文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月09日
The Walla Walla onion is a sweet white onion identified with the Pacific Northwest and the Walla Walla, Washington, area in particular. The onion is a bulb onion bred for use as a diced or sliced product rather than for use fresh as a green onion or as a small bulb for pickling. Onions are commonly harvested in the summer or early fall of the year.
Harvest Signs
Harvest Walla Walla onions when the tops fall over. This indicates the plant is no longer actively growing. Lift the onions out of the soil using a garden fork or shovel. Leave the onion laying in the garden with the top attached for about two weeks. Remove the onion from the garden when the skin resembles paper.
Harvest Timing
Harvest commonly occurs about four months after the Walla Walla onion sets were planted in the garden. In Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla and some other onion varieties are planted in the fall and allowed to overwinter in the ground. The plants begin growth the next spring and are ready for harvest in the summer.
Trimming the Onion
Trim the onion when it is removed from the garden. Clip the onion top off about 2 inches above the bulb. The onion stems can be composted.
Storing the Onion
Place the onions in a mesh or burlap bag for storage. These types of bags allow air circulation all around the onion. Hang the bags to further promote air circulation and avoid damp spots in the bag from contact with a floor. Store onions in conditions above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for best long-term storage.
Harvest Signs
Harvest Walla Walla onions when the tops fall over. This indicates the plant is no longer actively growing. Lift the onions out of the soil using a garden fork or shovel. Leave the onion laying in the garden with the top attached for about two weeks. Remove the onion from the garden when the skin resembles paper.
Harvest Timing
Harvest commonly occurs about four months after the Walla Walla onion sets were planted in the garden. In Washington and Oregon, the Walla Walla and some other onion varieties are planted in the fall and allowed to overwinter in the ground. The plants begin growth the next spring and are ready for harvest in the summer.
Trimming the Onion
Trim the onion when it is removed from the garden. Clip the onion top off about 2 inches above the bulb. The onion stems can be composted.
Storing the Onion
Place the onions in a mesh or burlap bag for storage. These types of bags allow air circulation all around the onion. Hang the bags to further promote air circulation and avoid damp spots in the bag from contact with a floor. Store onions in conditions above freezing but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit for best long-term storage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月20日
Rhubarb stalks contain oxalic acid, which is toxic when eaten in large amounts. Most animals avoid rhubarb, but hungry animals will eat almost anything. Use a process of elimination to identify the animal eating your rhubarb and then take action to protect young, tender stalks.
Insect Pests
Rhubarb doesn't have a lot of insect pests, but the two most common ones are rhubarb curculio, or rusty snout beetle, and slugs. Black spots on the stems of the plants indicate rhubarb curcolio; jagged holes indicate slug or snail activity. Control the beetles with rotenone or pick them off by hand. Set out slug traps if slugs are destroying the rhubarb.
Furry Friends
Deer are the most likely grazers and will eat rhubarb down to the ground. They generally only bother the rhubarb in the early spring, when other food sources are scarce. Raccoons may also occasionally eat rhubarb. Cows and sheep will graze on wild rhubarb in fields, but in a home landscape, this shouldn't be a problem.
Control
The simplest way to keep marauding deer and raccoons out of the rhubarb is to build a wooden frame that fits over the rhubarb plant. Cover the frame with 1/2 inch chicken wire. Secure the frame at the base with landscaping pins so the deer can't knock it over. Other options include commercial deer repellents or scare tactics, like motion-sensing lights. A protective family dog can also deter pests.
Toxicity
Symptoms of rhubarb poisoning in grazing animals include diarrhea, depression, trembling, and drinking and urinating more frequently. Animals are rarely poisoned by consuming small amounts of leaves, but in large amounts, rhubarb leaves can cause kidney failure and even death. Ensure that young children and household pets don't consume the leaves.
Insect Pests
Rhubarb doesn't have a lot of insect pests, but the two most common ones are rhubarb curculio, or rusty snout beetle, and slugs. Black spots on the stems of the plants indicate rhubarb curcolio; jagged holes indicate slug or snail activity. Control the beetles with rotenone or pick them off by hand. Set out slug traps if slugs are destroying the rhubarb.
Furry Friends
Deer are the most likely grazers and will eat rhubarb down to the ground. They generally only bother the rhubarb in the early spring, when other food sources are scarce. Raccoons may also occasionally eat rhubarb. Cows and sheep will graze on wild rhubarb in fields, but in a home landscape, this shouldn't be a problem.
