文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing marjoram is a great way to add both flavor and fragrance in the kitchen or garden. Marjoram plants are also great for attracting butterflies and other beneficial insects to the garden, making them ideal for use as companion plantings. Let’s look at how to grow marjoram.
What is Marjoram?
Marjoram (Origanum majorana) is an easy to grow herb well suited for growing in containers as well as the garden. There are generally three varieties that are commonly grown: sweet marjoram, pot marjoram, and wild marjoram (also known as common oregano). All types of marjoram are popular for use in the kitchen as seasoning for numerous dishes. They’re also grown for their enticing fragrance.
How to Grow Marjoram Herbs
Although marjoram plants are tender perennials, they are typically treated as annuals as freezing temperatures will cause serious injury or death to the plants. When growing marjoram plants, it’s generally best to start the seeds indoors during late winter or early spring. Push seeds just below the soil surface. Seedlings can be transplanted outdoors once all threat of frost has passed. Marjoram should be located in areas receiving full sun with light, well-drained soil. Likewise, marjoram plants can be grown in containers indoors and treated as houseplants.
Marjoram Plant Care
Established plants require little care, other than occasional watering. Since marjoram is tolerant of drought, it makes an exceptional plant for beginner herb growers. If you forget to water it, that’s okay. There’s no need for fertilizer either when growing marjoram herbs. It’s hardy enough to basically care for itself. During mild weather, marjoram plants grown indoors can be taken outside and placed in a sunny area. However, container-grown plants should always be moved indoors or to another sheltered location once cold temperatures or frost is imminent.
Harvesting and Drying Marjoram Plants
In addition to growing marjoram herbs for aesthetic purposes, many people harvest the plant for use in the kitchen. When harvesting marjoram, pick the shoots just before flowers begin to open. This results in the best flavor, as fully opened blooms produce a bitter taste. Bundle marjoram cuttings and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area. When you know how to grow marjoram, you can add it to your herb garden.
What is Marjoram?
Marjoram (Origanum majorana) is an easy to grow herb well suited for growing in containers as well as the garden. There are generally three varieties that are commonly grown: sweet marjoram, pot marjoram, and wild marjoram (also known as common oregano). All types of marjoram are popular for use in the kitchen as seasoning for numerous dishes. They’re also grown for their enticing fragrance.
How to Grow Marjoram Herbs
Although marjoram plants are tender perennials, they are typically treated as annuals as freezing temperatures will cause serious injury or death to the plants. When growing marjoram plants, it’s generally best to start the seeds indoors during late winter or early spring. Push seeds just below the soil surface. Seedlings can be transplanted outdoors once all threat of frost has passed. Marjoram should be located in areas receiving full sun with light, well-drained soil. Likewise, marjoram plants can be grown in containers indoors and treated as houseplants.
Marjoram Plant Care
Established plants require little care, other than occasional watering. Since marjoram is tolerant of drought, it makes an exceptional plant for beginner herb growers. If you forget to water it, that’s okay. There’s no need for fertilizer either when growing marjoram herbs. It’s hardy enough to basically care for itself. During mild weather, marjoram plants grown indoors can be taken outside and placed in a sunny area. However, container-grown plants should always be moved indoors or to another sheltered location once cold temperatures or frost is imminent.
Harvesting and Drying Marjoram Plants
In addition to growing marjoram herbs for aesthetic purposes, many people harvest the plant for use in the kitchen. When harvesting marjoram, pick the shoots just before flowers begin to open. This results in the best flavor, as fully opened blooms produce a bitter taste. Bundle marjoram cuttings and hang them upside down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area. When you know how to grow marjoram, you can add it to your herb garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
The fennel herb (Foeniculum vulgare) has a long and varied history of use. The Egyptians and the Chinese used it strictly for medicinal purposes and their lore was brought back to Europe by early traders. During the Middle Ages, it was believed to hold magical qualities and people hung fennel plants over their doors to drive away evil spirits. Eventually, someone recognized its use as a flavoring for eggs and fish. Today, its crisp anise flavor makes it a favorite of cooks everywhere. Native to southern Europe, the fennel herb is now naturalized throughout Europe, North America and Australia and grown in gardens all over the world.
Planting Fennel
You’ll find two methods of propagation when researching how to grow fennel. Plants may be divided, but this isn’t as easy as it is with other garden plants and often proves unsatisfactory. Like their aforementioned cousins, the fennel herb has a long tap root that doesn’t like to be divided or moved. Planting fennel by seed is the much easier option. Seed can be sown as soon as the soil warms in the spring. Soaking your seeds for a day or two before sowing will ensure better germination. Keep the area moist until the seeds sprout and thin the fennel plants to 12 to 18 inches apart when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. Plants will begin flowering about 90 days after planting.
Growing Fennel
The steps for how to grow fennel are fairly simple since the fennel herb is such an agreeable garden plant. It belongs to the carrot and parsley family and is a cousin to other herbs such as caraway, dill and cumin. Like these other herbs, fennel plants produce aromatic fruits which are commonly, though incorrectly, referred to as seeds. When growing fennel, choose a sunny location in the back of a well drained bed. The fine textured foliage can grow up to 6 feet tall and makes an excellent backdrop for other flower planting. Fennel is a short lived perennial that blooms best in the second year. It readily re-seeds and while not considered invasive, it has certainly earned its reputation for aggressive growing. Fennel can be cut back early in the season to encourage bushier growth and should be deadheaded for seed harvest and to prevent over seeding of new plants.
