文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月28日
Most garden vegetables prefer well-drained loamy soil with a neutral pH. However, in many parts of North America, especially the Appalachian Mountains and other hilly regions, good drainage can be difficult to find. Clay soils produce stunted growth and encourage fungal diseases, such as root rot. Amending your soil with additives or choosing vegetables that grow well in this type of soil increase your chances of a healthy, productive garden.
Potatoes
According to the English Gardening website, potatoes are a traditional crop for breaking up clay soils. These plants grow in a wide range of soils, although they prefer gardens high in organic matter with a relatively acid pH. Adding compost or other organic material improves potato yields and ashes or peat decreases pH, since alkaline soils lead to potato scab disease. Potatoes reduce compaction in your clay-soil garden, making the environment friendlier for other vegetables. Avoid early varieties, as clay soils stay colder in spring than other soil types.
Peas
These plants grow well in just about any soil from clay to sand, as long as they have adequate drainage. They prefer slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soils with pH from pH 6 to pH 7.5. However, they will grow in soils with stronger acidity or alkalinity. Avoid overwatering when growing peas on clay, as too much water encourages wilt and root rot diseases. After harvest, cut the plants at soil level, leaving the roots in the ground to add nitrogen and organic material to the soil. This improves drainage and soil quality.
Cabbage
Cabbage and other members of the Brassica family grow well in soils ranging from loam to silty clay. They tolerate intermediate levels of salt, which sometimes build up in clay soils after extensive fertilizer use. They grow best in the cool season. As with potatoes, choose cabbages and cabbage relatives that grow during the late spring and summer, as clay soils often remain too cold for early planting.
Considerations
Even plants that do well in clay soil prefer good drainage and high fertility. Amending your clay-based soil makes it friendlier to clay-loving garden vegetables and improves yield. Adding organic materials, such as compost, manure and peat, gives your soil better nutrition and reduces the chance of water pooling. Include grass clippings, dead garden plants and organic yard waste in the fall to compost over the winter. Avoid adding sand, since the result actually compacts more easily and firmly than clay alone.
Potatoes
According to the English Gardening website, potatoes are a traditional crop for breaking up clay soils. These plants grow in a wide range of soils, although they prefer gardens high in organic matter with a relatively acid pH. Adding compost or other organic material improves potato yields and ashes or peat decreases pH, since alkaline soils lead to potato scab disease. Potatoes reduce compaction in your clay-soil garden, making the environment friendlier for other vegetables. Avoid early varieties, as clay soils stay colder in spring than other soil types.
Peas
These plants grow well in just about any soil from clay to sand, as long as they have adequate drainage. They prefer slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soils with pH from pH 6 to pH 7.5. However, they will grow in soils with stronger acidity or alkalinity. Avoid overwatering when growing peas on clay, as too much water encourages wilt and root rot diseases. After harvest, cut the plants at soil level, leaving the roots in the ground to add nitrogen and organic material to the soil. This improves drainage and soil quality.
Cabbage
Cabbage and other members of the Brassica family grow well in soils ranging from loam to silty clay. They tolerate intermediate levels of salt, which sometimes build up in clay soils after extensive fertilizer use. They grow best in the cool season. As with potatoes, choose cabbages and cabbage relatives that grow during the late spring and summer, as clay soils often remain too cold for early planting.
Considerations
Even plants that do well in clay soil prefer good drainage and high fertility. Amending your clay-based soil makes it friendlier to clay-loving garden vegetables and improves yield. Adding organic materials, such as compost, manure and peat, gives your soil better nutrition and reduces the chance of water pooling. Include grass clippings, dead garden plants and organic yard waste in the fall to compost over the winter. Avoid adding sand, since the result actually compacts more easily and firmly than clay alone.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月26日
Companion planting is the practice of planting certain vegetables next to one another to maximize positive effects of each plant. For example, basil is a good companion plant for tomatoes because it camouflages the tomato scent, thus protecting it from predatory insects. But just as some plants have a positive impact on each other, some plants negatively affect each other and should be planted in different parts of your garden.
Tomatoes
Tomato is one of the most popular garden vegetables, but it is not always a good companion. Cauliflower, peas, corn and broccoli are just a few vegetables that get a negative effect from its tomato plant neighbors. Many times vegetables don't grow well together because they compete for the same nutrients. In other cases, such as tomatoes and corns, both attract worms that thrive in similar habitats. Fennel and potatoes have a negative effect on tomatoes.
Strawberries
Strawberries are a popular addition to many vegetable gardens, but they are not always a positive addition. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts should not be planted with strawberries. The fruit plant uses great amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus from the soil, depleting the nutrients the other plants need. When plants compete for the same nutrients, one or the other -- sometimes both -- do not thrive.
Beans and Potatoes
Avoid planting root crops such as potatoes next to other root crops -- they compete for nutrients at the same depth. Other vegetables negatively affected by growing next to potatoes are zucchini, tomatoes, summer squash and pumpkins. Those plants require more watering, while potatoes require less watering. If over watered, plant tubers began to rot and attract bugs that are harmful to the other plants. Beans naturally adjust nitrogen levels in soil, so avoid planting near plants, such as broccoli, onions and kohlrabi that thrive when planted in soil with a higher nitrogen content.
Organic Myth or Real Science?
Though gardeners have been practicing companion planting for centuries, there's no specific scientific data proving that the method makes your garden plants thrive. Gardening expert Louise Riotte writes that companion planting is something the scientific community is beginning to take a closer look at the gardening practice. But companion planting is more than just folklore. Organic gardeners who use companion planting stand firm that mutual benefit of certain plants, such as tomato and basil, keep pests at bay and increases garden production. Companion planting also uses scientific methods by relying on plants such as beans to fix nitrogen levels in soil.
Tomatoes
Tomato is one of the most popular garden vegetables, but it is not always a good companion. Cauliflower, peas, corn and broccoli are just a few vegetables that get a negative effect from its tomato plant neighbors. Many times vegetables don't grow well together because they compete for the same nutrients. In other cases, such as tomatoes and corns, both attract worms that thrive in similar habitats. Fennel and potatoes have a negative effect on tomatoes.
