文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月16日
The humble potato, Solanum tuberosum, is native to North America but grown the world over as a nutritious staple food and delicious dinner vegetable fried, baked, mashed or roasted. Potatoes are easy to grow in the home garden and available in hundreds of different varieties. Once planted, potatoes emerge from the soil quickly, depending on temperature, planting conditions and the variety you are growing.
Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.
Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.
Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
Soil Temperature
Seed potatoes planted in garden soil at the recommended depth of about 4 inches should emerge from the soil in two to four weeks, according to Cornell University. However, if soil temperature is too cold or the ground is too wet or too dry, seed potato pieces are likely to rot in the ground and not sprout, or take considerably longer to emerge from the soil. As long as the ground has warmed, sprouting potatoes that may be killed back by late-spring frosts will emerge again and grow successfully through the summer season. Hill up soil around emerging potato plants; this practice will compel them to grow longer root systems that will produce more potatoes.
Curing Seed Potatoes
Small seed potatoes can be planted whole, while ones larger than a small egg should be cut into pieces, with each piece containing one or more eyes from which the growth will sprout. Curing the cut seed potato pieces before planting them will help to ensure better germination rates and faster emergence, according to Cornell University, although this is a point of disagreement among experts, with the Ohio State University Extension recommending planting immediately after seed potatoes are cut. To follow Cornell's recommended curing process, put cut seed potato pieces in a brown paper bag and store at room temperature for four to six days, shaking occasionally to prevent pieces from sticking together, then plant in a prepared trench in garden soil.
Sprouted Potatoes
You can speed up the potato emergence process by pre-sprouting your potatoes, advises the University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Science. Start with small, whole seed potatoes, and lay them out in a single layer in a room that receives sun and keeps a temperature consistently over 60 degrees. The potatoes will develop small green sprouts that, in large quantities, may be toxic, so don't eat your greened potatoes. Plant the sprouted potatoes about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts pointed upwards, and the potato plants will emerge from the soil faster than unsprouted plantings. Don't plant sprouted potatoes too deeply or you will delay their emergence.
Straw Potatoes
Market gardeners looking for perfectly-shaped potato tubers, and gardeners looking to submit prize-winning large potatoes at county fair competitions, often use a method called straw potato growing. Plant by placing seed potatoes at the surface of loosened, cultivated soil, then covering with 6 inches of loose straw. The potato plants will emerge through the straw, usually in just 2 to 3 weeks, because they do not have several inches of soil to grow through. Add more straw around the plants as they grow and as the earlier straw layers compact. Harvest at the end of the season by pulling back the straw, which eliminates the risk of slicing tubers when digging them out with a shovel.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年04月12日
Jalapenos are easy-to-grow pepper plants that produce abundantly if you live in an area with plenty of sunshine. The amount of time jalapenos produce in the garden depends on the length of your growing season. They begin bearing ripe fruit two to three months after being transplanted and continue to ripen fruit until frost.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
About Jalapenos
Like all peppers, jalapenos are warm-weather crops and shouldn't be transplanted outside until both air and soil temperatures have warmed in the spring. Wait until night temperatures remain above 50 degrees Fahrenheit or you risk cold damage to the plants. Transplants will begin to bear ripe fruit in 70 to 85 days, depending on cultivar. Most gardeners start pepper plants indoors six to eight weeks before the anticipated set-out date, since jalapenos started from seed outdoors won't have harvestable fruit for about four months.
Temperature Requirements for Fruit Set
Jalapenos have a narrow temperature range during which they'll set fruit. Night temperatures must be above 60 F and below 75 F for successful fruit set; outside of that range the blossoms will fall off and fruit won't form. In addition, daytime temperatures above 90 F inhibits fruit formation, but fruiting will recommence once temperatures drop back below 90.
In the Fall
Jalapenos continue to ripen already-formed fruit throughout the fall, even if night temperatures are too cool for continued fruit set. However, the plants will die once subjected to frost. If frost is forecast for your area, either pull the entire plant and hang it in a warm, sheltered spot to allow the remaining fruit to ripen, or harvest all remaining fruit, regardless of size. Even small, immature jalapenos are tasty.
