文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Nature’s most industrious pollinator, the bumblebee (Bombus impatiens) facilitates the fruiting of a number of vegetables and tree fruits. Intensive bee pollination of this kind results in greater yields of everything from tomatoes and peppers to strawberries and cherries. In this sense, bumblebees helps feed the world.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including bumble bees, at Planet Natural. One garden hive — 45 to 60 workers — covers up to 5,000 square feet and costs $159.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Bumble bees carry large pollen baskets on their hind legs. Pollen will also cling to their hairy abdomens to be deposited during their successive visits from blossom to blossom before returning to their hives. Hives are a place of communal activity where the gathered pollen is converted to food, offspring are fed, and the hive itself enlarged as food sources increase during the flowering season. It’s well know that these pollinators, like other social fauna, will defend their home from intruders. They also keep it cool during hot weather by aligning themselves in staggered lines and using their wings to fan the hive. Bumblebees are among nature’s most fascinating — and necessary — creatures.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Place the hive 1-3 feet above the ground, in a protected area. Do NOT place the hive in the foliage!
After placement, let the hive calm down for about 1 hour before opening the flight hole.
Whenever possible, open flight hole when ventilation windows are closed (early evening) to prevent loss of workers.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including bumble bees, at Planet Natural. One garden hive — 45 to 60 workers — covers up to 5,000 square feet and costs $159.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Bumble bees carry large pollen baskets on their hind legs. Pollen will also cling to their hairy abdomens to be deposited during their successive visits from blossom to blossom before returning to their hives. Hives are a place of communal activity where the gathered pollen is converted to food, offspring are fed, and the hive itself enlarged as food sources increase during the flowering season. It’s well know that these pollinators, like other social fauna, will defend their home from intruders. They also keep it cool during hot weather by aligning themselves in staggered lines and using their wings to fan the hive. Bumblebees are among nature’s most fascinating — and necessary — creatures.
HOW TO RELEASE:
Place the hive 1-3 feet above the ground, in a protected area. Do NOT place the hive in the foliage!
After placement, let the hive calm down for about 1 hour before opening the flight hole.
Whenever possible, open flight hole when ventilation windows are closed (early evening) to prevent loss of workers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Cabbage worms are the larval form of the Cabbage White butterfly (Pieris rapae, or Artogeia rapae). There are several types of worms that are called cabbage worms, but two species are the most common and most damaging to garden vegetables. In addition to cabbage, the worms can feed extensively broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, radishes, turnips, rutabagas, and kohlrabi.
Appearance
It is useful to know what both the larva and the butterfly look like because seeing either near your plants most likely means that you'll start seeing damage to your brassicas (such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale.)
Butterfly: Off-white wings, with one or two grayish-black spots per wing. The wingspan is roughly two inches across.
Larva (which is the form that does the actual damage): Velvety green, inchworm-type caterpillar that is roughly one inch long.
Eggs: These will be found on the undersides of leaves, and are yellow and oval-shaped.
Life Cycle
The larva builds a chrysalis in the fall and hatches as the Cabbage White butterfly in spring. The butterfly feeds on nectar and lays single eggs on the undersides of plants of the brassicas family. The eggs hatch in five to seven days. The larva (cabbage worm) feeds voraciously on brassicas, building up the energy to make its chrysalis and metamorphize over the winter.
Signs of Cabbage Worm Infestation
Because of their voracious appetite, an "infestation" can be as few as two or three worms per plant. Look for holes being chewed from the centers of leaves in kale and cabbage, as well as entry holes chewed to the interior of heads of cabbage. In particular, look on the undersides of leaves, because this is where the cabbage worms usually hang out.
They also produce dark green droppings that are fairly noticeable.
Effect on Garden Plants
A serious infestation can result in the death of the plant, since the more leaves that the cabbage worm manages to eat, the more compromised becomes the plant's ability to photosynthesize. A minor infestation can make plants look unsightly but won't render them inedible. Just wash them carefully and inspect cabbage and broccoli for any cabbage worms that have made their way to the interior of the heads.
Organic Controls for Cabbage Worms
While there are standard full-spectrum chemical pesticides that will control cabbage worms, the better strategy is to employ one of several different organic solutions:
Check your plants frequently for worms, especially if you have seen the butterflies nearby. Check plants thoroughly, and hand-pick and destroy any worms you find. If you have a serious infestation, purchase bacillus thuringiensis (BT) from your garden center and apply it according to the directions.
To prevent infestation in the first place, protect your plants with floating row covers, especially in spring and early summer, when egg-laying activity is at its highest.
To prevent the worms from burrowing into cabbage heads, insert each head into a nylon stocking, and leave it on until you harvest the head.
To repel the pests, dry a repellant drench made from a puree of spearmint, green onion, garlic, horseradish, hot peppers, peppercorns and water mixed in a blender. Then add one tablespoon of liquid soap per quart of mix and spray it onto the plants.
Make a caterpillar deterrent citrus spray by grinding up rinds and seeds of any citrus fruit, and soak it overnight in two cups of water. Strain the pulp and add two teaspoons liquid soap to the mixture and spray onto the plants.
Appearance
It is useful to know what both the larva and the butterfly look like because seeing either near your plants most likely means that you'll start seeing damage to your brassicas (such as cabbage, broccoli, and kale.)
Butterfly: Off-white wings, with one or two grayish-black spots per wing. The wingspan is roughly two inches across.
Larva (which is the form that does the actual damage): Velvety green, inchworm-type caterpillar that is roughly one inch long.
Eggs: These will be found on the undersides of leaves, and are yellow and oval-shaped.
Life Cycle
The larva builds a chrysalis in the fall and hatches as the Cabbage White butterfly in spring. The butterfly feeds on nectar and lays single eggs on the undersides of plants of the brassicas family. The eggs hatch in five to seven days. The larva (cabbage worm) feeds voraciously on brassicas, building up the energy to make its chrysalis and metamorphize over the winter.
Signs of Cabbage Worm Infestation
Because of their voracious appetite, an "infestation" can be as few as two or three worms per plant. Look for holes being chewed from the centers of leaves in kale and cabbage, as well as entry holes chewed to the interior of heads of cabbage. In particular, look on the undersides of leaves, because this is where the cabbage worms usually hang out.