Strawberries
Strawberries are a popular addition to many vegetable gardens, but they are not always a positive addition. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts should not be planted with strawberries. The fruit plant uses great amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus from the soil, depleting the nutrients the other plants need. When plants compete for the same nutrients, one or the other -- sometimes both -- do not thrive.
Beans and Potatoes
Avoid planting root crops such as potatoes next to other root crops -- they compete for nutrients at the same depth. Other vegetables negatively affected by growing next to potatoes are zucchini, tomatoes, summer squash and pumpkins. Those plants require more watering, while potatoes require less watering. If over watered, plant tubers began to rot and attract bugs that are harmful to the other plants. Beans naturally adjust nitrogen levels in soil, so avoid planting near plants, such as broccoli, onions and kohlrabi that thrive when planted in soil with a higher nitrogen content.
Organic Myth or Real Science?
Though gardeners have been practicing companion planting for centuries, there's no specific scientific data proving that the method makes your garden plants thrive. Gardening expert Louise Riotte writes that companion planting is something the scientific community is beginning to take a closer look at the gardening practice. But companion planting is more than just folklore. Organic gardeners who use companion planting stand firm that mutual benefit of certain plants, such as tomato and basil, keep pests at bay and increases garden production. Companion planting also uses scientific methods by relying on plants such as beans to fix nitrogen levels in soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月26日
Onions are a popular home vegetable garden plant. Like all vegetables, they may eventually go bad if not stored properly. The proper storage method for your onions depends on where they come from, particularly whether you've purchased them from the grocery store or grown them yourself. Storing onions in the fridge is just one option.
Before Storing
Onions should be dried or cured before they go into storage to prevent rot. This can be done in any location that is dry, warm and well-ventilated, like a garage or outdoor patio, and takes two to three weeks. The tops, or green part of the onion, should be cut off about 1 inch above the onion and discarded, and any onions that are rotten should be thrown out. If you intend to braid the onions, the tops can be left on.
Storing
Onions can be stored in your refrigerator or in a cold storage room. The temperature in the refrigerator or cold storage room should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity, between 65 percent and 70 percent. Ensure that the temperatures do not drop below freezing. Depending on the variety, onions can last for weeks to several months when stored like this. For example, Spanish onions will last weeks while Copra onions can last for months.
Materials
Onions should be stored in materials that allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Burlap and mesh are good storage options, as are the netting-like bags that onions are kept in at the grocery store. If the tops have been left on the onions, they can be braided together and the onions hung from rafters or the wall.
Cut Onions
If already cut pieces of onion are used later, the strong gasses that the onion releases that makes people cry will be much less severe. Raw, cut onions should not be left out overnight as they can attract bacteria.
Before Storing
Onions should be dried or cured before they go into storage to prevent rot. This can be done in any location that is dry, warm and well-ventilated, like a garage or outdoor patio, and takes two to three weeks. The tops, or green part of the onion, should be cut off about 1 inch above the onion and discarded, and any onions that are rotten should be thrown out. If you intend to braid the onions, the tops can be left on.
Storing
Onions can be stored in your refrigerator or in a cold storage room. The temperature in the refrigerator or cold storage room should be between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit with moderate humidity, between 65 percent and 70 percent. Ensure that the temperatures do not drop below freezing. Depending on the variety, onions can last for weeks to several months when stored like this. For example, Spanish onions will last weeks while Copra onions can last for months.
Materials
Onions should be stored in materials that allow air to circulate around the bulbs. Burlap and mesh are good storage options, as are the netting-like bags that onions are kept in at the grocery store. If the tops have been left on the onions, they can be braided together and the onions hung from rafters or the wall.
Cut Onions
If already cut pieces of onion are used later, the strong gasses that the onion releases that makes people cry will be much less severe. Raw, cut onions should not be left out overnight as they can attract bacteria.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月20日
Sweet potatoes are one of the most versatile and nutritious vegetables on the market today. They are a very common vegetable in many Asian cultures, though they have yet to catch on as much in the Western diet, as they are mostly thought of as a holiday food. A warm weather vegetable, sweet potatoes are grown all across the United States, but nowhere more so than these five states.
North Carolina
With the sweet potato as its state vegetable, it's no surprise that North Carolina is the No. 1 sweet potato producing state in the country. According to statistics compiled by the United States Department of Agriculture, North Carolina produced, on average, 5,260,277 cwt a year from 1990 to 2007. (A cwt is a unit of measurement used in agriculture, meaning one hundred weight).
Louisiana
Louisiana is known for many things: the birthplace of Elvis, Mardi Gras in New Orleans and Cajun food. It is not necessarily well-know for sweet potatoes, but it's the second-highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,795,055 cwt between 1990 to 2007. Since the sweet potato is a warm weather vegetable, Louisiana is able to grow sweet potatoes year-round. Louisiana agriculture is also composed of sugarcane, cotton and soybeans.
California
With its warm climate, California is an ideal state for growing many different fruits and vegetables, the sweet potato being one of them. California weighs in as the third highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,487,500 cwt between 1990 to 2007. California is also known for its raisins, dairy products, figs and olives. The state produces more than half the countries fruits, nuts and vegetables.
Mississippi
Coming in fourth in sweet potato production is Mississippi, with an average of 1,607,444 cwt from 1990 to 2007. Though most people don't associate Mississippi with sweet potatoes, the state is known for its agriculture, as its warm climate makes it ideal for growing cotton, soybeans, rice and other plants.
Texas
Last, but not least, Texas rounds out the top five list of sweet potato producing states, with an average of 492,888 cwt per year between 1990 to 2007. As the second largest industry in the state, Texas is known for its agriculture, especially its cattle ranches, wool and cotton production. The state also grows much of the country's corn, wheat and hay.
North Carolina
With the sweet potato as its state vegetable, it's no surprise that North Carolina is the No. 1 sweet potato producing state in the country. According to statistics compiled by the United States Department of Agriculture, North Carolina produced, on average, 5,260,277 cwt a year from 1990 to 2007. (A cwt is a unit of measurement used in agriculture, meaning one hundred weight).
Louisiana
Louisiana is known for many things: the birthplace of Elvis, Mardi Gras in New Orleans and Cajun food. It is not necessarily well-know for sweet potatoes, but it's the second-highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,795,055 cwt between 1990 to 2007. Since the sweet potato is a warm weather vegetable, Louisiana is able to grow sweet potatoes year-round. Louisiana agriculture is also composed of sugarcane, cotton and soybeans.
