文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月11日
Belladonna (Atropa bella-donna) is extremely toxic to toxic to humans,1 cats, dogs, and horses.2 It’s a plant that by no means should you ever plant it in your yard. Belladonna escaped its native areas in Eurasia and has naturalized in other parts of the world. It can be anywhere, almost. It is important to be able to identify belladonna and remove it promptly before it can cause any harm.
The botanical name of the genus already gives away how deadly the plant is. Atropa was named in the mid-1700s after Atropos, the Greek goddess who, as one of the three goddesses of fate and destiny, holds the shears to cut the thread of life. The common name and the species name, belladonna, comes from the Italian word for beautiful woman, “bella donna”. Ladies at the Venetian court used eye drops made of belladonna to dilate their pupils, viewed as a sign of special beauty at the time.
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Which Parts of Belladonna Are Toxic?
All parts of belladonna—leaves, flowers, fruits, and roots—are highly toxic.3
Belladonna is also highly toxic to dogs, cats, horses, and other domesticated animals. It is not toxic to birds and wildlife.
When honeybees feed on belladonna, the honey they produce can contain significant amounts of atropine, which also makes the honey toxic3—another compelling reason to remove belladonna promptly wherever it pops up.
How to Identify Belladonna
Belladonna is a tall, bushy, upright, perennial of the nightshade family. It grows three to four feet high and wide. As a perennial, it comes back every year.
The dark green leaves are oval and unevenly sized, ranging from three to ten inches in length. The leaves on the lower part of the plant are solitary, on the upper part of the plant, they grow in pairs.
Belladonna blooms for an extended period of time, from June through early September. The flowers are dull purple or lavender with a green tinge and distinctly bell-shaped. The flowers are located in the leaf axils, the angle between the leaf and the upper part of the stem. They are distinctly bell-shaped and have a mild floral scent.
The fruit, which ripen between late August and September, are black and shiny like a cherry. The berries are not evenly sized and can reach about three quarters of an inch in size. Once they ripen, the berries dry up quickly.
Due to their slight resemblance with wild edible berries, such as blueberries and blackberries, the purplish-black, sweet-tasting fruit of belladonna pose a particular risk of being ingested.
Where Does Belladonna Grow?
Belladonna is native to England through central and southern Europe, North Africa to Iran. In the United States, belladonna has been found in several states, including New York, Michigan, California, Oregon, and Washington. It often grows in wasteland and areas with disturbed soil such as dumps and quarries, and along roadsides.
How Does Belladonna Spread?
Belladonna spreads rapidly like a weed. The plant dies back during the winter and regrows in the spring from its thick, fleshy roots.
Birds that eat the seeds without any ill effects spread the plant to other locations in their droppings.
How to Get Rid of Belladonna from Your Yard
If you have positively identified belladonna in your yard, take all the necessary precautions to avoid skin contact. Wear long sleeves, long pants, boots, and gloves. If the plant is tall and there is the slightest risk that your face can get in contact with the plant, also wear goggles or a full-face respirator.
Dig out the plant with all its roots. Be thorough because belladonna regrows from any roots left in the soil. Safely dispose of the entire plant including its roots in the trash. Don’t forget to disinfect the tools you have been using for removing the plant—shovel, pruners etc. with bleach water (1 cup bleach per 1 gallon water). When cleaning the tools, wear waterproof gloves. Wash your clothes immediately and separately from other clothing.
If belladonna starts to regrow from residual roots, the most efficient chemical to use is a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate. Make sure to apply the herbicide when the shoots are still very small to minimize the use of herbicide and hit the plant before it can spread again.
The botanical name of the genus already gives away how deadly the plant is. Atropa was named in the mid-1700s after Atropos, the Greek goddess who, as one of the three goddesses of fate and destiny, holds the shears to cut the thread of life. The common name and the species name, belladonna, comes from the Italian word for beautiful woman, “bella donna”. Ladies at the Venetian court used eye drops made of belladonna to dilate their pupils, viewed as a sign of special beauty at the time.
FEATURED VIDEO
How to Remove Coffee Stains From Carpet
Which Parts of Belladonna Are Toxic?
All parts of belladonna—leaves, flowers, fruits, and roots—are highly toxic.3
Belladonna is also highly toxic to dogs, cats, horses, and other domesticated animals. It is not toxic to birds and wildlife.
When honeybees feed on belladonna, the honey they produce can contain significant amounts of atropine, which also makes the honey toxic3—another compelling reason to remove belladonna promptly wherever it pops up.
How to Identify Belladonna
Belladonna is a tall, bushy, upright, perennial of the nightshade family. It grows three to four feet high and wide. As a perennial, it comes back every year.
The dark green leaves are oval and unevenly sized, ranging from three to ten inches in length. The leaves on the lower part of the plant are solitary, on the upper part of the plant, they grow in pairs.
Belladonna blooms for an extended period of time, from June through early September. The flowers are dull purple or lavender with a green tinge and distinctly bell-shaped. The flowers are located in the leaf axils, the angle between the leaf and the upper part of the stem. They are distinctly bell-shaped and have a mild floral scent.
The fruit, which ripen between late August and September, are black and shiny like a cherry. The berries are not evenly sized and can reach about three quarters of an inch in size. Once they ripen, the berries dry up quickly.
Due to their slight resemblance with wild edible berries, such as blueberries and blackberries, the purplish-black, sweet-tasting fruit of belladonna pose a particular risk of being ingested.
Where Does Belladonna Grow?
Belladonna is native to England through central and southern Europe, North Africa to Iran. In the United States, belladonna has been found in several states, including New York, Michigan, California, Oregon, and Washington. It often grows in wasteland and areas with disturbed soil such as dumps and quarries, and along roadsides.
How Does Belladonna Spread?
Belladonna spreads rapidly like a weed. The plant dies back during the winter and regrows in the spring from its thick, fleshy roots.
Birds that eat the seeds without any ill effects spread the plant to other locations in their droppings.
How to Get Rid of Belladonna from Your Yard
If you have positively identified belladonna in your yard, take all the necessary precautions to avoid skin contact. Wear long sleeves, long pants, boots, and gloves. If the plant is tall and there is the slightest risk that your face can get in contact with the plant, also wear goggles or a full-face respirator.
Dig out the plant with all its roots. Be thorough because belladonna regrows from any roots left in the soil. Safely dispose of the entire plant including its roots in the trash. Don’t forget to disinfect the tools you have been using for removing the plant—shovel, pruners etc. with bleach water (1 cup bleach per 1 gallon water). When cleaning the tools, wear waterproof gloves. Wash your clothes immediately and separately from other clothing.
If belladonna starts to regrow from residual roots, the most efficient chemical to use is a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate. Make sure to apply the herbicide when the shoots are still very small to minimize the use of herbicide and hit the plant before it can spread again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月08日
The beet plant (Beta vulgaris) is a fast-growing vegetable that can be grown just about anywhere. Although beets are known as a root crop, all parts of the beet plant are edible. Tender beet greens can be harvested when thinning a row of beets, and mature leaves make good greens when it's time to pull up the whole plant. The most commonly known root beets are red, but golden and striped varieties are also available.
Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot
Botanical Name Beta vulgaris
Family Amaranthaceae
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Beets
When to Plant
When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest.
Selecting a Planting Site
Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.
Beet Plant Care
Light
Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade.
Soil
A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment.
Water
Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm.
Temperature and Humidity
Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions.
Pollination
Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor.
Types of Beets
'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing.
'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles.
'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling.
'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers.
Beets vs. Radishes
Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery.
Harvesting Beets
Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous.
Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking.
Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
How to Grow Beets in Pots
Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers.
Pruning
Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant.
Propagating Beets
Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how:
Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall).
Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window.
Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days.
Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks.
How to Grow Beets From Seed
The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up.
Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil.
Potting and Repotting Beets
A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots.
Overwintering
Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes.
Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides.
Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide.
Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed.
Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
Beets are a cool-season vegetable crop, so you might be able to get both an early crop planted in the spring as well as a crop planted in the summer or fall. Most beet varieties are ready to harvest about two months after planting.
Common Name Beet, beetroot
Botanical Name Beta vulgaris
Family Amaranthaceae
Plant Type Annual, vegetable
Size 12–18 in. tall, 18–24 in. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, part sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6.0–7.0)
Bloom Time Seasonal
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
How to Plant Beets
When to Plant
When planting in the spring, wait until the soil has warmed to at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit. You can sow successive plantings roughly every two to three weeks as long as the daytime temperature isn't above 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant your beets in the summer or fall, be sure to leave at least a month before your first expected frost from your last seeding. In warm climates, you might even be able to plant in the fall for a winter harvest.
Selecting a Planting Site
Beets are easy to grow from seed in the ground or in containers. They need a sunny spot with good soil drainage. Aim to plant them somewhere away from Swiss chard and spinach, as the plants are relatives susceptible to the same pest and disease issues.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Plant seeds about 1 to 2 inches apart, and space rows about a foot apart. The seeds should only be about 1/2 inch deep. When seedlings reach 3 to 4 inches tall, thin them to around 4 inches apart. A support structure won’t be necessary.
