文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Gloriosa Lilies (the genus Gloriosa), also known as Flame Lilies and Glory Lilies, thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be overwintered successfully in zone 9 with winter mulch. In cooler areas, Gloriosa Lilies can be grown successfully during the summer and lifted and stored for the winter.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole.
Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care
Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods.
Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming.
Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole.
Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care
Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods.
Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming.
Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月25日
l árbol del cacao crece siempre verde, alcanza de 8 a 10 metros de altura y presenta la copa abierta. Su estructura radical es potentísima.
Las hojas son oblongas, enteras y glabras (lampiñas), apuntadas en uno de sus extremos. El pecíolo posee una articulación que le faculta para orientar su limbo en dirección de la máxima intensidad lumínica, por ello en ocasiones se pueden observar cómo las hojas cuelgan paralelas al tronco.
Las flores son pentámeras, insertadas directamente sobre las ramas o en el propio tronco. Su disposición puede ser aisladas o en grupos de hasta tres. El cáliz es rosáceo y dividido en 5 partes, sobrepasando a las de la corola, que es de color amarillo.
El fruto es una baya ovoide, amarillenta o rojiza, de unos 400 gramos de peso y unos 15 cm. de longitud. La corteza es rugosa y está recorrida longitudinalmente por 10 estrías o surcos. Cuando maduran se destruyen las cubiertas externas quedando sólo una pulpa blanda y blanquecina (dulce pero ácida) que aloja las semillas. Éstas están distribuidas entre las cinco divisiones del fruto, dispuestas longitudinalmente a lo largo de cada una ellas.
El cultivo del cacaotero es muy exigente en cuanto a cuidados. El ciclo vegetativo es ininterrumpido, y durante él se requieren temperaturas medias de entre 24 y 28 ºC, procurando siempre que no descienda en ningún caso de los 12 ºC.
El régimen de pluviosidad de la zona en que se asiente debe ser superior a los 160 cm3, pero manteniéndose un periodo de sequedad de unos dos meses. La humedad ambiental debe ser alta.
Precisa un suelo profundo y donde pueda vegetar a la sombra, por eso es común cultivarlos intercalados con otros árboles de porte más alto, o de forma que sus copas desarrollen en un estrato superior para protegerlos del sol directo.
La forma de multiplicación del cacaotero más utilizada es la siembra, limpiando bien las semillas de la pulpa que las envuelve. Para la producción, se suele utilizar la propagación por injerto de yema o escudete.
Las hojas son oblongas, enteras y glabras (lampiñas), apuntadas en uno de sus extremos. El pecíolo posee una articulación que le faculta para orientar su limbo en dirección de la máxima intensidad lumínica, por ello en ocasiones se pueden observar cómo las hojas cuelgan paralelas al tronco.
Las flores son pentámeras, insertadas directamente sobre las ramas o en el propio tronco. Su disposición puede ser aisladas o en grupos de hasta tres. El cáliz es rosáceo y dividido en 5 partes, sobrepasando a las de la corola, que es de color amarillo.
El fruto es una baya ovoide, amarillenta o rojiza, de unos 400 gramos de peso y unos 15 cm. de longitud. La corteza es rugosa y está recorrida longitudinalmente por 10 estrías o surcos. Cuando maduran se destruyen las cubiertas externas quedando sólo una pulpa blanda y blanquecina (dulce pero ácida) que aloja las semillas. Éstas están distribuidas entre las cinco divisiones del fruto, dispuestas longitudinalmente a lo largo de cada una ellas.
El cultivo del cacaotero es muy exigente en cuanto a cuidados. El ciclo vegetativo es ininterrumpido, y durante él se requieren temperaturas medias de entre 24 y 28 ºC, procurando siempre que no descienda en ningún caso de los 12 ºC.
El régimen de pluviosidad de la zona en que se asiente debe ser superior a los 160 cm3, pero manteniéndose un periodo de sequedad de unos dos meses. La humedad ambiental debe ser alta.
Precisa un suelo profundo y donde pueda vegetar a la sombra, por eso es común cultivarlos intercalados con otros árboles de porte más alto, o de forma que sus copas desarrollen en un estrato superior para protegerlos del sol directo.
La forma de multiplicación del cacaotero más utilizada es la siembra, limpiando bien las semillas de la pulpa que las envuelve. Para la producción, se suele utilizar la propagación por injerto de yema o escudete.