Control
The simplest way to keep marauding deer and raccoons out of the rhubarb is to build a wooden frame that fits over the rhubarb plant. Cover the frame with 1/2 inch chicken wire. Secure the frame at the base with landscaping pins so the deer can't knock it over. Other options include commercial deer repellents or scare tactics, like motion-sensing lights. A protective family dog can also deter pests.
Toxicity
Symptoms of rhubarb poisoning in grazing animals include diarrhea, depression, trembling, and drinking and urinating more frequently. Animals are rarely poisoned by consuming small amounts of leaves, but in large amounts, rhubarb leaves can cause kidney failure and even death. Ensure that young children and household pets don't consume the leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
There are several reasons for growing a bean plant in a cup. This method is commonly used to demonstrate the growing process in classroom settings because the plants germinate and sprout quickly, while requiring very little care. Some gardeners use this method as a way to begin growing plants before outdoor growing conditions are favorable. Whatever the reason, there are a few guidelines to follow in order to produce a healthy bean plant.
Step 1
Obtain seeds for the type of bean plant you would like to grow from a local seed supplier. Dried beans from a grocery store can also be used, although these may not germinate properly because they have been processed to be eaten, rather than to be grown.
Step 2
Fill an 8-oz. Styrofoam cup to the top with soil. Make sure not to pack the soil down into the cup.
Step 3
Create a hole in the soil at the center of the cup by pressing one finger into the soil to a depth of 1 inch.
Step 4
Place the bean in the bottom of the hole. Fill in the hole with soil and lightly compress the soil so that it is no longer loose. Do not compress the soil too much, or the roots and other growing parts will be hindered as they try to grow through the soil.
Step 5
Water the seed gently by sprinkling enough water on the soil to moisten it. Beans grow best in soil that is moist, rather than wet.
Step 6
Place the cup in a location that will receive sunlight for at least six to eight hours a day and water as needed for the soil to stay moist.
Step 1
Obtain seeds for the type of bean plant you would like to grow from a local seed supplier. Dried beans from a grocery store can also be used, although these may not germinate properly because they have been processed to be eaten, rather than to be grown.
Step 2
Fill an 8-oz. Styrofoam cup to the top with soil. Make sure not to pack the soil down into the cup.
Step 3
Create a hole in the soil at the center of the cup by pressing one finger into the soil to a depth of 1 inch.
Step 4
Place the bean in the bottom of the hole. Fill in the hole with soil and lightly compress the soil so that it is no longer loose. Do not compress the soil too much, or the roots and other growing parts will be hindered as they try to grow through the soil.
Step 5
Water the seed gently by sprinkling enough water on the soil to moisten it. Beans grow best in soil that is moist, rather than wet.
Step 6
Place the cup in a location that will receive sunlight for at least six to eight hours a day and water as needed for the soil to stay moist.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Commonly called a money tree for its use in the practice of feng shui as a bringer of good fortune, Pachira aquatica is a tropical tree commonly used as a houseplant and bonsai specimen. The plant features clusters of showy oval evergreen leaves and can bear edible nuts. Often seen with braided or twisted trunks, a money tree can have the misfortune to fall prey to insects or mistakes in care that can leave it sick.
Step 1
Examine your sick money tree for signs that it is being either over watered or under watered. Leaves on a money tree that are over watered become yellow and droopy, according to online bonsai nursery JoeBonsai.com. Too-dry trees exhibit leaves that are wrinkled and curled. Watering issues are the most likely culprit behind any houseplant problems, according to Purdue University Cooperative Extension, so start here first.
Step 2
Repot your money tree in equal parts potting soil, peat and perlite in a pot with a drainage hole to avoid having its roots sit in water if your plant shows signs of being consistently wet. Allow soil in the new pot to dry completely between waterings.
Step 3
Move your sick money tree plant to a location that receives bright sunlight in either the morning or late afternoon and mid-afternoon shade. Spots and blisters on leaves are signs light is too intense for the plant. Yellowing in older leaves is a sign of insufficient light, according to Ohio State University Extension. A money tree can be damaged when it is left out in the cold -- below 50 degrees Fahrenheit -- or in a spot that is too warm -- above 86 F. The preferred temperature range for a money tree is from 77 to 86 F, according to Hrovatin Exotica, an online exotic plant resource.
Step 4
Add an all-purpose fertilizer once a month to a money tree with all-over yellowed leaves. The exception is a bonsai-sized money tree, which only needs added nutrients once in the spring and once in the fall. Leaves wilting and dropping from the money tree can be a sign of over fertilizing.
