文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Collard greens are lush, leafy vegetables that thrive in warm weather and serve as nutritious crops for a vegetable garden. Although they are cool-weather crops, tolerant of frost and averse to sweltering heat, collard greens are susceptible to bolting when temperatures are too low. When the flowering stalk shoots up from collards, optimal leaf flavor may be lost. All you can do to try to save the greens is cut the flowering stem.
Bolting
Bolting, or the development of a flowering stalk, occurs in all types of leafy vegetables for various reasons. As it occurs, the leaves diminish in size and grow bitter. Leaves grow inedible as energy flows to flowers and stalks. In the case of collard greens, bolting occurs when it is planted too early in spring, when temperatures are too cold. Some collard varieties are slow to bolt, including Georgia LS and Flash.
What to Do
The best advice when confronted with bolting collards is to immediately harvest the leaves or attempt to slow the bolting by removing the flower stalks. Bolting does not mean your harvest is lost, although it can diminish the collard greens' flavor. You will probably be unable to prevent the bolting from occurring, as it is a reaction to environmental conditions over time. The more a collard green plant develops its flower stalk, the less edible the greens will be, so it's beneficial to harvest as quick as possible to retain as much flavor and nutrition as possible.
Prevention
To prevent bolting, gowers must avoid planting collard greens, like any other cole crop, too early. Sow seeds in early spring to harvest in summer, or midway through summer for a fall/early winter harvest. Avoid planting if temperatures are expected to be below 50 F over an extended time. Select varieties of collards that are especially resistant to bolting, as listed above. Remove flowering stalks and stems as they emerge to encourage energy production in leaves.
Harvest
If all goes well, harvested collard greens will be smooth, large and nutritious. All green parts of the plant are edible. Collard greens are a low-calorie source of numerous minerals and vitamins including vitamins A, C and K. Tough and fibrous, they require lots of cooking, which turns their leaves dark green. You can harvest collard greens by cutting down entire plants or by pulling off large leaves as they develop.
Bolting
Bolting, or the development of a flowering stalk, occurs in all types of leafy vegetables for various reasons. As it occurs, the leaves diminish in size and grow bitter. Leaves grow inedible as energy flows to flowers and stalks. In the case of collard greens, bolting occurs when it is planted too early in spring, when temperatures are too cold. Some collard varieties are slow to bolt, including Georgia LS and Flash.
What to Do
The best advice when confronted with bolting collards is to immediately harvest the leaves or attempt to slow the bolting by removing the flower stalks. Bolting does not mean your harvest is lost, although it can diminish the collard greens' flavor. You will probably be unable to prevent the bolting from occurring, as it is a reaction to environmental conditions over time. The more a collard green plant develops its flower stalk, the less edible the greens will be, so it's beneficial to harvest as quick as possible to retain as much flavor and nutrition as possible.
Prevention
To prevent bolting, gowers must avoid planting collard greens, like any other cole crop, too early. Sow seeds in early spring to harvest in summer, or midway through summer for a fall/early winter harvest. Avoid planting if temperatures are expected to be below 50 F over an extended time. Select varieties of collards that are especially resistant to bolting, as listed above. Remove flowering stalks and stems as they emerge to encourage energy production in leaves.
Harvest
If all goes well, harvested collard greens will be smooth, large and nutritious. All green parts of the plant are edible. Collard greens are a low-calorie source of numerous minerals and vitamins including vitamins A, C and K. Tough and fibrous, they require lots of cooking, which turns their leaves dark green. You can harvest collard greens by cutting down entire plants or by pulling off large leaves as they develop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Carrots are sweet root vegetables that grow best in the early spring. The produce contains a high amount of vitamin A and fiber. Sometimes harvested carrots may not taste sweet. A bitter-tasting carrot may leave you feeling discouraged about growing your own carrots. Knowing why your carrots taste bitter can help you salvage your crops so that you can enjoy their pleasant and naturally sweet flavor.
High Temperatures
Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.
Aster Yellows Disease
Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young
Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right.
Improper Storage
After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
High Temperatures
Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.
Aster Yellows Disease
Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young
Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right.
Improper Storage
After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Sprout beans at home for a constant source of cheap and nutritious fresh vegetables. Home production using organic seeds purchased from a trusted source avoids the rare health concerns over mass-produced sprouts. Compare soy, mung, lentil and adzuki bean sprouts to learn their particular flavors. Wash your hands before handling sprouts, rinse thoroughly before eating and keep seeds in a cool and dry place.
Nutritional Values
Soy and mung bean sprouts are year-round sources of low-fat food that contain no cholesterol. They both contain B vitamins, including thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid and folic acid. They're also good sources of dietary fiber and vegetarian protein. Soybeans contain 20 to 25 percent vegetable protein; mung beans contain 22 percent. Six oz. of mung beans contain 60 calories and the same amount of soybeans has 200 calories. Both kinds of sprouts are at their most nutritious as soon as tiny green leaves show at the tips.