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文章
玲儿
2017年09月25日
ブラサボラの育て方・栽培方法
育て方のポイント
栽培環境・日当たり・置き場
日当たりを特に好む洋ランです。一年中日がよく当たる場所で栽培します。4月ごろから10月上旬までは、戸外に置いて栽培します。早春からよく日に当てながら育てると、日焼けはあまり起こしませんが、予防的に30%程度の遮光ネットの下で栽培するとよいでしょう。冬の間は、室内の日光がよく当たる窓辺などに置いて栽培します。
水やり
春から秋にかけての成長期は、比較的水を好むので、十分に与えます。秋の半ばから春までは、比較的乾燥気味で問題ありません。ただし、蕾が伸び始めたら、水切れさせないように水を与えます。
肥料
春の半ばから有機質固形肥料を株元に置きます。また、同時に液体肥料も施し始め、秋の成長期が終わるまで、週1回程度施し続けます。
病気と害虫
病気：特にありません。
害虫：カイガラムシ
まれにカイガラムシがつくので注意します。鉢の間隔をあけて置き、風通しよくして予防しましょう。
用土（鉢植え）
特にありません。
植えつけ、 植え替え
鉢植えで栽培している場合は、2年に1回程度、植え替えます。バルブ数が10本以上になったら株分けも可能ですが、あまり細かく分けないほうがよく育ちます。コルクなどに着生させて栽培するときは、植え替えの必要はありません。1回コルクにつけると10年ぐらいはそのままで、元気に育ちます。
ふやし方
株分けでふやすことができます。株分けするときは、あまり細かく分けないことが大切です。1株に、バルブが5本以上つくように分けましょう。
主な作業
花がら摘み：花が終わりかけたら、花がら摘みをしておくとよいでしょう。株姿もよく、支柱立てもほぼ不要で、ほかに特に作業はありません。
育て方のポイント
栽培環境・日当たり・置き場
日当たりを特に好む洋ランです。一年中日がよく当たる場所で栽培します。4月ごろから10月上旬までは、戸外に置いて栽培します。早春からよく日に当てながら育てると、日焼けはあまり起こしませんが、予防的に30%程度の遮光ネットの下で栽培するとよいでしょう。冬の間は、室内の日光がよく当たる窓辺などに置いて栽培します。
水やり
春から秋にかけての成長期は、比較的水を好むので、十分に与えます。秋の半ばから春までは、比較的乾燥気味で問題ありません。ただし、蕾が伸び始めたら、水切れさせないように水を与えます。
肥料
春の半ばから有機質固形肥料を株元に置きます。また、同時に液体肥料も施し始め、秋の成長期が終わるまで、週1回程度施し続けます。
病気と害虫
病気：特にありません。
害虫：カイガラムシ
まれにカイガラムシがつくので注意します。鉢の間隔をあけて置き、風通しよくして予防しましょう。
用土（鉢植え）
特にありません。
植えつけ、 植え替え
鉢植えで栽培している場合は、2年に1回程度、植え替えます。バルブ数が10本以上になったら株分けも可能ですが、あまり細かく分けないほうがよく育ちます。コルクなどに着生させて栽培するときは、植え替えの必要はありません。1回コルクにつけると10年ぐらいはそのままで、元気に育ちます。
ふやし方
株分けでふやすことができます。株分けするときは、あまり細かく分けないことが大切です。1株に、バルブが5本以上つくように分けましょう。
主な作業
花がら摘み：花が終わりかけたら、花がら摘みをしておくとよいでしょう。株姿もよく、支柱立てもほぼ不要で、ほかに特に作業はありません。
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文章
玲儿
2017年09月24日
セロジネの育て方・栽培方法
育て方のポイント
栽培環境・日当たり・置き場
1年を通して日当たりのよい場所で栽培します。北方タイプは4月から10月までは戸外の30％程度の遮光の下で管理します。南方タイプは5月中旬から9月まで戸外で同様の遮光下で栽培します。このほかの季節は室内の窓辺に置き、なるべく長い時間日光に当たるようにします。日当たりが悪いと花つきが悪くなります。
水やり
タイプを問わず水が好きな洋ランです。特に春に新芽が伸び始めてから秋の終わりにバルブが完成するまでは、十分な水やりを行います。真夏日が続き熱帯夜があるようなときは、日中と夕方にたっぷりシャワーもかけておくと夏バテしません。冬も植え込み材料を乾かさないように水やりを行います。
肥料
春に固形の有機質肥料を規定量置き肥し、真夏前まで1か月ごとに取り替えます。緩効性化成肥料でもかまいませんが、効果が長く続くので春に1回置き肥するのみとします。液体肥料も固形肥料と同時に施し始め、9月下旬まで週１回水代わりにたっぷりと施します。
病気と害虫
害虫：ナメクジ
ほとんど病害虫が発生しない洋ランで、新芽の伸び始めと、花芽の伸び始めの時期にナメクジに注意する程度です。
用土（鉢植え）
水ゴケでプラ鉢に植えるのが一般的です。水を好む洋ランですから、植え込み材料が常にしっとりとぬれている状態を保てる植え込み材料を使います。バークと軽石を混ぜたミックスコンポストも使えますが、水ゴケ植えのときよりもしっかりと水を与えないと大きく育ちません。
