replant the division, and keep watering it until it becomes established.
Landscape Uses for Catmint
Catmint is a classic choice for planting under roses. The pale colors of catmint complement most roses, and the soft, frilly foliage hides the ugly "knees" of the rose bush. Catmint is also a wonderful plant for edging, where it softens hard lines. Catmint plants will gracefully spill over walls and walkways and are great for providing contrast to spiky plants like iris and yucca.
The pastel blues of many catmint flowers pair well with pink and yellow flowers, such as those of daylilies and yarrow (Achillea). Because of its similarity to lavender plants, catmint is often used as a replacement in areas where lavender does not grow well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月23日
The gloriosa lily is not a true lily, but it has lily-like flowers and this is how it got its common name. This plant belongs to the same family as autumn crocuses, Colchicaceae, but it does not look like a crocus either—it is a slender, tall vine that grows up to eight feet tall.
In the spring, the gloriosa lily sends out tall stems from its thick, tuberous roots. The stems grow quickly and from mid-summer to fall develop flowers that can be nodding or opening upwards. After the bloom, the stems die back.
Two words of caution about this plant. Firstly, the tubers spread vigorously and in Australia and several Pacific islands, gloriosa lily is classified as invasive. While it has not been classified as invasive by any US state, it has escaped cultivation in several areas. Due to its highly invasive potential, it is recommended to grow gloriosa lily in pots only.
Botanical Name Gloriosa superba
Common Name Gloriosa lily, glory lily, fire lily, flame lily, climbing lily, creeping lily, cat’s claw, tiger’s claw
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size Six to eight feet height, one to three feet width
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.5
Bloom Time Mid-summer to fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink
Hardiness Zones 8-12, USA
Native Area Tropical and sub-Saharan Africa, Indian subcontinent, southern China and southeast tropical Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Gloriosa Lily Care
As a native of subtropical and tropical areas in Africa and Asia, Gloriosa lily is not frost-resistant and can only be grown as a perennial in a warm climate. In a cool climate zone, you can still grow it as a summer annual. Just dig the tubers out in the fall before the first frost and overwinter them indoors, then replant them in the spring.
When the stalks start growing in the spring, have the support in place, such as a light wire trellis, so the leaf tendrils have something to latch onto.
Light
Gloriosa lily grows in full sun to partial shade. Especially in hot, dry climates, it does better with some protection from the hot afternoon sun, such as dappled shade from nearby taller plants.
Soil
The soil should be rich and provide excellent drainage. Sandy or loamy types will work best. To enrich the soil, amend it with organic matter.
Gloriosa lily grows well in neutral to slightly acidic soil.
Water
Gloriosa lily needs even moisture during the growing season from spring to fall. In the absence of rain, water it regularly while making sure there is good drainage, so the plant never sits in soggy, wet soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Gloriosa lily grows in elevations up to 2,000 feet, where the daytime temperature is moderate, around 70 degrees, and nights are cool, around 60 degrees F. It does not do well in hot, arid climates.
In high humidity, on the other hand, gloriosa lily is in its element—think monsoon season in its native habitat.
Fertilizer
Fertilize gloriosa lily about once a month with a diluted complete fertilizer during the growing season, less frequently when the soil is very rich. Too much fertilizer will not necessarily lead to a better bloom and can instead encourage the growth of foliage.
Propagating Gloriosa Lily
Gloriosa lily is grown from tubers, which remain dormant during the winter. Store the tubers in a dry, cool, frost-free location until you are ready to plant in the spring when the danger of frost is past. The growth will be slow at first and pick up as the weather gets warmer.
Gloriosa lily can be divided every three years at the maximum.
Varieties of Gloriosa Lily
There are several cultivars of gloriosa lily with different colored flowers ranging from yellow to golden, orange, red or pink. One of the most popular cultivars is ‘Rothschildiana’ with bright red flowers and yellow margins.
Growing Gloriosa Lily in Containers
Growing gloriosa lily in containers is a good idea for several reasons. First, it’s the only way you can grow it in a cool climate with subzero winters. Second, you avoid the risk that it will spread uncontrolled and become invasive. And lastly, the tubers are very brittle and break easily so the less you are handling them the better (and because of their toxicity, handling them requires special precautions).
Therefore, the best option is to plant the tubers in containers where you leave them year-round. In containers, they will need more frequent watering and a sunny patio is usually too hot for the plant. Alternatively, you can bury the containers in garden soil and dig them out again in the fall before the first frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Gloriosa lily can be affected by aphids, anthracnose, the cucumber mosaic virus and other viruses, as well as root rot.
Leaves that turn dry and pale are not a disease but a sign of too much sun exposure.
In the spring, the gloriosa lily sends out tall stems from its thick, tuberous roots. The stems grow quickly and from mid-summer to fall develop flowers that can be nodding or opening upwards. After the bloom, the stems die back.
