文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
When eating berries found in the wild, it's important to identify them. The fruit of some plants may be edible, but the leaves and stems poisonous. Grapes are easy to spot, and no part of the plant is poisonous to humans.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
Types
Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions.
Significance
Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact
Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Firm, tightly tied hay or straw bales make a quick and easy-to-use organic raised bed for growing strawberries. Gardening in bales allows you to transform rocky, uneven or clay soil — or even a paved parking spot — into fertile growing space. Though growing in a bale is most often recommended for annuals, it's possible to grow strawberries in them for two years, especially if you live in a more northern climate. Make sure your strawberry bed is near a water source, since you'll be watering often.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
Step 1
Place a layer of black plastic on the ground where you'd like your strawberry bed. Select a location in full sun. Place bales on top of the plastic, end to end tightly, in rows with the twines facing up. Straw bales work well because they have fewer seeds in them, which results in fewer weed problems, but Bermuda grass, fescue or rye grass hay are also suitable, according to the University of Mississippi Extension, as they also compost readily.
Step 2
Soak the bales with water beginning about 10 days before all danger of frost has passed in your area. Soaking may require as much as 15 gallons of water per bale. Water the bales daily for three days to keep them damp, thereby encouraging the decomposition process.
Step 3
Sprinkle half a cup of blood meal on each bale and water it in each day for days four through six, thereby encouraging composting microorganisms to warm the bales to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. This heating occurs even without the blood meal, but a bit of fertilizer accelerates the process.
Step 4
Sprinkle each bale with a quarter cup of blood meal and water it in during days seven through nine.
Step 5
Water the bales on the 10th day. Check the temperature of the bales on the 11th day. If they are no longer heating and all danger of frost has passed, then you may begin planting.
Step 6
Transplant your strawberries into the bales, four to six plants per bale. Use a trowel to create a crack in the hay or straw and insert each plant into the bale so the crown is even with the surface of the bale.
Step 7
Keep the bales moist, watering daily or as needed. As the bales continue to decompose, they hold more water and retain it for a longer period. If weeds or grasses begin to grow from the bales, simply trim them to keep them short.
Step 8
Remove all the blossoms from the strawberry plants for the first few months after planting in order to encourage the plants to build up a food reserve. Then in about July, leave the blossoms undisturbed and allow fruit to develop. Expect to harvest your first strawberries within a month.
Step 9
Apply a 3-inch layer of winter mulch on top of the strawberry plants after frost has stopped growth but before a heavy freeze. Wheat straw makes good mulch.
Step 10
Remove the mulch in the spring once the plants start poking through. Fertilize with about 2 oz. of urea per bale. Water as needed to keep the bales moist throughout the growing season.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are grown as annuals in most American vegetable gardens for eating and cooking. While they are relatively hardy and easy to grow, they are susceptible to four varieties of blight. A number of treatments can destroy and prevent blight. Prior to treatment, fruit showing signs of blight infection should not be eaten or used for canning.
Types of Blight
There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes:
Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions.
Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions.
Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation.
Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions.
Homemade Fungicide and Myths
If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture.
While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor.
Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues.
Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight.
Commercial Products
Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured.
Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled.
Repairing Soil and Prevention
A number of measures will prevent blight:
Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry
Space plants so they do not touch
Use only disease-free plants and seeds
Mulch under plants
Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area
Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest
Choose blight-resistant cultivars
Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds
Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store
Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants.
Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
Types of Blight
There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes:
Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions.
Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions.
Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation.
Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions.
Homemade Fungicide and Myths
If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture.
While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor.
Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues.
Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight.
Commercial Products
Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured.
Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled.
Repairing Soil and Prevention
A number of measures will prevent blight:
Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry
Space plants so they do not touch
Use only disease-free plants and seeds
Mulch under plants
Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area
Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest
Choose blight-resistant cultivars
Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds
Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store
Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants.
Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
The best fungicide for tomatoes, or any other kind of plant, is prevention. Fungicides can protect a plant if they are used before any kind of fungal infection begins. Once a fungus attacks a plant, eliminating it isn't easy. You can control its spread by continuing to spray uninfected parts of the plant, but there is little chance of stopping a fungus once it starts. Proper planting and care practices are your best weapons against tomato fungus.
Prevention
Plant tomatoes when the soil has warmed to 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the night air temperatures are in the 50s. Give the plants plenty of air circulation for when they reach their mature size; don't crowd them. Plant them in full sun in rich soil, and water only at the base of the plants, not from above with a hose or sprinkler. Wet foliage encourages fungal disease. Don't overfertilize tomatoes. A handful of tomato fertilizer and a handful of lime added to the hole when planting is all they need for the season. Plant tomatoes in a different spot every three years to prevent diseases from building up in the soil.