Identifying Ripe Jalapenos
Ripe jalapenos don't look very different than unripe ones, making it hard to tell when to pick them. The skin on ripe jalapenos should be dark green, smooth and shiny. Small cracks or lines that form on the shoulder of the fruit near the stem is an indication that the fruit is ripe. Darkened areas are also a sign that the fruit is ripe and is about to turn color. You can let jalapenos turn red on the vine, but their texture is softer and they won't keep as long as green ones. Red jalapenos are no hotter than ripe green fruit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月24日
Many vegetables make good home crops, and the cucumber plant (Cucumis sativus) is one of the best. Usually quite productive and easy to grow, a failing cucumber plant can leave you wondering if your green thumb has turned brown. Sometimes, however, cucumbers develop but fail to turn green or start out green only to become orange or yellow. Yellowing cucumbers might signal a problem but they are sometimes a natural occurrence. Knowing the difference is the first step, followed by making some changes to prevent abnormal yellowing.
Baby I Was Born This Way
Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow.
Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them.
Food and Water
Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop.
Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden.
Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed.
Other Cucumber Crises
While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat.
Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil.
If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
Baby I Was Born This Way
Although most cucumbers are dark green, yellow varieties do exist. The "Lemon" cultivar is a good example. Like all cucumbers, it grows as an annual in all parts of the United States. It differs from other cucumber varieties in that it produces ball-shaped, 4-inch wide cucumbers in bright yellow. Whether you start cucumber plants from seed or purchase seedlings at a nursery, check the label and know what you're growing. It's possible your cucumbers were always destined to turn yellow.
Cucumbers left on the vine too long will also turn yellow and orange as they start to fade. They may also become overly large. While you certainly won't enjoy eating these bitter vegetables, leaving them on the vine slows or stops the production of new cucumbers. It's best to remove and discard them.
Food and Water
Improper watering and fertilizing can both result in yellow cucumbers. Cukes have shallow roots that crave moisture, but leaving them with wet feet can make them turn yellow. Cucumber plants do best when watered once weekly during dry spells, or whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. A particularly rainy growing season may lead to a disappointing crop.
Adequate nutrition also helps ensure healthy green cucumbers. A lack of nutrients can cause yellowing of both the leaves and cucumbers, which may stay small rather than reaching their full size. To prevent this, mix 1 cup of a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer into each 10-foot row at planting time. When the young vines reach 1 foot in length, mix 1 tablespoon of fertilizer into the soil beside each plant.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Mosaics are often attractive works of art, but this is not so when it comes the cucumber mosaic virus. This disease is incurable and caused by an organism that creates a yellow, mottles appearance on the cucumber plant's leaves. It also causes small, stunted cucumbers with yellow or white mottling. Remove and destroy any plants that show signs of this virus and keep a close eye on any remaining cucumbers in your garden.
Aphids and cucumber beetles spread the cucumber mosaic virus, so controlling them is important. Early in the season, cover the plants with floating row covers. You'll need to remove the covers by early summer to allow pollination, but they will offer young plants protection early in the growing season. For pest control after you uncover the plants, spray them with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water. Spray on a still, windless day and repeat every two weeks as needed.
Other Cucumber Crises
While the cucumber mosaic virus is the biggie, several other issues can cause yellow, wilted plant leaves and small cucumbers with an orange or yellow color. These include bacterial wilt and fungal problems. Striped cucumber beetles spread bacterial wilt and are best controlled with the same floating row covers used to discourage aphids. Later in the season, handpick the beetles off the plants when you see them. This is a much safer alternative than pesticides since you'll want to know your cucumbers are chemical-free and safe to eat.
Fungal disorders are best controlled by keeping air flowing through your crop. Space your plants 8 to 15 inches apart and avoiding wetting the foliage when watering. Growing plants on trellises also improves air circulation while keeping cucumbers up and off of moist soil.
If you do experience disease problems, choose disease-resistant varieties next year and try again, "Marketmore 76" and "Fanfare" are two excellent options. Rotate your planting location every two years, as well. Cucumber beetles can overwinter in your garden soil and easily find (and infect) your cucumbers again if you plant them in the same location.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Enjoy nutrient-dense, warm season banana peppers on garden salads or fry them up and make crispy side dishes. These peppers have a mild, non-spicy, sweet taste, making them a favored addition to all sorts of recipes. It's easy to grow banana peppers in your own garden with a few simple steps and soil preparation techniques.
Nutrition Facts
Banana peppers are nutritious. These sweet peppers contain calcium, fiber, potassium, folate, vitamins A and C and protein. Vitamin C helps the body make collagen, and it aids in the repair and growth of all tissues within the body, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Banana peppers have no fat and a low calorie content, making this food a smart choice for dieters.
Characteristics
Banana peppers are light green, orange or yellow in color and have an oblong shape with pointed tips. The raw peppers have a smooth texture and thick skin with seeds and lobes on the inside. The skin feels slightly supple because of water inside, but the peppers can quickly dry out when cooked. Banana peppers are 4 or more inches long and widest at the top portion of the pepper, near the stem. Some of these peppers have a straight appearance while others have a slight curve on the end.
