文章
ritau
2020年03月01日
Companion planting in gardening and agriculture is the planting of different crops in proximity for any of a number of different reasons, including pest control, pollination, providing habitat for beneficial insects, maximizing use of space, and to otherwise increase crop productivity. Companion planting is a form of polyculture.
Companion planting is used by farmers and gardeners in both industrialized and developing countries for many reasons. Many of the modern principles of companion planting were present many centuries ago in cottage gardens in England and forest gardens in Asia, and thousands of years ago in Mesoamerica.
Companion planting can operate through a variety of mechanisms, which may sometimes be combined.
*Provision of nutrients
Legumes such as clover provide nitrogen compounds to other plants such as grasses by fixing nitrogen from the air with symbiotic bacteria in their root nodules.
Dandelions have long taproots that bring nutrients from deep within the soil to near the surface, benefitting neighboring plants that are shallower-rooted.
*Trap cropping
Further information: Trap crop
Trap cropping uses alternative plants to attract pests away from a main crop. For example, nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) is a food plant of some caterpillars which feed primarily on members of the cabbage family (brassicas); some gardeners claim that planting them around brassicas protects the food crops from damage, as eggs of the pests are preferentially laid on the nasturtium. However, while many trap crops have successfully diverted pests off of focal crops in small scale greenhouse, garden and field experiments, only a small portion of these plants have been shown to reduce pest damage at larger commercial scales.
*Host-finding disruption
Recent studies on host-plant finding have shown that flying pests are far less successful if their host-plants are surrounded by any other plant or even "decoy-plants" made of green plastic, cardboard, or any other green material.
The host-plant finding process occurs in phases:
— The first phase is stimulation by odours characteristic to the host-plant. This induces the insect to try to land on the plant it seeks. But insects avoid landing on brown (bare) soil. So if only the host-plant is present, the insects will quasi-systematically find it by simply landing on the only green thing around. This is called (from the point of view of the insect) "appropriate landing". When it does an "inappropriate landing", it flies off to any other nearby patch of green. It eventually leaves the area if there are too many 'inappropriate' landings.
— The second phase of host-plant finding is for the insect to make short flights from leaf to leaf to assess the plant's overall suitability. The number of leaf-to-leaf flights varies according to the insect species and to the host-plant stimulus received from each leaf. The insect must accumulate sufficient stimuli from the host-plant to lay eggs; so it must make a certain number of consecutive 'appropriate' landings. Hence if it makes an 'inappropriate landing', the assessment of that plant is negative, and the insect must start the process anew.
Thus it was shown that clover used as a ground cover had the same disruptive effect on eight pest species from four different insect orders. An experiment showed that 36% of cabbage root flies laid eggs beside cabbages growing in bare soil (which resulted in no crop), compared to only 7% beside cabbages growing in clover (which allowed a good crop). Simple decoys made of green cardboard also disrupted appropriate landings just as well as did the live ground cover.
*Pest suppression
Some companion plants help prevent pest insects or pathogenic fungi from damaging the crop, through chemical means. For example, the smell of the foliage of marigolds is claimed to deter aphids from feeding on neighbouring plants.
*Predator recruitment
Companion plants that produce copious nectar or pollen in a vegetable garden (insectary plants) may help encourage higher populations of beneficial insects that control pests, as some beneficial predatory insects only consume pests in their larval form and are nectar or pollen feeders in their adult form. For instance, marigolds with simple flowers attract nectar-feeding adult hoverflies, the larvae of which are predators of aphids.
*Protective shelter
Shade-grown coffee plantation in Costa Rica. The red trees in the background provide shade; those in the foreground have been pruned to allow full exposure to the sun.
Some crops are grown under the protective shelter of different kinds of plant, whether as wind breaks or for shade. For example, shade-grown coffee, especially Coffea arabica, has traditionally been grown in light shade created by scattered trees with a thin canopy, allowing light through to the coffee bushes but protecting them from overheating. Suitable Asian trees include Erythrina subumbrans (tton tong or dadap), Gliricidia sepium (khae falang), Cassia siamea (khi lek), Melia azedarach (khao dao sang), and Paulownia tomentosa, a useful timber tree.
Companion planting is used by farmers and gardeners in both industrialized and developing countries for many reasons. Many of the modern principles of companion planting were present many centuries ago in cottage gardens in England and forest gardens in Asia, and thousands of years ago in Mesoamerica.
Companion planting can operate through a variety of mechanisms, which may sometimes be combined.