They also produce dark green droppings that are fairly noticeable.
Effect on Garden Plants
A serious infestation can result in the death of the plant, since the more leaves that the cabbage worm manages to eat, the more compromised becomes the plant's ability to photosynthesize. A minor infestation can make plants look unsightly but won't render them inedible. Just wash them carefully and inspect cabbage and broccoli for any cabbage worms that have made their way to the interior of the heads.
Organic Controls for Cabbage Worms
While there are standard full-spectrum chemical pesticides that will control cabbage worms, the better strategy is to employ one of several different organic solutions:
Check your plants frequently for worms, especially if you have seen the butterflies nearby. Check plants thoroughly, and hand-pick and destroy any worms you find. If you have a serious infestation, purchase bacillus thuringiensis (BT) from your garden center and apply it according to the directions.
To prevent infestation in the first place, protect your plants with floating row covers, especially in spring and early summer, when egg-laying activity is at its highest.
To prevent the worms from burrowing into cabbage heads, insert each head into a nylon stocking, and leave it on until you harvest the head.
To repel the pests, dry a repellant drench made from a puree of spearmint, green onion, garlic, horseradish, hot peppers, peppercorns and water mixed in a blender. Then add one tablespoon of liquid soap per quart of mix and spray it onto the plants.
Make a caterpillar deterrent citrus spray by grinding up rinds and seeds of any citrus fruit, and soak it overnight in two cups of water. Strain the pulp and add two teaspoons liquid soap to the mixture and spray onto the plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Companion planting is a modern term applied to an age old practice. American Indians certainly utilized companion planting when cultivating their vegetables. Among the myriad of companion plant options, planting garlic with tomatoes, as well as with other types of vegetables, holds a unique place.
Can You Plant Garlic Near Tomatoes?
Companion planting works by increasing plant diversity. Simply put, companion planting is alternating two or more types of veggies in a single row. This practice seeks to confound insects that tend to consume certain crops, leading them to move onto greener pastures, so to speak. This practice is also referred to as intercropping — that is combining plants that are desired by insects among those that are undesirable.
The American Indians commonly intercropped three specific crops — corn, pole beans, and squash — called the Three Sisters method. This mutually advantageous planting system allows the beans to make use of the corn stalks to climb up, provides the corn nitrogen through the beans and the squash provides living mulch. There are many common combinations for companion planting. Some of these involve other vegetables or often flowers and herbs that repel insect marauders or attract pollinators. The answer to the above question is of course, you can plant garlic near tomatoes, but is there a benefit to such a companion planting? Strong smelling and tasting plants like onions and garlic are known to repel specific insect species.
Garlic and Tomato Companion Planting
So what benefit is there to planting garlic with tomatoes? Garlic is said to repel aphids when companion planted with roses. When garlic is grown around fruit trees, it deters borers, and specifically protects peach trees from leaf curl and apples from apple scab. Garlic in the garden is also said to deter:
Codling moths
Japanese beetles
Root maggots
Snails
Carrot root fly
Growing tomato plants next to garlic repels spider mites known to ravage the tomato crop. It seems that while most of us love the pungent flavor and aroma of garlic, the insect world finds it less irresistible. Keep in mind, however, that not all plants in the garden coexist with garlic as readily as companion planting garlic with tomatoes. Veggies such as peas, beans, cabbage, and strawberries have abhorrence for garlic.
You cannot only plant tomato plants next to garlic as a natural insecticide, but you can make your own garlic spray too. To make a garlic insecticidal spray, simply crush four cloves of garlic and steep them in a liter of water for several days. Pour this brew into a spray bottle for use as an insecticide, provided you are one of the many of us who love the smell of garlic.
Can You Plant Garlic Near Tomatoes?
Companion planting works by increasing plant diversity. Simply put, companion planting is alternating two or more types of veggies in a single row. This practice seeks to confound insects that tend to consume certain crops, leading them to move onto greener pastures, so to speak. This practice is also referred to as intercropping — that is combining plants that are desired by insects among those that are undesirable.
The American Indians commonly intercropped three specific crops — corn, pole beans, and squash — called the Three Sisters method. This mutually advantageous planting system allows the beans to make use of the corn stalks to climb up, provides the corn nitrogen through the beans and the squash provides living mulch. There are many common combinations for companion planting. Some of these involve other vegetables or often flowers and herbs that repel insect marauders or attract pollinators. The answer to the above question is of course, you can plant garlic near tomatoes, but is there a benefit to such a companion planting? Strong smelling and tasting plants like onions and garlic are known to repel specific insect species.
Garlic and Tomato Companion Planting
So what benefit is there to planting garlic with tomatoes? Garlic is said to repel aphids when companion planted with roses. When garlic is grown around fruit trees, it deters borers, and specifically protects peach trees from leaf curl and apples from apple scab. Garlic in the garden is also said to deter:
Codling moths
Japanese beetles
Root maggots
Snails
Carrot root fly
Growing tomato plants next to garlic repels spider mites known to ravage the tomato crop. It seems that while most of us love the pungent flavor and aroma of garlic, the insect world finds it less irresistible. Keep in mind, however, that not all plants in the garden coexist with garlic as readily as companion planting garlic with tomatoes. Veggies such as peas, beans, cabbage, and strawberries have abhorrence for garlic.
You cannot only plant tomato plants next to garlic as a natural insecticide, but you can make your own garlic spray too. To make a garlic insecticidal spray, simply crush four cloves of garlic and steep them in a liter of water for several days. Pour this brew into a spray bottle for use as an insecticide, provided you are one of the many of us who love the smell of garlic.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Fusarium oxyporum is the name of a fungus that can affect a wide range of plants. It’s common in vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes, but it’s also a real problem with cacti. Keep reading to learn more about signs of fusarium wilt in cactus plants and methods for treating fusarium on cactus.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
What is Cactus Fusarium?
