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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Drought prone areas and sites with low maintenance needs will benefit from the use of ornamental grass. One of the best series in recent introduction are the Lomandra grasses. The original grasses hail from Australia but have been developed in New Zealand to include numerous cultivars. Wintertime wet feet and dry summer conditions simulate the best Lomandra growing conditions. Best of all, the grasses can be cold hardy into USDA zones 7 to 11. As an excellent visual enhancement to the garden, Lomandra grass can’t be beat in most of our temperate to warm climates.
Lomandra Information
Nothing beats the sway and swish of ornamental grasses in the landscape. Not only are they acoustically appealing but their dimension and movement send visitors into a pleasant swoon. One of the nicest grasses for dry to wet landscapes is Lomandra. Its main attraction comes with Lomandra maintenance, which can swing from outright neglect to brutal shearing. More lush growth and a fuller plant will result from average watering and feeding, but the plant has an attractive natural aspect even when left to its own devices.
Exactly what is Lomandra grass? Lomandra is a native Australian grass that is also called basket grass or spiny-head mat-rush. Lomandra growing conditions vary from sandy to moist soils in swamps, mountains, creek banks, forests and open hillsides. Lomandra grass has a clumping habit with green, flat blades and a height and spread of about three feet.
Among the more interesting tidbits of Lomandra information is its traditional use by Aborigines to make nets and baskets, and one species was also used as a food. There are nearly 10 Lomandra grass varieties available on the market. Almost any of these would be suitable as ornamental specimens in the warm region garden. As an added bonus, caring for Lomandra grass is effortless and plants have few disease or insect problems.
Lomandra Varieties
The largest of the Lomandra is Katie Belles. It grows nicely in bright sun or dappled shade and produces prolific creamy white inflorescences. Lomandra ‘Katrina Deluxe’ has fragrant flowers and a compact habit while ‘Nyalla’ has blue foliage and yellow flowers. A totally different appearance is brought by Lomandra cylindrica ‘Lime Wave,’ which has chartreuse foliage and bright golden blooms. Lomandra ‘Tanika’ is known for its graceful, arching foliage. Dwarf Lomandra produces perfect tufts of green with orange-yellow inflorescences. There are many more varieties available, and this adaptable grass is being developed to extend hardiness.Caring for Lomandra Grass
Most of these grasses are suited to full sun or lightly shaded locations. The foliage color may change slightly depending upon the exposure to sunlight, but the health of the plant is not affected. Once established, the grass is tolerant of drought but for thick clumps of glossy foliage, occasional watering is an important part of Lomandra maintenance. f grasses get damaged due to frost, wind or time, simply cut them back to 6 to 8 inches from the ground and the foliage will spring back beautifully.
Almost any area of the garden can provide perfect Lomandra growing conditions. This versatile plant is even comfortable in containers and makes a perfect low border, outline for a pathway or mass planting to replace traditional sod. Lomandra grass is an outstanding landscape performer with a tough nature and elegant, transformative foliage.
Lomandra Information
Nothing beats the sway and swish of ornamental grasses in the landscape. Not only are they acoustically appealing but their dimension and movement send visitors into a pleasant swoon. One of the nicest grasses for dry to wet landscapes is Lomandra. Its main attraction comes with Lomandra maintenance, which can swing from outright neglect to brutal shearing. More lush growth and a fuller plant will result from average watering and feeding, but the plant has an attractive natural aspect even when left to its own devices.
Exactly what is Lomandra grass? Lomandra is a native Australian grass that is also called basket grass or spiny-head mat-rush. Lomandra growing conditions vary from sandy to moist soils in swamps, mountains, creek banks, forests and open hillsides. Lomandra grass has a clumping habit with green, flat blades and a height and spread of about three feet.
Among the more interesting tidbits of Lomandra information is its traditional use by Aborigines to make nets and baskets, and one species was also used as a food. There are nearly 10 Lomandra grass varieties available on the market. Almost any of these would be suitable as ornamental specimens in the warm region garden. As an added bonus, caring for Lomandra grass is effortless and plants have few disease or insect problems.
Lomandra Varieties
The largest of the Lomandra is Katie Belles. It grows nicely in bright sun or dappled shade and produces prolific creamy white inflorescences. Lomandra ‘Katrina Deluxe’ has fragrant flowers and a compact habit while ‘Nyalla’ has blue foliage and yellow flowers. A totally different appearance is brought by Lomandra cylindrica ‘Lime Wave,’ which has chartreuse foliage and bright golden blooms. Lomandra ‘Tanika’ is known for its graceful, arching foliage. Dwarf Lomandra produces perfect tufts of green with orange-yellow inflorescences. There are many more varieties available, and this adaptable grass is being developed to extend hardiness.Caring for Lomandra Grass
Most of these grasses are suited to full sun or lightly shaded locations. The foliage color may change slightly depending upon the exposure to sunlight, but the health of the plant is not affected. Once established, the grass is tolerant of drought but for thick clumps of glossy foliage, occasional watering is an important part of Lomandra maintenance. f grasses get damaged due to frost, wind or time, simply cut them back to 6 to 8 inches from the ground and the foliage will spring back beautifully.
Almost any area of the garden can provide perfect Lomandra growing conditions. This versatile plant is even comfortable in containers and makes a perfect low border, outline for a pathway or mass planting to replace traditional sod. Lomandra grass is an outstanding landscape performer with a tough nature and elegant, transformative foliage.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Peyote (Lophophora williamsii) is a spineless cactus with a rich history of ritual use in the First Nation culture. In the United States the plant is illegal to cultivate or eat unless you are a member of the Native American Church. The plant is considered poisonous by U.S. officials but First Nations people use it as a sacrament and pathway to religious and personal enlightenment. While growing peyote is not allowed unless you are a member of the NAC, it is a fascinating plant with attributes worth learning about. There are, however, peyote plant look-a-likes you can grow at home that will satisfy your urge to cultivate this cute little cactus without breaking the law.
What is the Peyote Cactus?