植えつけ、 植え替え
植え替えは2年に1回程度、春4月ごろに行います。植え替え時期が遅れるとその年の生育が遅れ翌年花をつけない原因にもなるので注意しましょう。植え込む鉢は、2年後には株がはみ出すくらいのやや小さめのものを選びます。
ふやし方
通常、株分けでふやします。適期は植え替え同様4月ごろです。バルブの数がふえ、新芽もふえてきたら行います。株分けをせず、大株に仕立てることも可能です。
主な作業
花茎切り：ほとんどの花が茶色く枯れてきたころ、花茎をつけ根で切ります。種類によっては新芽の中から花茎を伸ばしているものもあるので、新芽の葉先を切らないように注意します。
育て方のポイント
栽培環境・日当たり・置き場
1年を通して日当たりのよい場所で栽培します。北方タイプは4月から10月までは戸外の30％程度の遮光の下で管理します。南方タイプは5月中旬から9月まで戸外で同様の遮光下で栽培します。このほかの季節は室内の窓辺に置き、なるべく長い時間日光に当たるようにします。日当たりが悪いと花つきが悪くなります。
水やり
タイプを問わず水が好きな洋ランです。特に春に新芽が伸び始めてから秋の終わりにバルブが完成するまでは、十分な水やりを行います。真夏日が続き熱帯夜があるようなときは、日中と夕方にたっぷりシャワーもかけておくと夏バテしません。冬も植え込み材料を乾かさないように水やりを行います。
肥料
春に固形の有機質肥料を規定量置き肥し、真夏前まで1か月ごとに取り替えます。緩効性化成肥料でもかまいませんが、効果が長く続くので春に1回置き肥するのみとします。液体肥料も固形肥料と同時に施し始め、9月下旬まで週１回水代わりにたっぷりと施します。
病気と害虫
害虫：ナメクジ
ほとんど病害虫が発生しない洋ランで、新芽の伸び始めと、花芽の伸び始めの時期にナメクジに注意する程度です。
用土（鉢植え）
水ゴケでプラ鉢に植えるのが一般的です。水を好む洋ランですから、植え込み材料が常にしっとりとぬれている状態を保てる植え込み材料を使います。バークと軽石を混ぜたミックスコンポストも使えますが、水ゴケ植えのときよりもしっかりと水を与えないと大きく育ちません。
植えつけ、 植え替え
植え替えは2年に1回程度、春4月ごろに行います。植え替え時期が遅れるとその年の生育が遅れ翌年花をつけない原因にもなるので注意しましょう。植え込む鉢は、2年後には株がはみ出すくらいのやや小さめのものを選びます。
ふやし方
通常、株分けでふやします。適期は植え替え同様4月ごろです。バルブの数がふえ、新芽もふえてきたら行います。株分けをせず、大株に仕立てることも可能です。
主な作業
花茎切り：ほとんどの花が茶色く枯れてきたころ、花茎をつけ根で切ります。種類によっては新芽の中から花茎を伸ばしているものもあるので、新芽の葉先を切らないように注意します。
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0
文章
玲儿
2017年09月24日
オンシジウム（オンシジューム）の育て方・栽培方法
育て方のポイント
栽培環境・日当たり・置き場
冬は、室内の日光がよく当たる窓辺などに置きます。5月の大型連休ごろから10月半ばまでは、戸外の風通しのよいところに置きましょう。このとき、できるだけ長く日が当たる場所を選んで置きますが、日焼け防止のため35％程度の遮光ネットを張った下に置きます。葉が生い茂る木の下に置くと、花芽をつけにくくなるので避けましょう。
水やり
季節を問わず、乾き始めたらたっぷりと水やりするのが原則です。夏はすぐに乾くので、毎日水やりが必要になることもあります。必ず乾き始めたら水を与え、カラカラに乾燥させないようにしましょう。
肥料
戸外に出す少し前の4月中旬から、肥料を施し始め、9月いっぱいまで施し続けます。まず、有機質固形肥料を4月から7月まで月1回程度施し、液体肥料は4月から9月まで週1回程度施します。必ず規定量と規定希釈倍率を守ってください。
病気と害虫
病気：特にありません。
害虫：アブラムシ、カイガラムシ
蕾が出るころ、アブラムシがつきやすいので注意します。
たくさんの鉢の間を詰めて置いていると、カイガラムシが発生しやすくなります。株の間隔をあけて置くことで、予防になります。
用土（鉢植え）
保水力がありながらも、比較的早く乾く植え込み材料を使います。ほとんどの場合は、水ゴケを使って素焼き鉢に植え込みます。プラスチック鉢を使う場合は、バークや軽石、バーク、ヤシ殻チップなどを混ぜたミックスコンポストを利用して植えましょう。鉢の中がいつまでもびっしょりとぬれていないようにすることが大切です。
植えつけ、 植え替え
2年に1回程度植え替えます。オンシジウムは生育が早く、すぐに鉢からはみ出すので、鉢からバルブが1つはみ出したぐらいで植え替えましょう。植え替えは、4月上旬に行うとよいでしょう。大株になったら、株分けも同時にできます。
ふやし方
株分けでふやすことができます。丈夫な洋ランですが、あまり小さく分けると生育が悪くなります。最低でも3バルブ以上で1株になるように、バルブを切り分けます。株分けの適期は、植え替え同様4月上旬ごろです。
