文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
General comments about pest control
Many common pests can be controlled by use of systemic insecticides, contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and, in some cases, natural predators. Systemic insecticides are very effective as they are absorbed by the plant, making its sap poisonous to the pests. However, they may be toxic to people and absorbed through the skin in the same way.
Dimethoate was an effective ingredient of systemic insecticides, but unfortunately it has generally been withdrawn from the non-professional market in EC countries.
The best systemic insecticides currently available are based on Imidacloprid. In the UK this is marketed as "Provado Vine Weevil Killer," but is effective against a wide range of insects including mealy bugs. In the USA Bayer market a formulation containing Imidacloprid. Plants should be watered with this insecticide during the growing season. The substance is taken up into the plant which then becomes toxic to insects. A single treatment lasts for several months. Imidacloprid is not very effective against red spider. It is relatively low in toxicicity to most animals other than insects and application without spraying minimises contact. Neonicotinoid (similar to Nicotine) insecticides are getting a bad press lately, as harmful to beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies, but it's unlikely that bees would be harmed by indoor use of Imidacloprid on a collection of succulent plants.
Contact insecticides such as Malathion can also be effective, but only at the time of application and all parts of the plant must be covered. Unfortunately, Malathion and its derivastives are toxic to Crassulaceae and some other succulents.
A range of insecticidal soaps are also available, and some people swear by spraying with diluted washing-up liquid (a few drops in a litre), which at least is fairly harmless.
It is worth noting that repeated use of insecticides can select for resistant insects among any survivors (evolution in action !). It is not yet clear whether resistance will develop to Imidacloprid or to the new insecticidal soaps. This can be avoided by ensuring that treatments are as thorough as possible, so there are no survivors and by using more than one insecticide in rotation.
Biological controls are available for some pests but are incompatible with insecticides. Use one or the other. It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection. I'd question the efficacy of biological controls in a small glasshouse, but it may be worth experimenting with these if you dislike using insecticides.
Many common pests can be controlled by use of systemic insecticides, contact insecticides, insecticidal soaps and, in some cases, natural predators. Systemic insecticides are very effective as they are absorbed by the plant, making its sap poisonous to the pests. However, they may be toxic to people and absorbed through the skin in the same way.
Dimethoate was an effective ingredient of systemic insecticides, but unfortunately it has generally been withdrawn from the non-professional market in EC countries.
The best systemic insecticides currently available are based on Imidacloprid. In the UK this is marketed as "Provado Vine Weevil Killer," but is effective against a wide range of insects including mealy bugs. In the USA Bayer market a formulation containing Imidacloprid. Plants should be watered with this insecticide during the growing season. The substance is taken up into the plant which then becomes toxic to insects. A single treatment lasts for several months. Imidacloprid is not very effective against red spider. It is relatively low in toxicicity to most animals other than insects and application without spraying minimises contact. Neonicotinoid (similar to Nicotine) insecticides are getting a bad press lately, as harmful to beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies, but it's unlikely that bees would be harmed by indoor use of Imidacloprid on a collection of succulent plants.
Contact insecticides such as Malathion can also be effective, but only at the time of application and all parts of the plant must be covered. Unfortunately, Malathion and its derivastives are toxic to Crassulaceae and some other succulents.
A range of insecticidal soaps are also available, and some people swear by spraying with diluted washing-up liquid (a few drops in a litre), which at least is fairly harmless.
It is worth noting that repeated use of insecticides can select for resistant insects among any survivors (evolution in action !). It is not yet clear whether resistance will develop to Imidacloprid or to the new insecticidal soaps. This can be avoided by ensuring that treatments are as thorough as possible, so there are no survivors and by using more than one insecticide in rotation.
Biological controls are available for some pests but are incompatible with insecticides. Use one or the other. It is difficult to obtain a predator/prey balance that allows long-term protection in a small collection. I'd question the efficacy of biological controls in a small glasshouse, but it may be worth experimenting with these if you dislike using insecticides.
1
1
Cuzin：So rather than spraying with Imidacloprid, should I water my plants with it??
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
2
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
First let’s clarify some terminology. All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. While both cacti and succulents have thick fleshy parts which have the ability to store moisture for use when times are tough, the similarity ends there.
A true cactus has an areole. It looks like a patch of cotton from which spines, flowers, and roots grow. While some succulents may have spines, they do not have areoles.
Although some succulents are winter hardy, many are native to warmer worlds and are quite content as easy-care houseplants. All they need is a bright, sunny location, proper temperature, and occasional watering. Succulents are happy next to southern exposure windows or near fluorescent lights.
The growth cycles of cacti and succulents are usually in response to water and temperature. Most go dormant during the fall and winter when temperatures are cooler and moisture and light levels are low. They do their best growth in summer.
Even though cacti and succulents can tolerate dry conditions for extended periods, they appreciate some water especially during their active growth period. Soil should be watered thoroughly but allowed to dry for a few days. Be sure to use a well-drained cactus soil mix. In winter keep dormant plants on the dry side for longer periods. Overwatering dormant succulents can lead to rotting of the plant’s stems or roots.
Dormant plants prefer temperatures between 45 and 55 degrees F. Flower buds are more likely to form at cooler temperatures. Areas next to windows often provide the perfect growing environment during the winter and can satisfy the cool temperature requirement. Normal room temperatures will not harm the plant but cold helps to promote flowers.
Most cacti and succulents have their active growth cycle during the spring and summer. Plants with this growth cycle include the Echinocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, and Parodia.
During the summer, cacti and succulents like to be outdoors. Locate them where they get light shade and keep them watered.
Unusual is the operative word when describing cacti and succulents. One look at the variety of sizes, textures, and colors will make a fanatic succulent collector out of many gardeners. A few succulents are good starter plants for their ease of maintenance.