Step 5
Examine stems and leaves for specks, webbing, sticky residue, white bumps and branch dieback -- all signs of either spider mite, mealy bug or scale infestation, to which money plants are particularly susceptible.
Step 6
Set the plant in the shower and wash residue and webbing off the leaves and stems with a gentle spray of lukewarm water. Spray both sides of the leaves with insecticidal soap to eliminate mites and mealy bugs.
Step 7
Apply rubbing alcohol to a cotton swab and dab it on the small bumps -- scale insects -- on the stems of your money tree if it is lightly infested. Use a spray with the active ingredient pyrethrin, a plant-derived insecticide, on plants with larger infestations. The spray works on mealy bugs as well.
Step 1
Examine your sick money tree for signs that it is being either over watered or under watered. Leaves on a money tree that are over watered become yellow and droopy, according to online bonsai nursery JoeBonsai.com. Too-dry trees exhibit leaves that are wrinkled and curled. Watering issues are the most likely culprit behind any houseplant problems, according to Purdue University Cooperative Extension, so start here first.
Step 2
Repot your money tree in equal parts potting soil, peat and perlite in a pot with a drainage hole to avoid having its roots sit in water if your plant shows signs of being consistently wet. Allow soil in the new pot to dry completely between waterings.
Step 3
Move your sick money tree plant to a location that receives bright sunlight in either the morning or late afternoon and mid-afternoon shade. Spots and blisters on leaves are signs light is too intense for the plant. Yellowing in older leaves is a sign of insufficient light, according to Ohio State University Extension. A money tree can be damaged when it is left out in the cold -- below 50 degrees Fahrenheit -- or in a spot that is too warm -- above 86 F. The preferred temperature range for a money tree is from 77 to 86 F, according to Hrovatin Exotica, an online exotic plant resource.
Step 4
Add an all-purpose fertilizer once a month to a money tree with all-over yellowed leaves. The exception is a bonsai-sized money tree, which only needs added nutrients once in the spring and once in the fall. Leaves wilting and dropping from the money tree can be a sign of over fertilizing.
Step 5
Examine stems and leaves for specks, webbing, sticky residue, white bumps and branch dieback -- all signs of either spider mite, mealy bug or scale infestation, to which money plants are particularly susceptible.
Step 6
Set the plant in the shower and wash residue and webbing off the leaves and stems with a gentle spray of lukewarm water. Spray both sides of the leaves with insecticidal soap to eliminate mites and mealy bugs.
Step 7
Apply rubbing alcohol to a cotton swab and dab it on the small bumps -- scale insects -- on the stems of your money tree if it is lightly infested. Use a spray with the active ingredient pyrethrin, a plant-derived insecticide, on plants with larger infestations. The spray works on mealy bugs as well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
Tomato plants (Lycopersicon lycopersicum) technically produce fruits, but people use the fruits as vegetables in salads and other dishes too numerous to list. Unfortunately, squirrels eat tomato fruits, too, passing up unripe green ones to eat only those that are ripe red. Foiling hungry squirrels is never simple. Tomato plants usually are grown as annuals.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
Use Dogs and Cats
The old-fashioned method of letting a dog roam the garden is one way of discouraging squirrels from eating tomato fruits. They don't like cats either. Cats prey on squirrels.
Not all dogs are equal for this chore. Some dogs are squirrel specialists. For example, the American squirrel dog is bred to chase squirrels. A German pinscher is specifically bred to chase squirrels and other rodents.
Build Physical Barriers
Keep squirrels from eating your tomato fruits by covering your plants with plastic bird netting, chicken wire or hardware cloth; all of those barrier items are available at many garden supply centers. Whether or not this method is practical depends on the variety of tomato plants you grow.
Indeterminate tomatoes, including heirloom varieties, yield fruits all summer, but those plants are climbers that need to be staked. They can grow 10 to 12 feet tall, although 6 to 8 feet is more usual, hardly a size that you can easily surround with a barrier.
Determinate tomatoes, which usually bear fruits in late June, typically remain under 5 feet tall. So they are possible candidates for covering with bird netting.
Dwarf tomatoes, which are hybrid determinate cultivars, grow as low as 3 feet high and spread 3 feet wide. They are small enough to cover with bird netting or even chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Cage small determinate or dwarf tomato plants by encircling each of them with chicken wire and stringing bird netting over each one's top. Fasten the netting in place with clothespins. When you harvest your tomato fruits, simply remove the netting, and then put it back in place.
