文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a commonly grown herb plant popular for its fragrant aroma. This easy-care plant enjoys hot, dry conditions, making it suitable for use in a variety of landscape settings and an excellent candidate for areas prone to drought. Keep reading to learn more about lavender plant care.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Now that you have successfully grown and harvested your garlic, it is time to decide how to store your aromatic crop. The best way to store garlic depends on how you intend to use it. Continue reading to learn more about how to store fresh picked garlic from your garden, including garlic storage before planting more next year.
How to Store Garlic
There are a number of methods for storing garlic from the garden. Once harvested, you’ll need to decide how to store garlic based on your preferences and what you plan on doing with your crop.
Storing Garlic at Room Temperature
Spread some newspapers out in a location away from sunlight and in a cool, well-ventilated area. Allow the garlic to dry for at least two weeks, in a mesh bag or airy container, until the skins become paper like. This air-dry storage method preserves garlic for five to eight months.
How to Store Garlic by Freezing
Frozen garlic is perfect for soups and stews, and can be achieved one of three ways:
Chop garlic and wrap tightly in freezer wrap. Break or grate off as needed. Leave garlic unpeeled and freeze, removing cloves as needed. Freeze garlic by blending some garlic cloves with oil in a blender using two parts olive oil to one part garlic. Scrape out what is needed.
How to Store Fresh Picked Garlic by Drying
Garlic must be fresh, firm and bruise-free to dry using heat. Separate and peel cloves and cut lengthwise. Dry cloves at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for two hours and then at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) until dry. When garlic is crisp, it is ready. You can make garlic powder from fresh, dried garlic by blending until fine. To make garlic salt, you can add four parts sea salt to one part garlic salt and blend for a few seconds.
Storing Garlic in Vinegar or Wine
Peeled cloves can be stored in vinegar and wine by submerging them and storing in the refrigerator. Use garlic as long as there is no mold growth or surface yeast in the wine or vinegar. Do not store on the counter, as mold will develop.
Garlic Storage Before Planting
If you want to keep some of your harvest for planting next season, just harvest as usual and store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Now that you know how to store fresh picked garlic from the garden, you can decide the best way to store garlic based on your individual needs.
How to Store Garlic
There are a number of methods for storing garlic from the garden. Once harvested, you’ll need to decide how to store garlic based on your preferences and what you plan on doing with your crop.
Storing Garlic at Room Temperature
Spread some newspapers out in a location away from sunlight and in a cool, well-ventilated area. Allow the garlic to dry for at least two weeks, in a mesh bag or airy container, until the skins become paper like. This air-dry storage method preserves garlic for five to eight months.
How to Store Garlic by Freezing
Frozen garlic is perfect for soups and stews, and can be achieved one of three ways:
Chop garlic and wrap tightly in freezer wrap. Break or grate off as needed. Leave garlic unpeeled and freeze, removing cloves as needed. Freeze garlic by blending some garlic cloves with oil in a blender using two parts olive oil to one part garlic. Scrape out what is needed.
How to Store Fresh Picked Garlic by Drying
Garlic must be fresh, firm and bruise-free to dry using heat. Separate and peel cloves and cut lengthwise. Dry cloves at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for two hours and then at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) until dry. When garlic is crisp, it is ready. You can make garlic powder from fresh, dried garlic by blending until fine. To make garlic salt, you can add four parts sea salt to one part garlic salt and blend for a few seconds.
Storing Garlic in Vinegar or Wine
Peeled cloves can be stored in vinegar and wine by submerging them and storing in the refrigerator. Use garlic as long as there is no mold growth or surface yeast in the wine or vinegar. Do not store on the counter, as mold will develop.
Garlic Storage Before Planting
If you want to keep some of your harvest for planting next season, just harvest as usual and store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Now that you know how to store fresh picked garlic from the garden, you can decide the best way to store garlic based on your individual needs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most epicureans use garlic on an almost daily basis to enhance the flavor of our culinary creations. Another plant that can be used to impart a similar, though lighter, flavor of garlic is the elephant garlic. How do you grow elephant garlic and what are some of elephant garlic uses? Read on to learn more.
What is Elephant Garlic?
Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic
This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic
Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses
Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
What is Elephant Garlic?
Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic
This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic
Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses
Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Agastache, or anise hyssop, is an aromatic, culinary, cosmetic and medicinal herb. It has a long history of use and provides a splash of deepest blue across the perennial garden. Anise hyssop also adds a light licorice scent to the garden patch. This easy to grow herb gets woody square stems and may grow up to 3 feet tall. It needs no special attention and is, in fact, fairly self-maintaining once established. Light trimming will keep the plant looking its best. In this article, we will discuss when and how to prune Agastache for best results and a healthy plant.
