文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
A winter garden fills the kitchen with healthy vegetables just when the weather turns cold. Planting a variety of veggies, from broccoli to beets, in August gives the seedlings time to establish themselves in the garden. As the weather cools and frost spreads over the garden, the leaves and roots of many cool-season vegetables become sweeter and tastier.
Cabbage Family
Members of the cabbage family (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae Family) are cool-weather vegetables that thrive in both early spring and late fall until frost. Depending on the species, these vegetables are also grown through the winter in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 10. While most of the Brassicas are biennials, they are grown as annuals in the garden and harvested before they flower. Broccoli and cauliflower are exceptions; they are harvested after the flower heads appear, but while they are still immature, before they burst into bloom.
Brassica seedlings are set out in the garden in August for a fall or winter harvest. If the weather is still hot, protect the seedlings from the afternoon sun with shade cloth or sheets suspended on bamboo poles. As the hardiest of the cool-season vegetables, most Brassicas' flavor is enhanced by cold weather and a touch of frost.
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) - 50 to 70 days.
Cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata) - 80 days.
Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) - 60 to 90 days.
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala).
Leafy Vegetables
Leafy vegetables include annuals and biennials, such as beet greens, that are grown as annuals. These cool-season vegetables are planted from August until 60 days before the first frost date.
Beets (Beta vularis) developed for both greens and roots, such as 'Bull's Blood,' which has deep red leaves and roots, are grown through the winter in USDA zones 10 and 11. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is also planted in late summer and fall in USDA zones 6 through 8a and in winter in USDA zones 8b through 10.
'Bull's Blood' beet -- 35 days for baby greens and 58 days for roots.
Chard or Swiss chard (Beta vularis var. cicla) -- 35 days for salads and 60 days for mature leaves.
Lettuce -- 40 to 90 days, depending on the variety .
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) -- 40 to 55 days.
Peas
Peas (Pisum sativum) thrive in cool weather. Plant peas in August or September for a fall crop, before the first frost arrives. Harvest dates vary depending on the variety, ranging from 54 to 72 days. Count back from the first frost date and allow an extra seven to 14 days so the peas have time to develop. If the weather is still hot, provide afternoon shade to protect the developing vines, flowers and pods. Peas grow best when allowed to climb a trellis.
Root Vegetables
Root vegetables that thrive in cool weather are often sweeter after a frost. Plant the seeds in loose, organically rich soil from August until approximately six to eight weeks before the first frost. Root vegetables may be grown in sun or in warm regions, in partial shade.
Beets (Beta vulgaris
var. crassa) - 45 to 65 days.
Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) - 50 to 80 days.
Radishes (Raphanus sativus) - 22 to 70 days.
Cabbage Family
Members of the cabbage family (Brassicaceae or Cruciferae Family) are cool-weather vegetables that thrive in both early spring and late fall until frost. Depending on the species, these vegetables are also grown through the winter in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 10. While most of the Brassicas are biennials, they are grown as annuals in the garden and harvested before they flower. Broccoli and cauliflower are exceptions; they are harvested after the flower heads appear, but while they are still immature, before they burst into bloom.
Brassica seedlings are set out in the garden in August for a fall or winter harvest. If the weather is still hot, protect the seedlings from the afternoon sun with shade cloth or sheets suspended on bamboo poles. As the hardiest of the cool-season vegetables, most Brassicas' flavor is enhanced by cold weather and a touch of frost.
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) - 50 to 70 days.
Cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata) - 80 days.
Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis) - 60 to 90 days.
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala).
Leafy Vegetables
Leafy vegetables include annuals and biennials, such as beet greens, that are grown as annuals. These cool-season vegetables are planted from August until 60 days before the first frost date.
Beets (Beta vularis) developed for both greens and roots, such as 'Bull's Blood,' which has deep red leaves and roots, are grown through the winter in USDA zones 10 and 11. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is also planted in late summer and fall in USDA zones 6 through 8a and in winter in USDA zones 8b through 10.
'Bull's Blood' beet -- 35 days for baby greens and 58 days for roots.
Chard or Swiss chard (Beta vularis var. cicla) -- 35 days for salads and 60 days for mature leaves.
Lettuce -- 40 to 90 days, depending on the variety .
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) -- 40 to 55 days.
Peas
Peas (Pisum sativum) thrive in cool weather. Plant peas in August or September for a fall crop, before the first frost arrives. Harvest dates vary depending on the variety, ranging from 54 to 72 days. Count back from the first frost date and allow an extra seven to 14 days so the peas have time to develop. If the weather is still hot, provide afternoon shade to protect the developing vines, flowers and pods. Peas grow best when allowed to climb a trellis.
Root Vegetables
Root vegetables that thrive in cool weather are often sweeter after a frost. Plant the seeds in loose, organically rich soil from August until approximately six to eight weeks before the first frost. Root vegetables may be grown in sun or in warm regions, in partial shade.
Beets (Beta vulgaris
var. crassa) - 45 to 65 days.
Carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) - 50 to 80 days.
Radishes (Raphanus sativus) - 22 to 70 days.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月15日
The sour flavor experienced with some foods is due to citric acid. It can be found in many fruits and vegetables, especially citrus fruits such as lemons and oranges.
Definition
Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates.
Vegetables
Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level.
Preservatives
Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste.
Natural Cleansers
Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control.
Absorption
A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.
Definition
Citric acid is an organic, crystalline acid that exists in a variety of fruits and vegetables. It is colorless and is derived by fermentation of carbohydrates.
Vegetables
Citric acid can be found in beans, broccoli, carrots, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes. The acidity in foods can be measured in "pH" levels. The lower the pH level, the more acid is in the food. Tomatoes are high in citric acid and measure between 4.30 and 4.90 in pH level. Broccoli measures between 6.30 and 6.52 in pH level.
Preservatives
Food manufacturers add citric acid to jams, canned fruits and vegetables. Citric acid is also added to soft drinks for the sour taste.
Natural Cleansers
Many environmentally friendly products use citric acid as their cleaning agent. Citric acid can also be used for odor control.