Peyote cactus is a small plant native to the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and northeastern Mexico. It has numerous psychoactive chemicals, chiefly mescaline, which is used in religious ceremonies to elevate awareness and cause a mental and physical high. Peyote cultivation is a time-consuming process, as the plant can take up to 13 years to mature. In any event, growing peyote is illegal unless you are a member of the church and have filed the proper paperwork. The bulk of the plant is underground where thick, wide roots form, looking much like parsnips or carrots. The upper part of the cactus grows about an inch out of the ground in a rounded habit with a diameter of less than 2 inches. It is greenish blue with 5 to 13 ribs and fuzzy hairs. Peyote plants often have tubercles, which give the ribs a spiral appearance. Occasionally, the plant will produce pink flowers which become club-shaped, edible pink berries. The plant is considered endangered due to over harvesting and land development. A similar looking cactus, Astrophytum asterias, or star cactus, is legal to grow, but it is also endangered. Star cactus has only 8 ribs and a fibrous root system. It is also called the sand dollar or sea urchin cactus. Star cactus requires similar care to that of peyote and other cacti.
Additional Peyote Plant Info
The part of peyote that is used for ritual is the small cushion-like upper part. The larger root is left in the ground to regenerate a new crown. The upper part is dried or used fresh and is called a peyote button. These are generally no larger than a quarter once dried and the dosage is 6 to 15 buttons. Older peyote plants produce offsets and develop into larger clumps of many plants. The cactus has 9 narcotic alkaloids of the isoquinoline series. The bulk of the effect is visual hallucinations, but auditory and olfactory alterations are also present. Church members use the buttons as a sacrament and in religious teaching sessions. Care of peyote cacti is similar to most cacti. Grow them in a half and half mix of coconut husk and pumice. Restrict water after seedlings establish and keep the plants in indirect sun where temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 32 C.).
A few words on peyote cultivation
An interesting bit of peyote plant info is the form of documentation necessary to grow it. You must be in Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oregon or Colorado. You must be a member of the NAC and at least 25% First Nations. You are required to write a Declaration of Religious Belief, get it notarized and file it with the county Recorder’s Office. You must post a copy of this document above the location where plants will be grown. Only the 5 states listed allow church members to grow the plant. It is illegal in all other states and is federally unlawful. In other words, it is not a good idea to try to grow it unless you are a documented member of the Native American Church. For the rest of us, the star cactus will provide similar visual appeal and growth habit, without the danger of jail time.
What is the Peyote Cactus?
Peyote cactus is a small plant native to the Rio Grande Valley of Texas and northeastern Mexico. It has numerous psychoactive chemicals, chiefly mescaline, which is used in religious ceremonies to elevate awareness and cause a mental and physical high. Peyote cultivation is a time-consuming process, as the plant can take up to 13 years to mature. In any event, growing peyote is illegal unless you are a member of the church and have filed the proper paperwork. The bulk of the plant is underground where thick, wide roots form, looking much like parsnips or carrots. The upper part of the cactus grows about an inch out of the ground in a rounded habit with a diameter of less than 2 inches. It is greenish blue with 5 to 13 ribs and fuzzy hairs. Peyote plants often have tubercles, which give the ribs a spiral appearance. Occasionally, the plant will produce pink flowers which become club-shaped, edible pink berries. The plant is considered endangered due to over harvesting and land development. A similar looking cactus, Astrophytum asterias, or star cactus, is legal to grow, but it is also endangered. Star cactus has only 8 ribs and a fibrous root system. It is also called the sand dollar or sea urchin cactus. Star cactus requires similar care to that of peyote and other cacti.
Additional Peyote Plant Info
The part of peyote that is used for ritual is the small cushion-like upper part. The larger root is left in the ground to regenerate a new crown. The upper part is dried or used fresh and is called a peyote button. These are generally no larger than a quarter once dried and the dosage is 6 to 15 buttons. Older peyote plants produce offsets and develop into larger clumps of many plants. The cactus has 9 narcotic alkaloids of the isoquinoline series. The bulk of the effect is visual hallucinations, but auditory and olfactory alterations are also present. Church members use the buttons as a sacrament and in religious teaching sessions. Care of peyote cacti is similar to most cacti. Grow them in a half and half mix of coconut husk and pumice. Restrict water after seedlings establish and keep the plants in indirect sun where temperatures are between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 32 C.).
A few words on peyote cultivation
An interesting bit of peyote plant info is the form of documentation necessary to grow it. You must be in Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Oregon or Colorado. You must be a member of the NAC and at least 25% First Nations. You are required to write a Declaration of Religious Belief, get it notarized and file it with the county Recorder’s Office. You must post a copy of this document above the location where plants will be grown. Only the 5 states listed allow church members to grow the plant. It is illegal in all other states and is federally unlawful. In other words, it is not a good idea to try to grow it unless you are a documented member of the Native American Church. For the rest of us, the star cactus will provide similar visual appeal and growth habit, without the danger of jail time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The attractive, feathery fronds of parrot feather plants (Myriophyllum aquaticum) often encourage the water gardener to use it in a bed or border. The delicate appearance of growing parrot feather compliments other foliage in your water feature or bog garden.
Parrot Feather Information
Stop: before you make the mistake of planting this seemingly innocent specimen in your landscape, you should know that parrot feather information indicates that these plants are highly invasive. Once planted, they have the potential to readily escape cultivation and overwhelm native plants. This has already happened in numerous areas in the United States. Only female specimens of the plant are known to grow in this country and multiply from root division and plant pieces in a process called fragmentation. Tiny bits of the plant have moved through waterways, on boats and located themselves aggressively in many areas. Several states have laws that prohibit growing parrot feather.
Growing Parrot Feather
Growing parrot feather began innocently enough in the United States. The South and Central American native came to the country in the 1800’s to decorate indoor and outdoor aquariums. The attractive, feathery plumes of parrot feather plants took hold and began to choke out native plants. If you choose to use parrot feather plants in your pond or water garden, keep in mind that parrot feather plant care will consist of keeping the plant under control. Keep growing parrot feather in bounds by only using in lined ponds and water features or in containers.