Growing Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Some beans are easier to sprout than others. Mung beans need eight to 12 hours of soaking, sprout in two to five days and keep for two to six weeks. Soybeans are more difficult to sprout, often splitting open, discoloring and developing a bitter taste if not used when very young. Soybeans require soaking for between two and four hours, sprout in two to six days, keep refrigerated for two to four weeks and yield double the amount of sprouts to beans.
Uses of Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Mung beans are the most common and easily available type of sprouts. They feature largely in Asian cuisines and have a sweet, nutty flavor and crisp texture. Uses include adding to cooked dishes at the end of the process. These thick-stemmed sprouts can withstand several minutes worth of cooking. Mung beans sprouts can be stir-fried or cooked in traditional Chinese dishes like chicken chow mein and chop suey, or eaten raw in salads and sandwiches. Soybeans have a more pronounced bean-like flavor and are often preferred cooked, even by enthusiastic sprout eaters. Soybeans are harder to digest when raw, so try cooking them in stews and soups, or adding to a stir-fry. Served raw or cooked, 12 oz. of either mung or soy bean sprouts are enough to serve in salads or as a side dish for between four and six guests. Rinse both types of sprouts well before cooking or eating raw.
Health Benefits
The benefits of mung beans are those associated with all bean sprouts. They contain the dietary necessities of fresh vegetable protein and fiber, as well as C and B vitamins. Soybean sprouts also confer the same protective benefits as other soy products like tofu, tempeh, soy milk and soy sauce. These benefits include possible reductions of the risk of heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol. In Asia, where consumption rates of soybean products are high, rates of prostrate and breast cancers are low. Active ingredients thought to be responsible for this protection action are the substances daidzein and genistein. Women with estrogen-positive breast cancer must avoid soybean sprouts, because they contain plant hormones that may stimulate the growth of their tumors.
Nutritional Values
Soy and mung bean sprouts are year-round sources of low-fat food that contain no cholesterol. They both contain B vitamins, including thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid and folic acid. They're also good sources of dietary fiber and vegetarian protein. Soybeans contain 20 to 25 percent vegetable protein; mung beans contain 22 percent. Six oz. of mung beans contain 60 calories and the same amount of soybeans has 200 calories. Both kinds of sprouts are at their most nutritious as soon as tiny green leaves show at the tips.
Growing Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Some beans are easier to sprout than others. Mung beans need eight to 12 hours of soaking, sprout in two to five days and keep for two to six weeks. Soybeans are more difficult to sprout, often splitting open, discoloring and developing a bitter taste if not used when very young. Soybeans require soaking for between two and four hours, sprout in two to six days, keep refrigerated for two to four weeks and yield double the amount of sprouts to beans.
Uses of Soybean and Mung Bean Sprouts
Mung beans are the most common and easily available type of sprouts. They feature largely in Asian cuisines and have a sweet, nutty flavor and crisp texture. Uses include adding to cooked dishes at the end of the process. These thick-stemmed sprouts can withstand several minutes worth of cooking. Mung beans sprouts can be stir-fried or cooked in traditional Chinese dishes like chicken chow mein and chop suey, or eaten raw in salads and sandwiches. Soybeans have a more pronounced bean-like flavor and are often preferred cooked, even by enthusiastic sprout eaters. Soybeans are harder to digest when raw, so try cooking them in stews and soups, or adding to a stir-fry. Served raw or cooked, 12 oz. of either mung or soy bean sprouts are enough to serve in salads or as a side dish for between four and six guests. Rinse both types of sprouts well before cooking or eating raw.
Health Benefits
The benefits of mung beans are those associated with all bean sprouts. They contain the dietary necessities of fresh vegetable protein and fiber, as well as C and B vitamins. Soybean sprouts also confer the same protective benefits as other soy products like tofu, tempeh, soy milk and soy sauce. These benefits include possible reductions of the risk of heart disease by lowering LDL cholesterol. In Asia, where consumption rates of soybean products are high, rates of prostrate and breast cancers are low. Active ingredients thought to be responsible for this protection action are the substances daidzein and genistein. Women with estrogen-positive breast cancer must avoid soybean sprouts, because they contain plant hormones that may stimulate the growth of their tumors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Fruit and vegetable gardens burst into bloom in spring and summer for eventual fruit harvest, but rarely consist of one specific plant variety. Gardeners plant a range of their favorite fruits and vegetables for wide, satisfying harvests. Warm-season plants like tomatoes and melons thrive together with the same temperature, sun, nutrition and water needs, but they require generous spacing for growth. Plant these crops at the same time, and with the same considerations.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
Step 1
Start tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes in mid-spring when the frost lifts. All three crops need starts at 60 degrees to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and die in frost. Start seedlings to give these long-season plants head starts on their growing seasons.
Step 2
Designate planting sites. Tomatoes and melons require adequate spacing for growth and fruit production. Choose sites with bright all-day sun and air circulation, and allot at least 5 to 6 square feet for each crop. Put the tomato plot on the southern or northern side of the garden to avoid shading out the lower-lying crops.
Step 3
Amend the soil through all three plots to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Dig 3 to 4 inches of organic compost into the topsoil to increase nutrition, drainage and moisture retention. Tomatoes, watermelons and cantaloupes are hungry, thirsty plants, and do best with rich, crumbly soil. Turn 6-24-24 or 8-32-16 fertilizer into the top 4 inches of soil throughout to encourage quick root establishment.