The Mammillarias or Pin Cushion cacti are commonly sold. Their silky hairs give rise to names such as Bird Nest Cactus, Old Lady Cactus, and Feather Cactus. They flower readily with a halo of white to pink flowers.
One of my favorites for their architectural look is the Aeoniums. These succulents grow in flat pinwheels in colors of green, bronze, or silver.
One quick look at Lithops reveals the source of their other name – Living Stones. In contrast to other succulents their dry dormant period is summer. With the proper care daisy-like flowers may appear in November or December through “cracks in the stones”.
If you love weird and wonderful, cacti and succulents are your perfect pet rocks.
A true cactus has an areole. It looks like a patch of cotton from which spines, flowers, and roots grow. While some succulents may have spines, they do not have areoles.
Although some succulents are winter hardy, many are native to warmer worlds and are quite content as easy-care houseplants. All they need is a bright, sunny location, proper temperature, and occasional watering. Succulents are happy next to southern exposure windows or near fluorescent lights.
The growth cycles of cacti and succulents are usually in response to water and temperature. Most go dormant during the fall and winter when temperatures are cooler and moisture and light levels are low. They do their best growth in summer.
Even though cacti and succulents can tolerate dry conditions for extended periods, they appreciate some water especially during their active growth period. Soil should be watered thoroughly but allowed to dry for a few days. Be sure to use a well-drained cactus soil mix. In winter keep dormant plants on the dry side for longer periods. Overwatering dormant succulents can lead to rotting of the plant’s stems or roots.
Dormant plants prefer temperatures between 45 and 55 degrees F. Flower buds are more likely to form at cooler temperatures. Areas next to windows often provide the perfect growing environment during the winter and can satisfy the cool temperature requirement. Normal room temperatures will not harm the plant but cold helps to promote flowers.
Most cacti and succulents have their active growth cycle during the spring and summer. Plants with this growth cycle include the Echinocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, and Parodia.
During the summer, cacti and succulents like to be outdoors. Locate them where they get light shade and keep them watered.
Unusual is the operative word when describing cacti and succulents. One look at the variety of sizes, textures, and colors will make a fanatic succulent collector out of many gardeners. A few succulents are good starter plants for their ease of maintenance.
The Mammillarias or Pin Cushion cacti are commonly sold. Their silky hairs give rise to names such as Bird Nest Cactus, Old Lady Cactus, and Feather Cactus. They flower readily with a halo of white to pink flowers.
One of my favorites for their architectural look is the Aeoniums. These succulents grow in flat pinwheels in colors of green, bronze, or silver.
One quick look at Lithops reveals the source of their other name – Living Stones. In contrast to other succulents their dry dormant period is summer. With the proper care daisy-like flowers may appear in November or December through “cracks in the stones”.
If you love weird and wonderful, cacti and succulents are your perfect pet rocks.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Soil: Unlike most other cacti Pereskiopsis will put up with a lot of organic material in their soil. Although you should not use a rain forest mix you can and should have a soil mix that is a little more than 75% organic soil. We do this because unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis are heavy feeders. They grow far more quickly thanks to their leaves, and their roots are far more reaching. The other 25% should consist of an even mix of perlite, pumice, rock and sand. All of these four provide excellent drainage oxygen flow in the soil. Root rot is common in Pereskiopsis but is easily avoided by adding these.
Light: As with just about every cactus a lack of light will really harm them if you expect growth and continue to water them. You will wait for a long time if you do not have an artificial light source and humidity. Pereskiopsis live in very tropical, wet and humid regions of Central and South America. This is easy to recreate with your grow light and indoor greenhouse set up. But you must be careful to allow air circulation. This is one of the number one killers of cactus and Pereskiopsis in general behind over watering. If you have an indoor greenhouse you can easily do this by opening up the tent for several hours a day and choosing one day a week in which it is open all day. You should have two angles for air circulation to navigate. No artificial fans are need but can be helpful.
Lighting requirements for Pereskiopsis plants are about 10-14 hours of light a day. Find a balance that fits your lifestyle and that of the plants. If they react negatively toward your specifications, make the appropriate changes.
If you are just growing them during the summer, most northern states and even portions of Canada can maintain Pereskiopsis outside. The months of June, July and August will be perfect for Pereskiopsis in clay pots. Do not bother watering them and just let the rain take care of them. If you are in the western states which are much drier, just water them when the soil becomes dry. Believe it or not these cacti will be tolerant of regular potting soil in a sunny and warm location with good air circulation.
Water: Unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis have the unique property of wanting more water. Don’t make the common mistake though, most cacti would prefer if you watered them more. However the soil, heat and light that you have are probably not enough to accommodate them. Even in their natural habitat, cacti would prefer more water than they receive.
Grower’s Tips
Growing Pereskiopsis is not difficult at all. In fact the plant is quite tolerant of many mistakes you might throw at it, but there are some considerations you must take before planting your new grafting stock. Depending on the number you have and how you will want to display them will dictate how they are planted. Another consideration is whether you received them as cuttings or as fully rooted plants. A tray that does not separate the different plants is perfectly acceptable. However to make grafting easier as well as future cuts, it’s best to use a cell that separates the plants, one per cell. This will also make it easy to separate them when you are ready because the roots are very aggressive and will branch out.
Light: As with just about every cactus a lack of light will really harm them if you expect growth and continue to water them. You will wait for a long time if you do not have an artificial light source and humidity. Pereskiopsis live in very tropical, wet and humid regions of Central and South America. This is easy to recreate with your grow light and indoor greenhouse set up. But you must be careful to allow air circulation. This is one of the number one killers of cactus and Pereskiopsis in general behind over watering. If you have an indoor greenhouse you can easily do this by opening up the tent for several hours a day and choosing one day a week in which it is open all day. You should have two angles for air circulation to navigate. No artificial fans are need but can be helpful.