Absorption
A person usually consumes about 500 mg citric acid per day. This is about the same as 2 ounces of orange juice. Citric acid is absorbed through the digestive tract and eliminated by the kidneys.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月14日
Many gardeners enjoy planting a large variety of different vegetables, trying new types each year. There are two basic types of vegetables from which you can choose; vegetables that grow underneath the ground and those that grow above ground. If you dream of sun-ripened food and plants with their bounty displayed in full view, there are a wide variety from which to choose.
Lettuce
Lettuce is one of the earliest vegetables to be picked in the spring, giving home gardeners a welcome taste of fresh green crunchiness early in the season. Lettuce can grow as separate leaves or bunched into heads. The entire lettuce plant above the ground consists of leaves, and everything that grows can be eaten. Many seed companies sell mixed packets of lettuces so that you can try many different varieties for your salads.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are long thin vegetables that grow on vines. The sturdy vines grow up trellises or fences quite easily, making them a common vegetables for the home gardener to produce. 6- to 8-inch cucumbers will be ready to pick in the middle of summer, and will continue to ripen throughout the season as long as you continue to pick them every three days or so.
Pumpkin
Pumpkins are classically thought of as material for Halloween decorations, but they are much more than that. Pumpkins can be turned into pumpkin butter, pumpkin bread, pies, custards and soup. This gourd loves warm weather, so don't plant until all chance of frost has gone past. Pumpkin vines grow very large, so plant them 3 to 5 feet apart. The pumpkins will appear in early summer and grow until the frost has appeared in the fall. Many people keep one plant separate to try to grow a giant pumpkin for Halloween, but the smaller versions are easier to deal with for cooking and eating.
Tomato
More tomato plants are grown by gardeners than any other vegetable, and deservedly so. This versatile veggie is tasty eaten fresh in salads and sandwiches, and preserves easily by canning or freezing for use in sauces, soups and stews later in the year. There are hundreds of tomato varieties, from tiny cherry tomatoes to sandwich-sized beefsteaks. There are heirloom varieties that have been around for generations and hybrids that were developed in the past couple of years for resistance to particular plant diseases or to produce new colors or flavors.
Lettuce
Lettuce is one of the earliest vegetables to be picked in the spring, giving home gardeners a welcome taste of fresh green crunchiness early in the season. Lettuce can grow as separate leaves or bunched into heads. The entire lettuce plant above the ground consists of leaves, and everything that grows can be eaten. Many seed companies sell mixed packets of lettuces so that you can try many different varieties for your salads.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are long thin vegetables that grow on vines. The sturdy vines grow up trellises or fences quite easily, making them a common vegetables for the home gardener to produce. 6- to 8-inch cucumbers will be ready to pick in the middle of summer, and will continue to ripen throughout the season as long as you continue to pick them every three days or so.
Pumpkin
Pumpkins are classically thought of as material for Halloween decorations, but they are much more than that. Pumpkins can be turned into pumpkin butter, pumpkin bread, pies, custards and soup. This gourd loves warm weather, so don't plant until all chance of frost has gone past. Pumpkin vines grow very large, so plant them 3 to 5 feet apart. The pumpkins will appear in early summer and grow until the frost has appeared in the fall. Many people keep one plant separate to try to grow a giant pumpkin for Halloween, but the smaller versions are easier to deal with for cooking and eating.
Tomato
More tomato plants are grown by gardeners than any other vegetable, and deservedly so. This versatile veggie is tasty eaten fresh in salads and sandwiches, and preserves easily by canning or freezing for use in sauces, soups and stews later in the year. There are hundreds of tomato varieties, from tiny cherry tomatoes to sandwich-sized beefsteaks. There are heirloom varieties that have been around for generations and hybrids that were developed in the past couple of years for resistance to particular plant diseases or to produce new colors or flavors.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
Potatoes are low-maintenance vegetables that you can grow in your home garden and that produce an abundant harvest. Grow potatoes from seed potatoes, which are small potatoes or pieces of larger ones. Pre-sprouting them before planting, also called chitting, ensures the seed potatoes are ready and able to produce plants. Plant these sprouted potatoes properly; otherwise, they rot in the ground instead of becoming healthy and productive plants.
Step 1
Prepare a full-sun garden bed for planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the entire bed, and one-half pound of 10-10-10 analysis fertilizer to each 10-foot row. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the bed.
Step 2
Cut large, sprouted seed potatoes into 1- to 2-inch pieces, leaving at least one sprout - and up to three - on each seed piece. Set the seed pieces on a tray with the cut side up, and leave them overnight so the cut sides scab over, which helps prevent rot. Small seed pieces can be left whole.
Step 3
Sow the seed pieces to a 3-inch depth, and space each piece 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Plant each seed piece so the sprout is on top and the cut side, if applicable, on the bottom.
Step 4
Water the bed after planting until the soil is moist to a 6-inch depth. Water once weekly to maintain this moisture level, or twice weekly during extended dry periods.
Step 5
Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of straw mulch once the potato plants are 5 inches tall. The mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weeds and also prevents sunburn on potato tubers growing near the soil surface.
Step 1
Prepare a full-sun garden bed for planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of compost over the entire bed, and one-half pound of 10-10-10 analysis fertilizer to each 10-foot row. Till the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches of the bed.
Step 2
Cut large, sprouted seed potatoes into 1- to 2-inch pieces, leaving at least one sprout - and up to three - on each seed piece. Set the seed pieces on a tray with the cut side up, and leave them overnight so the cut sides scab over, which helps prevent rot. Small seed pieces can be left whole.
Step 3
Sow the seed pieces to a 3-inch depth, and space each piece 8 to 12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Plant each seed piece so the sprout is on top and the cut side, if applicable, on the bottom.
Step 4
Water the bed after planting until the soil is moist to a 6-inch depth. Water once weekly to maintain this moisture level, or twice weekly during extended dry periods.
Step 5
Cover the bed with a 2-inch layer of straw mulch once the potato plants are 5 inches tall. The mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weeds and also prevents sunburn on potato tubers growing near the soil surface.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月12日
If you enjoy growing vegetables, then don't overlook snow peas (Pisum sativum var. saccharatum) and snap peas (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon). These peas don't produce ordinary, round, green peas you'll find in cans at the grocery store. Instead, they both offer special kinds of peas with edible pea pods that have a crunchy texture and slightly sweet flavor, with snap peas being a bit sweeter. Snow peas and snap peas share many similarities, but each has a unique and clearly distinguishable pod. These varieties are also harvested at different maturity levels. Both plants grow as annuals in all U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones.