Harvest and dry seeds as the flower heads fade. There’s only one restriction to how to grow fennel: don’t plant it near dill. Cross pollination results in strangely flavored seeds for both plants! Once established, fennel herb doesn’t need much care. It prefers acid soil, appreciates the occasional dose of mild fertilizer and a little additional water if the weather is hot and dry. In addition to its kitchen contributions, planting fennel will attract beneficial insects to the garden and its leaves are a favorite with the caterpillars of the swallowtail butterfly. Whether grown for its culinary value or strictly as on ornamental, growing fennel herb will be an easy and attractive addition to your garden.
Planting Fennel
You’ll find two methods of propagation when researching how to grow fennel. Plants may be divided, but this isn’t as easy as it is with other garden plants and often proves unsatisfactory. Like their aforementioned cousins, the fennel herb has a long tap root that doesn’t like to be divided or moved. Planting fennel by seed is the much easier option. Seed can be sown as soon as the soil warms in the spring. Soaking your seeds for a day or two before sowing will ensure better germination. Keep the area moist until the seeds sprout and thin the fennel plants to 12 to 18 inches apart when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. Plants will begin flowering about 90 days after planting.
Growing Fennel
The steps for how to grow fennel are fairly simple since the fennel herb is such an agreeable garden plant. It belongs to the carrot and parsley family and is a cousin to other herbs such as caraway, dill and cumin. Like these other herbs, fennel plants produce aromatic fruits which are commonly, though incorrectly, referred to as seeds. When growing fennel, choose a sunny location in the back of a well drained bed. The fine textured foliage can grow up to 6 feet tall and makes an excellent backdrop for other flower planting. Fennel is a short lived perennial that blooms best in the second year. It readily re-seeds and while not considered invasive, it has certainly earned its reputation for aggressive growing. Fennel can be cut back early in the season to encourage bushier growth and should be deadheaded for seed harvest and to prevent over seeding of new plants.
Harvest and dry seeds as the flower heads fade. There’s only one restriction to how to grow fennel: don’t plant it near dill. Cross pollination results in strangely flavored seeds for both plants! Once established, fennel herb doesn’t need much care. It prefers acid soil, appreciates the occasional dose of mild fertilizer and a little additional water if the weather is hot and dry. In addition to its kitchen contributions, planting fennel will attract beneficial insects to the garden and its leaves are a favorite with the caterpillars of the swallowtail butterfly. Whether grown for its culinary value or strictly as on ornamental, growing fennel herb will be an easy and attractive addition to your garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Companion planting is a centuries-old technique that by locating various plants in close proximity, creates conditions that enhance growing conditions by repelling pests, attracting pollinators, and making the best use of available space. When it comes to companion plants for dill, most of the following suggestions have not been tested in scientific labs, but are highly recommended by experienced gardeners – often by trial and error.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing chives indoors make perfect sense so that you may have them near the kitchen. Use chives liberally in dishes; chives growing indoors will benefit from a regular trim. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chives indoors.
How to Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40-watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside. Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity. Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low dose fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month; heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives. When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellent, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips for Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a 6-inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch deep. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
How to Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40-watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside. Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity. Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low dose fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month; heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives. When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellent, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips for Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a 6-inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch deep. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives are low-maintenance denizens of the herb garden, and they’re handy when you want to snip a few for use in recipes or topping baked potatoes. The only problem is that these easy-to-grow plants aren’t always well behaved and before you know it, they can escape their boundaries and pop up in places where you don’t want them – including your well-tended lawn. Read on for helpful tips for controlling chives and ridding lawns of chive plants.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Combining uses for plants in the garden brings a utilitarian and beautification aspect to the landscape. An example might be planting culinary or medicinal herbs that also bloom or have appealing foliage. Bupleurum is an excellent plant for such use. What is bupleurum? It is a plant with a long history as an Asian herbal medicine and is a lovely foil for many other types of plants. Growing bupleurum in the garden bed brings in traditional natural medicine paired with unmatched annual color.
What is Bupleurum?
Although bupleurum is from Asia, it can’t really be classed as a cool season or warm season annual. The plant is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to10, a pretty broad spectrum for a leafy herb. Most gardeners across North America and beyond can learn how to grow bupleurum and keep a ready supply of this useful herb on hand, either fresh or dried.
Once a common name among Chinese herb plant info, Bupleurum gibraltaricum, or hare’s ear, grows readily from seed. It can be recognized by bluish-green foliage which resembles eucalyptus leaves. The flowers are useful in a cut garden and arrive in yellowish green umbels. Most species grow about 24 inches tall (61 cm.) with a 12-inch spread (30.5 cm.). Although the plant is generally considered to be annual, it can be a short-lived perennial in frost-free zones. The plant has a dense, compact habit that contrasts nicely with other herbs or when added to the cut flower garden. The herb blooms from mid-summer all the way into fall and the first frost. Bupleurum is closely related to fennel, dill and other umbel-forming plants.
Chinese Herb Plant Info
Unless you are a long-time herbalist or licensed practitioner of herbal medicine, it is inadvisable to try to medicate yourself with this herb. However, it has been used for centuries to relieve such problems as arthritis, menopause, skin ailments, some ulcers and mental disorders. It has even been found to have use calming the withdrawal of steroid use. Much of the plant’s power comes from the high level of saponins found concentrated in the roots. Expert advice warns against side effects such as dizziness and headaches. Most of us wouldn’t be growing bupleurum for such uses, but it is nonetheless an attractive addition to any landscape situation.
How to Grow Bupleurum
Seed germination can be capricious, but starting the herb from seed is the most common method. Sow seed in a well-draining, prepared garden bed when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). Surface sow and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep moderately moist until germination, usually in 14 days. Thin plants until they are spaced 12 inches apart (30.5 cm). In frost free zones, divide the plant in spring. Bupleurum needs little extra food and has few insect and pest issues. As a cut flower it lasts for 7 to 10 days. This lovely plant is underused but care of bupleurum plants is relatively easy and low maintenance. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
What is Bupleurum?