Two words of caution about this plant. Firstly, the tubers spread vigorously and in Australia and several Pacific islands, gloriosa lily is classified as invasive. While it has not been classified as invasive by any US state, it has escaped cultivation in several areas. Due to its highly invasive potential, it is recommended to grow gloriosa lily in pots only.
Botanical Name Gloriosa superba
Common Name Gloriosa lily, glory lily, fire lily, flame lily, climbing lily, creeping lily, cat’s claw, tiger’s claw
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size Six to eight feet height, one to three feet width
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Sandy, loamy
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.5
Bloom Time Mid-summer to fall
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink
Hardiness Zones 8-12, USA
Native Area Tropical and sub-Saharan Africa, Indian subcontinent, southern China and southeast tropical Asia
Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals
Gloriosa Lily Care
As a native of subtropical and tropical areas in Africa and Asia, Gloriosa lily is not frost-resistant and can only be grown as a perennial in a warm climate. In a cool climate zone, you can still grow it as a summer annual. Just dig the tubers out in the fall before the first frost and overwinter them indoors, then replant them in the spring.
When the stalks start growing in the spring, have the support in place, such as a light wire trellis, so the leaf tendrils have something to latch onto.
Light
Gloriosa lily grows in full sun to partial shade. Especially in hot, dry climates, it does better with some protection from the hot afternoon sun, such as dappled shade from nearby taller plants.
Soil
The soil should be rich and provide excellent drainage. Sandy or loamy types will work best. To enrich the soil, amend it with organic matter.
Gloriosa lily grows well in neutral to slightly acidic soil.
Water
Gloriosa lily needs even moisture during the growing season from spring to fall. In the absence of rain, water it regularly while making sure there is good drainage, so the plant never sits in soggy, wet soil.
Temperature and Humidity
Gloriosa lily grows in elevations up to 2,000 feet, where the daytime temperature is moderate, around 70 degrees, and nights are cool, around 60 degrees F. It does not do well in hot, arid climates.
In high humidity, on the other hand, gloriosa lily is in its element—think monsoon season in its native habitat.
Fertilizer
Fertilize gloriosa lily about once a month with a diluted complete fertilizer during the growing season, less frequently when the soil is very rich. Too much fertilizer will not necessarily lead to a better bloom and can instead encourage the growth of foliage.
Propagating Gloriosa Lily
Gloriosa lily is grown from tubers, which remain dormant during the winter. Store the tubers in a dry, cool, frost-free location until you are ready to plant in the spring when the danger of frost is past. The growth will be slow at first and pick up as the weather gets warmer.
Gloriosa lily can be divided every three years at the maximum.
Varieties of Gloriosa Lily
There are several cultivars of gloriosa lily with different colored flowers ranging from yellow to golden, orange, red or pink. One of the most popular cultivars is ‘Rothschildiana’ with bright red flowers and yellow margins.
Growing Gloriosa Lily in Containers
Growing gloriosa lily in containers is a good idea for several reasons. First, it’s the only way you can grow it in a cool climate with subzero winters. Second, you avoid the risk that it will spread uncontrolled and become invasive. And lastly, the tubers are very brittle and break easily so the less you are handling them the better (and because of their toxicity, handling them requires special precautions).
Therefore, the best option is to plant the tubers in containers where you leave them year-round. In containers, they will need more frequent watering and a sunny patio is usually too hot for the plant. Alternatively, you can bury the containers in garden soil and dig them out again in the fall before the first frost.
Common Pests/Diseases
Gloriosa lily can be affected by aphids, anthracnose, the cucumber mosaic virus and other viruses, as well as root rot.
Leaves that turn dry and pale are not a disease but a sign of too much sun exposure.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月21日
The cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has earned its reputation as a hard-to-kill houseplant, along with being a beautiful outdoor foliage plant within its growing zones. This plant can survive lots of neglect and growing conditions that will kill many other plants, such as low light conditions. It has arching, lance-shaped, deep green, glossy leaves that can reach around 2 feet long and 4 inches wide. When grown outdoors, it sometimes produces insignificant cream and purple flowers near the base of the plant, but the blossoms usually do not appear when the plant is grown indoors. The cast-iron plant has a fairly slow growth rate, and spring is generally the best time to plant it.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant
Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior
Family Asparagaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Partial, shade
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Spring, summer
Flower Color White/purple
Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA
Native Area Asia
Cast-Iron Plant Care
For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease.
Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best.
Light
Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight.
Soil
Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix.
Water
While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness.
Temperature and Humidity
Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth.
Fertilizer
Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots.
Types of Cast-Iron Plants
There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including:
'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes.
'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow.
'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots.
'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded.
To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant.
Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants
When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly.
Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix.
Common Pests
Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants
Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking.
Browning Tips
Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown
Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes.
FAQ
Do cast-iron plants need sun?
Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow.
Are cast-iron plants easy to care for?
Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best.
How fast do cast-iron plants grow?