*Provision of nutrients
Legumes such as clover provide nitrogen compounds to other plants such as grasses by fixing nitrogen from the air with symbiotic bacteria in their root nodules.
Dandelions have long taproots that bring nutrients from deep within the soil to near the surface, benefitting neighboring plants that are shallower-rooted.
*Trap cropping
Further information: Trap crop
Trap cropping uses alternative plants to attract pests away from a main crop. For example, nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus) is a food plant of some caterpillars which feed primarily on members of the cabbage family (brassicas); some gardeners claim that planting them around brassicas protects the food crops from damage, as eggs of the pests are preferentially laid on the nasturtium. However, while many trap crops have successfully diverted pests off of focal crops in small scale greenhouse, garden and field experiments, only a small portion of these plants have been shown to reduce pest damage at larger commercial scales.
*Host-finding disruption
Recent studies on host-plant finding have shown that flying pests are far less successful if their host-plants are surrounded by any other plant or even "decoy-plants" made of green plastic, cardboard, or any other green material.
The host-plant finding process occurs in phases:
— The first phase is stimulation by odours characteristic to the host-plant. This induces the insect to try to land on the plant it seeks. But insects avoid landing on brown (bare) soil. So if only the host-plant is present, the insects will quasi-systematically find it by simply landing on the only green thing around. This is called (from the point of view of the insect) "appropriate landing". When it does an "inappropriate landing", it flies off to any other nearby patch of green. It eventually leaves the area if there are too many 'inappropriate' landings.
— The second phase of host-plant finding is for the insect to make short flights from leaf to leaf to assess the plant's overall suitability. The number of leaf-to-leaf flights varies according to the insect species and to the host-plant stimulus received from each leaf. The insect must accumulate sufficient stimuli from the host-plant to lay eggs; so it must make a certain number of consecutive 'appropriate' landings. Hence if it makes an 'inappropriate landing', the assessment of that plant is negative, and the insect must start the process anew.
Thus it was shown that clover used as a ground cover had the same disruptive effect on eight pest species from four different insect orders. An experiment showed that 36% of cabbage root flies laid eggs beside cabbages growing in bare soil (which resulted in no crop), compared to only 7% beside cabbages growing in clover (which allowed a good crop). Simple decoys made of green cardboard also disrupted appropriate landings just as well as did the live ground cover.
*Pest suppression
Some companion plants help prevent pest insects or pathogenic fungi from damaging the crop, through chemical means. For example, the smell of the foliage of marigolds is claimed to deter aphids from feeding on neighbouring plants.
*Predator recruitment
Companion plants that produce copious nectar or pollen in a vegetable garden (insectary plants) may help encourage higher populations of beneficial insects that control pests, as some beneficial predatory insects only consume pests in their larval form and are nectar or pollen feeders in their adult form. For instance, marigolds with simple flowers attract nectar-feeding adult hoverflies, the larvae of which are predators of aphids.
*Protective shelter
Shade-grown coffee plantation in Costa Rica. The red trees in the background provide shade; those in the foreground have been pruned to allow full exposure to the sun.
Some crops are grown under the protective shelter of different kinds of plant, whether as wind breaks or for shade. For example, shade-grown coffee, especially Coffea arabica, has traditionally been grown in light shade created by scattered trees with a thin canopy, allowing light through to the coffee bushes but protecting them from overheating. Suitable Asian trees include Erythrina subumbrans (tton tong or dadap), Gliricidia sepium (khae falang), Cassia siamea (khi lek), Melia azedarach (khao dao sang), and Paulownia tomentosa, a useful timber tree.
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文章
ritau
2020年02月10日
Hello everyone, today we are going to talk about how to grow succulent plants.
* Soil
Succulents are suitable for use in soils that are permeable to water and air, dry, sterile and insect-free. A mixture of perlite and coconut bran (1:2) is recommended for most succulents.
*Illumination
When raising succulent plant indoors, place it in the window with sufficient sunshine or balcony aptly.If the summer temperature is too high, you can use a shading net with a 70% shading rate, and avoid 12-15 hours of sun exposure.
*Moisture
The principle of succulent plant watering is to water less and thoroughly,and avoid accumulating water. Spring and fall are the growing seasons for succulents, and the best time to water is when the leaves below begin to dry out. Summer is the dormancy season of succulent plants, mainly by spray watering, keep the surface of the basin soil wet.Water less often in winter.