Wrap individual ripening tomato fruits with bird netting.
Use Smell, Bad and Good
Squirrels can smell predators, including dogs and cats, and avoid predator-scented areas. Collect dog or cat hair in a vacuum cleaner, or get some from a pet store. Put the hair in a nylon stocking or porous bag, and place the stocking or bag at the foot of your tomato plants. A variation of this method is to spray urine from wolves or other squirrel predators on the ground at the base of your tomato plants. Some garden supply stores offer predator urine.
Squirrels avoid the odor of blood meal, too. It is a dry powder extracted from slaughterhouse waste and sometimes is used as an organic fertilizer; it is available at plant nurseries and garden supply centers. Spread blood meal on the soil around your tomato plants, using fewer than 4 ounces of blood meal per 1 square yard. Blood meal contains high levels of ammonia and nitrogen; so do not apply more than that amount.
Combine 5 ounces bottle of hot pepper sauce and 1 teaspoon of a liquid, mild detergent with 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the bases of your tomato plants. Respray the plants with the mixture every few days for two weeks while the squirrels learn to avoid your tomatoes. Also respray after it rains.
Establish a squirrel hangout with peanuts, corn, sunflower seeds and other food squirrels eat; you could even include some tomatoes in the mix. Give the squirrels water at the hangout, too. Place the hangout in an isolated spot well away from your tomatoes. If they get their fill at the hangout, they'll have no reason to raid your tomatoes.
Use Water and Motion
Install a motion-activated sprinkler that will douse the critters with water when they invade your garden.
Another option is to install pinwheels, compact disks or aluminum pie tins in your garden. They will move and flash whenever the wind blows. These items work for a while, and then squirrels get used to them and go for the garden's tomatoes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月15日
Native to Florida and the southern portion of the U.S., muscadine grapes grow in small clusters. Most grape farmers use muscadine grapes in wines, jams, jellies and juices, but the fruit also offers a pleasing taste when eaten directly from the vine. Muscadine grapes prefer to grow in sunny, well-drained soils of USDA hardiness zones 6 through 9. Within one of these hardiness zones you can plant muscadine grapes successfully in your background landscape.
Seed Germination
Step 1
Remove muscadine grape seeds from the ripe fruit. Remove any attached pulp. Rinse with lukewarm water. Lay the seeds on a paper plate to dry, undisturbed for 24 hours.
Step 2
Place damp peat moss into a plastic sandwich until it is half full. Drop the muscadine grape seeds into the baggie and seal it. Place the baggie in the refrigerator for three months.
Step 3
Pour sterile potting soil into 4-inch pots until they are three-fourths full. Remove the muscadine grape seeds from the refrigerator after the three-month stratification period. Push two to three seeds ¼ of an inch into the soil of each pot.
Step 4
Mist the soil with lukewarm water. Set the pots on a tray. Place the tray in an area that receives bright, indirect light. Maintain a temperature of approximately 75 degrees F during the germination process, which usually begins within two to three weeks.
Step 5
Maintain bright light and moist soil conditions as the muscadine grape seedlings continue to grow. Transplant the seedlings into 6-inch pots when they outgrow the 4-inch pots. Transplant the seedlings outdoors after a full year of growth.
Transplanting Outdoors
Step 1
Dig holes large enough to accommodate the root balls of the muscadine grape seedlings. The leaves of the plants should remain above the soil line when positioned in the holes. Space the holes 20 feet apart.
Step 2
Keep the soil moist at a 1-inch depth throughout the growing season. After the first year of growth, muscadine grapes will only require supplemental watering during drought.
Step 3
Secure each of the muscadine grape plants with flexible cording attached to a stake. Set up a trellis behind each of the stakes to guide the muscadine grape plants upward as they grow.
Seed Germination
Step 1
Remove muscadine grape seeds from the ripe fruit. Remove any attached pulp. Rinse with lukewarm water. Lay the seeds on a paper plate to dry, undisturbed for 24 hours.
Step 2
Place damp peat moss into a plastic sandwich until it is half full. Drop the muscadine grape seeds into the baggie and seal it. Place the baggie in the refrigerator for three months.
Step 3
Pour sterile potting soil into 4-inch pots until they are three-fourths full. Remove the muscadine grape seeds from the refrigerator after the three-month stratification period. Push two to three seeds ¼ of an inch into the soil of each pot.