Agastache Pruning Info
Many of our native perennial herbs are designed by nature to thrive without any human intervention. That being said, even a hardy specimen like anise hyssop can benefit from some minor meddling. Pruning anise hyssop when it is young in early spring will help force a bushier plant. Cutting back anise hyssop in late winter will allow the fresh new stems to come up unimpeded. The plant can also do quite well without any trimming but if you choose to cut, know when to prune Agastache for the most effective maintenance experience.
In most regions of North America, anise hyssop will brown and die back for winter. You may choose to leave it just as it is with the addition of a bit more mulch around the root zone, and no harm will come to this hardy plant. You may also want to remove the dead plant material just to tidy up the area and allow the plant’s new growth to shine through in spring. The choice is yours and neither is strictly wrong or right. It just depends upon what kind of landscape you like to maintain. Pruning anise hyssop will enhance its appearance, force new compact growth and may increase blooms if deadheaded.
When to Prune Agastache
Herbaceous plants do best if trimmed back in early spring just as new growth is about to appear. Anise hyssop can also be deadheaded and shaped lightly from spring until mid-summer. Suspend any trimming thereafter, as it may force tender new growth that can be damaged when cool weather appears. Such light pruning will allow you to remove spent flowers and prevent seed heads and prolific self-seeding. Dig up the plant and divide it every 3 to 5 years to help prevent center die-out and rejuvenate the plant.
How to Prune Agastache
How to prune Agastache is just as important as when to prune it. Always use sanitized pruning shears or loppers that are nice and sharp. To deadhead anise hyssop, simply cut off the dead flowering stems. If you wish to force new growth and shape the plant, cut back up to 1/3 of the woody material. Make cuts at a slight angle to force moisture away from the stem. Remove plant material just above a viable bud node. Heavily cutting back anise hyssop to rejuvenate the plant can be done by removing the stems to within 6 to 12 inches from the ground.
Agastache Pruning Info
Many of our native perennial herbs are designed by nature to thrive without any human intervention. That being said, even a hardy specimen like anise hyssop can benefit from some minor meddling. Pruning anise hyssop when it is young in early spring will help force a bushier plant. Cutting back anise hyssop in late winter will allow the fresh new stems to come up unimpeded. The plant can also do quite well without any trimming but if you choose to cut, know when to prune Agastache for the most effective maintenance experience.
In most regions of North America, anise hyssop will brown and die back for winter. You may choose to leave it just as it is with the addition of a bit more mulch around the root zone, and no harm will come to this hardy plant. You may also want to remove the dead plant material just to tidy up the area and allow the plant’s new growth to shine through in spring. The choice is yours and neither is strictly wrong or right. It just depends upon what kind of landscape you like to maintain. Pruning anise hyssop will enhance its appearance, force new compact growth and may increase blooms if deadheaded.
When to Prune Agastache
Herbaceous plants do best if trimmed back in early spring just as new growth is about to appear. Anise hyssop can also be deadheaded and shaped lightly from spring until mid-summer. Suspend any trimming thereafter, as it may force tender new growth that can be damaged when cool weather appears. Such light pruning will allow you to remove spent flowers and prevent seed heads and prolific self-seeding. Dig up the plant and divide it every 3 to 5 years to help prevent center die-out and rejuvenate the plant.
How to Prune Agastache
How to prune Agastache is just as important as when to prune it. Always use sanitized pruning shears or loppers that are nice and sharp. To deadhead anise hyssop, simply cut off the dead flowering stems. If you wish to force new growth and shape the plant, cut back up to 1/3 of the woody material. Make cuts at a slight angle to force moisture away from the stem. Remove plant material just above a viable bud node. Heavily cutting back anise hyssop to rejuvenate the plant can be done by removing the stems to within 6 to 12 inches from the ground.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
When you’re starting your indoor herb garden for convenient culinary use, be sure to include some indoor chervil plants. Growing chervil indoors provides you an abundance of the delicately scented, annual herb for cooking. Chervil is an integral part of the “fines herbes” blend (a combination of finely chopped herbs) used in French cooking. Growing the plant indoors is an optimum use of the herb, as it does not flourish outside in hot summer heat and sun. When growing chervil indoors or outside, plants prefer light shade and cool temperatures. Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) should not be confused with turnip rooted chervil. Rooted chervil is obscure in American and British food, but is still sometimes used in French cuisine. The chervil discussed here is similar in appearance to flat leaved parsley, with a more delicate flavor and demeanor. It is sometimes called gourmet’s parsley.