While the fungus itself is called Fusarium oxyporum, the disease that results from it is commonly known as fusarium rot or fusarium wilt. The disease usually starts in the roots, where cactus fusarium enters through tiny wounds in the plant likely caused by nematodes. The fungus then spreads upward to the base of the cactus, where signs of fusarium wilt in cactus becomes more visible. A pink or white mold appears around the base of the plant, and the entire cactus might start to wilt and become discolored, turning red or purple. If the plant is cut open, it gives off a bad, rotting smell.
Treating Fusarium on Cactus Plants
Fusarium rot in cactus has no cure. Therefore, treating fusarium on cactus plants is more about prevention and damage control than it is about rehabilitation. If you find fusarium rot in cactus plants in your garden, you’ll likely have to dig up the plants and destroy them. If you catch it very early, however, you might be able to save the plant by cutting out the infected areas with a sharp knife and dusting the wounds with charcoal or sulphur dust. Cactus fusarium spreads quickly in hot, wet conditions, so try to keep your cacti as dry as possible. Always sterilize pots and use new, sterile soil when planting cacti to reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into its environment.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Gardeners flock to their vegetable and flower gardens in spring, replanting vegetables and tending perennial bulbs and bushes. Springtime also sees new plantings with new bulbs and perennials going into the ground and short-term annuals filling in the gaps. Annual petunias and marigolds both grow successfully separately and together throughout the country.
Petunias
The University of Minnesota ranks petunias among the most popular summertime annuals for their bright colors, lively fragrance and adaptability. Petunias grow in grandiflora, multiflora, miliflora and groundcover varieties with compact to vining growth, single-to double-petal flowers and many colors.
Marigolds
The Clemson Cooperative Extension notes that marigolds are very successful in home gardens with good hardiness and disease resistance. Marigolds grow in dwarf and large sizes ranging from 6 inches to 3 feet in height, depending on cultivar. Marigolds always bloom in oranges, yellows and reds.
Growing Season
Petunias and marigolds are annuals growing and blooming from spring to fall with the right care. As annuals, both plants fade and die in frost, requiring replanting in spring. Gardeners in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can maintain both varieties through winter in the absence of frost.
Site Requirements
Marigolds and petunias both do best in full sun and rich, dark soil. Both plants need quick drainage and grow well in the same beds. Amending the soil with organic compost and 5-10-5 fertilizer before planting gives the plants nutrition. Plant them according to cultivar-specific spacing and depth needs.
Petunias
The University of Minnesota ranks petunias among the most popular summertime annuals for their bright colors, lively fragrance and adaptability. Petunias grow in grandiflora, multiflora, miliflora and groundcover varieties with compact to vining growth, single-to double-petal flowers and many colors.
Marigolds
The Clemson Cooperative Extension notes that marigolds are very successful in home gardens with good hardiness and disease resistance. Marigolds grow in dwarf and large sizes ranging from 6 inches to 3 feet in height, depending on cultivar. Marigolds always bloom in oranges, yellows and reds.
Growing Season
Petunias and marigolds are annuals growing and blooming from spring to fall with the right care. As annuals, both plants fade and die in frost, requiring replanting in spring. Gardeners in U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can maintain both varieties through winter in the absence of frost.
Site Requirements
Marigolds and petunias both do best in full sun and rich, dark soil. Both plants need quick drainage and grow well in the same beds. Amending the soil with organic compost and 5-10-5 fertilizer before planting gives the plants nutrition. Plant them according to cultivar-specific spacing and depth needs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Powdery mildew is a common problem in areas that have high humidity. It can affect almost any type of plant, appearing on leaves, flowers, fruits and vegetables. A white or gray powder coats the surface of the plant. If left untreated, it can turn more severe, causing leaves to turn yellow or brown. Many people look to a homemade cure for powdery mildew before turning to fungicides. However, finding a powdery mildew homemade preventer is preferable.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
Prevention of Powdery Mildew
The best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. Be sure to start with healthy plants. One powdery mildew homemade preventer is to simply prune back any dead plant material during the normal pruning time. Do not plant things too close together, to allow ample air circulation around the plants. It is important to not plant in damp shady areas, as that is a prime location for powdery mildew. Another powdery mildew homemade preventer is to avoid using the sprinklers in the evening, so the water doesn’t stand on the leaves too long. The water itself doesn’t cause more mildew, but it allows it to be transported to the other leaves on the plant easier.
Organic Removal of Powdery Mildew
When prevention fails, it is a good idea to try organic removal of powdery mildew first. If you have a case of powdery mildew, be sure not to compost the infected plant parts. There are a few options to try when trying a homemade cure for powdery mildew. One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide (9 parts water to 1 part hydrogen peroxide). Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants.
There are even some plants, such as the lilac, that can have the powdery mildew on it and it doesn’t hurt the plant that much. So using a homemade cure for powdery mildew on the hardier plants isn’t necessary. Another thing to remember is that if one type of plant gets it, that particular strain of powdery mildew won’t transfer to the other types of plants. For example, it won’t go from the roses to the lilacs, just to the other roses. The best powdery mildew homemade preventer is maintain the proper moisture level, without raising the humidity around the plants too high. This, along with careful annual pruning, will go a long way toward keeping your plants healthy and beautiful.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Bacterial soft rot disease is an infection that can devastate a crop of fleshy vegetables such as carrots, onions, tomatoes and cucumbers, though it is most widely known for its attacks on potatoes. Soft rot disease is most easily recognized in these vegetables by soft, wet, cream to tan colored flesh surrounded by a dark brown to black ring. When conditions are right, these necrotic spots begin on the outside or skin of the potato and works inward. Initially, there is no odor, but as the soft rot disease progresses, secondary infections invade and the blackened potato emits a foul smell. These symptoms are similar in most other affected plants as well with small, water-soaked, translucent spots on leaves, stems or underground parts.
What is Bacterial Soft Rot?