Although bupleurum is from Asia, it can’t really be classed as a cool season or warm season annual. The plant is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to10, a pretty broad spectrum for a leafy herb. Most gardeners across North America and beyond can learn how to grow bupleurum and keep a ready supply of this useful herb on hand, either fresh or dried.
Once a common name among Chinese herb plant info, Bupleurum gibraltaricum, or hare’s ear, grows readily from seed. It can be recognized by bluish-green foliage which resembles eucalyptus leaves. The flowers are useful in a cut garden and arrive in yellowish green umbels. Most species grow about 24 inches tall (61 cm.) with a 12-inch spread (30.5 cm.). Although the plant is generally considered to be annual, it can be a short-lived perennial in frost-free zones. The plant has a dense, compact habit that contrasts nicely with other herbs or when added to the cut flower garden. The herb blooms from mid-summer all the way into fall and the first frost. Bupleurum is closely related to fennel, dill and other umbel-forming plants.
Chinese Herb Plant Info
Unless you are a long-time herbalist or licensed practitioner of herbal medicine, it is inadvisable to try to medicate yourself with this herb. However, it has been used for centuries to relieve such problems as arthritis, menopause, skin ailments, some ulcers and mental disorders. It has even been found to have use calming the withdrawal of steroid use. Much of the plant’s power comes from the high level of saponins found concentrated in the roots. Expert advice warns against side effects such as dizziness and headaches. Most of us wouldn’t be growing bupleurum for such uses, but it is nonetheless an attractive addition to any landscape situation.
How to Grow Bupleurum
Seed germination can be capricious, but starting the herb from seed is the most common method. Sow seed in a well-draining, prepared garden bed when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 C.). Surface sow and cover with a light dusting of soil. Keep moderately moist until germination, usually in 14 days. Thin plants until they are spaced 12 inches apart (30.5 cm). In frost free zones, divide the plant in spring. Bupleurum needs little extra food and has few insect and pest issues. As a cut flower it lasts for 7 to 10 days. This lovely plant is underused but care of bupleurum plants is relatively easy and low maintenance. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
There are plants you just want to touch and woolly thyme plants (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) are just one of them. Woolly thyme is a perennial herb, with medicinal and culinary uses in addition to ornamental use. Try growing woolly thyme in the cracks between paving stones, along a gravel path or as part of a xeriscape or drought tolerant garden. The herb doesn’t mind a bit of rough handling and can be trod upon with no ill effects. In fact, when stepped on, woolly thyme ground cover emits a pleasant fragrance. Here is more information on how to grow woolly thyme so your toes can enjoy the soft furriness and your nose the sweet scent of this magical little plant.
Woolly Thyme Plant Information
Thyme is one of the more hardy herbs perfect for hot sunny locations. Once established, it tolerates dry conditions and spreads slowly, eventually creating a thick mat of foliage. Tiny leaves on woolly thyme ground cover are green and often edged with gray to silver. In summer the plant adds a bonus and produces sweet little pink to purple flowers. The plants are low growing, rarely getting higher than 12 inches and spreading out to 18 inches in width. Woolly thyme plants are perennial and survive in USDA zones 4 to 7 but sometimes up to zone 9 with sheltered locations during the heat of the day. Little is needed from the gardener with woolly thyme care. This almost self-sustaining plant is a treat for the unmotivated or the just plain too busy gardener.
Growing Woolly Thyme
Thyme is a member of the mint family and as tenacious and sturdy as other members of the group, so when planting woolly thyme, put it in an area where spread is desirable. Woolly thyme plants can be easily started from seed indoors or from small plugs that are readily available at your local nursery. Keep in mind, however, that those started from seed could take up to a year before they are ready for transplant outdoors. This herb prefers full sun, but will perform in partial shade. When growing woolly thyme ground cover, plant in well draining soil. Preparation of the soil is important. Rake out rocks and impurities and ensure proper drainage. If your soil is suspiciously boggy, amend it with generous amounts of sand or gravel worked into the top 6 to 8 inches. Plant the thyme in early spring after all danger of frost has passed for the best results with spacing of 12 inches. Don’t worry if they look sparse at first. It will soon fill in to a thick carpet of softness.
Woolly Thyme Care
Once established, woolly thyme is drought resistant and care is minimal when plants are grown in soil with the right drainage. Woolly thyme ground cover may become snack food for aphids and spider mites. Protect it with frequent spraying of an organic horticultural soap. Other than that and the occasional supplemental watering in the hottest months, the herb is best ignored. It is almost a “plant it and forget it” type of herb. Woolly thyme care doesn’t necessarily include fertilization, although an all purpose food may help specimens that are not responding to pruning or that are turning brown. More likely, browning of this plant is because of poor soil drainage. Remove the plant if possible, and amend the soil or plant in a different area. Learning how to grow woolly thyme successfully and how to properly care for woolly thyme will include clipping and trimming. Trim back edges of the woolly thyme plant to encourage it to grow thicker. Be sure to use the clippings for cooking, potpourri or in the bath. Hardy herbs are one of the best kept secrets for the novice gardener. Woolly thyme ground cover complements upright herbs and can help keep weeding to a minimum by shading out their seeds. Woolly thyme also grows well in mixed containers, cascading down the sides of the pot. Woolly thyme attracts pollinators too. In fact, bees will line up to sample the sweet flowers.
Woolly Thyme Plant Information
Thyme is one of the more hardy herbs perfect for hot sunny locations. Once established, it tolerates dry conditions and spreads slowly, eventually creating a thick mat of foliage. Tiny leaves on woolly thyme ground cover are green and often edged with gray to silver. In summer the plant adds a bonus and produces sweet little pink to purple flowers. The plants are low growing, rarely getting higher than 12 inches and spreading out to 18 inches in width. Woolly thyme plants are perennial and survive in USDA zones 4 to 7 but sometimes up to zone 9 with sheltered locations during the heat of the day. Little is needed from the gardener with woolly thyme care. This almost self-sustaining plant is a treat for the unmotivated or the just plain too busy gardener.