Parrot feather plants grow in fresh water areas from rhizomatous roots. Cutting the plant encourages it to grow, so control can be complicated if it grows to restrict your drainage pipe or begins to destroy beneficial algae. Aquatic herbicides are sometimes effective in parrot feather plant care and control. If you choose to grow parrot feather plants in or around your water feature or pond, make sure it is legal to grow it in your area. Plant only in a controlled situation, such as a container or indoor water feature.
Parrot Feather Information
Stop: before you make the mistake of planting this seemingly innocent specimen in your landscape, you should know that parrot feather information indicates that these plants are highly invasive. Once planted, they have the potential to readily escape cultivation and overwhelm native plants. This has already happened in numerous areas in the United States. Only female specimens of the plant are known to grow in this country and multiply from root division and plant pieces in a process called fragmentation. Tiny bits of the plant have moved through waterways, on boats and located themselves aggressively in many areas. Several states have laws that prohibit growing parrot feather.
Growing Parrot Feather
Growing parrot feather began innocently enough in the United States. The South and Central American native came to the country in the 1800’s to decorate indoor and outdoor aquariums. The attractive, feathery plumes of parrot feather plants took hold and began to choke out native plants. If you choose to use parrot feather plants in your pond or water garden, keep in mind that parrot feather plant care will consist of keeping the plant under control. Keep growing parrot feather in bounds by only using in lined ponds and water features or in containers.
Parrot feather plants grow in fresh water areas from rhizomatous roots. Cutting the plant encourages it to grow, so control can be complicated if it grows to restrict your drainage pipe or begins to destroy beneficial algae. Aquatic herbicides are sometimes effective in parrot feather plant care and control. If you choose to grow parrot feather plants in or around your water feature or pond, make sure it is legal to grow it in your area. Plant only in a controlled situation, such as a container or indoor water feature.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) are the perfect finishing touches for a garden pool or pond, adding practicality as well as beauty to a water feature. Fish use them as hiding places to escape predators and as shady retreats from the hot summer sun. Plants growing in a pond help keep the water clean and aerated, so you’ll spend less time on pond maintenance. Let’s take a look at how to grow a water lily.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Have you ever looked at a stand of cattails and wondered is the cattail plant edible? Using edible parts of a cattail in the kitchen is nothing new, except maybe the kitchen part. Native Americans routinely harvested the cattail plant for use as tinder, diaper material, and, yes, food. Cattail starch has even been found on Paleolithic grinding stones dating back tens of thousands of years. So what parts of cattail are edible and how do you use cattails in the kitchen?
What Parts of Cattail are Edible?
Cattails are incredibly unique looking plants and, in fact, are actually grasses. There are dozens of species found growing in the Northern Hemisphere and Australia with the largest and most common being Typha latifolia. They can be found in some marshy areas in such proliferation it’s no wonder that ancient man discovered that the cattail plant is edible.
Many parts of these tall, reedy plants can be ingested. Each cattail has both male and female flowers on the same stalk. The male flower is at the top and the female is below. Once the male has released all of its pollen, it dries up and drops to the ground, leaving the female flower atop the stalk. The female flower looks much like a fuzzy hotdog on a stick and is commonly seen in dried flower arrangements, but that isn’t all it’s useful for.
Before the male pollinates the female in the spring, the pollen can be collected and used in combination with traditional flower to make pancakes or muffins. The cattail pollen is a great source of protein. The female flower is green prior to pollination and at this juncture can be harvested, cooked and eaten with butter, sort of a marsh corn on the cob. The green flowers can also be used in soups or frittatas or even made into cattail flower refrigerator pickles.
Additional Edible Parts of Cattail Plants
Young cattail shoots and roots are also edible parts of cattail plants. The young shoots are found once the outer leaves are stripped and can then be used stir fried or sautéed. They are referred to as Cossack asparagus, although the tender, white shoots taste more like cucumbers. The tough, fibrous roots can also be harvested. They are then dried and ground into flour or boiled down with water to separate the starch. The starch is then used much like corn starch to thicken gravies and sauces. Care should be taken when using the edible root parts of a cattail, however. They act as a filtration system for the plant and if in polluted water, will absorb those pollutants which could then be passed along to you as you ingest them.
All in all, cattails may be the perfect survival food. They are also easy to harvest and a supply can be laid aside for later use as well as for medicinal purposes, clothing and shelter – altogether a truly remarkable plant.
What Parts of Cattail are Edible?
Cattails are incredibly unique looking plants and, in fact, are actually grasses. There are dozens of species found growing in the Northern Hemisphere and Australia with the largest and most common being Typha latifolia. They can be found in some marshy areas in such proliferation it’s no wonder that ancient man discovered that the cattail plant is edible.
Many parts of these tall, reedy plants can be ingested. Each cattail has both male and female flowers on the same stalk. The male flower is at the top and the female is below. Once the male has released all of its pollen, it dries up and drops to the ground, leaving the female flower atop the stalk. The female flower looks much like a fuzzy hotdog on a stick and is commonly seen in dried flower arrangements, but that isn’t all it’s useful for.
Before the male pollinates the female in the spring, the pollen can be collected and used in combination with traditional flower to make pancakes or muffins. The cattail pollen is a great source of protein. The female flower is green prior to pollination and at this juncture can be harvested, cooked and eaten with butter, sort of a marsh corn on the cob. The green flowers can also be used in soups or frittatas or even made into cattail flower refrigerator pickles.
Additional Edible Parts of Cattail Plants
Young cattail shoots and roots are also edible parts of cattail plants. The young shoots are found once the outer leaves are stripped and can then be used stir fried or sautéed. They are referred to as Cossack asparagus, although the tender, white shoots taste more like cucumbers. The tough, fibrous roots can also be harvested. They are then dried and ground into flour or boiled down with water to separate the starch. The starch is then used much like corn starch to thicken gravies and sauces. Care should be taken when using the edible root parts of a cattail, however. They act as a filtration system for the plant and if in polluted water, will absorb those pollutants which could then be passed along to you as you ingest them.