California
With its warm climate, California is an ideal state for growing many different fruits and vegetables, the sweet potato being one of them. California weighs in as the third highest sweet potato producing state in the country, with an average of 2,487,500 cwt between 1990 to 2007. California is also known for its raisins, dairy products, figs and olives. The state produces more than half the countries fruits, nuts and vegetables.
Mississippi
Coming in fourth in sweet potato production is Mississippi, with an average of 1,607,444 cwt from 1990 to 2007. Though most people don't associate Mississippi with sweet potatoes, the state is known for its agriculture, as its warm climate makes it ideal for growing cotton, soybeans, rice and other plants.
Texas
Last, but not least, Texas rounds out the top five list of sweet potato producing states, with an average of 492,888 cwt per year between 1990 to 2007. As the second largest industry in the state, Texas is known for its agriculture, especially its cattle ranches, wool and cotton production. The state also grows much of the country's corn, wheat and hay.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
Unlike most other vegetables, asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial, and plants can produce for as long as 20 years or longers after the first harvest. That first harvest is a long time in coming, however, because it doesn't occur until three years after seeds are planted. That's why most gardeners plant crowns instead of seeds; it cuts the time to the first harvest by a year.
Asparagus grows well in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 2 through 8. People in colder climates benefit by planting 'Guelph Millennium,' a variety that emerges late, while those in warmer climates should plant 'Apollo' or 'UC-157,' which produce before the onset of hot weather. 'Jersey Knight' is a hybrid that grows especially well in USDA zones 4 through 6.
Germinating and Transplanting
Asparagus seeds take a long time to germinate, which is one reason many gardeners prefer to grow the plants from crowns. Depending on the temperature of the soil, it can take asparagus seeds up to two months to germinate. Time the planting to be ready to transplant the shoots 10 to 12 weeks later. The best time to plant the shoots is in early spring, after all danger of frost has passed. Asparagus thrives in cool temperatures and full sun, and the pH of the soil should be between 6.5 and 7.5.
Gardeners should perform a soil test approximately six months before planting the asparagus as it takes this long to adjust the soil's pH. If the soil's pH tests too high, apply 1/4 pound of sulfur for every 100 square feet of garden bed. If the results of the soil test states the pH is too low, adjust by applying 5 pounds of lime for every 100 square feet of garden bed.
Step 1
Soak seeds for two hours prior to sowing.
Step 2
Place each seed in a separate 2-inch pot filled with sterile sowing mix. Sow the seed 1/4 inch below the surface. Make sure the container has bottom drain holes so it doesn't retain too much moisture and the seeds rot.
Step 3
Place the pots in a warm place and keep the soil moist. Sprouts should appear in two to eight weeks, depending on the soil temperature; they'll sprout faster if the soil is warm.
Step 4
Prepare a well-draining soil bed by removing all the weeds and working in 1 to 2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying. Transplant the shoots into holes about 4 inches deep and cover the crown with more soil as it grows. Space holes in each row 18 inches apart, and space rows 3 to 6 feet apart.
Care and Maintenance
Step 1
Fertilize the plants in the early spring, using 1 to 2 cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row, which amounts to a handful of fertilizer per plant. The best time to do this is after you've finished harvesting the spears. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as well as "hot" ones like hog, sheep or poultry manure. Instead, use bone meal and high dolomitic limestone. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Step 2
Give each plant 1 inch of water every week. To help plants retain moisture, mulch them with straw. Mulch also helps control weeds and protects young shoots in the event of a late frost. Even with mulch, it's important to control weeds growing around the young plants by pulling them by the roots. Weeds will gradually get fewer as the asparagus plants grow and become bushier.
Step 3
Trim the ferns down to about 2 inches in the late fall using hand pruners and throw them away to help prevent disease and control pests, such as the asparagus beetle, which overwinters in the top fronds. If pests aren't a problem, consider leaving the fronds -- they transfer energy to the roots.
Harvesting
It takes three years for asparagus plants to be strong enough to harvest. If the plant is growing vigorously, spears will appear in the first spring after planting, and for about two weeks you can break these off if they grow longer than 4 inches. That encourages the plant to produce more. In the second year, extend this harvest period to four weeks, and in the third year, extend it to six weeks. In the fourth year, when the plant is mature, you can harvest spears for up to eight weeks.
Asparagus grows well in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 2 through 8. People in colder climates benefit by planting 'Guelph Millennium,' a variety that emerges late, while those in warmer climates should plant 'Apollo' or 'UC-157,' which produce before the onset of hot weather. 'Jersey Knight' is a hybrid that grows especially well in USDA zones 4 through 6.
Germinating and Transplanting
Asparagus seeds take a long time to germinate, which is one reason many gardeners prefer to grow the plants from crowns. Depending on the temperature of the soil, it can take asparagus seeds up to two months to germinate. Time the planting to be ready to transplant the shoots 10 to 12 weeks later. The best time to plant the shoots is in early spring, after all danger of frost has passed. Asparagus thrives in cool temperatures and full sun, and the pH of the soil should be between 6.5 and 7.5.
Gardeners should perform a soil test approximately six months before planting the asparagus as it takes this long to adjust the soil's pH. If the soil's pH tests too high, apply 1/4 pound of sulfur for every 100 square feet of garden bed. If the results of the soil test states the pH is too low, adjust by applying 5 pounds of lime for every 100 square feet of garden bed.
Step 1
Soak seeds for two hours prior to sowing.
Step 2
Place each seed in a separate 2-inch pot filled with sterile sowing mix. Sow the seed 1/4 inch below the surface. Make sure the container has bottom drain holes so it doesn't retain too much moisture and the seeds rot.
Step 3
Place the pots in a warm place and keep the soil moist. Sprouts should appear in two to eight weeks, depending on the soil temperature; they'll sprout faster if the soil is warm.
Step 4
Prepare a well-draining soil bed by removing all the weeds and working in 1 to 2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying. Transplant the shoots into holes about 4 inches deep and cover the crown with more soil as it grows. Space holes in each row 18 inches apart, and space rows 3 to 6 feet apart.