How to Grow Chervil Indoors
Seeds of indoor chervil plants should be planted into their permanent container or started in biodegradable seed starting pots that can go directly into rich, organic soil. The tap-rooted plant does not transplant well. Plant the small seeds shallowly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, to avoid the seeds rotting or damping off after germination.
Caring for Chervil Plants
Chervil plants reach 12 to 24 inches in height. Caring for indoor chervil plants should include frequent clipping of the new growth on the top of the plant. Clippings of the plant are best used fresh. Regular trimming of top leaves makes the plant bushier and more attractive and slows the tendency of growing chervil indoors to bolt. If bolting happens often when growing chervil indoors, start new plantings every few weeks to maintain a continuous supply. When plants seem to be going to seed quickly, decrease the sunlight and move the container to a cooler location. Use fresh seed for the best germination rate when growing indoor chervil plants. Companion plants for growing chervil indoors can include tarragon, chives and parsley, also used in the French fine herbes mix. Locate indoor chervil plants in the container so they can be shaded by the other herbs.
Uses for Indoor Chervil Plants
Growing chervil indoors, in or near the kitchen, makes it convenient to use the herb in many dishes you may be preparing. Now that you’ve learned how to grow chervil indoors, use clippings often. The frilly leaves of chervil plants may be finely chopped and added to omelets or other egg dishes. Chervil flavors young vegetables, soups, salads, casseroles and a variety of other recipes.
How to Grow Chervil Indoors
Seeds of indoor chervil plants should be planted into their permanent container or started in biodegradable seed starting pots that can go directly into rich, organic soil. The tap-rooted plant does not transplant well. Plant the small seeds shallowly. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, to avoid the seeds rotting or damping off after germination.
Caring for Chervil Plants
Chervil plants reach 12 to 24 inches in height. Caring for indoor chervil plants should include frequent clipping of the new growth on the top of the plant. Clippings of the plant are best used fresh. Regular trimming of top leaves makes the plant bushier and more attractive and slows the tendency of growing chervil indoors to bolt. If bolting happens often when growing chervil indoors, start new plantings every few weeks to maintain a continuous supply. When plants seem to be going to seed quickly, decrease the sunlight and move the container to a cooler location. Use fresh seed for the best germination rate when growing indoor chervil plants. Companion plants for growing chervil indoors can include tarragon, chives and parsley, also used in the French fine herbes mix. Locate indoor chervil plants in the container so they can be shaded by the other herbs.
Uses for Indoor Chervil Plants
Growing chervil indoors, in or near the kitchen, makes it convenient to use the herb in many dishes you may be preparing. Now that you’ve learned how to grow chervil indoors, use clippings often. The frilly leaves of chervil plants may be finely chopped and added to omelets or other egg dishes. Chervil flavors young vegetables, soups, salads, casseroles and a variety of other recipes.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Chervil is one of the lesser known herbs that you can grow in your garden. Because it is not often grown, many people wonder, “What is chervil?” Let’s take a look at the chervil herb, how to keep chervil growing in your garden and how to use chervil.
What is Chervil Herb?
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb that is best known for being a “sweet” herb. Many people grow chervil to be used in desserts and drinks. The flavor is often described as a combination of parsley and licorice. The chervil herb is also known as gourmet parsley or French parsley.
Best Conditions to Grow Chervil
Chervil is one of the few herbs that grows best in shade and moist soil. Much like cilantro, chervil will bolt quickly in heat, so keep it away from full sun. Chervil also prefers rich soil.
Start Chervil Growing from Seed
Chervil is a delicate plant and does not like to be disturbed once it starts growing. Because of this, chervil should be sown directly where it will be growing in the garden. The best time when to plant chervil is after all threat of frost has passed. Chervil herb can tolerate some frost, but grows best in the cool season right after frost has passed.
To keep chervil growing consistently, you’ll need to do successive plantings. As you grow chervil, start new seeds about every two weeks to ensure continuous harvest until the end of the season. We hope that now that you know what is chervil and when to plant chervil, you will start growing chervil in your garden. You will be tastily rewarded.
What is Chervil Herb?
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb that is best known for being a “sweet” herb. Many people grow chervil to be used in desserts and drinks. The flavor is often described as a combination of parsley and licorice. The chervil herb is also known as gourmet parsley or French parsley.