Dissimilar Pods
Although snow peas and snap peas both have edible pea pods, their pods are very different. The snow pea pod is especially large, up to 5 inches long. It is broad, flat and very thin. Snow pea pods are also translucent, allowing you to see light through them. These peas taste best when picked young, before the peas inside them produce visible bulges along the back of the pod. The flatter the pod the better. Snap peas, in contrast, produce narrow, oval-shaped pods. These pods are thick, fleshy and opaque. You can't see the peas inside snap pea pods because the pod itself is so thick. Despite this fleshy cocoon, snap peas remain quite crisp and produce an audible snap when broken in half. This is how the plant got its name. The best time to pick snap peas is when the pods are full-size and filled with young but well-developed peas.
Growth Supports
Like all pea varieties, snap and snow pea plants grow as trailing vines that have tendrils capable of attaching to a support. Some snow pea varieties have shorter vines than those of snap peas and can grow well without any support. For example, the snow pea cultivar "Oregon Sugar Pod II" has vines that are only about 28 inches long or tall, while the cultivar "Snowbird" has even shorter vines, about 18 inches. Snap pea vines, however, are tall and almost always require the support of a fence or trellis. If necessary, you can make your own simple support by stringing stiff wire between two stakes in the ground.
Climate
Both snow and snap peas are cool-season crops, thriving during cool spring or fall weather. Plant either type early in spring, as soon as the soil becomes workable, or in early fall while time remains for a crop before winter arrives. Both plants are frost-resistant and will likely survive until the first killing frost. Snap peas also resist a short hot spell well, growing a bit faster in warm temperatures but still producing a sweet, crunchy crop. Because snow peas need picking before the peas grow inside the pods, however, they're a bit more sensitive than snap peas to heat. If a heat wave lasts more than one or two days, your peas may mature a bit too rapidly. If they do, the peas may be a bit tougher than normal but will still have a pleasant taste.
Soil and Water
Snow and snap peas both grow in any type of garden soil, provided it is well-drained. They need even moisture to set a good crop and do best with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain. Provide supplemental water during dry spells, but avoid overhead watering to lower the risk of fungal disorders. Instead, use a soaker hose or drip-irrigation system. Adding a 3-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and keeps down weeds that compete with the pear for moisture and soil nutrients. Don't allow the mulch to touch the plant stems.
Dissimilar Pods
Although snow peas and snap peas both have edible pea pods, their pods are very different. The snow pea pod is especially large, up to 5 inches long. It is broad, flat and very thin. Snow pea pods are also translucent, allowing you to see light through them. These peas taste best when picked young, before the peas inside them produce visible bulges along the back of the pod. The flatter the pod the better. Snap peas, in contrast, produce narrow, oval-shaped pods. These pods are thick, fleshy and opaque. You can't see the peas inside snap pea pods because the pod itself is so thick. Despite this fleshy cocoon, snap peas remain quite crisp and produce an audible snap when broken in half. This is how the plant got its name. The best time to pick snap peas is when the pods are full-size and filled with young but well-developed peas.
Growth Supports
Like all pea varieties, snap and snow pea plants grow as trailing vines that have tendrils capable of attaching to a support. Some snow pea varieties have shorter vines than those of snap peas and can grow well without any support. For example, the snow pea cultivar "Oregon Sugar Pod II" has vines that are only about 28 inches long or tall, while the cultivar "Snowbird" has even shorter vines, about 18 inches. Snap pea vines, however, are tall and almost always require the support of a fence or trellis. If necessary, you can make your own simple support by stringing stiff wire between two stakes in the ground.
Climate
Both snow and snap peas are cool-season crops, thriving during cool spring or fall weather. Plant either type early in spring, as soon as the soil becomes workable, or in early fall while time remains for a crop before winter arrives. Both plants are frost-resistant and will likely survive until the first killing frost. Snap peas also resist a short hot spell well, growing a bit faster in warm temperatures but still producing a sweet, crunchy crop. Because snow peas need picking before the peas grow inside the pods, however, they're a bit more sensitive than snap peas to heat. If a heat wave lasts more than one or two days, your peas may mature a bit too rapidly. If they do, the peas may be a bit tougher than normal but will still have a pleasant taste.
Soil and Water
Snow and snap peas both grow in any type of garden soil, provided it is well-drained. They need even moisture to set a good crop and do best with about 1 inch of water weekly, including rain. Provide supplemental water during dry spells, but avoid overhead watering to lower the risk of fungal disorders. Instead, use a soaker hose or drip-irrigation system. Adding a 3-inch-thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and keeps down weeds that compete with the pear for moisture and soil nutrients. Don't allow the mulch to touch the plant stems.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月05日
Vegetables that need a strong support system, such as squash, gourds, melons, cucumbers and tomatoes are your best choices to grow on a chain link fence. With its sturdy metal posts and strong wires, chain-link provides enough strength to withstand heavy loads. Chain-link also provides beans and tomatoes ample space for their long vines and branches to grow both vertically and horizontally.
Green beans produce abundant crops.
All beans, whether pole or bush, send out curling shoots that need the close-knit weaving of a chain-link fence. Even though you can grow bush beans without support, they do best and are more easily harvested when trained to grow vertically. Pole beans produce longer than bush beans and will cover a larger area of fencing, according to Dr. Leonard P. Perry, Professor at the University of Vermont Extension. All beans produce flowers before they produce the bean pods, but scarlet runner beans have attractive, red flowers that many vegetable gardeners love. Beans need a fence in full sun with soil that has good drainage.
Gourds and Squashes
Vegetable gardeners have a wide variety of gourds and squashes to choose from.
The strength of a chain-link fence is especially beneficial when growing gourds and winter squash; the vines themselves require the nooks and crannies of the fence to pull themselves up. The wires provide places to tie cloth or netting support to hold up heavy individual squashes and gourds to prevent their stems from breaking. Train gourd and squash vines to grow both vertically and horizontally on the fence, as the vines can reach up to 25 feet for gourds and up to 10 feet for squash.
Tomatoes
Growing tomatoes on chain-link fencing prevents soil diseases from damaging plants.