Septoria Blight
After the first fruits set on the plant, the lower leaves of the plant can become infected with white or gray spots with a black or brown margin. Pick off infected leaves, and discard them in the garbage. Spray the plant with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide labeled for use on vegetables or one containing Chlorothalonil. Septoria spreads quickly in wet weather, so be sure the plants are well spaced, and avoid working among them when they're wet. Clean up all refuse in the fall, so the fungus doesn't overwinter in the debris.
Early Blight
Dark brown or black spots can appear on the lower leaves of the plant after the plant has set plenty of fruit. Rings appear inside the spot, making it resemble a bull's eye. The fungus attacks the stems and fruit, too, producing black, sunken spots. Leaves yellow and drop off. Pick off infected leaves and fruit, and cut off affected stems, dipping your pruners in a one-part-bleach, nine-parts-water solution between each cut. At the first sign of trouble, begin spraying the plants with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide containing Clorothalonil or Mancozeb.
Late Blight
Late blight appears toward the end of the growing season when night temperatures begin to cool. Black, wet-looking spots start at the leaf edge and spread inward. Wet weather aids the spread of the fungus, and it affects the fruit, as well, with rough, dark brown patches. Remove infected plant parts, and spray with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide containing Chlorothalonil or Mancozeb.
Prevention
Plant tomatoes when the soil has warmed to 55 degrees Fahrenheit and the night air temperatures are in the 50s. Give the plants plenty of air circulation for when they reach their mature size; don't crowd them. Plant them in full sun in rich soil, and water only at the base of the plants, not from above with a hose or sprinkler. Wet foliage encourages fungal disease. Don't overfertilize tomatoes. A handful of tomato fertilizer and a handful of lime added to the hole when planting is all they need for the season. Plant tomatoes in a different spot every three years to prevent diseases from building up in the soil.
Septoria Blight
After the first fruits set on the plant, the lower leaves of the plant can become infected with white or gray spots with a black or brown margin. Pick off infected leaves, and discard them in the garbage. Spray the plant with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide labeled for use on vegetables or one containing Chlorothalonil. Septoria spreads quickly in wet weather, so be sure the plants are well spaced, and avoid working among them when they're wet. Clean up all refuse in the fall, so the fungus doesn't overwinter in the debris.
Early Blight
Dark brown or black spots can appear on the lower leaves of the plant after the plant has set plenty of fruit. Rings appear inside the spot, making it resemble a bull's eye. The fungus attacks the stems and fruit, too, producing black, sunken spots. Leaves yellow and drop off. Pick off infected leaves and fruit, and cut off affected stems, dipping your pruners in a one-part-bleach, nine-parts-water solution between each cut. At the first sign of trouble, begin spraying the plants with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide containing Clorothalonil or Mancozeb.
Late Blight
Late blight appears toward the end of the growing season when night temperatures begin to cool. Black, wet-looking spots start at the leaf edge and spread inward. Wet weather aids the spread of the fungus, and it affects the fruit, as well, with rough, dark brown patches. Remove infected plant parts, and spray with an organic fungicide containing copper or a synthetic fungicide containing Chlorothalonil or Mancozeb.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Low-maintenance plants are becoming more and more popular with time, mostly due to the busy life we are living. This is why succulents are one of the most wanted plants at the moment. They are not only easy to care for but are also suitable for growing in containers and are stylish and cool to look at. You can use them in border areas of flower beds, stone and wall beds.
We believe that this is just the start of the era of succulents – with the climate changes and busy lifestyle gardener will turn more and more to low-care, drought-tough plants. Knowing all of these facts, you are surely considering to add these little beauties to your home garden. Choose one of these 10 stylish succulents we are suggesting today as they are all low-maintenance, stylish and simply gorgeous.
1. Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphii)
Sedum adolphii or most commonly known as Golden Sedum will make a great addition to your garden. What makes this species special and one of the best to grow in your home or garden is the fact that they change color. They will turn brighter orange when exposed to sun which is why they are perfect to plant along blue and silver colored flowers. The star shaped flowers will add charm to any garden. Not to mention they are low maintenance and drought tolerant.
2. Hen and Chicks (Echeveria elegans)
Echeveria elegans or Hen and Chicks is a classic succulent that is most commonly present in almost every home and garden. They grow well indoors and out in both cool or hot temperatures. They got the name because of the rosette shape and their ability to produce plenty of “babies”. What makes them one of the most popular succulents is also their ability to thrive on any condition, which means that even poor soil and a tiny container is enough to grow them. They don’t need fertilizer and require very little water.
3. Aloe vera
Aloe vera, also known as Aloe barbadensis, can be grown both outside and inside. Just make sure you place them in full sun. As with any succulent, watering should be minimal during winter while in summer you should soak the soil then let it dry before watering it again. Because of its shallow roots we recommend choosing a wide pot instead of a deep one when replanting. Aloe vera plants are easily propagated. Just remove the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants when they are a couple inches tall.
4. Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)
Sedum morganianum or popularly called Burro’s Tail is a beautiful blue colored delicate succulent. When it blooms tiny little red flowers appear. All you need to know if you want to grow this beautiful succulent is that it needs gritty soil, good drainage, sunshine and protection from extreme cold temperatures. This means you can grow it both indoors and in your garden. Only downfall is its delicacy – the leaves will fall off at the slightest touch. Good thing is that you can use the fallen leaves to propagate new plants.
5. Zebra Plant (Haworthia attenuata)
You will easily fall in love with this beautiful succulent. Its beautifully patterned leaves with leathery surface, the small simple white flowers it produces, the fact that it is one of the easiest plants to grow – all these make Haworthia attenuata a favorite plant. This succulent has only two enemies – frost and excess water. If you live in a colder climate keep it inside at least during the winter.
6. Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’
Echeverias are among the most popular succulents and Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’ is surely the favorite among them. It looks like a ruffly underwater sea anemone forming loose, up to 8 inches (20 cm) rosette. You can grow this beautiful succulent even if you are a beginner gardener as it is tough and resilient. To keep your plant happy and healthy place it in full sun and provide good drainage.
7. Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
Crassula ovata or commonly known as Jade Plant or Jade Tree is one of the most popular succulents, especially as a house plant. Just like any other succulent they prefer strong light and a well-draining soil. They can tolerate low light and require very little watering. It is very easy to propagate them by simply rooting a cutting of the stem or leaves. Jade Plants’ leaves are rubbery to the touch and quite flexible. If grown in strong light they will get a beautiful red margin.
8. Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)
Kalanchoe is a succulent praised for its beautiful flowers and Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is the most popular and common species. It can have orange, pink, red, white, or red flowers and some varieties have double flowers. It blooms in winter which makes it even more wanted in every home garden. This attractive plant is low-maintenance like any other succulent and will thrive perfectly in full sun with very little water. Be aware that the frost will hurt it.
9. Queen Victoria Agave (Agave victoriae-reginae)
Agaves are native to the Americas. They are one of the most popular succulents due to their rosette shape, drought resistance and low maintenance in general. The blooming happens once as the plant will die afterwards. Agave victoriae-reginae is probably the favorite among Agave species. It grows to the size of a soccer ball over time.
10. Black Rose (Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’)
Aeoniums are popular succulents because their resemble big, fleshy-petalled daisies and of course they are easy to grow both on your home or in your garden. There are many hybrids and species out there but Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ is surely a show stopper with its magenta-black. In winter bright yellow flowers contrast with the dark foliage. For best results provide full sun and well-drained soil.
We believe that this is just the start of the era of succulents – with the climate changes and busy lifestyle gardener will turn more and more to low-care, drought-tough plants. Knowing all of these facts, you are surely considering to add these little beauties to your home garden. Choose one of these 10 stylish succulents we are suggesting today as they are all low-maintenance, stylish and simply gorgeous.
1. Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphii)
Sedum adolphii or most commonly known as Golden Sedum will make a great addition to your garden. What makes this species special and one of the best to grow in your home or garden is the fact that they change color. They will turn brighter orange when exposed to sun which is why they are perfect to plant along blue and silver colored flowers. The star shaped flowers will add charm to any garden. Not to mention they are low maintenance and drought tolerant.
2. Hen and Chicks (Echeveria elegans)
Echeveria elegans or Hen and Chicks is a classic succulent that is most commonly present in almost every home and garden. They grow well indoors and out in both cool or hot temperatures. They got the name because of the rosette shape and their ability to produce plenty of “babies”. What makes them one of the most popular succulents is also their ability to thrive on any condition, which means that even poor soil and a tiny container is enough to grow them. They don’t need fertilizer and require very little water.
3. Aloe vera
Aloe vera, also known as Aloe barbadensis, can be grown both outside and inside. Just make sure you place them in full sun. As with any succulent, watering should be minimal during winter while in summer you should soak the soil then let it dry before watering it again. Because of its shallow roots we recommend choosing a wide pot instead of a deep one when replanting. Aloe vera plants are easily propagated. Just remove the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants when they are a couple inches tall.
4. Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)
Sedum morganianum or popularly called Burro’s Tail is a beautiful blue colored delicate succulent. When it blooms tiny little red flowers appear. All you need to know if you want to grow this beautiful succulent is that it needs gritty soil, good drainage, sunshine and protection from extreme cold temperatures. This means you can grow it both indoors and in your garden. Only downfall is its delicacy – the leaves will fall off at the slightest touch. Good thing is that you can use the fallen leaves to propagate new plants.
5. Zebra Plant (Haworthia attenuata)
You will easily fall in love with this beautiful succulent. Its beautifully patterned leaves with leathery surface, the small simple white flowers it produces, the fact that it is one of the easiest plants to grow – all these make Haworthia attenuata a favorite plant. This succulent has only two enemies – frost and excess water. If you live in a colder climate keep it inside at least during the winter.
6. Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’
Echeverias are among the most popular succulents and Echeveria ‘Lady Aquarius’ is surely the favorite among them. It looks like a ruffly underwater sea anemone forming loose, up to 8 inches (20 cm) rosette. You can grow this beautiful succulent even if you are a beginner gardener as it is tough and resilient. To keep your plant happy and healthy place it in full sun and provide good drainage.
7. Jade Plant (Crassula ovata)
Crassula ovata or commonly known as Jade Plant or Jade Tree is one of the most popular succulents, especially as a house plant. Just like any other succulent they prefer strong light and a well-draining soil. They can tolerate low light and require very little watering. It is very easy to propagate them by simply rooting a cutting of the stem or leaves. Jade Plants’ leaves are rubbery to the touch and quite flexible. If grown in strong light they will get a beautiful red margin.
8. Flaming Katy (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)
Kalanchoe is a succulent praised for its beautiful flowers and Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is the most popular and common species. It can have orange, pink, red, white, or red flowers and some varieties have double flowers. It blooms in winter which makes it even more wanted in every home garden. This attractive plant is low-maintenance like any other succulent and will thrive perfectly in full sun with very little water. Be aware that the frost will hurt it.
9. Queen Victoria Agave (Agave victoriae-reginae)
Agaves are native to the Americas. They are one of the most popular succulents due to their rosette shape, drought resistance and low maintenance in general. The blooming happens once as the plant will die afterwards. Agave victoriae-reginae is probably the favorite among Agave species. It grows to the size of a soccer ball over time.
10. Black Rose (Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’)
Aeoniums are popular succulents because their resemble big, fleshy-petalled daisies and of course they are easy to grow both on your home or in your garden. There are many hybrids and species out there but Aeonium arboreum ‘Zwartkop’ is surely a show stopper with its magenta-black. In winter bright yellow flowers contrast with the dark foliage. For best results provide full sun and well-drained soil.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a succulent native to South Africa, now a familiar garden and houseplant around the world, largely due to how easy it is to care for. It is tolerant of poor sandy soil, prefers to be root bound in a pot and doesn’t need too much watering. With minimal care, these plants can live for decades. Only in regions where the temperatures are extreme, do you even have to worry about the temperature in which to keep your Jade Plant. Jade Plants actually need some exposure to cooler temperatures in the winter to thrive.
Hardy Zones
Jade Plant is considered hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, with temperature ranges of 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 to 10 degrees Celsius) in the winter. Throughout much of the West Coast and southern states, the Jade Plant can live outdoors even in the winter.
Best Temperatures
Jade Plants will tolerate lower temperatures and even prefer the lower temperatures of about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (7 to 13 degrees Celsius) in the winter.
Cold Temperature Damage
If exposed to frost or low temperatures for too long, your Jade Plant may appear limp. If this occurs, you may just need to wait and see if the plant revives. Cut back any stems that turn black or appear rotted. Don’t be tempted to overwater the plant to revive it. Let the soil dry out before watering. Bring it indoors into a room that gets good ambient sunlight.
Protection from Cold Temperatures
If you live in an area where temperatures regularly drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius), you should keep your Jade Plant in a pot and bring it indoors for the winter. You can move it back outdoors in the spring when temperatures are regularly above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). If you live in a region where temperatures only sometimes drop too low for your Jade Plant, then it will probably be fine outdoors with some protection from frost, such as bringing it onto a covered patio, covering it with cloth, or stringing Christmas lights onto the plant.
Hardy Zones
Jade Plant is considered hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, with temperature ranges of 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 to 10 degrees Celsius) in the winter. Throughout much of the West Coast and southern states, the Jade Plant can live outdoors even in the winter.
Best Temperatures
Jade Plants will tolerate lower temperatures and even prefer the lower temperatures of about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (7 to 13 degrees Celsius) in the winter.
Cold Temperature Damage
If exposed to frost or low temperatures for too long, your Jade Plant may appear limp. If this occurs, you may just need to wait and see if the plant revives. Cut back any stems that turn black or appear rotted. Don’t be tempted to overwater the plant to revive it. Let the soil dry out before watering. Bring it indoors into a room that gets good ambient sunlight.