Step 4
Mist the soil with lukewarm water. Set the pots on a tray. Place the tray in an area that receives bright, indirect light. Maintain a temperature of approximately 75 degrees F during the germination process, which usually begins within two to three weeks.
Step 5
Maintain bright light and moist soil conditions as the muscadine grape seedlings continue to grow. Transplant the seedlings into 6-inch pots when they outgrow the 4-inch pots. Transplant the seedlings outdoors after a full year of growth.
Transplanting Outdoors
Step 1
Dig holes large enough to accommodate the root balls of the muscadine grape seedlings. The leaves of the plants should remain above the soil line when positioned in the holes. Space the holes 20 feet apart.
Step 2
Keep the soil moist at a 1-inch depth throughout the growing season. After the first year of growth, muscadine grapes will only require supplemental watering during drought.
Step 3
Secure each of the muscadine grape plants with flexible cording attached to a stake. Set up a trellis behind each of the stakes to guide the muscadine grape plants upward as they grow.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月04日
Blueberries are popular fruit for home growing, especially in areas with moist or acidic soil. These bushes produce fruit that works well for fresh, cooked or frozen use. Like other plants, blueberry bushes go through a specific set of stages over the course of their lives. This life cycle can be influenced, but not changed, by environmental factors.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
Seed
Each blueberry fruit contains many extremely tiny seeds. In nature, unharvested fruit falls to the ground. As it decays, the seeds come into contact with the soil, sprouting the next spring when the weather warms. Birds and mammals also eat blueberry fruit, dispersing seeds. Most cultivated blueberries are not actually grown from seed. Instead, they're grown from cuttings, and are really just clones of the parent plant. Blueberry seeds will produce genetically different offspring.
Growth
Blueberry seeds begin to germinate when temperatures reach 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to the University of Maine Extension website, they take about a month to germinate and emerge from the soil. They grow quickly, becoming small bushes within a few months. As cold weather approaches, blueberry bushes become dormant for the winter. They shut down their life processes during the cold months, and can survive temperatures as low as minus-10 degrees Fahrenheit. When weather warms again, the roots revive and begin to provide sugar for later growth. Blueberry bushes can live for up to 30 to 50 years, according to the University of Minnesota Extension website. They may take several years to reach maturity and produce fruit.
Flower
Adult blueberry plants put out clusters of six to 12 small white flowers in late spring. These flowers open starting at the base of the bud. Blueberries cannot pollinate themselves, and require bees to fertilize their flowers. Several species, including bumble bees, honeybees, carpenter bees and southeastern blueberry bees, visit these flowers and transfer pollen from the anthers to the stigma, allowing the adult bush to fruit and reproduce.
Fruit
Fertilized blueberry flowers produce the familiar purplish-blue berry within a few weeks of blooming. According to the Michigan State University Extension website, the first flowers pollinated usually fruit sooner and produce larger blueberries. This occurs because fruit at the bottom of the cluster receives sugars and other nutrients from the roots before fruit at the top of the cluster.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Firm, tightly tied hay or straw bales make a quick and easy-to-use organic raised bed for growing strawberries. Gardening in bales allows you to transform rocky, uneven or clay soil — or even a paved parking spot — into fertile growing space. Though growing in a bale is most often recommended for annuals, it's possible to grow strawberries in them for two years, especially if you live in a more northern climate. Make sure your strawberry bed is near a water source, since you'll be watering often.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
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成长记
Flora Wong
2017年10月25日
I'm guessing at some point, they didn't have enough sun and the leaves grew quite spaced out. Now that it's getting loads of sun, it's getting top heavy 🤔 what else can be done if I don't use toothpicks? :P
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cclecombe
2017年10月18日
Does anyone on here use instagram for plants (or anything else for that matter!)? If so I'd love to follow you! Comment your usernames below 🌿😊
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Tlhoward120：@nofilternosoul 😊
Estefania Pereira：its more of a daily vlog kind of account, try to take pictures of my surroundings in the places i go, it would be @tefi_pr
meriunkat：@cclecombe aww thanks 😳😄
cclecombe：@meriunkat you're super talented! I love it!!
cclecombe：@meriunkat even better, I love having new artists to follow!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
1. You can only use Aloe vera on the skin as it helps with skin problems.
Fact: You can drink Aloe vera. You can also put it on the inside of your mouth to get rid of sores and mouth ulcers. Drinking it is very beneficial to your health. It is very good for controlling blood sugar as well.