Step 4
Plant tomato seedlings 24 to 36 inches apart in a row. Space rows at 4 feet, and give each plant a vegetable cage for support. Plant watermelon seedlings at every 2 feet in the row, and cantaloupe seedlings at 18 to 24 inches in the row. Plant only one row of each variety of melon to minimize space usage. Each plant produces several melons.
Step 5
Give the garden 3 inches of water to settle the soil, and put the plants on a schedule of 2 inches of water every week. The plants cannot produce growth or fruit without adequate moisture. Lay 2 inches of mulch over the soil between the plantings to maintain moisture and warmth for the plants.
Step 6
Feed the plants with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer at mid-season to encourage best blooming and fruit production.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Gardeners have the option of growing vegetables that develop on annual vines. In some instances, the vines need sufficient room to spread out, but you can support some of these vegetable vines with stakes and grow them vertically. Some vining vegetables are native to North America and have a long history of cultivation on the continent. Others hail from other continents. Although some of these species may be fruits botanically, people use them as vegetables.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
Tomato plants (Lycopersicon lycopersicum) technically produce fruits, but people use the fruits as vegetables in salads and other dishes too numerous to list. Unfortunately, squirrels eat tomato fruits, too, passing up unripe green ones to eat only those that are ripe red. Foiling hungry squirrels is never simple. Tomato plants usually are grown as annuals.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Tomatoes are among the most popular vegetables to grow in the home garden. The two most common reasons for tomato failure in Kansas are planting them too early before temperatures are sufficiently warm, and not providing adequate moisture, especially during hot, windy weather. Kansas gardeners with sandy soils should monitor soil moisture frequently, since these soils tend to dry out quickly.
Step 1
Buy dark green, compact plants, selecting disease-resistant varieties if possible. Fusarium wilt is the most common tomato plant disease in Kansas, according to Kansas State University, while nematodes affect tomatoes in areas south of Interstate 70.
Step 2
Hand-broadcast a complete garden fertilizer on the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 lbs. per 100 square feet of soil. Dig the soil with a shovel to a depth of 8 inches or use a rototiller. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, which encourage lush vegetative growth with few fruits. The first number on the fertilizer box indicates the nitrogen level. It should be half the level of the other nutrients, i.e. 5-10-10.
Step 3
Plant tomatoes when the daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees F and all chance of frost is passed. According to Kansas State University, in southeastern Kansas, plant tomatoes early-to-mid April; in eastern and central Kansas, plant tomatoes from late April to early May. In northwest Kansas, plant tomatoes after May 15. Cover the tomatoes with a row cover or cloche if cold weather threatens.
Step 4
Water tomato plants at least weekly, as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Don't allow the soil to dry out between watering and avoid watering it until it is soggy, which contributes to blossom-end rot. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost, grass clippings or straw around the base of the plants to minimize weed growth and conserve moisture.
Step 5
Monitor tomato plants for disease and pest problems. Consult a local county extension office for help in identifying and treating specific problems. Good cultural practices, such as selecting disease-resistant plants and watering tomatoes evenly and consistently prevent many problems. Remove any dead or diseased plant material, hand-pick and destroy tomato hornworms and avoid the use of pesticides that kill ladybugs and lacewings, since these predatory insects help eliminate pests.
Step 6
Twist the tomatoes gently to remove them from the plants when they are ripe, or almost ripe (pink to bright red, depending on the variety). If a frost threatens, pick the green tomatoes and lay them in a single layer in a box. Place them in a cool, dark place, such as a basement, to ripen.
Step 1
Buy dark green, compact plants, selecting disease-resistant varieties if possible. Fusarium wilt is the most common tomato plant disease in Kansas, according to Kansas State University, while nematodes affect tomatoes in areas south of Interstate 70.
Step 2
Hand-broadcast a complete garden fertilizer on the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 lbs. per 100 square feet of soil. Dig the soil with a shovel to a depth of 8 inches or use a rototiller. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, which encourage lush vegetative growth with few fruits. The first number on the fertilizer box indicates the nitrogen level. It should be half the level of the other nutrients, i.e. 5-10-10.
Step 3
Plant tomatoes when the daytime temperatures are above 70 degrees F and all chance of frost is passed. According to Kansas State University, in southeastern Kansas, plant tomatoes early-to-mid April; in eastern and central Kansas, plant tomatoes from late April to early May. In northwest Kansas, plant tomatoes after May 15. Cover the tomatoes with a row cover or cloche if cold weather threatens.
Step 4
Water tomato plants at least weekly, as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Don't allow the soil to dry out between watering and avoid watering it until it is soggy, which contributes to blossom-end rot. Apply a 2- to 3-inch layer of compost, grass clippings or straw around the base of the plants to minimize weed growth and conserve moisture.