Growing Woolly Thyme
Thyme is a member of the mint family and as tenacious and sturdy as other members of the group, so when planting woolly thyme, put it in an area where spread is desirable. Woolly thyme plants can be easily started from seed indoors or from small plugs that are readily available at your local nursery. Keep in mind, however, that those started from seed could take up to a year before they are ready for transplant outdoors. This herb prefers full sun, but will perform in partial shade. When growing woolly thyme ground cover, plant in well draining soil. Preparation of the soil is important. Rake out rocks and impurities and ensure proper drainage. If your soil is suspiciously boggy, amend it with generous amounts of sand or gravel worked into the top 6 to 8 inches. Plant the thyme in early spring after all danger of frost has passed for the best results with spacing of 12 inches. Don’t worry if they look sparse at first. It will soon fill in to a thick carpet of softness.
Woolly Thyme Care
Once established, woolly thyme is drought resistant and care is minimal when plants are grown in soil with the right drainage. Woolly thyme ground cover may become snack food for aphids and spider mites. Protect it with frequent spraying of an organic horticultural soap. Other than that and the occasional supplemental watering in the hottest months, the herb is best ignored. It is almost a “plant it and forget it” type of herb. Woolly thyme care doesn’t necessarily include fertilization, although an all purpose food may help specimens that are not responding to pruning or that are turning brown. More likely, browning of this plant is because of poor soil drainage. Remove the plant if possible, and amend the soil or plant in a different area. Learning how to grow woolly thyme successfully and how to properly care for woolly thyme will include clipping and trimming. Trim back edges of the woolly thyme plant to encourage it to grow thicker. Be sure to use the clippings for cooking, potpourri or in the bath. Hardy herbs are one of the best kept secrets for the novice gardener. Woolly thyme ground cover complements upright herbs and can help keep weeding to a minimum by shading out their seeds. Woolly thyme also grows well in mixed containers, cascading down the sides of the pot. Woolly thyme attracts pollinators too. In fact, bees will line up to sample the sweet flowers.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The sorrel herb is a tangy, lemony flavored plant. The youngest leaves have a slightly more acidic taste, but you can use mature leaves steamed or sautéed like spinach. Sorrel is also called sour dock and is a perennial herb that grows wild in many parts of the world. The herb is widely used in French cuisine but not as well known in the United States. Learn how to grow sorrel and add a citrus touch to your culinary herb garden.
Sorrel Plant
There are many varieties of sorrel plant but the most commonly used in cooking is French sorrel (Rumex scutatus). Sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella) is native to North America and is not palatable to humans but produces nutritious fodder for animals. Leaf sorrel is cultivated as a garden herb and grows 2 feet high with upright stems. The leaves are smooth to crinkled and are from 3 to 6 inches long. When sorrel herb bolts, it produces an attractive whorled purple flower.
Planting Sorrel
Sow seeds for sorrel plant in spring when the soil has warmed up. Prepare a well drained bed with well tilled soil. Seeds should be 6 inches apart and just under the surface of the soil. Keep the bed moderately moist until germination and then thin the plants when they reach 2 inches high. Sorrel will not need a lot of supplemental care, but the bed does need to be kept weeded and the plants should receive at least 1 inch of water per week.
How to Grow Sorrel
Garden sorrel (Rumex acetosa) and French sorrel are the two cultivated varieties of the herb. Garden sorrel needs damp soils and temperate conditions. French sorrel performs best when it is grown in dry, open areas with inhospitable soils. The plants have very deep and persistent tap roots and grow well with little attention. Planting sorrel from seed or dividing the roots are the two most common ways to propagate the herb. Sorrel will usually bolt when temperatures begin to soar, usually in June or July. When this happens, you can allow the flower to bloom and enjoy it, but this slows the production of leaves. If you want to encourage larger and more leaf production, cut the flower stalk off and the plant will give you a few more harvests. You can even cut the plant to the ground and it will produce a full new crop of foliage.
Harvesting Sorrel Herb
Sorrel can be used from late spring until fall, with management. Harvest only what you need from the plant. It is much like lettuce and greens, where you can cut the outer leaves and the plant will continue to produce foliage. You can begin to harvest when the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. The smallest leaves are best in salads and add an acidic tang. The larger leaves are more mellow. The herb is a traditional accompaniment to eggs and melts into creamy soups and sauces.
Sorrel Plant
There are many varieties of sorrel plant but the most commonly used in cooking is French sorrel (Rumex scutatus). Sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella) is native to North America and is not palatable to humans but produces nutritious fodder for animals. Leaf sorrel is cultivated as a garden herb and grows 2 feet high with upright stems. The leaves are smooth to crinkled and are from 3 to 6 inches long. When sorrel herb bolts, it produces an attractive whorled purple flower.
Planting Sorrel
Sow seeds for sorrel plant in spring when the soil has warmed up. Prepare a well drained bed with well tilled soil. Seeds should be 6 inches apart and just under the surface of the soil. Keep the bed moderately moist until germination and then thin the plants when they reach 2 inches high. Sorrel will not need a lot of supplemental care, but the bed does need to be kept weeded and the plants should receive at least 1 inch of water per week.