Soft rot bacteria, or Erwinia cartovorum is, unfortunately, found everywhere. It survives in soil and water sources, even oceans, and is found all over the globe. Almost all commercial crops are affected to some degree by soft rot. Bacteria in the home garden can be introduced by insects, wind blown rain, or leftovers from the previous year’s crop. One of the most common culprits on potatoes is the seed potato itself. The soft rot bacteria can be found on almost all tubers but most commonly affects potatoes. The infection occurs through skin damage due to growth cracks or injury and high soil temperatures combined with excess water provides the perfect growing conditions. Very often, signs of bacterial soft rot will not occur until after harvest. This is largely due to improper handling of the newly harvested potatoes. There is no completely effective soft rot treatment, but there are things you can do to minimize the damage.
Tips for Controlling Soft Rot Bacteria
Once soft rot bacteria have infected plants in the garden, there is no effective treatment. You will need to remove and dispose of infected plants as soon as possible to avoid further damage to other plants. Prevention is key in controlling soft rot bacteria. The following steps can be taken to help avoid this problem in the garden: Avoid wet conditions. Make sure plants are in well-draining soil and properly spaced. Keep track of watering to prevent too much moisture. Rotate crops with rot-resistant vegetables. Crop rotation goes a long way in managing or preventing problems in the garden. When rotating crops, select varieties that are less susceptible to soft rot like corn, snap beans and beets. If you have had previous issues with soft rot disease in the past, wait at least three years before growing susceptible crops in that area. Use caution during garden maintenance. As you go about normal weeding tasks, or even harvesting, take care not to damage plants or veggies. Harvest only when conditions are dry and closely examine vegetables for any signs of problems that may affect storage, which should be in a cool, dry and well ventilated location. Keep the garden and tools clean. Be sure to clean garden tools thoroughly before and after use to avoid spreading any potential disease and always remove any infected/damaged plant debris remaining in your garden once the season is over.
What is Bacterial Soft Rot?
Soft rot bacteria, or Erwinia cartovorum is, unfortunately, found everywhere. It survives in soil and water sources, even oceans, and is found all over the globe. Almost all commercial crops are affected to some degree by soft rot. Bacteria in the home garden can be introduced by insects, wind blown rain, or leftovers from the previous year’s crop. One of the most common culprits on potatoes is the seed potato itself. The soft rot bacteria can be found on almost all tubers but most commonly affects potatoes. The infection occurs through skin damage due to growth cracks or injury and high soil temperatures combined with excess water provides the perfect growing conditions. Very often, signs of bacterial soft rot will not occur until after harvest. This is largely due to improper handling of the newly harvested potatoes. There is no completely effective soft rot treatment, but there are things you can do to minimize the damage.
Tips for Controlling Soft Rot Bacteria
Once soft rot bacteria have infected plants in the garden, there is no effective treatment. You will need to remove and dispose of infected plants as soon as possible to avoid further damage to other plants. Prevention is key in controlling soft rot bacteria. The following steps can be taken to help avoid this problem in the garden: Avoid wet conditions. Make sure plants are in well-draining soil and properly spaced. Keep track of watering to prevent too much moisture. Rotate crops with rot-resistant vegetables. Crop rotation goes a long way in managing or preventing problems in the garden. When rotating crops, select varieties that are less susceptible to soft rot like corn, snap beans and beets. If you have had previous issues with soft rot disease in the past, wait at least three years before growing susceptible crops in that area. Use caution during garden maintenance. As you go about normal weeding tasks, or even harvesting, take care not to damage plants or veggies. Harvest only when conditions are dry and closely examine vegetables for any signs of problems that may affect storage, which should be in a cool, dry and well ventilated location. Keep the garden and tools clean. Be sure to clean garden tools thoroughly before and after use to avoid spreading any potential disease and always remove any infected/damaged plant debris remaining in your garden once the season is over.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Crown rot commonly affects many types of plants in the garden, including vegetables. However, it can also be a problem with trees and shrubs as well and is oftentimes detrimental to the plants. So what exactly is this and how do you stop crown rot before it is too late?
What is Crown Rot Disease?
Crown rot is a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus which can survive in the soil indefinitely. This fungal disease is often favored by wet conditions and heavy soils. While symptoms may vary from plant to plant, there is often little you can do once the disease occurs.
Signs of Crown Rot Disease
While the crown or lower stem of plants affected by this disease may exhibit dry rotting at or near the soil line, most other symptoms often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. Rotting may appear on one side or only on lateral branches at first and eventually spreads to the rest of the plant. Infected areas may be discolored, usually tan or dark colored, which is indicative of dead tissue. As crown rot progresses, the plant will begin to wilt and quickly die, with younger plants being more susceptible to death. Foliage may yellow or even turn a red to purplish color as well. In some cases, plant growth may become stunted, yet the plants may still continue to put out blooms, albeit few. Tree may develop dark areas on the bark around the crown with dark sap oozing from the edges of the diseased area.
How Do You Stop Crown Rot?
Crown rot treatment is difficult, especially if it’s not caught early enough, which is often the case. Usually, there’s little you can do to save plants, so prevention is important. Once the first signs of crown rot are noticed, it’s best to simply pull the infected plants and discard them promptly. You’ll also need to sanitize the area and surrounding soil to keep the disease from spreading to nearby plants. Amending heavy, clay soil will help with any drainage issues that normally encourage this disease. Avoiding overly wet soil around plants and trees is important. Water plants only when necessary, allowing at least the top inch or so of soil to dry out between watering intervals. When you do irrigate, water deeply, which will allow plant roots to benefit the most while allowing you to water less often. Rotating vegetable crops, like tomatoes, every couple of seasons can help too. Trees will usually not survive either, depending on how bad they’re affected. However, you can try cutting away the affected bark and removing the soil from base of the tree down to the main roots to allow the crown to dry out. The use of fungicide can help prevent the disease but is usually ineffective once it’s completely taken hold. Captan or Aliette are most often used. Drench the soil (2 tbsp. to 1 gal. of water) while somewhat dry to allow the fungicide to penetrate well. Repeat this twice at 30-day intervals.
What is Crown Rot Disease?
Crown rot is a disease caused by a soil-borne fungus which can survive in the soil indefinitely. This fungal disease is often favored by wet conditions and heavy soils. While symptoms may vary from plant to plant, there is often little you can do once the disease occurs.