Most vegetables gardeners find that tomatoes quickly outgrow the standard tomato cages bought in the local garden store and using just one or two stakes doesn’t provide enough support. Chain-link fencing is a perfect alternative. Barbara Damrosch, author of "The Garden Primer," recommends a 5-foot high support, so add additional height to your fence if necessary by tying metal stakes or wooden dowels to the existing poles and stringing twine between the stakes. Use strips of cloth or soft twine to support the vines so that stems are not damaged. A chain-link fence allows you to train the tomato vines to grow both vertically and horizontally.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
If you think the gardening season is limited to spring, summer and fall, think again. A surprising number of vegetables grow well throughout the winter, and with a little help from a greenhouse, you'll hardly miss your summer garden.
Greens
Many of the typical garden salad greens are suitable for a winter garden. Plant lettuce, spinach, mustard, chard, kale and collards in September for harvest in late winter.
Herbs
In the herb garden, try sage, parsley, cilantro, rosemary and thyme. These usually grow well in areas with mild winters.
Other Vegetables
Plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, onions and turnips in September for use in late winter and early spring. Start beets, carrots and peas in August for harvest throughout the winter.
Warm Weather Crops
While tomatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers and eggplants rarely survive the entire winter, they can be planted in a greenhouse during the late winter for an early harvest that spring. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, nearly all warm weather crops will grow throughout the winter.
Greens
Many of the typical garden salad greens are suitable for a winter garden. Plant lettuce, spinach, mustard, chard, kale and collards in September for harvest in late winter.
Herbs
In the herb garden, try sage, parsley, cilantro, rosemary and thyme. These usually grow well in areas with mild winters.
Other Vegetables
Plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, onions and turnips in September for use in late winter and early spring. Start beets, carrots and peas in August for harvest throughout the winter.
Warm Weather Crops
While tomatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers and eggplants rarely survive the entire winter, they can be planted in a greenhouse during the late winter for an early harvest that spring. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, nearly all warm weather crops will grow throughout the winter.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
With container gardens, you can have fresh vegetables all year even when garden space is not available. Zucchini is a summer squash that grows best in full sun and warm conditions. As container culture gains popularity, many new dwarf or small growing varieties of vegetables are being developed; compact zucchini varieties are no exception, and include the culitvars Black Magic, Hybrid Jackpot, Gold Rush and Classic. Grow zucchini indoors all year round. In winter, place the pots in a south facing window where they will get the most sun.
Step 1
Fill 2-inch pots with soil-less seed starting mix. Use a pre-mixed formula available at garden centers or make your own by mixing equal parts vermiculite and peat moss. Dampen the mixture and fill the 2-inch pots.
Step 2
Place one zucchini seed in each pot and cover it with 1/2 inch of soil. Place the pots in dappled or filtered sun with a temperature range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil around the seedlings damp with frequent light applications of water. The seedlings will germinate in five to seven days and be ready to transplant into a large, permanent container in three to four weeks.
Step 3
Fill one 5-gallon container for each zucchini plant. Use a well-draining soil-less potting mix and fill the pot to 1-inch below the lip of the container. Garden centers sell pre-formulated mixes for indoor vegetable container growing. Alternately, mix your own by combining equal parts loam, peat and coarse clean sand. Add a 14-14-14 liquid fertilizer to the mix. Check the back of the package to determine the correct amount.
Step 4
Dampen the potting mix with water until it is light and crumbly. Scoop out a shallow hole in the center of the pot large enough to accommodate the root ball of one zucchini plant. Select the strongest of the zucchini seedlings for planting.
Step 5
Slide the seedling out of the small pot and place it into the large container with the base of the stem planted at the same depth in the soil as it was in the seeding pot. Fill in around the roots and pat down the soil to secure the seedling in the pot. Place the potted zucchini in a sunny window where it will get at least five to six hours of sun each day.
Step 6
Fertilize once a week using a fertilizer formulated for complete nutrition. There are many combinations on the market for vegetable growing. A good, basic fertilizer formula like a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Check the package for the correct application amount and method.
Step 7
Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, usually daily or every other day for container grown zucchini plants. Soak the soil thoroughly at each watering. Place the pot on a saucer or tray to catch water and protect surfaces. Empty the saucer after every watering to prevent water from sitting around the root system.
Step 8
Harvest the zucchini plants as when they are 3 to 4 inches long and still tender. Harvest continuously as the fruits ripen to encourage the plant to keep producing. Zucchini are ready to harvest 50 to 70 days after planting.
Step 1
Fill 2-inch pots with soil-less seed starting mix. Use a pre-mixed formula available at garden centers or make your own by mixing equal parts vermiculite and peat moss. Dampen the mixture and fill the 2-inch pots.
Step 2
Place one zucchini seed in each pot and cover it with 1/2 inch of soil. Place the pots in dappled or filtered sun with a temperature range between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the soil around the seedlings damp with frequent light applications of water. The seedlings will germinate in five to seven days and be ready to transplant into a large, permanent container in three to four weeks.
Step 3
Fill one 5-gallon container for each zucchini plant. Use a well-draining soil-less potting mix and fill the pot to 1-inch below the lip of the container. Garden centers sell pre-formulated mixes for indoor vegetable container growing. Alternately, mix your own by combining equal parts loam, peat and coarse clean sand. Add a 14-14-14 liquid fertilizer to the mix. Check the back of the package to determine the correct amount.
Step 4
Dampen the potting mix with water until it is light and crumbly. Scoop out a shallow hole in the center of the pot large enough to accommodate the root ball of one zucchini plant. Select the strongest of the zucchini seedlings for planting.
Step 5
Slide the seedling out of the small pot and place it into the large container with the base of the stem planted at the same depth in the soil as it was in the seeding pot. Fill in around the roots and pat down the soil to secure the seedling in the pot. Place the potted zucchini in a sunny window where it will get at least five to six hours of sun each day.
Step 6
Fertilize once a week using a fertilizer formulated for complete nutrition. There are many combinations on the market for vegetable growing. A good, basic fertilizer formula like a 5-10-10 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Check the package for the correct application amount and method.
Step 7
Water when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch, usually daily or every other day for container grown zucchini plants. Soak the soil thoroughly at each watering. Place the pot on a saucer or tray to catch water and protect surfaces. Empty the saucer after every watering to prevent water from sitting around the root system.