Beet Plant Care
Light
Beets prefer to grow in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, they can tolerate some light shade.
Soil
A light, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH is best. Rocks, clay, weeds, and anything else that can interfere with root development should be removed. Moreover, beets need boron in the soil to prevent black heart, a condition that causes deformed leaves and corky black spots on the roots. You can provide boron by using compost or seaweed extract as a soil amendment.
Water
Provide at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help to keep the soil from drying out and getting too warm.
Temperature and Humidity
Beets are not quite as cold-tolerant as some cool-season vegetables, such as broccoli, but they can tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 50 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal. Humidity also typically isn't an issue as long as proper soil moisture is maintained and there's air flow around the plants to help inhibit fungal growth.
Fertilizer
If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary starting about two weeks after the beets emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do, following label instructions.
Pollination
Beets are primarily pollinated by the wind, with flowers not appearing until the plant's second year as it completes its life cycle. As most gardeners grow beets as annuals, not biennials, pollination is not a factor.
Types of Beets
'Burpee Golden' beets have a beautiful yellow-orange color but are relatively temperamental when growing.
'Chioggia' is an heirloom beet with concentric red and white circles.
'Detroit Dark Red' is great for fresh eating or canning and pickling.
'Mini Ball' produces individual-sized beets and is great for growing in containers.
Beets vs. Radishes
Radishes and beets look like they could be varieties of one another. However, they are two entirely different species. While both are round and typically red or purple in color, beets are generally much larger than radishes. Beets also have a bumpier texture. Taste-wise, beets have a bittersweet, earthy flavor while radishes are more peppery.
Harvesting Beets
Beets take around 55 to 70 days after planting to mature. You can start harvesting beet greens once the plants reach around 3 to 4 inches tall. The greens are most tender before they reach 6 inches, and they can be eaten raw or cooked. Be sure to leave some leaves on the plants, as they’re necessary for root development. Beetroots are ready to harvest when they’re around 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Larger roots will be tougher and more fibrous.
Harvest the beetroots by loosening the soil and gently pulling them out. Leave at least 1 inch of the stem to avoid bleeding during cooking.
Beets are ideal root cellar vegetables and can be stored for three to four months packed in sand or sawdust in a cool, dry spot. Beets can also be canned, pickled, or frozen. Fresh beets will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
How to Grow Beets in Pots
Their compact growth habit makes beets a good choice for containers. And container growth is a good option if you don't have the garden space or the right soil conditions to successfully grow beets. The pot should be at least 12 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches wide across the top. Make sure it has holes in the bottom to provide good drainage. Small varieties of beets, including 'Mini Ball' and 'Baby Ball', do particularly well in containers.
Pruning
Pruning isn't necessary for beet plants beyond thinning seedlings and trimming off leaves as needed to eat. Also, trim off any broken leaves that are dragging on the ground, as they can introduce pests and diseases to the plant.
Propagating Beets
Beets are one of the many vegetables than can be propagated via scraps. This is an inexpensive, quick, and easy way to get a second harvest of leaves. However, you won’t get bulb regrowth from it. Here’s how:
Remove the leaves from the beet, and use them for cooking. Also, remove most of the beetroot, but save the top part (no more than a third of the beet overall).
Put the top part in a shallow dish of water with the cut side facing down. Place the dish by a sunny window.
Change the water every day or two. You should see new leaf growth in a few days.
Start harvesting leaves in about a week as needed. The beet will keep growing leaves for several weeks.
How to Grow Beets From Seed
The beet seeds that come in packets are really clumps of four to six seeds. You can plant the whole clump and thin the seedlings when they are a few inches tall, or you can try to separate the clumps into individual seeds before planting. The safest way to do this is to gently run a rolling pin over the clumps—but be careful not to crush the seeds. Most gardeners find it easier to simply thin the young greens. You can eat the thinned leaves in salads. To prevent damage to the roots of the plants staying in the ground, thin seedlings by cutting them at the soil line with scissors or shears; do not pull them up.
Beet seeds can be slow to germinate because of their tough outer shell. Soaking the seed clusters overnight will help to soften the shell and speed germination. Germination will take about a week in soil above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or up to three weeks in cooler soil.
Potting and Repotting Beets
A potting mix formulated especially for vegetables is ideal for beets. It's best to pot beets in a container that will accommodate their mature size to avoid having to repot. That way, you won't have to disturb the sensitive roots.
Overwintering
Beets are most commonly grown as annuals, so no overwintering is necessary. In zones 9 and above, they often can be grown over the winter months.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Many of the common problems with beets are shared by other root vegetables, such as potatoes. In addition to black heart, caused by a boron deficiency (described above), be on the lookout for:
Bacterial infections: A variety of soil bacteria can cause discolored spots on leaves, which can gradually infect the roots. Affected plants should be removed, and rotate crops the next season. Do not plant beets in garden space previously occupied by potatoes.
Viral infections: Various viruses, often transmitted by leafhopper insects, can cause twisted, distorted leaves. Combat viruses by planting resistant varieties and fighting leafhoppers with pesticides.
Fungal infections: Similar to bacteria, fungal infections cause small brown or gray spots to cover the leaves. To prevent, rotate crops every two to three years. At the first sign of infection, apply a fungicide.
Root rot: Usually caused by the Fusarium fungus, root rot causes the above-ground foliate to wilt, as though in need of water, while the underground roots begin to rot away. Root rot tends to appear in cycles; two or three disease-free years might be followed by a bad season where many plants are affected. Root rot can be minimized by keeping your garden weed-free and by avoiding overwatering. Affected plants should be removed.
Insect pests: Watch for leaf miners, leafhoppers, flea beetles, aphids, and caterpillars. Pests usually are identified by ragged holes left when they feed on leaves. Use an appropriate pesticide, or pick off pests by hand.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月30日
The black bat flower is an exotic looking, unusual plant that is somewhat difficult to grow, but rewarding for its unusual shape, texture and color in the garden. True to its common name, the bat flower looks like a bat with its wing shaped bracts and seed pods that look a bit like bat faces. It is an understory plant native to the forests of Asia and Australia, and grows best in a semi-tropical environment.
It is sometimes also referred to as tiger beard, due to its long bracteoles which look like whiskers. The purple variety is a dark dusky color that ranges from maroon to purple, but often looks black. There is also a white flowering variety (Tacca integrifolia) that grows twice as large as the black one. Dramatic in the garden, bat flowers do not really survive long in a vase and so aren't really useful as cut flowers. The bat flower will bloom from late spring through early fall with new blooms appearing repeatedly throughout the season.
Botanical Name Tacca chantrieri
Common Name Bat flower
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 36 inches tall, 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Partial sun to dappled shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.5
Bloom Time Late summer through fall
Flower Color Black (dark purple), white (Tacca integrifolia))
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11
Native Areas Asia, Australia
How to Grow Bat Flower
While this is a fairly tropical plant, it does do well in some parts of the United States, and can be grown successfully in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and parts of California, wherever a moist, warm environment can be found. It may be necessary to create a small micro climate that is hospitable to this somewhat delicate plant. The bat flower is generally not vulnerable to pests, other than the usual slugs and snails one finds in a tropical garden.
Light
The bat flower requires warm temperatures but prefers a shady location. Plant where it will get indirect light, on the north side of a house, preferably in a setting with additional tropical understory plants.
Soil
Bat flower needs a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Amending soil with peat moss, pine bark, and compost may prove necessary. For container growing, use a rich potting medium with 50 percent soil, 40 percent amendments and 10 percent sand for good drainage.
Water
After planting, keep the soil moist and water consistently. Bat flowers should not be allowed to dry out for too long. But make sure the planting location has good drainage.
Fertilizer
Black bat flowers benefit from fertilizing. Using a liquid fertilizer suitable for orchids is appropriate, applied every week, or use a general slow release fertilizer.
Temperature and Humidity
Since bat flowers are a semi-tropical plant, they do not withstand cold temperatures. If the temperature goes below 55F, bat flowers may die. They are happiest when the temperature is between 70 and 80 degrees. They can also be grown indoors but a consistently moist environment should be provided. Using a plant mister and having a humidifier will help ensure the bat flower gets the moisture it needs.
Propagating Bat Flower
The bat flower may be propagated from seeds that have been allowed to dry well, but they will take some time to germinate. Harvesting the seeds from the plant requires waiting until the seed pod has matured and split open. Bat flower can also be propagated from a tuberous root or rhizome cutting. Divide these rhizomes in the fall, and plant three feet apart. You can also order rhizomes from a catalog. Be patient when propagating, as the rhizomes need to reach a large enough size before they will form flowers.
Growing in Containers
It's possible to grow black bat flower in containers. If keeping them indoors, locate them near a window where the light is indirect. They also appreciate decent air circulation, as opposed to a closed greenhouse environment. Don't allow the plant to become root bound; keep an eye on it and repot into a bigger container as needed. Repotting once every year is a good rule of thumb. A wide shallow pot works best. You can put the containers outside in the summer, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight.