Signs of Crown Rot Disease
While the crown or lower stem of plants affected by this disease may exhibit dry rotting at or near the soil line, most other symptoms often go unnoticed—until it’s too late. Rotting may appear on one side or only on lateral branches at first and eventually spreads to the rest of the plant. Infected areas may be discolored, usually tan or dark colored, which is indicative of dead tissue. As crown rot progresses, the plant will begin to wilt and quickly die, with younger plants being more susceptible to death. Foliage may yellow or even turn a red to purplish color as well. In some cases, plant growth may become stunted, yet the plants may still continue to put out blooms, albeit few. Tree may develop dark areas on the bark around the crown with dark sap oozing from the edges of the diseased area.
How Do You Stop Crown Rot?
Crown rot treatment is difficult, especially if it’s not caught early enough, which is often the case. Usually, there’s little you can do to save plants, so prevention is important. Once the first signs of crown rot are noticed, it’s best to simply pull the infected plants and discard them promptly. You’ll also need to sanitize the area and surrounding soil to keep the disease from spreading to nearby plants. Amending heavy, clay soil will help with any drainage issues that normally encourage this disease. Avoiding overly wet soil around plants and trees is important. Water plants only when necessary, allowing at least the top inch or so of soil to dry out between watering intervals. When you do irrigate, water deeply, which will allow plant roots to benefit the most while allowing you to water less often. Rotating vegetable crops, like tomatoes, every couple of seasons can help too. Trees will usually not survive either, depending on how bad they’re affected. However, you can try cutting away the affected bark and removing the soil from base of the tree down to the main roots to allow the crown to dry out. The use of fungicide can help prevent the disease but is usually ineffective once it’s completely taken hold. Captan or Aliette are most often used. Drench the soil (2 tbsp. to 1 gal. of water) while somewhat dry to allow the fungicide to penetrate well. Repeat this twice at 30-day intervals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Also called Staghead or white blister, white rust disease affects cruciferous plants. These plants are all members of the cabbage family (Brassicaceae) and include such vegetables as broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and kale and can ruin your crop.
White Rust Disease – What is White Rust?
What is white rust? It’s a disease that causes distinctive chalky white spore masses sometimes referred to as pustules that first show up on the underside of leaves. These blister-like masses, called sori, form under the leaf’s dermis (skin) and can’t be scraped off without damaging the leaf. The stem and leaves can become twisted and deformed. White rust disease can and will infect the floral parts as well. Broccoli and cauliflower, in particular, will produce grossly deformed heads and for those gardeners who collect seed for the following year’s planting, those seeds will be sterile. White rust is one of several species of the fungus Albugo. It commonly occurs when nights are cool and damp and days are warm. The perfect time for growing cruciferous vegetables also provides the perfect growing conditions for Albugo. Controlling white rust fungus would be easy if we could control those spring and fall temperatures since it flourishes between 57°F. and 68°F. (14° to 20°C.). Unfortunately, we can’t control temperature any more than we can control the spring rains or the dewy mornings this fungus adores.
White Rust Treatment
If your garden has been plagued by white rust disease in the past, you should look for resistant strains in the future. There are no fungicides specific to white rust treatment and once the disease becomes rampant, there is little to be done. That being said, fungicides used to treat downy mildew are sometimes effective against white rust, particularly the more leafy crops. Treatment must begin at the first signs of infection. The methods for controlling white rust fungus or how to prevent white rust are largely organic. The control of white rust fungus depends on the understanding of the life cycle of fungi in general. Fungi reproduce by producing spores, tiny microscopic cells, each of which is capable of becoming a fungi and thus establishing a new colony — what we see on the leaf or stem. Because of their minuscule size, these spores are carried easily from plant to plant, or garden to garden, by wind or water. Because of a protective coating, many of these spores can lay dormant for long periods of time, surviving in both cold and arid conditions. When conditions are right again, they ‘blossom.’ The secret to how to prevent white rust is two-fold. First is the removal of the places where the spores hide. Garden debris should never be left to overwinter. Even plant growth that looks healthy may be harboring spores waiting to spread the disease the following spring. Obviously infected debris should be disposed of away from the garden area. As it is almost impossible to collect and destroy every scrap of debris, consider tilling it under as another form of white rust treatment. While tilling won’t destroy the spores, it can prevent them from being exposed to the growing conditions they require.
he second step in controlling white rust fungus is crop rotation. Infected beds should not be replanted with cruciferous vegetables for at least three years. Remember, good garden housekeeping is essential in controlling white rust fungus as well as many other garden diseases; therefore, it should be a regular part of your gardening calendar. That old adage remains true: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
White Rust Disease – What is White Rust?
What is white rust? It’s a disease that causes distinctive chalky white spore masses sometimes referred to as pustules that first show up on the underside of leaves. These blister-like masses, called sori, form under the leaf’s dermis (skin) and can’t be scraped off without damaging the leaf. The stem and leaves can become twisted and deformed. White rust disease can and will infect the floral parts as well. Broccoli and cauliflower, in particular, will produce grossly deformed heads and for those gardeners who collect seed for the following year’s planting, those seeds will be sterile. White rust is one of several species of the fungus Albugo. It commonly occurs when nights are cool and damp and days are warm. The perfect time for growing cruciferous vegetables also provides the perfect growing conditions for Albugo. Controlling white rust fungus would be easy if we could control those spring and fall temperatures since it flourishes between 57°F. and 68°F. (14° to 20°C.). Unfortunately, we can’t control temperature any more than we can control the spring rains or the dewy mornings this fungus adores.