How to Grow Sorrel
Garden sorrel (Rumex acetosa) and French sorrel are the two cultivated varieties of the herb. Garden sorrel needs damp soils and temperate conditions. French sorrel performs best when it is grown in dry, open areas with inhospitable soils. The plants have very deep and persistent tap roots and grow well with little attention. Planting sorrel from seed or dividing the roots are the two most common ways to propagate the herb. Sorrel will usually bolt when temperatures begin to soar, usually in June or July. When this happens, you can allow the flower to bloom and enjoy it, but this slows the production of leaves. If you want to encourage larger and more leaf production, cut the flower stalk off and the plant will give you a few more harvests. You can even cut the plant to the ground and it will produce a full new crop of foliage.
Harvesting Sorrel Herb
Sorrel can be used from late spring until fall, with management. Harvest only what you need from the plant. It is much like lettuce and greens, where you can cut the outer leaves and the plant will continue to produce foliage. You can begin to harvest when the plants are 4 to 6 inches tall. The smallest leaves are best in salads and add an acidic tang. The larger leaves are more mellow. The herb is a traditional accompaniment to eggs and melts into creamy soups and sauces.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Senna (Senna hebecarpa syn. Cassia hebecarpa) is a perennial herb that grows naturally throughout eastern North America. It’s been popular as a natural laxative for centuries and is still commonly used today. Even beyond senna herbal use, it’s a hardy, beautiful plant with bright yellow flowers that attract bees and other pollinators. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow senna.
About Wild Senna Plants
What is senna? Also called wild senna, Indian senna, and American senna, this plant is a perennial that’s hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7. It grows throughout the northeastern U.S. and southeastern Canada but it is considered endangered or threatened in many parts of this habitat. Senna herbal use is very common in traditional medicine. The plant is an effective natural laxative, and the leaves can easily be brewed into a tea with proven effects fighting constipation. Steeping the leaves for 10 minutes in boiling water should make for a tea that will produce results in about 12 hours – it’s best to drink the tea before bed. Because the plant has such strong laxative properties, it has the added bonus of being mostly left alone by animals.
Senna Herb Growing
Wild senna plants grow naturally in moist soil. While it will tolerate moist and very poorly draining soil, many gardeners actually choose to grow senna in drier soil and sunny spots. This keeps the plant’s growth limited to about 3 feet in height (as opposed to 5 feet in wetter soil), making for a more shrub-like, less floppy appearance. Senna herb growing is best started in the fall. Scarified seeds can be planted at a depth of 3 millimeters (1/8 inch) in either autumn or early spring at 2 to 3 feet apart. The plant will spread by underground rhizomes, so keep an eye on it to ensure it doesn’t get out of control. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
About Wild Senna Plants
What is senna? Also called wild senna, Indian senna, and American senna, this plant is a perennial that’s hardy in USDA zones 4 through 7. It grows throughout the northeastern U.S. and southeastern Canada but it is considered endangered or threatened in many parts of this habitat. Senna herbal use is very common in traditional medicine. The plant is an effective natural laxative, and the leaves can easily be brewed into a tea with proven effects fighting constipation. Steeping the leaves for 10 minutes in boiling water should make for a tea that will produce results in about 12 hours – it’s best to drink the tea before bed. Because the plant has such strong laxative properties, it has the added bonus of being mostly left alone by animals.
Senna Herb Growing
Wild senna plants grow naturally in moist soil. While it will tolerate moist and very poorly draining soil, many gardeners actually choose to grow senna in drier soil and sunny spots. This keeps the plant’s growth limited to about 3 feet in height (as opposed to 5 feet in wetter soil), making for a more shrub-like, less floppy appearance. Senna herb growing is best started in the fall. Scarified seeds can be planted at a depth of 3 millimeters (1/8 inch) in either autumn or early spring at 2 to 3 feet apart. The plant will spread by underground rhizomes, so keep an eye on it to ensure it doesn’t get out of control. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Summer savory (Satureja hortensis) may not be as well known as some of its herb counterparts, but it’s a serious asset to any herb garden. Keep reading to learn more about growing summer savory herbs, including summer savory plant care.
Summer Savory Uses in the Garden
What is summer savory? It’s the annual equivalent of its close perennial cousin winter savory. While summer savory lasts for only one growing season, it’s thought to have the most superior flavor. It’s a popular ingredient in meat recipes, as well as oil, butter and vinegar infusions. Its flavor shines the most in bean dishes, however, earning it the name “the bean herb.” Summer savory plants grow in a mound-like formation and tend to reach a foot in height. The plant has many thin, branching stems with a purple cast that are covered in fine hairs. The inch long leaves are much longer than they are wide and have a gray green color to them.
How to Grow Summer Savory Plants
Growing summer savory herbs is very easy. The plant likes rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun. It also grows quickly and easily enough that it’s not at all a hassle to start a new crop each spring. Summer savory plants can be sown as seed directly into the ground after all danger of frost has passed. The seeds can also be started indoors about 4 weeks before the last frost, then transplanted out in warmer weather. It can even be grown indoors during the winter.
Little summer savory plant care is necessary, other than watering. Harvest your summer savory by cutting off the tops when buds are just beginning to form. In order to have summer savory all summer long, sow new seeds once per week. This will allow you to have a constant supply of plants that are ready to harvest. Savory herb plants, both summer and winter types, can provide your garden (and food dishes) with that extra pizazz.
Summer Savory Uses in the Garden
What is summer savory? It’s the annual equivalent of its close perennial cousin winter savory. While summer savory lasts for only one growing season, it’s thought to have the most superior flavor. It’s a popular ingredient in meat recipes, as well as oil, butter and vinegar infusions. Its flavor shines the most in bean dishes, however, earning it the name “the bean herb.” Summer savory plants grow in a mound-like formation and tend to reach a foot in height. The plant has many thin, branching stems with a purple cast that are covered in fine hairs. The inch long leaves are much longer than they are wide and have a gray green color to them.