It is sometimes also referred to as tiger beard, due to its long bracteoles which look like whiskers. The purple variety is a dark dusky color that ranges from maroon to purple, but often looks black. There is also a white flowering variety (Tacca integrifolia) that grows twice as large as the black one. Dramatic in the garden, bat flowers do not really survive long in a vase and so aren't really useful as cut flowers. The bat flower will bloom from late spring through early fall with new blooms appearing repeatedly throughout the season.
Botanical Name Tacca chantrieri
Common Name Bat flower
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 36 inches tall, 12 inches wide
Sun Exposure Partial sun to dappled shade
Soil Type Fertile, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.5
Bloom Time Late summer through fall
Flower Color Black (dark purple), white (Tacca integrifolia))
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11
Native Areas Asia, Australia
How to Grow Bat Flower
While this is a fairly tropical plant, it does do well in some parts of the United States, and can be grown successfully in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and parts of California, wherever a moist, warm environment can be found. It may be necessary to create a small micro climate that is hospitable to this somewhat delicate plant. The bat flower is generally not vulnerable to pests, other than the usual slugs and snails one finds in a tropical garden.
Light
The bat flower requires warm temperatures but prefers a shady location. Plant where it will get indirect light, on the north side of a house, preferably in a setting with additional tropical understory plants.
Soil
Bat flower needs a rich, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Amending soil with peat moss, pine bark, and compost may prove necessary. For container growing, use a rich potting medium with 50 percent soil, 40 percent amendments and 10 percent sand for good drainage.
Water
After planting, keep the soil moist and water consistently. Bat flowers should not be allowed to dry out for too long. But make sure the planting location has good drainage.
Fertilizer
Black bat flowers benefit from fertilizing. Using a liquid fertilizer suitable for orchids is appropriate, applied every week, or use a general slow release fertilizer.
Temperature and Humidity
Since bat flowers are a semi-tropical plant, they do not withstand cold temperatures. If the temperature goes below 55F, bat flowers may die. They are happiest when the temperature is between 70 and 80 degrees. They can also be grown indoors but a consistently moist environment should be provided. Using a plant mister and having a humidifier will help ensure the bat flower gets the moisture it needs.
Propagating Bat Flower
The bat flower may be propagated from seeds that have been allowed to dry well, but they will take some time to germinate. Harvesting the seeds from the plant requires waiting until the seed pod has matured and split open. Bat flower can also be propagated from a tuberous root or rhizome cutting. Divide these rhizomes in the fall, and plant three feet apart. You can also order rhizomes from a catalog. Be patient when propagating, as the rhizomes need to reach a large enough size before they will form flowers.
Growing in Containers
It's possible to grow black bat flower in containers. If keeping them indoors, locate them near a window where the light is indirect. They also appreciate decent air circulation, as opposed to a closed greenhouse environment. Don't allow the plant to become root bound; keep an eye on it and repot into a bigger container as needed. Repotting once every year is a good rule of thumb. A wide shallow pot works best. You can put the containers outside in the summer, but avoid placing them in direct sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月28日
The baseball plant (Euphorbia obesa) is a succulent perennial that is native to the Cape Province of South Africa. Since its discovery during the late 1800s, baseball plants have exploded in popularity as houseplants due to their unique appearance and low-maintenance needs. Though baseball plants are actually considered an endangered species in their native habitat due to unsustainable harvesting, they can easily be found in garden centers. Today, national and international legislation that prohibits harvesting baseball plants has been enacted in an effort to protect the remaining native populations of baseball plants.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月22日
The common name bamboo is applied to over a thousand plant species. In the wild, several of these species can grow to towering heights of 50 feet or more. However, it is possible to grow certain types of bamboo in containers—even indoors. Golden bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) is one of those species. This bamboo features bright green upright canes that turn to a golden color with age and sunlight exposure. Its narrow, lance-shaped leaves grow in clusters on short stems off of the canes. The plant grows quickly and can easily spread throughout a garden if you let it. Thus, planting it in a pot is ideal to keep it contained. It won’t grow as large, but that means it will be much more manageable. It’s best planted in the spring or early fall, though indoors you generally can plant it any time of year.
Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea
Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Nonflowering
Flower Color Nonflowering
Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA)
Native Area China
Bamboo Care
Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth.
Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily.
Light
Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light.
Soil
This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants.
Water
Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering.
Temperature and Humidity
This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered.
Fertilizer
To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth.
Potting and Repotting Bamboo
When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes.
Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting.
Bamboo Varieties
There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including:
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
Botanical Name Phyllostachys aurea
Common Names Bamboo, golden bamboo, fishpole bamboo, monk’s belly bamboo, fairyland bamboo
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 15–30 ft. tall, 8–15 ft. wide (outdoors), 5–8 ft. tall, 2–4 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Nonflowering
Flower Color Nonflowering
Hardiness Zones 6–10 (USDA)
Native Area China
Bamboo Care
Bamboo is usually a low-maintenance, hardy plant. It rarely has issues with pests or diseases, and it typically doesn’t require pruning. You can remove old canes at their base if they begin to look unsightly. And you also can remove new shoots as they pop up from the soil if you want to limit your plant’s growth.
Regular watering and feeding will make up the bulk of your plant maintenance. To maintain the soil moisture bamboo likes, you might have to water your container plant more than once a week. But especially for an indoor plant where the climate doesn’t change drastically, you should be able to establish a predictable care routine fairly easily.
Light
Bamboo prefers a spot that gets full sun to partial shade. Too much shade can result in a weak plant that does not grow to its fullest potential or develop its brilliant color. Indoors, keep your bamboo by your brightest window, and rotate the pot every week or so to be sure all sides of the plant get light.
Soil
This plant can tolerate a variety of soil types, but it prefers organically rich soil with good drainage. A quality commercial potting mix should be fine for container plants.
Water
Bamboo has some drought tolerance once it’s established, and it can handle soggy soil for a short time. However, sitting in pooled water can ultimately rot the roots and kill the plant. The plant ideally should have evenly moist soil. Test the soil by sticking your finger an inch or two in it and watering whenever it feels dry. Never let the soil dry out completely. But during the winter months, slightly cut back on watering.
Temperature and Humidity
This species of bamboo is known for its cold tolerance. It can survive temperatures even around 5 degrees Fahrenheit for short amounts of time. However, cold weather can cause the plant to drop foliage and might eventually kill it. The plant will thrive in typical indoor temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it away from cold drafts, such as those from an air conditioner, as well as from drying heat vents. These plants prefer fairly humid air but can tolerate some indoor dryness as long as you keep them well watered.
Fertilizer
To maintain an optimal amount of nutrients in your container plant’s soil, feed your bamboo with a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month, following label instructions. It also can be helpful to mix some organic compost into the soil, especially in the spring, to promote healthy plant growth.
Potting and Repotting Bamboo
When starting with a small nursery bamboo plant, choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep. Pick a pot made from a heavy material to anchor the weight of the bamboo canes. You can even add some rocks or gravel to the bottom if you feel the container isn’t sturdy enough to anchor the plant’s weight. Also, make sure the container has ample drainage holes.
Place the root ball in the pot, and fill in around it with a loose, nutrient-rich potting mix. If you wish, mix in some compost at this time to encourage growth. Then, water the bamboo well.
You likely will have to move your bamboo to a larger pot every year or two once the roots have spread through the entire pot and you see them coming out the holes in the bottom or poking up out of the soil on top. Don’t allow your plant to remain in a pot that’s too small for it for very long, as it won’t be able to get enough nutrients to remain healthy. An indoor plant typically will do fine being repotted at any time of year, but at the start of the growing season in the spring when the plant is revving up its growth is generally the best time for repotting.
Bamboo Varieties
There are several varieties of Phyllostachys aurea, including:
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Flavescens Inversa’: Some lower sections of the canes of this variety can have a yellow stripe.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Holochrysa’: The canes of this variety often turn golden faster than others of the species.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’: This variety has canes that turn yellow with green stripes.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Takemurai’: This variety tends to grow larger than other plants of the species.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月06日
'Angelina' stonecrop (Sedum rupestre 'Angelina') is a perennial, evergreen plant with succulent foliage that forms a low-growing mat. The name "stonecrop" comes from Middle English and refers to the plant's ability to grow in rocky, gravelly areas. The 'Angelina' cultivar of S. rupestre features chartreuse or golden needle-like foliage, depending on how much sun it gets (more sun results in more golden leaves). It sports tiny yellow flowers throughout the summer. And in the fall, the foliage takes on an orange or rust tone.
Sunshine and good drainage are key to this plant's success. Because of its chartreuse or golden color, it looks especially good when combined with plants that have dark foliage. Mass the plants together for use as a ground cover or perennial border. 'Angelina' also makes for a nice rock garden plant and can be placed between stones in a retaining wall. It can also be planted in patio containers and hanging baskets.
