文章
Miss Chen
2022年07月04日
Creeping bellflower is a delicate, hardy, disease-resistant perennial that grows readily in a variety of conditions. Even though there are numerous bellflower species, the creeping variety is relatively easy to identify. The leaves found at the base of the plant are heart-shaped and become narrower and more lance-like as they move upwards. The drooping, bell-shaped purple flowers appear during the summer, growing up one side of the stem. You may think that a beautiful, easy-to-grow plant would make for a perfect garden bloom, but you'd be wrong—in fact, creeping bellflower is considered extremely invasive.
If you introduce this aggressive species to your garden, you must do so carefully and strategically—otherwise, it won't be long before it chokes out your other flowers and proves almost impossible to eradicate. It has a fast-spreading and deep root system of long tubers that can become many gardeners' nemesis if left untamed. Now that the extent of its aggressive nature has been discovered, it's classed as an invasive species across much of the country.
Brought to North America from its native Europe, creeping bellflower was initially a popular plant thanks to its ability to attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Creeping bellflower produces an abundance of seeds in the summer (upwards of 15,000 per plant), which are then easily distributed by insects and gentle breezes. The plant will grow rapidly and can take over your landscape in as little as a season if left to its own devices. Ultimately, though it is beautiful, it's not recommended that you plant creeping bellflower in your garden or landscape.
Botanical Name Campanula rapunculoides
Common Name Creeping bellflower, rampion bellflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–4 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time July to September
Flower Color Lavender, purple
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Bellflower Care
Creeping bellflower grows pretty much anywhere. It can thrive in various light conditions and handles a variety of different soil types easily—even those that have poor drainage or are infertile. It's found in most parts of North America, other than the hottest southeastern states. That being said, moist and shady locations are where the plant tends to be at its most invasive.
Light
Creeping bellflower will be most pervasive (and reseeds itself most aggressively) when growing in full sunlight. However, the plant can sustain just fine in partial shade and full shade locations as well.
Soil
While it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, creeping bellflower will grow most prolifically in a soil blend that is moist but well-draining. Additionally, it can adapt to a wide range of neutral to acidic pH levels.
Water
Creeping bellflower plants prefer consistent water, and do best with about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or manual watering methods. Once established, they are mildly drought-tolerant, though a lack of water will impact their blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Though creeping bellflower is well-adapted to a variety of temperature and humidity environments, it spreads and grows most rapidly in the cooler weather of early spring or late fall. Additionally, the plants are cold-hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will cease to bloom at extremely cold temperatures.
Fertilizer
Creeping bellflower spreads readily and aggressively on its own, and should not be given fertilizer.
How to Remove Creeping Bellflower
Be prepared for a long project when attempting to eradicate the tenacious creeping bellflower from your landscape. Rigorous hand pulling, mowing, and deadheading won't eradicate the species, but it'll prevent reseeding and can help control spread somewhat. It can take several years of hard work to eliminate this species, and some horticulturists choose to focus on managing it instead.
Removing The Roots
Part of the problem with removing creeping bellflower is that its white, fleshy underground rhizomes and deep taproots can't simply be pulled out. Doing so carelessly will inevitably leave pieces still in the soil, and even the smallest rhizomatous section can result in regrowth.
For the best success, digging out the roots is required. You'll need to dig at least 6 to 9 inches into the soil on all sides of the plant. Slowly and methodically sift out any root sections you find, and all parts of the plant should be put into sealed general waste bags. If added to compost heaps or bins, they could grow back once the compost is applied.
Creeping bellflower roots can also become entangled with the roots of other nearby plants. You may have to sacrifice other species while you're working to rid your garden of this weed. If you have a prized plant you want to try saving, it's best to remove it and carefully try to separate it from the roots of the bellflower. The roots should then be washed off, and the plant should be kept in a pot to make sure that no creeping bellflower growth reappears.
Smothering Methods
Another method for removing creeping bellflower is to cover the plants to deprive them of light. However, this is only practical if the flowers are growing in small patches. To do so, you can use newspapers, cardboard, or plastic, which is then covered over with soil or heavy mulch. Though it may seem easier, this method isn't always foolproof—sometimes, creeping bellflower's roots will lie in a dormant state (tricking you into thinking it's been eradicated) and new growth could appear the following season.
Chemical Removal
Chemically removing your creeping bellflower is best kept as a last resort. Not only can herbicides pose a risk to the environment, humans, and animals alike, but they don't always have the best success rate. However, if you find the plant has invaded your patio. driveway cracks, or paved areas in your garden, it could be worth adopting this method as it won't be possible to dig up the roots. Likewise, if the plants have spread to your lawn, you could apply a herbicide containing the active ingredient triclopyr as this won't damage the grass.
Widely available broadleaf herbicides and defoliants such as 2,4-D have been proven ineffective at dealing with creeping bellflower. Limited success has been shown, however, with those that contain the active ingredient glyphosate, likeRoundup. Applying the treatment directly with a sponge can prevent it from coming into contact with other nearby broadleaf species. Best success, however, will occur if it's sprayed generously on the plant.
Treatments should be applied in late spring or early fall, while temperatures are between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You also want to ensure there isn't any rain in the forecast for at least a couple of days after the treatment, too. Weekly reapplications for several weeks are often recommended.
If you introduce this aggressive species to your garden, you must do so carefully and strategically—otherwise, it won't be long before it chokes out your other flowers and proves almost impossible to eradicate. It has a fast-spreading and deep root system of long tubers that can become many gardeners' nemesis if left untamed. Now that the extent of its aggressive nature has been discovered, it's classed as an invasive species across much of the country.
Brought to North America from its native Europe, creeping bellflower was initially a popular plant thanks to its ability to attract pollinators like bees and butterflies. Creeping bellflower produces an abundance of seeds in the summer (upwards of 15,000 per plant), which are then easily distributed by insects and gentle breezes. The plant will grow rapidly and can take over your landscape in as little as a season if left to its own devices. Ultimately, though it is beautiful, it's not recommended that you plant creeping bellflower in your garden or landscape.
Botanical Name Campanula rapunculoides
Common Name Creeping bellflower, rampion bellflower
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 2–4 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade
Soil Type Moist but well-drained
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time July to September
Flower Color Lavender, purple
Hardiness Zones 3–9 (USDA)
Native Area Europe
Creeping Bellflower Care
Creeping bellflower grows pretty much anywhere. It can thrive in various light conditions and handles a variety of different soil types easily—even those that have poor drainage or are infertile. It's found in most parts of North America, other than the hottest southeastern states. That being said, moist and shady locations are where the plant tends to be at its most invasive.
Light
Creeping bellflower will be most pervasive (and reseeds itself most aggressively) when growing in full sunlight. However, the plant can sustain just fine in partial shade and full shade locations as well.
Soil
While it can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, creeping bellflower will grow most prolifically in a soil blend that is moist but well-draining. Additionally, it can adapt to a wide range of neutral to acidic pH levels.
Water
Creeping bellflower plants prefer consistent water, and do best with about 1 inch of water per week, either from rainfall or manual watering methods. Once established, they are mildly drought-tolerant, though a lack of water will impact their blooming.
Temperature and Humidity
Though creeping bellflower is well-adapted to a variety of temperature and humidity environments, it spreads and grows most rapidly in the cooler weather of early spring or late fall. Additionally, the plants are cold-hardy down to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, though they will cease to bloom at extremely cold temperatures.
Fertilizer
Creeping bellflower spreads readily and aggressively on its own, and should not be given fertilizer.
How to Remove Creeping Bellflower
Be prepared for a long project when attempting to eradicate the tenacious creeping bellflower from your landscape. Rigorous hand pulling, mowing, and deadheading won't eradicate the species, but it'll prevent reseeding and can help control spread somewhat. It can take several years of hard work to eliminate this species, and some horticulturists choose to focus on managing it instead.
Removing The Roots
Part of the problem with removing creeping bellflower is that its white, fleshy underground rhizomes and deep taproots can't simply be pulled out. Doing so carelessly will inevitably leave pieces still in the soil, and even the smallest rhizomatous section can result in regrowth.
For the best success, digging out the roots is required. You'll need to dig at least 6 to 9 inches into the soil on all sides of the plant. Slowly and methodically sift out any root sections you find, and all parts of the plant should be put into sealed general waste bags. If added to compost heaps or bins, they could grow back once the compost is applied.
Creeping bellflower roots can also become entangled with the roots of other nearby plants. You may have to sacrifice other species while you're working to rid your garden of this weed. If you have a prized plant you want to try saving, it's best to remove it and carefully try to separate it from the roots of the bellflower. The roots should then be washed off, and the plant should be kept in a pot to make sure that no creeping bellflower growth reappears.
Smothering Methods
Another method for removing creeping bellflower is to cover the plants to deprive them of light. However, this is only practical if the flowers are growing in small patches. To do so, you can use newspapers, cardboard, or plastic, which is then covered over with soil or heavy mulch. Though it may seem easier, this method isn't always foolproof—sometimes, creeping bellflower's roots will lie in a dormant state (tricking you into thinking it's been eradicated) and new growth could appear the following season.
Chemical Removal
Chemically removing your creeping bellflower is best kept as a last resort. Not only can herbicides pose a risk to the environment, humans, and animals alike, but they don't always have the best success rate. However, if you find the plant has invaded your patio. driveway cracks, or paved areas in your garden, it could be worth adopting this method as it won't be possible to dig up the roots. Likewise, if the plants have spread to your lawn, you could apply a herbicide containing the active ingredient triclopyr as this won't damage the grass.
Widely available broadleaf herbicides and defoliants such as 2,4-D have been proven ineffective at dealing with creeping bellflower. Limited success has been shown, however, with those that contain the active ingredient glyphosate, likeRoundup. Applying the treatment directly with a sponge can prevent it from coming into contact with other nearby broadleaf species. Best success, however, will occur if it's sprayed generously on the plant.
Treatments should be applied in late spring or early fall, while temperatures are between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. You also want to ensure there isn't any rain in the forecast for at least a couple of days after the treatment, too. Weekly reapplications for several weeks are often recommended.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年06月07日
Cosmos are freely flowering annuals that are easy to grow by sprinkling some seeds in the garden after any danger of frost has passed. These quintessential cottage garden flowers reach full maturity in about two months. Cosmos can be slower to germinate, but it blooms quickly after that and continues to flower through the fall. The flowers sit atop long slender stems and form a cloud of attractive color all summer that attracts bees, butterflies, and birds to your garden. Cosmos flowers look a lot like daisies. They come in a broad range of colors, with more cultivars developed every year. The leaves grow opposite on stems and are deeply lobed, pinnate, or bipinnate and feathery-looking depending on the type. If you plan to have cosmos and live in the southern U.S., consider keeping them as potted plants since they tend to be invasive there.1
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
Common Name Cosmos, Mexican aster, cut-leaf cosmos
Botanical Name Cosmos sulphureus, Cosmos bipinnatus
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Annual
Mature Size 1-6 ft. tall, 1-3 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Well-draining soil
Soil pH 6.0–6.8 (Acidic)
Bloom Time Summer through fall
Flower Color Golden yellow, white, pink, magenta, orange, yellow, red, chocolate
Hardiness Zones 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area northern South America, Central America, and southern North America
Cosmos Care
Cosmos grow easily in beds and make great cut flowers. When established, the plants can handle drought, poor soil conditions, and general neglect. They even self-sow. This is a truly low-maintenance plant.
While some pests, like aphids, flea beetles, and thrips feed on cosmos, they're easy to control with a strong spray of water or insecticidal soap. Aster yellows, bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew may also affect cosmos.2 Space plants accordingly to ensure good airflow to avoid diseases.