Step 8
Harvest the zucchini plants as when they are 3 to 4 inches long and still tender. Harvest continuously as the fruits ripen to encourage the plant to keep producing. Zucchini are ready to harvest 50 to 70 days after planting.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Red onions can be eaten raw, boiled, broiled, baked, creamed, steamed, fried or pickled. These cool-season vegetables are grown by gardeners either from seeds or from small bulbs. Onions are biennial plants that take two years to complete their life cycle. When planted from seed, the red onion forms and above-ground steam--modified leave --and tiny underground bulbs. The next year, larger bulbs form until the red onions are mature and ready for harvest. Planting small red onion bulbs, known as onion sets, allows gardeners to bypass the first year of growing and harvest mature onions much more quickly.
Loosen the soil to the depth of 6 inches with a shovel two to four weeks before the last frost date. Till the soil until it is loose and ready for planting. Add 2 inches of compost to the soil to ensure good fertility.
Plant the red onion sets 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Cover them with soil, but do not compact the soil. Plant additional rows of onions 12 to 18 inches apart.
Weed the onion patch by hand. Red onions have shallow roots and do not grow well among weeds and grass, which compete for soil nutrients and moisture. Use a garden hoe to eradicate the weeds between the rows.
Water the red onion bulbs each week whenever the weather is dry. Water the soil around the base of the plants until the soil is moist to depth of 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bulbs. Use a 1-inch layer of straw mulch around the red onion bulbs to suppress weed growth and hold in soil moisture.
Feed the red onions three weeks after active growth has started. Place a narrow band of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer 2 to 3 inches beside the row of onions. Scratch it into the top 1 inch of soil and water right away to start the fertilizer working. Use about 1 lb. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of planting space.
Pull every other onion when harvesting for the first time. This allows the red onions left in the garden more room to grow. Harvest the onions on a dry morning. Let the onions dry for the day in the shade. Later, braid the tops together and hang the red onion bunches in a cool, dry area with good air circulation.
Loosen the soil to the depth of 6 inches with a shovel two to four weeks before the last frost date. Till the soil until it is loose and ready for planting. Add 2 inches of compost to the soil to ensure good fertility.
Plant the red onion sets 1 inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart. Cover them with soil, but do not compact the soil. Plant additional rows of onions 12 to 18 inches apart.
Weed the onion patch by hand. Red onions have shallow roots and do not grow well among weeds and grass, which compete for soil nutrients and moisture. Use a garden hoe to eradicate the weeds between the rows.
Water the red onion bulbs each week whenever the weather is dry. Water the soil around the base of the plants until the soil is moist to depth of 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bulbs. Use a 1-inch layer of straw mulch around the red onion bulbs to suppress weed growth and hold in soil moisture.
Feed the red onions three weeks after active growth has started. Place a narrow band of 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer 2 to 3 inches beside the row of onions. Scratch it into the top 1 inch of soil and water right away to start the fertilizer working. Use about 1 lb. of fertilizer for every 100 square feet of planting space.
Pull every other onion when harvesting for the first time. This allows the red onions left in the garden more room to grow. Harvest the onions on a dry morning. Let the onions dry for the day in the shade. Later, braid the tops together and hang the red onion bunches in a cool, dry area with good air circulation.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
Determining the best time to plant your vegetable garden in Kentucky involves more than looking at the calendar. To find the best planting date for each crop, you'll have to take into account your location within the state, the particular vegetables you're planting and when you want to harvest them.
Last Freeze Dates
Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early.
In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4.
Soil Conditions and Temperatures
You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist.
Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins.
Cool-Season Crops
Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east.
Warm-Season Crops
Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo).
The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east.
Fall Crops
A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall.
Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
Last Freeze Dates
Learn the typical date of the spring's last freeze so you can avoid the danger of setting out freeze- and frost-sensitive plants too early. The date of the last freeze varies from year to year, of course, but knowledge of typical freeze-free dates can help you reduce the risk of planting too early.
In western Kentucky, the average date of the last freeze comes relatively early; in Paducah, the median date of the last freeze is April 8. In central Kentucky, the last freeze comes somewhat later; the median last freeze in Lexington comes on April 18. In western Kentucky, freezes tend to occur even later; the median last freeze date in Ashland is May 4.
Soil Conditions and Temperatures
You can plant cool-season crops in the spring as soon as the soil is workable, meaning the ground is no longer frozen and the soil can be tilled. The soil should also not be so wet that it forms clumps when it's tilled or compressed in your fist.
Early crops should also be planted when the air temperature is relatively cool -- between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, so the plants have time to develop before the heat of late spring and summer begins.
Cool-Season Crops
Cool-season crops are not vulnerable to damage from frost, and they can be planted in Kentucky even before the danger of spring frosts has passed. Cool-season crops include broccoli (Brassica oleracea (Italica group)), cabbage (Brassica oleracea (Capitata group)), lettuce (Lactuca sativa) and onions (Allium cepa).
On average, the earliest planting date for cabbage and lettuce is March 15 in western Kentucky, March 25 in central Kentucky, April 1 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for broccoli plants is March 30 in the west, April 5 in the central part of the state, April 10 in the east. Onion sets can be planted as early as March 1 in the west, March 10 in central Kentucky and March 15 in the east.
Warm-Season Crops
Warm-season crops will be injured by frost, so they can't be planted until after frost danger has passed in the spring. Warm-season crops include tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), peppers (Capsicum annuum) and summer squash (Cucurbita pepo).
The earliest safe planting date for tomato plants is April 20 in western Kentucky, May 5 in central Kentucky and May 15 in eastern Kentucky. The earliest planting date for cucumbers is April 20 in the west, May 1 in the central part of the state, May 10 in the east. Pepper plants can be planted around May 1 in the west, May 10 in central Kentucky, May 20 in the east. Summer squash safe-planting dates are April 20 in the west, May 10 in the central region, May 15 in the east.
Fall Crops
A second planting of cool-season crops during the summer will allow you to take advantage of the cooler weather of the late season to produce a fall harvest. Planting should be timed so that the young plants are not subjected to the hottest summer temperatures, but so they have enough time to mature before hard freezes in the late fall.