Protection from Cold Temperatures
If you live in an area where temperatures regularly drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius), you should keep your Jade Plant in a pot and bring it indoors for the winter. You can move it back outdoors in the spring when temperatures are regularly above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius). If you live in a region where temperatures only sometimes drop too low for your Jade Plant, then it will probably be fine outdoors with some protection from frost, such as bringing it onto a covered patio, covering it with cloth, or stringing Christmas lights onto the plant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Aquilegia, also known as Columbine plants are easy-to-grow perennials that offers seasonal interest throughout much of the year. Aquilegia‘s bell-shaped flowers are popular with hummingbirds, bees and gardeners. The mid-spring blooms fill the void between early spring bulbs and peak garden season. They are associated with woodland gardens, but most are widely adaptable. Many of the species are native to areas throughout North America, from Canada to Texas.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips have long been a popular selection for gardens and cut-flower arrangements. There are about 150 tulip species that come in dozens of colors and shades. With a little effort and know-how, even beginning gardeners will find tulips are easy to grow. Tulips are popular worldwide, with numerous festivals held each year in honor of the flower.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are perhaps one of the easiest flowers that you can grow in the garden. They are so easy to grow that they are frequently used to introduce very young gardeners to the joys of gardening. Many gardeners fondly remember planting the black and white seeds of giant Sunflowers and watching in wonder as they grew to tower into the sky.
But just because Sunflowers are easy to grow does not mean that they should be dismissed from the grown-up garden. The variety of Sunflowers available to the home gardener is absolutely amazing and, as an added bonus, Sunflowers can help attract some local birds to your garden.
Sunflowers come in sizes that range from dwarf varieties, which can be as small as a foot and a half tall, to giant varieties, which grow to be over twelve feet tall. You can find Sunflowers in colors from very pale yellows to dark, burgundy reds and all shades of yellow, red and orange in-between.
Sunflowers also come in a variety of petal counts. While the single layer of petals is still the most common, you can find quite a few Sunflower varieties with double and teddy bear petal layers. All of these sunflower options ensure that when you add these flowers to your garden, it will be anything but blah.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you decide to add Sunflowers to your garden, there are a few things you will want to keep in mind.
First of all, they are called sunflowers for a reason. They need sun. Make sure that the location you choose for your Sunflowers gets full sun.
Second, you do not need to worry about soil too much. They are not picky about the conditions of the soil, but they are plants. They will do better in better soil.
Third, Sunflower seed shells do contain a substance that is toxic to grass. So, you will need to either harvest the Sunflower heads before the seeds begin to fall out or you will need to plant your Sunflowers in a location where you do not mind any nearby grass being killed.
Fourth, keep in mind the height of the Sunflower variety you have chosen. A giant, twelve foot variety will end up acting very much like a small tree and may shade the surrounding flowers.
As mentioned above, Sunflowers can also help you to attract local birds to your garden. When the growing season is coming to a close, you can harvest your sunflower heads and use some of the seeds to feed the birds over the winter. You have two options when using sunflower seeds to feed the birds. The first is that you can simply leave the Sunflower heads outside for the birds. This option is the easiest but be warned that the birds will make a mess when pulling the seeds out of the Sunflower head. Your other option is to remove the seeds from the head and to put them in your bird feeder. This method is a little more work but will be neater in the long run. Also, putting the seeds in a birdfeeder will also help to keep your feathered friends safe as the birdfeeder will be up off the ground and out of reach of many of the animals that eat birds.
So, while you may have fond memories of tall yellow Sunflowers that you planted as a child, give this old garden favorite a new try and rediscover the world of sunflowers.
But just because Sunflowers are easy to grow does not mean that they should be dismissed from the grown-up garden. The variety of Sunflowers available to the home gardener is absolutely amazing and, as an added bonus, Sunflowers can help attract some local birds to your garden.
Sunflowers come in sizes that range from dwarf varieties, which can be as small as a foot and a half tall, to giant varieties, which grow to be over twelve feet tall. You can find Sunflowers in colors from very pale yellows to dark, burgundy reds and all shades of yellow, red and orange in-between.
Sunflowers also come in a variety of petal counts. While the single layer of petals is still the most common, you can find quite a few Sunflower varieties with double and teddy bear petal layers. All of these sunflower options ensure that when you add these flowers to your garden, it will be anything but blah.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you decide to add Sunflowers to your garden, there are a few things you will want to keep in mind.
First of all, they are called sunflowers for a reason. They need sun. Make sure that the location you choose for your Sunflowers gets full sun.
Second, you do not need to worry about soil too much. They are not picky about the conditions of the soil, but they are plants. They will do better in better soil.
Third, Sunflower seed shells do contain a substance that is toxic to grass. So, you will need to either harvest the Sunflower heads before the seeds begin to fall out or you will need to plant your Sunflowers in a location where you do not mind any nearby grass being killed.
Fourth, keep in mind the height of the Sunflower variety you have chosen. A giant, twelve foot variety will end up acting very much like a small tree and may shade the surrounding flowers.