主な作業
花芽が伸び始めたら、支柱を立てて花芽を引き起こしておきます。そのままでも開花しますが、横に伸びたり、小型種では下向きに垂れてしまうこともあります。より美しく観賞できるように、支柱を立てましょう。花が少し透けてきたり、ぱらぱらと落ち始めたら、花茎を株元で切ります。早めに切っておくと株に負担がかからず、次の新芽の生育がよくなります。
育て方のポイント
栽培環境・日当たり・置き場
冬は、室内の日光がよく当たる窓辺などに置きます。5月の大型連休ごろから10月半ばまでは、戸外の風通しのよいところに置きましょう。このとき、できるだけ長く日が当たる場所を選んで置きますが、日焼け防止のため35％程度の遮光ネットを張った下に置きます。葉が生い茂る木の下に置くと、花芽をつけにくくなるので避けましょう。
水やり
季節を問わず、乾き始めたらたっぷりと水やりするのが原則です。夏はすぐに乾くので、毎日水やりが必要になることもあります。必ず乾き始めたら水を与え、カラカラに乾燥させないようにしましょう。
肥料
戸外に出す少し前の4月中旬から、肥料を施し始め、9月いっぱいまで施し続けます。まず、有機質固形肥料を4月から7月まで月1回程度施し、液体肥料は4月から9月まで週1回程度施します。必ず規定量と規定希釈倍率を守ってください。
病気と害虫
病気：特にありません。
害虫：アブラムシ、カイガラムシ
蕾が出るころ、アブラムシがつきやすいので注意します。
たくさんの鉢の間を詰めて置いていると、カイガラムシが発生しやすくなります。株の間隔をあけて置くことで、予防になります。
用土（鉢植え）
保水力がありながらも、比較的早く乾く植え込み材料を使います。ほとんどの場合は、水ゴケを使って素焼き鉢に植え込みます。プラスチック鉢を使う場合は、バークや軽石、バーク、ヤシ殻チップなどを混ぜたミックスコンポストを利用して植えましょう。鉢の中がいつまでもびっしょりとぬれていないようにすることが大切です。
植えつけ、 植え替え
2年に1回程度植え替えます。オンシジウムは生育が早く、すぐに鉢からはみ出すので、鉢からバルブが1つはみ出したぐらいで植え替えましょう。植え替えは、4月上旬に行うとよいでしょう。大株になったら、株分けも同時にできます。
ふやし方
株分けでふやすことができます。丈夫な洋ランですが、あまり小さく分けると生育が悪くなります。最低でも3バルブ以上で1株になるように、バルブを切り分けます。株分けの適期は、植え替え同様4月上旬ごろです。
主な作業
花芽が伸び始めたら、支柱を立てて花芽を引き起こしておきます。そのままでも開花しますが、横に伸びたり、小型種では下向きに垂れてしまうこともあります。より美しく観賞できるように、支柱を立てましょう。花が少し透けてきたり、ぱらぱらと落ち始めたら、花茎を株元で切ります。早めに切っておくと株に負担がかからず、次の新芽の生育がよくなります。
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Commonly called Zebra Plant, Haworthia attenuata is a cold-sensitive succulent species grown for its eye-catching, green and white textured leaves. It is hardy within U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10 and above and will produce an abundance of offshoots, or pups, once established in a sunny bed. The offshoots provide a simple and highly effective means of propagating new Zebra Plants if they are carefully removed and potted in a suitable growing mix. However, they should only be removed in spring or autumn when the plant is not actively growing, to reduce stress to both the offshoots and the parent plant.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
Locate the rooted offsets around the base of the zebra plant. Carefully scrape away the soil from around the base of the offshoots and look for small, pale pink or white roots.