Taller varieties look good in the middle or rear of the border with goat's beard, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans. Shorter varieties make very colorful, airy edging plants.
WARNING
Cosmos sulphureus is invasive in the southeast United States.1 Check with representatives from your local extension office to learn about any restrictions in your area.
Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall. Light
For the best flowering, choose a site that gets full sun. Cosmos will grow in partial shade but will have fewer blooms and be less vigorous when planted in shady areas. These plants will also thrive under uninterrupted full sun in the hottest conditions, much like their native habitat: the arid regions of Mexico and Central America.
Soil
Cosmos plants prefer a neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, although they will grow in poor soil where many flowering plants languish. They perform best in medium moisture, well-drained soils, but they will perform adequately in dry soils. Avoid planting in a rich soil; it can cause the plants to get too tall and flop over. You can prevent drooping by staking the plants or growing them close to other plants that can support them.
Water
Once established, you will not need to water your cosmos plants unless there is a prolonged drought. Where water is limited, these are the last plants that require irrigation.
Temperature and Humidity
Hot weather is ideal for cosmos, and they thrive in any humidity level.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing can negatively impact cosmos. Cosmos can handle poor soil. Too much fertilizer can often lead to strong plants with lots of foliage but few blooms. Unless your plants seem to be struggling, these plants do not need fertilizer.
Types of Cosmos
There are over 25 species of cosmos. However, three species are most commonly used in gardens and landscaping. Cosmos sulphureus is native to Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. With golden yellow blooms, it is very drought tolerant and loves hot weather. The plant grows 2 to 6 feet tall and comes in double and semi-double flowers. Some of the more recent cultivars tend to be shorter, more orangy, and with smaller flowers.
Cosmos bipinnatus are colorful daisy-like flowers that come in white, pinks, reds, and orange. At 1 to 4 feet in height, they are shorter than C. suphureus and are available in several popular hybrid series. Although they are not quite as heat tolerant as C. sulphureus, C. bipinnatus will grow well in just about any sunny space.
Chocolate cosmos are a separate species: Cosmos atrosanguineus. The dark red flowers smell like chocolate. This perennial is hardy to USDA zone 7, but it is higher maintenance than annual cosmos. Like dahlias, it grows from tubers.
Other common cosmos cultivars include:
'Bright Lights' mix: This variety boasts a blend of exuberant yellows, oranges, and reds.
'Cosmic Orange': This brilliant, semi-double orange flower has great drought tolerance.
'Peppermint Candy': An award-winning variety, the petals are splashed in magenta and white.
'Sea Shells' series: A pretty mix of pastel colors, it has distinctive tubular petals.
'Ladybird': This cosmos is a shorter variety that blooms in red, yellow, orange, or gold, averaging 18 to 24 inches tall.
Pruning
The only real maintenance cosmos plants need is deadheading which will prolong the flowering season. If you fall behind, shear the plants by about one-third, when most flowers have faded. This kind of pruning produces a second flush of leaves and flowers. By the end of the season, you can cut off the plants at ground level or pull them up, roots and all. However, if you leave the plants in place, they may self-seed for the following growing season.
Propagating Cosmos
Cosmos plants readily self-seed. It's best to propagate these plants after the threat of frost is gone. Although sowing seeds is the best and easiest way to propagate this plant, you can also propagate via stem cutting. When you take stem trimmings, it stimulates more leaf and flower growth. Besides seed, stem cutting is the best way to propagate this plant. Here's how you do it:
You'll need sterile pruning shears or scissors and a pot of sterile, well-draining potting soil.
Fill a small 3-inch container with moistened potting soil. Using a pencil tip, push straight down in the soil about 1 to 2 inches deep, making a shallow hole.
Look for a cosmos shoot that has 3 to 5 leaf nodes on the stem. Cut under the last leaf node. At the last leaf node, carefully cut off the leaves, leaving the node intact for new growth.
Bury the cut tip of the stem in the pencil-made hole. Make sure that the last leaf node is above the soil line. Push down the soil around the stem, compacting the soil to keep the stem upright and in place.
Water generously and keep moist. You should notice new leaf growth within three weeks. If you do, you can gently pull the root ball out of the container, Transplant the root ball to its new location.
How to Grow Cosmos From Seeds
Start seeds indoors, four to six weeks before the last frost. Or if you can sow cosmos outdoors directly in the garden well after the threat of frost is gone. Cosmos grow very quickly but can be killed by a late frost, so don't rush it. They typically germinate in 7 to 21 days at 75 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by flowering in about 50 to 60 days.
Loosen the soil to a depth of 8 inches. Plant the seeds and cover them with 1/4 inch of fine soil. Seed packets usually recommend precise spacing, such as at 2-foot intervals, or you can scatter the seeds and let the plants support each other as they grow. You can always thin them out later, moving the extra plants to another part of the garden.
Potting and Repotting Cosmos
When growing cosmos in pots, make sure the container has bottom drainage holes. Cosmos can't handle overly wet, soggy soil. Plan on growing one cosmos plant per gallon of your container. If growing in pots, do not enrich the soil, it makes the plants grow tall, leggy, and droopy. Also, tall varieties will need staking in containers. At the very least, plan on using at least a heavy, 12-inch diameter container.
Overwintering
Cosmos is an annual. If left outside in frosty temperatures, they will die. However, at the end of the growing season, if you allow the dead flower heads to drop their seeds, cosmos seeds will go dormant and sprout when the soil warms up again in the spring.
If you have a potted cosmos in a container and want to keep your cosmos alive over the winter season, you will need a bright full sun growing lamp for at least 7 hours a day. You will need to snip off any blooms as they form. This plant's life cycle ends with flowering when it drops its seeds for the next growing season.
How to Get Cosmos to Bloom
Cosmos plants need full sun to bloom. Even the hint of shade, can restrict flowering. Also, to encourage more blooms, you need to deadhead the old blooms. For faster blooms, prune between the main stem and a leaf. The lower you cut in the stem, the longer it takes to grow more flowers.
Common Problems With Cosmos
Cosmos are easy to grow and maintain over the growing season. They are usually resistant to disease, and most insects; however, some pests can become a nuisance and affect their growth.3
Wilting or Leaf Discoloration
If your plant has ample water and is not wilting from a lack of hydration, there are two possible causes.
A plant that is wilting with leaf discoloration might have a common fusarium fungal infection.4 If you dig up the plant and notice a pink mass on the roots, then the plant likely has fusarium. The whole plant is beyond help, will die, and should be disposed of to stop the fungus spread.
If you dig up the roots and they look healthy, the plant may have a bacterial wilt infection.5 The bacteria cause the stems to wilt at their base. This plant will die and should be disposed of.
Yellowing Leaves and Leaf Drop
Powdery mildew mainly affects plants in the shade.6 Fungus spores fly through the air and attach to a host plant in a shady spot. It creates a powdery white coating on leaves and causes leaves to yellow and fall off. To prevent powdery mildew, provide your plants good circulation, bright light, and avoid getting water on the leaves. If your plant has fungus, use a horticultural fungicide according to the package instructions.
Flowers Distorting or Stunting in Growth
As a member of the aster family, cosmos can get aster yellows, a disease spread by leafhoppers (a tiny grasshopper-looking insect).7 The leaves will get yellow mottling on the leaves, and the flowers will appear distorted or stunted. Dispose of these plants since there is nothing you can do help them recover.
FAQ
Are cosmos easy to care for?
Cosmos are easy to care for, germinate, and will self-seed for the following growing season.
How fast do cosmos grow?
Cosmos generally take 7 to 21 days to germinate and will flower within 50 to 60 days of germination.
How long can cosmos live?
Cosmos is an annual that germinates, flowers, and drops seed in preparation for the following growing season. Cosmos will languish and eventually die after flowering.
What's the difference between a Cosmos sulphureus and Cosmos bipinnatus?
C. bipinnatus are bushy plants that grow to an average height of about 1 to 4 feet. The flowers come in red, pink, and white. The leaves are spaced apart along the stem and cut into thread-like segments. The outer rays of the flowers surround the yellow-colored, clustered central disc of florets. Meanwhile, C.sulphureus can grow to a height of 2 to 6 feet. The flowers come in shades of orange, yellow, and red. It has hairy stems, and the daisy-like flowers have yellow rays and discs.
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Miss Chen
2022年06月01日
Corn plants (Dracaena deremensis) are quite popular as houseplants thanks to their attractive foliage and hardy nature. They’re easy to grow in containers or in the garden in the right climate. These plants can grow quite tall in the wild, but they stay at a manageable size when kept indoors. They feature rosettes of sword-shaped green leaves that can grow to around 2 feet long. Tiny yellow flowers will bloom periodically, but flowers on indoor plants are rather rare. Spring is the best time for planting, though you can typically pot a nursery plant indoors at any time of year. These plants are fairly slow growers and will naturally lose their lower leaves over time while they send up new ones on top.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
Botanical Name Dracaena deremensis
Common Names Corn plant, dracaena, striped dracaena
Plant Type Shrub
Mature Size 15–50 ft. tall, 3–10 ft. wide (outdoors), 4–6 ft. tall, 1–3 ft. wide (indoors)
Sun Exposure Partial
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Neutral
Bloom Time Seasonal
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–12 (USDA)
Native Area Africa
Toxicity Toxic to pets
Corn Plant Care
Overall, caring for Dracaena deremensis is simple, and even beginner gardeners should have success. Regular watering will be your main task for these low-maintenance plants, along with feeding for half of the year.
Corn plants generally don’t have many problems with pests or diseases. You also won’t have to do much in the way of pruning, though you can prune off any foliage that becomes discolored or damaged for aesthetic purposes. You also can prune off the top of your plant if it becomes too tall for your preference. This will encourage bushier growth. If you’re growing your plant in a container, make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. Once the roots have grown to fill the space of the pot, replant your corn plant into the next pot size up using fresh potting mix.
Light
Outdoors, these plants like filtered sunlight. Direct sun, especially hot afternoon sun, can burn the leaves and cause the plant to wilt. Indoors, place your plant near a window where it can get bright, indirect light. While these plants can tolerate somewhat shady conditions, too little light can cause the leaves to lose their bright colors and not grow in size to their fullest potential.
Soil
An organically rich, loose soil is ideal for corn plants. The soil must have good drainage, as the roots are prone to rotting in soggy soil. A quality commercial potting mix is generally fine for container plants.
Water
Water regularly throughout the growing season (spring to fall) to keep the soil evenly moist. In the winter you can back off on watering a little bit. But don’t ever allow the soil to dry out completely. If you stick your finger in the soil and feel it’s dry, then it’s time to water. Brown and dry leaf tips are a telltale sign that you’ve allowed the soil to dry out too much. It’s best to use non-fluorinated water, such as distilled water or rainwater, on corn plants because they’re sensitive to fluoride. Too much can cause the leaves to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
These tropical plants like a warm, humid climate. They grow best in temperatures that are between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t allow your plant to have prolonged exposure to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, as this can damage or kill it. Humidity above 40% is ideal. Air that’s too dry can cause brown, dry leaf tips. If you notice this, you can occasionally mist the plant to raise humidity or put a potted plant on a tray of pebbles filled with water, making sure the bottom of the pot isn’t touching the water (as this can rot the roots).
Fertilizer
These plants aren't heavy feeders. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer monthly during the spring and summer, following label instructions. No fertilization is necessary in the fall and winter.