Care and Maintenance
Step 1
Fertilize the plants in the early spring, using 1 to 2 cups of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 10 feet of row, which amounts to a handful of fertilizer per plant. The best time to do this is after you've finished harvesting the spears. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as well as "hot" ones like hog, sheep or poultry manure. Instead, use bone meal and high dolomitic limestone. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying.
Step 2
Give each plant 1 inch of water every week. To help plants retain moisture, mulch them with straw. Mulch also helps control weeds and protects young shoots in the event of a late frost. Even with mulch, it's important to control weeds growing around the young plants by pulling them by the roots. Weeds will gradually get fewer as the asparagus plants grow and become bushier.
Step 3
Trim the ferns down to about 2 inches in the late fall using hand pruners and throw them away to help prevent disease and control pests, such as the asparagus beetle, which overwinters in the top fronds. If pests aren't a problem, consider leaving the fronds -- they transfer energy to the roots.
Harvesting
It takes three years for asparagus plants to be strong enough to harvest. If the plant is growing vigorously, spears will appear in the first spring after planting, and for about two weeks you can break these off if they grow longer than 4 inches. That encourages the plant to produce more. In the second year, extend this harvest period to four weeks, and in the third year, extend it to six weeks. In the fourth year, when the plant is mature, you can harvest spears for up to eight weeks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月18日
The definition of a vegetable is any edible portion of a plant that does not include a sweet fruit or seed. Vegetables typically consist of leafy, root and stem sections of plants; however, some plants labeled as vegetables are fruits by botanical definition. These mislabeled fruits are plants that contain seeds, but for culinary purposes, are vegetables because the plants lack sweetness.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, according to the University of Illinois. This warm season perennial has hundreds of cultivars in numerous shapes, sizes and colors. Tomatoes originate from South America and belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Tomatoes plants fall into two categories: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomato plants develop flower clusters that stop the growth of the plant vertically. Indeterminate tomato plants form lateral flower clusters that prevent horizontal growth but allow vertical. Some tomato plants need caging or staking because of the weight of the plant.
Peppers
Peppers are tender vegetables planted as warm season crops and are native to Mexico, Central and South America. These multi-purpose seed-containing vegetables belong to the Solanaceae plant family. Peppers come in multiple sizes and shapes including species like bell, sweet and hot peppers. Bell peppers include bell boy and lady bell cultivars. Sweet peppers used in salads are banana peppers and gypsy. Hot peppers entail varieties like jalapeno, red chili and cayenne. Peppers enjoy well-draining fertile soil with ample moisture.
Eggplants
Eggplants are part of the Solanaceae plant family. These purple and white colored cold-seasoned vegetables are native to India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Bangladeshis. Eggplants come in many varieties including large oval-shaped, elongated and small oval-shaped. Smaller species have the ability to grow in containers. Eggplants require a nitrogen-based fertilizer with plenty of moisture. These seed-bearing vegetables enjoy the hot conditions of summer and need a long growing season. Two typical problems with eggplant crops are the verticillium wilt, a plant disease, and flea beetles.
Cucumbers
Cucumbers are warm-seasoned vegetables that originate from India. This dark green cylindrical vegetable from the Cucurbitaceae family develops from creeping vines. Cucumbers come in many varieties including long green slicing, compact long green slicing and pickling. Burpless is a long green slicing hybrid cucumber that takes 62 days to harvest, fanfare is a compact long green slicing hybrid that is disease resistant, and Carolina is a medium-sized pickling cucumber. Cucumbers also come in an assortment of dwarf cultivars. Cucumbers have shallow roots; therefore, they need plenty of moisture.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月17日
All plants have roots through which they derive nutrients from the soil. When these roots are edible, they are called "root vegetables." When preparing carrots, for example, it is usual to cut off and discard their leaves, known as greens, and eat the long, orange roots. Consumption of root vegetables is common around the world. Some vegetables of similar appearance, especially nonroot tubers, are occasionally incorrectly considered root vegetables.
Taproots
Taproots are long, sometimes slender roots that plunge deep into the soil. Carrots are the most familiar taproots in everyday use. Carrots are related to parsley, which are prized for the green leaves. Carrots originated in Afghanistan but are now grown and eaten around the world. Other taproots include parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, daikons, celeriac, radishes and beets. Although some taproots, such as parsnips, are most often served cooked, many can be eaten raw or incorporated raw in salads and other dishes.
Tuber Roots
Tubers, in comparison to taproots, tend to be larger and more squat in shape. Tuber roots can store large quantities of nutrients, which helps some plants make it through long winters. Sweet potatoes and yams are familiar examples of tuber roots. They are often confused because they have a similar appearance and flavor. Traditionally sweet potatoes grown and eaten in the southern U.S. are called yams even though, strictly speaking, they are sweet potatoes. Often large and high in sugar, sweet potatoes and yams are best cooked before eating. Other examples of tuber root vegetables include cassava, yucca and manioc.
Potatoes
Although potatoes are tubers, not root vegetables, they are often grouped with yams and sweet potatoes, which are tuber roots and true root vegetables. The potato is technically a stem rather than a root. Indeed, anyone who has kept potatoes too long will have seen them sprout roots. The potato does perform a similar function to a tuber root, storing nutrients from the soil. Potatoes are one of the world's main dietary staples.
Other Similar Vegetables
In addition to the potato, other tubers and some bulbs are sometimes classed with root vegetables, although in strict botanical terms they are not roots. Among these are tigernuts, groundnuts, sunchokes, arrowroot and lotus root. Members of the onion family -- including onions, shallots, garlic -- are bulbs rather than roots.
Taproots
Taproots are long, sometimes slender roots that plunge deep into the soil. Carrots are the most familiar taproots in everyday use. Carrots are related to parsley, which are prized for the green leaves. Carrots originated in Afghanistan but are now grown and eaten around the world. Other taproots include parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, daikons, celeriac, radishes and beets. Although some taproots, such as parsnips, are most often served cooked, many can be eaten raw or incorporated raw in salads and other dishes.