Lighting requirements for Pereskiopsis plants are about 10-14 hours of light a day. Find a balance that fits your lifestyle and that of the plants. If they react negatively toward your specifications, make the appropriate changes.
If you are just growing them during the summer, most northern states and even portions of Canada can maintain Pereskiopsis outside. The months of June, July and August will be perfect for Pereskiopsis in clay pots. Do not bother watering them and just let the rain take care of them. If you are in the western states which are much drier, just water them when the soil becomes dry. Believe it or not these cacti will be tolerant of regular potting soil in a sunny and warm location with good air circulation.
Water: Unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis have the unique property of wanting more water. Don’t make the common mistake though, most cacti would prefer if you watered them more. However the soil, heat and light that you have are probably not enough to accommodate them. Even in their natural habitat, cacti would prefer more water than they receive.
Grower’s Tips
Growing Pereskiopsis is not difficult at all. In fact the plant is quite tolerant of many mistakes you might throw at it, but there are some considerations you must take before planting your new grafting stock. Depending on the number you have and how you will want to display them will dictate how they are planted. Another consideration is whether you received them as cuttings or as fully rooted plants. A tray that does not separate the different plants is perfectly acceptable. However to make grafting easier as well as future cuts, it’s best to use a cell that separates the plants, one per cell. This will also make it easy to separate them when you are ready because the roots are very aggressive and will branch out.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
2
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Mottled, yellowing leaves with brown speckles are signs that these tiny pests have been feeding on plant leaf cells. Sometimes you can also see the fine silk webbing spun by adult spider mites, which they use to travel from one plant to another.
Plants affected
Spider mites feed on at least 200 different plants, including many common flowers, fruits and vegetables.
About Red spider mite
Spider mites are arachnids and are related to all spider species.
These tiny, highly destructive pests are common in greenhouses and on house plants and can also be found on outdoor plants during the warmer summer months.
Spider mites can feed on at least 200 different plants, including many common flowers, fruits and vegetables.
They feed on the content of plant leaf cells by piercing them with their mouthparts. This results in a fine brown speckling effect on leaves where the cells have died.
Adult mites also spin a fine silk webbing over leaf surfaces. With heavy infestations this can cover most of the plant.
When active, the spider mites are light green with two dark spots on their back, but during their inactive periods they become dark orange or red.
Spider mites emerge from hibernation during March and April and begin laying their minute, spherical eggs on suitable host plants.
Adult females can lay up to a hundred eggs during their lifetime.
Juveniles will hatch a few days later and begin feeding. They start life with six legs, but develop eight as they mature.
The webbing provides a protective shield for the spider mite colony against predators and adverse environmental conditions. It also provides a means of spreading the colony to other areas of the plant.
As autumn approaches, females stop laying eggs and begin to seek out places away from the plant to overwinter. They'll usually choose places, such as cracks in walls, fences and old plant material.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Red spider mite
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants every week and deal with the first signs of mite infestation immediately.
Where possible, remove infested leaves, buds and stems because this will initially reduce numbers.
Spider mites prefer dry environments, so spraying the infested areas of a plant with water and damping the greenhouse floor areas will raise the humidity and hopefully slow the infestation rate.
The predatory mite Phytosieulus persimilis feeds on Red spider mite, and reproduces much faster than its prey at temperatures above 18C (64F). This can be released on to infected areas and should quickly control infestations.
Prevention
Mites overwinter in cracks and crevices in greenhouses, as well as in any plant material left behind. So it's essential to clear away all debris once the growing season is over and thoroughly disinfect the greenhouse to keep pest numbers to a minimum.
Keep the greenhouse atmosphere quite humid and damp by wetting the floor regularly. Mites hate damp conditions and this will help to discourage them from making a home here.
Plants affected
Spider mites feed on at least 200 different plants, including many common flowers, fruits and vegetables.
About Red spider mite
Spider mites are arachnids and are related to all spider species.
These tiny, highly destructive pests are common in greenhouses and on house plants and can also be found on outdoor plants during the warmer summer months.
Spider mites can feed on at least 200 different plants, including many common flowers, fruits and vegetables.
They feed on the content of plant leaf cells by piercing them with their mouthparts. This results in a fine brown speckling effect on leaves where the cells have died.
Adult mites also spin a fine silk webbing over leaf surfaces. With heavy infestations this can cover most of the plant.
When active, the spider mites are light green with two dark spots on their back, but during their inactive periods they become dark orange or red.
Spider mites emerge from hibernation during March and April and begin laying their minute, spherical eggs on suitable host plants.
Adult females can lay up to a hundred eggs during their lifetime.
Juveniles will hatch a few days later and begin feeding. They start life with six legs, but develop eight as they mature.
The webbing provides a protective shield for the spider mite colony against predators and adverse environmental conditions. It also provides a means of spreading the colony to other areas of the plant.
As autumn approaches, females stop laying eggs and begin to seek out places away from the plant to overwinter. They'll usually choose places, such as cracks in walls, fences and old plant material.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Red spider mite
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants every week and deal with the first signs of mite infestation immediately.
Where possible, remove infested leaves, buds and stems because this will initially reduce numbers.
Spider mites prefer dry environments, so spraying the infested areas of a plant with water and damping the greenhouse floor areas will raise the humidity and hopefully slow the infestation rate.
The predatory mite Phytosieulus persimilis feeds on Red spider mite, and reproduces much faster than its prey at temperatures above 18C (64F). This can be released on to infected areas and should quickly control infestations.
Prevention
Mites overwinter in cracks and crevices in greenhouses, as well as in any plant material left behind. So it's essential to clear away all debris once the growing season is over and thoroughly disinfect the greenhouse to keep pest numbers to a minimum.