The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月19日
The popcorn plant is a tall shrub, and in its native African habitat it can grow up to 25 feet in height. When grown as a small shrub in colder climates as an annual, it usually doesn't get taller than 3 feet. The plant's common name comes, in part, from its distinctive scent, said to be uncannily like buttered popcorn. The smell comes not from the bright yellow flowers (which also look a bit like popped popcorn), but from the small oval leaves. The leaves grow to about 3 inches long in pairs up and down the stem. The plant is popular with children for its recognizable scent that must be coaxed by touching the leaves. However, since the plant is poisonous if ingested, it's best not to have it in reach of small children or curious pets.
Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya
Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia
Family Fabaceae
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 9
Native Areas Africa
Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets
Popcorn Plant Care
With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds.
The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions.
Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata.
Light
The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture.
Soil
This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry.
Water
Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry.
Temperature and Humidity
After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants.
Pruning
Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning.
Propagating Popcorn Plants
This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed
The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants
When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over.
Overwintering
Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally.
If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.
If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet.
How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom
Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring.
FAQ
Where should I place popcorn plants in my house?
These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis.
How long does a popcorn plant live?
Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years.
Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown?
These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya
Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia
Family Fabaceae
Plant Type Perennial, annual
Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual)
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 9
Native Areas Africa
Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets
Popcorn Plant Care
With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds.
The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions.
Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata.
Light
The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture.
Soil
This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry.
Water
Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry.
Temperature and Humidity
After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels.
Fertilizer
Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants.
Pruning
Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning.
Propagating Popcorn Plants
This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed
The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed.
Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants
When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over.
Overwintering
Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally.
If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis.
If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet.
How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom
Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring.
FAQ
Where should I place popcorn plants in my house?
These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis.
How long does a popcorn plant live?
Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years.
Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown?
These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月08日
Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) is a native plant of North, South, and Central America, normally found in moist areas such as streams, swamps, and low wooded areas. It is a clump-forming perennial with lance-shaped dark green leaves that form basal clumps and tall flower stalks that hold clusters of tubular flowers from July into early fall. The native species has scarlet red flowers, but there are also cultivars with white, blue, purple, and rose-pink flowers. These are all excellent landscape plants for garden areas with wet soil.
Cardinal flower is normally planted from potted nursery starts in the spring, or by seeds sown in fall or spring. It is a fairly fast-growing plant that usually flowers in its first year. Individual plants are short-lived, but cardinal flower perpetuates itself constantly by sending out offshoots that quickly colonize an area.
As is true of other species in the Lobelia genus, cardinal flower is seriously toxic to humans and to pets. The plant contains several toxic alkaloid compounds, including lobelamine and loeline, which can cause a variety of symptoms, ranging from digestive upset to convulsions and even death.
Common Name Cardinal flower
Botanical Name Lobelia cardinalis
Family Campanulaceae (Bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall; 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to early fall
Flower Color Red, pink, white, blue, purple
Hardiness Zones 3-9 (USDA)
Native Area The United States and Canada
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Cardinal Flower Care
Cardinal flowers are easy to grow in any moist area that receives full or partial sunlight. Because the cardinal flower is naturally found in wet areas, keeping the soil evenly moist is key to its health. Individual plants rarely last more than a few years, but colonies can continue on for many years through offsets and self-seeding. Allowing your cardinal flowers to reseed themselves is ideal. This ensures that they will continue to come back every year, full and beautiful. Dividing your plants every two to three years will also help prolong life and create more plants.
Cardinal flower is uniquely free of common pests and diseases, but the basal foliage is sometimes targeted by snails and slugs.
Light
In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat.
Soil
The cardinal flower loves rich, moist-to-wet soil that often causes other plants to collapse with rot, but it struggles in dry, barren soils. To help retain soil moisture, try adding a layer of mulch around your plants. Amending soil with heavy amounts of compost or peat moss can also improve soil moisture levels.
Water
This plant appreciates plenty of water. Cardinal flower can even tolerate prolonged seasonal flooding. Be sure to maintain a consistent watering schedule that keeps the soil evenly moist. Heavy twice-a-week watering may be necessary during hot months if no rain is falling.
Temperature and Humidity
Cardinal flower can routinely handle the wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 9. It is known to survive down to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, and some zone 2 gardeners have grown it successfully. The named cultivars and hybrids, however, may be somewhat less cold-hardy than the native species plant.
Since cardinal flowers love moisture, higher humidity levels are ideal; these plants aren't well suited for arid climates.
Fertilizer
Cardinal flowers generally do not require fertilizer throughout the year. Adding compost and organic material in the late winter or early spring will provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. This one-time application is generally sufficient for healthy growth.
Types of Cardinal Flower
In addition to the native species, Lobelia cardinalis, there are several cultivars that have been developed to expand the range of flower colors:
'Queen Victoria' features the plant's trademark vivid red flowers on burgundy stems.