Tuber Roots
Tubers, in comparison to taproots, tend to be larger and more squat in shape. Tuber roots can store large quantities of nutrients, which helps some plants make it through long winters. Sweet potatoes and yams are familiar examples of tuber roots. They are often confused because they have a similar appearance and flavor. Traditionally sweet potatoes grown and eaten in the southern U.S. are called yams even though, strictly speaking, they are sweet potatoes. Often large and high in sugar, sweet potatoes and yams are best cooked before eating. Other examples of tuber root vegetables include cassava, yucca and manioc.
Potatoes
Although potatoes are tubers, not root vegetables, they are often grouped with yams and sweet potatoes, which are tuber roots and true root vegetables. The potato is technically a stem rather than a root. Indeed, anyone who has kept potatoes too long will have seen them sprout roots. The potato does perform a similar function to a tuber root, storing nutrients from the soil. Potatoes are one of the world's main dietary staples.
Other Similar Vegetables
In addition to the potato, other tubers and some bulbs are sometimes classed with root vegetables, although in strict botanical terms they are not roots. Among these are tigernuts, groundnuts, sunchokes, arrowroot and lotus root. Members of the onion family -- including onions, shallots, garlic -- are bulbs rather than roots.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
Growing vegetables in your home garden requires a certain amount of attention to soil condition and pH level. The pH level of soil can critically affect the growth of vegetables, allowing (or preventing) roots to take up sufficient nutrition for the production of the flowers and fruit. If you live in a region with acidic soil, selecting vegetables that thrive in acidic soil will bring you a better harvest.
Potatoes
Potatoes (both Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes) prefer acidic soil conditions. The ideal pH range for this crop is 4.8 to 5.5, according to the Cornell University Vegetable Growing Guide. Potatoes need a light, loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter. To add nutrients and help aerate the soil, work in soil amendment such as peat moss, compost or manure at planting time. Avoid adding too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer, which will encourage the potato plants to grow foliage at the expense of tuber production.
Eggplant
Eggplants also grow well in slightly acidic soil (pH level between 5.5 and 7.5). The eggplant is a heat-loving plant that requires full sun and frost-free temperatures. The crop will benefit from the addition of compost or manure to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. Mulching plants helps to keep down weeds and retain moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. A loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter will help tomato plants grow and produce. Tomatoes also benefit from the application of fertilizer that contains phosphorus, but fertilizer with too much nitrogen can inhibit fruit production. A 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 fertilizer is recommended. These numbers designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer formula. Nitrogen is always the first number in the formula, phosphorus is the second and potassium is the third.
Green Peppers
Green peppers can be grown in slightly acidic soil in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. They require well-draining soil with moderate fertility for best results. Peppers are warm season vegetables that will experience blossom drop if exposed to night temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They will also suffer from poor fruiting if the blossoms develop into the fruit (called "fruit setting") when temperatures are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, according to Ohio State horticulturist Marianne Riofrio.
Squash
Squash will grow in acidic soils with a pH range of 5.5 to 6.8, according to the University of Connecticut website. Add compost or manure at planting time to condition the soil and retain moisture. Mulching helps to control weeds that compete for nutrients with the squash plants. Do not mulch with grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with an herbicide.
Kale
Kale prefers soil in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 for best growth, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. Kale is a cool weather crop that prefers daytime temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Mulching will help to keep roots cool and free of weeds.
Potatoes
Potatoes (both Irish potatoes and sweet potatoes) prefer acidic soil conditions. The ideal pH range for this crop is 4.8 to 5.5, according to the Cornell University Vegetable Growing Guide. Potatoes need a light, loose, well-draining soil that is high in organic matter. To add nutrients and help aerate the soil, work in soil amendment such as peat moss, compost or manure at planting time. Avoid adding too much nitrogen-rich fertilizer, which will encourage the potato plants to grow foliage at the expense of tuber production.
Eggplant
Eggplants also grow well in slightly acidic soil (pH level between 5.5 and 7.5). The eggplant is a heat-loving plant that requires full sun and frost-free temperatures. The crop will benefit from the addition of compost or manure to increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. Mulching plants helps to keep down weeds and retain moisture.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. A loamy, well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter will help tomato plants grow and produce. Tomatoes also benefit from the application of fertilizer that contains phosphorus, but fertilizer with too much nitrogen can inhibit fruit production. A 5-10-10 or 5-20-20 fertilizer is recommended. These numbers designate the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the fertilizer formula. Nitrogen is always the first number in the formula, phosphorus is the second and potassium is the third.
Green Peppers
Green peppers can be grown in slightly acidic soil in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. They require well-draining soil with moderate fertility for best results. Peppers are warm season vegetables that will experience blossom drop if exposed to night temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They will also suffer from poor fruiting if the blossoms develop into the fruit (called "fruit setting") when temperatures are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, according to Ohio State horticulturist Marianne Riofrio.
Squash
Squash will grow in acidic soils with a pH range of 5.5 to 6.8, according to the University of Connecticut website. Add compost or manure at planting time to condition the soil and retain moisture. Mulching helps to control weeds that compete for nutrients with the squash plants. Do not mulch with grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with an herbicide.
Kale
Kale prefers soil in the pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 for best growth, according to the University of Rhode Island Landscape Horticulture Program. Kale is a cool weather crop that prefers daytime temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Mulching will help to keep roots cool and free of weeds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月14日
Believe it or not, watermelons are actually vegetables and members of the cucumber and squash family. Regardless of what you call them though, watermelons place second only to tomatoes in the home garden for highest concentrations of lycopene. Lycopene is an antioxidant that reduces the risks of many diseases, including some cancers and cardiovascular diseases. So eat up your watermelon and reap its benefits. But alas, this may be difficult if your watermelon is not ripe. While it's best to let watermelon ripen in the field, you have one last resort to help it along if necessary.
Step 1
Leave the watermelon alone to ripen on the vine. The biggest indicator that a watermelon is ripe is the bottom where it sits on the ground. It must be a cream or yellow color, not green or white. Other signs that a watermelon is ripe include: a pale green color between the stripes, a dry and curvy tendril, a smooth rind and round edges.
Step 2
Wrap a picked, unripe watermelon in a paper bag. This could help it ripen some if you inadvertently obtained a melon that does look ripe.
Step 3
Store it at room temperature, not in refrigerator. Check every few days to see if the watermelon has ripened.