Step 5
Monitor tomato plants for disease and pest problems. Consult a local county extension office for help in identifying and treating specific problems. Good cultural practices, such as selecting disease-resistant plants and watering tomatoes evenly and consistently prevent many problems. Remove any dead or diseased plant material, hand-pick and destroy tomato hornworms and avoid the use of pesticides that kill ladybugs and lacewings, since these predatory insects help eliminate pests.
Step 6
Twist the tomatoes gently to remove them from the plants when they are ripe, or almost ripe (pink to bright red, depending on the variety). If a frost threatens, pick the green tomatoes and lay them in a single layer in a box. Place them in a cool, dark place, such as a basement, to ripen.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Tomatoes are one of the most commonly grown vegetables at home, in part because they are considered relatively low-maintenance vegetables. Still, their being low maintenance does not make them immune to damage incurred from natural conditions such as extreme temperature changes. A failure to protect your tomato plants from such conditions can result in poor-quality fruit yield come harvest time.
Tomatoes and Temperature
Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator.
Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes
To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars.
Spotting a Mealy Tomato
Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf.
Other Considerations
If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.
Tomatoes and Temperature
Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator.
Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes
To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars.
Spotting a Mealy Tomato
Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf.
Other Considerations
If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
When the weather suddenly skyrockets with temperatures above 85 F. (29 C.), many plants will inevitably suffer from ill effects. However, with adequate care of outdoor plants in extreme heat, the effects of heat stress on plants, including vegetables, can be minimized.
How Plants Cope with Heat
So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather
The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
How Plants Cope with Heat
So how do plants cope with heat once temperatures begin to soar? While some plants, like succulents, are well equipped with handling heat by conserving water in their fleshy leaves, the majority of plants do not have this luxury. Therefore, they will normally suffer from the in heat some way or other. Generally, heat stress of a plant will show itself by wilting, which is a sure sign that water loss has taken place. If this is ignored, the condition will worsen, as the plants will eventually dry up, turning a crunchy brown before dying. In some cases, yellowing of the leaves may occur.
Heat stress of a plant can also be recognized by leaf drop, especially in trees. Many plants will actually shed some of their foliage in an attempt to conserve water. In excessively hot weather, many vegetable crops have difficulty producing. Plants like tomatoes, squash, peppers, melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, and beans will usually drop their blossoms in high temps, while cool-season crops, like broccoli, will bolt. Blossom end rot is also common during hot weather and most prevalent in tomatoes, peppers, and squash.
How to Care for Plants in Hot Weather
The care of plants and flowers in hot weather is pretty much the same with exception to container plants, or those that have been newly planted. Of course, additional watering is a given, with new and potted plants requiring even more irrigation. In addition to watering more often, mulching plants can help conserve moisture and keep plants cooler. The use of shade covers, especially on vegetable crops, may be helpful as well.
Container plants will require daily watering, even twice a day in high temperatures. These plants should be given a thorough soaking until water can be seen coming out from the drainage holes. Placing water granules in pots also helps. As these will gradually soak up excess water, in times of dryness, the granules will slowly release some of this water back into the soil. Moving potted plants to a shadier location during the heat of the day is also recommended.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
In many parts of the country, gardeners have considerable anxiety when summer temperatures rise, especially when they rise in combination with low rainfall amounts. While some vegetables suffer more than others, all feel some degree of stress with rising temperatures. Dealing with heat stress can be frustrating for gardeners, so it’s important to find ways for protecting plants in scorching temps. Keep reading to learn more about how to protect vegetables in hot weather.
Continued exposure to high temperatures can cause leaf scorch, leaf drop and even leaf sunburn. In addition, high temperatures interfere with photosynthesis and can cause a buildup of toxins in plants. Plants that are stressed because of the heat may develop misshapen or bitter fruit. Gardeners need to know how to protect vegetables in hot weather in order to avoid irreversible damage.
Protecting Plants in Scorching Temps
One of the most popular ways of protecting plants in the summer heat is by using a shade cloth for gardens. A simple garden shade cloth can be strung between supports or a more elaborate structure can be constructed in areas that are prone to oppressive heat. Trellises and pergolas can also help create shade to protect plants during the hottest time of the day.
In addition, providing plenty of water during times of high heat is useful in dealing with heat stress. It is best to use a drip irrigation system and check this regularly to be sure that all plants are being fed an adequate supply of water. A misting system is also useful and helps reduce plant tissue temperature. Keeping plants well hydrated gives them the ammunition that they need to fight off the stress caused by scorching temperatures. You should provide mulch around plants to help with moisture retention as well when protecting plants in scorching temps.
Healthy Plants Do Best When Dealing with Heat Stress
One of the best ways to protect your plants from extremely high temperatures is to be sure that you provide all of the nutrients necessary for them to be healthy. Rich organic soil, organic fertilizer, plenty of water and lots of TLC will keep your veggie garden ready to stand when the high temperatures hit.
Continued exposure to high temperatures can cause leaf scorch, leaf drop and even leaf sunburn. In addition, high temperatures interfere with photosynthesis and can cause a buildup of toxins in plants. Plants that are stressed because of the heat may develop misshapen or bitter fruit. Gardeners need to know how to protect vegetables in hot weather in order to avoid irreversible damage.