All in all, cattails may be the perfect survival food. They are also easy to harvest and a supply can be laid aside for later use as well as for medicinal purposes, clothing and shelter – altogether a truly remarkable plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you plant an herb garden, by all means use it! Herbs are meant to be cut; otherwise, they get gangly or woody. Parsley is no exception and if you don’t prune it, you end up with leggy parsley plants. So what can you do about overgrown or leggy parsley plants?
Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley
If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants.
Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you’ll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.
How to Trim Parsley
If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it’s important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large.
Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.
Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley
If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants.
Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you’ll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.
How to Trim Parsley
If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it’s important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large.
Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Most herbs are easy to grow in well-drained soil and bright light, and parsley is no exception. This common herb has a rich history of use for flavoring, medicine, ritual purposes and it even freshens your breath after a meal. Wilted parsley plants may represent a water issue or even disease. Refreshing wilted parsley might be as simple as providing water, but be cautious. Too much moisture can have a similar effect and may promote rot, a condition the plant can’t overcome.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Many of us cultivate herbs for use in cooking or for medicinal use. We normally plant the usual standbys parsley, sage, rosemary, mint, thyme, etc. If you’re finding your herbs a bit ho-hum, you should try introducing some Japanese Mitsuba parsley into the garden. What is Japanese parsley and what other interesting Mitsuba plant info can we unearth?
What is Japanese Parsley?
Japanese Mitsuba parsley (Cryptotaenia japonica) is a member of the Apiaceae family, which includes carrots. Although it is technically a biennial/annual herb, Japanese parsley use is more commonly cultivated as a vegetable in Japan. Mitsuba may also be found under the names Purple-Leaved Japanese Wild Parsley, Mitsuba, and Purple-Leaved Japanese Honewort. Plants are low growing, about 18-24 inches tall by 8 inches across with heart-shaped, lightly ruffled leaves borne off of purple/bronze stems. The plant flowers light pink in mid-summer.
Japanese Parsley Uses
Mitsuba is native to eastern Asia. It can be used in shade gardens where its foliage contrasts nicely with other shade lovers such as:
Hostas
Ferns
Solomon’s seal
Columbine
Lungwort
In Asian cuisine, Japanese parsley is used as a seasoning, a potency tonic and the leaves and root are cooked as a vegetable while sprouts are eaten in salads. All parts of the plant are edible from roots to seed; however, some people report toxic effects (dermatitis) from repeated contact and toxicity from eating large quantities of the plant. The flavor is said to be akin to celery combined with parsley, sorrel and coriander. Yum!
Additional Mitsuba Plant Info
The lovely trefoil leaves are sometimes used in Japanese flower arranging (Ikebana). The stems are tied into a knot to decorate traditional Japanese dishes designed to bring good luck to the happy couple. This is a moderately growing plant which prefers moist conditions in shaded areas. It is not winter hardy and will die back, but have no fear, Mitsuba readily self-seeds and another crop will undoubtedly be peeking up from the soil in the spring. Some folks report that Japanese parsley can be invasive. If you want to have more control of where it will spring up, be sure to cut back the blossoms before they go to seed.
Growing Japanese Parsley
Japanese parsley can be grown in USDA zones 4-7 in, as mentioned, a moist, shady area – ideally under trees. Unlike other herbs, Mitsuba wants to stay damp but, like other herbs, doesn’t want “wet feet,” so there is a fine line here. Be sure to plant Japanese parsley in an area with good drainage. When growing Japanese parsley, sow seeds in April indoors, or wait until temps have warmed outside and direct sow. Germination is fairly rapid. When the seedlings are small, they must be protected from slugs and snails, who apparently adore the flavor as well. Other than these guys, Mitsuba has no significant pests or problems. Harvest Japanese parsley a few leaves at a time in bunches just as you would any other herb. Use fresh or add to cooked dishes at the last minute. Overcooking Mitsuba will destroy its wonderful aroma and flavor.
What is Japanese Parsley?
Japanese Mitsuba parsley (Cryptotaenia japonica) is a member of the Apiaceae family, which includes carrots. Although it is technically a biennial/annual herb, Japanese parsley use is more commonly cultivated as a vegetable in Japan. Mitsuba may also be found under the names Purple-Leaved Japanese Wild Parsley, Mitsuba, and Purple-Leaved Japanese Honewort. Plants are low growing, about 18-24 inches tall by 8 inches across with heart-shaped, lightly ruffled leaves borne off of purple/bronze stems. The plant flowers light pink in mid-summer.
Japanese Parsley Uses
Mitsuba is native to eastern Asia. It can be used in shade gardens where its foliage contrasts nicely with other shade lovers such as:
Hostas
Ferns
Solomon’s seal
Columbine
Lungwort
In Asian cuisine, Japanese parsley is used as a seasoning, a potency tonic and the leaves and root are cooked as a vegetable while sprouts are eaten in salads. All parts of the plant are edible from roots to seed; however, some people report toxic effects (dermatitis) from repeated contact and toxicity from eating large quantities of the plant. The flavor is said to be akin to celery combined with parsley, sorrel and coriander. Yum!
Additional Mitsuba Plant Info
The lovely trefoil leaves are sometimes used in Japanese flower arranging (Ikebana). The stems are tied into a knot to decorate traditional Japanese dishes designed to bring good luck to the happy couple. This is a moderately growing plant which prefers moist conditions in shaded areas. It is not winter hardy and will die back, but have no fear, Mitsuba readily self-seeds and another crop will undoubtedly be peeking up from the soil in the spring. Some folks report that Japanese parsley can be invasive. If you want to have more control of where it will spring up, be sure to cut back the blossoms before they go to seed.