White Rust Treatment
If your garden has been plagued by white rust disease in the past, you should look for resistant strains in the future. There are no fungicides specific to white rust treatment and once the disease becomes rampant, there is little to be done. That being said, fungicides used to treat downy mildew are sometimes effective against white rust, particularly the more leafy crops. Treatment must begin at the first signs of infection. The methods for controlling white rust fungus or how to prevent white rust are largely organic. The control of white rust fungus depends on the understanding of the life cycle of fungi in general. Fungi reproduce by producing spores, tiny microscopic cells, each of which is capable of becoming a fungi and thus establishing a new colony — what we see on the leaf or stem. Because of their minuscule size, these spores are carried easily from plant to plant, or garden to garden, by wind or water. Because of a protective coating, many of these spores can lay dormant for long periods of time, surviving in both cold and arid conditions. When conditions are right again, they ‘blossom.’ The secret to how to prevent white rust is two-fold. First is the removal of the places where the spores hide. Garden debris should never be left to overwinter. Even plant growth that looks healthy may be harboring spores waiting to spread the disease the following spring. Obviously infected debris should be disposed of away from the garden area. As it is almost impossible to collect and destroy every scrap of debris, consider tilling it under as another form of white rust treatment. While tilling won’t destroy the spores, it can prevent them from being exposed to the growing conditions they require.
he second step in controlling white rust fungus is crop rotation. Infected beds should not be replanted with cruciferous vegetables for at least three years. Remember, good garden housekeeping is essential in controlling white rust fungus as well as many other garden diseases; therefore, it should be a regular part of your gardening calendar. That old adage remains true: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
There is a fungus among us and its name is Fusarium. This soil-borne pathogen attacks many types of plants, with ornamental flowers and some vegetables topping the list. Fusarium fungus can survive indefinitely, affecting any crop or plant that is contaminated by the soil. The fungus produces Fusarium wilt disease, which is also called “yellows.” This self- explanatory name indicates the major symptom of the disease. In crop and greenhouse settings, controlling Fusarium wilt is of primary importance, as it has the capacity to run rampant among closely grown plants. About Fusarium Fungus The fungus attacks plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes and peppers. It is also found in greenhouse flowers and some trees. 
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
Fusarium enters the roots of young plants and the organism blocks vessels in the cells. Once blocked, the cells cannot transport water and nutrients to the plant. The wilting symptom is one of the first signs that the pathogen is present. Fusarium wilt disease then progresses to faded, yellowed foliage and stunted growth. The worst signs are during the day in sunlight, but the plant may seem to recover in the dark. Over time, many plants succumb and die, while others just perform poorly and produce few flowers or fruit. Because of the contagious and tenacious nature of the fungus, control of Fusarium should start with a few evasive procedures. Preventing the fungal wilt is preferable to most Fusarium wilt treatments. Controlling Fusarium Wilt Fusarium is most prevalent in warm soils. It is harbored in old plant debris and soil. The best way to prevent infection in your crops or plants is rotation and sterilization.
Never plant the same crop in the same place annually. Pots should be sterilized with a bleach solution and new soil used when reusing them. You can also solarize beds, by spreading black plastic over an area in full sun for a month to kill the fungus. This causes extreme high temperatures that will “cook” the fungus and provide good control of Fusarium. Wash off tillage equipment, shoes and other tools that might have encountered infected soil. Remove all old plant debris annually and if you think it might be contaminated, burn it. Do not compost contaminated material as this provides an ideal incubation condition for propagating the fungus. Fusarium Wilt Treatment There are fumigants that are useful against Fusarium fungus. Many of these require a professional for application so read the instructions carefully before you purchase.
Fungicides are used as a root or bulb soak. Simply remove the soil from around the roots, bulb, corm or tuber and rinse completely. Then soak the roots or storage organs in a bucket of fresh water with the appropriate amount of a fungicide. Controlling Fusarium fungus in the garden relies upon crop rotations and clean and sanitary practices. Always inspect new plants before you purchase them. Remember, prevention is the best method of control of Fusarium and many other plant diseases.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
By Mary H. Dyer, Master Naturalist and Master Gardener What is clubroot? This difficult disease is caused by a soilborne fungus that affects cruciferous vegetables like: Broccoli Cauliflower Cabbage Turnips Mustard Clubroot is particularly nasty because it can live in the soil for as long as seven to 10 years, making the area unfit for growing susceptible plants. Symptoms of Clubroot The primary symptoms of clubroot include enlarged, deformed, club-shaped roots and stunted growth. Eventually, the swollen roots turn black and develop a rotten aroma. In some cases, the disease may cause wilted, yellowing or purple foliage, although the disease isn’t always apparent above the ground.
Clubroot Control Clubroot is extremely difficult to manage and the best way to control its spread is to rotate crops, which means not planting cruciferous plants in the same area more than once every three or four years. Clubroot thrives in acidic soil, so raising the pH to at least 7.2 may be one of the most effective means of attaining clubroot control. Ohio State University Extension advises that calcitic lime is the best way to raise the pH, unless your soil is low in magnesium. In this case, dolomitic lime may be more effective. If possible, lime the soil at least six weeks before planting time. Be careful not to raise the pH too high, as highly alkaline soil may affect the growth of non-cruciferous plants. To prevent transmission of spores to uninfected areas, be sure to clean and disinfect garden tools and machinery after working in infected soil. Never invite trouble by moving infected plants or contaminated soil from one planting area to another (including the mud on the soles of your shoes).
Take necessary steps to prevent soil run-off during rainfall. According to Ohio State University, certain fungicides may help to reduce development of clubroot disease. Your local Cooperative Extension Office can offer advice for your specific situation. Otherwise, there are no chemicals approved for clubroot treatment. Care for Plants with Clubroot If your garden soil is affected with clubroot, the only recourse is to pull and discard plants as soon as possible, as aggressive action is the only way to discourage spread of the disease.
Dig around the plant and remove the entire root system to prevent the roots from breaking up and spreading the disease. Discard the plants properly and never put them on your compost pile. Next year, consider starting your own cruciferous plants from seed, using a sterile commercial potting soil. This is the best way to ensure you aren’t introducing the disease from an outside source. If you purchase seedlings, be sure to buy only plants that are guaranteed to be clubroot-free. Once again, be sure to rotate crops regularly.
Clubroot Control Clubroot is extremely difficult to manage and the best way to control its spread is to rotate crops, which means not planting cruciferous plants in the same area more than once every three or four years. Clubroot thrives in acidic soil, so raising the pH to at least 7.2 may be one of the most effective means of attaining clubroot control. Ohio State University Extension advises that calcitic lime is the best way to raise the pH, unless your soil is low in magnesium. In this case, dolomitic lime may be more effective. If possible, lime the soil at least six weeks before planting time. Be careful not to raise the pH too high, as highly alkaline soil may affect the growth of non-cruciferous plants. To prevent transmission of spores to uninfected areas, be sure to clean and disinfect garden tools and machinery after working in infected soil. Never invite trouble by moving infected plants or contaminated soil from one planting area to another (including the mud on the soles of your shoes).