'Black Truffle' also has crimson flowers, but very dark purple foliage that is nearly black.
'Rosea' features pink flowers.
'Alba' Is topped with white flowers.
'Angel Song' is filled with cream- and salmon-colored flowers.
There are also a couple of hybrids to consider:
Lobelia x speciosa 'Vadrariensis' has dark violet flowers. It grows to 4 feet tall.
Lobelia x speciosa 'Star Ship Deep Rose' is a 24-inch-tall plant with deep pink flowers.
Pruning
You may want to remove spent flower spikes to keep your plant looking clean and to encourage further blooming. Just keep in mind that this may not allow the plant to self-seed, which could impact next year's colony.
If you find your plant getting a bit unruly during its growing season, feel free to trim it back to help maintain a bushier, less leggy look.
Propagating Cardinal Flowers
Cardinal flowers can be propagated by seed, division, or by transplanting young plants that develop around the mature plant. Here's how to propagate by division:
In the spring or fall, carefully dig up entire colony.
Divide the root clumps into individual sections, each containing a healthy network of roots and a piece of the crown.
Plant each division in the desired location. If re-establishing a colony, plant the pieces about 1 foot apart.
If you would like to remove young volunteer plants that have formed around your mature plant by self-seeding, simply dig them up in the fall and place them wherever you like.
How to Grow Cardinal Flowers From Seed
To propagate by seed, you have a couple of options. These plants easily self-seed, so you can simply leave the seed pods on the plant and allow them to fall naturally. Another option is to collect the seeds, sowing them around the plant when they are ripe If you would like to collect seeds to start indoors, here’s how:
Once the seeds pods begin to open, pick them off the plant and collect the seeds. They can be replanted immediately in the garden, if you so choose, or stored in the refrigerator to plant in the spring.
If you plan to start seeds indoors. give them several weeks in the refrigerator to provide the necessary cold stratification.
Six to eight weeks before the last spring frost, sow the seeds on the surface of pots filled with moist potting soil, Do not cover the seeds as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots in a bright location at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
After the last threat of frost, you can plant the seedlings in the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cardinal Flower
Cardinal flower is not a common choice for planting in pots and other containers, but it can be done. Use a large, well-draining pot filled with ordinary commercial potting mix. These moisture-loving plants will require frequent watering when grown in containers.
These are not plants that can be moved indoors to grow as houseplants for the winter. Instead, move the potted plants to a sheltered location out of the wind for the winter months.
Overwintering
In most regions, cardinal flower requires no special preparation or protection, other then cutting the stalks down to ground level. This will keep things tidy for when new stalks emerge from the roots in spring.
In regions where their hardiness is borderline (zone 3), a layer of mulch over the root crowns will moderate freeze-thaw cycles over the winter and ensure the plants return the following spring. These plants can survive extremely low winter temps but frequent thaw-refreeze cycles may cause them to perish.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The cardinal flower is a very hardy plant troubled by very few pests or diseases. The most common pests are snails and slugs, so take protective measures against them if they show up.
Fungal infections such as rust and leaf spots may arise if the plants are crowded and if airflow around them isn't good. Fungicides can usually treat the problem, but you can also simply cut the plants down to the ground and allow them to grow back fungus-free. Make sure to keep neighboring plants cut back so that the cardinal flowers have room to breathe.
Common Problems With Cardinal Flower
Like many native wildflower species, cardinal flowers are pretty fuss-free plants. The common complaints are fairly easy to address:
Yellowing Leaves
If you find that the leaves of cardinal flowers are turning yellow, it might indicate nutrient-deficient soil. A rich compost applied around the base of the plants can help.
Toppling Flower Stalks
When cardinal flower grows in shady conditions, the stalks may become overly leggy as they reach for the sun. In some cases, you may need to use stakes or hoops to support the flower stalks against the wind.
Clumps Become Sparse
Cardinal flower is a fairly short-lived plant that dies back after flowering, though a colony will continue to sustain itself by the offshoots that are created. But an older clump may spread out and become sparse. The solution is to dig up the plant, divide the crown, and replant the pieces with closer spacing.
Cardinal flower is normally planted from potted nursery starts in the spring, or by seeds sown in fall or spring. It is a fairly fast-growing plant that usually flowers in its first year. Individual plants are short-lived, but cardinal flower perpetuates itself constantly by sending out offshoots that quickly colonize an area.
As is true of other species in the Lobelia genus, cardinal flower is seriously toxic to humans and to pets. The plant contains several toxic alkaloid compounds, including lobelamine and loeline, which can cause a variety of symptoms, ranging from digestive upset to convulsions and even death.