Corn Plant Varieties
Here are some popular varieties within this species:
Dracaena deremensis ‘Warneckii’: This plant features stiff leaves with green and white stripes.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Janet Craig’: This plant has solid dark green leaves and also comes in a compact variety (‘Janet Craig Compacta’) whose leaves are only up to 8 inches long.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Lemon Lime’: Leaves that are a mix of cream, yellow-green, and lime green stripes are indicative of this variety.
Dracaena deremensis ‘Limelight’: Leaves start out yellow-green but then mature to a light lime green.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月22日
The coral bean shrub (Erythrina herbacea) is easy to grow, grows at a moderate rate, and requires little attention once established. It is attractive and showy with almost year-round interest. The coral bean is adorned with gorgeous ornamental, tubular flowers. In the summer and into the fall, the flowers turn into long pods with brilliant red seeds inside. The foliage of the coral bean is heart-shaped and glossy dark green. The trunk and branches are covered in small curved thorns. The tubular flowers are also highly attractive to hummingbirds drawn to the sweet nectar inside them. Only plant this shrub in the ground in hardiness zone 8 (Pacific Northwest or American South) or higher or else it will die. The best time to plant it is in the spring.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
Botanical Name Erythrina herbacea
Common Name Coral bean, red cardinal, cardinal spear, mamou plant
Plant Type Perennial, shrub
Mature Size 8–10 feet tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH 5.4 to 7.6 (acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color Red
Hardiness Zones 8–11 (USDA)
Native Area North America, Central America
Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets
Coral Bean Care
The coral bean is native to Mexico and parts of the United States. It is a low-maintenance flowering perennial shrub that readily grows in warm-season climates around the world. Once established, the coral bean requires little maintenance. As a result, it makes a great addition to a garden bed or shrub border. The coral bean shrub is also salt-tolerant, making it an excellent choice for gardeners living on coastal landscapes.
For the winter, place the coral bean plants in a greenhouse and plant in late spring or early summer. If left out, the plant will die in hardiness zones cooler than 8, such as in the Northeast.
Light
The coral bean shrub blooms most profusely when grown in a full sun location. However, it can tolerate dappled sun, as it naturally occurs along the edge of woodlands and forests.
Soil
The coral bean is adaptable to a wide range of soil types but appreciates sandy, acidic soil. Ensure that the potting medium is well-draining as the coral bean’s roots cannot tolerate sitting in water.
Water
For the first growing season, water the coral bean once a week to help encourage growth. This shrub does not tolerate "wet feet" and should never be left waterlogged. Once established, the coral bean is considered to be a drought-tolerant shrub and may only require supplemental watering during abnormally long dry periods.
Temperature and Humidity
To survive as a perennial, the coral bean requires warm temperatures and thrives in USDA zones 8 through 11. In regions that experience cold winters with freezing temperatures, the coral bean can be grown as an annual.
Fertilizer
Once established, the coral bean shrub does not require regular fertilizing. However, young plants benefit from fertilization in the spring to help boost growth. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. This shrub also benefits from annual mulching to help retain moisture and protect the sensitive root system from cold temperatures.
Pruning
The coral bean does not require heavy pruning but appreciates light yearly maintenance and general upkeep. Do not prune during the first growing season. In the spring of the second growing season, prune any dead or cold-damaged growth and trim to shape where necessary.
Propagating Coral Bean
You can propagate the coral bean shrub via semi-hardwood cuttings and division. Semi-hardwood cuttings can be taken in the late summer or early fall, once the stems are almost fully mature. The shrub can technically be propagated by division of the root ball at any time, but it is best to do so once the coral bean is well established with excess growth that you can easily separate. At the same time, both methods can successfully propagate the coral bean. It is usually most efficient to start with a nursery-grown plant or well-established shrub as propagation success rates are variable.
How to Grow Coral Bean From Seed
Coral bean seeds can be purchased from a nursery or garden center or collected directly from the plant. You can collect the seeds in the late summer or early fall. Be sure to always wear protective gloves when handling coral bean seeds as the seeds are poisonous (primarily if ingested). To increase the germination rate, coral bean seeds benefit from scarification. Plant seeds in the ground after the threat of frost and once the temperatures are consistently warm. If you are planting several shrubs together, ensure the seeds are spaced between 3 to 5 feet apart when sowing.
Potting and Repotting Coral Bean
Coral bean may be grown in a container, usually in the northern states. It is best placed in full sun with southern exposure. Protect it from freezing.
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Miss Chen
2022年05月20日
Coral aloe (Aloe striata) is a strikingly beautiful, hardy and easy-to-grow succulent.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
The thick, wide leaves on this plant are smoother than the more typically serrated or spined varieties typically found on aloe species. Flowering in the late winter and early spring months, the eye-catching coral red blooming inflorescences bring color to a garden when it's needed the most.
The nectar from the blooms is attractive to hungry insects and hummingbirds during a season when food can be scarce.
It forms in clumps and usually won't grow higher than three feet in height. Unlike many aloes, it's a solitary species that doesn't grow offsets that can be replanted.
Compared with other aloes, Coral is regarded as particularly hardy. It can cope with a wide range of temperatures, including dry, intense heat and mild frosts. If winters are harsh, however, it's best to grow the plant in a pot so that it can be overwintered in a sheltered position.
Thriving in sunny and dry conditions, it's ideal for xeriscape landscaping and rock and herb gardens, or for growing in containers indoors.
Botanical Name Aloe Striata
Common Name Coral aloe
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size Up to 24 in. tall
Sun Exposure Full, partial
Soil Type Well-draining, loamy, sandy
Soil pH Acid, neutral, alkaline
Bloom Time Winter, spring
Flower Color Orange
Hardiness Zones 9 - 11, USA
Native Area Africa
Plant Care
A low-maintenance plant, the Coral aloe is a good choice for novice gardeners or those that have never been particularly green-fingered. Providing it gets enough sun and isn't overwatered, it'll do well in containers indoors and in a variety of garden settings.
Light
Coral aloes can be grown in full sun or partial shade. If they get a lot of sunlight, the leaves will take on a red hue. In a shadier spot, they remain a bluey-green.
If the summer is particularly hot and dry, it's a good idea to protect them from too much intense reflected sun.
Soil
As with most succulents, Coral aloe does best in a sandy, gravelly soil type. Above all, it should be well-draining. Overly wet soil is one thing that you should avoid to ensure this plant doesn't die away as a result of root rot.
Water
A drought-resistant species, Coral aloe is ideal for dry, infertile soils. Although it can handle extended periods without being watered, it does best with regular watering during the summer when they're growing. This will encourage rapid and healthy growth, and the succulent leaves will look fuller.
Make sure you allow the soil to fully dry out before rewatering and using tepid rather than cold water is best.
During the winter months, when the plant is dormant, it should only require watering very occasionally.
Temperature and Humidity
This species is surprisingly cold hardy. It can tolerate temperatures low as 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideally, though, if you experience frost in your region, it would be best to overwinter your Coral aloe indoors, or at least plant it in a sheltered area.
These plants can struggle to recover if they're exposed to prolonged periods of frost and will die if the frosting is harsh.
Fertilizer
Your Coral aloe will appreciate an annual application of fertilizer in the spring. Be careful, however, not to over-fertilize as this can result in thin and overly long leaves developing.
Propagating Coral Aloe
Unlike most other aloe species, established Corals don't produce offsets around their base that can be removed to create new plants. Division of the clump itself, however, is nice and easy. Many growers divide their Coral aloe clump every few years to encourage vigorous new growth.
Pruning
It can be beneficial to remove dead flower heads in late spring or early summer. You can do this easily by individually pulling them out by hand.
How to Grow Coral Aloe From Seed
As with most aloe species, it's easy to grow this plant from seeds. They germinate easily providing you sow them in a well-draining medium and only lightly cover the seeds.
They can be sown any time of the year indoors, but it's a good idea to cover them with a bag or germinate them in a propagator to keep them moist. The seedlings don't appreciate it if you let the potting medium dry out — but beware of oversaturation too. The ideal temperature for germination is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The time it takes for the seedlings to appear can vary considerably. It can take anything from one to six months for them to be ready for transplanting.
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Miss Chen
2022年04月09日
Red Campion (Silene dioica) is an easy-to-grow herbaceous perennial. A native to Europe, and viewed as a weed in many native areas, this plant's commonly known cultivar in the United States is Clifford Moor1, although other varieties of Silene, such as Silene acaulis, Silene stellata, Silene caroliniana, and Silene coronaria, thrive throughout the U.S.
Red Campion is identifiable by its star-shaped, pink-red flowers and green and white variegated leaves. The plant is drought-tolerant, shade-loving, and grows approximately 24 inches tall with a three-foot spread.
This flower is a popular inclusion in the "spiller-filler-thriller" style of potted plant design, as the spiller feature. It also fares well when grown in clumps, as a border plant in rock gardens, or in meadow and cottage garden settings. Red campion is also known to be attractive to pollinators. When it is in bloom from May through July, in most zones, you will see bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds drawn to it.
Botanical Name Silene dioica
Common Name Clifford Moor, Variegated Catchfly, Morning Campion
Plant Type Herbaceous evergreen perennial
Mature Size Up to 24" high, 3' wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Clay, Loam, Sand
Soil pH 7-10
Bloom Time Late spring through early summer
Flower Color Pink-red
Hardiness Zones 5-8 USDA
Native Area Europe, United Kingdom
Red Campion Care
The first decision to be made is whether to grow Silene in the ground or as a potted plant. Campion has showcasing variability and can highlight the garden in pots or as an edging feature.
This is not a fickle plant and will grow well in drought and low-watering conditions, in a variety of soil types. Campion thrives in full sun to partial shade and is low maintenance with seasonal fertilization and minimal pruning.
The cultivated Clifford Moor variety of the Silene dioica is not considered invasive, however, the original species from Europe is categorized as invasive in some areas of the U.S. Check with your local Extension office to ensure the variety you select is approved. Just to be sure, it is always a good idea to plant it in an area where it won't negatively impact native plant habitats.
Light
Red campion varieties flourish in full to partial sun. When selecting placement locations, focus on an area with southern exposure where the plant can receive at least six hours of sunlight.
If you only have a partial shade location, though, not to worry. This plant will still grow in a more shady spot. In its native habitat, red campion is associated with growing along semi-shaded woodland edges and hedgerows.
Soil
Red campion grows best in dryer sandy and gravel-laden soils and it won't do well in heavy clay. While the plants prefer moisture, the soil must have excellent drainage. They can thrive in a range of soil pH levels. Once the plant has been established in the soil, it is best to leave it alone.
Water
Silene dioica is drought-tolerant but does prefer moist soil. However, it can succumb to root rot if left in standing water, so care needs to be taken not to over-water. This plant is a perfect addition to a xeriscape landscape due to its versatility for water needs.
Temperature and Humidity
Red campion is hardy in zones 5 through 8. It can tolerate cold but when temperatures are excessively hot this plant will need some type of shade and soil moisture.
Fertilizer
This plant can grow in a wide variety of soils and does not need any type of additional fertilizer to help it grow.
Pruning
Red Campion doesn't need much pruning. To keep it blooming, deadhead on a regular basis. Once this plant stops blooming gardeners can decide if they want to prune these evergreens down to the base.
Growing Red Campion From Seeds
Sow seeds six to 20 inches apart, and lightly cover with soil. If conditions are right, you should see good success as red campion germinates easily from seeds.
If started indoors, plant Red campion seedlings after the threat of frost has passed in early spring for late spring to summer blooms or in late autumn for early spring blooms. Dig for width, not depth, since this plant will spread and clump as it grows. Plant so the crown is even with the soil but do not cover the crown.
