🦄Nana🌸
2017年09月09日
10月9日种的小多肉们 上盆步骤：这个详情
1.种下3天后再浇水，浇湿土壤表面即可（刚种下浇太多水根系也吸收不了营养，长时间水份得不挥发很容易烂根）
2.后期浇水是土壤干透再浇透，不干透不浇（浇透为指的是浇至底部排水孔流水为止，夏天浇水最好的时间段为傍晚和晚上，冬天则为白天浇水最好）
3、正常浇透一次大概需要10-15天左右会干透(具体看各地气候和土壤保水性，如果光照不足阴雨天则更需拉长浇水间隔）
Ps:如果不懂得土是否干透了，在土内插一支牙签，2小时后拔出没有水汽现象就干透了，这样重复几次，自然也可以掌握浇水的规律和时间，以后没有竹签也不担心了。
日照问题：
多肉基本上都是喜阳的，它们都符合一个原则，越晒越美丽（温差大的环境里）平均日照时间超过5小时最佳（夏天避免暴晒）
1.已进入秋冬天了（28度以下的温度）是可以全日照的。
2.夏天尽量避免暴晒（避免晒大中午的日照或者可以晒下午4点以后的阳光，然后足部增强光照）服盆之后春秋冬季就尽量多晒！！
1.种下3天后再浇水，浇湿土壤表面即可（刚种下浇太多水根系也吸收不了营养，长时间水份得不挥发很容易烂根）
2.后期浇水是土壤干透再浇透，不干透不浇（浇透为指的是浇至底部排水孔流水为止，夏天浇水最好的时间段为傍晚和晚上，冬天则为白天浇水最好）
3、正常浇透一次大概需要10-15天左右会干透(具体看各地气候和土壤保水性，如果光照不足阴雨天则更需拉长浇水间隔）
Ps:如果不懂得土是否干透了，在土内插一支牙签，2小时后拔出没有水汽现象就干透了，这样重复几次，自然也可以掌握浇水的规律和时间，以后没有竹签也不担心了。
日照问题：
多肉基本上都是喜阳的，它们都符合一个原则，越晒越美丽（温差大的环境里）平均日照时间超过5小时最佳（夏天避免暴晒）
1.已进入秋冬天了（28度以下的温度）是可以全日照的。
2.夏天尽量避免暴晒（避免晒大中午的日照或者可以晒下午4点以后的阳光，然后足部增强光照）服盆之后春秋冬季就尽量多晒！！
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月03日
El saúco es un arbusto o árbol de hoja perenne, de entre 2 y 10 metros de alto. Prefiere zonas soleadas o parcialmente sombreadas, suelos frescos y con cierta humedad. Se siembra en otoño o primavera, también se puede reproducir por esquejes. Sus hojas son dentadas y desprenden un olor poco agradable. Las flores se disponen en falsa umbela con 5 pétalos, 5 sépalos y 5 estambres con anteras amarillas. Las bayas son verdes primero y negras cuando maduran. El tallo es hueco y frágil, con una médula blanca. No se debe confundir con su pariente el sauquillo o yezgo (Sambucus ebulus), cuyos frutos tienen una apariencia similar, pero son venenosos. Es fácil, no obstante, diferenciar ambas plantas, pues mientras el saúco es un arbusto, el sauquillo es una planta herbácea de no más de 2 m. de alto.
El saúco se cultivó en jardines durante mucho tiempo. Aunque el olor de sus hojas no es agradable, entre finales de primavera y principios de verano se cubre de bonitas flores blancas.
Sus raíces segregaban auxinas que enriquecían la vida vegetal. Repele a diversos insectos, ratones, topos y otros roedores. Sus ramas son nidos de variadas especies de avispas predadoras, que controlan la proliferación de otros insectos como pulgones, orugas etc., lo que resulta muy interesante para el control ecolóigco de plagas en el huerto.
LOCALIZACIÓN
El Saúco es una especie abundante en Europa, América, Asia y Norte de África. Siendo los españoles, los que lo llevaron y propagaron por América, donde se halla bien establecido en muchos países. Crece en bosques frondosos, entre la maleza, en vertederos y alrededores de zonas habitadas.
Junto a él, sólo son capaces de existir otras plantas con costumbres similares tales como ortigas, zarzas y plantas trepadoras, ello se debe a que crea una espesura en sus pies bastante sombría. Aunque sobrevive a toda costa, nunca se ven bosques enteros de Saúco. Mas bien al contrario, pues como sibarita del suelo que es, escoge para instalarse suelos profundos, ricos y húmedos
ÉPOCA DE FLORACIÓN´:
A mediados de Abril y mes de Mayo. En regiones frías, en Junio o Julio
COSECHA
Flores: Mayo
Frutos: Agosto a Septiembre
.
RECOLECCIÓN:
FLORES : Las flores se recogen de mayo a julio, se extienden en un lugar abrigado y se dejan secar.
COMPOSICIÓN QUÍMICA:
Aceites esenciales, taninos, flavonoides, carotenos, ácido fenólico, glucósidos, rutina, sambunigrina, vitamina C y B
PROPIEDADES:
Sudorífico, ligeramente laxante, antiespasmódico, sedante.
CONTRAINDICACIONES:
Los frutos del saúcodeben de consumirse siempre maduros, pues verdes son tóxicos
El saúco carece de efectos secundarios y en dosis correctas, es inocuo.
Al parecer, no tiene interacciones con medicamentos ni con remedios herbales, aunque habrá que tener cuidado en niños muy pequeños, mujeres embarazadas, enfermos del hígado y riñones.