Common Name Cardinal flower
Botanical Name Lobelia cardinalis
Family Campanulaceae (Bellflower)
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall; 1-2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full to partial
Soil Type Moist
Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Summer to early fall
Flower Color Red, pink, white, blue, purple
Hardiness Zones 3-9 (USDA)
Native Area The United States and Canada
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Cardinal Flower Care
Cardinal flowers are easy to grow in any moist area that receives full or partial sunlight. Because the cardinal flower is naturally found in wet areas, keeping the soil evenly moist is key to its health. Individual plants rarely last more than a few years, but colonies can continue on for many years through offsets and self-seeding. Allowing your cardinal flowers to reseed themselves is ideal. This ensures that they will continue to come back every year, full and beautiful. Dividing your plants every two to three years will also help prolong life and create more plants.
Cardinal flower is uniquely free of common pests and diseases, but the basal foliage is sometimes targeted by snails and slugs.
Light
In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat.
Soil
The cardinal flower loves rich, moist-to-wet soil that often causes other plants to collapse with rot, but it struggles in dry, barren soils. To help retain soil moisture, try adding a layer of mulch around your plants. Amending soil with heavy amounts of compost or peat moss can also improve soil moisture levels.
Water
This plant appreciates plenty of water. Cardinal flower can even tolerate prolonged seasonal flooding. Be sure to maintain a consistent watering schedule that keeps the soil evenly moist. Heavy twice-a-week watering may be necessary during hot months if no rain is falling.
Temperature and Humidity
Cardinal flower can routinely handle the wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 9. It is known to survive down to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, and some zone 2 gardeners have grown it successfully. The named cultivars and hybrids, however, may be somewhat less cold-hardy than the native species plant.
Since cardinal flowers love moisture, higher humidity levels are ideal; these plants aren't well suited for arid climates.
Fertilizer
Cardinal flowers generally do not require fertilizer throughout the year. Adding compost and organic material in the late winter or early spring will provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. This one-time application is generally sufficient for healthy growth.
Types of Cardinal Flower
In addition to the native species, Lobelia cardinalis, there are several cultivars that have been developed to expand the range of flower colors:
'Queen Victoria' features the plant's trademark vivid red flowers on burgundy stems.
'Black Truffle' also has crimson flowers, but very dark purple foliage that is nearly black.
'Rosea' features pink flowers.
'Alba' Is topped with white flowers.
'Angel Song' is filled with cream- and salmon-colored flowers.
There are also a couple of hybrids to consider:
Lobelia x speciosa 'Vadrariensis' has dark violet flowers. It grows to 4 feet tall.
Lobelia x speciosa 'Star Ship Deep Rose' is a 24-inch-tall plant with deep pink flowers.
Pruning
You may want to remove spent flower spikes to keep your plant looking clean and to encourage further blooming. Just keep in mind that this may not allow the plant to self-seed, which could impact next year's colony.
If you find your plant getting a bit unruly during its growing season, feel free to trim it back to help maintain a bushier, less leggy look.
Propagating Cardinal Flowers
Cardinal flowers can be propagated by seed, division, or by transplanting young plants that develop around the mature plant. Here's how to propagate by division:
In the spring or fall, carefully dig up entire colony.
Divide the root clumps into individual sections, each containing a healthy network of roots and a piece of the crown.
Plant each division in the desired location. If re-establishing a colony, plant the pieces about 1 foot apart.
If you would like to remove young volunteer plants that have formed around your mature plant by self-seeding, simply dig them up in the fall and place them wherever you like.
How to Grow Cardinal Flowers From Seed
To propagate by seed, you have a couple of options. These plants easily self-seed, so you can simply leave the seed pods on the plant and allow them to fall naturally. Another option is to collect the seeds, sowing them around the plant when they are ripe If you would like to collect seeds to start indoors, here’s how:
Once the seeds pods begin to open, pick them off the plant and collect the seeds. They can be replanted immediately in the garden, if you so choose, or stored in the refrigerator to plant in the spring.
If you plan to start seeds indoors. give them several weeks in the refrigerator to provide the necessary cold stratification.
Six to eight weeks before the last spring frost, sow the seeds on the surface of pots filled with moist potting soil, Do not cover the seeds as they need light to germinate.
Place the pots in a bright location at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing.
After the last threat of frost, you can plant the seedlings in the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cardinal Flower
Cardinal flower is not a common choice for planting in pots and other containers, but it can be done. Use a large, well-draining pot filled with ordinary commercial potting mix. These moisture-loving plants will require frequent watering when grown in containers.
These are not plants that can be moved indoors to grow as houseplants for the winter. Instead, move the potted plants to a sheltered location out of the wind for the winter months.
Overwintering
In most regions, cardinal flower requires no special preparation or protection, other then cutting the stalks down to ground level. This will keep things tidy for when new stalks emerge from the roots in spring.
In regions where their hardiness is borderline (zone 3), a layer of mulch over the root crowns will moderate freeze-thaw cycles over the winter and ensure the plants return the following spring. These plants can survive extremely low winter temps but frequent thaw-refreeze cycles may cause them to perish.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
The cardinal flower is a very hardy plant troubled by very few pests or diseases. The most common pests are snails and slugs, so take protective measures against them if they show up.