Best Conditions to Grow Chervil
Chervil is one of the few herbs that grows best in shade and moist soil. Much like cilantro, chervil will bolt quickly in heat, so keep it away from full sun. Chervil also prefers rich soil.
Start Chervil Growing from Seed
Chervil is a delicate plant and does not like to be disturbed once it starts growing. Because of this, chervil should be sown directly where it will be growing in the garden. The best time when to plant chervil is after all threat of frost has passed. Chervil herb can tolerate some frost, but grows best in the cool season right after frost has passed.
To keep chervil growing consistently, you’ll need to do successive plantings. As you grow chervil, start new seeds about every two weeks to ensure continuous harvest until the end of the season. We hope that now that you know what is chervil and when to plant chervil, you will start growing chervil in your garden. You will be tastily rewarded.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Burdock is a native of Eurasia but has quickly become naturalized in North America. The plant is an herbaceous biennial with a long history of edible and medicinal use by native people. For gardeners who wish to try growing burdock plants, seed is available from numerous sources and the plant is adaptable to any light level and most soils. This is an easy plant to grow either as an herbal medicine or as an interesting vegetable. As a part of your medicinal or edible garden, very little burdock plant care is necessary once established.
About Burdock Plants
Burdock occurs in undisturbed sites where the plant forms a rosette the first year and a flowering spike the second. Both the roots and young leaves and shoots are edible. The plant is easy to grow and can produce roots up to 2 feet long in 100 days or less. Gardeners who want to know how to grow burdock should know that it is easier to harvest roots if planted in sandy, loose soil.
Burdock may reach 2 to 9 feet in height and produces rough, sticky burred fruits. From these fruits comes its scientific name, Articum lappa. In Greek, ‘arktos’ means bear and ‘lappos’ means seize. This refers to the fruits or seed capsules which are barbed with spurs that grab onto animal fur and clothing. In fact, from these fruit, it is said the idea from Velcro was developed. The flowers are bright pinkish-purple and similar to many thistle species. The leaves are broad and lightly lobed. The plant will self-seed readily and can become a nuisance if not managed. This should pose no problem if you are continually deadheading the plant or if you intend to use it as a root vegetable. Another way to contain the plant is by growing burdock in pots.
Burdock Plant Uses
Among the many burdock plant uses is in the treatment of scalp and skin problems. It is also known to be a liver treatment and stimulates the digestive system. It is a detoxifying herb and diuretic and has also been used as an antidote in some cases of poisoning. In China, the seeds are used to treat colds and cough. Medical uses of burdock stem from the plant’s use in tinctures and decoctions resulting in salves, lotions and other topical applications. It is also a popular food plant, known as gobo, in Asian cooking. Roots are eaten either raw or cooked, and leaves and stems are used like spinach. Indigenous Americans were growing burdock plants in their own vegetable gardens before the country was settled by Europeans.
How to Grow Burdock
Burdock prefers loamy soil and a neutral pH in areas with average water. Seeds should be stratified and germinate at 80 to 90 % when sown directly in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/8 inch under the soil and keep evenly moist. Germination takes place in 1-2 weeks. Once seed has germinated, young plants grow quickly but it takes some time to establish a taproot of sufficient size to harvest. Plants should be spaced at least 18 inches apart. For the most part, burdock has no significant pest or disease issues. Continued burdock plant care is minimal but steps may have to be taken to manage the spread of the plant. Harvest leaves when young and tender and wait a year before taking the root.
About Burdock Plants
Burdock occurs in undisturbed sites where the plant forms a rosette the first year and a flowering spike the second. Both the roots and young leaves and shoots are edible. The plant is easy to grow and can produce roots up to 2 feet long in 100 days or less. Gardeners who want to know how to grow burdock should know that it is easier to harvest roots if planted in sandy, loose soil.
Burdock may reach 2 to 9 feet in height and produces rough, sticky burred fruits. From these fruits comes its scientific name, Articum lappa. In Greek, ‘arktos’ means bear and ‘lappos’ means seize. This refers to the fruits or seed capsules which are barbed with spurs that grab onto animal fur and clothing. In fact, from these fruit, it is said the idea from Velcro was developed. The flowers are bright pinkish-purple and similar to many thistle species. The leaves are broad and lightly lobed. The plant will self-seed readily and can become a nuisance if not managed. This should pose no problem if you are continually deadheading the plant or if you intend to use it as a root vegetable. Another way to contain the plant is by growing burdock in pots.