'Angelina' is generally planted in the spring, but this tough plant can really be planted almost any time. It has a moderately fast growth rate, but it may take a year or two before it flowers.
Botanical Name Sedum rupestre 'Angelina'
Common Name Angelina stonecrop
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4–6 inches tall, 1– 3-feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, dry to medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
'Angelina' Stonecrop Care
Ideally, you should plant 'Angelina' in a full-sun location, in dry to medium-moisture soil that is well-drained. The plant has a good tolerance for gravelly or sandy soils. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread. 'Angelina' stonecrop is a fast-growing ground cover that stays short (around 6 inches tall) and quickly spreads to form a mat.
Once established, this plant requires little in the way of watering or feeding. Just make sure it doesn't sit in soggy soil. Like most stonecrops, 'Angelina' is relatively free of pest and disease problems, although slugs and snails may eat the foliage. Scale insects also sometimes appear.
Light
Grow 'Angelina' stonecrop in full sun if possible, though it will tolerate some shade. Its golden foliage will show best color if it is grown full sun.
Soil
This plant prefers a well-draining soil with a neutral pH. It does well in sandy and gravelly soils that aren’t very fertile. Its roots are shallow, but they’re able to spread through small crevices in rocky terrain.
Water
'Angelina' needs regular watering after you first plant it. But it is a drought-tolerant ground cover once established. Heavy clay soil or other waterlogged sites can kill the plant. However, plants grown in a container might need more frequent waterings than those planted in the ground.
Temperature and Humidity
Suitable for USDA zones 5 to 8, 'Angelina' stonecrop is somewhat tolerant to cold weather during the growing season. It can handle temperatures several degrees below freezing and still bounce back just fine. It also tolerates high heat and humidity well, as long as it’s not stuck in standing water.
Fertilizer
Stonecrop plants generally prefer lean soil, so fertilizer usually won't be necessary for this plant. Chemical fertilizer can cause 'Angelina' to stretch and flop. If your soil is lacking nutrients, consider using compost instead of chemical fertilizer
Related Stonecrop Varieties
There are several other varieties of stonecrop that are easy to grow in the garden:
Dragon's Blood sedum (Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'): This is another good groundcover plant, growing 3 to 5 inches tall with plentiful rose-red flowers.
Blue spruce stonecrop: (Sedum 'Blue Spruce'): This cultivar has bluish foliage that grows around 6 to 9 inches tall with a 1- to 1 1/2-foot spread. Small, star-shaped, yellow flowers emerge in June and July. It adapts to many soil conditions, as long as there is good drainage.
Purple emperor stonecrop (Sedum 'Purple Emperor’): This is a hybrid stonecrop with dark purple foliage. It grows upright at a little more than 1 foot in height and spread. And it sports tiny masses of pinkish-purple flowers from around July to September.
Autumn joy stonecrop (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude'): This stonecrop—no longer classified in the Sedum genus—also grows in average, well-draining soil with dry to medium moisture. It reaches around 18 to 24 inches in height and spread. And it features fall blooms that start out pink and gradually turn to a rose red.
Propagating 'Angelina' Stonecrop
'Angelina' stonecrop plants are easy to propagate by rooting. In fact, stems that break off from the main plant fall to the ground often root all by themselves. If you're looking for a plant that's well-behaved and doesn't spread into neighboring garden areas, this might not be the best choice for you.
To purposely propagate' Angelina', snip off a piece of stem 2 to 5 inches. Then, plant it in a well-draining potting mix and keep the soil moist while you’re waiting for roots to take hold. After around two to three weeks, you should feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, meaning it has rooted. At this point, it’s ready for planting in the garden. Propagating with this method usually is successful at any point during the growing season, thanks to the plant's hardiness, but it's best done in late spring or early summer.
Pruning
Most gardeners prune 'Angelina' stonecrop plants only if they feel the plants have become too large. Using hand pruners, simply trim off any overgrown stems from where you don’t want them to shape the plant. Also, remove any dead or diseased material whenever you spot it. Pruning typically can be done at any time of year without harming the plant. But as a precaution, avoid pruning during extreme hot or cold temperatures.
Furthermore, your plant might not bloom during its first year. But whenever it does bloom, it will produce clusters of star-shaped yellow flowers on tall stalks. These yellow flower clusters, which arise in the summer, are reasonably attractive. However, some gardeners find the flower stalks to be awkwardly tall. And once the blooms fade, you are left with rather ugly brown stalks, which you can prune whenever you like.
Sunshine and good drainage are key to this plant's success. Because of its chartreuse or golden color, it looks especially good when combined with plants that have dark foliage. Mass the plants together for use as a ground cover or perennial border. 'Angelina' also makes for a nice rock garden plant and can be placed between stones in a retaining wall. It can also be planted in patio containers and hanging baskets.
'Angelina' is generally planted in the spring, but this tough plant can really be planted almost any time. It has a moderately fast growth rate, but it may take a year or two before it flowers.
Botanical Name Sedum rupestre 'Angelina'
Common Name Angelina stonecrop
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 4–6 inches tall, 1– 3-feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Average, dry to medium moisture, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3 to 9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
'Angelina' Stonecrop Care
Ideally, you should plant 'Angelina' in a full-sun location, in dry to medium-moisture soil that is well-drained. The plant has a good tolerance for gravelly or sandy soils. Space the plants 8 to 12 inches apart, as they will quickly spread. 'Angelina' stonecrop is a fast-growing ground cover that stays short (around 6 inches tall) and quickly spreads to form a mat.
Once established, this plant requires little in the way of watering or feeding. Just make sure it doesn't sit in soggy soil. Like most stonecrops, 'Angelina' is relatively free of pest and disease problems, although slugs and snails may eat the foliage. Scale insects also sometimes appear.
Light
Grow 'Angelina' stonecrop in full sun if possible, though it will tolerate some shade. Its golden foliage will show best color if it is grown full sun.
Soil
This plant prefers a well-draining soil with a neutral pH. It does well in sandy and gravelly soils that aren’t very fertile. Its roots are shallow, but they’re able to spread through small crevices in rocky terrain.
Water
'Angelina' needs regular watering after you first plant it. But it is a drought-tolerant ground cover once established. Heavy clay soil or other waterlogged sites can kill the plant. However, plants grown in a container might need more frequent waterings than those planted in the ground.
Temperature and Humidity
Suitable for USDA zones 5 to 8, 'Angelina' stonecrop is somewhat tolerant to cold weather during the growing season. It can handle temperatures several degrees below freezing and still bounce back just fine. It also tolerates high heat and humidity well, as long as it’s not stuck in standing water.
Fertilizer
Stonecrop plants generally prefer lean soil, so fertilizer usually won't be necessary for this plant. Chemical fertilizer can cause 'Angelina' to stretch and flop. If your soil is lacking nutrients, consider using compost instead of chemical fertilizer
Related Stonecrop Varieties
There are several other varieties of stonecrop that are easy to grow in the garden:
Dragon's Blood sedum (Sedum spurium 'Fuldaglut'): This is another good groundcover plant, growing 3 to 5 inches tall with plentiful rose-red flowers.
Blue spruce stonecrop: (Sedum 'Blue Spruce'): This cultivar has bluish foliage that grows around 6 to 9 inches tall with a 1- to 1 1/2-foot spread. Small, star-shaped, yellow flowers emerge in June and July. It adapts to many soil conditions, as long as there is good drainage.
Purple emperor stonecrop (Sedum 'Purple Emperor’): This is a hybrid stonecrop with dark purple foliage. It grows upright at a little more than 1 foot in height and spread. And it sports tiny masses of pinkish-purple flowers from around July to September.
Autumn joy stonecrop (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude'): This stonecrop—no longer classified in the Sedum genus—also grows in average, well-draining soil with dry to medium moisture. It reaches around 18 to 24 inches in height and spread. And it features fall blooms that start out pink and gradually turn to a rose red.
Propagating 'Angelina' Stonecrop
'Angelina' stonecrop plants are easy to propagate by rooting. In fact, stems that break off from the main plant fall to the ground often root all by themselves. If you're looking for a plant that's well-behaved and doesn't spread into neighboring garden areas, this might not be the best choice for you.
To purposely propagate' Angelina', snip off a piece of stem 2 to 5 inches. Then, plant it in a well-draining potting mix and keep the soil moist while you’re waiting for roots to take hold. After around two to three weeks, you should feel resistance when you gently tug on the stem, meaning it has rooted. At this point, it’s ready for planting in the garden. Propagating with this method usually is successful at any point during the growing season, thanks to the plant's hardiness, but it's best done in late spring or early summer.
Pruning
Most gardeners prune 'Angelina' stonecrop plants only if they feel the plants have become too large. Using hand pruners, simply trim off any overgrown stems from where you don’t want them to shape the plant. Also, remove any dead or diseased material whenever you spot it. Pruning typically can be done at any time of year without harming the plant. But as a precaution, avoid pruning during extreme hot or cold temperatures.