Origin
While the banana pepper has a sweet taste, its chili pepper cousins have a much spicier flavor and very different characteristics. All of these peppers originated in the Americas, but banana peppers and other peppers in the chili pepper family have spread across the entire world.
Growing Banana Peppers
Prepare the soil before planting banana peppers. These peppers thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil and full sunshine. Till the ground 10 or more inches deep with a garden tiller and add 4 or more inches of compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and space pepper seeds and transplants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows or 14 inches apart in raised beds. Plant transplants 3 inches deep to fully cover the roots. Banana peppers take up to 70 days to fully mature in the ground.
Nutrition Facts
Banana peppers are nutritious. These sweet peppers contain calcium, fiber, potassium, folate, vitamins A and C and protein. Vitamin C helps the body make collagen, and it aids in the repair and growth of all tissues within the body, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Banana peppers have no fat and a low calorie content, making this food a smart choice for dieters.
Characteristics
Banana peppers are light green, orange or yellow in color and have an oblong shape with pointed tips. The raw peppers have a smooth texture and thick skin with seeds and lobes on the inside. The skin feels slightly supple because of water inside, but the peppers can quickly dry out when cooked. Banana peppers are 4 or more inches long and widest at the top portion of the pepper, near the stem. Some of these peppers have a straight appearance while others have a slight curve on the end.
Origin
While the banana pepper has a sweet taste, its chili pepper cousins have a much spicier flavor and very different characteristics. All of these peppers originated in the Americas, but banana peppers and other peppers in the chili pepper family have spread across the entire world.
Growing Banana Peppers
Prepare the soil before planting banana peppers. These peppers thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil and full sunshine. Till the ground 10 or more inches deep with a garden tiller and add 4 or more inches of compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and space pepper seeds and transplants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows or 14 inches apart in raised beds. Plant transplants 3 inches deep to fully cover the roots. Banana peppers take up to 70 days to fully mature in the ground.
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Aki
2018年01月13日
Those small leaves are so easy to fall off from the mother plant..... try to propergate them all next to the offset plant
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Gladiolus is an easy-to-grow flower noted for its tall flower spikes. The gladiolus or gladiola typically is grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 7 through 10. Called the sword lily for its upright, flower-studded stalk, the gladiolus is a fair weather plant. The flower bulbs, also called corms, are not winter-hardy. The flowers bloom from mid-summer through the first frost.
Features
The gladiolus blooms on tall stems with narrow, blade-shaped leaves. Because glads mature in a season, you can plant corms in spring and enjoy flowers by mid-summer, when a series of trumpet-shaped florets opens along the stem. Plant the corms in well-drained, organic soil with moderate moisture. Encourage prolific blooms by planting gladioli away from shrubs or other tall flowers. The plants produce strong stems and healthier flowers with open exposure to sunlight. When the plants die back in late autumn, corms remain in the ground in temperate climates and put out new foliage and flowers in spring. Dig up corms in cold zones and store in a well-ventilated, protected area at 35 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit until spring.
Types
Glads range from miniatures, growing under 3 feet tall with 2-1/2-inch flowers, to giants, growing 4 to 6 feet tall with 5-inch blooms. Glads flower in almost every color shade from white through dark purple. Some cultivars yield bi-color flowers, such as white with brown centers. Other hybrids offer green flowers that blend with the tall leaves. Miniatures fit well as cut flowers in small bouquets. Glads make spectacular vase arrangements with or without other cut flowers.
Staking
Keep flowers upright by staking gladioli. In wind or rain, glads may topple, uprooting the bulbs. Flower weight makes some glad stems bend or break. Protect stems by staking each individually or staking a row of glads. Stake individual flowers by tapping a 1-inch square wood support into the ground and tying each stem to its stake. Support a row of glads by tapping in 2-inch square posts and weaving twine between the posts. Tie the glads to the twine network. Some gardeners plant rows of glads in front of lattice so that tipsy glads are easily anchored to the decorative lattice grid.
Considerations
Select cultivars that bloom at different times for an ever-changing summer display. By planting corms in succession every two weeks from spring through early summer, the glads bloom continuously into autumn. For variety, choose a different color or height for each planting.