Step 1
Leave the watermelon alone to ripen on the vine. The biggest indicator that a watermelon is ripe is the bottom where it sits on the ground. It must be a cream or yellow color, not green or white. Other signs that a watermelon is ripe include: a pale green color between the stripes, a dry and curvy tendril, a smooth rind and round edges.
Step 2
Wrap a picked, unripe watermelon in a paper bag. This could help it ripen some if you inadvertently obtained a melon that does look ripe.
Step 3
Store it at room temperature, not in refrigerator. Check every few days to see if the watermelon has ripened.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Zucchinis (Cucurbita pepo) and cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) are both members of the Cucurbit family, so it's no wonder people confuse these two long, slender green vegetables. While it's more obvious when you're harvesting the annual vegetables, the young plants look similar to the untrained eye. When you've planted the vines, you'll remember which is which, especially if you've labeled your garden, but volunteer squash and zucchini plants in unplanned spots require identification from the seedling stage.
Seedling Stage
Zucchini and cucumber plants look most similar in the seedling stage when there are fewer leaves and other identifying characteristics. The seed sometimes remains attached to the leaflets when the seedlings pop through the ground. Cucumber seeds are narrow, long and smooth, while zucchini seeds are short, wide, and have a small ridge around the perimeter. The first two leaves of zucchini and cucumber seedlings are oval and virtually indistinguishable. Likewise, the second and subsequent sets of leaves are both heart-shaped with wavy edges. As the seedlings grow, cucumber seedlings tend to spread as vines, while zucchini growth is more upright.
The differences between zucchini and cucumber plants become more apparent as the plants mature. While leaf shape is similar, cucumber leaves are much smaller, at 4 to 5 inches in diameter, while zucchini leaves grow 12 inches in diameter or wider. Zucchini plants are often considered vines, although their growth habit is more bushlike, with stems that might spread as much as 3 feet with a basically upright growth habit. Leaves are supported by thick, hollow stalks that are covered with stiff, prickly hairs. The vining habit of a cucumber is much more obvious than with zucchini. The stems are similar, but cucumber stems are narrower and produce fine tendrils for climbing as they grow. Even bush-type cucumber plants tend to spread vines along the ground, while some cucumber vines grow over 12 fee long and require trellising. Zucchini plants produces large, trumpet-shaped, yellow or orange flowers, while yellow cucumber flowers are smaller and bell-shaped.
At first glance, cucumbers and zucchinis bear a striking resemblance, particularly if zucchinis are picked when small and closer in size to cucumbers. The first clue is the stem end of the fruit -- zucchini has a woody stem at the end while a cucumber has a small, circular scar. Feel the two in your hand and you'll notice cucumbers have a waxy skin, while zucchini skins are dull. A zucchini is rarely perfectly round, instead featuring several flat sides that result in a mostly round appearance. Both vegetables can have mottled skin, but this is usually sporadic on cucumbers while zucchini skins are mottled throughout. Instead of perfectly smooth skin as you would find on zucchini, cucumbers are covered in tiny nubs that can even prick you before you gently rub them off with your thumbs.
Flavor is a dead giveaway for distinguishing zucchinis and cucumbers, but you can tell the difference in the interior flesh without taking a single bite. Start by cutting through the zucchini and cucumber. Immediately, you'll notice the softness of the zucchini as your knife glides through the flesh when compared to the "snap" in the crunchy cucumber. Zucchini flesh is dry, soft and somewhat spongy -- push it with your finger and it will spring back a bit. Cucumbers are moist inside, with firm flesh. The interior color is mostly white for both vegetables, but cucumbers have a slight tint of green.
Seedling Stage
Zucchini and cucumber plants look most similar in the seedling stage when there are fewer leaves and other identifying characteristics. The seed sometimes remains attached to the leaflets when the seedlings pop through the ground. Cucumber seeds are narrow, long and smooth, while zucchini seeds are short, wide, and have a small ridge around the perimeter. The first two leaves of zucchini and cucumber seedlings are oval and virtually indistinguishable. Likewise, the second and subsequent sets of leaves are both heart-shaped with wavy edges. As the seedlings grow, cucumber seedlings tend to spread as vines, while zucchini growth is more upright.
The differences between zucchini and cucumber plants become more apparent as the plants mature. While leaf shape is similar, cucumber leaves are much smaller, at 4 to 5 inches in diameter, while zucchini leaves grow 12 inches in diameter or wider. Zucchini plants are often considered vines, although their growth habit is more bushlike, with stems that might spread as much as 3 feet with a basically upright growth habit. Leaves are supported by thick, hollow stalks that are covered with stiff, prickly hairs. The vining habit of a cucumber is much more obvious than with zucchini. The stems are similar, but cucumber stems are narrower and produce fine tendrils for climbing as they grow. Even bush-type cucumber plants tend to spread vines along the ground, while some cucumber vines grow over 12 fee long and require trellising. Zucchini plants produces large, trumpet-shaped, yellow or orange flowers, while yellow cucumber flowers are smaller and bell-shaped.
At first glance, cucumbers and zucchinis bear a striking resemblance, particularly if zucchinis are picked when small and closer in size to cucumbers. The first clue is the stem end of the fruit -- zucchini has a woody stem at the end while a cucumber has a small, circular scar. Feel the two in your hand and you'll notice cucumbers have a waxy skin, while zucchini skins are dull. A zucchini is rarely perfectly round, instead featuring several flat sides that result in a mostly round appearance. Both vegetables can have mottled skin, but this is usually sporadic on cucumbers while zucchini skins are mottled throughout. Instead of perfectly smooth skin as you would find on zucchini, cucumbers are covered in tiny nubs that can even prick you before you gently rub them off with your thumbs.
Flavor is a dead giveaway for distinguishing zucchinis and cucumbers, but you can tell the difference in the interior flesh without taking a single bite. Start by cutting through the zucchini and cucumber. Immediately, you'll notice the softness of the zucchini as your knife glides through the flesh when compared to the "snap" in the crunchy cucumber. Zucchini flesh is dry, soft and somewhat spongy -- push it with your finger and it will spring back a bit. Cucumbers are moist inside, with firm flesh. The interior color is mostly white for both vegetables, but cucumbers have a slight tint of green.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月10日
If you have , you're in luck. This type of soil is preferred by vegetables as it is well-draining and, more often than not, richer in available nutrients than other soil types. is so preferable that gardeners without it amend their soils to get it.