Red Campion is identifiable by its star-shaped, pink-red flowers and green and white variegated leaves. The plant is drought-tolerant, shade-loving, and grows approximately 24 inches tall with a three-foot spread.
This flower is a popular inclusion in the "spiller-filler-thriller" style of potted plant design, as the spiller feature. It also fares well when grown in clumps, as a border plant in rock gardens, or in meadow and cottage garden settings. Red campion is also known to be attractive to pollinators. When it is in bloom from May through July, in most zones, you will see bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds drawn to it.
Botanical Name Silene dioica
Common Name Clifford Moor, Variegated Catchfly, Morning Campion
Plant Type Herbaceous evergreen perennial
Mature Size Up to 24" high, 3' wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Clay, Loam, Sand
Soil pH 7-10
Bloom Time Late spring through early summer
Flower Color Pink-red
Hardiness Zones 5-8 USDA
Native Area Europe, United Kingdom
Red Campion Care
The first decision to be made is whether to grow Silene in the ground or as a potted plant. Campion has showcasing variability and can highlight the garden in pots or as an edging feature.
This is not a fickle plant and will grow well in drought and low-watering conditions, in a variety of soil types. Campion thrives in full sun to partial shade and is low maintenance with seasonal fertilization and minimal pruning.
The cultivated Clifford Moor variety of the Silene dioica is not considered invasive, however, the original species from Europe is categorized as invasive in some areas of the U.S. Check with your local Extension office to ensure the variety you select is approved. Just to be sure, it is always a good idea to plant it in an area where it won't negatively impact native plant habitats.
Light
Red campion varieties flourish in full to partial sun. When selecting placement locations, focus on an area with southern exposure where the plant can receive at least six hours of sunlight.
If you only have a partial shade location, though, not to worry. This plant will still grow in a more shady spot. In its native habitat, red campion is associated with growing along semi-shaded woodland edges and hedgerows.
Soil
Red campion grows best in dryer sandy and gravel-laden soils and it won't do well in heavy clay. While the plants prefer moisture, the soil must have excellent drainage. They can thrive in a range of soil pH levels. Once the plant has been established in the soil, it is best to leave it alone.
Water
Silene dioica is drought-tolerant but does prefer moist soil. However, it can succumb to root rot if left in standing water, so care needs to be taken not to over-water. This plant is a perfect addition to a xeriscape landscape due to its versatility for water needs.
Temperature and Humidity
Red campion is hardy in zones 5 through 8. It can tolerate cold but when temperatures are excessively hot this plant will need some type of shade and soil moisture.
Fertilizer
This plant can grow in a wide variety of soils and does not need any type of additional fertilizer to help it grow.
Pruning
Red Campion doesn't need much pruning. To keep it blooming, deadhead on a regular basis. Once this plant stops blooming gardeners can decide if they want to prune these evergreens down to the base.
Growing Red Campion From Seeds
Sow seeds six to 20 inches apart, and lightly cover with soil. If conditions are right, you should see good success as red campion germinates easily from seeds.
If started indoors, plant Red campion seedlings after the threat of frost has passed in early spring for late spring to summer blooms or in late autumn for early spring blooms. Dig for width, not depth, since this plant will spread and clump as it grows. Plant so the crown is even with the soil but do not cover the crown.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年04月05日
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is a great addition to any herb garden. Not only is it a relatively easy plant to grow, but it actually boasts two cooking uses for the price of one. The name cilantro refers to the plant's thin, green stems and flat, lacy leaves, which are best eaten fresh. Its other common name, coriander, refers to the seeds, which are used as a common cooking spice, especially in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisines. Cilantro is best planted in the early spring but also can be started in fall. It grows quickly, often yielding its first harvest of leaves within 30 days. Its seeds will be ready for harvest closer to three months from planting.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
Common Name Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
Botanical Name Coriandrum sativum
Family Apiaceae
Plant Type Annual, herb
Size 1–2 ft. tall, 1–1.5 ft. wide
Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun
Soil Type Loamy, moist, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic (6.2 to 6.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones Annual, thrives in 2–11 (USDA)
Native Area Asia, Europe, Africa
How to Plant Cilantro
When to Plant
Cilantro likes cool weather to grow. So plant it in the early spring after the threat of frost has passed. You also can do an early fall planting once the temperature starts to cool. However, in some climates you'll only be able to harvest the leaves and not the seeds before frost hits in the fall.
Selecting a Planting Site
An ideal planting site for cilantro should have loose, well-drained soil. It can handle either full sun or partial shade but tends to prefer some afternoon shade in warmer climates. Make sure cilantro isn’t planted too close to taller plants that will shade it as they leaf out in the spring. Container growth also is a good option for cilantro.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Seeds should be planted about 1 to 2 inches apart and roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin seedlings to about 6 to 8 inches apart. Rows of cilantro plants should be at least a foot apart to provide good airflow. A support structure shouldn’t be necessary.
Cilantro Plant Care
Light
The cilantro plant thrives with about six hours of direct sunlight on most days. However, when plotting your garden, select a spot that won't receive too much high-noon sunlight, as harsh rays can burn cilantro leaves. If you live in a hot climate, consider planting your cilantro where it can receive some afternoon shade or in pots that can be periodically moved into the shade. Too much heat and direct sun can cause the plant to bolt (go to seed) early.
Soil
A loose, loamy, fast-draining soil with a slightly acidic soil pH is best for cilantro. Too much retained moisture in the soil can cause the plant to bolt early.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy as seeds germinate and seedlings develop. Roughly 1 inch of water per week is ideal for seedlings. More mature plants don’t require as much water, but they still like moist soil. Just make sure their roots are never waterlogged.
Temperature and Humidity
Cilantro thrives best in relatively cool environments, preferring temperatures that hover between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit—too hot and the plant can bolt easily. However, though cilantro is a cool-weather herb, it is still frost-sensitive. Keep row covers handy to protect your plants if unseasonably cool weather is predicted. Cilantro also struggles in high humidity and climates that get a lot of rain.
Fertilizer
Cilantro typically does not need fertilizer to grow successfully, but treating it monthly with an organic blend made for herbs can't hurt. Additionally, feel free to mix a nutritious compost or other organic matter into your soil to help the plants thrive, especially when first planting seeds.
Pollination
Cilantro plants are pollinated via bees and other pollinators.
Types of Cilantro
There are several varieties of cilantro, including:
'Leisure': Popular for its flavor and bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Longstanding': Various cultivars that tend to be tall and slow to bolt; matures in 60 to 90 days
'Calypso': Very slow to bolt, maturing in 50 to 55 days but not going to seed until 120 to 150 days
'Santo': Often sold as "standard" cilantro; good bolt-resistance; matures in 50 to 55 days
'Cruiser': Upright habit and strong stems on uniform plants; matures in 50 to 55 days
Cilantro vs. Parsley
Cilantro and parsley varieties can look quite similar at first glance. They both have thin green stems with flat leaves. However, cilantro leaves are typically more curved while parsley leaves are more pointed. Parsley also has a milder scent and taste, while cilantro’s aroma and flavor are very distinct (and almost soap-like to some people).
Harvesting Cilantro
This herb is quick to respond to all your hard work, often ready to be harvested for its fresh leaves in under a month. You can begin to harvest leaves once the plants are around 6 inches tall, which typically occurs around three to four weeks after you first sow seeds. Harvest the leaves you need by pinching back portions of the upper stem, which promotes new growth and fuller plants. Aim not to take more than a third of the leaves at a time. To harvest seeds, allow the plant to flower. Leave the resulting seed heads on the plant to dry out. Then, shake them into a paper bag to release the seeds, or snip the entire seedhead, place it into a paper bag, put the bag in a dark, well-ventilated, cool place, and allow the seeds to finish drying in the bag for easier harvest.
Cilantro leaves are best used fresh but will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Cilantro loses its flavor when dried, so fresh use is best. Once they're fully dry, store coriander seeds in an airtight container in a cool, dry spot.
How to Grow Cilantro in Pots
If you don’t have a suitable garden spot for cilantro, try a container instead. Its relatively small size makes it a great herb to grow in containers. A pot that’s at least 8 inches wide and deep is best for cilantro. Make sure it has drainage holes. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to evaporate through its walls.
Pruning
You’ll generally prune your cilantro plants as you harvest leaves. If you see a flower stalk beginning to grow, you can trim it off in an attempt to prolong leaf growth. However, if you’re hoping to harvest seeds, you’ll want to permit the flower stalk to grow. Wait until the end of the season, if possible, and allow the plant to flower so you can harvest seeds.
Propagating Cilantro
Cilantro often will self-seed in the garden, propagating itself. You also can harvest and save seeds yourself for later plantings. The time to do this is in the summer as the seed heads dry out on the plants. Here’s how:
Once the seed heads are brown and dry on the plant, trim them off. Don't wait too long, or the stems of the degrading plant might flop over and spill the seed heads.
Place them upside-down in a paper bag. In a few days, they should split open and release the seeds.
Allow the seeds to fully dry in a cool, dry spot out of direct sunlight.
Place them in an airtight container labeled with the date. They should be viable to plant for at least a few years.
How to Grow Cilantro From Seed
Prior to planting, slightly crush or rub cilantro seeds between your fingers to remove the husk. It’s also helpful to soak them in water overnight. This increases the chances of germination. It’s best to sow cilantro seeds directly in the ground or pot where they’ll ultimately reside, as the plants don’t like having their roots disturbed. But you also can start them in biodegradable pots that can be planted in the soil of their eventual growing site.
Potting and Repotting Cilantro
Any quality well-draining potting mix will do for cilantro, but one that’s organic and formulated for herbs is ideal. Due to cilantro’s sensitive roots, repotting is best avoided. Instead, make sure you choose a suitable growing container for your seeds right from the start.
Overwintering
As cilantro is an annual, overwintering is not necessary. In hot climates, cilantro planted in the fall can actually continue to grow throughout the winter.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Cilantro is generally resistant to any serious pest or disease issues. Soil that’s too moist can cause rot. The strong fragrance of cilantro typically repels pests, but some common insect pests, including aphids and leaf hoppers, might affect the plants. Use an insecticidal soap that’s safe for edible plants if you spot any pests.
FAQ
Is cilantro easy to grow?
Cilantro is an easy herb to grow as long as it has mild temperatures and adequate sun and moisture.
How long does it take to grow cilantro?
Cilantro leaves are usually ready to start harvesting in about a month after planting. Seeds take about three months to be harvestable.
Does cilantro come back every year?
Cilantro is an annual, completing its life cycle in one growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月28日
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a herbaceous perennial that thrives in much of North America and is very easy to grow. It has a clump-forming growth habit with square stems and triangular to oval, gray-green leaves with toothed edges that stretch around 3 inches long. Flower spikes appear in the late spring to early fall, bearing clusters of small blooms that are white with light purple markings.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
This plant is a fast grower and can quickly spread throughout the landscape if not kept in check. It will reach its mature size in a single season and should be planted in the spring. Note that, while many cats enjoy catnip, the oils of the plant are technically toxic to them.1
Common Name Catnip, catmint
Botanical Name Nepeta cataria
Family Lamiaceae
Plant Type Perennial, herb
Size 2–3 ft. tall and wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic, neutral, alkaline (6.1 to 7.8)
Bloom Time Spring, summer, fall
Hardiness Zones 3–7 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia
Toxicity Oil is toxic to cats
How to Plant Catnip
When to Plant
Plant catnip in the spring after the threat of frost has passed in your area. Start catnip seeds indoors around six weeks prior to your projected last frost date.