Keep the greenhouse atmosphere quite humid and damp by wetting the floor regularly. Mites hate damp conditions and this will help to discourage them from making a home here.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
You’ve seen mimosa trees, common and familiar landscape trees especially in the South. They have a tropical look, with slender leaves that make you think of ferns, and frothy pink blossoms in early summer. If your garden could use a touch of the tropics or a little Asian flair, consider growing chocolate mimosa (Albizia julibrissin ‘Summer Chocolate’). So what is a chocolate mimosa? This mimosa variety has an umbrella-shaped canopy with leaves that change from green to dark red, and by late summer they are reddish-bronze or chocolaty brown.
Growing Chocolate Mimosa
Not only is the deep chocolate hue of the foliage unusual and elegant, but it also makes care of chocolate mimosa trees easier. The darker foliage makes the tree both accepting of heat and drought tolerant, according to chocolate mimosa information. Deer dislike the odor of the leaves, so you don’t have to worry about these animals munching up your tree.
You’ll appreciate the unusual leaf color but you’ll also love the 1-to-2 inch showy flowers, which is the showiest feature of chocolate mimosas that bloom in late summer. The sweet fragrance is lovely, and the flowers attract bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. In time, the pink powder puff flowers develop into long seed pods that look like beans and will decorate the tree all winter.
These lovely trees are perfect for your garden, but you may think twice before planting chocolate mimosa trees since their other mimosa counterparts have escaped cultivation in many areas, to the point of becoming invasive. Mimosas spread from seeds and form dense stands that shade and out compete valuable native plants. They can do so much damage to wild areas that the Plant Conservation Alliance has added them to their “Least Wanted” list. That being said, research suggests that growing a chocolate mimosa doesn’t carry the same risks as growing the species tree does. That’s because the ‘Summer Chocolate’ isn’t invasive. It produces far fewer seeds. Nonetheless, you should still contact your cooperative extension agent to find out more about the status of summer chocolate mimosa in your area, just to be safe.
Care of Chocolate Mimosa
The care of chocolate mimosa is easy. The plants are rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. You’ll be amazed at how quickly these trees grow. A chocolate mimosa tree in landscapes should get to 20 feet tall and 20 feet wide. This is about half the size of the green species tree, though. Give the tree a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. A chocolate mimosa tree in landscapes also tolerates alkaline soil and salty soil. The trees need water until their roots are established, but then become extremely drought tolerant. Apply the water slowly, allowing the moisture to sink deep into the soil to encourage a deep root system. Once established, the tree only needs occasional watering in the absence of rain.
Fertilize annually in spring with a complete and balanced fertilizer. Chocolate mimosa trees almost never need pruning. You can, however, make removal of the seed pods a part of your chocolate mimosa tree care routine, if desired. The seed pods are about 6 inches long and straw-colored, resembling beans, and each pod contains several bean-like seeds. These mature in late summer or early fall.
Growing Chocolate Mimosa
Not only is the deep chocolate hue of the foliage unusual and elegant, but it also makes care of chocolate mimosa trees easier. The darker foliage makes the tree both accepting of heat and drought tolerant, according to chocolate mimosa information. Deer dislike the odor of the leaves, so you don’t have to worry about these animals munching up your tree.
You’ll appreciate the unusual leaf color but you’ll also love the 1-to-2 inch showy flowers, which is the showiest feature of chocolate mimosas that bloom in late summer. The sweet fragrance is lovely, and the flowers attract bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. In time, the pink powder puff flowers develop into long seed pods that look like beans and will decorate the tree all winter.
These lovely trees are perfect for your garden, but you may think twice before planting chocolate mimosa trees since their other mimosa counterparts have escaped cultivation in many areas, to the point of becoming invasive. Mimosas spread from seeds and form dense stands that shade and out compete valuable native plants. They can do so much damage to wild areas that the Plant Conservation Alliance has added them to their “Least Wanted” list. That being said, research suggests that growing a chocolate mimosa doesn’t carry the same risks as growing the species tree does. That’s because the ‘Summer Chocolate’ isn’t invasive. It produces far fewer seeds. Nonetheless, you should still contact your cooperative extension agent to find out more about the status of summer chocolate mimosa in your area, just to be safe.
Care of Chocolate Mimosa
The care of chocolate mimosa is easy. The plants are rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. You’ll be amazed at how quickly these trees grow. A chocolate mimosa tree in landscapes should get to 20 feet tall and 20 feet wide. This is about half the size of the green species tree, though. Give the tree a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. A chocolate mimosa tree in landscapes also tolerates alkaline soil and salty soil. The trees need water until their roots are established, but then become extremely drought tolerant. Apply the water slowly, allowing the moisture to sink deep into the soil to encourage a deep root system. Once established, the tree only needs occasional watering in the absence of rain.
Fertilize annually in spring with a complete and balanced fertilizer. Chocolate mimosa trees almost never need pruning. You can, however, make removal of the seed pods a part of your chocolate mimosa tree care routine, if desired. The seed pods are about 6 inches long and straw-colored, resembling beans, and each pod contains several bean-like seeds. These mature in late summer or early fall.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Common in older landscapes because of their quick growth, even the slightest breeze can make the silver undersides of silver maple trees look like the whole tree is shimmering. Because of its wide use as a fast-growing tree, most of us have a silver maple or a few on our urban blocks. In addition to their use as fast-growing shade trees, silver maples were also widely planted in reforestation projects. Continue reading to learn more silver maple tree information.
Silver Maple Tree Information
Silver maples (Acer saccharinum) prefer to grow in moist, slightly acidic soil. They are moderately drought tolerant, but are more recognized for their ability to survive in standing water for long periods of time. Because of this water tolerance, silver maples were often planted along river banks or edges of other waterways for erosion control. They can tolerate high water levels in spring and receding water levels in midsummer.