Growing Japanese Parsley
Japanese parsley can be grown in USDA zones 4-7 in, as mentioned, a moist, shady area – ideally under trees. Unlike other herbs, Mitsuba wants to stay damp but, like other herbs, doesn’t want “wet feet,” so there is a fine line here. Be sure to plant Japanese parsley in an area with good drainage. When growing Japanese parsley, sow seeds in April indoors, or wait until temps have warmed outside and direct sow. Germination is fairly rapid. When the seedlings are small, they must be protected from slugs and snails, who apparently adore the flavor as well. Other than these guys, Mitsuba has no significant pests or problems. Harvest Japanese parsley a few leaves at a time in bunches just as you would any other herb. Use fresh or add to cooked dishes at the last minute. Overcooking Mitsuba will destroy its wonderful aroma and flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a hardy herb grown for its flavor, which is added to many dishes, as well as its use as a decorative garnish. Growing parsley also makes an attractive edging plant. Its curly, fern-like foliage is high in vitamins and the plant is rarely affected by disease, though pests such as aphids, can occasionally present a problem. Parsley is considered a biennial but is treated as an annual in cold climates. This herb can be grown in containers or out in the garden and is generally established through seeds. Read on to learn more about how to grow parsley.
When to Plant Parsley Seeds
Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water. Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.
How to Grow Parsley
Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.
Harvesting Parsley
Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing parsley in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor. Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.
When to Plant Parsley Seeds
Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water. Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.
How to Grow Parsley
Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.
Harvesting Parsley
Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing parsley in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor. Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Almost everyone has heard of peppermint. That’s the flavoring they use in toothpaste and chewing gum, isn’t it? Yes, it is, but a peppermint planting in your home garden can offer you so much more. Learning how to grow peppermint is easy, but before we get into growing peppermint, let’s learn a little bit about the plant itself. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) was first cultivated in 1750 near London, England as an experimental hybrid between watermint and spearmint. That you can now find naturally growing peppermint almost anywhere in the world is a testament not only to its adaptability, but as an indication of its medicinal qualities. Once our forefathers, or more likely foremothers, learned how to use the peppermint plant, they took it everywhere they moved or visited where some, no doubt, was left behind with new friends.
Peppermint Planting and Care of Peppermint
Although the care of peppermint is a little more involved than just sticking it in the ground, it certainly isn’t intricate. First and foremost, this plant needs lots of water and it is often found naturalized by streams and ponds where the soil is rich and the drainage is good. It won’t tolerate dry conditions. While partial sun is sufficient for peppermint, planting it in full sun will increase the potency of its oils and medicinal qualities. Though not as invasive as some of its mint relatives, no instructions on how to grow peppermint would be complete without mentioning its tendency to spread. Because of this, many gardeners prefer growing peppermint in containers. Others grow it in the ground with wood or plastic edging buried around the bed to prevent the spread of roots. Whatever method is chosen, good care of peppermint includes moving the plants to a new location every three or four years. They tend to weaken and become spindly if left in the same place for too long. There are two main cultivated varieties of this aromatic herb: black and white. Black peppermint has deep purple-green leaves and stems and a higher oil content. The white is actually light green and has a milder flavor. Either is adequate for growing peppermint at home.
How to Use Peppermint Plant
You can keep a peppermint planting simply for its delightful saw-toothed leaves and delicate flowers or for the spicy fragrance released when the leaves are crushed between your fingers. However, once you learn to use the peppermint plant for medicinal purposes, you may become an even greater fan. Within the pharmaceutical community, many home remedies were written off as old wives tales, but recent university research has revealed that many of our grandmother’s recommendations for how to use peppermint plant were indeed accurate and effective. Here are some proven facts:
Digestion – Peppermint is good for indigestion and bloating. As a carminative herb, peppermint has the ability to expel gas from the stomach and intestines by relaxing the muscles involved. It has also been used to successfully treat Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS). It should not, however, be used for the treatment of Gastrointestinal Reflux Disease (GERD) as it may further relax the muscles that prevent the backflow of stomach acid thus worsening the problem. Colds and Flu – Peppermint is a natural decongestant. One of the herb’s active ingredients is menthol, which thins mucus and will therefore loosen phlegm and reduce coughs. It is soothing to sore throats. Type II Diabetes – Test-tube results show that peppermint may aid in lowering blood sugar and may prove helpful to mild or pre-diabetic patients. This comes with a word of warning. When combined with medication, it may result in Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). Blood Pressure – Results are similar to those of blood sugar and the same cautions apply.
It would be remiss if we failed to mention some concerns in health care of peppermint oils and extracts. Some of these include the following: Peppermint can make gallstones worse. Large doses of peppermint oil can be fatal and any amount used on the hands or face of an infant or toddler can cause breathing spasms that may result in death. While likely safe to use, no definitive studies have been done of peppermint’s effect on pregnancy. Lastly, NEVER take peppermint with an immunosuppressant. As with all herbs, there can be unforeseen side effects or interactions with other supplements or medications and any regular use should be discussed with your health care provider.
Peppermint Planting and Care of Peppermint
Although the care of peppermint is a little more involved than just sticking it in the ground, it certainly isn’t intricate. First and foremost, this plant needs lots of water and it is often found naturalized by streams and ponds where the soil is rich and the drainage is good. It won’t tolerate dry conditions. While partial sun is sufficient for peppermint, planting it in full sun will increase the potency of its oils and medicinal qualities. Though not as invasive as some of its mint relatives, no instructions on how to grow peppermint would be complete without mentioning its tendency to spread. Because of this, many gardeners prefer growing peppermint in containers. Others grow it in the ground with wood or plastic edging buried around the bed to prevent the spread of roots. Whatever method is chosen, good care of peppermint includes moving the plants to a new location every three or four years. They tend to weaken and become spindly if left in the same place for too long. There are two main cultivated varieties of this aromatic herb: black and white. Black peppermint has deep purple-green leaves and stems and a higher oil content. The white is actually light green and has a milder flavor. Either is adequate for growing peppermint at home.