Burdock Plant Uses
Among the many burdock plant uses is in the treatment of scalp and skin problems. It is also known to be a liver treatment and stimulates the digestive system. It is a detoxifying herb and diuretic and has also been used as an antidote in some cases of poisoning. In China, the seeds are used to treat colds and cough. Medical uses of burdock stem from the plant’s use in tinctures and decoctions resulting in salves, lotions and other topical applications. It is also a popular food plant, known as gobo, in Asian cooking. Roots are eaten either raw or cooked, and leaves and stems are used like spinach. Indigenous Americans were growing burdock plants in their own vegetable gardens before the country was settled by Europeans.
How to Grow Burdock
Burdock prefers loamy soil and a neutral pH in areas with average water. Seeds should be stratified and germinate at 80 to 90 % when sown directly in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant seeds 1/8 inch under the soil and keep evenly moist. Germination takes place in 1-2 weeks. Once seed has germinated, young plants grow quickly but it takes some time to establish a taproot of sufficient size to harvest. Plants should be spaced at least 18 inches apart. For the most part, burdock has no significant pest or disease issues. Continued burdock plant care is minimal but steps may have to be taken to manage the spread of the plant. Harvest leaves when young and tender and wait a year before taking the root.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
You don’t need many excuses to grow borage. With its brilliant blue starry flowers and charismatic fuzzy stems, borage is an herb with tons of garden appeal. This plant has a rich history of use as an herbal remedy but you might also consider borage cover crops to enrich soil. Using borage as green manure allows the nutrients brought up by the plant’s deep taproot to be dispersed into the upper areas of soil when the plant composts. Borage returns high nitrogen to the soil when it is tilled back in. The result is healthy soil, rich in nutrients and deeply aerated earth.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While basil is a commonly grown herb outdoors, this easy-care plant can also be grown indoors. In fact, you can grow basil inside much the same as you would in the garden. This wonderfully fragrant herb can be grown for use in the kitchen, making aromatic oils, or simply for aesthetic purposes. Let’s look at how to grow basil indoors.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
I grow basil every year in a container on my deck, near enough to the kitchen to easily grab a few sprigs to liven up almost any culinary creation. Generally, I use it so frequently that the plant doesn’t get a chance to flower, but every so often I am remiss in its use and, voila, I end up with tiny delicate blooms on basil. The question is then, should basil be allowed to flower and if so, can you eat basil flowers?
Basil Plant Flowering
If your basil plant has flowered, the question of what to do depends on what you are growing the herb for. Basil is a member of the mint family, Lamiaceae, with over 40 known varieties. Most folks grow it for its aromatic and flavorful foliage, redolent of mint and clove with slight peppery notes.
Although basil is most often associated with the Mediterranean or Italy, the herb actually originated in Asia — Thailand, Vietnam and parts of India — where it is often grown as a perennial. Because of this broad connection, basil can be found in almost every cuisine on the planet. Among the vast varieties of basil, Ocimum basilicum, or sweet basil, is the most commonly grown. Ocimum is derived from the Greek meaning “to be fragrant” and thus, is evocative of this plant’s delicious foliage. Basil leaves, whether sweet basil or purple, spicy Thai or citrusy lemon basil, all contain essential oils responsible for their unique flavor nuances. The foliage is easily bruised, releasing the magnificent perfume. So then, should basil be allowed to flower?
Blooms on Basil
So, if your basil plant has flowered, is this a good thing or a bad thing? If you are cultivating basil strictly for its leaves, it is best to remove the flowers. Pinching basil blooms back will allow all of the plant’s energy to stay focused on foliage production, creating a bushier plant with more leaves and maintaining higher levels of essential oils in the leaves. Leaving the flowers on basil plants tends to engender a straggly looking specimen with fewer leaves to harvest. That said, if you have also been remiss in pinching basil blooms, just snip them off and, as they are quite pretty, put them in a bud vase to enjoy on the window sill. Or, you can also sprinkle them on a salad or over pasta to enliven the dish because, yes, basil flowers are edible. They also make great tea! You can expect the blooms to taste similar to the leaves, but with a milder flavor.