*Temperature
Succulents are native to South Africa, where the optimum growth temperature is between 12 and 28 degrees Celsius. Therefore, the spring and autumn are the most vigorous seasons for succulents.Make sure the room temperature is above 8 degrees Celsius in winter and below 35 degrees Celsius in summer, and pay attention to ventilation and cooling.
Hope those tips may help you! Enjoying your plant!
* Soil
Succulents are suitable for use in soils that are permeable to water and air, dry, sterile and insect-free. A mixture of perlite and coconut bran (1:2) is recommended for most succulents.
*Illumination
When raising succulent plant indoors, place it in the window with sufficient sunshine or balcony aptly.If the summer temperature is too high, you can use a shading net with a 70% shading rate, and avoid 12-15 hours of sun exposure.
*Moisture
The principle of succulent plant watering is to water less and thoroughly,and avoid accumulating water. Spring and fall are the growing seasons for succulents, and the best time to water is when the leaves below begin to dry out. Summer is the dormancy season of succulent plants, mainly by spray watering, keep the surface of the basin soil wet.Water less often in winter.
*Temperature
Succulents are native to South Africa, where the optimum growth temperature is between 12 and 28 degrees Celsius. Therefore, the spring and autumn are the most vigorous seasons for succulents.Make sure the room temperature is above 8 degrees Celsius in winter and below 35 degrees Celsius in summer, and pay attention to ventilation and cooling.
Hope those tips may help you! Enjoying your plant!
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成长记
kensong
2019年03月17日
Golden Hahnii pup from Mona. They seem to be susceptible to fungal rot so best to use fresh soil.
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成长记
kensong
2019年01月12日
Roots looked okay so hopefully they will survive. Lesson - use porous topping and smaller pots so the media can dry faster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Russian sage is a 3 to 5-foot tall perennial with purplish blue flowers and silver foliage. It has fragrant leaves and it blooms from mid-summer season to the fall. It is a good plant for fall color in the garden, to use for dried or cut flowers, or to attract butterflies. Russian sage can be propagated by division every three years in the spring season or fall.
Step 1
Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active.
Step 2
Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged.
Step 3
Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands.
Step 4
Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting.
Step 5
Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6
Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue.
Step 7
Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability).
Step 8
Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
Step 1
Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active.
Step 2
Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged.
Step 3
Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands.
Step 4
Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting.
Step 5
Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6
Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue.
Step 7
Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability).
Step 8
Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Sometimes, divide and conquer is the best way to deal with unruly established hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) or those that you planted in too tight a spot. You can use the same technique recommended for dividing most perennials -- digging up the plant at the most auspicious moment and dividing the root clump into two or more plants.
Hefty Hydrangeas
You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby.
Dividing a Hydrangea
The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar.
What Flowers When
Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall.
Long Division
If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces
Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
Hefty Hydrangeas
You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby.
Dividing a Hydrangea
The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar.
What Flowers When
Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall.
Long Division
If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces
Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月27日
A hanging basket provides a colorful show of blooms during summer. Use perennial plants for your hanging basket for lasting value, since they start to grow again in spring. Choose different varieties of plants for volume and interest. Use trailing plants to hang over the side of the basket and add foliage plants as a green background to bright colored flowers. Water a hanging basket daily, and dead-head the flowers regularly to ensure a continuous display.
Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers
Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented.
Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers
Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer.
Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial.
Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth.
Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background.
An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin.
Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season.
The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season.
Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket.
The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
Dianthus
A profusion of summer flowers
Normally known as carnations or pinks, the dianthus comes in over 300 varieties. A good border flower for cutting, several species are compact enough for planting in the center of a basket, providing a profusion of flowers during summer. Available in a range of bright colors, many of the blooms are scented.
Fuchsia
Ballerina-like fuchsia flowers
Available in a variety of species, a trailing fuchsia, such as the white and crimson "Cascade," makes an ideal, colorful plant to grow over the edge of a hanging basket. The different types of fuchsia produce pretty, ballerina-like flowers in shades of pink and white and they are easy to grow all summer.
Geranium
The geranium is a hardy perennial.
Normally used for ground cover in gardens, the ivy-leaved geranium is an excellent trailer that adds depth to a display. With evergreen leaves and delicate pink or lilac flowers, the geranium is a hardy perennial which blooms for most of the summer. Remove flowered stems and old leaves to encourage new growth.
Ivy (Hedera)
Variegated ivy provides a green background.
An evergreen, hardy plant, the ivy comes with a variety of leaf shapes and variegation. It is a perfect perennial for providing a background for more showy colors, as it trails gracefully from hanging baskets. Keep the leaves clipped to maintain its shape. Be careful to wear gloves as ivy sap may irritate the skin.