As mentioned above, Sunflowers can also help you to attract local birds to your garden. When the growing season is coming to a close, you can harvest your sunflower heads and use some of the seeds to feed the birds over the winter. You have two options when using sunflower seeds to feed the birds. The first is that you can simply leave the Sunflower heads outside for the birds. This option is the easiest but be warned that the birds will make a mess when pulling the seeds out of the Sunflower head. Your other option is to remove the seeds from the head and to put them in your bird feeder. This method is a little more work but will be neater in the long run. Also, putting the seeds in a birdfeeder will also help to keep your feathered friends safe as the birdfeeder will be up off the ground and out of reach of many of the animals that eat birds.
So, while you may have fond memories of tall yellow Sunflowers that you planted as a child, give this old garden favorite a new try and rediscover the world of sunflowers.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Borage (Borago) is a freely seeding, easy growing annual plant with vivid blue flowers and leaves with the flavor of cucumbers. It is consider an herb, but is often grown as a flower in vegetable gardens where it attracts pollinating bees and is considered a good companion plant for tomatoes, squash and strawberries. It’s even supposed to deter tomato hornworms and improve the flavor of tomatoes growing nearby.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
Borage can bloom from late spring through summer. Staggering your planting times will give you a longer period of bloom and provide a longer harvest time.
Borage is actually a somewhat gangly plant, but you barely notice it because the star-shaped flowers are so vibrant. They’re a true blue, hanging in downward facing clusters. Even the fuzzy white buds are attractive. Both the flowers and the leaves are edible, with a cucumber-like flavor. Use the leaves while they are young, because as the plant matures, the stalks and leaves become covered with a prickly fuzz.
Design Suggestions
Borage is often grown in the vegetable or herb garden because it is such a bee magnet and because it is considered a good growing companion for other plants. However, it is equally beautiful in a cottage style flower garden, where it has room to self-seed. Harvesting or deadheading will keep it in bloom longer.
Growing Tips
Borage grows best if direct seeded. Barely cover the seeds with soil and keep well watered. They are tolerant of any type soil, even poor dry soil. However a sunny location with rich, well draining soil is optimal.
If you choose to start seedlings, transplant before they become pot bound. Plan to start seedlings about 3-4 weeks before the last expected frost and don’t transplant outdoors until the soil has warmed. Once seedling are about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) tall, thin to approximately 12 inches (40 cm) apart.
Maintenance: Plants in poor soil will benefit from periodic feeding with any fertilizer labeled for use on edible plants. Something with a high phosphorous number (the middle number on a fertilizer package) will help keep them in flower. Plants can be pinched or pruned, to encourage branching and to keep them shorter.
Harvesting: Harvest leaves and flowers as needed. Older leaves will get prickly, making harvesting anything on the plant a bit unpleasant. However, the flowers do add a bit of flavor and a great deal of color to salads, soups, dips & spreads, open face sandwiches, beverages and ice cubes. As with all edible flowers, use sparingly until you know how they effect you. Borage is said to have a mild laxative effect.
Borage is open pollinated and it is very easy to collect and save the seed from flowers allowed to remain on the plant and turn brown. Borage self-seeds readily, if allowed to go to seed naturally. Excess plants are fairly easy to remove from the garden.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Some of the most popular orchid plants among home growers are Dendrobium orchids These showy flowers are relatively easy to grow, with a central long stem and an attractive spray of flowers that can last up to four weeks.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
What southern garden is complete without the majestic, fragrant Magnolia tree? If you’ve long admired the beauty of Magnolias, you’ll be happy to learn that they’re quite easy to grow. And with over 80 species native to North America and Asia, there’s sure to be one that’s right for your yard.
With their glorious flowers and dramatic foliage, magnolias are a garden favorite. Magnolias:
– Require very little care.
– Are resistant to many diseases and pests.
– Tolerate harsh Southern summers.
– Provide year-round beauty.
– Seeds and foliage are favorites of migrating birds.
As you dream about Magnolias in your yard, keep in mind that there are many different species and varieties to choose from. They range in size from 20 to 80 feet (6 to 24 m) tall, with both evergreen and deciduous species.
Growing Conditions
Although different species of Magnolia can tolerate slightly different conditions, in general they will do best with:
Soil: Slightly acidic, moist, loose, well-draining soil. To mimic Magnolia’s natural conditions, amend heavy soil with peat moss and compost.
Hardiness: Grow best in Zones 7-10, depending on variety, with a few cultivars hardy to zone 5.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Moist, peaty soil can help Magnolias tolerate full sun. If you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance, avoid planting Magnolias in southern exposure since the leaves can be damaged by winter sun and flowers may open prematurely.
Water: Magnolias benefit from irrigation the first few years, then they are tolerant of moderate drought.
Space: They need room to grow to their full mature size and width. While looking small when first planted, over time they’ll grow to fill up the space.
Flowers: Some varieties of Magnolia don’t bloom until 15 years old, so be sure to choose one that’s fits your needs and expectations. Grafted plants (rather than seed-grown) bloom sooner.