If, however, your intent when cultivating basil is for a big batch of pesto, you’ll want to pinch back the herb to encourage leaf growth. Pinch off the flower buds as soon as they emerge. Basil will usually need to be pruned every two to three weeks and it’s okay to go at it. The plant can tolerate a severe pruning which will, in fact, promote growth. Lastly, fertilize your basil sparingly, as it will actually decrease the fragrant essential oils, and harvest the leaves in the early morning when they are at their peak. Don’t overreact if the plant blossoms — just pinch back the blooms or, better yet, cut back half the foliage. Use both for dinner and the plant will double in size within a couple of weeks, healthier and bushier than before.
Basil Plant Flowering
If your basil plant has flowered, the question of what to do depends on what you are growing the herb for. Basil is a member of the mint family, Lamiaceae, with over 40 known varieties. Most folks grow it for its aromatic and flavorful foliage, redolent of mint and clove with slight peppery notes.
Although basil is most often associated with the Mediterranean or Italy, the herb actually originated in Asia — Thailand, Vietnam and parts of India — where it is often grown as a perennial. Because of this broad connection, basil can be found in almost every cuisine on the planet. Among the vast varieties of basil, Ocimum basilicum, or sweet basil, is the most commonly grown. Ocimum is derived from the Greek meaning “to be fragrant” and thus, is evocative of this plant’s delicious foliage. Basil leaves, whether sweet basil or purple, spicy Thai or citrusy lemon basil, all contain essential oils responsible for their unique flavor nuances. The foliage is easily bruised, releasing the magnificent perfume. So then, should basil be allowed to flower?
Blooms on Basil
So, if your basil plant has flowered, is this a good thing or a bad thing? If you are cultivating basil strictly for its leaves, it is best to remove the flowers. Pinching basil blooms back will allow all of the plant’s energy to stay focused on foliage production, creating a bushier plant with more leaves and maintaining higher levels of essential oils in the leaves. Leaving the flowers on basil plants tends to engender a straggly looking specimen with fewer leaves to harvest. That said, if you have also been remiss in pinching basil blooms, just snip them off and, as they are quite pretty, put them in a bud vase to enjoy on the window sill. Or, you can also sprinkle them on a salad or over pasta to enliven the dish because, yes, basil flowers are edible. They also make great tea! You can expect the blooms to taste similar to the leaves, but with a milder flavor.
If, however, your intent when cultivating basil is for a big batch of pesto, you’ll want to pinch back the herb to encourage leaf growth. Pinch off the flower buds as soon as they emerge. Basil will usually need to be pruned every two to three weeks and it’s okay to go at it. The plant can tolerate a severe pruning which will, in fact, promote growth. Lastly, fertilize your basil sparingly, as it will actually decrease the fragrant essential oils, and harvest the leaves in the early morning when they are at their peak. Don’t overreact if the plant blossoms — just pinch back the blooms or, better yet, cut back half the foliage. Use both for dinner and the plant will double in size within a couple of weeks, healthier and bushier than before.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Sarracenia, or pitcher plants, are native to North America. They are classic carnivorous plants that use trapped insects as part of their nutrient needs. These specimens need moist conditions and are often found near water. Most varieties are not extremely cold hardy, which makes pitcher plant care over winter very important. During pitcher plant dormancy, some exposure to chilly temperatures is necessary but most are not hardy below USDA zone 7. Over wintering pitcher plants in colder zones will require moving the plants or providing them with protection from the cold weather.
A Word About Pitcher Plants
Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter
Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter?
This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
A Word About Pitcher Plants
Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter
Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter?
This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytic plants are those that grow on vertical surfaces such as another plant, a rock, or any other structure the epiphyte can attach to. Epiphytes are not parasitic but do use other plants as support. Epiphytes for the home interior are mounted, generally on bark, wood or cork. It’s creative and fun to learn how to mount epiphytic plants. These varieties add a unique, tropical note to the home and epiphyte plant care is easy and carefree.
Epiphyte Mounting Tips
There are 22,000 species of epiphytes around the world. Many of these are becoming common houseplants due to their unique beauty but also their ease of care. Mounting these plants is the best way to view them, provides the plant the aerial situation it requires and assists in epiphyte plant care. Choose any mount that is porous and is free of chemicals and salts. Now it is time to take a few epiphyte mounting tips and get creative. The pros choose their mounting medium carefully. This is especially true of orchid collectors. Orchids tend to grow on specific species of tree and it is important to try to match that wood whenever possible. Usually, this is not the case, however, so a benign substitute is chosen. Your choice of mounting medium will depend upon the size of your epiphyte, the weight of the medium and durability. For the most part, driftwood, cork and large pieces of hardwood or bark will provide adequate homes for the plants. Your mounting material is your next choice. Use pantyhose, fishing line, wire, twine or even hot glue.