Take necessary steps to prevent soil run-off during rainfall. According to Ohio State University, certain fungicides may help to reduce development of clubroot disease. Your local Cooperative Extension Office can offer advice for your specific situation. Otherwise, there are no chemicals approved for clubroot treatment. Care for Plants with Clubroot If your garden soil is affected with clubroot, the only recourse is to pull and discard plants as soon as possible, as aggressive action is the only way to discourage spread of the disease.
Dig around the plant and remove the entire root system to prevent the roots from breaking up and spreading the disease. Discard the plants properly and never put them on your compost pile. Next year, consider starting your own cruciferous plants from seed, using a sterile commercial potting soil. This is the best way to ensure you aren’t introducing the disease from an outside source. If you purchase seedlings, be sure to buy only plants that are guaranteed to be clubroot-free. Once again, be sure to rotate crops regularly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica rapa Rapifera Group
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Turnips are cool-weather vegetables that can be grow in both spring and in fall, avoiding the hot summer months. They mature very rapidly and you can enjoy both the greens and the roots. Try this ancient root vegetable that’s been grown for over 3,000 years.
Turnips are hardy biennials usually grown as annuals by the home gardener. We enjoy them most as an autumn crop, seeded in late summer, because they are usually sweeter and more tender than spring crops—and pests are less problematic.
What’s wonderful about turnips is that they germinate in only a few days. Within a month, you can enjoy their bright greens, and within a second month, you can eat the swollen roots. Try them as a substitute for potatoes.
PLANTING
When to Seed
For a late spring harvest, sow turnip seeds directly in the garden as soon as the ground is workable, usually 2 to 3 weeks before the average last frost date.
For an autumn harvest, sow turnips in late summer. Sow after summer crops of onions, squash, beans or sweet corn.
You can also sow seeds in early autumn for a late autumn harvest.
Planting Instructions
Turnips are seeded directly into the ground; they do not transplant well.
Select a site that gets full sun.
Soil should be well-draining and loosened to a depth of 12 to 15 inches.
In advance, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure. Add sand to heavy, clay soil.
Scatter turnip seed. Do not cover the seeds with more than ½ an inch of soil.
Once seedlings are 4 inches high, thin them to 4 to 6 inches apart. Space wide rows 12 inches apart.
Thin turnips grown for greens from 2 to 3 inches apart (or, some of us don’t bother thinning for greens at all).
CARE
Keep the beds weed free.
Mulch heavily.
Turnips do not need much care but consistent soil moisture is important. Keep soil lightly moist, watering at a rate of 1 inch per week to prevent the roots from becoming tough and bitter.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Downy Mildew
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Turnips are cool-weather vegetables that can be grow in both spring and in fall, avoiding the hot summer months. They mature very rapidly and you can enjoy both the greens and the roots. Try this ancient root vegetable that’s been grown for over 3,000 years.
Turnips are hardy biennials usually grown as annuals by the home gardener. We enjoy them most as an autumn crop, seeded in late summer, because they are usually sweeter and more tender than spring crops—and pests are less problematic.
What’s wonderful about turnips is that they germinate in only a few days. Within a month, you can enjoy their bright greens, and within a second month, you can eat the swollen roots. Try them as a substitute for potatoes.
PLANTING
When to Seed
For a late spring harvest, sow turnip seeds directly in the garden as soon as the ground is workable, usually 2 to 3 weeks before the average last frost date.
For an autumn harvest, sow turnips in late summer. Sow after summer crops of onions, squash, beans or sweet corn.
You can also sow seeds in early autumn for a late autumn harvest.
Planting Instructions
Turnips are seeded directly into the ground; they do not transplant well.
Select a site that gets full sun.
Soil should be well-draining and loosened to a depth of 12 to 15 inches.
In advance, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure. Add sand to heavy, clay soil.
Scatter turnip seed. Do not cover the seeds with more than ½ an inch of soil.
Once seedlings are 4 inches high, thin them to 4 to 6 inches apart. Space wide rows 12 inches apart.
Thin turnips grown for greens from 2 to 3 inches apart (or, some of us don’t bother thinning for greens at all).
CARE
Keep the beds weed free.
Mulch heavily.
Turnips do not need much care but consistent soil moisture is important. Keep soil lightly moist, watering at a rate of 1 inch per week to prevent the roots from becoming tough and bitter.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Downy Mildew
Aphids
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
To get the best results from your garden, including bountiful blooms, lush foliage and an abundance of fruit and vegetables, you've got to give your plants the foods they crave. But you don't have to turn to mystery chemicals to make your garden grow; you can choose safe, non-toxic fertilizers that work just as well. Organic plant food is made from natural sources including bone meal, fish emulsion and manure.
What makes plant food organic? Simply put, when plant food is described as organic, that means it comes from a plant or animal source rather than from a laboratory. Nearly any organic material can be used as plant food. The type of organic plant food that should be used depends on what you're growing, and the nutrients that are required by those plants.
Here are 5 common types of organic plant food, along with information that will help you decide which one is right for your needs.
1. Bone meal is made from steamed and crushed animal bones and is rich in phosphorous, a mineral that plants need for healthy root development and flower growth. It also supplies calcium and a little bit of nitrogen. That makes it a great supplement for bulbs and roses. A little bone meal goes a long way, with just one tablespoon needed for every two square feet.
2. Blood meal is an ideal natural source of nitrogen, which is the main nutrient that virtually all plants need to grow. Nitrogen is a crucial component of plant cells and one of the building blocks of chlorophyll, the substance that enables plants to convert sunlight into sugars. Blood meal increases the yield of fruits and vegetables, adding lots of leafy green growth, and can also help keep deer out of the garden.