Planting Tips
Timing: Plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped Magnolias in fall or spring. Plant field-grown or transplanted Magnolias in early spring. Avoid fall planting if you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance.
Spread Roots: When planting, be sure to cut any roots that are circling the root ball. Magnolias have a tendency to girdle (or become rootbound) if the roots aren’t spread out.
Water: Give your new Magnolia one inch of water per week.
Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize your newly planted Magnolia until next growing season. Then for the next three years or so, feed your Magnolia with a balanced organic fertilizer every other month between March and September, cutting back to once or twice per season after that.
Support: Use stakes and lines to stabilize your new magnolia since it will be top-heavy.
Growing Tips
Problems: Magnolias are generally trouble-free, and in most cases, minor problems – such as scale or leaf spots – can be left untreated.
Pruning: If you want to prune or shape your Magnolia, do it while the tree is very young since large branches don’t heal very well from pruning.
Bark Damage: Magnolias are susceptible to bark damage and breakage, so avoid hitting them with the string trimmer or lawn mower.
Propagating: You can propagate Magnolias by collecting the seeds, or take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer. Cuttings can take up to a year to root.
Transplanting: Magnolias have an enormous, rope-like root system. They don’t usually tolerate transplanting once the trunk is 4 inches (10 cm) or larger in diameter.
With their glorious flowers and dramatic foliage, magnolias are a garden favorite. Magnolias:
– Require very little care.
– Are resistant to many diseases and pests.
– Tolerate harsh Southern summers.
– Provide year-round beauty.
– Seeds and foliage are favorites of migrating birds.
As you dream about Magnolias in your yard, keep in mind that there are many different species and varieties to choose from. They range in size from 20 to 80 feet (6 to 24 m) tall, with both evergreen and deciduous species.
Growing Conditions
Although different species of Magnolia can tolerate slightly different conditions, in general they will do best with:
Soil: Slightly acidic, moist, loose, well-draining soil. To mimic Magnolia’s natural conditions, amend heavy soil with peat moss and compost.
Hardiness: Grow best in Zones 7-10, depending on variety, with a few cultivars hardy to zone 5.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Moist, peaty soil can help Magnolias tolerate full sun. If you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance, avoid planting Magnolias in southern exposure since the leaves can be damaged by winter sun and flowers may open prematurely.
Water: Magnolias benefit from irrigation the first few years, then they are tolerant of moderate drought.
Space: They need room to grow to their full mature size and width. While looking small when first planted, over time they’ll grow to fill up the space.
Flowers: Some varieties of Magnolia don’t bloom until 15 years old, so be sure to choose one that’s fits your needs and expectations. Grafted plants (rather than seed-grown) bloom sooner.
Planting Tips
Timing: Plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped Magnolias in fall or spring. Plant field-grown or transplanted Magnolias in early spring. Avoid fall planting if you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance.
Spread Roots: When planting, be sure to cut any roots that are circling the root ball. Magnolias have a tendency to girdle (or become rootbound) if the roots aren’t spread out.
Water: Give your new Magnolia one inch of water per week.
Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize your newly planted Magnolia until next growing season. Then for the next three years or so, feed your Magnolia with a balanced organic fertilizer every other month between March and September, cutting back to once or twice per season after that.
Support: Use stakes and lines to stabilize your new magnolia since it will be top-heavy.
Growing Tips
Problems: Magnolias are generally trouble-free, and in most cases, minor problems – such as scale or leaf spots – can be left untreated.
Pruning: If you want to prune or shape your Magnolia, do it while the tree is very young since large branches don’t heal very well from pruning.
Bark Damage: Magnolias are susceptible to bark damage and breakage, so avoid hitting them with the string trimmer or lawn mower.
Propagating: You can propagate Magnolias by collecting the seeds, or take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer. Cuttings can take up to a year to root.
Transplanting: Magnolias have an enormous, rope-like root system. They don’t usually tolerate transplanting once the trunk is 4 inches (10 cm) or larger in diameter.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Planting Speedwell (Veronica officinalis) in the garden is a great way to enjoy long-lasting blooms throughout the summer season. These easy-care plants don’t require much upkeep once established, making them ideal for the busy gardener.
An easy to care for perennial with flowers in an array of vibrant blues, pinks and white, the Speedwell is drought resistant but should be watered in the summer when there is less than an inch of rainfall per week. The plant has a long blooming season, from June to August, and is fairly pest and disease resistant as well, with the exception of some issues like powdery mildew, spider mites, and thrips.
Speedwell perennials are reportedly deer and rabbit resistant, but butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to their dizzying hues. Flowers will bloom for six to eight weeks throughout the summer months and, as a result, make beautiful cut flower additions to vase arrangements or for container gardening in mixed flower groupings.