Fungal infections such as rust and leaf spots may arise if the plants are crowded and if airflow around them isn't good. Fungicides can usually treat the problem, but you can also simply cut the plants down to the ground and allow them to grow back fungus-free. Make sure to keep neighboring plants cut back so that the cardinal flowers have room to breathe.
Common Problems With Cardinal Flower
Like many native wildflower species, cardinal flowers are pretty fuss-free plants. The common complaints are fairly easy to address:
Yellowing Leaves
If you find that the leaves of cardinal flowers are turning yellow, it might indicate nutrient-deficient soil. A rich compost applied around the base of the plants can help.
Toppling Flower Stalks
When cardinal flower grows in shady conditions, the stalks may become overly leggy as they reach for the sun. In some cases, you may need to use stakes or hoops to support the flower stalks against the wind.
Clumps Become Sparse
Cardinal flower is a fairly short-lived plant that dies back after flowering, though a colony will continue to sustain itself by the offshoots that are created. But an older clump may spread out and become sparse. The solution is to dig up the plant, divide the crown, and replant the pieces with closer spacing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月06日
Cardinal climber Ipomoea × multifida) is one of those plants that fully lives up to its name. The blossoms of this hybrid plant are a true cardinal red, and the vine reaches for whatever it can grab. This is a very graceful, airy annual vine, related to morning glory (one of the parent plants of this hybrid). It blooms profusely throughout the summer and the red, trumpet-shaped flowers are big favorites of hummingbirds and other pollinators. The bright green leaves are triangular, with deep, narrow lobes that give them a lacy appearance resembling that of small palm leaves. The tubular flowers are red, with white or yellow throats. Five petals overlap to form a swept-back pentagon at the opening.
Cardinal climber is often planted near a trellis or other structure that it can climb; it can also be used as a dense ground-cover. The delicate, lacy leaves form a peek-a-boo screen rather than blocking the view entirely. This makes them great for training over an arbor or trellis. They are also a good choice for softening a wall and adding an airy feeling.
Cardinal climber can also be grown in containers. Add support in the container for even more height. They look wonderful growing around an obelisk, in the center of other flowers.
Botanical Name Ipomoea × multifida
Common Name Cardinal climber
Plant Type Annual flowering vine
Mature Size 6 to 12 feet tall, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun; will tolerate some shade
Soil Type Any well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.2; prefers a fairly neutral pH
Bloom Time Midsummer until frost
Flower Color Red, with yellow or white throats
Hardiness Zones None; this plant is a true annual
Native Area None; this plant is a cultivated hybrid
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Cardinal Climber
Plant cardinal climber in any well-drained soil, in a full-sun location. It requires regular water but does not need to be fertilized unless the soil is poor. It is often planted from potted seedlings, but it can also be seeded directly into the soil, covering the seeds 1/4 inch deep. Space plants 6 to 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
You can sow seeds directly into the garden after danger of frost has passed, to a depth of 1/4 inch. Or, they can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of the winter/spring.
The seeds have a hard shell and germinate best if some type of scarification is done before planting. The easiest method is to soak them overnight. If you're really ambitious, you can rub them gently with some sandpaper and then soak them overnight. Seeds should germinate within 10 days. Give the young plants a regular weekly watering of at least 1 to 2 inches while getting established.
Light
Cardinal climber prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade.
Soil
This plant does well in any well-drained soil; it prefers a neutral pH.
Water
Cardinal climber will tolerate dry soil, but its parent species are tropical plants, and it grows best if kept moist. Make sure it gets at least 1 inch of water each week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Cardinal climber doesn't like prolonged periods of dryness.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant-like hot, humid weather for best growth; cool weather will cause it to grow slowly.
Fertilizer
This plant rarely needs feeding, unless the soil is very poor.
Propagation of Cardinal Climber
This is a hybrid that grows true from its seeds. You can allow the seed pods to dry on the plants and then collect the seeds to plant the following year.
Comparison With Cypress Vine and Morning Glory
Cardinal flower is a hybrid of cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit) and red morning glory (Ipomoea coccinea) and is sometimes confused with those plants since it shares characteristics of both. However, its leaves are distinctly different than the fine, feathery leaves of cypress vine and the heart-shaped leaves of morning glory.
Common Pests/ Diseases
In warmer climates, all members of the morning glory family (Ipomoea) can become aggressive self-seeders. So far, only the Arizona Department of Agriculture has banned their sale.
Cardinal climber is virtually pest-free. If the vines get too thick, they may attract whitefly. Insecticidal soap should control the problem.
Cardinal climber is often planted near a trellis or other structure that it can climb; it can also be used as a dense ground-cover. The delicate, lacy leaves form a peek-a-boo screen rather than blocking the view entirely. This makes them great for training over an arbor or trellis. They are also a good choice for softening a wall and adding an airy feeling.
Cardinal climber can also be grown in containers. Add support in the container for even more height. They look wonderful growing around an obelisk, in the center of other flowers.