2. Aloe is only good for sunburn.
Fact: Aloe vera is good for all sorts of illnesses. Yes it is good for sunburn, but it has a lot of other uses as well.
3. You have to have an illness to drink Aloe vera.
Fact: Anyone can drink aloe. Even if you are completely healthy. In fact aloe helps to boost your immune system so you are less likely to catch colds and flu.
4. The best way to use Aloe vera is fresh from the plant.
Fact: Aloe fresh from the plant goes off very quickly. You would have to use it immediately in order to get the benefits. Aloe products that have been processed are designed to last longer.
5. The whole leaf is better than just the inside.
Fact: The rind of the plant does not make any difference to the effectiveness of the Aloe.
6. Powdered and Aloe capsules are just as good as the drink.
Fact: Powdered and aloe capsules have been over processed. Some of the goodness is in the liquid part of the plant.
7. You should see results quickly when drinking Aloe.
Fact: Like all natural products it takes a while to feel the benefits. You will have to take it for at least 2 months to notice any difference.
8. All Aloe plants are the same.
Fact: There are several different species of Aloe. Some of them have no healing properties at all. The Aloe vera plant is the one that needs to be used.
9. Aloe vera tastes disgusting.
Fact: It is an acquired taste. There are several different flavours of Aloe vera on the market and there should be one that will suit your taste-buds. Also once you drink it you will find that it starts to taste better.
10. All brands of Aloe vera juice work in the same way.
Fact: You will need to check the ingredients list on the bottle to see how much Aloe vera it actually contains. If Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is the first ingredient on the list you can be sure that you will get the benefits. If Aloe vera is too far down the list, you might as well just drink water as you will hardly get any benefits at all.
Fact: You can drink Aloe vera. You can also put it on the inside of your mouth to get rid of sores and mouth ulcers. Drinking it is very beneficial to your health. It is very good for controlling blood sugar as well.
2. Aloe is only good for sunburn.
Fact: Aloe vera is good for all sorts of illnesses. Yes it is good for sunburn, but it has a lot of other uses as well.
3. You have to have an illness to drink Aloe vera.
Fact: Anyone can drink aloe. Even if you are completely healthy. In fact aloe helps to boost your immune system so you are less likely to catch colds and flu.
4. The best way to use Aloe vera is fresh from the plant.
Fact: Aloe fresh from the plant goes off very quickly. You would have to use it immediately in order to get the benefits. Aloe products that have been processed are designed to last longer.
5. The whole leaf is better than just the inside.
Fact: The rind of the plant does not make any difference to the effectiveness of the Aloe.
6. Powdered and Aloe capsules are just as good as the drink.
Fact: Powdered and aloe capsules have been over processed. Some of the goodness is in the liquid part of the plant.
7. You should see results quickly when drinking Aloe.
Fact: Like all natural products it takes a while to feel the benefits. You will have to take it for at least 2 months to notice any difference.
8. All Aloe plants are the same.
Fact: There are several different species of Aloe. Some of them have no healing properties at all. The Aloe vera plant is the one that needs to be used.
9. Aloe vera tastes disgusting.
Fact: It is an acquired taste. There are several different flavours of Aloe vera on the market and there should be one that will suit your taste-buds. Also once you drink it you will find that it starts to taste better.
10. All brands of Aloe vera juice work in the same way.
Fact: You will need to check the ingredients list on the bottle to see how much Aloe vera it actually contains. If Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is the first ingredient on the list you can be sure that you will get the benefits. If Aloe vera is too far down the list, you might as well just drink water as you will hardly get any benefits at all.
4
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月02日
The healing power of Aloe vera has been embraced since ancient times. In traditional Indian medicine, it has a history of use for skin conditions and infections, among a plethora of other ailments, while in China, it is employed to combat fungal diseases. In the West, it is known that Aloe vera cannot be beat to ease the pain of a nasty sunburn.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
1. You can only use Aloe vera on the skin as it helps with skin problems.
Fact: You can drink Aloe vera. You can also put it on the inside of your mouth to get rid of sores and mouth ulcers. Drinking it is very beneficial to your health. It is very good for controlling blood sugar as well.
2. Aloe is only good for sunburn.
Fact: Aloe vera is good for all sorts of illnesses. Yes it is good for sunburn, but it has a lot of other uses as well.
3. You have to have an illness to drink Aloe vera.
Fact: Anyone can drink aloe. Even if you are completely healthy. In fact aloe helps to boost your immune system so you are less likely to catch colds and flu.