Why Loamy Soil?
Soil is made up of particles that vary greatly in size, giving each type of soil its distinctive makeup. The three major particle types are sand, silt and clay. This is why different regions have sandy, silty or clayey soils.
Sand particles are larger, grainy and course, allowing water to drain right through. Clay particles are small but heavy and hold water. Silt is in between the two.
A loamy soil has all three particle types in balance with each other. It holds moisture enough to keep plant roots moist while draining well enough to prevent roots from becoming waterlogged.
Summer Vegetables
Summer vegetables, also known as warm-season crops, grow best under the hot sun of summer. These crops tend to be tender and sensitive to cold and frost.
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), eggplant (Solanum melongena), peppers (Capsicum spp.), pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis) are examples of tender and very tender crops that do well in well-drained, fertile, loamy soil. Cucumbers, pumpkins, cantaloupes and many of their relatives thrive in warm soil; you must wait until the soil reaches over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These three, in particular, are also heavy feeders.
These crops germinate best when soil temperatures are between 80 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Some, including cantaloupe and eggplant, may become stunted when daytime temperatures stay at or below 55 degrees for a week.
Cool-Season Crops
Although summer vegetables take center stage, a large variety of crops do better in cooler temperatures. These are known as cool-season crops.
Cool-season crops include most of the root and leafy crops -- most of which also prefer a rich, loamy soil. Some are considered semihardy, meaning they prefer cooler temperatures and can handle light frost. Others are hardy and thrive in -- believe it or not -- late fall, winter and early spring.
Semihardy Crops
Semihardy crops tolerate light frosts which typically occur when the temperature hits between 29 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Root crops in this category include carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), which thrive in loose, deep loamy soil free of stones; beets (Beta vulgaris), which thrive in loamy soil high in organic matter; and rutabaga (Brassica napobrassica), which will grow in almost any soil but produces best when moisture-rich loamy soil is the growing medium.
Leafy crops that are semihardy include lettuces (Lactuca sativum), raddichio (Cichorium intybus var. foliosum) and Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris sups. vulgaris).
Hardy Vegetables
Hardy vegetables are those that can't take the heat -- they need the coolness of fall, winter and early spring for overall health and to produce the best flavor. Several cole crops -- many varieties of the mustard family -- take center stage here. According to University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension, cole crops do best in well-drained loams.
Cole crops include kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica), broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica), brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) and collards (Brassica oleracea var. acephala).
Other hardy vegetables include radish (Raphanus sativus), spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa).
Understanding Plant Requirements
Most vegetables will list "moist, well-drained soil" on their plant tags. This is a vague term, but it does hold value. The term means your soil needs to allow water to drain through quick enough that it doesn't form standing water or hold water on the roots. It should also have particles and a texture capable of holding moisture without pooling. All these vegetables do best in moist, well-drained soil, making loamy soil the ideal growing medium.
Why Loamy Soil?
Soil is made up of particles that vary greatly in size, giving each type of soil its distinctive makeup. The three major particle types are sand, silt and clay. This is why different regions have sandy, silty or clayey soils.
Sand particles are larger, grainy and course, allowing water to drain right through. Clay particles are small but heavy and hold water. Silt is in between the two.
A loamy soil has all three particle types in balance with each other. It holds moisture enough to keep plant roots moist while draining well enough to prevent roots from becoming waterlogged.
Summer Vegetables
Summer vegetables, also known as warm-season crops, grow best under the hot sun of summer. These crops tend to be tender and sensitive to cold and frost.
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum), eggplant (Solanum melongena), peppers (Capsicum spp.), pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo), cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis) are examples of tender and very tender crops that do well in well-drained, fertile, loamy soil. Cucumbers, pumpkins, cantaloupes and many of their relatives thrive in warm soil; you must wait until the soil reaches over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. These three, in particular, are also heavy feeders.
These crops germinate best when soil temperatures are between 80 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Some, including cantaloupe and eggplant, may become stunted when daytime temperatures stay at or below 55 degrees for a week.
Cool-Season Crops
Although summer vegetables take center stage, a large variety of crops do better in cooler temperatures. These are known as cool-season crops.
Cool-season crops include most of the root and leafy crops -- most of which also prefer a rich, loamy soil. Some are considered semihardy, meaning they prefer cooler temperatures and can handle light frost. Others are hardy and thrive in -- believe it or not -- late fall, winter and early spring.
Semihardy Crops
Semihardy crops tolerate light frosts which typically occur when the temperature hits between 29 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Root crops in this category include carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus), which thrive in loose, deep loamy soil free of stones; beets (Beta vulgaris), which thrive in loamy soil high in organic matter; and rutabaga (Brassica napobrassica), which will grow in almost any soil but produces best when moisture-rich loamy soil is the growing medium.
Leafy crops that are semihardy include lettuces (Lactuca sativum), raddichio (Cichorium intybus var. foliosum) and Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris sups. vulgaris).
Hardy Vegetables
Hardy vegetables are those that can't take the heat -- they need the coolness of fall, winter and early spring for overall health and to produce the best flavor. Several cole crops -- many varieties of the mustard family -- take center stage here. According to University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension, cole crops do best in well-drained loams.
Cole crops include kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica), broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica), brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera) and collards (Brassica oleracea var. acephala).
Other hardy vegetables include radish (Raphanus sativus), spinach (Spinacia oleracea) and turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa).
Understanding Plant Requirements
Most vegetables will list "moist, well-drained soil" on their plant tags. This is a vague term, but it does hold value. The term means your soil needs to allow water to drain through quick enough that it doesn't form standing water or hold water on the roots. It should also have particles and a texture capable of holding moisture without pooling. All these vegetables do best in moist, well-drained soil, making loamy soil the ideal growing medium.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Green peppers are often referred to as sweet or bell peppers and come in many varieties. Pepper plants originated in tropical areas of the world where they grow as perennials. However, these tender warm-season vegetables are usually planted annually in summer vegetable gardens. Most pepper plants can take from 60 to 95 days from sowing to harvest, but you may not know that green peppers are actually not fully mature.