Protecting Plants in Scorching Temps
One of the most popular ways of protecting plants in the summer heat is by using a shade cloth for gardens. A simple garden shade cloth can be strung between supports or a more elaborate structure can be constructed in areas that are prone to oppressive heat. Trellises and pergolas can also help create shade to protect plants during the hottest time of the day.
In addition, providing plenty of water during times of high heat is useful in dealing with heat stress. It is best to use a drip irrigation system and check this regularly to be sure that all plants are being fed an adequate supply of water. A misting system is also useful and helps reduce plant tissue temperature. Keeping plants well hydrated gives them the ammunition that they need to fight off the stress caused by scorching temperatures. You should provide mulch around plants to help with moisture retention as well when protecting plants in scorching temps.
Healthy Plants Do Best When Dealing with Heat Stress
One of the best ways to protect your plants from extremely high temperatures is to be sure that you provide all of the nutrients necessary for them to be healthy. Rich organic soil, organic fertilizer, plenty of water and lots of TLC will keep your veggie garden ready to stand when the high temperatures hit.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Yellow/ brown patches on lawns. Wilting plants and damaged leaves on garden shrubs, vegetables and immature trees.
Plants affected
Chafer larvae attack the roots of lawns and some ornamental plants, fruit and vegetables, while adult chafers feed on the leaves of a range of different shrubs, plants and immature deciduous trees. However the adults rarely cause much damage.
About Chafer grubs
Adult chafers range in size, the biggest at 30mm in length being the Cockchafer, and the smallest the Welsh chafer at 11mm.
The adult chafers are mainly reddish brown in colour with distinctive large antennae.
Chafers have strong, hard cases that protect their delicate wings, when in flight these cases make a distinctive whirring sound.
The creamy, white larvae or grubs are often found curled up just below the soil surface, feeding especially on roots, mainly in August and September.
Larvae have distinctive grey ends to their abdomens, and brown heads.
Some species remain as larvae for up to three years.
Plant damage is mostly caused by the larvae although the adults can also seriously damage the upper parts of the plants.
Chafers overwinter below ground as pupae and the adults emerge in spring.
Adults often return to the same location to lay their eggs over a two week period during early summer.
Chafer predators such as foxes, badgers, rooks, crows, jays and magpies often damage lawns and community greens searching for grubs.
Treatment
Organic
Try natural pest controls, such as the parasitic nematode, Heterorhabditis megidis.
Where possible eradicate the larval stages by lifting sections of turf and disposing of the larvae.
Encourage birds that prey on the beetles and their larvae.
Use barrier methods such as fleece, to keep adults away from plants at risk.
Prevention
Check regularly for signs of chafer infestation and quickly deal with them.
Scarify and aerate lawns in autumn.
Where lawns have a history of infestation try to compress the turf by rolling it heavily during spring.
Plants affected
Chafer larvae attack the roots of lawns and some ornamental plants, fruit and vegetables, while adult chafers feed on the leaves of a range of different shrubs, plants and immature deciduous trees. However the adults rarely cause much damage.
About Chafer grubs
Adult chafers range in size, the biggest at 30mm in length being the Cockchafer, and the smallest the Welsh chafer at 11mm.
The adult chafers are mainly reddish brown in colour with distinctive large antennae.
Chafers have strong, hard cases that protect their delicate wings, when in flight these cases make a distinctive whirring sound.
The creamy, white larvae or grubs are often found curled up just below the soil surface, feeding especially on roots, mainly in August and September.
Larvae have distinctive grey ends to their abdomens, and brown heads.
Some species remain as larvae for up to three years.
Plant damage is mostly caused by the larvae although the adults can also seriously damage the upper parts of the plants.
Chafers overwinter below ground as pupae and the adults emerge in spring.
Adults often return to the same location to lay their eggs over a two week period during early summer.
Chafer predators such as foxes, badgers, rooks, crows, jays and magpies often damage lawns and community greens searching for grubs.
Treatment
Organic
Try natural pest controls, such as the parasitic nematode, Heterorhabditis megidis.
Where possible eradicate the larval stages by lifting sections of turf and disposing of the larvae.
Encourage birds that prey on the beetles and their larvae.
Use barrier methods such as fleece, to keep adults away from plants at risk.
Prevention
Check regularly for signs of chafer infestation and quickly deal with them.
Scarify and aerate lawns in autumn.
Where lawns have a history of infestation try to compress the turf by rolling it heavily during spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Distorted and misshapen leaves, flowers, buds and fruit growth. The leaf tissue around affected areas may become brown and eventually die.
Plants affected
Many different garden plants are affected including fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, trees and weeds.
About Capsid bugs
Capsid bugs feed on plant sap and in doing so cause deformation of plant material.
There are many different species of capsid bugs in the UK.
Capsids are also known as mirid bugs.
Some species of capsid also feed on other small insects.
Adults vary in colour from green to red/ brown, around 6mm in length, and have a long, slender feeding tube.
Young are similar in shape and colour, but smaller and wingless.
When disturbed they fall down onto the soil as a defence.