Plant cabbage, for example, by July 1 in western Kentucky, July 15 in central Kentucky and August 1 in eastern Kentucky. Plant lettuce by August 1 in the west, August 15 in the central region and September 1 in the east.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Because Pennsylvania includes three U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones and their subzones, the times for planting vegetables vary considerably from Philadelphia, which is in USDA zone 7a in the southeastern part of the state, to Bradford in USDA zone 5a in the northwest. The state's coldest areas, in USDA zone 5a, are mostly concentrated in Warren and McKean counties. Because the requirements for gardening in USDA zone 5a differ from those in USDA zone 5b regions, the two subzones are listed separately. Always adapt seedlings started indoors gradually to the cooler and brighter conditions outdoors before you transplant them into a garden.
Hardy Vegetables
Hardy vegetables include those that can survive frosts, such as cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group), broccoli (Brassica oleracea, Cymosa Group) and brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, Gemmifera Group). Start such plants indoors about 10 weeks before your location's last average annual spring frost date, and transplant them into the garden four weeks before that last frost date, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The last frost is usually in mid- to late April for USDA zone 7, in early to mid-May for zone 6, in mid- to late May for zone 5b and in June for zone 5a.
Hardy root crops such as carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) and radish (Raphanus sativus) usually should be direct sown -- sown directly in the garden -- rather than started indoors. That rule also applies to peas (Pisum sativum) as well as vegetables grown from tubers or sets, such as potato (Solanum tuberosum) and onion (Allium cepa) plants.
Because the suggested planting times are based on more conservative, later last frost dates, you may be able to sow seeds and set out seedlings two weeks earlier in a mild year. If you are running late, you can continue to plant hardy vegetables until late May.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in mid-February; set outdoors or direct sow in late March.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in early March; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-April.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors or direct sow in late-April.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in early April; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-May.
Slow-Growing Tender Vegetables
Among the vegetables that grow slowly are tender vegetables, such as tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum), pepper (Capsicum annuum) and eggplant (Solanum melongena), which almost always are started early or purchased as transplants. Plan to sow them indoors two months before your area's last spring frost date and to transplant them into the garden just after that date. The soil temperature should be at least 60 F when pepper and eggplant seedlings are set out, but tomato seedlings tolerate 50 F soil.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in late February; set outdoors in late April.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in late March; set outdoors in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in mid-April; set outdoors in mid-June.
Fast-Growing Tender Vegetables
Pre-sowing large-seeded vegetables is usually pointless because they grow rapidly when sown directly in a garden. Those vegetables include vining types such as varieties of melons (Cucumis melo) and squashes (Cucurbita spp.) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus), as well as beans (Phaseolus spp.) and sweet corn (Zea mays).
If you live in USDA zones 5b through 7, plant all of them except corn just after your last frost date, provided the soil temperature is at least 60 F. Corn can be started a little earlier, when the soil is 50 F. If you are in USDA zone 5a, then some of these vegetables may need to be sown indoors two to three weeks before the last spring frost; an option is to purchase them as transplants to extend a short growing season.
USDA zone 7: Direct-sow in late April.
USDA zone 6: Direct-sow in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Direct-sow in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Direct-sow in mid-June or pre-sow indoors in late May to set out in mid-June.
Fall Vegetables
Fast-maturing varieties of the same hardy vegetables that can be planted in spring also can be grown in fall. Sow them about two months before your area's first average annual fall frost, placing a board over rows of seeds that you sow in your garden to cool the soil. Remove that board as soon as the seeds begin to germinate, and mulch the seedlings with straw so they can continue to keep cool.
USDA zone 7: Sow in mid- to late August.
USDA zones 5b and 6: Sow in early to mid-August.
USDA zone 5a: Sow in early to late July.
Hardy Vegetables
Hardy vegetables include those that can survive frosts, such as cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Capitata Group), broccoli (Brassica oleracea, Cymosa Group) and brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, Gemmifera Group). Start such plants indoors about 10 weeks before your location's last average annual spring frost date, and transplant them into the garden four weeks before that last frost date, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The last frost is usually in mid- to late April for USDA zone 7, in early to mid-May for zone 6, in mid- to late May for zone 5b and in June for zone 5a.
Hardy root crops such as carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), beet (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) and radish (Raphanus sativus) usually should be direct sown -- sown directly in the garden -- rather than started indoors. That rule also applies to peas (Pisum sativum) as well as vegetables grown from tubers or sets, such as potato (Solanum tuberosum) and onion (Allium cepa) plants.
Because the suggested planting times are based on more conservative, later last frost dates, you may be able to sow seeds and set out seedlings two weeks earlier in a mild year. If you are running late, you can continue to plant hardy vegetables until late May.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in mid-February; set outdoors or direct sow in late March.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in early March; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-April.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors or direct sow in late-April.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in early April; set outdoors or direct sow in mid-May.
Slow-Growing Tender Vegetables
Among the vegetables that grow slowly are tender vegetables, such as tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum), pepper (Capsicum annuum) and eggplant (Solanum melongena), which almost always are started early or purchased as transplants. Plan to sow them indoors two months before your area's last spring frost date and to transplant them into the garden just after that date. The soil temperature should be at least 60 F when pepper and eggplant seedlings are set out, but tomato seedlings tolerate 50 F soil.
USDA zone 7: Pre-sow in late February; set outdoors in late April.
USDA zone 6: Pre-sow in mid-March; set outdoors in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Pre-sow in late March; set outdoors in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Pre-sow in mid-April; set outdoors in mid-June.
Fast-Growing Tender Vegetables
Pre-sowing large-seeded vegetables is usually pointless because they grow rapidly when sown directly in a garden. Those vegetables include vining types such as varieties of melons (Cucumis melo) and squashes (Cucurbita spp.) and cucumber (Cucumis sativus), as well as beans (Phaseolus spp.) and sweet corn (Zea mays).
If you live in USDA zones 5b through 7, plant all of them except corn just after your last frost date, provided the soil temperature is at least 60 F. Corn can be started a little earlier, when the soil is 50 F. If you are in USDA zone 5a, then some of these vegetables may need to be sown indoors two to three weeks before the last spring frost; an option is to purchase them as transplants to extend a short growing season.
USDA zone 7: Direct-sow in late April.
USDA zone 6: Direct-sow in mid-May.