Furthermore, your plant might not bloom during its first year. But whenever it does bloom, it will produce clusters of star-shaped yellow flowers on tall stalks. These yellow flower clusters, which arise in the summer, are reasonably attractive. However, some gardeners find the flower stalks to be awkwardly tall. And once the blooms fade, you are left with rather ugly brown stalks, which you can prune whenever you like.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年08月04日
Angel's trumpet (Datura inoxia), which also goes by the common name of pricklyburr, is a perennial flower that is native to warm climates. In cooler climates, it’s often grown as an annual. The plant has a small, shrub-like appearance, growing wider than it is tall. It features dark green, oval leaves that can reach up to 8 inches long and have a soft texture. And it blooms sporadically with fragrant, upward-facing, trumpet-shaped flowers in the summer and fall that can grow up to 7 inches long and 4 inches at their widest part.
The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate.
Botanical Name Datura inoxia
Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Angel's Trumpet Care
Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet.
There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them.
Light
Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers.
Soil
The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine.
Water
This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial.
Angel's Trumpet Varieties
There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including:
Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant.
Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods.
Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.
The plant is closely related to the Brugmansia genus, which also features trumpet-shaped flowers and uses the common name of angel’s trumpet. However, Brugmansia flowers are generally larger and last longer than Datura flowers. Angel’s trumpet should be planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed and the ground has warmed. The plant has a fairly rapid growth rate.
Botanical Name Datura inoxia
Common Names Angel’s trumpet, pricklyburr, downy thorn apple, desert thorn apple, Indian apple, moonflower, sacred datura
Plant Type Herbaceous, perennial
Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 3–6 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Summer, fall
Flower Color Cream, pink, lavender
Hardiness Zones 9–10 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America, South America
Toxicity Toxic to people and animals
Angel's Trumpet Care
Angel’s trumpet plants are fairly easy to care for. You can either purchase nursery plants in the spring or start seeds indoors roughly seven weeks before your area’s projected last frost date. Transplant young plants into the garden once spring temperatures are reliably warm. Be sure to space your plants at least a few feet apart to account for their mature size, as crowded angel’s trumpet plants often produce fewer blooms. Select a planting site that gets a lot of sunlight, a key to healthy growth for angel's trumpet.
There is no need to deadhead (remove spent blooms) your angel’s trumpet plant, but you can if you wish to keep the plant looking tidy and prevent it from self-seeding. Deadheading also can help to stretch out the plant’s overall blooming period. Pruning typically isn’t necessary, but you can lightly trim the plant at any point during the growing season to keep its shape neat and growth in check. Prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased stems as they arise. Angel’s trumpet usually doesn’t have any major issues with pests or diseases. But it can be afflicted by some common plant pests, including whiteflies, mealybugs, and spider mites. Treat any issues with an insecticide or a natural remedy as soon as you spot them.
Light
Angel’s trumpet does best growing in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. It can grow in partial shade, but this often will cause the plant to be leggier and produce fewer flowers.
Soil
The plant can survive in a variety of soil types. But it prefers a rich, loamy soil with sharp drainage. A neutral or slightly alkaline soil pH is best, and it can even tolerate very alkaline soil. For container plants, a loose all-purpose potting mix is generally fine.
Water
This flower has moderate moisture needs. During its first growing season, water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Standing water can lead to root rot on a plant. Mature plants have some drought tolerance but still prefer a weekly watering during spells without rainfall and/or during the warmest parts of the year. Water whenever the soil has dried out about an inch down. Reduce watering in the winter; only water to prevent the soil from completely drying out.
Temperature and Humidity
Angel’s trumpet prefers warm temperatures. It has good heat tolerance as long as its moisture needs are met. But it’s not very cold hardy, and frost and freezing temperatures can damage or kill it. Ideally it should be kept in temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity typically isn’t an issue for the plant with proper watering. It’s possible to bring angel’s trumpet indoors for the winter in areas outside of its growing zones. Place it by a bright window, and protect it from drafts. But many growers prefer simply to start new plants in the spring.
Fertilizer
If you have rich soil, supplemental fertilization might not be necessary. But if you need to give your plant a boost, feed it in the spring with a fertilizer made for flowering plants, following label instructions. Compost mixed into the soil in the spring can also be beneficial.
Angel's Trumpet Varieties
There are several other Datura species that also use the common name of angel’s trumpet, including:
Datura metel: This species is slightly more cold-tolerant than Datura inoxia but otherwise is very similar to the plant.
Datura ferox: Also known as the long-spined thorn apple, this species sports intimidatingly large spines on its seed pods.
Datura stramonium: Commonly called thorn apple or jimsonweed, this plant also is notable for its small, prickly seed capsules, as well as its trumpet-shaped flowers.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月27日
The American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a deciduous shrub that comes from North America. It is also known as the pie elder, American elder, black elderberry, elder-blow, sweet elder, or just elderberry. In late June, this fast-growing plant is covered with clusters of tiny white flowers that are followed by purplish-black fruit.
The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name American Elderberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 10–15 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–10
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks.
Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below.
Light
Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade.
Soil
The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost.
Fertilizer
Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests/Diseases
Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches.
Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring.
Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis
Common Name American Elderberry
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 10–15 feet
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 3–10
Native Area North America
Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked
American Elderberry Care
American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks.
Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below.
Light
Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade.
Soil
The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil.
Water
Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost.
Fertilizer
Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime.
American Elderberry Varieties
'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black
'Variegata': for foliage with variegation
'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves
'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagating American Elderberries
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately.
Potting and Repotting American Elderberries
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Common Pests/Diseases
Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches.
Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月17日
Pilea cadierei is an evergreen perennial in the nettle family that is commonly called the aluminum plant. One look at its leaves, which look like they have been dry brushed by someone let loose with a gallon of aluminum paint, and you will see where it gets its name. It is because of this startling color, which contrasts so well with the dark green foliage, that the plant is so prized.
The Aluminum plant was first introduced to the western world by famed French botanists Andres Guillaumin and François Gagnepain in 1928 while researching the flora of Vietnam, while it was still a colony of France. Named after countryman and fellow botanist, Father Léopold Michel Cadière, who was a famed missionary in what was called Indochina at the time.
The plant was finally introduced in the United States but did not become popular till the houseplant boom of the 1970s, where it has stayed a favorite ever since. It is no wonder why when you look at the silver streaks on each of its leaves. Plus, given the right growing conditions, it is a great plant for houseplant novices.
The Aluminum plant does occasionally flower, but the tiny white blooms are not ornamental. You will want to remove them as soon as they bloom to conserve energy for the impressive foliage growth. This plant does not get very large, twelve inches tall in a grouping cluster of stems. There is a dwarf cultivar available as well, called, Pilea cadierei ‘Minima’ which only reaches four inches in height. It does have a spreading habit.
Though it is most often used as a potted plant, it should be noted that Pilea cadierei can be used near ponds, especially in warmer areas. On the topic of water, you will sometimes see this species sold as an aquarium plant. You should avoid using it in aquariums, however. It is not a true aquatic plant and will die eventually. If it remains submerged it will make a mess, mean you need to clean your tank more frequently, and it isn't a good investment. If you want a plant for your fish’s house, buy a plant that is a true aquatic.
Botanical Name Pilea cadierei
Common Name Aluminum Plant, Watermelon Pilea
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1 - 2 ft
Sun Exposure At least four hours of indirect, sun a day
Soil Type Sandy soil mixture
Soil pH Slight acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Rarely blooms
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 9b-11, USA
Native Area North Africa
Toxicity Toxic for cats and dogs.
Aluminum Plant Care
The Aluminum plant is easy-to-care-for but can get picky when it comes to its growing conditions. That should not dissuade you from growing this amazing plant. The most common issue you may have is checking the plant for overly abundant root growth each spring. When you first purchase the plant, it is a good practice to transplant it into a larger pot than necessary. The aluminum plant’s roots will actually outgrow your pot and break through its container. Head this off the first year by potting larger, then each subsequent year by transplanting into an even larger pot.
Light
When growing the aluminum plant indoors make sure the plant receives bright, indirect light for at least four hours each day. You need to be certain it does not receive too much sun, as this will scorch the leaves, leading to browning. Outdoor plants should be planted in partial shade.
Soil
Choose a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. You do not need to worry about pH with an aluminum plant. The biggest concern is drainage. You want a very rich soil that can nourish the plant, retain moisture but also drain well. You are looking for the goldilocks of soil. A brand name moisture control potting mix is a good solution.
Water
When it is growing season over the spring and summer, evenly moist soil is recommended for this plant. A good rule to follow is if the top quarter inch is dry it is time to water your plant again. During the winter months, the aluminum plant will need less watering. An occasional misting will be beneficial as will a rock humidity tray.
Temperature and Humidity
If you live in a tropical zone in the US, USDA zones 11 and 12, you will be able to grow your aluminum plant outdoors. Otherwise, you will need to keep this plant as a house plant.
It likes humidity, so consider misting it occasionally and do not leave it near vents or heat sources that will wick moisture away from your plant. If you have a well-lit bathroom, this is an excellent home since there is a source of humidity from the shower.