When feeding they inject saliva which is toxic to plants.
There can be one or two generations per year depending on the species.
Eggs are laid into cracks in tree bark, woody stems, and at the base of hedges. They hatch in late spring.
Depending on species, over-wintering takes place as eggs or as adults in plant debris.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Capsid bugs
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly inspect plants in spring.
Remove and destroy adults by hand.
Winter wash trees to destroy eggs.
Prevention
Keep areas around plants free from plant debris.
Remove weeds around plants.
Plants affected
Many different garden plants are affected including fruits, vegetables, ornamentals, trees and weeds.
About Capsid bugs
Capsid bugs feed on plant sap and in doing so cause deformation of plant material.
There are many different species of capsid bugs in the UK.
Capsids are also known as mirid bugs.
Some species of capsid also feed on other small insects.
Adults vary in colour from green to red/ brown, around 6mm in length, and have a long, slender feeding tube.
Young are similar in shape and colour, but smaller and wingless.
When disturbed they fall down onto the soil as a defence.
When feeding they inject saliva which is toxic to plants.
There can be one or two generations per year depending on the species.
Eggs are laid into cracks in tree bark, woody stems, and at the base of hedges. They hatch in late spring.
Depending on species, over-wintering takes place as eggs or as adults in plant debris.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Capsid bugs
Pyrethrins
Pyrethroids
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regularly inspect plants in spring.
Remove and destroy adults by hand.
Winter wash trees to destroy eggs.
Prevention
Keep areas around plants free from plant debris.
Remove weeds around plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Pathogen-caused leaf spot diseases, particularly those of stone fruit trees and such vegetables as tomatoes, peppers and lettuce are of two types, those caused by bacteria and those caused by fungus. Leaf spotting of either kind is generally similar in appearance and effect. Prevention and treatment of both kinds often involve the same practices.
Symptoms
Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (stone fruits, including cherry, plum, almond, apricot and peach) are particularly susceptible to bacterial leaf spot. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomato and pepper crops in vegetable gardens.
Fungal leaf spot attacks lettuce and can also occur on brassicas and other vegetables including such as cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, turnip and rutabaga. For more on vegetables susceptible to bacterial and fungal leaf spot, go here.
Bacterial leaf spot will also infect some annual and perennial flowering plants including geraniums, zinnias, purple cone flowers and black-eyed Susan. Fungal leaf spot will infect aspen and poplar trees. Leaf spot will also cause problems for strawberry plants.
Both types of leaf spot are most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.
This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. It will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.
Control
When selecting fruit trees, choose resistant varieties if possible.
Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit.
Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will reduce weeds and prevent the disease pathogen from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Leaf spot among vegetables is most often introduced through infected seed or transplants. Make sure your seeds and transplants are from leaf spot-free stock.
There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Preventive, organic measures include:
Spraying with a baking soda solution (a tablespoon of baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, a teaspoon of liquid soap, not detergent, to one gallon of water), or neem oil (do not use when pollinating insects including bees or other beneficial insects are present). Baking soda may burn some plant leaves. Spray only a few and then check for a reaction before applying applications every two weeks.
Apply sulfur sprays or copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. These organic fungicides will not kill leaf spot, but prevent the spores from germinating.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
Symptoms
Infected plants have brown or black water-soaked spots on the foliage, sometimes with a yellow halo, usually uniform in size. The spots enlarge and will run together under wet conditions. Under dry conditions the spots have a speckled appearance. As spots become more numerous, entire leaves may yellow, wither and drop. Members of the Prunus family (stone fruits, including cherry, plum, almond, apricot and peach) are particularly susceptible to bacterial leaf spot. The fruit may appear spotted or have sunken brown areas. Bacterial leaf spot will also attack tomato and pepper crops in vegetable gardens.
Fungal leaf spot attacks lettuce and can also occur on brassicas and other vegetables including such as cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, kale, turnip and rutabaga. For more on vegetables susceptible to bacterial and fungal leaf spot, go here.
Bacterial leaf spot will also infect some annual and perennial flowering plants including geraniums, zinnias, purple cone flowers and black-eyed Susan. Fungal leaf spot will infect aspen and poplar trees. Leaf spot will also cause problems for strawberry plants.
Both types of leaf spot are most active when there is plenty of moisture and warm temperatures. During the summer months, especially if plants are watered by overhead sprinklers, sufficient moisture may be present for infection when the bacteria are splashed or blown on to leaves. Wind and rain transmit the bacteria to plants.
This disease overwinters in the soil around infected plants as well as on garden debris and seeds. It will also remain in the twig cankers, leaves, stems and fruit of infected trees.
Control
When selecting fruit trees, choose resistant varieties if possible.
Keep the soil under the tree clean and rake up fallen fruit.
Use a thick layer of mulch to cover the soil after you have raked and cleaned it well. Mulch will reduce weeds and prevent the disease pathogen from splashing back up onto the leaves.
Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation. Make sure to disinfect your pruning equipment (one part bleach to 4 parts water) after each cut.
Leaf spot among vegetables is most often introduced through infected seed or transplants. Make sure your seeds and transplants are from leaf spot-free stock.