Selecting a Planting Site
The ideal garden location for catnip will get lots of sunlight and have well-drained soil. Make sure no taller plants nearby are creating too much shade for the catnip throughout the day. However, if you live in a hot climate, catnip will appreciate some afternoon shade. Catnip also grows well in containers. In fact, a planting site with some kind of boundary, such as a pot, raised garden bed, or stone wall, will help to contain catnip's spread.
Spacing, Depth, and Support
Space catnip plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the garden. Position nursery plants and seedlings at the same depth they were in their previous container. Lightly cover seeds with soil. A support structure is typically not necessary for catnip.
Catnip Plant Care
Light
Catnip prefers full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight on most days. Too little light can cause leggy growth with sparse foliage. However, catnip does struggle in extreme heat. So if you live in a hot climate, give your catnip a little shade from the strong afternoon sun.
Soil
These plants aren’t fussy about their soil as long as they have good drainage. They can tolerate poor, rocky, and dry soils. A well-draining sandy or loamy soil is best with a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil pH.
Water
Catnip is a very drought-tolerant plant, and sitting in waterlogged soil can kill it. Keep the soil of seedlings lightly moist but not soggy. Mature plants likely won’t need watering unless you have a prolonged period of drought. If the foliage is wilting, give your catnip a deep watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Catnip prefers temperatures between 55 and 85 degrees. The plant tends to struggle in hot, humid climates. Especially in high humidity, make sure there is good air circulation around the plant to help prevent fungal growth.
Fertilizer
Mix some compost into the soil at the time of planting to give your catnip a boost. After that, catnip typically won’t need additional feeding. But if you have very poor soil, you can use an all-purpose liquid plant food or a layer of compost each spring.
Pollination
Catnip is a self-pollinating plant. It will attract bees and other pollinators to the garden.
Types of Catnip
Besides Nepeta cataria, there are several plants that go by the name catnip, including:
Nepeta citriodora: Known as lemon catnip, this plant grows slightly smaller than Nepeta cataria and has a lemony fragrance.
Nepeta camphorata: Commonly referred to as camphor catnip, this plant remains under 2 feet tall and wide.
Nepeta parnassica: Known as Greek catnip, this plant also remains smaller than 2 feet tall and wide and bears light pink flowers.
Catnip vs. Catmint
The catnip plant Nepeta cataria is commonly confused with the catmint plant Nepeta mussinii. Both plants have gray-green foliage on square stems. However, catmint has a longer blooming period. And its flowers are purple while catnip’s are primarily white. Moreover, catnip is the plant that attracts cats while catmint does not. Catmint also generally has a nicer form, making it better for landscaping purposes.
Harvesting Catnip
Harvest catnip when it’s in bloom. Late morning is good time to harvest after the dew has dried but before the day heats up and potentially causes the plant to wilt. Cut off entire stems or even the whole plant if you wish. Catnip is used dried in sachets, teas, cat toys, and more. Hang the stems upside-down for drying in a dark, dry, well-ventilated space as soon as possible after harvesting. Once they’ve dried out, which usually takes two to three weeks, the leaves and flowers can be crumbled for use.
How to Grow Catnip in Pots
Growing catnip in a pot is a good option because it will prevent the plant from spreading into unwanted places. Use a container that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, and make sure it has a drainage hole. An unglazed clay container is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Use a well-draining potting mix, and plant your catnip at the same depth it was in its previous container.
Pruning
Pruning catnip is primarily to limit its spread and tidy up its growth. To minimize its spread, prune off the flowers as they’re starting to degrade and before they go to seed. This also can encourage further blooming. Also, cut down new sprouts from underground runners as they appear if you don’t want the plant to spread. Furthermore, pinch back the stems on young plants to encourage bushier growth. And after the first frost in the fall, cut back mature plants to just a few inches from the soil. They will regenerate in the spring with fresh growth.
Propagating Catnip
Catnip will readily spread on its own. But it’s also easy to propagate the plant via cuttings. Not only is this an inexpensive way to get a new plant, but cutting back the stems can also promote bushier growth on the parent plant. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring or early summer. Here’s how:
Cut off a 4- to 6-inch piece of stem at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node.
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Place the cutting either in a small container of water or moist soilless potting mix. A healthy root system will typically form in either scenario. Put the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Change the container water each day, or continue to keep the potting mix moist.
Roots should appear within a week. Once the plant has produced new foliage growth, it’s ready to be transplanted.
Mature catnip also can be propagated via division. This is a great way to reinvigorate an overgrown plant. Here’s how:
Dig up the plant, aiming to keep its roots as intact as possible.
Use shears or a sharp spade to divide the clump in half.
Replant the separate clumps at the same depth they were previously growing.
How to Grow Catnip From Seed
Start seeds indoors about six weeks prior to your projected last frost date in the spring. First, place them in a freezer overnight, and then soak them in water for 24 hours. This stratification process can encourage germination. Then, plant the seeds about 1/8 inch deep in a tray filled with moistened seed-starting mix. Place the tray in a warm, bright spot. Continue to keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within two weeks. Plant the seedlings outside after frost is out of the forecast.
Potting and Repotting Catnip
Potted catnip plants will generally need more water and food than those grown in the ground. However, make sure the container does not become waterlogged. Plan to repot your catnip when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes and popping up above the soil line. Choose one container size up, and replant with fresh potting mix. Even if your plant doesn’t need a larger container, it’s ideal to refresh it with new potting mix every couple of years.
Overwintering
Catnip typically does fine over the winter within its growing zones. Cut back any tender new growth in the fall, so cold weather doesn’t damage it and weaken the plant. And be sure to stop fertilizing in the fall to avoid promoting new growth. Don’t water the plant over winter. Wet soil in the wintertime can be fatal.
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Catnip isn’t prone to many pest or disease issues. If the plant sits in waterlogged soil for too long, it can succumb to rot. Another concern is the plant attracting cats, who will try to rub and roll on the foliage and potentially damage the stems. Placing some garden fencing or stakes around the plant can help to prevent this, as can growing the catnip in a container.
FAQ
Is catnip easy to grow?
Catnip plants are quite easy to grow and can tolerate many different growing conditions.
How long does it take to grow catnip?
Catnip is a fast grower and will reach its mature size within one growing season.
Does catnip come back every year?
Catnip is a perennial plant and will come back in the garden each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月26日
Catmint (Nepeta) is a perennial herb that is a member of the mint family. It is an extremely easy-growing plant with few pests or problems. Nepeta has slightly aromatic gray-green foliage with a delicate, lacy appearance. Its billowing foliage is topped with spikes of flowers in early summer, with repeat blooms throughout the season. The flowers can be white, pink, or lavender-blue.
Most catmint varieties have a somewhat sprawling growth habit, making them nice plants for edging planting areas and for running along paths. However, there are a few tall-growing varieties, like ‘Six Hills Giant’, with a more upright habit. As with many scented, gray-foliage plants, catmint is deer-resistant. It grows quickly and, in most climates, can be planted from spring to early fall.
Botanical Name Nepeta spp.
Common Name Catmint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10 to 24 inches tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Dry, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Blue, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa
How to Plant Catmint
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile and produce no viable seeds. This is a plus if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties, but it means you will need to either buy plants or make plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, there are some varieties that are more compact, and there are others that will grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant description before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will give you stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
Light
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Soil
Humus-rich, well-draining soil is ideal. Many species grow easily in a wide range of soil types, including dry clay and sandy or rocky soil.
Water
First-year plants need frequent watering, but once rooted, catmints are drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Catmints like cool temperatures and benefit from afternoon shade in warm climates. They are often not tolerant of high heat and humidity.
Fertilizer
Add compost to the plant’s base in the fall, but once rooted it needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties
'Six Hills Giant’Nepeta x faassenii is one of the tallest-growing Nepetas and has lavender-blue flowers. It grows up to 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide, so be sure to give it plenty of room in your garden.
Nepeta subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams' features pink flowers with burgundy bracts. This variety likes a bit more water than most Nepetas. It grows to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ has lavender-blue flowers with 8-inch spikes. This 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year reaches 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and is one of the hardiest and most reliable Nepetas.
Nepeta recemosa 'Little Titch' is a dwarf variety with pale blue flowers. It is just as long-blooming as many of its larger cousins, but its growth stops at about 8 to 10 inches tall and 15 inches wide.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a type of catmint and is arguably the best-known species in the Nepeta genus, at least among home gardeners. It's not the only type of catmint that makes cats loopy, but it's your best bet if that's your goal. Catnip has similar growing and care needs to other catmint plants and matures at 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It blooms from May to September and has white flowers spotted with pale purple. Catnip is relatively cold-hardy and grows well in zones 3 to 9.
Pruning
Most catmints will repeat-bloom if they are sheared back after their initial flowering. Some won’t provide much of a second show, but their foliage will be refreshed and tidied by the shearing.
Propagating Catmint
Catmint plants will continue to grow and bloom well for years. But if you’d like to divide them to make more plants, all Nepeta varieties respond well to division in the spring. Find a section of the plant with undeveloped shoots and a good root system, and slice it vertically with a spade. Replant the division, and keep watering it until it becomes established.
Landscape Uses for Catmint
Catmint is a classic choice for planting under roses. The pale colors of catmint complement most roses, and the soft, frilly foliage hides the ugly "knees" of the rose bush. Catmint is also a wonderful plant for edging, where it softens hard lines. Catmint plants will gracefully spill over walls and walkways and are great for providing contrast to spiky plants like iris and yucca.
The pastel blues of many catmint flowers pair well with pink and yellow flowers, such as those of daylilies and yarrow (Achillea). Because of its similarity to lavender plants, catmint is often used as a replacement in areas where lavender does not grow well.
Most catmint varieties have a somewhat sprawling growth habit, making them nice plants for edging planting areas and for running along paths. However, there are a few tall-growing varieties, like ‘Six Hills Giant’, with a more upright habit. As with many scented, gray-foliage plants, catmint is deer-resistant. It grows quickly and, in most climates, can be planted from spring to early fall.
Botanical Name Nepeta spp.
Common Name Catmint
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 10 to 24 inches tall, 1 to 2 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade
Soil Type Dry, well-draining
Soil pH Acidic to alkaline (5.0 to 8.0)
Bloom Time Late spring, summer
Flower Color Blue, white, pink
Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 (USDA)
Native Area Europe, Asia, Africa
How to Plant Catmint
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile and produce no viable seeds. This is a plus if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties, but it means you will need to either buy plants or make plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a sunny spot with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, there are some varieties that are more compact, and there are others that will grow 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant description before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will give you stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
Light
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Soil
Humus-rich, well-draining soil is ideal. Many species grow easily in a wide range of soil types, including dry clay and sandy or rocky soil.
Water
First-year plants need frequent watering, but once rooted, catmints are drought-tolerant.
Temperature and Humidity
Catmints like cool temperatures and benefit from afternoon shade in warm climates. They are often not tolerant of high heat and humidity.
Fertilizer
Add compost to the plant’s base in the fall, but once rooted it needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties
'Six Hills Giant’Nepeta x faassenii is one of the tallest-growing Nepetas and has lavender-blue flowers. It grows up to 36 inches tall and 30 inches wide, so be sure to give it plenty of room in your garden.
Nepeta subsessilis ‘Sweet Dreams' features pink flowers with burgundy bracts. This variety likes a bit more water than most Nepetas. It grows to 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide.
Nepeta racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ has lavender-blue flowers with 8-inch spikes. This 2007 Perennial Plant of the Year reaches 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide and is one of the hardiest and most reliable Nepetas.
Nepeta recemosa 'Little Titch' is a dwarf variety with pale blue flowers. It is just as long-blooming as many of its larger cousins, but its growth stops at about 8 to 10 inches tall and 15 inches wide.