In natural areas, their early spring blooms are important to bees and other pollinators. Their prolific seeds are eaten by grosbeaks, finches, wild turkeys, ducks, squirrels and chipmunks. Its leaves provide food for deer, rabbits, cecropia moth caterpillars and white tussock moth caterpillars.
Growing silver maple trees are prone to forming deep holes or cavities that provide homes for raccoons, opossums, squirrels, bats, owls and other birds. Near waterways, beavers often eat silver maple bark and use their limbs for building beaver dams and lodges.
How to Grow Silver Maple Trees
Hardy in zones 3-9, silver maple tree growth is about 2 feet or more per year. Their vase-shaped growth habit can top out at anywhere from 50 to 80 feet tall depending on location and can be 35 to 50 feet wide. While they were once widely used as quick growing street trees or shade trees for landscapes, silver maples are not so popular in recent years because their brittle limbs are prone to breakage from strong winds or heavy snow or ice. Silver maple’s large vigorous roots can also damage sidewalks and driveways, as well as sewer and drain pipes. The soft wood that is prone to forming holes or cavities can also be prone to fungus or grubs.
Another drawback to silver maples is that their prolific, winged seed pairs are highly viable and seedlings will quickly sprout up in any open soil without any special requirements, like stratification. This can make them a pest to agriculture fields and quite annoying to home gardeners. On the positive side, this makes silver maples very easy to propagate by seed. In recent years, red maples and silver maples have been bred together to create the hybrid Acer freemanii. These hybrids are fast growing like silver maples but more durable against strong winds and heavy snow or ice. They also have prettier fall colors, usually in reds and oranges, unlike the yellow fall color of silver maples.
If planting a silver maple tree is a project you’d like to undertake but without the downsides, then opt for one of these hybrid types instead. Varieties in the Acer freemanii include:
Autumn Blaze
Marmo
Armstrong
Celebration
Matador
Morgan
Scarlet Sentinel
Firefall
Silver Maple Tree Information
Silver maples (Acer saccharinum) prefer to grow in moist, slightly acidic soil. They are moderately drought tolerant, but are more recognized for their ability to survive in standing water for long periods of time. Because of this water tolerance, silver maples were often planted along river banks or edges of other waterways for erosion control. They can tolerate high water levels in spring and receding water levels in midsummer.
In natural areas, their early spring blooms are important to bees and other pollinators. Their prolific seeds are eaten by grosbeaks, finches, wild turkeys, ducks, squirrels and chipmunks. Its leaves provide food for deer, rabbits, cecropia moth caterpillars and white tussock moth caterpillars.
Growing silver maple trees are prone to forming deep holes or cavities that provide homes for raccoons, opossums, squirrels, bats, owls and other birds. Near waterways, beavers often eat silver maple bark and use their limbs for building beaver dams and lodges.
How to Grow Silver Maple Trees
Hardy in zones 3-9, silver maple tree growth is about 2 feet or more per year. Their vase-shaped growth habit can top out at anywhere from 50 to 80 feet tall depending on location and can be 35 to 50 feet wide. While they were once widely used as quick growing street trees or shade trees for landscapes, silver maples are not so popular in recent years because their brittle limbs are prone to breakage from strong winds or heavy snow or ice. Silver maple’s large vigorous roots can also damage sidewalks and driveways, as well as sewer and drain pipes. The soft wood that is prone to forming holes or cavities can also be prone to fungus or grubs.
Another drawback to silver maples is that their prolific, winged seed pairs are highly viable and seedlings will quickly sprout up in any open soil without any special requirements, like stratification. This can make them a pest to agriculture fields and quite annoying to home gardeners. On the positive side, this makes silver maples very easy to propagate by seed. In recent years, red maples and silver maples have been bred together to create the hybrid Acer freemanii. These hybrids are fast growing like silver maples but more durable against strong winds and heavy snow or ice. They also have prettier fall colors, usually in reds and oranges, unlike the yellow fall color of silver maples.
If planting a silver maple tree is a project you’d like to undertake but without the downsides, then opt for one of these hybrid types instead. Varieties in the Acer freemanii include:
Autumn Blaze
Marmo
Armstrong
Celebration
Matador
Morgan
Scarlet Sentinel
Firefall
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Clove trees (Syzygium aromaticum) produce the cloves you use to spice up your cooking. Can you grow a clove tree? According to clove tree information, it’s not hard to grow these trees if you can provide ideal growing conditions. If you are wondering what it takes to grow this tree or about clove tree uses, read on.
Clove Tree Information
The clove tree is native to Indonesia, but clove tree information suggests that it has naturalized in many warm countries. These include Mexico, Kenya and Sri Lanka. The plant has been cultivated since 200 B.C. to produce the cloves.
The most important of clove tree uses is, of course, the plant’s aromatic dried buds, or cloves. The name cloves comes from Latin “clavus,” meaning nail, as cloves often look like small nails. Clove trees are evergreens that grow to some 40 feet tall. Their bark is smooth and gray, and their long, 5-inch leaves look like bay leaves. Blossoms are tiny – about ½ inch long – and gather in clusters at branch tips. The entire plant is fragrant and aromatic.
Clove Tree Growing Conditions
Can you grow a clove tree? You can, but it’s hard for most gardeners to replicate ideal clove tree growing conditions. Clove tree information tells you that the tree is native to wet, tropical areas of the world. Therefore, the trees grow best in a hot and wet region. Ideal growing conditions include at least 50 to 70 inches of rainfall annually. The minimum temperature for clove trees is 59 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.). Most commercial clove producers locate their plantations within 10 degrees of the equator.
Clove Tree Care
If you happen to live in such an area, and near the ocean, you probably won’t have much trouble growing clove trees. Plant the seeds in well-drained, fertile loam, then follow good practices for their care. One part of clove tree care is to install shade plants to protect the young seedlings for the first few years. Banana plants work well to provide this temporary shade. Clove trees are not a short-term project. The trees regularly live a century and sometimes live for over 300 years. More pertinent to the average gardener, you’ll have to wait at least 20 years for the tree to produce a full crop.