How to Mount Epiphytic Plants
Epiphyte growing and mounting can become addictive. The bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, staghorn fern and other varieties of epiphyte will produce a unique collection. Any of the plants that have minimal roots or aerial roots are good candidates for mounting. The best medium for any type of plant will vary according to its native region; however, an overall good medium to cradle root systems is sphagnum moss. Moisten the moss and pack it around the roots. You can use a bit of coconut coir around that if you wish and then bind the whole mass to the plant with twine.
Epiphyte Growing and Mounting
You should have all the parts that you need together now. Take your plant and wrap the roots in the moistened sphagnum moss. Bind this to the base of the plant and then take your mounting piece and attach the base of the plant. Use glue, twine or whatever method you choose. Take care to hide any string in the foliage of the plant for best appearance. Epiphytes need more moisture than plants in pots. Provide water two to four times a week, depending upon how hot and dry your home is and what time of year. In summer, occasionally submerge the plant in water for an hour if it is not getting enough moisture. If your humidity is low, spray them with water occasionally. Place the plant where it gets bright but indirect light. Fertilize in spring with a dilution of a 10-5-5 that is low in copper.
Epiphyte Mounting Tips
There are 22,000 species of epiphytes around the world. Many of these are becoming common houseplants due to their unique beauty but also their ease of care. Mounting these plants is the best way to view them, provides the plant the aerial situation it requires and assists in epiphyte plant care. Choose any mount that is porous and is free of chemicals and salts. Now it is time to take a few epiphyte mounting tips and get creative. The pros choose their mounting medium carefully. This is especially true of orchid collectors. Orchids tend to grow on specific species of tree and it is important to try to match that wood whenever possible. Usually, this is not the case, however, so a benign substitute is chosen. Your choice of mounting medium will depend upon the size of your epiphyte, the weight of the medium and durability. For the most part, driftwood, cork and large pieces of hardwood or bark will provide adequate homes for the plants. Your mounting material is your next choice. Use pantyhose, fishing line, wire, twine or even hot glue.
How to Mount Epiphytic Plants
Epiphyte growing and mounting can become addictive. The bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, staghorn fern and other varieties of epiphyte will produce a unique collection. Any of the plants that have minimal roots or aerial roots are good candidates for mounting. The best medium for any type of plant will vary according to its native region; however, an overall good medium to cradle root systems is sphagnum moss. Moisten the moss and pack it around the roots. You can use a bit of coconut coir around that if you wish and then bind the whole mass to the plant with twine.
Epiphyte Growing and Mounting
You should have all the parts that you need together now. Take your plant and wrap the roots in the moistened sphagnum moss. Bind this to the base of the plant and then take your mounting piece and attach the base of the plant. Use glue, twine or whatever method you choose. Take care to hide any string in the foliage of the plant for best appearance. Epiphytes need more moisture than plants in pots. Provide water two to four times a week, depending upon how hot and dry your home is and what time of year. In summer, occasionally submerge the plant in water for an hour if it is not getting enough moisture. If your humidity is low, spray them with water occasionally. Place the plant where it gets bright but indirect light. Fertilize in spring with a dilution of a 10-5-5 that is low in copper.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can reproduce both asexually and sexually. Asexual reproduction does not use seeds and generates exact duplicates, or clones, of the parent rose. If you want to create new varieties of roses, you must grow them from seeds instead of utilizing asexual reproduction methods.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Aphids are one of the most common insects known to attack roses. The most common variety is the rose aphid (Macrosiphum rosae). You can use common ingredients in your home to make a spray to stop the attack of the rose aphid and other members of its aphid family.
First Defense
Start with a first line of defense. Give your rose bushes a medium to hard spray of water from your garden hose to get rid of the aphids.
Soap Spray
Make a spray that only contains dish detergent and water. Use a ratio of 2 tbsp. of dish detergent for every gallon of water. The ingredients should work to dry out the aphids and kill them.
Basil Tea Spray
Take a 1-gallon container and fill it with water and basil clippings. Let the container "steep" for a week. Add 2 tbsp. of liquid detergent and fill a spray bottle. Store and use this spray as a deterrent and preventive measure -- versus a solution once roses are infested.
Kitchen Cupboard Combination Spray
Use common "kitchen cupboard" ingredients to make a spray. Use a spray bottle and mix one-quarter tsp. of vegetable oil, one half tsp. of dish detergent and 1 qt. of water. Spray the roses, continually, every ten days.