USOS
• Los frutos y las flores de saúco son comestibles. Los primeros se pueden preparar en zumos, mermeladas, salsas, sopas, jarabes, vinos, licores, etc.(uso interno)
• El saúco es uno de los mejores sudoríficos (uso interno). Se emplea habitualmente en forma de infusión para tratar resfriados, gripes, enfriamientos, catarros de vías respiratorias superiores y también se puede tomar como medica preventiva de estas afecciones (uso interno)
• Excelente para bajar la fiebre, y calmar las congestiones de las vías respiratorias. (uso interno-externo)
• Para el tratamiento del dolor de garganta. (uso interno)
• Su corteza tiene propiedades diuréticas. (uso interno)
• Para tratar ligeros trastornos nerviosos, causantes de insomnio, migrañas o dolores de cabeza. (uso interno)
• En inflamaciones dolorosas como reuma, artritis o gota; pues es ligeramente analgésico. Además de sus ya comentadas propiedades diuréticas y depurativas. (uso interno – externo)
• Sus frutos frescos y maduros se usan en tisanas adelgazantes.
(uso interno)
• Como buen laxantes, es eficaz contra el estreñimiento. (uso interno)
• Para combatir las enfermedades hepáticas. (uso interno)
• Es un depurador de la sangre, provocando efectos beneficiosos para problemas de la piel como eccemas y dermatitis. (uso interno)
• También se usa en compresas para hematomas, contusiones y torceduras. (uso externo)
• Eficaz para tratar las hemorragias nasales. (uso externo)
• En aplicación externa, da buenos resultados para combatir las hemorroides, los furúnculos y la erisipela; colocando sobre la parte afectada un algodón o compresa, empapado con la infusión. (uso externo)
• Aplicando una loción con el jugo extraído por presión de las hojas tiernas, cura y desinfecta heridas, quemaduras, rozaduras o sabañones. (uso externo)
• Si nos lavamos con una ligera infusión, contribuye a eliminar las manchas de la cara y los granos. (uso externo)
• En conjuntivitis, aplicando sobre la zona afectada una cataplasma de sus hojas tiernas. Además de emplear compresas, también podemos realizar lavados de ojos con la infusión de las flores. (uso externo
• Para realizar enjuagues bucales contra la piorrea. (uso externo
• Si introducimos el vapor resultante de la cocción de un puñado de flores secas de Saúco en nuestro oído, aliviaremos los dolores de oídos. (uso externo)
• Si frotamos sobre la piel algunas hojas frescas de Saúco, que son insecticidas, repeleremos las moscas. (uso externo)
• Antiguamente se colgaban ramas de saúco en aquellos lugares donde existían animales, como caballerizas y establos, con la intención de expulsar a moscas y otros insectos volátiles. (uso externo)
• Las hojas quemadas se han empleado como insecticida y la infusión de las hojas se empleó como repelente de mosquitos y, rociada sobre las plantas, para protegerlas de pulgones y orugas.
Sus flores se administran en infusión y pueden combinarse con menta, eucalipto y equinácea, sin efectos secundarios conocidos.
RECETAS:
• Licor de saúco.
Ingredientes: 1,5 Kg. de bayas de saúco, ¾ de litro de aguardiente o coñac u otro licor, 750gr de azúcar integral ecológico, 4 clavos de especia, 1 barrita de canela en rama.
Se echan las bayas en una botella de cuello ancho y se cubren con el aguardiente, se tapa y se deja reposar 6 semanas. Se cuela y se prensan los frutos para obtener todo el jugo, al cual se le añade, en una cacerola, el azúcar, los clavos y la canela. Se hierve a fuego lento durante 15 minutos. Se llenan las botellas y se deja reposar unas semanas antes de tomarlo.
• La infusión de flores de saúco, se prepara con dos cucharaditas llenas de flores frescas o secas en ¼ litro de agua hirviendo. Se deja reposar unos minutos y se toma tres veces al día.
La infusión de las hojas tiene propiedades parecidas, pero su olor no es demasiado agradable. Se prepara de forma similar, con dos cucharaditas rasas de hojas.
El saúco se cultivó en jardines durante mucho tiempo. Aunque el olor de sus hojas no es agradable, entre finales de primavera y principios de verano se cubre de bonitas flores blancas.
Sus raíces segregaban auxinas que enriquecían la vida vegetal. Repele a diversos insectos, ratones, topos y otros roedores. Sus ramas son nidos de variadas especies de avispas predadoras, que controlan la proliferación de otros insectos como pulgones, orugas etc., lo que resulta muy interesante para el control ecolóigco de plagas en el huerto.
LOCALIZACIÓN
El Saúco es una especie abundante en Europa, América, Asia y Norte de África. Siendo los españoles, los que lo llevaron y propagaron por América, donde se halla bien establecido en muchos países. Crece en bosques frondosos, entre la maleza, en vertederos y alrededores de zonas habitadas.
Junto a él, sólo son capaces de existir otras plantas con costumbres similares tales como ortigas, zarzas y plantas trepadoras, ello se debe a que crea una espesura en sus pies bastante sombría. Aunque sobrevive a toda costa, nunca se ven bosques enteros de Saúco. Mas bien al contrario, pues como sibarita del suelo que es, escoge para instalarse suelos profundos, ricos y húmedos
ÉPOCA DE FLORACIÓN´:
A mediados de Abril y mes de Mayo. En regiones frías, en Junio o Julio
COSECHA
Flores: Mayo
Frutos: Agosto a Septiembre
.
RECOLECCIÓN:
FLORES : Las flores se recogen de mayo a julio, se extienden en un lugar abrigado y se dejan secar.
COMPOSICIÓN QUÍMICA:
Aceites esenciales, taninos, flavonoides, carotenos, ácido fenólico, glucósidos, rutina, sambunigrina, vitamina C y B
PROPIEDADES:
Sudorífico, ligeramente laxante, antiespasmódico, sedante.
CONTRAINDICACIONES:
Los frutos del saúcodeben de consumirse siempre maduros, pues verdes son tóxicos
El saúco carece de efectos secundarios y en dosis correctas, es inocuo.
Al parecer, no tiene interacciones con medicamentos ni con remedios herbales, aunque habrá que tener cuidado en niños muy pequeños, mujeres embarazadas, enfermos del hígado y riñones.