How to Use Peppermint Plant
You can keep a peppermint planting simply for its delightful saw-toothed leaves and delicate flowers or for the spicy fragrance released when the leaves are crushed between your fingers. However, once you learn to use the peppermint plant for medicinal purposes, you may become an even greater fan. Within the pharmaceutical community, many home remedies were written off as old wives tales, but recent university research has revealed that many of our grandmother’s recommendations for how to use peppermint plant were indeed accurate and effective. Here are some proven facts:
Digestion – Peppermint is good for indigestion and bloating. As a carminative herb, peppermint has the ability to expel gas from the stomach and intestines by relaxing the muscles involved. It has also been used to successfully treat Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS). It should not, however, be used for the treatment of Gastrointestinal Reflux Disease (GERD) as it may further relax the muscles that prevent the backflow of stomach acid thus worsening the problem. Colds and Flu – Peppermint is a natural decongestant. One of the herb’s active ingredients is menthol, which thins mucus and will therefore loosen phlegm and reduce coughs. It is soothing to sore throats. Type II Diabetes – Test-tube results show that peppermint may aid in lowering blood sugar and may prove helpful to mild or pre-diabetic patients. This comes with a word of warning. When combined with medication, it may result in Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). Blood Pressure – Results are similar to those of blood sugar and the same cautions apply.
It would be remiss if we failed to mention some concerns in health care of peppermint oils and extracts. Some of these include the following: Peppermint can make gallstones worse. Large doses of peppermint oil can be fatal and any amount used on the hands or face of an infant or toddler can cause breathing spasms that may result in death. While likely safe to use, no definitive studies have been done of peppermint’s effect on pregnancy. Lastly, NEVER take peppermint with an immunosuppressant. As with all herbs, there can be unforeseen side effects or interactions with other supplements or medications and any regular use should be discussed with your health care provider.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pineapple mint plants (Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’) are among the most attractive varieties of mints. There are a number of pineapple mint uses that make this versatile plant well worth growing. Use it in beverages, as an attractive garnish, in potpourris and in any dish that calls for mint. It makes an attractive and fragrant ground cover, and also grows well in containers and hanging baskets. The only problem with pineapple mint is that it spreads vigorously. This can be good if you want to use it as a ground cover to fill an area, but it will eventually find its way into the rest of the garden unless you install a deep edging around it. Growing pineapple mint in containers is a good way to keep this and other mints under control, but you’ll still need to take some precautions. The plant has been known to escape through the drainage holes in the bottoms of pots and even jump from pot to pot in container groupings.
What is Pineapple Mint?
Pineapple mint is a variegated cultivar of apple mint (Mentha suaveolens). It features attractive, variegated leaves, usually with white margins, on plants that grow up to a foot tall. The leaves are bumpy and hairy and the white edging can make them look as though they are sporting a ruffle. White or light pink flowers bloom on small spikes at the top of the plant in summer. The flowers attract a wide variety of pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Deer dislike strong fragrances and hairy leaves, so they have two reasons to dislike pineapple mint.
How to Care for Pineapple Mint
Grow pineapple mint in full sun or partial shade in rich, moist soil. Plants grown in sun tend to stand upright, while those that get afternoon shade sprawl near the ground. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plants are well-established. Once they are growing well, you’ll only need to water them during dry spells. The plants don’t need regular fertilization when planted in good garden soil. Older plants become woody and unattractive. Pull them up and let younger plants fill in the empty space.
Pinch out the growing tips of pineapple mint plants regularly to keep them compact and bushy. You may occasionally find solid green sprigs of mint mixed in with your pineapple mint. These are sprigs of apple mint — the parent plant of the pineapple mint cultivar. You should pinch them out as you find them because, like most variegated plants, pineapple mint isn’t as vigorous as its non-variegated parent plant, and the apple mint will soon take over.
What is Pineapple Mint?
Pineapple mint is a variegated cultivar of apple mint (Mentha suaveolens). It features attractive, variegated leaves, usually with white margins, on plants that grow up to a foot tall. The leaves are bumpy and hairy and the white edging can make them look as though they are sporting a ruffle. White or light pink flowers bloom on small spikes at the top of the plant in summer. The flowers attract a wide variety of pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Deer dislike strong fragrances and hairy leaves, so they have two reasons to dislike pineapple mint.
How to Care for Pineapple Mint
Grow pineapple mint in full sun or partial shade in rich, moist soil. Plants grown in sun tend to stand upright, while those that get afternoon shade sprawl near the ground. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plants are well-established. Once they are growing well, you’ll only need to water them during dry spells. The plants don’t need regular fertilization when planted in good garden soil. Older plants become woody and unattractive. Pull them up and let younger plants fill in the empty space.
Pinch out the growing tips of pineapple mint plants regularly to keep them compact and bushy. You may occasionally find solid green sprigs of mint mixed in with your pineapple mint. These are sprigs of apple mint — the parent plant of the pineapple mint cultivar. You should pinch them out as you find them because, like most variegated plants, pineapple mint isn’t as vigorous as its non-variegated parent plant, and the apple mint will soon take over.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Watermint plants are aquatic to riparian flora. It naturally occurs in northern Europe along waterways, in storm ditches and near rivers and other waterways. Older generations had many thoughts on how to use watermint. It has topical uses, can be made into a tea, helps in natural pest control and other properties. Mentha aquatica, as it is known to botanical students, is abundant in its native range and hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11.
What is Watermint?
Shore plants, like watermint, are important for erosion control, food sources, animal habitat and simple waterline beauty. What is watermint? Growing watermint around the pond will add fragrance in the summer blooming season and attract butterflies and pollinating insects. The midsummer blooms are caps of tiny florets amassed into a larger flower in deep hues of purple to blue, creating a beautiful effect. Watermint has thick dark green leaves tinged with purple, deeply veined and slightly hairy. Like all mints, this plant spreads with long runners, which root at nodes and create daughter plants. It has the tendency to become invasive, so plant in a container to prevent invasive growth.
Growing Watermint
Plant Mentha aquatica along the edges of bodies of water or in shallow water. The plant prefers slightly acidic soil in moist loam. Watermint plants do best in full sun but can also thrive in partial shade. The stems spread out appealingly on top of water and the bright fresh flowers add fragrance and color to the pond or water garden. You can plant the mint directly into the ground but to prevent spreading, try planting in a container with good drainage holes. Sink it directly into the edge of the water so moisture constantly flows around the roots. Watermint has few pest or disease problems, but it tends to get a little rust, so avoid overhead watering in warmer, humid regions. The plant responds favorably to light trimming and will push out thicker growth when cut back. Watermint is a perennial plant that may die back in cold weather but will burst with fresh green growth when temperatures warm.