Petunia
A perennial petunia flowers all season.
The petunia plant is available in a variety of species, from the large-flowered grandiflora to the bushier multiflora. Ranging from pink and red, to violet and white, there is a perennial petunia to suit all color schemes. The "Surfina Series'" of grandiflora petunia has a trailing habit which is ideal for hanging baskets. They are available only as young plants and flower well all season.
Viola
The viola brightens a hanging basket.
The evergreen viola is a fast growing plant that provides masses of pretty flowers during summer in shades of purple, white or lavender. Dead-head to prolong flowering for as long as possible. With rich, velvet colors, the viola x wittrockiana, commonly known as the pansy, brightens up the center of hanging baskets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月19日
The average American adult eats more than his weight in potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) every year. This annual crop -- a staple in diets the world over -- can be harvested for immediate eating or stored for later use. Be sure to get them all safely stored before they are subjected to a hard frost, or you may lose your crop. Potatoes come in many different varieties, but all are harvested in the same manner.
Watch the Vines
One of the best indicators for deciding when to harvest your potatoes is the condition of the vines. Let your potatoes grow until the vines die, drying out and turning brown. This very visual clue tells you it is time to harvest. This is not the same as what happens when the vines freeze; frozen vines will turn black and begin to rot. Before you dig up all of your potatoes, check them for readiness to make sure that they are mature enough to harvest and will store well. Cured potatoes can be stored at a temperature of around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Check for Readiness
After the potato vines have died, leave the potatoes in the ground another two or three weeks. Next, you'll need to check your potatoes for maturity. Carefully dig up one or two hills of potatoes and pick up some of the tubers. Rub the skin with your thumb or fingers. If the skin slides or rubs off easily, your potatoes are not ready for harvest and won't store well if you dig them now. Leave the rest of your crop in the ground a few more days and then check again. Eat immature potatoes soon after digging, since you won't be able to store them.
Watch the Calendar
Seed potatoes used for planting indicate how long it will be from the time you plant them until they are mature, usually from 80 to about 115 days. Consider the times a guideline, since variables in soil conditions, climate and rainfall can all affect how long it takes your potatoes to be ready. Mark the planting date on your calendar and then mark the potential maturity date. Start checking your potatoes near the maturity date and harvest them when they are large enough and the skins don't slip.
Early Potato Harvest
You don't have to wait for potatoes to mature before harvesting some of them. Small, immature potatoes, generally called new potatoes, can be harvested any time after the tubers have begun to form and are an inch or more in diameter. Loosen the soil near a potato vine and carefully dig into the hill or ridge where the potatoes are growing. Remove just enough for immediate use because immature potatoes can't be stored. Replace the dirt to let the rest of the potatoes continue growing.
Watch the Vines
One of the best indicators for deciding when to harvest your potatoes is the condition of the vines. Let your potatoes grow until the vines die, drying out and turning brown. This very visual clue tells you it is time to harvest. This is not the same as what happens when the vines freeze; frozen vines will turn black and begin to rot. Before you dig up all of your potatoes, check them for readiness to make sure that they are mature enough to harvest and will store well. Cured potatoes can be stored at a temperature of around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Check for Readiness
After the potato vines have died, leave the potatoes in the ground another two or three weeks. Next, you'll need to check your potatoes for maturity. Carefully dig up one or two hills of potatoes and pick up some of the tubers. Rub the skin with your thumb or fingers. If the skin slides or rubs off easily, your potatoes are not ready for harvest and won't store well if you dig them now. Leave the rest of your crop in the ground a few more days and then check again. Eat immature potatoes soon after digging, since you won't be able to store them.
Watch the Calendar
Seed potatoes used for planting indicate how long it will be from the time you plant them until they are mature, usually from 80 to about 115 days. Consider the times a guideline, since variables in soil conditions, climate and rainfall can all affect how long it takes your potatoes to be ready. Mark the planting date on your calendar and then mark the potential maturity date. Start checking your potatoes near the maturity date and harvest them when they are large enough and the skins don't slip.
Early Potato Harvest
You don't have to wait for potatoes to mature before harvesting some of them. Small, immature potatoes, generally called new potatoes, can be harvested any time after the tubers have begun to form and are an inch or more in diameter. Loosen the soil near a potato vine and carefully dig into the hill or ridge where the potatoes are growing. Remove just enough for immediate use because immature potatoes can't be stored. Replace the dirt to let the rest of the potatoes continue growing.