USOS
• Los frutos y las flores de saúco son comestibles. Los primeros se pueden preparar en zumos, mermeladas, salsas, sopas, jarabes, vinos, licores, etc.(uso interno)
• El saúco es uno de los mejores sudoríficos (uso interno). Se emplea habitualmente en forma de infusión para tratar resfriados, gripes, enfriamientos, catarros de vías respiratorias superiores y también se puede tomar como medica preventiva de estas afecciones (uso interno)
• Excelente para bajar la fiebre, y calmar las congestiones de las vías respiratorias. (uso interno-externo)
• Para el tratamiento del dolor de garganta. (uso interno)
• Su corteza tiene propiedades diuréticas. (uso interno)
• Para tratar ligeros trastornos nerviosos, causantes de insomnio, migrañas o dolores de cabeza. (uso interno)
• En inflamaciones dolorosas como reuma, artritis o gota; pues es ligeramente analgésico. Además de sus ya comentadas propiedades diuréticas y depurativas. (uso interno – externo)
• Sus frutos frescos y maduros se usan en tisanas adelgazantes.
(uso interno)
• Como buen laxantes, es eficaz contra el estreñimiento. (uso interno)
• Para combatir las enfermedades hepáticas. (uso interno)
• Es un depurador de la sangre, provocando efectos beneficiosos para problemas de la piel como eccemas y dermatitis. (uso interno)
• También se usa en compresas para hematomas, contusiones y torceduras. (uso externo)
• Eficaz para tratar las hemorragias nasales. (uso externo)
• En aplicación externa, da buenos resultados para combatir las hemorroides, los furúnculos y la erisipela; colocando sobre la parte afectada un algodón o compresa, empapado con la infusión. (uso externo)
• Aplicando una loción con el jugo extraído por presión de las hojas tiernas, cura y desinfecta heridas, quemaduras, rozaduras o sabañones. (uso externo)
• Si nos lavamos con una ligera infusión, contribuye a eliminar las manchas de la cara y los granos. (uso externo)
• En conjuntivitis, aplicando sobre la zona afectada una cataplasma de sus hojas tiernas. Además de emplear compresas, también podemos realizar lavados de ojos con la infusión de las flores. (uso externo
• Para realizar enjuagues bucales contra la piorrea. (uso externo
• Si introducimos el vapor resultante de la cocción de un puñado de flores secas de Saúco en nuestro oído, aliviaremos los dolores de oídos. (uso externo)
• Si frotamos sobre la piel algunas hojas frescas de Saúco, que son insecticidas, repeleremos las moscas. (uso externo)
• Antiguamente se colgaban ramas de saúco en aquellos lugares donde existían animales, como caballerizas y establos, con la intención de expulsar a moscas y otros insectos volátiles. (uso externo)
• Las hojas quemadas se han empleado como insecticida y la infusión de las hojas se empleó como repelente de mosquitos y, rociada sobre las plantas, para protegerlas de pulgones y orugas.
Sus flores se administran en infusión y pueden combinarse con menta, eucalipto y equinácea, sin efectos secundarios conocidos.
RECETAS:
• Licor de saúco.
Ingredientes: 1,5 Kg. de bayas de saúco, ¾ de litro de aguardiente o coñac u otro licor, 750gr de azúcar integral ecológico, 4 clavos de especia, 1 barrita de canela en rama.
Se echan las bayas en una botella de cuello ancho y se cubren con el aguardiente, se tapa y se deja reposar 6 semanas. Se cuela y se prensan los frutos para obtener todo el jugo, al cual se le añade, en una cacerola, el azúcar, los clavos y la canela. Se hierve a fuego lento durante 15 minutos. Se llenan las botellas y se deja reposar unas semanas antes de tomarlo.
• La infusión de flores de saúco, se prepara con dos cucharaditas llenas de flores frescas o secas en ¼ litro de agua hirviendo. Se deja reposar unos minutos y se toma tres veces al día.
La infusión de las hojas tiene propiedades parecidas, pero su olor no es demasiado agradable. Se prepara de forma similar, con dos cucharaditas rasas de hojas.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The mahogany tree (Swietenia mahagnoni) is such a lovely shade tree that it’s too bad it can only grow in USDA zones 10 and 11. That means that if you want to see a mahogany tree in the United States, you’ll need to head to Southern Florida. These attractive, fragrant trees form rounded, symmetrical crowns and make excellent shade trees. For more information about mahogany trees and mahogany tree uses, read on.
Mahogany Tree Information
If you read information about mahogany trees, you’ll find them both interesting and attractive. The mahogany is a large, semi-evergreen tree with a canopy that casts dappled shade. It is a popular landscape tree in Southern Florida.
Mahogany tree facts describe the trees as being very tall. They can grow 200 feet in height with leaves some 20 inches long, but it’s more common to see them growing to 50 feet or less. Mahogany tree information suggests that wood is dense, and the tree can hold its own in strong winds. This makes it useful as a street tree, and trees planted in medians form attractive canopies overhead.
Additional Mahogany Tree Facts
Mahogany tree information includes a description of the blossoms. These heat-loving ornamentals produce small, fragrant clusters of flowers. The blossoms are either white or yellow-green and grow in clusters. Both male and female flowers grow on the same tree. You can tell male from female flowers because male stamens are tube-shaped. The flowers bloom in late spring and early summer. Moths and bees love the flowers and serve to pollinate them. In time, woody fruit capsules grow in and are brown, pear-shaped and five inches long. They are suspended from fuzzy stalks in winter. When they split, they release the winged seeds that propagate the species.
Where Do Mahogany Trees Grow?
Where do mahogany trees grow, gardeners ask. Mahogany trees thrive in very warm climates. They are native to South Florida as well as the Bahamas and the Caribbean. The tree is also nicknamed Cuban mahogany and West Indian mahogany. They were introduced into Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands over two centuries ago. Mahogany trees continue thriving in those places.