Insert the blade of a gardening knife into the soil midway between the parent plant and the rooted offshoot. Slide the blade through the soil to sever the connecting root.
Etch out a 2-inch radius in the soil around the base of the rooted offshoot using the tip of your gardening knife. Dig down along the radial line to a 5-inch depth using a small handheld spade.
Insert the blade of the handheld spade at an angle underneath the rooted offshoot. Carefully pry it loose from the soil and remove it. Fill in the hole left by the offshoot to protect the parent plant’s roots.
Crumble off half the soil from around the offshoot’s rootball. Pot it in a small, 3- to 4-inch nursery container. Use a potting mix made up of 2 parts perlite, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part sterile compost.
Place the potted zebra plant offshoot where it will receive bright, diffuse light and temperatures above 68 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in a glasshouse, cold frame or indoors near a south-facing window.
Withhold watering for the first three days. Water only until the soil feels barely moist in the top inch. Maintain light, even moisture in the soil mixture, but allow it to dry out for a day or so once a week.
Remove Offsets From a Zebra Plant
Things You Will Need
Garden knife
Handheld spade
3- or 4-inch nursery container
Perlite
Coarse sand
Sterile compost
Tip
Unrooted Zebra Plant offsets can be rooted in pure perlite or coarse sand before planting, but they are subject to a high rate of die-off.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly called Jade Plant, is among the most common houseplants, although they are hardy outdoors to United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Native to southern Africa, this plant is easily recognized by its smooth, stubby, succulent leaves. They propagate easily from cuttings and because they are so tolerant of neglect, newly propagated Jade Plants make excellent gifts for new gardeners.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe is a succulent plant valued for its vivid, bright colors, and tightly clustered bouquets of little flowers. It’s hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, but makes an excellent indoor plant. Kalanchoe flowers can start losing their vibrancy in the second and third years of growth, but propagation methods are easy and can produce young, healthy varieties that grow from 36 to 48 inches (90 to 120 cm). The seeds from cross-pollination can produce some interesting hybrids as well, but there’s no guarantee that there will be a particular resemblance to the parent plants. If you want to give it a try and see what you get, seed propagation is right for you. If you would rather have more of the same plant, you can propagate Kalanchoe plants by using cuttings.
Seeds
Kalanchoe seeds are tiny, around 2.5 million per ounce. When you propagate Kalanchoe with seeds, you’ve got two options. The first is to purchase seeds from your local garden center or nursery. The second is to cross-pollinate two Kalanchoe or more in your perennial flower garden if you have them. You can crossbreed the two varieties and come up with a hybrid that can either have traits of the parent plants, traits of its own, or both. It’s always exciting to see what crossbreeding two Kalanchoe plants will bring you, and what colors you’ll see in your shrub.
To crossbreed, wait until you have two or more plants in full bloom. Use a small paintbrush or Q-tip to brush pollen from the stamen of one flower to the stigma of another, transferring from plant to plant. Since the flowers come in crowded bundles, it may be easiest to cut off a clump of them and pull them apart to get to the pollen.
The Kalanchoe seeds can go directly into warm, slightly moist soil made of half cactus mix and half fine potting soil. The warmth and the humidity of the dirt will activate the seed’s growth hormones and guide the sprout towards nutrients, thus giving you a baby Kalanchoe sprout.
Seeds should be placed in indirect light and kept at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds only when the soil appears dry. Do not over water! Germination should take around 10 days. Pinch the seedling back lightly at six to eight weeks. When they are 6 inches (15 cm) high, transplant the seedlings to their own individual 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pots and follow the care instructions below.
Leaf Cuttings
If you want to have the exact same plant in repetition in your garden, you can propagate Kalanchoe with leaf cuttings. Take your cuttings in early spring, using a pair of sharp garden shears to cut a few strong green shoots off of the Kalanchoe, 6 to 9 inches (15 to 22.5 cm) long. Strip the leaves off of the bottom 3 inches (7.5 cm) of the cutting. You should allow the cuttings to dry on the counter for around three days to let the cut side heal up. If you plant the cutting immediately, it will be susceptible to rot.
The soil requirement for cutting propagation is a cactus mix blended with some humus topsoil. Before planting, water the mix thoroughly and allow it to drain for half an hour so that the soil is moist for planting. Dig a small hole and stand the cutting upright, filling the hole in and pressing firmly so that it stands up on its own.
Avoid watering the Kalanchoe cutting for at least one week. This encourages the leaf to survive in rather dry conditions by rooting through the soil. The dirt you use should be permeable, well-drained and never overwatered. You should attempt to propagate multiple cuttings to achieve at least one viable seedling. Small plants will begin to grow from the base of the cutting after one month. Keep the seedlings moist, spraying them with filtered or rain water, but never letting it puddle.