There is no cure for plants infected with bacterial leaf spot. Preventive, organic measures include:
Spraying with a baking soda solution (a tablespoon of baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, a teaspoon of liquid soap, not detergent, to one gallon of water), or neem oil (do not use when pollinating insects including bees or other beneficial insects are present). Baking soda may burn some plant leaves. Spray only a few and then check for a reaction before applying applications every two weeks.
Apply sulfur sprays or copper-based fungicides weekly at first sign of disease to prevent its spread. These organic fungicides will not kill leaf spot, but prevent the spores from germinating.
Safely treat most fungal and bacterial diseases with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
Containing copper and pyrethrins, Bonide® Garden Dust is a safe, one-step control for many insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, cover both the tops and undersides of leaves with a thin uniform film or dust. Depending on foliage density, 10 oz will cover 625 sq ft. Repeat applications every 7-10 days, as needed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Look for
Seedlings germinate and begin to grow well until whole trays rapidly collapse and die. Damping off can also cause trays of seeds to fail to germinate.
Plants affected
Young seedlings of annual bedding and vegetables are the most commonly affected, but damping off can be a problem on a wide range of plants.
About
Damping off is caused by a variety of different soil borne fungi including Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.
Once plants have been affected, Botrytis (Grey mould) often also attacks.
Plants are more likely to succumb if they are under stress.
Stress can be caused by high temperature, high humidity and waterlogging.
Treatment
Good hygiene is important in combating damping off. Wash and disinfect pots and trays after use and use fresh compost.
Dispose of pots, trays and compost where damping off has been a problem.
High humidity around plants can increase the likelihood of damping off. Keep greenhouses well ventilated and sow seeds thinly to avoid overcrowding.
The fungi can infect plants through their water. Make sure all rainwater-butts have sealed lids to prevent leaves and debris entering them and introducing fungi to the water.
Seedlings germinate and begin to grow well until whole trays rapidly collapse and die. Damping off can also cause trays of seeds to fail to germinate.
Plants affected
Young seedlings of annual bedding and vegetables are the most commonly affected, but damping off can be a problem on a wide range of plants.
About
Damping off is caused by a variety of different soil borne fungi including Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Phytophthora.
Once plants have been affected, Botrytis (Grey mould) often also attacks.
Plants are more likely to succumb if they are under stress.
Stress can be caused by high temperature, high humidity and waterlogging.
Treatment
Good hygiene is important in combating damping off. Wash and disinfect pots and trays after use and use fresh compost.
Dispose of pots, trays and compost where damping off has been a problem.
High humidity around plants can increase the likelihood of damping off. Keep greenhouses well ventilated and sow seeds thinly to avoid overcrowding.
The fungi can infect plants through their water. Make sure all rainwater-butts have sealed lids to prevent leaves and debris entering them and introducing fungi to the water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common in vegetable gardens throughout North America, the corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea) is one of the most destructive insect pests attacking corn. It’s also known to bore into other fruiting vegetables and feed on lettuce. One worm can do extensive damage, and often a single larvae is all that’s found on a fouled ear. The corn earworm is also a serious pest of cotton where it is known as the cotton bollworm. On tomatoes it is known as the tomato fruitworm.
Full grown larvae (1-1/2 inch long) are lightly striped and vary in color from a light green or pink to brown. They darken as they grow older. Adults are night-flying, dull greenish gray or brown moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with irregular darker lines and spots near the outer margins of the fore and hind wings. During the day they hide in nearby vegetation, but may occasionally be seen feeding on nectar.
Note: Adult moths are good flyers, and able to move long distances. Each year they migrate from warm southern areas back to northern states where they are subject to winterkill.
Life Cycle
In areas where this insect survives the winter, pupae hibernate in the soil. Adult moths emerge anywhere from February through June, depending upon temperatures, and deposit their eggs singly on corn silks and other plant parts. Each female can lay up to 3,000 eggs, which hatch in two to ten days. When larvae emerge, they burrow directly down through the silks into the ear tip, becoming fully grown in 3-4 weeks. Corn earworm are extremely cannibalistic, which tends to limit the number of larvae to one per ear. When full grown, they drop to the ground to enter the soil for pupation. Usually two generations develop in the north, with as many as six in the extreme south.
Damage
Damage usually begins in the corn’s silk, where the moth deposits its eggs. The caterpillars follow the silk down to the ear, eating as they go. Extensive damage is often found at the ear’s tips, where the worms devour kernels and foul them with excrement. The larvae often destroy the silks before pollination is complete. The resulting ears are deformed and susceptible to mold and disease.
Worm damage is often confined to the tip of corn ears and can easily be cut away. Worms frequently follow leaves down the ear, leaving excrement and settling into kernels well in from the tip. It doesn’t take much of this kind of damage to make the entire ear undesirable.
Each year, copious amounts of pesticides are sprayed on commercial corn fields in attempts to kill larvae. Runoff from these sprayings contribute to watershed and water table contamination while the spray itself decimates beneficial insects. Genetically engineered corn, each kernel producing its own pesticide, was developed with corn earworms in mind.