Features
The gladiolus blooms on tall stems with narrow, blade-shaped leaves. Because glads mature in a season, you can plant corms in spring and enjoy flowers by mid-summer, when a series of trumpet-shaped florets opens along the stem. Plant the corms in well-drained, organic soil with moderate moisture. Encourage prolific blooms by planting gladioli away from shrubs or other tall flowers. The plants produce strong stems and healthier flowers with open exposure to sunlight. When the plants die back in late autumn, corms remain in the ground in temperate climates and put out new foliage and flowers in spring. Dig up corms in cold zones and store in a well-ventilated, protected area at 35 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit until spring.
Types
Glads range from miniatures, growing under 3 feet tall with 2-1/2-inch flowers, to giants, growing 4 to 6 feet tall with 5-inch blooms. Glads flower in almost every color shade from white through dark purple. Some cultivars yield bi-color flowers, such as white with brown centers. Other hybrids offer green flowers that blend with the tall leaves. Miniatures fit well as cut flowers in small bouquets. Glads make spectacular vase arrangements with or without other cut flowers.
Staking
Keep flowers upright by staking gladioli. In wind or rain, glads may topple, uprooting the bulbs. Flower weight makes some glad stems bend or break. Protect stems by staking each individually or staking a row of glads. Stake individual flowers by tapping a 1-inch square wood support into the ground and tying each stem to its stake. Support a row of glads by tapping in 2-inch square posts and weaving twine between the posts. Tie the glads to the twine network. Some gardeners plant rows of glads in front of lattice so that tipsy glads are easily anchored to the decorative lattice grid.
Considerations
Select cultivars that bloom at different times for an ever-changing summer display. By planting corms in succession every two weeks from spring through early summer, the glads bloom continuously into autumn. For variety, choose a different color or height for each planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年12月04日
Many people are under the impression that the only easy way to grow mushrooms is with a kit, but this is not true. All a kit really provides is sterile substrate, usually a log, and mushroom spawn. Many garden supply stores and nurseries supply mushroom spawn, and you can collect and sterilize your own substrate. Growing mushrooms without a kit may be a bit more time-consuming, but the end result is worth the extra effort.
Step 1
Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil over high heat on your stove. Place the wheat straw into the pot and push it below the water, using a large spoon or spatula. Bring the water back to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cover the pot.
Step 2
Allow the straw to simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pot and burning. Remove a few pieces of straw and allow them to cool so you can check how tender they are. They should be a fairly soft consistency, not unlike well-cooked pasta. If the straw is still hard, continue simmering until it reaches the desired consistency.
Step 3
Place the colander in your sink and pour the straw and water into it to drain the straw. Allow the straw to cool to room temperature. While the straw is cooling, roll out a 1- to 2-foot length of plastic wrap on your table.
Step 4
Spread an even layer of straw over the plastic wrap once it reaches room temperature. Sprinkle the mushroom spawn over the prepared straw and press the entire thing together to form a tightly rolled log. Wrap the plastic wrap around the log.
Step 5
Place the wrapped log of straw in a warm, dark place. Make three to five slits across the top of the log. Do not water the log until you see a white substance form on the straw. Once this appears, water sparingly every other day or as necessary to keep the straw moist. Depending on the species you're growing, you should have mushrooms in one to two months.
Step 1
Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil over high heat on your stove. Place the wheat straw into the pot and push it below the water, using a large spoon or spatula. Bring the water back to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cover the pot.
Step 2
Allow the straw to simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pot and burning. Remove a few pieces of straw and allow them to cool so you can check how tender they are. They should be a fairly soft consistency, not unlike well-cooked pasta. If the straw is still hard, continue simmering until it reaches the desired consistency.
Step 3
Place the colander in your sink and pour the straw and water into it to drain the straw. Allow the straw to cool to room temperature. While the straw is cooling, roll out a 1- to 2-foot length of plastic wrap on your table.
Step 4
Spread an even layer of straw over the plastic wrap once it reaches room temperature. Sprinkle the mushroom spawn over the prepared straw and press the entire thing together to form a tightly rolled log. Wrap the plastic wrap around the log.
Step 5
Place the wrapped log of straw in a warm, dark place. Make three to five slits across the top of the log. Do not water the log until you see a white substance form on the straw. Once this appears, water sparingly every other day or as necessary to keep the straw moist. Depending on the species you're growing, you should have mushrooms in one to two months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月23日
The juicy, lush flavor and rampant, easy-care growth makes tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) a garden favorite. While humans enjoy the sweet, tart flavor of the fruits, caterpillars are also attracted to the tomato plants, requiring quick action to remove the hungry invaders. Although the tomato plants will keep producing fruits, reducing the number of caterpillars on the plants will increase the harvest. Removal methods range from hand-picking to spraying insecticides.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
About Tomato Plants
Although tomatoes are grown as annuals, the South American natives are tender perennials, hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. The mature fruits range from grape to softball size and may be green, yellow, orange, red or purple. The plants are sprawling and bushy with vine-like branches. They require full sun and at least 1 inch of water per week -- and more in hot weather.