4. The best way to use Aloe vera is fresh from the plant.
Fact: Aloe fresh from the plant goes off very quickly. You would have to use it immediately in order to get the benefits. Aloe products that have been processed are designed to last longer.
5. The whole leaf is better than just the inside.
Fact: The rind of the plant does not make any difference to the effectiveness of the Aloe.
6. Powdered and Aloe capsules are just as good as the drink.
Fact: Powdered and aloe capsules have been over processed. Some of the goodness is in the liquid part of the plant.
7. You should see results quickly when drinking Aloe.
Fact: Like all natural products it takes a while to feel the benefits. You will have to take it for at least 2 months to notice any difference.
8. All Aloe plants are the same.
Fact: There are several different species of Aloe. Some of them have no healing properties at all. The Aloe vera plant is the one that needs to be used.
9. Aloe vera tastes disgusting.
Fact: It is an acquired taste. There are several different flavours of Aloe vera on the market and there should be one that will suit your taste-buds. Also once you drink it you will find that it starts to taste better.
10. All brands of Aloe vera juice work in the same way.
Fact: You will need to check the ingredients list on the bottle to see how much Aloe vera it actually contains. If Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is the first ingredient on the list you can be sure that you will get the benefits. If Aloe vera is too far down the list, you might as well just drink water as you will hardly get any benefits at all.
Fact: You can drink Aloe vera. You can also put it on the inside of your mouth to get rid of sores and mouth ulcers. Drinking it is very beneficial to your health. It is very good for controlling blood sugar as well.
2. Aloe is only good for sunburn.
Fact: Aloe vera is good for all sorts of illnesses. Yes it is good for sunburn, but it has a lot of other uses as well.
3. You have to have an illness to drink Aloe vera.
Fact: Anyone can drink aloe. Even if you are completely healthy. In fact aloe helps to boost your immune system so you are less likely to catch colds and flu.
4. The best way to use Aloe vera is fresh from the plant.
Fact: Aloe fresh from the plant goes off very quickly. You would have to use it immediately in order to get the benefits. Aloe products that have been processed are designed to last longer.
5. The whole leaf is better than just the inside.
Fact: The rind of the plant does not make any difference to the effectiveness of the Aloe.
6. Powdered and Aloe capsules are just as good as the drink.
Fact: Powdered and aloe capsules have been over processed. Some of the goodness is in the liquid part of the plant.
7. You should see results quickly when drinking Aloe.
Fact: Like all natural products it takes a while to feel the benefits. You will have to take it for at least 2 months to notice any difference.
8. All Aloe plants are the same.
Fact: There are several different species of Aloe. Some of them have no healing properties at all. The Aloe vera plant is the one that needs to be used.
9. Aloe vera tastes disgusting.
Fact: It is an acquired taste. There are several different flavours of Aloe vera on the market and there should be one that will suit your taste-buds. Also once you drink it you will find that it starts to taste better.
10. All brands of Aloe vera juice work in the same way.
Fact: You will need to check the ingredients list on the bottle to see how much Aloe vera it actually contains. If Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is the first ingredient on the list you can be sure that you will get the benefits. If Aloe vera is too far down the list, you might as well just drink water as you will hardly get any benefits at all.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年10月01日
The healing power of Aloe vera has been embraced since ancient times. In traditional Indian medicine, it has a history of use for skin conditions and infections, among a plethora of other ailments, while in China, it is employed to combat fungal diseases. In the West, it is known that Aloe vera cannot be beat to ease the pain of a nasty sunburn.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
One notable benefit of Aloe vera is its potential as an anti-aging serum. A study performed at the Seoul National University Boramae Hospital in Korea sought to examine these effects. Researchers gave 30 healthy female participants over the age of 45 Aloe vera gel to apply to their skin, some in high doses, and some in low. The participants applied the gel for 90 days, at which time their facial wrinkles and elasticity were analyzed.
Results of the analysis showed that in both the high and low dose groups, facial wrinkles had significantly diminished, while elasticity was markedly improved in the low dose group. It was not clear why the low dose group had greater improvement in elasticity than the high dose group, and researchers concluded that, “no dose-response relationship was found between the low-dose and high-dose groups.”
It is possible that the dosage discrepancy in the Seoul study was due to the fact that Aloe vera is very much intended to be used in its natural form, as opposed to a concentrate mixed into a gel. Pure Aloe vera is ready to be applied straight from a cut leaf of the plant. When commercial Aloe vera is produced, however, its natural healing properties become compromised.