Corn Earworm Control
An Integrated Pest Management plan that deals with the earworm at all three stages is the best way for corn growers to combat them. As moths, corn earworms are great travelers. Continued vigilance is needed. Just because you had them well-managed the previous season doesn’t mean they won’t glide back in on the first warm breeze come springtime.
Seasonal maintenance:
Don’t mulch ahead of winter without first getting as many pupae as you might have out of the soil.
Till your soil fall and spring to expose the pupae to wind, weather, birds and other predators.
Got chickens? Turn them loose after harvest to pick the grubs from your soil. Watching them work can be very entertaining!
If you suspect your former corn patch might harbor corn earworm pupae, try broadcasting beneficial nematodes into moist soil well ahead of first frost. Word of mouth suggests this is a helpful component of any earworm IPM program.
Spring moth arrival:
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths. Moths mostly fly under cover of night and go unspotted.
At first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
Growing season:
Inspect silk for larvae, eggs regularly.
Employ beneficial insects, such as green lacewings, minute pirate bugs and damsel bugs. All will feed on corn earworm eggs and small larvae.
Spray or inject silks weekly with Beneficial Nematodes to control larvae.
If corn earworms persist, apply Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) to silks at 5-10% formation and continue weekly until tassels turn brown. Both products are listed in the Organic Materials Review Institute’s products certified for use in the USDA’s National Organic Program.
Tip: When using mineral or vegetable oils to suffocate feeding larvae at the ear’s tips, include a botanical insecticide in the oil as an added punch.
Full grown larvae (1-1/2 inch long) are lightly striped and vary in color from a light green or pink to brown. They darken as they grow older. Adults are night-flying, dull greenish gray or brown moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with irregular darker lines and spots near the outer margins of the fore and hind wings. During the day they hide in nearby vegetation, but may occasionally be seen feeding on nectar.
Note: Adult moths are good flyers, and able to move long distances. Each year they migrate from warm southern areas back to northern states where they are subject to winterkill.
Life Cycle
In areas where this insect survives the winter, pupae hibernate in the soil. Adult moths emerge anywhere from February through June, depending upon temperatures, and deposit their eggs singly on corn silks and other plant parts. Each female can lay up to 3,000 eggs, which hatch in two to ten days. When larvae emerge, they burrow directly down through the silks into the ear tip, becoming fully grown in 3-4 weeks. Corn earworm are extremely cannibalistic, which tends to limit the number of larvae to one per ear. When full grown, they drop to the ground to enter the soil for pupation. Usually two generations develop in the north, with as many as six in the extreme south.
Damage
Damage usually begins in the corn’s silk, where the moth deposits its eggs. The caterpillars follow the silk down to the ear, eating as they go. Extensive damage is often found at the ear’s tips, where the worms devour kernels and foul them with excrement. The larvae often destroy the silks before pollination is complete. The resulting ears are deformed and susceptible to mold and disease.
Worm damage is often confined to the tip of corn ears and can easily be cut away. Worms frequently follow leaves down the ear, leaving excrement and settling into kernels well in from the tip. It doesn’t take much of this kind of damage to make the entire ear undesirable.
Each year, copious amounts of pesticides are sprayed on commercial corn fields in attempts to kill larvae. Runoff from these sprayings contribute to watershed and water table contamination while the spray itself decimates beneficial insects. Genetically engineered corn, each kernel producing its own pesticide, was developed with corn earworms in mind.
Corn Earworm Control
An Integrated Pest Management plan that deals with the earworm at all three stages is the best way for corn growers to combat them. As moths, corn earworms are great travelers. Continued vigilance is needed. Just because you had them well-managed the previous season doesn’t mean they won’t glide back in on the first warm breeze come springtime.
Seasonal maintenance:
Don’t mulch ahead of winter without first getting as many pupae as you might have out of the soil.
Till your soil fall and spring to expose the pupae to wind, weather, birds and other predators.
Got chickens? Turn them loose after harvest to pick the grubs from your soil. Watching them work can be very entertaining!
If you suspect your former corn patch might harbor corn earworm pupae, try broadcasting beneficial nematodes into moist soil well ahead of first frost. Word of mouth suggests this is a helpful component of any earworm IPM program.
Spring moth arrival:
Use pheromone traps to determine the main flight period for moths. Moths mostly fly under cover of night and go unspotted.
At first sign of moths, release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
Growing season:
Inspect silk for larvae, eggs regularly.
Employ beneficial insects, such as green lacewings, minute pirate bugs and damsel bugs. All will feed on corn earworm eggs and small larvae.
Spray or inject silks weekly with Beneficial Nematodes to control larvae.
If corn earworms persist, apply Safer Garden Dust (Bacillus thuringiensis) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) to silks at 5-10% formation and continue weekly until tassels turn brown. Both products are listed in the Organic Materials Review Institute’s products certified for use in the USDA’s National Organic Program.
Tip: When using mineral or vegetable oils to suffocate feeding larvae at the ear’s tips, include a botanical insecticide in the oil as an added punch.
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