Mahogany tree uses vary from the ornamental to the practical. First and foremost, mahogany trees are used as shade and ornamental trees. They are planted in backyards, parks, on medians and as street trees. The trees are also raised and felled for their hard, durable wood. It is used to make cabinets and furniture. The species is getting increasingly rare and has been added to Florida’s endangered species list.
Mahogany Tree Information
If you read information about mahogany trees, you’ll find them both interesting and attractive. The mahogany is a large, semi-evergreen tree with a canopy that casts dappled shade. It is a popular landscape tree in Southern Florida.
Mahogany tree facts describe the trees as being very tall. They can grow 200 feet in height with leaves some 20 inches long, but it’s more common to see them growing to 50 feet or less. Mahogany tree information suggests that wood is dense, and the tree can hold its own in strong winds. This makes it useful as a street tree, and trees planted in medians form attractive canopies overhead.
Additional Mahogany Tree Facts
Mahogany tree information includes a description of the blossoms. These heat-loving ornamentals produce small, fragrant clusters of flowers. The blossoms are either white or yellow-green and grow in clusters. Both male and female flowers grow on the same tree. You can tell male from female flowers because male stamens are tube-shaped. The flowers bloom in late spring and early summer. Moths and bees love the flowers and serve to pollinate them. In time, woody fruit capsules grow in and are brown, pear-shaped and five inches long. They are suspended from fuzzy stalks in winter. When they split, they release the winged seeds that propagate the species.
Where Do Mahogany Trees Grow?
Where do mahogany trees grow, gardeners ask. Mahogany trees thrive in very warm climates. They are native to South Florida as well as the Bahamas and the Caribbean. The tree is also nicknamed Cuban mahogany and West Indian mahogany. They were introduced into Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands over two centuries ago. Mahogany trees continue thriving in those places.
Mahogany tree uses vary from the ornamental to the practical. First and foremost, mahogany trees are used as shade and ornamental trees. They are planted in backyards, parks, on medians and as street trees. The trees are also raised and felled for their hard, durable wood. It is used to make cabinets and furniture. The species is getting increasingly rare and has been added to Florida’s endangered species list.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The flamboyant flame tree (Delonix regia) provides welcome shade and spectacular color in the warm climates of USDA zone 10 and above. Showy black seedpods measuring up to 26 inches in length decorate the tree in winter. The attractive, semi-deciduous leaves are elegant and fern-like. Read on to learn more about flame trees.
What is a Flame Tree?
Also known as royal Poinciana or flamboyant tree, flame tree is one of the world’s most colorful trees. Every spring, the tree produces clusters of long-lasting, orange-red blooms with yellow, burgundy or white markings. Each bloom, which measures up to 5 inches across, displays five spoon-shaped petals. Flame tree reaches heights of 30 to 50 feet, and the width of the umbrella-like canopy is often wider than the tree’s height.
Where do Flame Trees Grow?
Flame trees, which don’t tolerate temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.), grow in Mexico, South and Central America, Asia and other tropical and subtropical climates around the world. Although flame tree often grows wild in deciduous forests, it is an endangered species in some areas, such as Madagascar. In India, Pakistan and Nepal, the tree is known as “Gulmohar.” In the United States, flame tree grows primarily in Hawaii, Florida, Arizona and Southern California.
Delonix Flame Tree Care
Flame trees perform best in large, open spaces and full sunlight. Plant the tree in a big landscape where it has room to spread; the roots are sturdy enough to lift asphalt. Also, keep in mind that the tree drops spent blooms and seed pods that require raking. The flamboyant flame tree benefits from consistent moisture during the first growing season. After that time, young trees appreciate watering once or twice per week during dry weather. Well-established trees require very little supplemental irrigation.
Otherwise, Delonix flame tree care is limited to an annual feeding in spring. Use a complete fertilizer with a ratio such as 8-4-12 or 7-3-7. Prune out damaged wood after blooming ends in late summer, beginning when the tree is about one year old. Avoid severe pruning, which can put a stop to blooming for as long as three years.
What is a Flame Tree?
Also known as royal Poinciana or flamboyant tree, flame tree is one of the world’s most colorful trees. Every spring, the tree produces clusters of long-lasting, orange-red blooms with yellow, burgundy or white markings. Each bloom, which measures up to 5 inches across, displays five spoon-shaped petals. Flame tree reaches heights of 30 to 50 feet, and the width of the umbrella-like canopy is often wider than the tree’s height.
Where do Flame Trees Grow?
Flame trees, which don’t tolerate temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.), grow in Mexico, South and Central America, Asia and other tropical and subtropical climates around the world. Although flame tree often grows wild in deciduous forests, it is an endangered species in some areas, such as Madagascar. In India, Pakistan and Nepal, the tree is known as “Gulmohar.” In the United States, flame tree grows primarily in Hawaii, Florida, Arizona and Southern California.
Delonix Flame Tree Care
Flame trees perform best in large, open spaces and full sunlight. Plant the tree in a big landscape where it has room to spread; the roots are sturdy enough to lift asphalt. Also, keep in mind that the tree drops spent blooms and seed pods that require raking. The flamboyant flame tree benefits from consistent moisture during the first growing season. After that time, young trees appreciate watering once or twice per week during dry weather. Well-established trees require very little supplemental irrigation.
Otherwise, Delonix flame tree care is limited to an annual feeding in spring. Use a complete fertilizer with a ratio such as 8-4-12 or 7-3-7. Prune out damaged wood after blooming ends in late summer, beginning when the tree is about one year old. Avoid severe pruning, which can put a stop to blooming for as long as three years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Chinese perfume tree (Aglaia odorata) is a small evergreen tree in the mahogany family. It is an ornamental plant in American gardens, typically growing to 10 feet or under and producing intensely fragrant sprays of unusual yellow flowers. If you want to start growing Chinese perfume trees, read on for information on these lovely plants and for tips on Chinese perfume tree care.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
Chinese Perfume Tree Facts
Chinese perfume trees, also called Aglaia odorata plants, are native to low regions of China. They also grow in Taiwan, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The plant’s genus name comes from Greek mythology. Aglaia was the name of one of the three Graces.