How to Grow Summer Savory Plants
Growing summer savory herbs is very easy. The plant likes rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun. It also grows quickly and easily enough that it’s not at all a hassle to start a new crop each spring. Summer savory plants can be sown as seed directly into the ground after all danger of frost has passed. The seeds can also be started indoors about 4 weeks before the last frost, then transplanted out in warmer weather. It can even be grown indoors during the winter.
Little summer savory plant care is necessary, other than watering. Harvest your summer savory by cutting off the tops when buds are just beginning to form. In order to have summer savory all summer long, sow new seeds once per week. This will allow you to have a constant supply of plants that are ready to harvest. Savory herb plants, both summer and winter types, can provide your garden (and food dishes) with that extra pizazz.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A native of southern Europe and Asia, the saffron crocus is unique among the 75 other crocus species. Its formal name of Crocus sativus is derived from the Latin meaning “cultivated.” Indeed, it has a long history of cultivation dating back to its use by Egyptian physicians in 1600 BC for medicinal purposes. Let’s learn more about saffron crocus harvesting and its uses today.
Saffron Harvest Info
Today, the harvesting of saffron crocus is most often done for its resultant spice of the same name used in cooking, specifically in Spanish Paellas or Arroz con Pollo. One of the most expensive food products in the world, saffron’s outrageous cost is due to the labor intensive process of obtaining the stigma, of which there are only three per flower. Saffron harvest info lists the price of saffron at anywhere from $500 to $5,000 per pound depending upon the grade and quality.
When to Pick Saffron
Saffron crocus blooms in the fall over the course of three weeks, when the saffron crocus harvesting commences. When it’s time to pick saffron, harvesting saffron growers may work up to 19-hour days to carefully reap the blooms and then extract the few stigmas, which are then dried over heat and packaged for sale to international markets. Here’s the mind boggler; it takes 75,000 flowers yielding 225,000 stigmas to create a single pound of saffron!
How to Harvest Saffron
Saffron is grown in Spain, Portugal, France and India, producing fragrant lilac-colored flowers about 2 inches long. Despite its pleasant aroma and lovely bloom, the part of the plant that is most desirous is the three burnt-orange female organs, called stigmas, which become the resulting spice. So the question is, how to harvest saffron stigmas? Harvesting saffron stigmas is not for the faint of heart and clearly the motivating factor is the extravagant amount of money to be made. Literally, the three tiny and fragile stigmas are plucked from the flower by hand. That’s 225,000 stigmas per pound, by hand, with tweezers.
How to Grow Saffron Crocus
Areas ideal for cultivation of saffron crocus average a low 15-18 inches of annual rainfall. If you live in an area of significant precipitation, heavy rains are likely to damage the delicate flowers. However, beyond that saffron crocus are relatively easy to grow and multiply fairly rapidly, it would take about 150 to 200 bulbs to keep the average family supplied with enough saffron. Plant the saffron bulbs about 2 inches deep just as you would any crocus. Hardy through winter temps of down to -15 F. (-26 C.) but sensitive to soggy soil, water the saffron crocus sparingly, every two weeks, to prevent rotting, then await the latter part of September and an entire winter of Spanish Paella dishes. The plants should also be dug up and separated every three to four years.
Saffron Harvest Info
Today, the harvesting of saffron crocus is most often done for its resultant spice of the same name used in cooking, specifically in Spanish Paellas or Arroz con Pollo. One of the most expensive food products in the world, saffron’s outrageous cost is due to the labor intensive process of obtaining the stigma, of which there are only three per flower. Saffron harvest info lists the price of saffron at anywhere from $500 to $5,000 per pound depending upon the grade and quality.
When to Pick Saffron
Saffron crocus blooms in the fall over the course of three weeks, when the saffron crocus harvesting commences. When it’s time to pick saffron, harvesting saffron growers may work up to 19-hour days to carefully reap the blooms and then extract the few stigmas, which are then dried over heat and packaged for sale to international markets. Here’s the mind boggler; it takes 75,000 flowers yielding 225,000 stigmas to create a single pound of saffron!
How to Harvest Saffron
Saffron is grown in Spain, Portugal, France and India, producing fragrant lilac-colored flowers about 2 inches long. Despite its pleasant aroma and lovely bloom, the part of the plant that is most desirous is the three burnt-orange female organs, called stigmas, which become the resulting spice. So the question is, how to harvest saffron stigmas? Harvesting saffron stigmas is not for the faint of heart and clearly the motivating factor is the extravagant amount of money to be made. Literally, the three tiny and fragile stigmas are plucked from the flower by hand. That’s 225,000 stigmas per pound, by hand, with tweezers.
How to Grow Saffron Crocus
Areas ideal for cultivation of saffron crocus average a low 15-18 inches of annual rainfall. If you live in an area of significant precipitation, heavy rains are likely to damage the delicate flowers. However, beyond that saffron crocus are relatively easy to grow and multiply fairly rapidly, it would take about 150 to 200 bulbs to keep the average family supplied with enough saffron. Plant the saffron bulbs about 2 inches deep just as you would any crocus. Hardy through winter temps of down to -15 F. (-26 C.) but sensitive to soggy soil, water the saffron crocus sparingly, every two weeks, to prevent rotting, then await the latter part of September and an entire winter of Spanish Paella dishes. The plants should also be dug up and separated every three to four years.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a savory kitchen herb with a pungent flavor and attractive, needle-like leaves. Growing rosemary in pots is surprisingly simple and you can use the herb to add flavor and variety to a number of culinary dishes. Read on for tips about growing potted rosemary herbs.
Planting Rosemary in a Pot
Rosemary in a pot requires a good quality commercial potting mixture with ingredients such as fine pine bark or peat moss with vermiculite or perlite.