How to Use Watermint
Watermint plants have topical medicinal properties as a balm for sore muscles and an aid for cleaning wounds. The oils in the leaves add flavor to cooking and baking and leaves add a bright zing to salads. You can dry the leaves for use as a tea, which aids in digestion and calms ulcers. As a natural pesticide, it repels flies and mice seem to avoid the scent of the plant. Mentha aquatica distillations are also refreshing additions to mouthwash, body wash and even lotions. The pure refreshing scent can add a boost to potpourri and as an aromatherapy treatment the plant calms and refreshes. As with all mints, the oils and aroma help relieve stuffy noses and clear the breathing passages. Watermint is a valuable and lovely addition to the garden, with uses beyond medicinal and culinary. Add the oil to cleaning products to freshen the home and enliven the air.
What is Watermint?
Shore plants, like watermint, are important for erosion control, food sources, animal habitat and simple waterline beauty. What is watermint? Growing watermint around the pond will add fragrance in the summer blooming season and attract butterflies and pollinating insects. The midsummer blooms are caps of tiny florets amassed into a larger flower in deep hues of purple to blue, creating a beautiful effect. Watermint has thick dark green leaves tinged with purple, deeply veined and slightly hairy. Like all mints, this plant spreads with long runners, which root at nodes and create daughter plants. It has the tendency to become invasive, so plant in a container to prevent invasive growth.
Growing Watermint
Plant Mentha aquatica along the edges of bodies of water or in shallow water. The plant prefers slightly acidic soil in moist loam. Watermint plants do best in full sun but can also thrive in partial shade. The stems spread out appealingly on top of water and the bright fresh flowers add fragrance and color to the pond or water garden. You can plant the mint directly into the ground but to prevent spreading, try planting in a container with good drainage holes. Sink it directly into the edge of the water so moisture constantly flows around the roots. Watermint has few pest or disease problems, but it tends to get a little rust, so avoid overhead watering in warmer, humid regions. The plant responds favorably to light trimming and will push out thicker growth when cut back. Watermint is a perennial plant that may die back in cold weather but will burst with fresh green growth when temperatures warm.
How to Use Watermint
Watermint plants have topical medicinal properties as a balm for sore muscles and an aid for cleaning wounds. The oils in the leaves add flavor to cooking and baking and leaves add a bright zing to salads. You can dry the leaves for use as a tea, which aids in digestion and calms ulcers. As a natural pesticide, it repels flies and mice seem to avoid the scent of the plant. Mentha aquatica distillations are also refreshing additions to mouthwash, body wash and even lotions. The pure refreshing scent can add a boost to potpourri and as an aromatherapy treatment the plant calms and refreshes. As with all mints, the oils and aroma help relieve stuffy noses and clear the breathing passages. Watermint is a valuable and lovely addition to the garden, with uses beyond medicinal and culinary. Add the oil to cleaning products to freshen the home and enliven the air.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
I use my home grown herbs in teas to soothe my stomach, ease headaches, and treat a myriad of other symptoms, but I love my black tea and green tea as well. This made me wonder about growing and harvesting my own tea plants.
About Harvesting Tea Plants
Billions of people count on a cup of soothing tea each and every day, but probably most of those billions have no idea what their tea is made of. Sure, they may get the idea that tea is made from, well, leaves of course, but what type of leaves? Camellia sinensis produces almost all of the world’s teas from black to oolong to white and green. Camellias are popular garden specimens chosen for their lively color in the winter and fall when little else is in bloom. These are different cultivars than those grown for tea. Camellia sinensis can be grown in sunny to partially shaded areas in USDA zones 7-9. Allowed to grow unmolested, the plant grows naturally into a large shrub or small tree or it can be pruned to a height of about 3 feet (.9 m.) to make tea plant harvesting easier and to promote new growth.
When to Harvest Tea Plants
C. sinensis is very hardy and can survive temperatures as low as 0 F. (-18 C.) but cooler temperatures will cause the plant to grow more slowly and/or become dormant. It takes about 2 years before the plant is mature enough for tea plant harvesting, and about 5 years for the plant to really become a tea leaf producer. So when can you harvest tea plants? Only the young, tender leaves and buds are used for tea. That’s why you should prune the plant: to facilitate new growth. Prune the tips of the plant in the late winter. Harvesting of tea plants can commence in the spring as the plants begin to leaf out. Once the new shoots appear at the tips of the pruned branches, allow them to grow until 2-4 are unfurling. At this point you’re ready to learn how to harvest Camellia sinensis.
How to Harvest Camellia sinensis
The secret to making great green tea is to harvest just the top two new leaves and leaf bud on the new spring growth. Even commercially, harvesting is still done by hand since machinery can damage the tender leaves. Once the leaves are plucked, they are spread in a thin layer on a tray and then left to dry in the sun. You can harvest tea every 7-15 days depending upon the development of the tender shoots. Different processes are used to produce black teas which are usually harvested in July and August when temperatures are at their peak. To utilize your tea leaves, steam them for 1-2 minutes and then immediately run under cold water to stop the cooking process (this is called shocking) and to allow them to retain their vibrant green color. Then roll the soft leaves between your hands or with a sushi mat into tubes. Once the tea leaves are rolled into tubes, place them in an oven safe dish and bake them at 215 F. (102 C.) for 10-12 minutes, turning them every 5 minutes. The tea is ready when the leaves are completely dried. Allow them to cool and then store them in a sealed glass container.
About Harvesting Tea Plants
Billions of people count on a cup of soothing tea each and every day, but probably most of those billions have no idea what their tea is made of. Sure, they may get the idea that tea is made from, well, leaves of course, but what type of leaves? Camellia sinensis produces almost all of the world’s teas from black to oolong to white and green. Camellias are popular garden specimens chosen for their lively color in the winter and fall when little else is in bloom. These are different cultivars than those grown for tea. Camellia sinensis can be grown in sunny to partially shaded areas in USDA zones 7-9. Allowed to grow unmolested, the plant grows naturally into a large shrub or small tree or it can be pruned to a height of about 3 feet (.9 m.) to make tea plant harvesting easier and to promote new growth.