The Caterpillars
Several different types of caterpillars infest tomato plants and their fruits. You can identify the pest by its appearance and the damage it causes.
The tomato hornworm (Manduca quinquemaculata) is a large, green and white striped, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a "horn" on its tail. It has a segmented appearance accentuated by the stripes. A hornworm can defoliate entire branches overnight. Tomato hornworms grow up to 3 1/2 inches long.
The alfalfa looper (Autographa californica) and cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) also feed on the foliage of a variety of plants, including tomatoes. Loopers are smooth green caterpillars that crawl by bringing their back legs forward, arching their backs, similar to an inchworm. They grow up to 1 1/2 inches long.
The tomato fruitworm (Helicoverpa zea) and tobacco budworm (Heliothis virescens) are similar in appearance, with young caterpillars ranging from cream to yellow and darkening to yellow-green or brown-red as they mature. Older caterpillars have tiny, thorn-like spines and grow up to 1 inch long. Both caterpillars attack and chew on the buds, blossoms and developing tomatoes. They enter the fruit by chewing a hole in the skin and then eat the inside of the tomato.
Variegated cutworms (Peridroma saucia) and black cutworms (Agrotis ipsilon) are among the cutworm species that attack new seedlings and tomato fruits. At night, the cutworm emerges from hiding in the dirt or plant debris and chews the tender stem of the seedling. It may also chew on the fruits, especially if the tomatoes are touching the ground. Cutworms are 1 to 2 inches long and smooth skinned. They curl up when touched.
Non-Insecticide Controls
Hand pick the caterpillars. Large caterpillars, such as the tomato hornworm, are easily hand picked from the tomato plant. Put on gloves if you're squeamish about touching caterpillars. Look at the plant and let your eyes follow the branch down the ragged stubs of the devoured leaves and eventually you'll see the fat green caterpillar amid the stems and leaves. Pluck it from the tomato plant and drop it into a bucket of soapy water.
Make cardboard collars to protect the tomato stems from cutworms. A simple 2 1/2-inch tall and 8-inch long cardboard collar formed into a circle and then pressed 1 inch into the soil surrounding the plant prevents the cutworm from encircling the stem and chewing it off. Alternately, cut off the bottom of a paper or plastic cup and insert the top portion of the cup into the soil to protect the tender stem.
Cultivate the soil after the harvest. By removing dead and dying vegetation and tilling the garden after the harvest, you can destroy many of the larvae and the pupae before winter. Fewer emerging moths in spring means fewer caterpillars to munch on your tomatoes next season.
Less Toxic Insecticides
In the home garden, targeting caterpillars with less toxic insecticides allows beneficial insects, such as bees, to continue to pollinate the other fruits and vegetables. In addition, using less toxic options means you can treat your tomatoes up to the day of harvest. Before mixing and applying any insecticides, put on gloves, safety goggles and a breathing mask to avoid contact with the insecticide. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacterium, is toxic to many caterpillar species, including hornworms, fruitworms, budworms and loopers. Mix a Bt concentrate at a rate of 1 to 3 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for hornworms and 2 to 4 teaspoons into 1 gallon of water for other caterpillars. Spray the tomato's leaves until they are covered with the solution. Repeat weekly or as needed to control caterpillars.
Ready-to-use neem oil products may be used on a seven- to 14-day schedule. Apply the solution in the early morning or late evening to avoid burning the tomato plant. Shake the spray bottle well and spray the tomato plant until the leaves are soaked by the solution.
Spinosaid concentrate is mixed at 4 tablespoons per gallon of water and applied until the tomato plant is soaking wet. It kills infestations of loopers and other caterpillars. It may be reapplied four days apart and up to six times per year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
If you're interested in growing herbs, consider adding rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) to your list. Its delicate foliage is an attractive grayish-green and the plant fills the environment with its herbal aroma. Rosemary is generally easy to grow, but it might develop some problems if it's not given correct conditions or develops disease or pest problems. Catching these problems early can be essential to keep a rosemary plant in tip-top shape.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is generally easy to grow, but sometimes it can have problems. To track down the cause of yellowing leaves on a rosemary plant, check which leaves are yellow. If only some of the leaves are yellow, the problem may be different than if all are yellow. Also check if the leaves are completely yellow or if they have a speckled appearance, which may provide another clue. Proper care of your rosemary plant may be able to save it. If not, knowing what the problem was can help you to have a healthy plant next time.