Botanical Name Ipomoea × multifida
Common Name Cardinal climber
Plant Type Annual flowering vine
Mature Size 6 to 12 feet tall, 9- to 12-inch spread
Sun Exposure Full sun; will tolerate some shade
Soil Type Any well-drained soil
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.2; prefers a fairly neutral pH
Bloom Time Midsummer until frost
Flower Color Red, with yellow or white throats
Hardiness Zones None; this plant is a true annual
Native Area None; this plant is a cultivated hybrid
Toxicity Toxic to pets
How to Grow Cardinal Climber
Plant cardinal climber in any well-drained soil, in a full-sun location. It requires regular water but does not need to be fertilized unless the soil is poor. It is often planted from potted seedlings, but it can also be seeded directly into the soil, covering the seeds 1/4 inch deep. Space plants 6 to 12 inches apart.
Growing From Seeds
You can sow seeds directly into the garden after danger of frost has passed, to a depth of 1/4 inch. Or, they can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of the winter/spring.
The seeds have a hard shell and germinate best if some type of scarification is done before planting. The easiest method is to soak them overnight. If you're really ambitious, you can rub them gently with some sandpaper and then soak them overnight. Seeds should germinate within 10 days. Give the young plants a regular weekly watering of at least 1 to 2 inches while getting established.
Light
Cardinal climber prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade.
Soil
This plant does well in any well-drained soil; it prefers a neutral pH.
Water
Cardinal climber will tolerate dry soil, but its parent species are tropical plants, and it grows best if kept moist. Make sure it gets at least 1 inch of water each week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Cardinal climber doesn't like prolonged periods of dryness.
Temperature and Humidity
This plant-like hot, humid weather for best growth; cool weather will cause it to grow slowly.
Fertilizer
This plant rarely needs feeding, unless the soil is very poor.
Propagation of Cardinal Climber
This is a hybrid that grows true from its seeds. You can allow the seed pods to dry on the plants and then collect the seeds to plant the following year.
Comparison With Cypress Vine and Morning Glory
Cardinal flower is a hybrid of cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit) and red morning glory (Ipomoea coccinea) and is sometimes confused with those plants since it shares characteristics of both. However, its leaves are distinctly different than the fine, feathery leaves of cypress vine and the heart-shaped leaves of morning glory.
Common Pests/ Diseases
In warmer climates, all members of the morning glory family (Ipomoea) can become aggressive self-seeders. So far, only the Arizona Department of Agriculture has banned their sale.
Cardinal climber is virtually pest-free. If the vines get too thick, they may attract whitefly. Insecticidal soap should control the problem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月27日
Canterbury bells is a biennial that has been popular for many years in European and North American landscapes. It is a medium-sized specimen with an upright plant form. Its best feature is the numerous, bell-shaped flowers it produces.
Botanical Name Campanula medium
Common Name Canterbury bells, cups and saucers
Plant Type Biennial
Mature Size 20 to 26 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
to
partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained, and kept evenly moist
Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline
Bloom Time Early summer, on average
Flower Color Pink, white, purple, and blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8
Native Area Southern Europe
How to Grow Canterbury Bells
Indigenous to the Mediterranean climate of southern Europe, Canterbury bells do poorly in the humid climate of regions such as the southeastern United States but perform well in all but the coldest portions of the northern United States.
As a biennial, Canterbury bells takes two years to bloom, after which time it will die. The best way to grow a crop of them is to start them by seed. Here's how:
Sow the seed in a tray filled with potting soil in late winter.
Sprinkle a light covering of vermiculite over the seeds.
Using a spray bottle full of water, spray the vermiculite lightly to keep it evenly moist but not soggy.
Maintain a consistent temperature of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the seedlings emerge (three to four weeks), put the tray in a sunny window and keep the soil evenly moist.
In mid-spring, begin hardening off the seedlings.
Transplant the seedlings into the spot in the garden that you have selected for them once the danger of frost has passed.
You will have only leaves the first year. The next year, you will have flowers.
Light
Although it will survive in partial shade, Canterbury bells flower better when planted in full sun.
Soil
Mix compost into the ground where you plant your Canterbury bells. This will not only increase fertility but will also improve soil drainage.
Water
Water regularly during the growing season. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in late spring with a balanced fertilizer. Hose down the soil thoroughly afterward so that the fertilizer goes down to the roots.
Varieties of Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells come in a number of cultivars and seed mixes, including:
Campanula medium var. calycanthema alba: 24 to 36 inches tall; white flowers
Campanula medium Bells of Holland: 18 inches tall; pink, purple, or white flowers
Campanula medium Champion Pink: 2 feet tall; pink flowers
Campanula medium Dwarf Bella Mix: 14 inches tall; blue, lilac, pink, or white flowers
Campanula medium Double Melton Mix: 3 feet tall; flowers dark pink, light pink, or purple; double blooms
Common Pests/Diseases
Common pests and diseases include aphids, mites, slugs, snails, powdery mildew, and rust. Given the height of the plant, it is helpful to provide support by staking it.