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成长记
kensong
2018年06月07日
My Coleus rooted! I did use rooting hormone so I'm wondering if that speeded it up.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月29日
Avocados generally ripen within two to three days after you purchase them, but you can slow down the ripening process if you do not plan to use them soon. If you need to use the avocado sooner, you can speed up the ripening process so that the avocado feels soft and has a darker green appearance.
Step 1
Select avocados that are light green and firm. Store the avocados in the refrigerator in the produce drawer.
Step 2
Keep the avocados in the refrigerator for three to five days. The refrigerator helps to slow down the ripening.
Step 3
Remove the avocados from the refrigerator two days before you plan to prepare them. Place them in a warm location so that they will ripen fully. If you need the avocados to ripen faster, store them in a brown paper bag with a ripe banana.
Step 1
Select avocados that are light green and firm. Store the avocados in the refrigerator in the produce drawer.
Step 2
Keep the avocados in the refrigerator for three to five days. The refrigerator helps to slow down the ripening.
Step 3
Remove the avocados from the refrigerator two days before you plan to prepare them. Place them in a warm location so that they will ripen fully. If you need the avocados to ripen faster, store them in a brown paper bag with a ripe banana.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月17日
If you want an abundant crop of orange pumpkins for use at Halloween or for making pies for Thanksgiving, Ohioans must prepare a garden plot and plant after danger of frost passes in spring. Depending on pumpkin cultivar, a warm growing period of 100 to 120 days allows the pumpkin vine to flower and develop harvestable fruits. If possible, time the spring planting so that the pumpkins ripen on the vine in early October.
Planting Time
Pumpkins do not tolerate frost. Across the vast majority of Ohio, the last frost in spring occurs anytime from April 21 to May 10, depending on latitude and elevation. Contact your local cooperative extension office to learn of the last spring frost date in your county, or speak to staff at your local garden center. Wait an additional two to four weeks after your area's last frost date to allow the garden soil to sufficiently warm to at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. An appropriate pumpkin planting time frame is from mid-May to early June in most parts of Ohio.
Timing Considerations
Because pumpkins take 100 to 120 days from germination to harvest, you don't want to plant pumpkin seeds or transplants too early in spring. Although you must avoid frost, cool soil temperatures inhibit growth and may lead to root rot. Pumpkins tend to soften and rot on the vine if they ripen too early, such as in late August or September. Aim for pumpkins to pick around October 1. Look at the pumpkin seed packet for the "days to harvest" data. Count backward that number of days from the target October harvest date. This provides you the ideal sowing date in your Ohio locale.
Planting Pumpkin Seeds
Sow pumpkin seeds in hills. A hill is a shallow planting basin about 1 inch deep and 6 to 10 inches wide. Place four or five pumpkin seeds in the hill and cover with 1 inch of soil. Additional hills need to be spaced 6 to 10 feet apart. Hills oriented in long rows need about 15 feet between rows. This allows room for the sprawling vines to grow and still receive ample sunlight.
Growing Giant Pumpkins
Everyone admires a gigantic pumpkin to use as a jack-o' lantern around Halloween. The pumpkin varieties that produce the largest fruits need at least 120 days to germinate, grow and produce ripe pumpkins. According to David A. Mangione of the Ohio State University Extension, it's behooving to start seeds of these long-maturation pumpkins indoors about two weeks before planting them outdoors. He suggests sowing seeds indoors in late April and transplanted them outdoors in May or June when soil is warm and frosts no longer occur.
Planting Time
Pumpkins do not tolerate frost. Across the vast majority of Ohio, the last frost in spring occurs anytime from April 21 to May 10, depending on latitude and elevation. Contact your local cooperative extension office to learn of the last spring frost date in your county, or speak to staff at your local garden center. Wait an additional two to four weeks after your area's last frost date to allow the garden soil to sufficiently warm to at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit. An appropriate pumpkin planting time frame is from mid-May to early June in most parts of Ohio.
Timing Considerations
Because pumpkins take 100 to 120 days from germination to harvest, you don't want to plant pumpkin seeds or transplants too early in spring. Although you must avoid frost, cool soil temperatures inhibit growth and may lead to root rot. Pumpkins tend to soften and rot on the vine if they ripen too early, such as in late August or September. Aim for pumpkins to pick around October 1. Look at the pumpkin seed packet for the "days to harvest" data. Count backward that number of days from the target October harvest date. This provides you the ideal sowing date in your Ohio locale.