Clove Tree Uses
Many Americans use cloves for cooking. They are popular spices for baked hams and pumpkin pie. But clove tree uses are much broader than this globally. In Indonesia, cloves are used to make popular clove aromatized cigarettes. Other clove tree uses are medicinal. Extracted clove oil is also used as an essential oil that is used medicinally. Some people also make tea from cloves that is considered to help with stomach upsets, chills and impotence.
Clove Tree Information
The clove tree is native to Indonesia, but clove tree information suggests that it has naturalized in many warm countries. These include Mexico, Kenya and Sri Lanka. The plant has been cultivated since 200 B.C. to produce the cloves.
The most important of clove tree uses is, of course, the plant’s aromatic dried buds, or cloves. The name cloves comes from Latin “clavus,” meaning nail, as cloves often look like small nails. Clove trees are evergreens that grow to some 40 feet tall. Their bark is smooth and gray, and their long, 5-inch leaves look like bay leaves. Blossoms are tiny – about ½ inch long – and gather in clusters at branch tips. The entire plant is fragrant and aromatic.
Clove Tree Growing Conditions
Can you grow a clove tree? You can, but it’s hard for most gardeners to replicate ideal clove tree growing conditions. Clove tree information tells you that the tree is native to wet, tropical areas of the world. Therefore, the trees grow best in a hot and wet region. Ideal growing conditions include at least 50 to 70 inches of rainfall annually. The minimum temperature for clove trees is 59 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.). Most commercial clove producers locate their plantations within 10 degrees of the equator.
Clove Tree Care
If you happen to live in such an area, and near the ocean, you probably won’t have much trouble growing clove trees. Plant the seeds in well-drained, fertile loam, then follow good practices for their care. One part of clove tree care is to install shade plants to protect the young seedlings for the first few years. Banana plants work well to provide this temporary shade. Clove trees are not a short-term project. The trees regularly live a century and sometimes live for over 300 years. More pertinent to the average gardener, you’ll have to wait at least 20 years for the tree to produce a full crop.
Clove Tree Uses
Many Americans use cloves for cooking. They are popular spices for baked hams and pumpkin pie. But clove tree uses are much broader than this globally. In Indonesia, cloves are used to make popular clove aromatized cigarettes. Other clove tree uses are medicinal. Extracted clove oil is also used as an essential oil that is used medicinally. Some people also make tea from cloves that is considered to help with stomach upsets, chills and impotence.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Fir clubmosses are tiny evergreens that look like little conifers. These ancient plants have an interesting past. Read on to find out more about fir clubmoss plants.
What is a Fir Clubmoss?
Fir clubmoss has a long history of medicinal and magical use. In medieval times, the plants were woven into wreaths and armbands. When worn, these adornments were thought to give the wearer the ability to understand the language of birds and beasts. The spores from the clubmosses were used to create bright, but brief, flashes of light in Victorian theater, allowing magicians and actors to disappear. Clubmosses are members of the Lycopodiaceae family, and they are among the most ancient plants still in existence today. Even older than ferns, they reproduce by means of spores found at the base of the leaves where they attach to the stems. Fir clubmoss (Huperzia appalachiana) is one of a group of closely related and nearly indistinguishable clubmosses.
How to Identify Fir Clubmoss
Fir clubmoss forms clumps of upright stems that look like tiny conifers. At the tip of the stem, you may find small plantlets with six leaves. These little plants look right at home in a rock garden. Many of the club mosses look similar, if not identical. You may have to rely on the differences in their preferred environment to differentiate between the species.
Where Does Fir Clubmoss Grow?
If you find them in cold, harsh, alpine environments, such as cliff sides and rocky outcrops, you probably have a fir clubmoss. When you find them in more protected environments, such as ditches and stream sides, they are more likely a similar species, such as H. selago. In North America, fir clubmoss is restricted to the higher elevations in the far Northeast.
Although it was once used to treat a variety of ailments, fir clubmoss is dangerous if taken internally. Chewing three of the needlelike leaves induces a hypnotic state, while eight can cause unconsciousness. The symptoms of fir clubmoss poisoning include nausea and vomiting, abdominal cramps, diarrhea, dizziness and slurred speech. Anyone suffering from fir clubmoss poisoning needs immediate medical treatment.
What is a Fir Clubmoss?
Fir clubmoss has a long history of medicinal and magical use. In medieval times, the plants were woven into wreaths and armbands. When worn, these adornments were thought to give the wearer the ability to understand the language of birds and beasts. The spores from the clubmosses were used to create bright, but brief, flashes of light in Victorian theater, allowing magicians and actors to disappear. Clubmosses are members of the Lycopodiaceae family, and they are among the most ancient plants still in existence today. Even older than ferns, they reproduce by means of spores found at the base of the leaves where they attach to the stems. Fir clubmoss (Huperzia appalachiana) is one of a group of closely related and nearly indistinguishable clubmosses.
How to Identify Fir Clubmoss
Fir clubmoss forms clumps of upright stems that look like tiny conifers. At the tip of the stem, you may find small plantlets with six leaves. These little plants look right at home in a rock garden. Many of the club mosses look similar, if not identical. You may have to rely on the differences in their preferred environment to differentiate between the species.
Where Does Fir Clubmoss Grow?
If you find them in cold, harsh, alpine environments, such as cliff sides and rocky outcrops, you probably have a fir clubmoss. When you find them in more protected environments, such as ditches and stream sides, they are more likely a similar species, such as H. selago. In North America, fir clubmoss is restricted to the higher elevations in the far Northeast.