Seedling Care
After a month or two gently dig the little Kalanchoe plants from their potting mix and transplant them into individual 1 or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) pots. Fill the pots with a mix of coarse sand, peat moss, and compost. Always put an inch of pebbles or broken pottery in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. They can now be treated like mature plants.
Kalanchoe need temperatures of between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 30 degrees Celsius) to thrive, and repeated exposure to colder temperatures will kill it. Keep your indoor Kalanchoe away from doors or drafts during the winter and consider using a radiator or small heating pad set on low to maintain these temperatures.
Kalanchoe love sun, but avoid direct sunlight in the summer when it can scald them. These environmental parameters should be used until transplantation. Your plants generally won’t be ready for a permanent home in your garden until they’re about two or three years old. They need to be between the adolescent and mature stage so that transplanting doesn’t shock the plant to death. If you do not live in UDSA hardiness zones 10 through 12, you have to keep your Kalanchoe as a houseplant permanently. Allow the soil to become dry between watering to avoid root rot, a common problem.
Whichever way you choose to propagate your Kalanchoe, you can reap all of the benefits of this low-maintenance plant. You can re-bloom it, you can gift adolescent plants to someone else to care for, and you can even forget to water them sometimes—they’ll forgive you, and they’ll even reward you with more blooms.
Seeds
Kalanchoe seeds are tiny, around 2.5 million per ounce. When you propagate Kalanchoe with seeds, you’ve got two options. The first is to purchase seeds from your local garden center or nursery. The second is to cross-pollinate two Kalanchoe or more in your perennial flower garden if you have them. You can crossbreed the two varieties and come up with a hybrid that can either have traits of the parent plants, traits of its own, or both. It’s always exciting to see what crossbreeding two Kalanchoe plants will bring you, and what colors you’ll see in your shrub.
To crossbreed, wait until you have two or more plants in full bloom. Use a small paintbrush or Q-tip to brush pollen from the stamen of one flower to the stigma of another, transferring from plant to plant. Since the flowers come in crowded bundles, it may be easiest to cut off a clump of them and pull them apart to get to the pollen.
The Kalanchoe seeds can go directly into warm, slightly moist soil made of half cactus mix and half fine potting soil. The warmth and the humidity of the dirt will activate the seed’s growth hormones and guide the sprout towards nutrients, thus giving you a baby Kalanchoe sprout.
Seeds should be placed in indirect light and kept at temperatures between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 24 degrees Celsius). Fill a clean spray bottle with filtered or rain water and mist the seeds only when the soil appears dry. Do not over water! Germination should take around 10 days. Pinch the seedling back lightly at six to eight weeks. When they are 6 inches (15 cm) high, transplant the seedlings to their own individual 1 to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) pots and follow the care instructions below.
Leaf Cuttings
If you want to have the exact same plant in repetition in your garden, you can propagate Kalanchoe with leaf cuttings. Take your cuttings in early spring, using a pair of sharp garden shears to cut a few strong green shoots off of the Kalanchoe, 6 to 9 inches (15 to 22.5 cm) long. Strip the leaves off of the bottom 3 inches (7.5 cm) of the cutting. You should allow the cuttings to dry on the counter for around three days to let the cut side heal up. If you plant the cutting immediately, it will be susceptible to rot.
The soil requirement for cutting propagation is a cactus mix blended with some humus topsoil. Before planting, water the mix thoroughly and allow it to drain for half an hour so that the soil is moist for planting. Dig a small hole and stand the cutting upright, filling the hole in and pressing firmly so that it stands up on its own.
Avoid watering the Kalanchoe cutting for at least one week. This encourages the leaf to survive in rather dry conditions by rooting through the soil. The dirt you use should be permeable, well-drained and never overwatered. You should attempt to propagate multiple cuttings to achieve at least one viable seedling. Small plants will begin to grow from the base of the cutting after one month. Keep the seedlings moist, spraying them with filtered or rain water, but never letting it puddle.
Seedling Care
After a month or two gently dig the little Kalanchoe plants from their potting mix and transplant them into individual 1 or 2-inch (2.5 or 5 cm) pots. Fill the pots with a mix of coarse sand, peat moss, and compost. Always put an inch of pebbles or broken pottery in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage. They can now be treated like mature plants.
Kalanchoe need temperatures of between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit (15 and 30 degrees Celsius) to thrive, and repeated exposure to colder temperatures will kill it. Keep your indoor Kalanchoe away from doors or drafts during the winter and consider using a radiator or small heating pad set on low to maintain these temperatures.