First Defense
Start with a first line of defense. Give your rose bushes a medium to hard spray of water from your garden hose to get rid of the aphids.
Soap Spray
Make a spray that only contains dish detergent and water. Use a ratio of 2 tbsp. of dish detergent for every gallon of water. The ingredients should work to dry out the aphids and kill them.
Basil Tea Spray
Take a 1-gallon container and fill it with water and basil clippings. Let the container "steep" for a week. Add 2 tbsp. of liquid detergent and fill a spray bottle. Store and use this spray as a deterrent and preventive measure -- versus a solution once roses are infested.
Kitchen Cupboard Combination Spray
Use common "kitchen cupboard" ingredients to make a spray. Use a spray bottle and mix one-quarter tsp. of vegetable oil, one half tsp. of dish detergent and 1 qt. of water. Spray the roses, continually, every ten days.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Broad-spectrum insecticides or pesticides are formulated to kill many kinds of pests with the use of one product. Concentrated products are much less expensive to use than non-concentrated products and can be applied with a compression garden sprayer. Spray tree branches with an insecticide or pesticide when little wind is present; otherwise, the spray will drift. Wear the correct protective gear to prevent the product from getting on your skin and causing irritation.
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, socks, enclosed-toe shoes, safety glasses and waterproof gloves. Wear a hardhat or other protective headgear that is waterproof. Pesticide and insecticide chemicals cause irritation to skin and mucous membranes. So all areas of your body should be protected from them.
Step 2
Open the lid of a compression garden sprayer counterclockwise and remove it. Add water from a garden hose to the sprayer tank's one-half full mark.
Step 3
Add pesticide or insecticide concentrate to the sprayer tank by using a plastic measuring spoon and by following the amount to use listed on the pesticide's or insecticide's label directions.
Step 4
Pick up the sprayer tank, and swirl it in a circle while filling the tank to its full mark with water from the garden hose.
Step 5
Screw the lid clockwise onto the garden sprayer. Pump the handle on top of the sprayer. Pumping the handle adds air pressure to the sprayer's contents.
Step 6
Walk to the tree that needs the pesticide or insecticide treatment. Stand just beyond the tree's drip line to avoid chemical runoff onto yourself. The drip line is below the tips of the tree's outermost branches. Squeeze the application wand on the sprayer to dispense the pesticide.
Step 7
Spray the tree's canopy from its highest point, including all branches and leaves, to the areas directly in front of you. Apply the spray to all sides of branches and leaves.
Step 8
Move to one side, and spray the tree in the same manner as before to wet all its surfaces thoroughly with the spray. Continue to move and spray until you are standing at the point where you started spraying the tree. The starting point of coverage should be visible by the spray's moisture on branches and leaves.
Step 9
Walk around the tree slowly as you spray the tree's entire trunk, starting at the top from which the lowest branches attach and working down to the ground.
Step 1
Put on a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, socks, enclosed-toe shoes, safety glasses and waterproof gloves. Wear a hardhat or other protective headgear that is waterproof. Pesticide and insecticide chemicals cause irritation to skin and mucous membranes. So all areas of your body should be protected from them.
Step 2
Open the lid of a compression garden sprayer counterclockwise and remove it. Add water from a garden hose to the sprayer tank's one-half full mark.
Step 3
Add pesticide or insecticide concentrate to the sprayer tank by using a plastic measuring spoon and by following the amount to use listed on the pesticide's or insecticide's label directions.
Step 4
Pick up the sprayer tank, and swirl it in a circle while filling the tank to its full mark with water from the garden hose.
Step 5
Screw the lid clockwise onto the garden sprayer. Pump the handle on top of the sprayer. Pumping the handle adds air pressure to the sprayer's contents.
Step 6
Walk to the tree that needs the pesticide or insecticide treatment. Stand just beyond the tree's drip line to avoid chemical runoff onto yourself. The drip line is below the tips of the tree's outermost branches. Squeeze the application wand on the sprayer to dispense the pesticide.
Step 7
Spray the tree's canopy from its highest point, including all branches and leaves, to the areas directly in front of you. Apply the spray to all sides of branches and leaves.
Step 8
Move to one side, and spray the tree in the same manner as before to wet all its surfaces thoroughly with the spray. Continue to move and spray until you are standing at the point where you started spraying the tree. The starting point of coverage should be visible by the spray's moisture on branches and leaves.
Step 9
Walk around the tree slowly as you spray the tree's entire trunk, starting at the top from which the lowest branches attach and working down to the ground.
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