Nutrient Deficiency
A lack of necessary nutrients can cause a rosemary plant to have yellow leaves. The most common cause of yellow leaves is a lack of iron. The problem may also be caused by insufficient nitrogen, zinc or manganese.
If the problem starts on young leaves and spreads to the old ones, it's likely an iron deficiency. If the first leaves to turn yellow are the oldest ones, it could be nitrogen, zinc or manganese that's missing.
What your rosemary plant most likely needs to correct nutrient deficiency is fertilizer. Add fertilizer every month or two while the plant is growing, but no more than one or two times during winter dormancy. Use a basic water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 with micronutrients and mix 1 teaspoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water.
If the soil pH is too high, iron may be present in the soil but your rosemary won't be able to use it. Check the soil pH with a test kit or pH probe. If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher it is too alkaline.
Other imbalances that can cause trouble with the uptake of iron include too much copper, phosphorous, zinc, calcium or manganese. Too little potassium in the plant and too little iron in the soil will also turn leaves yellow. Repot houseplants to resolve such problems. For outdoor rosemary, use a soil test kit and then follow the label's recommendations for the results you get.
Root Rot and Water Problems
While rosemary grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, you can also grow it as a houseplant. Root rot is the most common reason for a yellowing houseplant. If your plant has this condition you'll see stunted yellow leaves as well as overall stunted growth. Rosemary prefers dry soil, and too much water can trigger root rot.
Take a look at the roots by carefully removing the plant from its pot and exposing the roots. Plants with root rot will have at least some black roots and the roots will look slimy. Healthy roots are white and firm. If only a few roots have rot, you may be able to save the plant by increasing drainage and cutting back on watering. Allow the plant to dry out completely between waterings, and don't let it sit in a tray of water at any time.
Spider Mites
If spider mites are feeding on your rosemary, the leaves may be spotted with yellow. If you look closely you may also see webs where the leaves join the stems. Left untreated, these pests can kill your plant. Set your plant in the bathtub or take it outside and wash it down with a forceful spray of water to remove many of the spider mites. Repeat this each week until the problem is gone. Make sure your rosemary isn't getting too dry between waterings, which can increase the chances of spider mite problems.
Improper Lighting
Rosemary plants need full sun, about six to eight hours a day, and indoor plants require plenty of supplemental light. If your plant gets inadequate light it may struggle to survive. The lower leaves on the plant will turn yellow and drop off.
To prevent yellowing and other light-related problems, set your rosemary in a sunny south- or west-facing window where it gets enough sunlight. Supplement as needed with a grow light or standard fluorescent lighting. Place the fluorescent lights about 6 inches above the rosemary and leave them on about 14 hours a day. Use a timer to automate the light turning on and off.
Nutrient Deficiency
A lack of necessary nutrients can cause a rosemary plant to have yellow leaves. The most common cause of yellow leaves is a lack of iron. The problem may also be caused by insufficient nitrogen, zinc or manganese.
If the problem starts on young leaves and spreads to the old ones, it's likely an iron deficiency. If the first leaves to turn yellow are the oldest ones, it could be nitrogen, zinc or manganese that's missing.
What your rosemary plant most likely needs to correct nutrient deficiency is fertilizer. Add fertilizer every month or two while the plant is growing, but no more than one or two times during winter dormancy. Use a basic water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 with micronutrients and mix 1 teaspoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water.
If the soil pH is too high, iron may be present in the soil but your rosemary won't be able to use it. Check the soil pH with a test kit or pH probe. If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher it is too alkaline.
Other imbalances that can cause trouble with the uptake of iron include too much copper, phosphorous, zinc, calcium or manganese. Too little potassium in the plant and too little iron in the soil will also turn leaves yellow. Repot houseplants to resolve such problems. For outdoor rosemary, use a soil test kit and then follow the label's recommendations for the results you get.
Root Rot and Water Problems
While rosemary grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, you can also grow it as a houseplant. Root rot is the most common reason for a yellowing houseplant. If your plant has this condition you'll see stunted yellow leaves as well as overall stunted growth. Rosemary prefers dry soil, and too much water can trigger root rot.
Take a look at the roots by carefully removing the plant from its pot and exposing the roots. Plants with root rot will have at least some black roots and the roots will look slimy. Healthy roots are white and firm. If only a few roots have rot, you may be able to save the plant by increasing drainage and cutting back on watering. Allow the plant to dry out completely between waterings, and don't let it sit in a tray of water at any time.