Kalanchoe love sun, but avoid direct sunlight in the summer when it can scald them. These environmental parameters should be used until transplantation. Your plants generally won’t be ready for a permanent home in your garden until they’re about two or three years old. They need to be between the adolescent and mature stage so that transplanting doesn’t shock the plant to death. If you do not live in UDSA hardiness zones 10 through 12, you have to keep your Kalanchoe as a houseplant permanently. Allow the soil to become dry between watering to avoid root rot, a common problem.
Whichever way you choose to propagate your Kalanchoe, you can reap all of the benefits of this low-maintenance plant. You can re-bloom it, you can gift adolescent plants to someone else to care for, and you can even forget to water them sometimes—they’ll forgive you, and they’ll even reward you with more blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, also known as Flaming Katy is a tropical succulent that is native to Madagascar. This flowering plant is most commonly grown as a houseplant but grows well outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. A short-day plant, Flaming Katy produces blooms during the winter months. Young Flaming Katy plants have smooth stems and thick leaves. The plant roots readily from a vegetative shoot and many growers use this type of propagation for Kalanchoe blossfeldiana production. Commercial growers use intermittent mist and heat mats to propagate Flaming Katy, but you can make Flaming Katy cuttings without a professional setup.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
1. Cut cleanly through a vegetative stem of the Kalanchoe blossfeldiana. This is a stem that has no flower growth. Make the cutting at least 3 inches (8 cm) long. Set the cutting in an empty pot for two or three days to allow a callous to form over the cut flesh of the stem. The callous keeps the cutting from rotting in the growing medium.
2. Mix together equal parts of sand, perlite and peat moss to create a quality growing medium for Flaming Katy cuttings. Fill a sterile pot with the growing medium and water the medium lightly. The size of the pot dictates how many cuttings you root per pot. Pots that are 3 or 4 inches (8 or 10 cm) around hold one cutting, while 5- or 6-inch (13 or 15 cm) pots hold two or three cuttings.
3. Make a hole in the growing medium and stick the calloused cutting into the hole. Firm the soil around the cutting to keep the Flaming Katy upright. Set the pot in a bright location that has an average temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Avoid direct sunlight on the cuttings.
4. Mist the cuttings several times per day. Remove cuttings that show signs of fungal growth. Check for roots after about two weeks. Gently pull on the cuttings to feel for some type of resistance that would signify root growth.
5. Transplant the new Kalanchoe blossfeldiana plants into separate growing pots when the roots have reached about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length. Treat the plant as a seedling for the first few weeks. In other words, avoid drafts, direct sunlight and drought conditions. When you see new growth on the Flaming Katy plants, place them as desired in the home.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Originally from Africa, the Jade Tree (Crassula ovata) is a fleshy, softly woody shrub or small tree up to 10 feet (3 m). The Jade Tree has a thick trunk and a fine branch structure with thick oval green succulent leaves. During autumn sometimes small white flowers appear, but only when the tree has experienced droughts in the season. The bark is green and soft when young, becoming red-brown when it ages.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
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权问薇
2017年09月22日
扦插分类：
#巴西木 的繁殖方法最常见的就是扦插方法，扦插方法也分两种：柱状扦插与细枝扦插。
扦插方法：
柱状扦插方法：
选用直径为6厘米至10厘米的树干进行扦插，10厘米以上也可以，但要保持树干的新鲜，数皮的颜色以浅黄色为宜；土壤约30厘米深即可；在扦插前要对基质进行消毒；树干插入土壤的深度约为10厘米至25厘米之间，这个可以根据树干的牢固性来调节；若扦插的树干高度达到1米以上时，为了扦插的牢固，可以用其它主式为其固定。扦插时要保持土壤的潮湿度与温雅，同时也要避开午间前后的阳光；扦插后要及时浇水，约一个月左右就可以看见新芽生出；在新芽长至5厘米至10厘米高，就可定植了。
细枝扦插方法：
此方法可以与植物的修剪相结合，修剪下来的枝条即可扦插，在植物生长至一定的高度时，就要将高处的部分枝条剪下用来扦插。扦插前先把枝条修剪成合适的长度，在进行扦插；扦插前同样要对各种土壤容器工具进行消毒，避免造成枝条受病害。扦插时可以选择横插与直插，在25度至30度的温度中，大约一个月左右就可以生长新的根系。
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Miss Chen
2017年09月22日
La margarita (Bellis perennis) es conocida por todo el mundo, le guste la jardinería o no. Pero seguro que no todo el mundo estará al tanto de estas 10 curiosidades sobre las margaritas que hemos recopilado en este artículo. Nunca está de más conocer un poco más a nuestras plantas favoritas.
Margarita, maya o chiribita son sólo algunos de los nombres comunes de esta planta y por extensión de sus flores. Margarita proviene de la palabra latina homónima que significa “perla” y el nombre de maya hace referencia al mes de mayo pues es en el que florecen las margaritas en el hemisferio norte.