Although it was once used to treat a variety of ailments, fir clubmoss is dangerous if taken internally. Chewing three of the needlelike leaves induces a hypnotic state, while eight can cause unconsciousness. The symptoms of fir clubmoss poisoning include nausea and vomiting, abdominal cramps, diarrhea, dizziness and slurred speech. Anyone suffering from fir clubmoss poisoning needs immediate medical treatment.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you are looking for something to naturalize a sloping home landscape, consider planting crown vetch for a natural backyard. While some may think of it as merely a weed, others have long since taken advantage of this plant’s unique beauty and use in the landscape. Best of all, the care of crown vetch ‘weed’ is extremely easy. So how do you grow crown vetch? Keep reading to learn more about this interesting plant.
What is Crown Vetch Weed?
Crown vetch (Coronilla varia L.) is a trailing herbaceous member of the pea family. This cool season perennial plant is also known as ax seed, ax wort, hive-vine, and trailing crown vetch. Introduced in North America from Europe in the 1950’s as a ground cover for soil erosion on banks and highways, this ground cover spread rapidly and naturalized throughout the United States. Although commonly planted as an ornamental, it is important that homeowners be aware this plant can become invasive in many areas, lending to its reference as crown vetch weed. That said, crown vetch fixes nitrogen in the soil and is commonly used to restore strip-mined soil. Use crown vetch for a natural backyard or to cover slopes or rocky areas in your landscape. Attractive pinkish-rose flowers appear in May through August sitting atop short fern-like leaflets. Flowers produce long and slender pods with seeds that are reported to be toxic.
How Do You Grow Crown Vetch?
Planting crown vetch can be done by seed or potted plants. If you have a large area to cover, it is best to use seed. Crown vetch is not particular about soil type and will tolerate low pH and low fertility. However, you can prepare the soil by adding lime and organic compost. Leave rocks and hunks of dirt for a somewhat uneven planting bed. While it prefers full sun, it will tolerate some spotty shade. Young plants also do best when covered with a shallow layer of mulch.
Care of Crown Vetch
Once planted, the care of crown vetch requires very little maintenance, if any. Water new plants regularly and mow established plants to the ground in early fall. Cover with a 2-inch layer of mulch for winter protection. Note: Crown vetch plants are commonly found in mail-order catalogs and nurseries with alternate spellings of one or two words. Either one is correct.
What is Crown Vetch Weed?
Crown vetch (Coronilla varia L.) is a trailing herbaceous member of the pea family. This cool season perennial plant is also known as ax seed, ax wort, hive-vine, and trailing crown vetch. Introduced in North America from Europe in the 1950’s as a ground cover for soil erosion on banks and highways, this ground cover spread rapidly and naturalized throughout the United States. Although commonly planted as an ornamental, it is important that homeowners be aware this plant can become invasive in many areas, lending to its reference as crown vetch weed. That said, crown vetch fixes nitrogen in the soil and is commonly used to restore strip-mined soil. Use crown vetch for a natural backyard or to cover slopes or rocky areas in your landscape. Attractive pinkish-rose flowers appear in May through August sitting atop short fern-like leaflets. Flowers produce long and slender pods with seeds that are reported to be toxic.
How Do You Grow Crown Vetch?
Planting crown vetch can be done by seed or potted plants. If you have a large area to cover, it is best to use seed. Crown vetch is not particular about soil type and will tolerate low pH and low fertility. However, you can prepare the soil by adding lime and organic compost. Leave rocks and hunks of dirt for a somewhat uneven planting bed. While it prefers full sun, it will tolerate some spotty shade. Young plants also do best when covered with a shallow layer of mulch.
Care of Crown Vetch
Once planted, the care of crown vetch requires very little maintenance, if any. Water new plants regularly and mow established plants to the ground in early fall. Cover with a 2-inch layer of mulch for winter protection. Note: Crown vetch plants are commonly found in mail-order catalogs and nurseries with alternate spellings of one or two words. Either one is correct.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses are edible flowers. From ancient times they have appeared at feasting tables as bouquets and as food. The flavor of roses is varied as the colors. The sweet, tart or spicy petals are easy to use and popular additions to any kitchen.
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Pampas grass is a popular landscape plant that is commonly seen in the home garden. Many homeowners use it to mark property lines, hide ugly fences or even as a windbreak. Pampas grass can grow quite large, over 6-feet with a 3-foot spread. Due to its size and numerous seeds, some people find pampas grass control a concern plus it is considered invasive in some areas. Thus, learning what kills pampas grass is important. Continue reading to learn how to remove pampas grass.
About Pampas Grass Plants
Pampas grass plants, native to Chile, Argentina and Brazil, are perennial grasses that grow immensely large with saw-toothed leaves and large pink or white, showy plumes. Although many home gardeners plant pampas grass for its elegant appearance and hardy nature, it can become a problem in some areas. The grass is not picky about soil or sunlight but does best in some sun and loamy soil. Pampas grass seeds freely and can eventually crowd out native plants. It can also create a fire hazard in some areas and interfere with grazing land. This is especially true in California, Africa and New Zealand where pampas grass is clearly recognized as an invasive plant. Each plant can contain up to 100,000 seeds per flower head that are quickly dispersed in the wind. Cutting the grass down in the early spring encourages new growth the following season and can sometimes alleviate issues with seeds. Caution must be taken when working with pampas grass, however, as the leaves are exceedingly sharp and can cause razor-like cuts.
How Can I Get Rid of Pampas Grass?
Some people try to remove pampas grass manually only to find that it has a massive root system. Digging the grass up is not an entirely full proof way to rid your landscape of the grass. The best possible pampas grass control involves a combination of physical and chemical methods. Because it is a grass, it is best to first cut it as close to the ground as possible. Once the grass is cut down, you can apply an herbicide such as Roundup. Several treatments may be necessary for established plants. For more information on what kills pampas grass, check with your local Cooperative Extension Office for advice.