USDA zone 5b: Direct-sow in late May.
USDA zone 5a: Direct-sow in mid-June or pre-sow indoors in late May to set out in mid-June.
Fall Vegetables
Fast-maturing varieties of the same hardy vegetables that can be planted in spring also can be grown in fall. Sow them about two months before your area's first average annual fall frost, placing a board over rows of seeds that you sow in your garden to cool the soil. Remove that board as soon as the seeds begin to germinate, and mulch the seedlings with straw so they can continue to keep cool.
USDA zone 7: Sow in mid- to late August.
USDA zones 5b and 6: Sow in early to mid-August.
USDA zone 5a: Sow in early to late July.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
Across the month of March, gardeners in Tennessee prepare their soil beds in anticipation of planting potatoes. Rather than growing these vegetables from seeds, gardeners purchase small, healthy tubers called seed potatoes, which are certified disease-free. Since seed potatoes are planted in the ground and initially protected from frost, planting take place roughly two to four weeks before the average last spring frost date across the Volunteer State. The ideal garden site for potatoes is one with fertile, organic-rich soil that is moist and drains well. Full sun exposure ensures the best growth and production of tubers for harvest.
Step 1
Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March.
Step 2
Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation.
Step 3
Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured.
Step 4
Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5
Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores.
Step 6
Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart.
Step 7
Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
Step 1
Cultivate the soil with a shovel or rototiller in early spring as soon as the ground is workable. Dig the soil 6 to 10 inches deep. That means there is no frost in the soil, and it's not overly wet. Depending on the location in Tennessee, prepare the vegetable garden area for potatoes between late February and late March.
Step 2
Scatter 1 to 3 inches of organic matter on top of the soil and mix with the shovel or rototiller. Use compost, leaf mold or well-rotted animal manure to improve the texture and fertility of the soil. The potatoes will benefit from your bed preparation.
Step 3
Rake the tilled area smooth with a garden rake and allow it to naturally settle for three to seven days. While raking, remove any debris and pulverize any soil clumps so the area is even and fine-textured.
Step 4
Purchase seed potatoes at the garden center. Ask staff members for insight into the different varieties. Confirm that the seed potatoes are certified disease-free. They also should look plump and feel dry and firm to the touch.
Step 5
Cut the seed potatoes with a knife into segments about 2 oz. in size. Each cut segment needs to contain at least one dormant bud called an eye. From this eye the potato stem and roots sprout. This is optional since some seed potatoes are rather small and don't need cutting so one to three eyes exist on each. If you cannot plant the cut seed potatoes within four hours, allow them to air dry for one or two days. This curing of the wounds seals the tuber and helps prevent any infestation by disease spores.
Step 6
Create a 4- to 5-inch-deep furrow in the vegetable garden with the hoe. Space rows of potatoes 36 inches apart.
Step 7
Place a seed potato into the furrow with the cut side down or eyes oriented upward or to the side. Space potatoes 10 to 12 inches apart in the furrow. Cover them with soil and gently tamp the surface with the back of the hoe blade. This removes air pockets and brings the seed potatoes in direct contact with soil particles.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月14日
Grow fresh vegetables all year in Phoenix. The hot summer sun is a good thing for the right vegetables. Thoughtful garden design protects plants from too much sun. Irrigation and shade are key ingredients to enjoying the fruits and vegetables of your labor through summer's heat.
Irrigation
Irrigating vegetables is a balance of the right amount of water at the right time of day. Thorough watering early in the day provides a reservoir from which plants can draw through the heat of the day. Drip or soaker irrigation is preferred, because water droplets on vegetables or leaves turn into magnifying glasses concentrating sunlight and burning the plant. Overnight watering contributes to molds and soil-transmitted disease. Missing one day's irrigation can kill plants in the summer.
Shade
Peppers, corn, most tomatoes and melons thrive in the heat and sun all day long. Most herbs, basil is an exception, need shade from direct sunlight. Other vegetable plants, such as leeks and eggplant, also need protection from direct afternoon sun. Shade cloths, readily available in the Phoenix area, are easily installed over sensitive plants.
Monsoon
Protect plants from violent summer monsoons and their wind, hail and heavy rain by using poles, stakes or tomato cages to keep plants from breaking during the pummeling. Ensure shade cloth is well anchored and has wind flaps to reduce the chance of it sailing away in the storm.
Dust
Dust on leaves interferes with transpiration. Gently wash dust off leaves with a light spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. Carefully apply water to leaves and avoid saturating below the soil surface.
Mulch
Mulch benefits the Phoenix vegetable garden by helping retain water and preventing weeds. Chunky mulch, such as a bark, allows airflow at ground level, depressing soil temperature and protecting roots.
Container Gardens
Direct sun turns containers into ovens, baking vegetable roots. Any plant in a container needs to be shaded, beginning at midmorning. Irrigate containers twice a day to maintain a cool soil temperature. Potted soil is less susceptible to disease allowing for the twice-a-day watering.
Irrigation
Irrigating vegetables is a balance of the right amount of water at the right time of day. Thorough watering early in the day provides a reservoir from which plants can draw through the heat of the day. Drip or soaker irrigation is preferred, because water droplets on vegetables or leaves turn into magnifying glasses concentrating sunlight and burning the plant. Overnight watering contributes to molds and soil-transmitted disease. Missing one day's irrigation can kill plants in the summer.
Shade
Peppers, corn, most tomatoes and melons thrive in the heat and sun all day long. Most herbs, basil is an exception, need shade from direct sunlight. Other vegetable plants, such as leeks and eggplant, also need protection from direct afternoon sun. Shade cloths, readily available in the Phoenix area, are easily installed over sensitive plants.
Monsoon
Protect plants from violent summer monsoons and their wind, hail and heavy rain by using poles, stakes or tomato cages to keep plants from breaking during the pummeling. Ensure shade cloth is well anchored and has wind flaps to reduce the chance of it sailing away in the storm.
Dust
Dust on leaves interferes with transpiration. Gently wash dust off leaves with a light spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. Carefully apply water to leaves and avoid saturating below the soil surface.
Mulch
Mulch benefits the Phoenix vegetable garden by helping retain water and preventing weeds. Chunky mulch, such as a bark, allows airflow at ground level, depressing soil temperature and protecting roots.