Spider Mites
If spider mites are feeding on your rosemary, the leaves may be spotted with yellow. If you look closely you may also see webs where the leaves join the stems. Left untreated, these pests can kill your plant. Set your plant in the bathtub or take it outside and wash it down with a forceful spray of water to remove many of the spider mites. Repeat this each week until the problem is gone. Make sure your rosemary isn't getting too dry between waterings, which can increase the chances of spider mite problems.
Improper Lighting
Rosemary plants need full sun, about six to eight hours a day, and indoor plants require plenty of supplemental light. If your plant gets inadequate light it may struggle to survive. The lower leaves on the plant will turn yellow and drop off.
To prevent yellowing and other light-related problems, set your rosemary in a sunny south- or west-facing window where it gets enough sunlight. Supplement as needed with a grow light or standard fluorescent lighting. Place the fluorescent lights about 6 inches above the rosemary and leave them on about 14 hours a day. Use a timer to automate the light turning on and off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Although easy to grow as an annual in the United States, the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) is, unfortunately, vulnerable to a wide variety of diseases. Choosing disease-resistant varieties, spacing plants adequately and keeping garden soil free of debris will help to prevent many common problems. Knowing how to spot symptoms of bacterial or fungal infection will make disease identification and control easier.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
If you'd like to grow grape tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) but don't have space for a vegetable garden, don't be discouraged. Instead, grow a few plants in containers on a sunny porch or patio. It's relatively easy to enjoy a bountiful harvest from just a few potted plants, if you give them just a bit of special attention to keep the harvest coming.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
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XVII-Blackheart
2017年11月12日
Echeveria Elegans 'Mexican snowball'
After some long searching, which is really difficult! I finally found it's name. It's easy to confuse with a 'Green pearl'. I really love it! ❤️✨
After some long searching, which is really difficult! I finally found it's name. It's easy to confuse with a 'Green pearl'. I really love it! ❤️✨
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
When deciding a new plant to grow in Georgia, a blueberry bush is a GREAT choice. The are easy to maintain, don't have thorns and won't spread like crazy growing all over the place.
Recently, doctors have started saying that blueberries are among the top most beneficial fruits to feed your body. It's no wonder, considering they yield the highest antioxidant capacity of all fresh fruit, neutralize free radicals and aid in reducing belly fat. Not to mention they help promote urinary tract health, brain health, help to fight heart disease and help relieve constipation and digestion. Some doctors even suspect they are linked with reversing cancer!
If you live in Georgia, you are exceptionally lucky as you live in the perfect climate for growing blueberries. It's in the south so it makes growing them much easier as the summers are long and hot and there is usually very little cold. It's the perfect climate to grow blue berries, in Georgia!
So how do you do it? The following three simple steps will show you.
Step 1
Choose the right variety of blueberry bush! Get the rabbiteye blueberry bushes as they are best for the climate in the south. If you want to grow blueberries in Georgia, it is critical you choose the rabbiteye variety for the most success. There are three different varieties of blueberries, such as highbush, lowbush and rabbiteye. The highbush and lowbush are more geared toward climates other than the kind in Georgia, so you will want to steer away from them.
Rabbiteye blue berries require more heat which makes them perfect for growing in Georgia. Another reason you will want to plant rabbiteye blueberry bushes is because they tend to grow the biggest at a whopping 10 feet high! That means more blueberries for your money and more bang for your buck.
Where do you get rabbiteye blueberry bushes? Most local nurseries in Georgia carry them, but if you have any trouble finding them you can always order them online for fairly cheap.
When you buy them, try to get plants that 2 years old as it will drastically speed up the production of blueberries.
Step 2
Plant them correctly. They are self fertile, but for the best results plant them near two other varieties to create cross pollination.
For the best development possible of rabbiteye blueberries bushes, plant them in the absolute sunniest place possible and in a region where they won't be crippled by late spring frosts.
Make sure you plant them in an acidic soil of anywhere between 4.5 pH and 4.8 pH, as this is what they will need to grow and meet their full potential. Most soils aren't this acidic, naturally, so be sure to do a bit of soil testing to make sure you select the most acidic and fertile spot.
You can buy home soil test kits either at the nursery where you buy the plant. If you can't find them in your local nursery, feel free to order your soil test kit online as well. If the soil in the area has too high of a pH balance, be sure to acidify it with Mir-Acid. You can buy Mir-Acid at just about any nursery nationwide.