Catmint vs. Catnip
Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a type of catmint and is arguably the best-known species in the Nepeta genus, at least among home gardeners. It's not the only type of catmint that makes cats loopy, but it's your best bet if that's your goal. Catnip has similar growing and care needs to other catmint plants and matures at 2 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. It blooms from May to September and has white flowers spotted with pale purple. Catnip is relatively cold-hardy and grows well in zones 3 to 9.
Pruning
Most catmints will repeat-bloom if they are sheared back after their initial flowering. Some won’t provide much of a second show, but their foliage will be refreshed and tidied by the shearing.
Propagating Catmint
Catmint plants will continue to grow and bloom well for years. But if you’d like to divide them to make more plants, all Nepeta varieties respond well to division in the spring. Find a section of the plant with undeveloped shoots and a good root system, and slice it vertically with a spade. Replant the division, and keep watering it until it becomes established.
Landscape Uses for Catmint
Catmint is a classic choice for planting under roses. The pale colors of catmint complement most roses, and the soft, frilly foliage hides the ugly "knees" of the rose bush. Catmint is also a wonderful plant for edging, where it softens hard lines. Catmint plants will gracefully spill over walls and walkways and are great for providing contrast to spiky plants like iris and yucca.
The pastel blues of many catmint flowers pair well with pink and yellow flowers, such as those of daylilies and yarrow (Achillea). Because of its similarity to lavender plants, catmint is often used as a replacement in areas where lavender does not grow well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月17日
'Casa Blanca' is a beloved hybrid Oriental lily which is part of the Lilium genus. Its gorgeous flowering bulbs bloom in mid to late summer after the Asiatic lilies, which earlier in the season. Both types of lilies are easy to grow. 'Casa Blanca' has firm leaves with very large and noticeably fragrant flowers.
Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms.
Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun.
Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds.
Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden.
Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca'
Common Name Casa Blanca Lily
Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial)
Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade
Soil Type Organic, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil
Bloom Time Mid to late summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9
Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines
Toxicity Toxic to cats
Planting Instructions
Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep.
Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding.
With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year.
Light
This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems.
Soil
The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture.
Water
Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions.
Fertilizer
When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks.
Temperature
If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring.
Cut Flowers
When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing.
Propagating Casa Blanca Lily
Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area.
Common Pests/Diseases
Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms.
Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun.
Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds.
Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden.
Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca'
Common Name Casa Blanca Lily
Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial)
Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide
Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade
Soil Type Organic, well-drained
Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil
Bloom Time Mid to late summer
Flower Color White
Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9
Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines
Toxicity Toxic to cats
Planting Instructions
Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep.
Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding.
With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year.
Light
This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out.
Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems.
Soil
The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture.
Water
Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions.
Fertilizer
When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks.
Temperature
If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring.
Cut Flowers
When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing.
Propagating Casa Blanca Lily
Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area.
Common Pests/Diseases
Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月29日
Cape honeysuckle flowers are a blazing orange hue, sure to brighten up your tropical garden. It is used as either a shrub or liana and its color and sweet nectar attract hummingbirds. Not only is it versatile in looks, but it also is easy to maintain, making it a perfect idea for a splash of uniqueness in your garden.
The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis
Common Name Cape honeysuckle
Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Well drained
Soil pH 5.6-8.5
Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring
Flower Color Orange to orange-red
Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection.
Native Area South Africa
Cape Honeysuckle Care
The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola.
During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced.
There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance.
Light
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms.
Soil
Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind.
Water
Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance.
Temperature and Humidity
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost.
Cape Honeysuckle Varieties
'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers.
'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet.
'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers.
Pruning
Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring.
This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle
You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks.
How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed
Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year.
Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
The name "Cape honeysuckle" came about because the native region for this shrub is in South Africa, by the Cape of Good Hope. It is a bit misleading: This is not true honeysuckle. Real honeysuckles belong to the Caprifoliaceae family and are found in the Lonicera genus. Other members include the desert willow, northern and southern catalpa, and jacaranda.
How to Grow and Care for a Peperomia Plant
Each pinnately compound leaf is made up of five to nine diamond-shaped leaflets. Whether they are evergreen or deciduous depends on how cool the climate gets in winter. Cape honeysuckle is a fast-grower that can gain anywhere from 13- to 25-inches tall in its first year after a successful spring planting.
Botanical Name Tecoma capensis
Common Name Cape honeysuckle
Plant Type Flowering evergreen shrub
Mature Size 3-10 ft. tall as a shrub; 25-30 ft. long as a vine
Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type Well drained
Soil pH 5.6-8.5
Bloom Time Fall, winter, spring
Flower Color Orange to orange-red
Hardiness Zone 9-11 (USDA); it can survive in zone 8 with some protection.
Native Area South Africa
Cape Honeysuckle Care
The shape of this plant depends entirely on how you let it grow, as it can either be a shrub or vine. As a shrub, it can be anywhere from 3- to 10-feet tall, depending on how consistently you prune it. In vine form it will travel a lot farther, reaching lengths of 25-30 feet or more. Usually, the cape honeysuckle is treated as a shrub and clipped into a box shape. However, this plant also likes to vine, so consider it for your trellis or pergola.
During the fall through spring (possibly the entire year), the Cape honeysuckle will be covered with an abundance of orange (sometimes reddish or yellow, depending on variety) trumpet-shaped blooms. Once the flowers have been pollinated, long capsule fruits are produced.
There aren't many problems with this plant. If your zone gets some frost, this can cause damage to the leaves and branches. You may run across problems with too little or too many nutrients, which is usually most apparent in the foliage. There may be other environmental problems like leaf scorch. Overall, though, this shrub should stay happy and healthy over its lifetime with little maintenance.
Light
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant and does prefer full sun. Some light shade, however, is acceptable, though shaded plants will produce fewer blooms.
Soil
Don't fret about the pH of your soil too much, as this plant can handle both acidic and alkaline soils. It also grows in salty locations like coastal regions and can handle gusts of wind.
Water
Water your Cape honeysuckle weekly if you are growing it in full sun, or just once or twice a month if it is in shade. After a year of regular watering, the roots should be established enough to provide drought tolerance.
Temperature and Humidity
Cape honeysuckle is a tropical plant that thrives in hardiness zones 9–11. It is heat and drought tolerant, but its branches and leaves tend to die back at temperatures under 25 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
If you've tested the soil and detected a lack of nutrients, go ahead and use some fertilizer. It is usually not needed, though. It is a good idea to mulch your cape honeysuckle if there is a predicted frost.
Cape Honeysuckle Varieties
'Aurea' features golden-yellow flowers.
'Coccinea' has blooms that are bright red or scarlet.
'Salmonea' produces orange or pink flowers.
Pruning
Pruning your Cape honeysuckle depends on the shape you've chosen for it. If you're going for a hedge, trimming may be required on a regular basis since this grows fast. Cut it back to the ground every three to four years in the spring (or as needed) to help keep it from sprawling. You should also prune away branches that were damaged by frost at the start of spring.
This plant does produce suckers. Clip them away if you don't want them to spread. Less maintenance will be needed if you are using it like a vine. You will just need to keep it trained on its support system.
Propagating Cape Honeysuckle
You can easily propagate Cape honeysuckle with softwood cuttings, which should start producing new roots within two to 14 weeks.
How to Grow Cape Honeysuckle From Seed
Cape honeysuckle grows well from stratified seeds; plant them in shallow trays and covered in sand or seed-starting mix. Seeds will germinate in six to 21 days. Plant seedlings when they feel sturdy; Cape honeysuckle will bloom in the second year.
Potting and Repotting Cape Honeysuckle
Cape honeysuckle makes for great container plants if you live outside the tropical weather they crave. Plant them pots with good-sized drainage holes, in standard potting mix, and increase the container size by 2-inches each time you repot. Bring these pots indoors in colder months, to protect them for next season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Cape honeysuckle attracts aphids and scale insects, both of which enjoy the plant's new growth and foliage. You can rid your plant of these pests with insecticidal soap.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月23日
Growing cannas in your garden is an easy way to create instant tropical flair. Cannas are tropical and subtropical flowering plants with large, banana-like leaves. Cannas' popularity and active hybridizing have resulted in a dazzling array of cannas to choose from, many with large, showy flowers and variegated leaves that look like stained glass when the sun shines through them.
Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year.
Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis
Common Name Canna lily
Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones)
Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Tropics
How to Grow Canna Plants
In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring).
Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves.
Light
Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer.
Soil
Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH.
Water
Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack.
Temperature and Humidity
Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer
In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer.
Propagating Canna Plants
Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out.
The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet.
Varieties of Cannas
'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall
'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall
'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall
'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall
Pruning
To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom.
Landscape Uses
Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors.
There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
Striking flowers notwithstanding, cannas are often grown for their foliage alone. The large, paddle-like leaves come in a range of greens and blue-greens and can have variegation and stripes. Somewhat tubular and lily-like, Canna flowers come in shades and combinations of yellow, orange, red, and pink and are borne on tall stalks poking out of the foliage. Rhizomes planted in spring after the last frost will take a few weeks to sprout but will then grow at a rapid pace and may even flower in the first year.
Because most Cannas sold today are the result of many crosses, Cannas are rarely classified and are simply considered hybrids.
Botanical Name Canna × generalis
Common Name Canna lily
Plant Type Annual flower (in most zones)
Mature Size 18 inches to 10 feet tall and 1.5 to 6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, orange, red, pink
Hardiness Zones 8 to 11
Native Area Tropics
How to Grow Canna Plants
In planting zones 8 and up, cannas will repeat-bloom throughout summer, and throughout the year in zones 9 and above. For everyone else, there are three options: You can let them die off each fall and start with fresh rhizomes in the spring; you can pot the plants and bring them indoors to live as houseplants; or you can dig up and store the rhizomes for the winter (and replant them in spring).
Canna leaves are covered with a waxy substance that repels water and protects against fungus. They may be bothered by rust or bacterial blight especially in poorly drained soils. Pest problems can include leaf rollers and caterpillars while slugs and snails may munch on the leaves.
Light
Cannas do best in full sun. This means they may need more water in really hot climates, but they need heat to spur their growth. In the hottest area, some afternoon shade helps flowers last longer.
Soil
Plant cannas in rich, moist soil, ideally with a slightly acid to neutral soil pH.
Water
Cannas need consistent water and evenly moist soil. Water often, especially in extreme heat. Insufficient water will cause the leaves to tear or crack.
Temperature and Humidity
Blooming depends on the climate and weather. In areas with cool springs, the plants may be slow to get started. Potting them up indoors, before your last frost date, and moving them out while they are already growing, will help them bloom earlier. As tropical plants, cannas prefer humid air but can tolerate relative dryness, especially if they are properly watered.
Fertilizer
In addition to needing lots of water, cannas are hungry plants, although they store some food in their rhizomes. Feed them in early spring and midsummer, using a balanced fertilizer.
Propagating Canna Plants
Since most of the newer varieties are hybrids, canna lilies are generally grown from rhizomes rather than seed. If you live in a climate with frost and would like to preserve outdoor plants for the next season, cut the foliage and stem to 6 inches. Then, dig the rhizomes and let them dry in a protected, shady spot. When dry, shake off the excess soil, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper, and store them in a dark, cool location until spring. Check on them periodically to make sure they are not rotting or drying out.
The size and amount of blooms of cannas are linked to the number of "eyes" on a rhizome. The more eyes, the bigger plant and better blooms. Look for rhizomes with 3-5 eyes, and plant them in spring with the eyes facing up 4 to 5 inches deep. Or, if you'd like to get a head start on the season, pot them up indoors, four to six weeks before your last frost, and move them out once the temperature warms. Keep the rhizomes moist but not soaking wet.