In the wild, Aglaia ordorata plants can grow to 20 feet high. They grow in thickets or sparse forests. In the United States, they grow only in cultivation and are often planted for their fragrant blossoms.
You’ll find some interesting Chinese perfume tree facts when you read about those blossoms. The tiny yellow flowers—each about the size and shape of a grain of rice—grow in panicles about 2 to 4 inches long. They are shaped like tiny balls but do not open when the flowers bloom. The scent exuded by Chinese perfume tree flowers is sweet and lemony. It is stronger during the day than at night.
Growing Chinese Perfume Trees
If you are growing Chinese perfume trees, you need to know that an individual tree will bear either male or female flowers. Both types of flowers are fragrant, but only a pollinated female flower produces the fruit, a small berry with one seed inside. Chinese perfume tree care begins with planting the tree in an appropriate location. The trees are only hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. In cooler regions, you can grow Aglaia odorata plants in containers and move them indoors when temperatures drop. The trees will need well-draining soil and a location with full or partial sun. Plant them in a location with some shade if your region is hot in the summer.
Container plants brought inside should be located next to sunny windows. They’ll need moderate but regular irrigation. The soil must dry out between watering times.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Brugmansia is an eye-catching flowering plant native to Central and South Americas. The plant is also known as angel trumpet due to its 10-inch long blooms. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a monster of a plant and can grow up to 12 feet tall. These plants are not winter hardy but can be grown as annuals in northern climates in the summer. Growing brugmansia in ground works well in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 12. Try a brugmansia in the garden for show-stopping color and dynamic proportions.
Brugmansia Angel Trumpet
Brugmansia are a popular collector’s plant. There are seven species of brugmansia but innumerable cultivars. The seven species are listed as extinct in the wild and today these plants are grown as ornamental specimens.
Brugmansia are heavy feeders and require quite a bit of water. Good brugmansia plant care will result in a small tree decorated with dangling trumpet-shaped flowers. Caring for brugmansia outdoors requires warm temperatures and a sunny location with protection from midday sun.
Brugmansia are divided into two groups that are genetically and regionally different. The warm group prefers warmer, sunny locations while the cool group flowers best in cooler temperatures. Both groups produce massive, woody stemmed plants with alternate toothed leaves, up to 12 inches long. The gigantic blooms are pendant and may be white, pink, yellow, orange, green or red with single, double or even triple petals. The flowers are very showy and often bear an attractive scent. Most brugmansia are pollinated by butterflies and they have a host relationship with many species. One brugmansia species is pollinated by a hummingbird.
Planting Brugmansia in Ground
Using brugmansia in the garden setting offers exotic impact with surprising ease of care. Amend the soil with plenty of organic material and loosen to a depth of a foot before installing the plant. Many gardeners prefer to grow the plants in containers so it is easy to move them indoors over winter. Gardeners in southern regions can simply plant them in a prepared garden plot. Some growers swear that brugmansia grow best in shade with only morning sun. They can also handle full sun but they may get wilted and stressed during the hottest point of the day. A better solution might be to choose a partial shade location. The most important consideration once you have chosen the location is good drainage and consistent moisture. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a huge feeder and needs plenty of moisture to sustain the massive amount of plant matter it produces.
Brugmansia Plant Care
Caring for brugmansia outdoors in summer is no trickier than any other plant so long as it gets 3 inches of water per week and a liquid feeding at least once per month. Brugmansia in warm climates will maintain a dormant state in winter but those in northern climates will either die if left outdoors or must be moved inside before cold weather threatens. Use a good commercial potting soil and a pot large enough to contain the root mass. Brugmansia respond well to pruning in spring. Most pruning consists of cutting back the branch tips to a growth node, but the plant can also withstand a hard pruning to within a few inches of the ground.
Brugmansia are prey to the standard sucking insects and some caterpillars and larvae. Use horticultural insecticide soaps to control any unwanted visitors.
Brugmansia Angel Trumpet
Brugmansia are a popular collector’s plant. There are seven species of brugmansia but innumerable cultivars. The seven species are listed as extinct in the wild and today these plants are grown as ornamental specimens.
Brugmansia are heavy feeders and require quite a bit of water. Good brugmansia plant care will result in a small tree decorated with dangling trumpet-shaped flowers. Caring for brugmansia outdoors requires warm temperatures and a sunny location with protection from midday sun.
Brugmansia are divided into two groups that are genetically and regionally different. The warm group prefers warmer, sunny locations while the cool group flowers best in cooler temperatures. Both groups produce massive, woody stemmed plants with alternate toothed leaves, up to 12 inches long. The gigantic blooms are pendant and may be white, pink, yellow, orange, green or red with single, double or even triple petals. The flowers are very showy and often bear an attractive scent. Most brugmansia are pollinated by butterflies and they have a host relationship with many species. One brugmansia species is pollinated by a hummingbird.
Planting Brugmansia in Ground
Using brugmansia in the garden setting offers exotic impact with surprising ease of care. Amend the soil with plenty of organic material and loosen to a depth of a foot before installing the plant. Many gardeners prefer to grow the plants in containers so it is easy to move them indoors over winter. Gardeners in southern regions can simply plant them in a prepared garden plot. Some growers swear that brugmansia grow best in shade with only morning sun. They can also handle full sun but they may get wilted and stressed during the hottest point of the day. A better solution might be to choose a partial shade location. The most important consideration once you have chosen the location is good drainage and consistent moisture. Brugmansia angel trumpet is a huge feeder and needs plenty of moisture to sustain the massive amount of plant matter it produces.
Brugmansia Plant Care
Caring for brugmansia outdoors in summer is no trickier than any other plant so long as it gets 3 inches of water per week and a liquid feeding at least once per month. Brugmansia in warm climates will maintain a dormant state in winter but those in northern climates will either die if left outdoors or must be moved inside before cold weather threatens. Use a good commercial potting soil and a pot large enough to contain the root mass. Brugmansia respond well to pruning in spring. Most pruning consists of cutting back the branch tips to a growth node, but the plant can also withstand a hard pruning to within a few inches of the ground.