Fertilizer
Like watering, you will want to adjust feeding as the seasons change. When in a growing season, you should fertilize this plant with a quality 5-5-5 water-soluble plant food monthly. During the winter months, it is not needed.
Is the Aluminum Plant Toxic?
The aluminum plant is toxic to our furry friends and can harm dogs and cats, so should be kept away from them. Indoor miniature greenhouses are great for keeping toxic house plants away from family pets.
The Aluminum plant was first introduced to the western world by famed French botanists Andres Guillaumin and François Gagnepain in 1928 while researching the flora of Vietnam, while it was still a colony of France. Named after countryman and fellow botanist, Father Léopold Michel Cadière, who was a famed missionary in what was called Indochina at the time.
The plant was finally introduced in the United States but did not become popular till the houseplant boom of the 1970s, where it has stayed a favorite ever since. It is no wonder why when you look at the silver streaks on each of its leaves. Plus, given the right growing conditions, it is a great plant for houseplant novices.
The Aluminum plant does occasionally flower, but the tiny white blooms are not ornamental. You will want to remove them as soon as they bloom to conserve energy for the impressive foliage growth. This plant does not get very large, twelve inches tall in a grouping cluster of stems. There is a dwarf cultivar available as well, called, Pilea cadierei ‘Minima’ which only reaches four inches in height. It does have a spreading habit.
Though it is most often used as a potted plant, it should be noted that Pilea cadierei can be used near ponds, especially in warmer areas. On the topic of water, you will sometimes see this species sold as an aquarium plant. You should avoid using it in aquariums, however. It is not a true aquatic plant and will die eventually. If it remains submerged it will make a mess, mean you need to clean your tank more frequently, and it isn't a good investment. If you want a plant for your fish’s house, buy a plant that is a true aquatic.
Botanical Name Pilea cadierei
Common Name Aluminum Plant, Watermelon Pilea
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 1 - 2 ft
Sun Exposure At least four hours of indirect, sun a day
Soil Type Sandy soil mixture
Soil pH Slight acidic to neutral
Bloom Time Rarely blooms
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones 9b-11, USA
Native Area North Africa
Toxicity Toxic for cats and dogs.
Aluminum Plant Care
The Aluminum plant is easy-to-care-for but can get picky when it comes to its growing conditions. That should not dissuade you from growing this amazing plant. The most common issue you may have is checking the plant for overly abundant root growth each spring. When you first purchase the plant, it is a good practice to transplant it into a larger pot than necessary. The aluminum plant’s roots will actually outgrow your pot and break through its container. Head this off the first year by potting larger, then each subsequent year by transplanting into an even larger pot.
Light
When growing the aluminum plant indoors make sure the plant receives bright, indirect light for at least four hours each day. You need to be certain it does not receive too much sun, as this will scorch the leaves, leading to browning. Outdoor plants should be planted in partial shade.
Soil
Choose a well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. You do not need to worry about pH with an aluminum plant. The biggest concern is drainage. You want a very rich soil that can nourish the plant, retain moisture but also drain well. You are looking for the goldilocks of soil. A brand name moisture control potting mix is a good solution.
Water
When it is growing season over the spring and summer, evenly moist soil is recommended for this plant. A good rule to follow is if the top quarter inch is dry it is time to water your plant again. During the winter months, the aluminum plant will need less watering. An occasional misting will be beneficial as will a rock humidity tray.
Temperature and Humidity
If you live in a tropical zone in the US, USDA zones 11 and 12, you will be able to grow your aluminum plant outdoors. Otherwise, you will need to keep this plant as a house plant.
It likes humidity, so consider misting it occasionally and do not leave it near vents or heat sources that will wick moisture away from your plant. If you have a well-lit bathroom, this is an excellent home since there is a source of humidity from the shower.
Fertilizer
Like watering, you will want to adjust feeding as the seasons change. When in a growing season, you should fertilize this plant with a quality 5-5-5 water-soluble plant food monthly. During the winter months, it is not needed.
Is the Aluminum Plant Toxic?
The aluminum plant is toxic to our furry friends and can harm dogs and cats, so should be kept away from them. Indoor miniature greenhouses are great for keeping toxic house plants away from family pets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月09日
Tillandsia stricta is a common species in the air plant family, but this doesn’t make them any less special. Their versatility makes them a popular choice, and their vibrant blooms make them a beautiful addition to your home.
This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black.
Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South America
Tillandsia Stricta Care
The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right.
Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years.
Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants.
Light
Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage.
Soil
The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant.
Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless.
If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant.
Water
Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes.
If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot.
Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate.
If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot.
In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so.
As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any.
If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta
Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how:
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant.
3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
This air plant comes in many different varieties, meaning there are a plethora of looks to choose from. Some varieties have soft leaves while others have hard. In addition to foliage structure, Tillandsia stricta plants also vary in color. Many are different tones of green, but there is also a variety with foliage so dark it is almost black.
Their flowers may be red, pink, blue, or purple. Interestingly, the actual flower only lasts one day when it blooms. However, the beautiful bracts that these flower sprout from will remain colorful and attractive for weeks.
Botanical Name Tillandsia stricta
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 to 12 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, pink, blue, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area South America
Tillandsia Stricta Care
The Tillandsia stricta is a hardy, low-maintenance specimen to add to your houseplant collection. They don't need soil and the key to their care if getting their watering and airflow right.
Eventually, your plant may reward you with its beautiful, vibrant blooms. This only happens when your plant reaches maturity, which may take years.
Occasionally, pests like mealybugs and scale may infect these plants.
Light
Most air plants thrive in bright, indirect light and the Tillandsia stricta is no exception. Place them in an area that receives bright sunlight from a window, but avoid positioning them directly on the windowsill. Too much direct sun can burn its foliage.
Soil
The fun thing about air plants is that they need air, not soil. Steer away from the temptation to place it in soil or moss just for looks. This can lead to rot and can kill your air plant.
Instead, embrace this soil-less plant and place it just about anywhere with good airflow. This could be sitting on a table or desk, hanging from the wall or ceiling, in a seashell, attached to a picture frame; the possibilities are endless.
If you would like to put it somewhere that needs a little extra support to keep it put, try fishing line, wire, or even a dab of glue. Just stay clear of copper or superglue, because these will kill your plant.
Water
Since your Tillandsia stricta has no soil to water, these plants need to go for a swim to get all the hydration they need. To do this, submerge your air plant in a bowl of clean water and let it soak it for 10 to 30 minutes.
If your Tillandsia stricta is sporting a flower at the time, be sure to keep the delicate flower out of the water to prevent damage. When finished soaking, remove your plant from the water and shake out any excess water hiding in the leaves. Check your plant after a couple of hours to ensure that it is completely dried off. If water sits too long in the leaves and core of the plant, it can cause rot.
Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best when watering your air plant. Steer away from tap water if you can, but if you must, be sure to let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it. This allows the chlorine commonly found in tap water to dissipate.
If you live in an area where you can grow Tillandsia stricta outside, placing it where it can receive natural rain is a great option. This will water your plant naturally and may eliminate the need to soak them as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Between these larger soaks, your Tillandsia stricta will thank you if you give it regular misting. This gives it the humidity and moisture it likes without overwhelming it or causing rot.
In hotter or drier climates, it would do good to mist your air plant every day. If you live in a more humid climate, you may only need to mist every three days or so.
As for temperature, most air plants do well in hot climates. However, they can handle anywhere from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit just fine. Though they are hardy, keep your Tillandsia stricta away from AC or heating units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage or kill your plant.
Fertilizer
Fertilizer can help create a healthy, happy air plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production. However, your Tillandsia stricta does not require fertilizer and will grow just fine without any.
If given too much fertilizer, your plant can be burned or even die. If you would like to encourage more growth, fertilize once a month using a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer. These are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed through the roots of a plant, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilizer is especially helpful when your Tillandsia stricta is blooming.
Propagating Tillandsia Stricta
Propagating your Tillandsia stricta is simple and an exciting way to take your plant cultivation hobby to the next level. When it is mature, your plant will produce pups at its base. These baby air plants are easily removed. Here is how:
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Identify where the pup is attached to the plant.
3. Carefully pop the pup off the mother plant with a gentle twist. To avoid damaging the new plant, grip the pup at the base and not from the top. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim it from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so don’t get discouraged if you don’t see any. With proper care, your Tillandsia strict will reward you with bright blooms and pups in time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月07日
No potting soil? No problem. You don’t need soil to keep your home full of gorgeous houseplants. Meet Tillandsia kolbii, a variety of air plant.
These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them.
The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 1 to 3 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, orange, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA
Native Area Mexico and Guatemala
Tillandsia Kolbii Care
Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid.
With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years.
Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems.
Light
Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress.
Soil
The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil.
Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor.
Water
Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it.
Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot.
Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so.
These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal.
Fertilizer
Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best.
However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii.
Propagating Tillandsia kolbii
Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them.
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Locate the base of the pup.