Planting Pumpkin Seeds
Sow pumpkin seeds in hills. A hill is a shallow planting basin about 1 inch deep and 6 to 10 inches wide. Place four or five pumpkin seeds in the hill and cover with 1 inch of soil. Additional hills need to be spaced 6 to 10 feet apart. Hills oriented in long rows need about 15 feet between rows. This allows room for the sprawling vines to grow and still receive ample sunlight.
Growing Giant Pumpkins
Everyone admires a gigantic pumpkin to use as a jack-o' lantern around Halloween. The pumpkin varieties that produce the largest fruits need at least 120 days to germinate, grow and produce ripe pumpkins. According to David A. Mangione of the Ohio State University Extension, it's behooving to start seeds of these long-maturation pumpkins indoors about two weeks before planting them outdoors. He suggests sowing seeds indoors in late April and transplanted them outdoors in May or June when soil is warm and frosts no longer occur.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
While gardeners grow a number of varieties of beans, the bush and pole types of the string or green bean is the most common. These beans produce a pod that is harvested before maturity for use green or allowed to mature for dry beans. In the case of dry beans the seeds are removed from the pods.
Blooming
In some circumstances bean plants bloom but fail to set pods. Common causes include excessive nitrogen fertilization or warm conditions with low humidity. Fertilize after the first harvest to avoid over fertilization although the weather is often outside the gardener's control.
Harvest Time
Harvest the beans about two weeks after the full bloom. Actual harvest may dates vary depending on weather and other factors. Bean plants continue to bloom as long as the pods are harvested before maturity. This results in an almost continuous cycle of blooms and harvests. Harvest about once a week to gather the pods at the proper size. The harvest cycle occurs more frequently than the length of time from bloom to harvest because not all plants will be at the same maturity point.
Harvest Methods
Harvest by hand working carefully to avoid breakage to stems and other blossom bearing structures. Avoid harvest during times the plants are damp or wet with rain or dew. This can spread diseases within the bean plants.
Continued Harvest
As long as the pods are harvested before maturity the plants will continue to develop blooms and pods until the plant is killed by fall frosts. The cycle of harvestable beans two weeks after the full blooms continues through the summer.
Blooming
In some circumstances bean plants bloom but fail to set pods. Common causes include excessive nitrogen fertilization or warm conditions with low humidity. Fertilize after the first harvest to avoid over fertilization although the weather is often outside the gardener's control.
Harvest Time
Harvest the beans about two weeks after the full bloom. Actual harvest may dates vary depending on weather and other factors. Bean plants continue to bloom as long as the pods are harvested before maturity. This results in an almost continuous cycle of blooms and harvests. Harvest about once a week to gather the pods at the proper size. The harvest cycle occurs more frequently than the length of time from bloom to harvest because not all plants will be at the same maturity point.
Harvest Methods
Harvest by hand working carefully to avoid breakage to stems and other blossom bearing structures. Avoid harvest during times the plants are damp or wet with rain or dew. This can spread diseases within the bean plants.
Continued Harvest
As long as the pods are harvested before maturity the plants will continue to develop blooms and pods until the plant is killed by fall frosts. The cycle of harvestable beans two weeks after the full blooms continues through the summer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
The spicy flavor of a fresh radish is most pronounced immediately after harvest. Proper storage helps retain the flavor and quality of any radishes you can't use right away. Harvest radishes when the roots are about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Smaller roots haven't developed their full flavor and larger roots become tough and woody. Prepare and store the radishes immediately after pulling so the roots don't begin to decline or lose their signature flavor.
Step 1
Cut the tops off the radish with a sharp, clean knife. Leave 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the top of the bulb.
Step 2
Place the radishes in a perforated plastic storage bag. A perforated bag allows air circulation while retaining moisture during storage. Store in an open plastic bag if you don't have perforated bags.
Step 3
Store the bagged radishes in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Store the radishes for up to a month in the refrigerator.
Step 4
Inspect the radishes once weekly. Use them immediately if they begin to discolor or develop soft spots.
Step 1
Cut the tops off the radish with a sharp, clean knife. Leave 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the top of the bulb.
Step 2
Place the radishes in a perforated plastic storage bag. A perforated bag allows air circulation while retaining moisture during storage. Store in an open plastic bag if you don't have perforated bags.
Step 3
Store the bagged radishes in the vegetable crisper drawer of the refrigerator. Store the radishes for up to a month in the refrigerator.
Step 4
Inspect the radishes once weekly. Use them immediately if they begin to discolor or develop soft spots.
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