Brugmansia are prey to the standard sucking insects and some caterpillars and larvae. Use horticultural insecticide soaps to control any unwanted visitors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
What is an African tulip tree? Native to Africa’s tropical rainforests, African tulip tree (Spathodea campanulata) is a big, impressive shade tree that grows only in the non-freezing climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and above. Want to know more about this exotic tree? Interested in knowing how to grow African tulips trees? Keep reading to find out.
Is African Tulip Tree Invasive?
A cousin to the rambunctious trumpet vine, African tulip tree tends to be invasive in tropical climates, such as Hawaii and southern Florida, where it forms dense thickets that interfere with native growth. It is less problematic in drier climates like southern California and central or northern Florida.
African Tulip Tree Information African tulip tree is indeed an impressive specimen with gigantic, reddish-orange or golden yellow trumpet-shaped flowers and huge, glossy leaves. It can reach heights of 80 feet, but growth is usually limited to 60 feet or less with a width of about 40 feet. The flowers are pollinated by birds and bats and the seeds are scattered by water and wind.
How to Grow African Tulip Trees
African tulip trees are somewhat difficult to grow by seed but easy to propagate by taking tip or root cuttings, or by planting suckers. As far as growing conditions, the tree tolerates shade but performs best in full sunlight. Similarly, although it is relatively drought tolerant, African tulip tree is happiest with plenty of moisture. Although it likes rich soil, it will grow in nearly any well-drained soil.
African Tulip Tree Care
Newly planted African tulip trees benefit from regular irrigation. However, once established, the tree requires little attention. It is rarely bothered by pests or disease, but may temporarily shed its leaves during periods of severe drought. African tulip trees should be pruned regularly because the branches, which tend to be brittle, break easily in harsh winds. For this reason, the tree should be planted away from structures or smaller trees that may be damaged.
Is African Tulip Tree Invasive?
A cousin to the rambunctious trumpet vine, African tulip tree tends to be invasive in tropical climates, such as Hawaii and southern Florida, where it forms dense thickets that interfere with native growth. It is less problematic in drier climates like southern California and central or northern Florida.
African Tulip Tree Information African tulip tree is indeed an impressive specimen with gigantic, reddish-orange or golden yellow trumpet-shaped flowers and huge, glossy leaves. It can reach heights of 80 feet, but growth is usually limited to 60 feet or less with a width of about 40 feet. The flowers are pollinated by birds and bats and the seeds are scattered by water and wind.
How to Grow African Tulip Trees
African tulip trees are somewhat difficult to grow by seed but easy to propagate by taking tip or root cuttings, or by planting suckers. As far as growing conditions, the tree tolerates shade but performs best in full sunlight. Similarly, although it is relatively drought tolerant, African tulip tree is happiest with plenty of moisture. Although it likes rich soil, it will grow in nearly any well-drained soil.
African Tulip Tree Care
Newly planted African tulip trees benefit from regular irrigation. However, once established, the tree requires little attention. It is rarely bothered by pests or disease, but may temporarily shed its leaves during periods of severe drought. African tulip trees should be pruned regularly because the branches, which tend to be brittle, break easily in harsh winds. For this reason, the tree should be planted away from structures or smaller trees that may be damaged.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
As one of the most celebrated flowering shrubs of all time, roses (Rosa spp.) come in a wide assortment, boasting blooms of almost every color. Depending on the cultivar, roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10. They bloom year after year if growers follow pruning guidelines that keep the plants healthy. Pruning, or cutting back the bushes, encourages blooming and promotes new growth.
Pruning Cues
A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once.
Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell.
Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth.
Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year.
Pruning Necessities
Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them.
The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques
Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also:
• Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking.
On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter.
Pruning for Blooms
Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading.
Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact.
Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
Pruning Cues
A rose bush's class determines when the bush should be pruned. The two classes of roses are those that repeatedly bloom all summer and those that bloom once.
Repeat-blooming roses require an annual pruning between mid-February and mid-April, based on their location. Rosarians suggest pruning roses when forsythia bushes (Forsythia spp.) start blooming. An alternate rule of thumb is to start pruning when new rose buds form and begin to swell.
Old-fashioned and climbing roses bloom once each year and need pruning after they bloom sometime in early summer. This class of roses produces blossoms on existing stems rather than new growth.
Apart from annual pruning, any stem or wood that is diseased or dying should be removed immediately throughout the year.
Pruning Necessities
Several tools and other items are needed for pruning roses. Ensure each tool's cutting blade is sharp and sterilized with 70 percent rubbing alcohol. Dip small tools in a container filled with rubbing alcohol, and then dry the tools with a clean cloth. Wipe large tools thoroughly with a soft cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol, and use a clean cloth to dry them.
The tools and items needed for pruning are: • Bypass pruning shears that cut like scissors. • Long-handled lopping shears. • Pruning saw for thick, old stems. • Heavy gloves to protect your hands. • White, water-based school glue.
Pruning Techniques
Some pruning tasks are applicable to all roses. For example, make 45-degree angle cuts each time, and periodically sterilize your tools with alcohol as you prune. Also:
• Remove damaged wood stems by cutting each at least 1 inch below darkened wood, leaving green wood with a white center. If the center is tan, continue cutting down the branch until the pith is white. The cut also should be ¼ inch above a bud that faces outward rather than toward the bush's center. • Remove branches that grow toward the center of the bush. This technique opens the center for air and light, and reduces the chances for diseases. • Identify branches that cross each other or rub together. Remove the weakest branch of two such branches. • Remove all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. • Remove suckers from the root base. Dig into the soil to find where suckers originate, and remove them. • Seal all cuts with a thin layer of white, water-based school glue to prevent borers from attacking.
On Oct. 1, all pruning tasks should cease so that rose plants have the opportunity to harden off for winter.