About Pampas Grass Plants
Pampas grass plants, native to Chile, Argentina and Brazil, are perennial grasses that grow immensely large with saw-toothed leaves and large pink or white, showy plumes. Although many home gardeners plant pampas grass for its elegant appearance and hardy nature, it can become a problem in some areas. The grass is not picky about soil or sunlight but does best in some sun and loamy soil. Pampas grass seeds freely and can eventually crowd out native plants. It can also create a fire hazard in some areas and interfere with grazing land. This is especially true in California, Africa and New Zealand where pampas grass is clearly recognized as an invasive plant. Each plant can contain up to 100,000 seeds per flower head that are quickly dispersed in the wind. Cutting the grass down in the early spring encourages new growth the following season and can sometimes alleviate issues with seeds. Caution must be taken when working with pampas grass, however, as the leaves are exceedingly sharp and can cause razor-like cuts.
How Can I Get Rid of Pampas Grass?
Some people try to remove pampas grass manually only to find that it has a massive root system. Digging the grass up is not an entirely full proof way to rid your landscape of the grass. The best possible pampas grass control involves a combination of physical and chemical methods. Because it is a grass, it is best to first cut it as close to the ground as possible. Once the grass is cut down, you can apply an herbicide such as Roundup. Several treatments may be necessary for established plants. For more information on what kills pampas grass, check with your local Cooperative Extension Office for advice.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea) is a true grass native to Eurasia and found in moist, fertile, acidic soil. It has excellent use as an ornamental due to its neat tufting habit and charming, persistent inflorescence. The flowers may soar 5 to 8 feet above the basal foliage, producing an architectural appearance that stands out in the garden. Try growing ornamental moor grass in a massed planting for maximum effect.
How to Grow Moor Grass
Ornamental grass lovers should not pass up the opportunity to acquire autumn moor grass. Also, called purple moor grass, this attractive plant has appeal as a single specimen in a combined planter, an accent in the perennial garden or even perched in the rockery. Moor grasses come in many cultivars and are commercially represented by 12 commonly available names. Each has a slightly different foliage trait, height and inflorescence but the basic mounding habit and fine blades recognize them as part of the family.
Moor grass is seasonally interesting from summer to winter. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 4 and adaptable to many types of soils as long as they are moist but well draining.
Some partner plants with similar moisture needs to try growing with moor grass are:
Epimediums
Coreopsis
Salix or willow
Evergreen ornamental grasses
The plant produces numerous seeds, so remove the seed head in fall to prevent spread. Spread mulch around the grass to a depth of at least 2 inches of good organic material to prevent weed competitors and conserve moisture. Keep mulch away from direct contact with the base of the plant to prevent mold issues.
Moor Grass Care
One of the most important aspects of moor grass care is water. While the plant may rot out in boggy soils, it needs consistent moisture. Water the grass deeply once per week. Overhead watering may promote rust and other fungal diseases, so it is advised to water from the base of the plant. This is a deciduous grass, which will die back in winter. This means there is no need to cut back the plant. In fact, the spent grass is attractive for nesting material to wild birds and helps form a protective nest around the root zone. Simply rake it away in early spring so new blade emergence is not impeded.
Dividing Moor Grass
Division of ornamental grasses is undertaken to prevent center die out, increase vigor, and best of all, to make more of these attractive ornamentals. Moor grass can be divided every 3 to 4 years. The optimum time for division is late winter to very early spring. Dig out around the root zone and deeply into soil to remove the entire plant. Use a root saw to cut it into 2 or 3 sections. Make sure each has plenty of sprouting leaves and a good healthy clump of roots. Plant each section separately. Keep them watered as the plant sprouts and spreads out new roots. This easy step guarantees healthier grasses and increases the number of the regal moor grass.
How to Grow Moor Grass
Ornamental grass lovers should not pass up the opportunity to acquire autumn moor grass. Also, called purple moor grass, this attractive plant has appeal as a single specimen in a combined planter, an accent in the perennial garden or even perched in the rockery. Moor grasses come in many cultivars and are commercially represented by 12 commonly available names. Each has a slightly different foliage trait, height and inflorescence but the basic mounding habit and fine blades recognize them as part of the family.
Moor grass is seasonally interesting from summer to winter. The plant is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 4 and adaptable to many types of soils as long as they are moist but well draining.
Some partner plants with similar moisture needs to try growing with moor grass are:
Epimediums
Coreopsis
Salix or willow
Evergreen ornamental grasses
The plant produces numerous seeds, so remove the seed head in fall to prevent spread. Spread mulch around the grass to a depth of at least 2 inches of good organic material to prevent weed competitors and conserve moisture. Keep mulch away from direct contact with the base of the plant to prevent mold issues.
Moor Grass Care
One of the most important aspects of moor grass care is water. While the plant may rot out in boggy soils, it needs consistent moisture. Water the grass deeply once per week. Overhead watering may promote rust and other fungal diseases, so it is advised to water from the base of the plant. This is a deciduous grass, which will die back in winter. This means there is no need to cut back the plant. In fact, the spent grass is attractive for nesting material to wild birds and helps form a protective nest around the root zone. Simply rake it away in early spring so new blade emergence is not impeded.
Dividing Moor Grass
Division of ornamental grasses is undertaken to prevent center die out, increase vigor, and best of all, to make more of these attractive ornamentals. Moor grass can be divided every 3 to 4 years. The optimum time for division is late winter to very early spring. Dig out around the root zone and deeply into soil to remove the entire plant. Use a root saw to cut it into 2 or 3 sections. Make sure each has plenty of sprouting leaves and a good healthy clump of roots. Plant each section separately. Keep them watered as the plant sprouts and spreads out new roots. This easy step guarantees healthier grasses and increases the number of the regal moor grass.
0
0