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
Temperature Requirements
Most gardeners either start green peppers from seeds indoors seven to 10 weeks ahead of the proposed planting date or purchase green pepper transplants in the spring because of the temperatures required for growing these tender plants. The best temperature for growing peppers is no more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and not less than 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night. You must wait until the soil has warmed in the spring and there is no more chance of frost to plant peppers outside.
Soil and Light Requirements
Providing the ideal growing environment for the green pepper plants to develop and begin producing fruits starts with the planting location. Pepper plants prefer well-drained, moderately rich soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. If possible, test your soil and alter it accordingly depending on the results. Amending the soil with 3 inches of organic matter is a common practice to enrich the soil without testing. Green peppers require full sunlight for more than six hours.
Planting Green Peppers
Only purchase healthy green pepper plants with three or more sets of leaves and no blossoms. Water the plants well before planting. Wait for a cloudy, cool day to place the transplants in the vegetable garden. Space the pepper transplants at least 18 inches apart and in rows at least 24 inches apart. Dig holes to plant them at the same depth and saturate the soil to remove any air pockets. Apply a starter fertilizer at half-strength to each plant.
Maintenance and Harvest
Maintain the plants properly to ensure ideal growth and development occurs. Place a layer of mulch around the peppers to retain soil moisture and avert weeds or remove the weeds manually. Water the green pepper plants as needed to maintain moist but not soggy soil. Apply a vegetable fertilizer as directed while the plants are growing. Harvest the green peppers when the fruits have reached the size desired. Remove the peppers from the plants with a sharp knife or pruner to prevent damage.
Varieties and Days to Harvest
Sweet bell hybrid peppers change from green to red, including varieties like Bell Boy, Brigadier and Enterprise (71 days) and Palidin, Ranger and Sentry (75 days). Green ornamental peppers include NeMex Twilight and Thai Hot (70 days). Hot hybrid green peppers include Ancho Ranchero (70 days), Ancho Vila (80 days), Cherry Bomb (68 days), Grande and Super Chili (75 days). Open-pollinated sweet and hot green peppers include Queen (68 days), Valencia (70 days), Red Chill (82 days) and Ancho Gigantia (90 days).
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月08日
Bean plants are among the easiest vegetables to grow. They germinate quickly under the right conditions and produce flowers and fruit within 50 to 65 days, depending on the variety. If planted too early, though, beans may be slow to germinate or fail to germinate at all. Pay close attention to planting times and seed depth.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
Time Frame
Under good conditions, beans germinate in eight to 10 days. Beans may take two weeks or longer if the soil temperature is under 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Wait until daytime temperatures are above 75 degrees Fahrenheit before planting bean seeds for fast germination.
Moisture
Many people soak bean seeds before planting, but this procedure can actually hamper germination by causing the seeds to crack or rot. Beans germinate best in evenly moist, but not soggy soil. Heavy clay soils tend to stay wet longer in the spring. Amend them with organic matter such as compost or manure to improve drainage, or plant green beans in raised beds.
Warmth
In addition to improving drainage, raised beds warm up earlier in the spring, making them a good choice for gardeners in areas with short seasons. Another option is to lay black plastic over the soil two weeks before planting bean seeds. The plastic warms the soil and hastens seed germination. Remove the plastic before planting or cut slits in the plastic and leave it in place all summer. Plant green bean seeds 1 inch deep in sandy soils and 1/2 inch deep in clay soils that stay cold longer.
Considerations
Planting beans in cups is a common preschool or kindergarten activity because the seeds germinate predictably, offering a first lesson in gardening. Beans don't handle transplanting well, though. Plant seeds directly in the garden after the soil has warmed for best results, rather than starting seeds indoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Many vegetables make good home crops, and the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus) is one of the best. Usually quite productive and easy to grow, a failing cucumber plant can leave you wondering if your green thumb has turned brown. Sometimes, however, cucumbers develop but fail to turn green or start out green only to become orange or yellow. Yellowing cucumbers might signal a problem but they are sometimes a natural occurrence. Knowing the difference is the first step, followed by making some changes to prevent abnormal yellowing.
Baby I Was Born This Way
Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow.
Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them.
Food and Water
Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop.
Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden.
Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed.
Other Cucumber Crises
While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat.
Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil.
If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
Baby I Was Born This Way
Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow.
Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them.
Food and Water
Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop.
Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden.
Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed.
Other Cucumber Crises
While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat.
Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil.
If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月23日
Identifying vegetable vines is fairly simple because only a few vegetable plants -- beans, peas, tomatoes and cucurbits -- have a vining habit. Most vegetables, such as lettuce, carrots, peppers, corn and broccoli, have an upright habit. Bush varieties of beans, tomatoes, melons and squash may not vine either, but have a compact, upright form. With the exception of peas, which thrive in cool, spring weather, all vining vegetable plants thrive in warm, sunny conditions and need 2 to 3 months of summer weather to mature.
Step 1
Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties.
Step 2
Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3
Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across.
Step 4
Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
Step 1
Examine the plants for a trellis or support system. Snap peas, English peas and pole beans must have support to thrive. These plants cling to wires or string via tendrils. Other plants, such as tomatoes or cucumbers, may also grow on supports, but they don't cling. Instead, gardeners secure them to support systems with twine, strips of fabric or plastic ties.
Step 2
Consider the height and width of the plant. Tomato plants usually grow at least 2 feet high without a cage or trellis. Caged tomatoes may grow 6 feet or higher and 3 feet wide. Melons, pumpkins and cucumbers usually remain fairly low to the ground, growing 2 feet high. However, the vines sprawl across the garden soil, stretching 6 feet or more.
Step 3
Evaluate the leaves. Peas have small, oval leaves, while pole beans produce heart-shaped, slightly fuzzy leaves. Many people find bean leaves irritating to the touch. Tomato leaves are lobed, crinkled and have a distinctive tomato smell. The leaves of cucumber and cantaloupe plants are 3 to 4 inches across, lobed and wrinkled. Pumpkin, squash and watermelon leaves resemble cucumber and cantaloupe leaves in shape, but are much larger -- 8 to 10 inches across.
Step 4
Inspect the plant for flowers and fruit. Peas, beans and tomatoes produce small, white or yellow flowers followed by small fruit, while cucumbers, melons, squash and pumpkins produce extravagant yellow flowers followed by large fruit.
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