Pruning for Blooms
Repeat-blooming roses can be pruned to a uniform height of 12 to 24 inches. Leave nine to 12 healthy stems that are at least ½ inch in diameter. If you want larger blooms for cut flowers, then prune the bushes to no taller than 15 inches; the plants will produce fewer flowers, but the flowers will be larger. Cut off the spent blooms of repeat-blooming roses throughout summer, cutting each faded bloom down to the first outward-facing rosebud with five leaflets. Removing spent blooms is called deadheading.
Once-blooming roses, such as old-fashioned and most climbing varieties, do not require severe pruning. Do not remove more than one-third of each plant. Cut away only dead, damaged and unproductive stems. The remaining branches will produce next year's blooms. Deadhead once-blooming roses by removing only their spent petals, leaving their rose hips intact.
Rose hips come from rose blossoms. They are small, round fruits that mature in fall, turning red, orange, burgundy, scarlet or yellow. They are edible for humans and wildlife and offer a showy display in winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knock Out roses are hardy down to USDA Zone 5. They can be planted outdoors in USDA Zone 7 (average annual minimum temperature range of 0 degrees F to 10 degrees F) in the spring after the last hard frost and in the fall, up to six weeks before the first hard frost. There are advantages and disadvantages to be weighed for the timing of planting that largely depend on your climate. In any case, it's best to avoid the heat stress of the peak of summer or the cold temperatures and hard-to-work soil of winter in most climates.
Spring Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
Spring Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in Zone 7 in early spring, after the last hard frost has passed. Spring soil is often wet and muddy, and rainy conditions weigh against spring planting. In climates where there are minimal spring rains, this is of little concern; in climates where spring rains are heavy, planting can be done on a dry day. Spring planting as early as possible (without frost) makes for a long growing and blooming season for Knock Outs, which will continue to bloom in cycles until the first hard frost of winter. Spring-planted Knock Outs will begin to grow again in two to three weeks after planting and come into bloom in six to eight weeks after that. Because spring-planted Knock Outs have the entire summer and fall to establish their root systems, they're well poised to survive winter undamaged.
Fall Planting
Plant Knock Out roses in the early fall in Zone 7. Planting Knock Outs in September, October and even the first week of November can be done safely. This allows the roots to become settled before the cold of winter. Fall planting also holds the advantage of a drier climate and better soil condition, which can reduce mildew and rust on the rose--though Knock Outs are known to be fairly disease resistant anyway. Roses planted in the fall are also more likely to bloom earlier in the spring because they're already well established. The downside of fall planting can be that the selection of roses available in your garden center and direct from growers is much smaller, unless you reserved or pre-ordered them.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Creeping jenny plant, also known as moneywort or Lysimachia, is an evergreen perennial plant belonging to the Primulaceae family. For those looking for information on how to grow creeping jenny, this low-growing plant thrives in USDA zones 2 to 10. Creeping jenny is a ground cover that works well in rock gardens, between stepping stones, around ponds, in container plantings or for covering hard to grow areas in the landscape.
How to Grow Creeping Jenny
Growing creeping jenny is relatively easy. Before planting creeping jenny, check with your local extension office to be sure that it is not restricted in your area due to its invasive nature.
Creeping jenny is a hardy plant that will thrive in full sun or shade. Purchase plants from nurseries in the spring and choose a site, in the shade or sun that drains well. Space these plants 2 feet apart, as they grow rapidly to fill in empty areas. Do not plant creeping jenny unless you are prepared to deal with its rapidly spreading habit.
Care of Creeping Jenny Ground Cover
Once established, creeping jenny plant requires very little up keep. Most gardeners prune this fast-growing plant to keep its horizontal growth under control. You can also divide the plant for better air circulation or to control spreading in early spring. Creeping jenny requires regular water and does well with a little organic fertilizer when first planted. Apply mulch or organic compost around plants to help with moisture retention.
What Is the Difference Between Creeping Charlie and Creeping Jenny?
Sometimes when people are growing creeping jenny plant, they mistakenly think it’s the same thing as creeping charlie. Although they are similar in many ways, creeping charlie is a low-growing weed that often invades lawns and gardens, while creeping jenny is a ground cover plant that is, more often than not, a welcome addition to the garden or landscape.
Creeping charlie has four-sided stems that grow up to 30 inches. The roots of this invasive weed form nodes where the leaves join the stem. Creeping charlie also produces lavender flowers on 2-inch spikes. Most varieties of creeping jenny, on the other hand, reach a mature height of 15 inches with yellow-green, coin-like foliage that turns bronze in the winter and has inconspicuous flowers that bloom in early summer.
How to Grow Creeping Jenny
Growing creeping jenny is relatively easy. Before planting creeping jenny, check with your local extension office to be sure that it is not restricted in your area due to its invasive nature.
Creeping jenny is a hardy plant that will thrive in full sun or shade. Purchase plants from nurseries in the spring and choose a site, in the shade or sun that drains well. Space these plants 2 feet apart, as they grow rapidly to fill in empty areas. Do not plant creeping jenny unless you are prepared to deal with its rapidly spreading habit.
Care of Creeping Jenny Ground Cover
Once established, creeping jenny plant requires very little up keep. Most gardeners prune this fast-growing plant to keep its horizontal growth under control. You can also divide the plant for better air circulation or to control spreading in early spring. Creeping jenny requires regular water and does well with a little organic fertilizer when first planted. Apply mulch or organic compost around plants to help with moisture retention.
What Is the Difference Between Creeping Charlie and Creeping Jenny?
Sometimes when people are growing creeping jenny plant, they mistakenly think it’s the same thing as creeping charlie. Although they are similar in many ways, creeping charlie is a low-growing weed that often invades lawns and gardens, while creeping jenny is a ground cover plant that is, more often than not, a welcome addition to the garden or landscape.