3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
These plants actual absorb nutrients and water through their leaves, not their roots. Because of this, they don’t have big root systems like the usual houseplant. These plants can be set wherever you’d like a little greenery, no pot needed. In fact, you can even hang them.
The Tillandsia kolbii has compact, fuzzy leaves that are a soft green color. With proper care, they may also produce beautiful, unique blooms in red, orange, or purple.
Botanical Name Tillandsia kolbii
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 1 to 3 inches
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color Red, orange, or purple
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, USA
Native Area Mexico and Guatemala
Tillandsia Kolbii Care
Caring for these plants is a breeze. Choose an area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow to keep your Tillandsia kolbii the happiest. The biggest thing they require is regular watering. How do you water a plant with no soil, you may ask? Regular misting is a wonderful way to keep your plants humid.
With proper attention and care, your Tillandsia kolbii may even bloom. These amazing little plants only bloom once in their lifetime, and the process may take years.
Once they are mature, they will produce pups. These are new little air plants that will pop out of the base of the mother plant. You can either leave these attached so they slowly grow a huge connected colony of air plants, or remove them to create more plants to spread around. Occasionally, mealybugs and scale may pose pest problems.
Light
Tillandsia kolbii, like most air plants, loves bright, indirect lighting. Despite being native to Mexico and Guatemala, too much sunshine can actually harm or burn the plant. Signs of too much sun include burn marks or red-tipped leaves. The red coloring is caused by stress.
Soil
The name “air plants” has become a popular way to describe plants belonging to the Tillandsia family because they don't need to be grown in soil.
Instead, just set your Tillandsia kolbii wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Whether that be your desk, atop a decorative piece of driftwood, or even in a hanging terrarium. In warm areas, these plants can even be grown outside and make a wonderful addition to your porch décor.
Water
Unlike most houseplants, the Tillandsia kolbii cannot be watered in the usual fashion. To give your air plant the water it needs, soak it in a bowl of water for 10 to 30 minutes every week or two. If your air plant is blooming, be sure to keep the delicate flower above the water during a soak to avoid damaging it.
Once you remove your air plant from the water, tip it upside-down to let the excess water drain from its foliage, and then return it to its display area. Let your air plant dry completely before the next soaking session. This will help avoid problems with rot.
Make sure to use clean water, like spring or filtered water. If you must use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia kolbii loves humidity. Regularly misting it will provide the humidity and moisture that it needs. In drier areas, you may need to mist your air plant daily. In more humid areas, you may only need to mist it every three days or so.
These plants also love warmer temperatures. However, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. Too much heat or cold can damage the plants. Placing them in a well-ventilated area with bright indirect sunlight is ideal.
Fertilizer
Because air plants do not have soil, you will need to fertilize during their monthly soak by adding it to the water. Using a fertilizer designed for air plants is best.
However, fertilizer is not a huge need for these little plants. They will grow wonderfully even without additional feeding. Too much fertilizer can even kill your Tillandsia kolbii.
Propagating Tillandsia kolbii
Propagating an air plant is fun and easy. In fact, your air plant will tell you when. These plants create what are known as “pups” once they are mature. These pups are new air plants. Once your Tillandsia kolbii is mature and producing pups, here is how to remove them.
1. Wait until your pup is at least a third of the size of the mother plant.
2. Locate the base of the pup.
3. Gently pop the pup off the mother plant. Be sure to grip the pup at its base leaves so no tearing occurs on its top leaves. If the pup does not easily pop off, a sharp knife or pair of snips may be needed to trim the pup from the mother.
4. Once the pup is detached, place it in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Before you know it, you’ll have a whole family of air plants. Don’t be discouraged if you do not see pups for some time, though. Air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups. Patience is key.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月05日
Distribution and habitat: Euphorbia milii is a species of flowering plant in the spurge family Euphorbiaciae, native to Madagascar. It is a succulent climbing shrub with densely spiny stems. The straight, slender spines help Euphorbia milii scramble over other plants. The leaves are found mainly on new growth and are obovate. The flowers are small, subtended by a pair of conspicuous petal-like bracts, variably red, pink or white.
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Euphorbia milii is a dense shrub up to a metre (3 feet) or so tall, it has 2cm (0.8 inch) tick dark brown stems armed on all sided and at frequent intervals with sharp spines of varying length (mostly around 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch)).
Clusters of bright green, elliptic, 5-6cm (2-2.4 inch) leaves, which are produced near the growing tips of the stems, last for at least several months before dropping off, leaving the plant’s spiny stems permanently bare. Old leaves are not replaced and new ones will appear only on new terminal growth.
The flowers are tiny, but each is surrounded by a pair of 2cm kidney-shaped, bright red bracts, which look rather like petals. Clusters of from two to six of these paired, flower-like bracts appear on 5cm (2 inch) stalk at the ends of actively growing spiny stems. They are not produced on the old stems. A sticky substance on the flower stalks adheres to the finger if touched. The main flowering season normally last from early spring through late summer, but flowering can be continuous if plants get exceptionally good light.
Houseplant care: Euphorbia milii does not require too much care but as Euphorbia milii is one of the spiniest plants, be particularly careful when handling the plant.
Euphorbia milii is not fast growing, so pruning is usually not necessary until the second or third year. Pruning is best done during cool, dry weather in late spring to lessen the risk of stem disease. Remove only dead and overly tangled stems.
Light: Euphorbia milii needs all the sun it can get. The brighter and more constant sunlight, the longer its flowering season will be.
Temperature: Warm rooms and dry air normally suit these plants, through they can, if necessary, tolerate temperature as low as 13°C (55°F). If the air becomes any cooler, the leaves are likely to begin falling prematurely.
Watering: Water plants grown in normal room temperatures moderately, enough to make the entire potting mixture moist, but allowing the top couple of centimetres (0.8 inch) of the mixture to dry out between waterings. After the main flowering season ends, give to plant a little less water; and if the temperature fall below 16°C (61°F) for long time, let the top half of the mixture dry out between waterings. Never let the roots to dry out completely as dry roots can cause premature leaf-fail.
Fertilising: Apply week liquid fertiliser every two weeks from the late spring to early autumn. If plants are in such an ideal condition that they will continue to flower during the winter, feed them once a month.
Potting and repotting: Use a combination of two-thirds of soil-based potting mixture and one third of coarse sand or perlite for good drainage. Move the plants into pots one size larger in early spring every second year. Older plants which have reached maximum convenient pot size should be top-dressed annually with fresh potting mixture. It is essential to pack the mixture firmily around the roots of the plant when potting Euphorbia milii.
Gardening: When grow Euphorbia milii outdoors, choose a sunny, well-drained planting site. This plant will tolerate a few hours of shade during the hottest part of the day but does require sunshine for at least two-thirds of the day. Soil drainage must be excellent or the plant will develop root rot, fatal for plant. Add soil amendments, such as compost or peat moss, if the soil is sandy or of poor quality.
Dig a hole for each plant as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. Space plants 0.5m (2 feet) apart to ensure proper air circulation. Carefully remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any broken, shriveled or mushy roots, then gently loosen the soil around the outside of the root ball with the fingers. Set the plant into the planting hole at the same level as it was in the container. Backfill around the roots with soil, pressing firmly with the hands to remove air pockets. Water around the base of the plant to settle the soil; keep water off the foliage.
Water newly planted Euphorbia milii often enough to keep the soil slightly moist. The plant has established itself when it start new growth. At that point, water Euphorbia milii only when the top 3cm (1 inch) of soil is dry.
Propagation: New plants can be raised from short tip cuttings taken in spring or early summer. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut off growing tips 8-10cm (3-4 inch) long and stop the latex flow immediately by spaying the old plant and dipping the cuttings in water. Allow the cuttings to dry out for a day before setting them in small pots containing a slightly moist equal-parts mixture of peat moss and sand or perlite.
It is important not to let the mixture become more than slightly moist; if the potting mixture is too wet, the cuttings will rot before they can produce roots. Place the pots where they can get bright light but without direct sunlight, at normal room temperature. Keep the potting mixture just barely moist, allowing the top two-thirds to dry out between waterings. When rooting occurs (in five to eight weeks), move the young plants into the standard soil-based potting mixture and treat them as mature specimens after they have made around 5cm (2 inch) of top growth.
Problems: Euphorbia milii is generally trouble-free.
The plants will survive drought conditions, though under extreme drought leaves will drop permanently.
Stems that are cold-damaged (soft stems with burned leaves) are likely to rot and should be removed as soon as the damage is evident. Plants should be protected from freezing temperatures.
Uses: Euphorbia milii easily develops a hanging habit and is grown in window boxes or terrace planters. The attraction is the bright scarlet-bract flowers which may appear all year.
Both salt and drought-tolerant, Euphorbia milii is a valuable addition to tropical gardens.
Toxicity: The sap of Euphorbia milii can irritate the sensitive skin; that of some species is poisonous and acrid and it is therefor advisable to place the Euphorbia milii where they are unlikely to be knocked and out of the reach of young children.