When to Harvest Tea Plants
C. sinensis is very hardy and can survive temperatures as low as 0 F. (-18 C.) but cooler temperatures will cause the plant to grow more slowly and/or become dormant. It takes about 2 years before the plant is mature enough for tea plant harvesting, and about 5 years for the plant to really become a tea leaf producer. So when can you harvest tea plants? Only the young, tender leaves and buds are used for tea. That’s why you should prune the plant: to facilitate new growth. Prune the tips of the plant in the late winter. Harvesting of tea plants can commence in the spring as the plants begin to leaf out. Once the new shoots appear at the tips of the pruned branches, allow them to grow until 2-4 are unfurling. At this point you’re ready to learn how to harvest Camellia sinensis.
How to Harvest Camellia sinensis
The secret to making great green tea is to harvest just the top two new leaves and leaf bud on the new spring growth. Even commercially, harvesting is still done by hand since machinery can damage the tender leaves. Once the leaves are plucked, they are spread in a thin layer on a tray and then left to dry in the sun. You can harvest tea every 7-15 days depending upon the development of the tender shoots. Different processes are used to produce black teas which are usually harvested in July and August when temperatures are at their peak. To utilize your tea leaves, steam them for 1-2 minutes and then immediately run under cold water to stop the cooking process (this is called shocking) and to allow them to retain their vibrant green color. Then roll the soft leaves between your hands or with a sushi mat into tubes. Once the tea leaves are rolled into tubes, place them in an oven safe dish and bake them at 215 F. (102 C.) for 10-12 minutes, turning them every 5 minutes. The tea is ready when the leaves are completely dried. Allow them to cool and then store them in a sealed glass container.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Clary sage plant (Salvia sclarea) has a history of use as a medicinal, flavoring agent and aromatic. The plant is an herb in the genus Salvia which encompasses all the sages. Salvia sclarea is primarily grown in the temperate areas of the world and is a short-lived herbaceous perennial or biennial. More commonly known as Cleareye or Eye bright, clary sage herb is easy to grow and adds an ornamental display of flowers to the herb garden.
Clary Sage Herb
Clary sage plant is native to the Mediterranean and parts of Europe. It is most commonly cultivated in Hungary, France and Russia. Both the leaves and flowers are used in flavoring and teas as well as aromatherapy applications.
The plant also yields an essential oil called clary oil or muscatel sage, which is used for topical afflictions and in aromatherapy applications. Growing clary sage for home use provides all these benefits and is safe for human consumption according the Purdue University.
How to Grow Clary Sage
Clary sage is a biennial that begins as a rosette in the first year and will grow a flower stalk the second year. It is a short-lived plant that will usually die after the second year, although in some climates it may persist weakly for one or two more seasons. The plant can grow up to 4 feet tall and produces purplish blue flower spikes from late spring into mid summer. Flowers are held in panicles which contain four to six blooms. Cultivators grow clary sage primarily for the flowers, which are dried or pressed for various uses. Growing clary sage can be accomplished down to USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 5. Clary sage plant grows and establishes quickly in full sun and well drained soils. Sage can be started from seed, cuttings or layered. The most important attribute for growing clary sage is drainage. Wet sites can rot the plant or severely curtail its growth. The plant will need supplemental irrigation until it is established but can provide its own moisture thereafter except in very arid zones.
Using Clary Sage in the Garden
Clary sage is deer resistant, which makes it ideal for the naturalized or meadow garden. The plant may spread by seed but volunteer seeding is usually minimal. The herb requires a chilling period of at least three months to produce flowers and is not a good performer in hot climates for this reason. Clary sage plant does well in an herb or pottage garden or mixed in a border of perennials. It attracts honeybees and other pollinators to the garden.
Varieties of Clary Sage Herb
Clary sage has two common cultivars. A variation called turkestanica is a 3-foot tall version of the herb with longer flower bracts and a more pronounced blue color. The cultivar ‘Vatican’ is a white flowering clary sage herb with the same cultivation requirements as the parent herb.
Clary Sage Herb
Clary sage plant is native to the Mediterranean and parts of Europe. It is most commonly cultivated in Hungary, France and Russia. Both the leaves and flowers are used in flavoring and teas as well as aromatherapy applications.
The plant also yields an essential oil called clary oil or muscatel sage, which is used for topical afflictions and in aromatherapy applications. Growing clary sage for home use provides all these benefits and is safe for human consumption according the Purdue University.
How to Grow Clary Sage
Clary sage is a biennial that begins as a rosette in the first year and will grow a flower stalk the second year. It is a short-lived plant that will usually die after the second year, although in some climates it may persist weakly for one or two more seasons. The plant can grow up to 4 feet tall and produces purplish blue flower spikes from late spring into mid summer. Flowers are held in panicles which contain four to six blooms. Cultivators grow clary sage primarily for the flowers, which are dried or pressed for various uses. Growing clary sage can be accomplished down to USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 5. Clary sage plant grows and establishes quickly in full sun and well drained soils. Sage can be started from seed, cuttings or layered. The most important attribute for growing clary sage is drainage. Wet sites can rot the plant or severely curtail its growth. The plant will need supplemental irrigation until it is established but can provide its own moisture thereafter except in very arid zones.
Using Clary Sage in the Garden
Clary sage is deer resistant, which makes it ideal for the naturalized or meadow garden. The plant may spread by seed but volunteer seeding is usually minimal. The herb requires a chilling period of at least three months to produce flowers and is not a good performer in hot climates for this reason. Clary sage plant does well in an herb or pottage garden or mixed in a border of perennials. It attracts honeybees and other pollinators to the garden.
Varieties of Clary Sage Herb
Clary sage has two common cultivars. A variation called turkestanica is a 3-foot tall version of the herb with longer flower bracts and a more pronounced blue color. The cultivar ‘Vatican’ is a white flowering clary sage herb with the same cultivation requirements as the parent herb.
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