Growing rosemary in a pot with a diameter of at least 12 inches allows enough space for the roots to grow and expand. Be sure the container has a drainage hole because rosemary grown in containers will rot in soggy, poorly drained soil. The easiest way to grow rosemary in a pot is to start with a small bedding plant from a garden center or nursery, as rosemary is difficult to grow from seed. Plant the rosemary at the same depth it is planted in the container since planting too deeply may suffocate the plant. Rosemary is a Mediterranean plant that will thrive in a sunny location on your porch or patio; however, rosemary isn’t cold hardy. If you live in a climate with chilly winters, bring the plant indoors before the first frost in autumn. If you prefer not to grow rosemary indoors, you can grow the herb as an annual and start with a new rosemary plant every spring.
Rosemary Container Care
Caring for rosemary grown in containers is easy enough. Proper watering is the key to growing potted rosemary herbs, and the best way to determine if the plant needs water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, it’s time to water. Water the plant deeply, then let the pot drain freely and never let the pot stand in water. Use care, as overwatering is the most common reason rosemary plants don’t survive in containers. Rosemary in pots generally doesn’t require fertilizer, but you can use a dry fertilizer or a dilute solution of a water-soluble liquid fertilizer if the plant looks pale green or growth is stunted. Again, use care, as too much fertilizer may damage the plant. Too little fertilizer is always better than too much. Always water the rosemary immediately after applying fertilizer. Be sure to apply fertilizer to the potting soil – not the leaves.
Maintaining Potted Rosemary Herbs in Winter
Keeping a rosemary plant alive during the winter can be tricky. If you decide to bring your plant indoors during the winter, it will need a bright location. A sunny windowsill is a good place as long as the plant won’t be chilled by cold air. Be sure the plant has good air circulation and that it isn’t crowded with other plants. Be careful not to overwater.
Planting Rosemary in a Pot
Rosemary in a pot requires a good quality commercial potting mixture with ingredients such as fine pine bark or peat moss with vermiculite or perlite.
Growing rosemary in a pot with a diameter of at least 12 inches allows enough space for the roots to grow and expand. Be sure the container has a drainage hole because rosemary grown in containers will rot in soggy, poorly drained soil. The easiest way to grow rosemary in a pot is to start with a small bedding plant from a garden center or nursery, as rosemary is difficult to grow from seed. Plant the rosemary at the same depth it is planted in the container since planting too deeply may suffocate the plant. Rosemary is a Mediterranean plant that will thrive in a sunny location on your porch or patio; however, rosemary isn’t cold hardy. If you live in a climate with chilly winters, bring the plant indoors before the first frost in autumn. If you prefer not to grow rosemary indoors, you can grow the herb as an annual and start with a new rosemary plant every spring.
Rosemary Container Care
Caring for rosemary grown in containers is easy enough. Proper watering is the key to growing potted rosemary herbs, and the best way to determine if the plant needs water is to insert your finger into the soil. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, it’s time to water. Water the plant deeply, then let the pot drain freely and never let the pot stand in water. Use care, as overwatering is the most common reason rosemary plants don’t survive in containers. Rosemary in pots generally doesn’t require fertilizer, but you can use a dry fertilizer or a dilute solution of a water-soluble liquid fertilizer if the plant looks pale green or growth is stunted. Again, use care, as too much fertilizer may damage the plant. Too little fertilizer is always better than too much. Always water the rosemary immediately after applying fertilizer. Be sure to apply fertilizer to the potting soil – not the leaves.
Maintaining Potted Rosemary Herbs in Winter
Keeping a rosemary plant alive during the winter can be tricky. If you decide to bring your plant indoors during the winter, it will need a bright location. A sunny windowsill is a good place as long as the plant won’t be chilled by cold air. Be sure the plant has good air circulation and that it isn’t crowded with other plants. Be careful not to overwater.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
I love the aroma and flavor of rosemary and use it to flavor several dishes. When I think of rosemary, however, I just think…rosemary. I don’t think of different rosemary plant varieties. But there are a number of rosemary plant types to choose from. Read on to learn more about the varieties of rosemary.
Are There Different Types of Rosemary Plants?
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) has a wonderful and lengthy history. It has been nurtured by cooks and treasured by apothecaries for centuries. Interestingly, rosemary is said to live for exactly 33 years, Christ’s life span, and then die. Although native to the Mediterranean, rosemary has been cultivated for so long that natural hybrids have developed. So yes, there are different types of rosemary, but what types of rosemary are there?
Types of Rosemary to Grow
There are basically two types of rosemary, those that are upright shrubs and those that grow as ground covers. Beyond that things get a little more complex, especially since one variety may be sold under several different names. In cold climates, rosemary wouldn’t survive the freezing temperatures and is more often grown in a pot that is moved inside for the winter. However, some varieties are more cold hardy than other types. In warm regions, rosemary thrives outside and may grow into tall shrubs. For example, upright rosemary plant varieties run the gamut from 6- to 7-feet tall to smaller ones reaching around 2-3 feet in height.
Here are some common rosemary plant types:
‘Arp’ is a cold hardy rosemary that was named for the town of Arp’s newspaper editor, also by the name of Arp. It was discovered by a woman by the name of Madalene Hill. Later down the road, yet another cold hardy rosemary was named after her, the ‘Madelene Hill.’ ‘Joyce de Baggio’ also known as golden rain or golden rosemary, is indeed somewhat gold in color. Sometimes mistaken for a variegated plant, the leaf color actually changes with the seasons. Leaves are bright yellow in the spring and fall and become a dark green during the summer.