Recommended varieties:
Euphorbia milii var. hislopii has tick stems armed with 2cm (0.8 inch) long spines; its lance-shaped leaves are 2cm (0.8 inch) long and its red or pink bracts are up to 2cm (0.8 inch) across.
Euphorbia milii var. splendens differ from the species in that it can grow 2m tall, its stem are 1-2cm thick and its leaves are more oblong in shape than those of Euphorbia milii.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – upright
Height: 1m (3 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – moderately
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 13°C max 24°C (55-75°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年07月03日
Looking for an air plant to really make a statement? The Tillandsia cacticola may just be the perfect, eye-catching addition. This tillandsia species is rare and only found in the high altitudes of Peru. They can be seen clinging to rocks or cacti, and are distinguished by their light, sage green foliage.
These air plants are covered in tiny hairs, making their leaves soft in texture. The Tillandsia cacticola grows upwards along a tall stem, sending its sprawling foliage outward to make a wild, beautiful display.
When these air plants bloom, they create tall white or lavender blooms sure to stand out among your plants. These blooms are long-lasting and may stick around for months on end.
Botanical Name Tillandsia cacticola
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 inches tall and 6 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light to full sun
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color White or lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Peru
Tillandsia Cacticola Care
The Tillandsia cacticola makes an easy and unique addition to almost any area of your home, inside or out. Since the Tillandsia cacticola is an air plant, it needs no soil and can be placed in a variety of locations. An area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow would make the perfect place for your air plant.
Though intimidating at first, caring for these soil-less plants is actually very easy. The biggest thing they require is regular watering.
With patience and care, your Tillandsia cacticola can even bloom. This process may take years to achieve, but their one-time display is worth the wait.
Once these plants are mature, they will produce pups or new air plants. Once these appear, you can gently remove them to create more air plants. Removing them is not necessary, though. You can also leave them attached and slowly grow one large clump of air plants.
Common pests include mealybugs and scale.
Light
Tillandsia cacticola love bright, indirect lighting. This variety can tolerate and enjoy even more direct sunshine than most air plants. This is due to its many tiny hairs, or trichomes, on its foliage.
Soil
Air plants need no soil at all. In fact, they require good airflow. Placing their base in soil or moss will restrict airflow and keep them too moist.
Since no pot is needed, you can set your Tillandsia cacticola wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Placing them in seashells, a decorative piece of wood, or in hanging terrariums all make wonderful options.
Water
The Tillandsia cacticola is more drought-resistant than other air plants. Even so, these plants still need a good soak every week. A good indicator to look for is curling leaves. This is a sign that your Tillandsia cacticola needs a drink.
When this occurs, submerge your plant in a bowl of water and leave it for 10 to 30 minutes. If your plant is in bloom, keep the delicate flower above the water to prevent damage.
Once your air plant is done soaking remove from the water and shake out any excess water pooling in the leaves. Be sure that your air plant dries completely in a couple of hours to prevent rot. Also, ensure that your water is clean when soaking your Tillandsia cacticola. Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to reduce chlorine levels.
If you are growing this plant outside, placing it in an area where it will receive natural rain may eliminate the need to soak as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia cacticola, although being more drought resistant, still loves a healthy dose of humidity. A regular schedule of misting will give it the additional moisture that it needs. If your Tillandsia cacticola is in a very dry, hot climate you may need to mist daily. In humid environments, every four to five days will do.
These plants do well in hot climates. However, if kept inside, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage the plants. Your Tillandsia cacticola will appreciate being in an area with good airflow and ventilation.
Fertilizer
Regular fertilizing is not necessary for your Tillandsia cacticola to survive. In fact, too much fertilizer can burn and kill air plants. However, the proper fertilizer given in the right amounts can contribute to a healthy, happy plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production.
Be sure to use a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer since these are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed from the soil through the plant’s roots, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilize once a month for the best results, especially if you see your Tillandsia cacticola beginning to bloom.
Propagating Tillandsia Cacticola
Propagating Tillandsia cacticola is simple. However, this variety of air plants is not as prolific as others, so you may only see one or two pups once it is mature. Once you see these pups, you can easily remove them to create more air plants. Here is how:
1. When the pup is at least a third the size of the parent plant, it is mature enough to separate.
2. Identify the pup's base, where it is attached to the parent plant.
3. Gently separate the pup off the parent plant. Aim to pull the pup from its base leaves so you don't damage the top leaves. You may need to use a sharp knife or scissors if the pup doesn't easily detach.
4. Once the pup is separated, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Keep in mind that air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so you may need to cultivate Tillandisa cacticola for some time before propagation.
These air plants are covered in tiny hairs, making their leaves soft in texture. The Tillandsia cacticola grows upwards along a tall stem, sending its sprawling foliage outward to make a wild, beautiful display.
When these air plants bloom, they create tall white or lavender blooms sure to stand out among your plants. These blooms are long-lasting and may stick around for months on end.
Botanical Name Tillandsia cacticola
Common Name Air plant
Plant Type Houseplant or annual
Mature Size 6 inches tall and 6 to 18 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light to full sun
Soil Type Not applicable
Soil pH Not applicable
Bloom Time Once, when fully matured
Flower Color White or lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Peru
Tillandsia Cacticola Care
The Tillandsia cacticola makes an easy and unique addition to almost any area of your home, inside or out. Since the Tillandsia cacticola is an air plant, it needs no soil and can be placed in a variety of locations. An area with bright, indirect lighting and good airflow would make the perfect place for your air plant.
Though intimidating at first, caring for these soil-less plants is actually very easy. The biggest thing they require is regular watering.
With patience and care, your Tillandsia cacticola can even bloom. This process may take years to achieve, but their one-time display is worth the wait.
Once these plants are mature, they will produce pups or new air plants. Once these appear, you can gently remove them to create more air plants. Removing them is not necessary, though. You can also leave them attached and slowly grow one large clump of air plants.
Common pests include mealybugs and scale.
Light
Tillandsia cacticola love bright, indirect lighting. This variety can tolerate and enjoy even more direct sunshine than most air plants. This is due to its many tiny hairs, or trichomes, on its foliage.
Soil
Air plants need no soil at all. In fact, they require good airflow. Placing their base in soil or moss will restrict airflow and keep them too moist.
Since no pot is needed, you can set your Tillandsia cacticola wherever you’d like to add a little greenery. Placing them in seashells, a decorative piece of wood, or in hanging terrariums all make wonderful options.
Water
The Tillandsia cacticola is more drought-resistant than other air plants. Even so, these plants still need a good soak every week. A good indicator to look for is curling leaves. This is a sign that your Tillandsia cacticola needs a drink.
When this occurs, submerge your plant in a bowl of water and leave it for 10 to 30 minutes. If your plant is in bloom, keep the delicate flower above the water to prevent damage.
Once your air plant is done soaking remove from the water and shake out any excess water pooling in the leaves. Be sure that your air plant dries completely in a couple of hours to prevent rot. Also, ensure that your water is clean when soaking your Tillandsia cacticola. Springwater, filtered water, or rainwater are best. If you have to use tap water, let it sit for at least 24 hours to reduce chlorine levels.
If you are growing this plant outside, placing it in an area where it will receive natural rain may eliminate the need to soak as often.
Temperature and Humidity
Tillandsia cacticola, although being more drought resistant, still loves a healthy dose of humidity. A regular schedule of misting will give it the additional moisture that it needs. If your Tillandsia cacticola is in a very dry, hot climate you may need to mist daily. In humid environments, every four to five days will do.
These plants do well in hot climates. However, if kept inside, avoid placing them near heating or AC units. The intense heat or cold from these units can damage the plants. Your Tillandsia cacticola will appreciate being in an area with good airflow and ventilation.
Fertilizer
Regular fertilizing is not necessary for your Tillandsia cacticola to survive. In fact, too much fertilizer can burn and kill air plants. However, the proper fertilizer given in the right amounts can contribute to a healthy, happy plant and may encourage blooming, growth, and pup production.
Be sure to use a Bromeliad or Tillandsia fertilizer since these are designed to be absorbed through the leaves. Common fertilizer is meant to be absorbed from the soil through the plant’s roots, which is not how air plants receive their nutrients. Fertilize once a month for the best results, especially if you see your Tillandsia cacticola beginning to bloom.
Propagating Tillandsia Cacticola
Propagating Tillandsia cacticola is simple. However, this variety of air plants is not as prolific as others, so you may only see one or two pups once it is mature. Once you see these pups, you can easily remove them to create more air plants. Here is how:
1. When the pup is at least a third the size of the parent plant, it is mature enough to separate.
2. Identify the pup's base, where it is attached to the parent plant.
3. Gently separate the pup off the parent plant. Aim to pull the pup from its base leaves so you don't damage the top leaves. You may need to use a sharp knife or scissors if the pup doesn't easily detach.
4. Once the pup is separated, place in a well ventilated, bright spot of its own.
Keep in mind that air plants can take years to bloom and produce pups, so you may need to cultivate Tillandisa cacticola for some time before propagation.
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