Varieties of Cannas
'Lucifer': red flowers with yellow borders; green leaves; 2 feet tall
'The President': scarlet blossoms; green leaves; 3 to 3.5 feet tall
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): orange flowers; yellow and green striped foliage; 4 to 6 feet tall
'Stuttgart': orange flowers; green and white variegated foliage; 3 to 4 feet tall
'Tropicanna': dark variegated leaves with large, orange flowers; also comes in Black and Gold; 4 to 6 feet tall
Pruning
To keep your plants flowering throughout the season, deadhead them as the blooms start to fade. If you prefer to grow cannas for their foliage alone, you can cut back the flower stalks before they even have a chance to bloom.
Landscape Uses
Cannas can't help but be focal points. A single specimen can anchor a circle garden. Planted in a mass, they can look both tropical and Victorian. The colors and tropical feel combine well with other "hot" colors.
There's even a variety of canna that grows in extremely wet soil--or even in water gardens. This plant is a hybrid of Canna glauca. They look gorgeous in bog gardens, or can be planted in baskets in water gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月21日
Cannas (Canna spp.) are a genus of beautiful, easy-to-grow tropical and sub-tropical plants with showy flowers that come in red, pink, yellow, orange, and cream. Their flowers are very attractive to hummingbirds. Canna leaves are wide and long (resembling banana leaves) in green, bronze, or multicolored patterns. Most cannas grow up to 6 feet tall and occasionally as tall as 8 feet. These plants grow from rhizomes, modified stems that store nutrients and send up shoots.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
Throughout their hardiness zone, cannas can remain in the ground as true perennials. In colder climates, the rhizomes can be lifted in the fall, stored over winter, and replanted in the spring. Best planted from rhizomes in the early spring, cannas can take a few weeks to sprout. After sprouting, they grow at a fairly quick pace and typically flower in their first year.
How to Grow and Care for Avocados as Houseplants
Botanical Name Canna
Common Name Canna, canna lily
Plant Type Flowering perennial (annual in colder zones)
Mature Size 1 1/2– 8 feet tall, 1 1/2–6 feet wide
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Rich, moist, well-draining
Soil pH 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink, cream, white; solid color or with contrasting spots
Hardiness Zones 7 to 10 ( USDA); rhizomes must be dug and stored over winter in colder climates
Native Areas South America, Central America, West Indies, Mexico, southeastern United States
Canna Care
In the garden, plant canna rhizomes horizontally in a planting hole four to six inches deep, fill the planting hole with soil and then add a thick layer of mulch. Space rhizomes 18 to 24 inches apart. These plants don't like to be crowded, and if other plants encroach they might refuse to bloom.
In colder climates, after the first frost in fall, cut the canna back to the ground. Carefully dig up the rhizome clumps and store them through the winter in peat moss or vermiculite in a location that doesn't fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray the rhizomes with water infrequently to prevent them from drying out, but don't allow them to sit in a consistently damp medium. You can bring container-grown plants indoors in their pots.
Canna leaves have a waxy coating that helps resist fungal diseases. They are also generally resistant to pest problems, although you might find caterpillars or grasshoppers eating the leaves—remove them by hand.
Light
These plants prefer full sun to grow vibrant leaves and flowers, but they can survive in partial sun. Just make sure that the soil doesn't become overly moist.
Soil
Cannas can tolerate a variety of soils with proper drainage. They prefer rich soils that are high in organic matter. A soil pH of roughly 6.5 is ideal, but cannas can handle a wide range of acidic to alkaline soils.
Water
Water your canna once or twice a week. The soil should be kept uniformly moist but not soggy. Otherwise, this can lead to rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Cannas are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost, but they thrive in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. In areas that have relatively cool springtime temperatures, canna growth might start slowly.
In cooler climates, Zones 7 and lower, you can get a head start on the growing season by starting them indoors in pots and then move them outdoors once they are actively growing and all danger of frost has passed.
These plants are native to tropical zones, so they also do well in warm and humid conditions. If you live in a dry climate, you can raise the humidity around a container plant by placing it on a dish filled with water and pebbles, making sure the bottom of the pot isn't touching the water.
Fertilizer
Cannas are heavy feeders. So use plenty of compost or organic fertilizer to keep the plant happy. If you are using organic materials, you cannot overfertilize a canna. Feed monthly throughout the growing season, starting in the early spring, with a balanced fertilizer.
Canna Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of cannas, ranging in color and size. Some popular varieties include:
'King Humbert': an older variety with dark bronze-purple foliage and large red to orange-red flowers
'Shenandoah': bears deep pink flowers with burgundy leaves
'Tropicana': produces orange flowers with leaves striped with burgundy, gold, yellow, pink, and green
'Pretoria' ('Bengal Tiger'): bicolored orange flowers and yellow and green striped foliage
'The President': very large scarlet flowers provide striking contrast with its deep green foliage
'Stuttgart': produces orange flowers and is distinguished by its bold striped green-and-white foliage
Pruning
Cannas generally do not need pruning, but deadheading the flowers (once they have faded) will produce more blooms. If you prize the foliage of your cannas over their flowers, you can cut off the flower stalks before they bloom to enable the plants to direct their energy toward the foliage.
Propagating Cannas
Cannas are readily propagated by digging up the rhizomes and dividing them for replanting. Do this early in the spring or in the fall.
Carefully dig up the entire plant, taking care not to damage the rhizomes or the roots of the mother plant. Trim the above-ground growth so only about 1 inch extends from the crown (where the stems meet the rhizomes).
Clean excess soil from the rhizomes and note where the old rhizomes meet the new; cut along these joints to separate the rhizomes, making sure each piece has one or more eyes. If dividing in the fall, store them for the winter, then replant in the spring.
Plant each rhizome division in prepared soil at a depth of four to six inches.
Growing Cannas in Containers
Cannas are large plants, so bigger is better in terms of choosing an appropriate container. Choose a container that is no smaller than 16 inches in diameter with adequate drainage holes. A large container is not only important for aesthetic reasons of scale, A large container also gives the plant space to grow a strong and healthy root system, and prevents the container from becoming top heavy and tipping over as the plant matures.
Make sure the container has good drainage, and fill it with quality potting soil. Because cannas are heavy feeders, mix some slow-release fertilizer into your potting soil before you plant.
If you live in a cold-winter climate and have saved rhizomes from last year's plants, you can get a head start on the next growing season by potting up the rhizomes indoors four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. Maintain adequate moisture but do not make the soil overly wet. Move the pots outdoors or plant in the ground after the danger of frost has passed.
Common Pests/ Diseases
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles delight in chewing holes in canna leaves and flowers. But the worst pest is a caterpillar known as the canna leaf roller. The canna leaf roller moth lays its eggs in the bud of a growing stalk, and the hatching caterpillars leave a sticky webbing that prevents the leaf from unfurling. Remove a leaf if you see that it's unable to unfurl, and consider spraying the plant with insecticidal soap if pests are present
Cannas also are susceptible to rust fungus, canna mosaic virus, and aster yellows. Observe foliage that appears sickly and discolored. With rust fungus, you often can simply remove the affected leaves. But with canna mosaic virus and aster yellows, you often have to dispose of the entire plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年12月15日
Donkey's tail (also commonly known as burro's tail or lamb's tail) is a popular and easy-to-grow succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-drop shaped leaves. Native to Honduras and Mexico, mature specimens grow slow and steady but can reach trailing lengths of up to four feet long in six years' time (though the average length is closer to 24 inches). Indoors, the succulent can be planted and propagated year-round, while outdoors it does best planted in early spring. Red, yellow, or white flowers can emerge in late summer, though the plant rarely blooms indoors.
Botanical name Sedum morganianum
Common name Donkey's tail, burro's tail, lamb's tail
Plant type Evergreen succulent
Mature size 1–4 ft. long, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Loamy, sandy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Late summer
Flower color Red, white, yellow
Hardiness zones 10, 11 (USDA)
Native area North America
Donkey's Tail Care
All things considered, donkey's tail succulents are pretty forgiving plants. Like most succulents, they do well if left slightly neglected—if you forget to water them once or twice, they'll still be just fine. Where you really have to treat your donkey's tail with care is while handling it. Its eye-catching beaded stems are actually extremely fragile and can break off with even the slightest touch. For that reason, it's best to choose a sunny spot to place or hang your donkey's tail succulent and then, quite literally, forget about it.
Light
As with many succulents, donkey's tail thrives best with lots of warm sunlight. If you're choosing to house your plant indoors, opt for a sunny windowsill that boasts several hours of daily light. If you're growing your succulent outdoors, place it in a pot or spot in your garden that gets plenty of morning sunlight but is partially shaded during the more aggressive afternoon hours to avoid scorching its beaded leaves. If you notice your plant turning grey or a very dull green (rather than its typical rich blue-green), that's probably a sign that it's getting too much harsh light. You may also notice a chalky white, waxy appearance on the beaded leaves of your donkey's tail succulent. Don't stress—it's a completely normal occurrence called epicuticular wax, which the plant produces to protect itself from too much harsh sun exposure.
Soil
In order for your donkey's tail succulent to grow successfully, it should be housed in well-draining, sandy soil. If you plan to plant your succulent in a container (either to keep outdoors or to live inside), opt for a gritty soil mixture suited specifically for cacti or succulents. If you're including it as part of a larger garden, be sure to choose a spot amongst other plants that prefer well-drained soil, as too much retained water will cause it to die (you can even consider mixing sand into your ground soil to aid in drainage). Additionally, donkey's tail thrives in soil with a neutral to acidic pH of around 6.0, but isn't too picky in this regard.
Water
When it comes to watering your donkey's tail succulent, less is more. Like many succulents, donkey's tail is drought resistant once established, so you'll want to water it more frequently during its spring and summer grow season, then taper off throughout the fall and winter months. Generally, opt for a single heavy watering each month if your plant is indoors, increasing to once every two or three weeks if you're housing your succulent outdoors. A good rule of thumb: The soil of your succulent should dry out completely in-between waterings. To aid in drainage, choose a pot with holes at its base; a terracotta or clay material can also help wick water from the soil. When it doubt, err on the side of less watering rather than more—donkey's tail holds moisture in its beaded leaves and can tolerate periods of drought but is not at all tolerant of over-watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Donkey's tail prefers warm weather, though it stands up better to cooler temperatures than some other succulents. On average, try to maintain an environment of 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit whether you keep your plant indoors or outdoors. It can survive when exposed to temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but only briefly, so be sure to bring it inside before the first frost or move it away from drafty windows in the winter months. When it comes to humidity, donkey's tail has no special needs. In fact, it prefers average levels of humidity and can rot if attempts are made to increase the humidity of its environment (so no need to mist its leaves or keep it somewhere more humid, like a bathroom).
Fertilizer
While fertilizing donkey's tail succulent isn't totally necessary to its successful growth, it also won't hurt and can be a great way to give the plant added nutrients. Focus on feeding your plant at the beginning of its grow season in spring, using a controlled release, balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer, which contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Mature succulents may prefer the fertilizer at one-quarter strength, while younger plants may prefer fertilizer with less nitrogen.
Propagating Donkey's Tail Succulents
Like most succulents, donkey's tail is easy to propagate through its leaves, which is good news, as they seem to fall off at the slightest touch. If you notice your plant has shed some of its beaded leaves recently, simply put them aside until the skin has scabbed over, about two to three days. From there, you can insert the leaves into a new pot filled with cacti or succulent soil mixture, leaving about half of each leaf exposed above the soil line. Water regularly (about once a week) until you see new growth start to emerge.