Blue Boy rosemary is a slow-growing herb that works well in containers or as a border plant. The tiny leaves are edible; you just need a lot of them. Creeping rosemary does exactly what it sounds like it does and makes a lovely scented ground cover. Pine scented rosemary has wispy or feathery looking leaves. One of the creeping types of rosemary to grow, pink rosemary has small leaves and pale pink flowers that bloom in late winter. It can become a bit out of hand if not pruned frequently, but luckily this rosemary suffers no ill effects from pruning. ‘Santa Barbara’ is another trailing rosemary that is a vigorous grower that can reach lengths of 3 feet or more. ‘Spice Islands’ rosemary is a very flavorful herb that grows as an erect, four foot shrub that blossoms with dark blue flowers in the late winter and early spring. Upright rosemary has wonderfully flavored leaves and dark blue flowers, while white rosemary, as its name suggests, blooms with a profusion of white flowers from mid-winter to late spring. It is also very aromatic and a bee magnet.
Are There Different Types of Rosemary Plants?
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) has a wonderful and lengthy history. It has been nurtured by cooks and treasured by apothecaries for centuries. Interestingly, rosemary is said to live for exactly 33 years, Christ’s life span, and then die. Although native to the Mediterranean, rosemary has been cultivated for so long that natural hybrids have developed. So yes, there are different types of rosemary, but what types of rosemary are there?
Types of Rosemary to Grow
There are basically two types of rosemary, those that are upright shrubs and those that grow as ground covers. Beyond that things get a little more complex, especially since one variety may be sold under several different names. In cold climates, rosemary wouldn’t survive the freezing temperatures and is more often grown in a pot that is moved inside for the winter. However, some varieties are more cold hardy than other types. In warm regions, rosemary thrives outside and may grow into tall shrubs. For example, upright rosemary plant varieties run the gamut from 6- to 7-feet tall to smaller ones reaching around 2-3 feet in height.
Here are some common rosemary plant types:
‘Arp’ is a cold hardy rosemary that was named for the town of Arp’s newspaper editor, also by the name of Arp. It was discovered by a woman by the name of Madalene Hill. Later down the road, yet another cold hardy rosemary was named after her, the ‘Madelene Hill.’ ‘Joyce de Baggio’ also known as golden rain or golden rosemary, is indeed somewhat gold in color. Sometimes mistaken for a variegated plant, the leaf color actually changes with the seasons. Leaves are bright yellow in the spring and fall and become a dark green during the summer.
Blue Boy rosemary is a slow-growing herb that works well in containers or as a border plant. The tiny leaves are edible; you just need a lot of them. Creeping rosemary does exactly what it sounds like it does and makes a lovely scented ground cover. Pine scented rosemary has wispy or feathery looking leaves. One of the creeping types of rosemary to grow, pink rosemary has small leaves and pale pink flowers that bloom in late winter. It can become a bit out of hand if not pruned frequently, but luckily this rosemary suffers no ill effects from pruning. ‘Santa Barbara’ is another trailing rosemary that is a vigorous grower that can reach lengths of 3 feet or more. ‘Spice Islands’ rosemary is a very flavorful herb that grows as an erect, four foot shrub that blossoms with dark blue flowers in the late winter and early spring. Upright rosemary has wonderfully flavored leaves and dark blue flowers, while white rosemary, as its name suggests, blooms with a profusion of white flowers from mid-winter to late spring. It is also very aromatic and a bee magnet.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender is a fantastic plant to have around – it looks good, it smells amazing, and it can be harvested for use in cooking and making sachets. It’s also extremely easy to care for, as long as you know how to do it. Keep reading to learn more about when and how to fertilize lavender plants.
Fertilizing Lavender Plants
Lavender is a tricky plant to grow, though its needs are actually very simple. But time and again gardeners find theirs dying on them. Why is this? More often than not, the plants have actually been cared for to death. Lavender needs very little water to survive, and it’s frequently drowned by well-intentioned gardeners who think they’re doing it a favor. And the very same thing goes for fertilizer.
How and When to Feed Lavender
Lavender plants really prefer nutrient poor soil. Fertilizing lavender too heavily may cause it to grow excess foliage and never flower (particular if the fertilizer for lavender is rich in nitrogen) or it may flat out kill it. This isn’t to say that lavender plant feeding is completely out of the question – it’s all just a matter of doing it right. The best (and only) time for fertilizing lavender is in the springtime at the start of the growing season. The easiest and best thing to do is to put down an inch of good compost around the plant. This should provide plenty of nutrients for the year to come.
Alternatively, you can feed your lavender with a small amount of slow release fertilizer. Once you’ve done this, leave it alone. Fertilizing lavender too much can hurt it. Don’t fertilize in the fall, either. This will make the plant produce tender new growth that will only get damaged or killed in the winter. With lavender plant feeding, a little really does go a long way.
Fertilizing Lavender Plants
Lavender is a tricky plant to grow, though its needs are actually very simple. But time and again gardeners find theirs dying on them. Why is this? More often than not, the plants have actually been cared for to death. Lavender needs very little water to survive, and it’s frequently drowned by well-intentioned gardeners who think they’re doing it a favor. And the very same thing goes for fertilizer.
How and When to Feed Lavender
Lavender plants really prefer nutrient poor soil. Fertilizing lavender too heavily may cause it to grow excess foliage and never flower (particular if the fertilizer for lavender is rich in nitrogen) or it may flat out kill it. This isn’t to say that lavender plant feeding is completely out of the question – it’s all just a matter of doing it right. The best (and only) time for fertilizing lavender is in the springtime at the start of the growing season. The easiest and best thing to do is to put down an inch of good compost around the plant. This should provide plenty of nutrients for the year to come.
Alternatively, you can feed your lavender with a small amount of slow release fertilizer. Once you’ve done this, leave it alone. Fertilizing lavender too much can hurt it. Don’t fertilize in the fall, either. This will make the plant produce tender new growth that will only get damaged or killed in the winter. With lavender plant feeding, a little really does go a long way.
0
0