To make the soil more fertile for the growth of your blueberries, be sure to add compost to the soil.
Once you make sure the soil is both fertile and of the right acidity, begin to plant your blueberry bushes by spacing them approximately four feet away from each other.
Be sure to plant the blueberry bushes so that their bloom periods overlap. For example, you want to have one mid season and one getting ready to start it's bloom period. This will ensure you will have blue berries year round.
I recommended applying a wood chip mulch around your blueberry plant to discourage the growth of weeds.
Step 3
Maintain them correctly. There are quite a few important things you need to do to make sure that your blueberries production is maintained. One of these things is to test the pH balance of the soil annually to make sure that it hasn't changed. After your blueberry bushes have been in production for a few years, you will want to prune them to open the way for new growth.
You'll need a good strategy to keep the birds away, unless you don't mind having the birds raid your plants. If you don't want to share the blueberries with the birds, then you're going to want to cover the bushes with a net.
To determine when the berries are ripe and ready for eating, hold your hand beneath each clump and gently brush them with your fingers. Any berries that are ready to be eaten will easily fall into your hand. Enjoy!
Recently, doctors have started saying that blueberries are among the top most beneficial fruits to feed your body. It's no wonder, considering they yield the highest antioxidant capacity of all fresh fruit, neutralize free radicals and aid in reducing belly fat. Not to mention they help promote urinary tract health, brain health, help to fight heart disease and help relieve constipation and digestion. Some doctors even suspect they are linked with reversing cancer!
If you live in Georgia, you are exceptionally lucky as you live in the perfect climate for growing blueberries. It's in the south so it makes growing them much easier as the summers are long and hot and there is usually very little cold. It's the perfect climate to grow blue berries, in Georgia!
So how do you do it? The following three simple steps will show you.
Step 1
Choose the right variety of blueberry bush! Get the rabbiteye blueberry bushes as they are best for the climate in the south. If you want to grow blueberries in Georgia, it is critical you choose the rabbiteye variety for the most success. There are three different varieties of blueberries, such as highbush, lowbush and rabbiteye. The highbush and lowbush are more geared toward climates other than the kind in Georgia, so you will want to steer away from them.
Rabbiteye blue berries require more heat which makes them perfect for growing in Georgia. Another reason you will want to plant rabbiteye blueberry bushes is because they tend to grow the biggest at a whopping 10 feet high! That means more blueberries for your money and more bang for your buck.
Where do you get rabbiteye blueberry bushes? Most local nurseries in Georgia carry them, but if you have any trouble finding them you can always order them online for fairly cheap.
When you buy them, try to get plants that 2 years old as it will drastically speed up the production of blueberries.
Step 2
Plant them correctly. They are self fertile, but for the best results plant them near two other varieties to create cross pollination.
For the best development possible of rabbiteye blueberries bushes, plant them in the absolute sunniest place possible and in a region where they won't be crippled by late spring frosts.
Make sure you plant them in an acidic soil of anywhere between 4.5 pH and 4.8 pH, as this is what they will need to grow and meet their full potential. Most soils aren't this acidic, naturally, so be sure to do a bit of soil testing to make sure you select the most acidic and fertile spot.
You can buy home soil test kits either at the nursery where you buy the plant. If you can't find them in your local nursery, feel free to order your soil test kit online as well. If the soil in the area has too high of a pH balance, be sure to acidify it with Mir-Acid. You can buy Mir-Acid at just about any nursery nationwide.
To make the soil more fertile for the growth of your blueberries, be sure to add compost to the soil.
Once you make sure the soil is both fertile and of the right acidity, begin to plant your blueberry bushes by spacing them approximately four feet away from each other.
Be sure to plant the blueberry bushes so that their bloom periods overlap. For example, you want to have one mid season and one getting ready to start it's bloom period. This will ensure you will have blue berries year round.
I recommended applying a wood chip mulch around your blueberry plant to discourage the growth of weeds.
Step 3
Maintain them correctly. There are quite a few important things you need to do to make sure that your blueberries production is maintained. One of these things is to test the pH balance of the soil annually to make sure that it hasn't changed. After your blueberry bushes have been in production for a few years, you will want to prune them to open the way for new growth.
You'll need a good strategy to keep the birds away, unless you don't mind having the birds raid your plants. If you don't want to share the blueberries with the birds, then you're going to want to cover the bushes with a net.
To determine when the berries are ripe and ready for eating, hold your hand beneath each clump and gently brush them with your fingers. Any berries that are ready to be eaten will easily fall into your hand. Enjoy!
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