The Bellflower Family
Canterbury bells is a member of the bellflower family, so-called for the bell shape of the flowers. Members of the family typically have "bell" in their common names, such as harebell (Campanula rotundifolia).
The Campanula genus is diverse, having not only upright plants such as Canterbury bells but also plants that behave more like ground covers. An example of the latter is Dalmatian bellflower (Campanula portenschlagiana). Such shorter plants are well suited for use in rock gardens.
North American gardeners interested in growing native plant gardens can use a Campanula native to their region. It is aptly named Campanula americana (the common name is tall bellflower). This herbaceous perennial reaches 3 to 6 feet in height and 1 to 2 feet in width and has blue flowers. Grow it in zones 4 to 7 in full sun to partial shade.
Landscape Uses for Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells are not known to be poisonous, either to people or to pets. It does well in containers. These facts make it a great choice when you need a plant to grow in an urn or whiskey barrel on a deck or a patio where kids will be playing or where pets will be basking in the sun.
More commonly, Canterbury bells are grown in flower beds, where its medium height makes it just about right for the second row in a bed of three rows, staggered according to height. It is also wonderful massed together in border plantings. It is a classic cottage garden plant.
Botanical Name Campanula medium
Common Name Canterbury bells, cups and saucers
Plant Type Biennial
Mature Size 20 to 26 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
to
partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-drained, and kept evenly moist
Soil pH Neutral to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline
Bloom Time Early summer, on average
Flower Color Pink, white, purple, and blue
Hardiness Zones 5 to 8
Native Area Southern Europe
How to Grow Canterbury Bells
Indigenous to the Mediterranean climate of southern Europe, Canterbury bells do poorly in the humid climate of regions such as the southeastern United States but perform well in all but the coldest portions of the northern United States.
As a biennial, Canterbury bells takes two years to bloom, after which time it will die. The best way to grow a crop of them is to start them by seed. Here's how:
Sow the seed in a tray filled with potting soil in late winter.
Sprinkle a light covering of vermiculite over the seeds.
Using a spray bottle full of water, spray the vermiculite lightly to keep it evenly moist but not soggy.
Maintain a consistent temperature of 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the seedlings emerge (three to four weeks), put the tray in a sunny window and keep the soil evenly moist.
In mid-spring, begin hardening off the seedlings.
Transplant the seedlings into the spot in the garden that you have selected for them once the danger of frost has passed.
You will have only leaves the first year. The next year, you will have flowers.
Light
Although it will survive in partial shade, Canterbury bells flower better when planted in full sun.
Soil
Mix compost into the ground where you plant your Canterbury bells. This will not only increase fertility but will also improve soil drainage.
Water
Water regularly during the growing season. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
Fertilizer
Fertilize in late spring with a balanced fertilizer. Hose down the soil thoroughly afterward so that the fertilizer goes down to the roots.
Varieties of Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells come in a number of cultivars and seed mixes, including:
Campanula medium var. calycanthema alba: 24 to 36 inches tall; white flowers
Campanula medium Bells of Holland: 18 inches tall; pink, purple, or white flowers
Campanula medium Champion Pink: 2 feet tall; pink flowers
Campanula medium Dwarf Bella Mix: 14 inches tall; blue, lilac, pink, or white flowers
Campanula medium Double Melton Mix: 3 feet tall; flowers dark pink, light pink, or purple; double blooms
Common Pests/Diseases
Common pests and diseases include aphids, mites, slugs, snails, powdery mildew, and rust. Given the height of the plant, it is helpful to provide support by staking it.
The Bellflower Family
Canterbury bells is a member of the bellflower family, so-called for the bell shape of the flowers. Members of the family typically have "bell" in their common names, such as harebell (Campanula rotundifolia).
The Campanula genus is diverse, having not only upright plants such as Canterbury bells but also plants that behave more like ground covers. An example of the latter is Dalmatian bellflower (Campanula portenschlagiana). Such shorter plants are well suited for use in rock gardens.
North American gardeners interested in growing native plant gardens can use a Campanula native to their region. It is aptly named Campanula americana (the common name is tall bellflower). This herbaceous perennial reaches 3 to 6 feet in height and 1 to 2 feet in width and has blue flowers. Grow it in zones 4 to 7 in full sun to partial shade.
Landscape Uses for Canterbury Bells
Canterbury bells are not known to be poisonous, either to people or to pets. It does well in containers. These facts make it a great choice when you need a plant to grow in an urn or whiskey barrel on a deck or a patio where kids will be playing or where pets will be basking in the sun.
More commonly, Canterbury bells are grown in flower beds, where its medium height makes it just about right for the second row in a bed of three rows, staggered according to height. It is also wonderful massed together in border plantings. It is a classic cottage garden plant.
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