Creeping charlie has four-sided stems that grow up to 30 inches. The roots of this invasive weed form nodes where the leaves join the stem. Creeping charlie also produces lavender flowers on 2-inch spikes. Most varieties of creeping jenny, on the other hand, reach a mature height of 15 inches with yellow-green, coin-like foliage that turns bronze in the winter and has inconspicuous flowers that bloom in early summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Listed amongst the 50 fundamental herbs in Chinese medicine, Japanese ardisia (Ardisia japonica) is now grown in many countries besides its native homelands of China and Japan. Hardy in zones 7-10, this ancient herb is now more commonly grown as an evergreen ground cover for shady locations. For Japanese ardisia plant info and care tips, continue reading.
What is Japanese Ardisia?
Japanese ardisia is a creeping, woody shrub that only grows 8-12 (20-30 cm.) tall. Spreading by rhizomes, it can get three foot or wider. If you are familiar with plants that spread by rhizomes, you may wonder is ardisia invasive? Coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), a close relative of Japanese ardisia, is considered an invasive species in some locations. However, Japanese ardisia does not share coral ardisia’s invasive species status. Still, because new plants are added to local invasive species lists all the time, you should check with your local extension office before planting anything questionable.
Care for Japanese Ardisia Plants
Japanese ardisia is mostly grown for its dark green glossy foliage. However, depending on variety, new growth comes in deep shades of copper or bronze. From spring through summer, small pale pink flowers hang beneath its whorled foliage tips. In autumn, the flowers are replaced by bright red berries. Commonly known as Marlberry or Maleberry, Japanese ardisia prefers part shade to shade. It can quickly suffer from sunscald if exposed to intense afternoon sun. When growing Japanese ardisia, it performs best in moist, but well-draining, acidic soil.
Japanese ardisia is deer resistant. It is also not commonly bothered by pests or diseases. In zones 8-10, it grows as an evergreen. If temperatures are expected to dip below 20 degrees F. (-7 C.), though, Japanese ardisia should be mulched, as it can easily suffer from winter burn. A few varieties are hardy in zones 6 and 7, but they grow best in zones 8-10. Fertilize plants in spring with a fertilizer for acid-loving plants, such as Hollytone or Miracid.
What is Japanese Ardisia?
Japanese ardisia is a creeping, woody shrub that only grows 8-12 (20-30 cm.) tall. Spreading by rhizomes, it can get three foot or wider. If you are familiar with plants that spread by rhizomes, you may wonder is ardisia invasive? Coral ardisia (Ardisia crenata), a close relative of Japanese ardisia, is considered an invasive species in some locations. However, Japanese ardisia does not share coral ardisia’s invasive species status. Still, because new plants are added to local invasive species lists all the time, you should check with your local extension office before planting anything questionable.
Care for Japanese Ardisia Plants
Japanese ardisia is mostly grown for its dark green glossy foliage. However, depending on variety, new growth comes in deep shades of copper or bronze. From spring through summer, small pale pink flowers hang beneath its whorled foliage tips. In autumn, the flowers are replaced by bright red berries. Commonly known as Marlberry or Maleberry, Japanese ardisia prefers part shade to shade. It can quickly suffer from sunscald if exposed to intense afternoon sun. When growing Japanese ardisia, it performs best in moist, but well-draining, acidic soil.
Japanese ardisia is deer resistant. It is also not commonly bothered by pests or diseases. In zones 8-10, it grows as an evergreen. If temperatures are expected to dip below 20 degrees F. (-7 C.), though, Japanese ardisia should be mulched, as it can easily suffer from winter burn. A few varieties are hardy in zones 6 and 7, but they grow best in zones 8-10. Fertilize plants in spring with a fertilizer for acid-loving plants, such as Hollytone or Miracid.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Elephants eat it, but you need not fear for your Portulacaria unless you have a pet pachyderm. The plant is a succulent with fleshy, glossy leaves that grows as a small bush. They are only hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Elephant bush houseplants (Portulacaria afra) thrive in bright light in a warm, draft free room. A few rules on how to care for elephant bush will help you grow a specimen of interest that may be a stand-alone plant or part of an intricate succulent garden.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
Elephant Bush Succulents
Elephant bush plant may get 6- to 20-feet tall in habitat where it is a favorite food of elephants. In the home interior, it is much more likely to remain just a few feet tall. The bush has thick succulent brown stems with small tender green leaves that resemble a diminutive jade plant. The home interior is an excellent place to grow elephant bush houseplants. Portulacaria care requires warm temperatures and bright light. After a dormant period in winter, the bush produces small pink flowers grouped in clusters at the ends of the branches.
Growing Elephant Bush Houseplants
These succulents need well drained soil and an unglazed pot that will help excess moisture evaporate. The best mixture for this type of plant is cactus soil or potting soil cut by half with sand, vermiculite or pumice. Choose a location with indirect sunlight when growing elephant bush indoors. Overly bright sunlight can char the leaves and cause them to drop off. Ensure that the container you choose has wide drainage holes. Elephant bush succulents work well as part of a succulent display with plants that require similar care and situations.
How to Care for Elephant Bush
Portulacaria care is similar to other succulent plants. If planted outdoors in warm climates, dig in 3 inches of sand or gritty material to provide well drained soil. Watch for pests like whitefly, spider mites and mealybugs. The most common mistake made in succulent plants is watering. They are drought tolerant but do require watering from April to October. In winter the plants are dormant and you may suspend watering. Elephant bush succulents in the home interior should not have consistently wet feet. Make sure the pot drains well and don’t leave a saucer with water sitting under the container. Fertilize in late winter to early spring with an indoor plant fertilizer diluted by half.
Propagation of Elephant Bush Succulents
Like most succulents, elephant bush is easy to reproduce from cuttings. Take cuttings in spring or summer for best results. Let the cutting dry out and callous for a couple of days and then plant the cutting in damp gritty soil in a small pot. Place the cutting in a moderately lit area where temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.). Keep the soil lightly moist and in a few weeks the cutting will root and you will have a new elephant bush succulent to share with a friend or add to your collection.
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