3. Cottonseed meal is a slow-release organic fertilizer with high nitrogen content. A by-product of cotton manufacturing, this organic plant food is slightly acidic, so it's perfect for acid-loving plants like azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. It releases nutrients over an extended period of time. Cottonseed meal is a popular natural way to achieve lush green lawns.
4. Fish emulsion is a decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish left over from commercial processing, which contains a very high concentration of nitrogen. This powerful natural plant food can be used in very small quantities to give plants a major boost in growth, especially when applied early in the spring season. It does have a fish odor, but the smell goes away within about 24 hours.
5. Manure is perhaps the best-known organic plant food. Manure used as fertilizer may come from horses, cows, pigs, chicken or sheep. While applying manure to your plants may sound like a smelly and potentially unhygienic undertaking, commercially prepared manure plant food like Miracle-Gro Organic Choice is pasteurized in a unique process that kills harmful bacteria as well as weed seeds, reducing odors.
What makes plant food organic? Simply put, when plant food is described as organic, that means it comes from a plant or animal source rather than from a laboratory. Nearly any organic material can be used as plant food. The type of organic plant food that should be used depends on what you're growing, and the nutrients that are required by those plants.
Here are 5 common types of organic plant food, along with information that will help you decide which one is right for your needs.
1. Bone meal is made from steamed and crushed animal bones and is rich in phosphorous, a mineral that plants need for healthy root development and flower growth. It also supplies calcium and a little bit of nitrogen. That makes it a great supplement for bulbs and roses. A little bone meal goes a long way, with just one tablespoon needed for every two square feet.
2. Blood meal is an ideal natural source of nitrogen, which is the main nutrient that virtually all plants need to grow. Nitrogen is a crucial component of plant cells and one of the building blocks of chlorophyll, the substance that enables plants to convert sunlight into sugars. Blood meal increases the yield of fruits and vegetables, adding lots of leafy green growth, and can also help keep deer out of the garden.
3. Cottonseed meal is a slow-release organic fertilizer with high nitrogen content. A by-product of cotton manufacturing, this organic plant food is slightly acidic, so it's perfect for acid-loving plants like azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. It releases nutrients over an extended period of time. Cottonseed meal is a popular natural way to achieve lush green lawns.
4. Fish emulsion is a decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish left over from commercial processing, which contains a very high concentration of nitrogen. This powerful natural plant food can be used in very small quantities to give plants a major boost in growth, especially when applied early in the spring season. It does have a fish odor, but the smell goes away within about 24 hours.
5. Manure is perhaps the best-known organic plant food. Manure used as fertilizer may come from horses, cows, pigs, chicken or sheep. While applying manure to your plants may sound like a smelly and potentially unhygienic undertaking, commercially prepared manure plant food like Miracle-Gro Organic Choice is pasteurized in a unique process that kills harmful bacteria as well as weed seeds, reducing odors.
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Michub63：Hi. do you now something about EM?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年06月30日
Nickname upon food
The dish is also called mature, and secondly, beans, rouge, the purple leaf angle soft ginger, vine vegetable, vegetables, sunflower and other aliases Zhong rouge.
The growth habit of Chan food
The dish is comparison of plant tolerance to high temperature and high humidity, it is love loose fertile sandy soil. The requirement of illumination is not high, and the suitable temperature for growth is between 25 and 30 degrees, and the soil should be kept moist.
The food is generally sowing reproduction.
Upon the role of food
The dish has a certain role in the garden, the plants and flowers are lovely, can be used as a decorative window, etc..
However, its biggest use is to eat, often used as vegetables, the taste is very good.
When eating is picking it near the stem part of the stem and leaf shape, a bit like broccoli, green green. Leaves, leaves alternate, heart shaped, 8-15 cm long, 9-16 cm wide, 0.2 cm thick, fleshy, fleshy, smooth, glabrous, with a short handle, can grow massive axillary bulbils, 2-4 cm long, 1-3 cm wide.
The young leaves and shoots soft and smooth, suitable for the boiling water, it is rich in vitamin C, calcium and carotene, can heat, cooling blood, slippery bowel, detoxification, enjoyed "hundred dishes king" reputation. The Song Dynasty Su Dongpo praise it "seems to be the enemy Chun soup". "Guangdong language" that it "leaves and edible, slightly sour in taste, are advised to fish soup". But people think it is more Chan (mucus), "said Chan food derogatory". Guangdong folk in cooking practice, find a method to make dishes Chan Chan Chan, the vegetable broth is made out of soup, it cool sweet, soft and smooth, with heat dampness, facilitate the bowels of the power, for the summer when the delicious family soup.
The dish is also called mature, and secondly, beans, rouge, the purple leaf angle soft ginger, vine vegetable, vegetables, sunflower and other aliases Zhong rouge.
The growth habit of Chan food
The dish is comparison of plant tolerance to high temperature and high humidity, it is love loose fertile sandy soil. The requirement of illumination is not high, and the suitable temperature for growth is between 25 and 30 degrees, and the soil should be kept moist.
The food is generally sowing reproduction.
Upon the role of food
The dish has a certain role in the garden, the plants and flowers are lovely, can be used as a decorative window, etc..
However, its biggest use is to eat, often used as vegetables, the taste is very good.
When eating is picking it near the stem part of the stem and leaf shape, a bit like broccoli, green green. Leaves, leaves alternate, heart shaped, 8-15 cm long, 9-16 cm wide, 0.2 cm thick, fleshy, fleshy, smooth, glabrous, with a short handle, can grow massive axillary bulbils, 2-4 cm long, 1-3 cm wide.
The young leaves and shoots soft and smooth, suitable for the boiling water, it is rich in vitamin C, calcium and carotene, can heat, cooling blood, slippery bowel, detoxification, enjoyed "hundred dishes king" reputation. The Song Dynasty Su Dongpo praise it "seems to be the enemy Chun soup". "Guangdong language" that it "leaves and edible, slightly sour in taste, are advised to fish soup". But people think it is more Chan (mucus), "said Chan food derogatory". Guangdong folk in cooking practice, find a method to make dishes Chan Chan Chan, the vegetable broth is made out of soup, it cool sweet, soft and smooth, with heat dampness, facilitate the bowels of the power, for the summer when the delicious family soup.
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