Container Gardens
Direct sun turns containers into ovens, baking vegetable roots. Any plant in a container needs to be shaded, beginning at midmorning. Irrigate containers twice a day to maintain a cool soil temperature. Potted soil is less susceptible to disease allowing for the twice-a-day watering.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月14日
Homegrown vegetables always have more flavor and taste than store-purchased products, including onions. Most homegrown onions start with seeds or what is called seed sets, but Egyptian and potato onion varieties can grow from vegetative parts of the original onion plant. Potato, or multiplier, onions form an underground compound bulb from the mother bulb. This compound bulb is composed of six to 12 individual onion bulbs. Egyptian onions, on the other hand, send up a shoot with tiny bulblets on top for planting. Gardeners primarily grow multipliers and Egyptian onion to harvest as green onions in the spring. They sometimes are known as winter onions.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where you intend to plant the onions by adding organic matter in a ratio of one part organic matter to two parts soil. Work the mixture with a shovel into the plot at a depth of six to eight inches. Onions need a rich, loamy soil that will drain well.
Step 2
Harvest the attached compound bulbs from the mother bulb for either type of onion. Carefully dig the multiplier onion's mother bulb from the ground and separate the attached smaller onion bulbs from it. Cut off the bulblet cluster from the center green stem on the Egyptian onion and separate the bulblets.
Step 3
Plant bulbs or bulblets one to two inches deep and spaced three to five inches apart. Dig a hole for each onion piece, place the onion pointed end up, and cover it with the amended soil. Gently pat down the soil surface to eliminate air pockets and ensure good contact between the piece and the soil.
Step 4
Apply a fertilize formulated to a 1-2-2 ratio, like 5-10-10, following the instructions, every four to six weeks until the first frost. In the spring, apply one more feeding when the temperatures begin to warm. Onions are heavy feeder and require additional supplements of phosphorus and potassium, but overfeeding can produce soft bulbs or burn plants.
Step 5
Apply three to six inches of mulch over the planted onions in colder climates when the temperatures drop to freezing to protect growing onions. Remove the mulch once temperatures warm in the spring.
Step 1
Prepare the soil where you intend to plant the onions by adding organic matter in a ratio of one part organic matter to two parts soil. Work the mixture with a shovel into the plot at a depth of six to eight inches. Onions need a rich, loamy soil that will drain well.
Step 2
Harvest the attached compound bulbs from the mother bulb for either type of onion. Carefully dig the multiplier onion's mother bulb from the ground and separate the attached smaller onion bulbs from it. Cut off the bulblet cluster from the center green stem on the Egyptian onion and separate the bulblets.
Step 3
Plant bulbs or bulblets one to two inches deep and spaced three to five inches apart. Dig a hole for each onion piece, place the onion pointed end up, and cover it with the amended soil. Gently pat down the soil surface to eliminate air pockets and ensure good contact between the piece and the soil.
Step 4
Apply a fertilize formulated to a 1-2-2 ratio, like 5-10-10, following the instructions, every four to six weeks until the first frost. In the spring, apply one more feeding when the temperatures begin to warm. Onions are heavy feeder and require additional supplements of phosphorus and potassium, but overfeeding can produce soft bulbs or burn plants.
Step 5
Apply three to six inches of mulch over the planted onions in colder climates when the temperatures drop to freezing to protect growing onions. Remove the mulch once temperatures warm in the spring.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
If you enjoy vegetable gardening, you can grow more in less space if you plant certain crops on a trellis. Many types of vining plants grow well when trained onto a trellis, which keeps vegetables off the ground, evenly exposes the entire plant to sun and makes harvesting easier by eliminating the need to bend over when picking the crop.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
Vining Plants
Plants that are tendril-producing vines attach readily to a trellis, although gently winding young vines around the support can help get them started. These types include traditional, vining varieties of peas (Pisum sativum), which grow as annuals in all parts of the United States. Peas do best in cool spring weather and produce a crop in seven to ten weeks. If you like green beans, choose vining pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), growing them on a trellis for a crop of free-hanging, straight beans easy to see among the vines. Pole beans are annual plants that twine readily as vines lengthen and yield two or three times as many beans as shorter, bush varieties of beans.
Heavy Producers
Plants that produce many fruits during the season can also benefit from trellising, which helps support the heavy crop. Most types of cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) do well on a trellis, with some varieties producing vines that can be up to 6 feet high. Cucumbers grow as annuals and thrive in warm weather for good production. Indeterminate types of tomato plants (Lycopersicon esculentum) also do especially well on a trellis because they keep growing and producing until fall, with some vines becoming up to 6 feet high. Also annual plants, indeterminate tomatoes often produce large clusters of heavy fruit, so growing them on a trellis provides extra support while giving the entire plant good sun exposure. Use soft ties to attach tomato stems gently but securely to the trellis.
Other Vegetables
You can also use a trellis to grow any plant that has fruit smaller than a volleyball, or less than 8 1/2 inches in diameter, and weighs under about 3 pounds. For example, some varieties of summer squash (Cuccubita pepo) can thrive on a trellis -- use soft ties to attach smooth-stemmed varieties that lack tendrils. Smaller fruited varieties of winter squash (Curcubita moschata), such as the acorn type, are also appropriate choices for trellis-growing. If you see an especially large squash on one of these vines, use some netting or nylon cloth to construct a small "hammock" for support, tying the ends of the hammock to the trellis. Both summer and winter squash grow as annuals throughout the United States.
Trellis Types and Plant Choices
To construct a trellis, select two sturdy supports, such as 6-foot metal or wood stakes, spaced about 5 or 6 feet apart and pounded 1 foot deep into the ground. For a wider trellis, add a third stake, dividing the trellis' width into two sections, with the third stake in the middle. Suspend a 5-foot high length of plastic mesh or chicken wire between the stakes, or attach a length of wire across the tops of the stakes and tie 5-foot lengths of sturdy twine or wire at intervals along this vertical wire, allowing these to hang down to the ground. Once you've planted vegetables along the trellis, check young plants every few days and gently weave the growing tips into the mesh or around the wires as needed. When purchasing seeds or plants, check labels and only choose vining types, instead of nonvining, bushy varieties that won't grow well on a trellis.
0
0