En realidad la inflorescencia de la margarita está formada por muchas pequeñas flores. La parte central del disco floral está ocupado por decenas o centenares de pequeñas flores hermafroditas y la parte externa por flores liguladas femeninas.
La margarita representa la inocencia, entre los significados que se atribuían en la Inglaterra Victoriana a las flores, por ello los niños la usaban para elaborar las coronas florales de Mayo. En distintas poblaciones españoles se usan en dicho mes para las conocidas Cruces de Mayo.
Las margaritas son pequeñas flores pero muy abundantes. Se considera que casi el 10% de todas las plantas con flor de todo el planeta son margaritas.
La margarita pertenece a la misma familia que los girasoles, la de las Asteráceas, por lo tienen necesidades similares y precisan cuidados parecidos.
Las margaritas que todos conocemos tienen los pétalos blancos y el disco floral amarillo pero en la actualidad podemos encontrar variedades y cultivares en diversos colores. Así es fácil conseguir margaritas con pétalos de color amarillo, naranja, rojo, rosa y morado entre otros.
El significado que se les atribuye a las margaritas varía con el color de sus pétalos. Así que hemos dicho que el blanco representa inocencia pero también humildad, las margaritas amarillas son símbolo de amistad y las de tonos azulados apertura y paz.
A diferencia de las pobres orquídeas que prácticamente tienen que engañar a las abejas para que las polinicen, las margaritas simplemente luciendo su llamativo disco floral son capaces de atraer con gran facilidad a estos laboriosos insectos.
Oriundas de Europa, las margaritas se han extendido por Asia Menor, América y Nueva Zelanda. Puede crecer en prácticamente cualquier lugar, prados, arroyos, bosques de pinos sobre todo y en los márgenes de los caminos. Es resistente a las heladas y una planta muy rústica.
La margarita es la protagonista de una costumbre relacionada con el amor, deshojar la margarita es el nombre que recibe a este juego infantil en el que se pregunta “me quiere” “no me quiere” alternativamente mientras se arrancan los pétalos uno a uno. En Milán se reunieron el mayor número de personas, 331, para proceder a deshojar margaritas a la vez el 18 de abril de 2009.
Margarita, maya o chiribita son sólo algunos de los nombres comunes de esta planta y por extensión de sus flores. Margarita proviene de la palabra latina homónima que significa “perla” y el nombre de maya hace referencia al mes de mayo pues es en el que florecen las margaritas en el hemisferio norte.
En realidad la inflorescencia de la margarita está formada por muchas pequeñas flores. La parte central del disco floral está ocupado por decenas o centenares de pequeñas flores hermafroditas y la parte externa por flores liguladas femeninas.
La margarita representa la inocencia, entre los significados que se atribuían en la Inglaterra Victoriana a las flores, por ello los niños la usaban para elaborar las coronas florales de Mayo. En distintas poblaciones españoles se usan en dicho mes para las conocidas Cruces de Mayo.
Las margaritas son pequeñas flores pero muy abundantes. Se considera que casi el 10% de todas las plantas con flor de todo el planeta son margaritas.
La margarita pertenece a la misma familia que los girasoles, la de las Asteráceas, por lo tienen necesidades similares y precisan cuidados parecidos.
Las margaritas que todos conocemos tienen los pétalos blancos y el disco floral amarillo pero en la actualidad podemos encontrar variedades y cultivares en diversos colores. Así es fácil conseguir margaritas con pétalos de color amarillo, naranja, rojo, rosa y morado entre otros.
El significado que se les atribuye a las margaritas varía con el color de sus pétalos. Así que hemos dicho que el blanco representa inocencia pero también humildad, las margaritas amarillas son símbolo de amistad y las de tonos azulados apertura y paz.
A diferencia de las pobres orquídeas que prácticamente tienen que engañar a las abejas para que las polinicen, las margaritas simplemente luciendo su llamativo disco floral son capaces de atraer con gran facilidad a estos laboriosos insectos.
Oriundas de Europa, las margaritas se han extendido por Asia Menor, América y Nueva Zelanda. Puede crecer en prácticamente cualquier lugar, prados, arroyos, bosques de pinos sobre todo y en los márgenes de los caminos. Es resistente a las heladas y una planta muy rústica.
La margarita es la protagonista de una costumbre relacionada con el amor, deshojar la margarita es el nombre que recibe a este juego infantil en el que se pregunta “me quiere” “no me quiere” alternativamente mientras se arrancan los pétalos uno a uno. En Milán se reunieron el mayor número de personas, 331, para proceder a deshojar margaritas a la vez el 18 de abril de 2009.
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