In their Evaluation of the Nutritional and Metabolic Effects of Aloe vera, authors Meika Foster, Duncan Hunger and Samir Samman explain that when Aloe vera is processed, the whole leaf is first pulverized to produce the juice, and then undergoes processes of filtration and stabilization until the desired extract potency is reached.
The authors write, “this method provides ease of processing and higher efficiency in the recovery of the solids, but it can result in a product that contains little or no active ingredients.” They also explain that heating Aloe vera, as often occurs during processing, changes its molecular structure.
Commercial Aloe vera gels also often include fillers such as maltodextrin (a corn sugar that likely comes from GMO corn), glycerin, glucose and malic acid, and sometimes an array of other chemicals that you probably do not want seeping into your skin.
Luckily, if you’ve got ample sunlight in your home, growing your own Aloe vera is easy. Plant an existing Aloe vera plant in a wide pot with well-draining soil. It should be watered generously, but allowed to dry to an inch or 2 (2.5 or 5 cm) deep between waterings.
To use, simply cut a leaf from a mature plant, squeeze out the gel, and smooth over skin. The cooling sensation is highly pleasant, and the anti-aging potential of the plant may produce significant results in your complexion.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
ACCORDING to the Gallup Gardening Survey, less than half of the country's home gardeners use any kind of fertilizer on their lawns or gardens. What's unfortunate about this statistic is that it means gardeners aren't getting as many flowers or as much produce as they should. And they're probably struggling with disease and insect problems that could be avoided.
Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful. This article covers the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden.
Plant Nutrients 101
Plants need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those tasty tomatoes and beautiful roses you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your garden, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year's plants have the food they need to flourish.
There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen—from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plants have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plant may grow abundant foliage but not produce fruit or flowers. Growth may actually be stunted because the plant isn't absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.
Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plant to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plants require a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus.
Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant. It helps the plants make carbohydrates and provides disease resistance. It also helps regulate metabolic activities.
There are three additional nutrients that plants need, but in much smaller amounts:
Calcium is used by plants in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together.
Magnesium is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plants can't process sunlight.
Sulfur is a component of many proteins.
Finally, there are eight elements that plants need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, copper and iron. Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.
Organic vs. Synthetic
Do plants really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plants slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.
Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plant almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can "burn" foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil's long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plants even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.
For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plants by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.
Foliar Feeding?
Plants can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.
What About pH?
Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it's best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.
How to Choose a Fertilizer
In most cases, an all-purpose, 5-5-5 fertilizer will provide the nutrients all plants need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plants (tomatoes vs. flowers), you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.
The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 5-5-5, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This "N-P-K" ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 5-7-4, it contains 5 pounds of nitrate, 7 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 4 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.
Fertilizers offered by Gardener's Supply are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials. To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they're in active growth
Well-fed plants are healthier, more productive and more beautiful. This article covers the basics of why and how to fertilize your garden.
Plant Nutrients 101
Plants need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with great garden soil, as your plants grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those tasty tomatoes and beautiful roses you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your garden, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year's plants have the food they need to flourish.
There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three—carbon, hydrogen and oxygen—from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen helps plants make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plants have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plant may grow abundant foliage but not produce fruit or flowers. Growth may actually be stunted because the plant isn't absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.
Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plant to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plants require a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus.
Potassium improves overall vigor of the plant. It helps the plants make carbohydrates and provides disease resistance. It also helps regulate metabolic activities.
There are three additional nutrients that plants need, but in much smaller amounts:
Calcium is used by plants in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together.
Magnesium is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plants can't process sunlight.
Sulfur is a component of many proteins.
Finally, there are eight elements that plants need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, copper and iron. Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.
Organic vs. Synthetic
Do plants really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.
In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plants slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plants. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plants need.
Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plant almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can "burn" foliage and damage your plants. Synthetic fertilizers give plants a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil's long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plants even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.
For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plants by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.
Foliar Feeding?
Plants can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets.
What About pH?
Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plants if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plants, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it's best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.
How to Choose a Fertilizer
In most cases, an all-purpose, 5-5-5 fertilizer will provide the nutrients all plants need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plants (tomatoes vs. flowers), you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.
The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 5-5-5, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This "N-P-K" ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 5-7-4, it contains 5 pounds of nitrate, 7 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 4 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.
Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.
Fertilizers offered by Gardener's Supply are either all-organic, or contain primarily organic materials. To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular organic fertilizers. Supplementing with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they're in active growth
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