Repotting Donkey's Tail Succulents
Because of their fragile nature, great care should be taken to never repot a donkey's tail succulent unless absolutely necessary. Do so, and you risk losing many of your "tails" to jostling and replanting. However, if you must repot your succulent, you will find the most success in the warmer months. Make sure the soil is completely dry before beginning, then gently remove the succulent from its current vessel, knocking away any old soil from the roots of the plant. Place it in a new pot and backfill with soil, making sure to spread out the roots in the new, larger pot. Allow it to "rest" for a week or so before giving it its first watering in its new home.
Common Pests
The donkey's tail succulent is not particularly susceptible to pests, but if it does experience an infestation, it's likely to be from aphids. Though aphids can typically be hosed off a plant, that's not the best solution for donkey's tail succulents given their fragile nature. Instead, opt to mist them every few days with organic neem oil until the aphids disappear (typically around two to three weeks).
Botanical name Sedum morganianum
Common name Donkey's tail, burro's tail, lamb's tail
Plant type Evergreen succulent
Mature size 1–4 ft. long, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun exposure Full
Soil type Loamy, sandy
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom time Late summer
Flower color Red, white, yellow
Hardiness zones 10, 11 (USDA)
Native area North America
Donkey's Tail Care
All things considered, donkey's tail succulents are pretty forgiving plants. Like most succulents, they do well if left slightly neglected—if you forget to water them once or twice, they'll still be just fine. Where you really have to treat your donkey's tail with care is while handling it. Its eye-catching beaded stems are actually extremely fragile and can break off with even the slightest touch. For that reason, it's best to choose a sunny spot to place or hang your donkey's tail succulent and then, quite literally, forget about it.
Light
As with many succulents, donkey's tail thrives best with lots of warm sunlight. If you're choosing to house your plant indoors, opt for a sunny windowsill that boasts several hours of daily light. If you're growing your succulent outdoors, place it in a pot or spot in your garden that gets plenty of morning sunlight but is partially shaded during the more aggressive afternoon hours to avoid scorching its beaded leaves. If you notice your plant turning grey or a very dull green (rather than its typical rich blue-green), that's probably a sign that it's getting too much harsh light. You may also notice a chalky white, waxy appearance on the beaded leaves of your donkey's tail succulent. Don't stress—it's a completely normal occurrence called epicuticular wax, which the plant produces to protect itself from too much harsh sun exposure.
Soil
In order for your donkey's tail succulent to grow successfully, it should be housed in well-draining, sandy soil. If you plan to plant your succulent in a container (either to keep outdoors or to live inside), opt for a gritty soil mixture suited specifically for cacti or succulents. If you're including it as part of a larger garden, be sure to choose a spot amongst other plants that prefer well-drained soil, as too much retained water will cause it to die (you can even consider mixing sand into your ground soil to aid in drainage). Additionally, donkey's tail thrives in soil with a neutral to acidic pH of around 6.0, but isn't too picky in this regard.
Water
When it comes to watering your donkey's tail succulent, less is more. Like many succulents, donkey's tail is drought resistant once established, so you'll want to water it more frequently during its spring and summer grow season, then taper off throughout the fall and winter months. Generally, opt for a single heavy watering each month if your plant is indoors, increasing to once every two or three weeks if you're housing your succulent outdoors. A good rule of thumb: The soil of your succulent should dry out completely in-between waterings. To aid in drainage, choose a pot with holes at its base; a terracotta or clay material can also help wick water from the soil. When it doubt, err on the side of less watering rather than more—donkey's tail holds moisture in its beaded leaves and can tolerate periods of drought but is not at all tolerant of over-watering.
Temperature and Humidity
Donkey's tail prefers warm weather, though it stands up better to cooler temperatures than some other succulents. On average, try to maintain an environment of 65 degrees Fahrenheit to 75 degrees Fahrenheit whether you keep your plant indoors or outdoors. It can survive when exposed to temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but only briefly, so be sure to bring it inside before the first frost or move it away from drafty windows in the winter months. When it comes to humidity, donkey's tail has no special needs. In fact, it prefers average levels of humidity and can rot if attempts are made to increase the humidity of its environment (so no need to mist its leaves or keep it somewhere more humid, like a bathroom).
Fertilizer
While fertilizing donkey's tail succulent isn't totally necessary to its successful growth, it also won't hurt and can be a great way to give the plant added nutrients. Focus on feeding your plant at the beginning of its grow season in spring, using a controlled release, balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer, which contains equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Mature succulents may prefer the fertilizer at one-quarter strength, while younger plants may prefer fertilizer with less nitrogen.
Propagating Donkey's Tail Succulents
Like most succulents, donkey's tail is easy to propagate through its leaves, which is good news, as they seem to fall off at the slightest touch. If you notice your plant has shed some of its beaded leaves recently, simply put them aside until the skin has scabbed over, about two to three days. From there, you can insert the leaves into a new pot filled with cacti or succulent soil mixture, leaving about half of each leaf exposed above the soil line. Water regularly (about once a week) until you see new growth start to emerge.
Repotting Donkey's Tail Succulents
Because of their fragile nature, great care should be taken to never repot a donkey's tail succulent unless absolutely necessary. Do so, and you risk losing many of your "tails" to jostling and replanting. However, if you must repot your succulent, you will find the most success in the warmer months. Make sure the soil is completely dry before beginning, then gently remove the succulent from its current vessel, knocking away any old soil from the roots of the plant. Place it in a new pot and backfill with soil, making sure to spread out the roots in the new, larger pot. Allow it to "rest" for a week or so before giving it its first watering in its new home.
Common Pests
The donkey's tail succulent is not particularly susceptible to pests, but if it does experience an infestation, it's likely to be from aphids. Though aphids can typically be hosed off a plant, that's not the best solution for donkey's tail succulents given their fragile nature. Instead, opt to mist them every few days with organic neem oil until the aphids disappear (typically around two to three weeks).
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年10月27日
Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is an easy-to-grow, short-lived perennial with richly colored, daisy-like flowers. The plant forms a slowly spreading mound and the common name may be a reference to how they can slowly spread and "blanket" an area. The plants grow to about 24 inches in height with about a 20-inch spread. Blanket flowers are fast-growers and will bloom in their first year. This garden favorite puts out large showy blossoms in shades of reds and yellows throughout the warm season months.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
FEATURED VIDEO
7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
These short-lived perennials are usually planted from nursery starts, but they also grow easily from seeds planted directly in the garden after the last frost date (or started indoors about 4 to 6 weeks early). Take note that blanket flower is slightly toxic to humans.1
FEATURED VIDEO
7 Tips for Every Gardener
Common Names Gallardia, blanket flower
Botanical Name Gaillardia x Grandiflora
Family Asteraceae
Plant Type Herbaceous perennial
Mature Size 12 to 18 in. tall; 12- to 24-in. spread
Sun Exposure Full sun
Soil Type Any well-draining soil (avoid clay soil)
Soil pH 6.1 to 6.5 (slightly acidic)
Bloom Time Repeat bloomer, summer through fall
Flower Color Various shades of red, yellow, orange, or peach
Hardiness Zones 3-10 (USDA); varies by variety
Native Area Cultivated hybrid; parents are native North American wildflowers
Toxicity Slightly toxic to humans
Blanket Flower Care
Gaillardia X Grandiflora is fully hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Due to extensive hybridizing you will likely be able to find a variety to fit your zone and climate conditions. The flower can reseed and easily sprawl through your garden. Since the original plants are hybrids, expect some variation from self-seeding.
Gaillardias are such long bloomers that they work equally well in borders and containers. Blanket flowers do well with other heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun. The bold, daisy-like flowers blend especially well with soft textures, like thread-leaf Coreopsis and cosmos, as well as airy ornamental grasses. For more contrast, plant them with spiky plants like Kniphofia, Crocosmia, or daylilies. 'Burgundy' contrasts well with blue flowers, like Salvia and veronica. All the Gaillardia varieties make excellent cut flowers.
Light
These plants thrive best in full sun. The blanket flower can handle some partial shade, particularly in hot climates, but they will get a bit floppy and will not flower as profusely.
Soil
Gaillardia is not particular about soil pH, but it does need well-draining soil. It will grow in somewhat moist conditions, but heavy clay soil will probably kill it.
Water
Immediately after planting, water frequently (every other day or so) until you see the flowers. Once established, Gaillardia is extremely drought tolerant. It can go without watering unless there are extremely hot and dry conditions, then it's best to water the bed once or twice per week. Avoid overwatering.
Temperature and Humidity
Blanket flowers thrive in full sun and can withstand hot summer temperatures. They do not require a humid environment and do better in hot, dry climates over cool, moist ones. In cooler climates, protect your overwintering blanket flowers with a thick layer of mulch.
Fertilizer
Poor soils seem to encourage more flowering than rich soils, so go easy on (or avoid) the fertilizer.
Types of Blanket Flower
There are over two dozen species in the Gaillardia genus and most are native to some areas of North America. Gaillardia pulchella, which is native from the southeastern U.S. through to Colorado and south into Mexico, was cross-bred with Gaillardia aristata, a prairie flower, to create Gaillardia X Grandiflora, which is the most common garden form.
Here are other popular types:
Gaillardia 'Arizona Sun': A 2005 All-America Selections Winner, these 3- to 4- inch flowers have a red center surrounded by yellow.
G. 'Burgundy': These flowers feature wine-red petals with a yellow center disk that ages to burgundy.
G. 'Fanfare': This variety produces trumpet-shaped flowers that shade from soft red through yellow radiate from a rosy center disk.
G. 'Goblin': This is a very hardy variety with large green leaves that are veined in maroon.
G. 'Mesa Yellow': The 2010 All-America Selections Winner is known for its striking yellow flowers.
Pruning
Blanket flower does not require deadheading to keep blooming, but the plants will look better and be fuller if you do cut the stems back when the flowers start to fade. You will also get more continuous flowering with deadheading, so don't be shy about it. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but it may stimulate additional blooms. If the plant languishes in the heat of summer, cutting it back dramatically may reinvigorate it for good fall blooming.
Propagating Blanket Flowers
There are seeds for many Gaillardia x Grandiflora varieties. You can sow them in the spring, but they may not flower the first year. Get a head start by sowing in late summer and protecting the young plants over the winter. Since the plants can be short-lived and they don't grow true from seed, it is best to divide the plants every two to three years in the spring to try to keep them going. Follow these steps to divide blanket flowers:
Use a spade to dig a circle about 6 inches to 8 inches around the mound of blanket flowers that need dividing. Dig down about a foot to release the root ball.
Lift the root ball from the soil using the spade. Shake the root ball slightly to remove some of the dirt to expose the roots.
Gently tease roots apart with your fingers and divide into two or three clumps. Each clump should include a few shoots of foliage.
Replant divisions in a prepared area that will allow the roots to spread.
Once roots are covered with soil, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy, until you see the plant is no longer stressed, and then cut back on watering as you would with established blanket flowers.
Common Pests & Plant Diseases
Blanket flower plants are usually problem-free, but they are susceptible to aster yellows, a virus-like disease that can stunt their growth and cause the flowers to be green.2 Plants that do contract aster yellows should be destroyed. They will not recover and the disease can continue to spread.
Aster yellows are spread by leaf-hoppers and aphids, so the best thing to do is to encourage predators, like ladybugs.3 Hopefully, you will have enough natural predators around to keep them in check. Otherwise, spray with insecticidal soap which helps ward off the pests.
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