Growing Conditions
Speedwell thrives in conditions as wide ranging as full sun to partial shade and in loamy, sandy or clay dense soils. However, it does prefer a sunny location with well draining soil. The soil pH can be as liberal as neutral, alkaline or acidic, with moisture content from average to quite moist.
The hardy medium sized plant, with striking 1 to 3 foot (30 to 90 cm) flower spikes, flourishes in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. The Speedwell is tolerant of a variety of conditions but prefers full sun and well drained soil.
Speedwell can be sown from seed; however, it is more commonly purchased from a nursery so planting it in the garden can take place right away in spring.
General Care
Speedwell plant care is relatively low maintenance. In order to facilitate maximum blooming, it is advisable to remove the faded spikes from Speedwell and periodically divide the plant every few years in the early spring or fall.
The tallest Speedwell specimens generally require staking, and in late autumn after the first frost, cut stems back to an inch or so above ground level.
An easy to care for perennial with flowers in an array of vibrant blues, pinks and white, the Speedwell is drought resistant but should be watered in the summer when there is less than an inch of rainfall per week. The plant has a long blooming season, from June to August, and is fairly pest and disease resistant as well, with the exception of some issues like powdery mildew, spider mites, and thrips.
Speedwell perennials are reportedly deer and rabbit resistant, but butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to their dizzying hues. Flowers will bloom for six to eight weeks throughout the summer months and, as a result, make beautiful cut flower additions to vase arrangements or for container gardening in mixed flower groupings.
Growing Conditions
Speedwell thrives in conditions as wide ranging as full sun to partial shade and in loamy, sandy or clay dense soils. However, it does prefer a sunny location with well draining soil. The soil pH can be as liberal as neutral, alkaline or acidic, with moisture content from average to quite moist.
The hardy medium sized plant, with striking 1 to 3 foot (30 to 90 cm) flower spikes, flourishes in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. The Speedwell is tolerant of a variety of conditions but prefers full sun and well drained soil.
Speedwell can be sown from seed; however, it is more commonly purchased from a nursery so planting it in the garden can take place right away in spring.
General Care
Speedwell plant care is relatively low maintenance. In order to facilitate maximum blooming, it is advisable to remove the faded spikes from Speedwell and periodically divide the plant every few years in the early spring or fall.
The tallest Speedwell specimens generally require staking, and in late autumn after the first frost, cut stems back to an inch or so above ground level.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Flower gardens can turn an ordinary area into a colorful showcase or create a border that pops. Whether you choose an easy to manage perennial or a particularly touchy annual, growing flowers is a rewarding addition to any yard or landscape.
Choosing Flowers
Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you?
It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun.
There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals).
For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants
Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden.
Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes.
Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants
An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze.
Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden.
As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil
Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare.
If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting
When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts.
Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first.
Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance
Perennials
The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm).
Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates.
Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants.
Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each.
Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season.
If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals
Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
Choosing Flowers
Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you?
It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun.
There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals).
For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants
Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden.
Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes.
Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants
An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze.
Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden.
As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil
Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare.
If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting
When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts.
Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first.
Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance
Perennials
The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm).
Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates.
Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant.
Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants.
Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each.
Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season.
If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals
Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day.
Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Every flower gardener should know the pleasure of growing Clematis. If you already have one in your garden, you’re probably scheming about how to squeeze in another! New to Clematis? Read on and discover how easy it is to be successful with the “queen of climbers”.
Selecting
Clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices. When selecting a Clematis for your garden, you’ll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.
If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot (3 or 6 m) Clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.
The standard Clematis flower form is a large blossom with 6 or 7 petals, measuring 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.
It can take several years for a Clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it’s best to purchase a plant that’s at least 2 years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot. If you’re shopping for your Clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that’s showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.
Where to Plant
Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new Clematis . Ideally it’s a sunny spot.
Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new Clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.
Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of Clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface. Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your Clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.
Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.
How to Support
Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a Clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can’t find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.
A Clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a Pole Bean or a Morning Glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that’s more than about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. The easiest things for a Clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine “helper” lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.
Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you’ll probably need to do some “trussing” during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.
Pruning and Care
Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year’s vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don’t mind being cut to the ground each year. Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year’s growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.
A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.
Selecting
Clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices. When selecting a Clematis for your garden, you’ll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.
If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot (3 or 6 m) Clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.
The standard Clematis flower form is a large blossom with 6 or 7 petals, measuring 5 to 6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm) across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.
It can take several years for a Clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it’s best to purchase a plant that’s at least 2 years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot. If you’re shopping for your Clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that’s showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.
Where to Plant
Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new Clematis . Ideally it’s a sunny spot.
Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that’s neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new Clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.
Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of Clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface. Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your Clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.
Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.
How to Support
Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a Clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can’t find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.
A Clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a Pole Bean or a Morning Glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that’s more than about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. The easiest things for a Clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine “helper” lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.
Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you’ll probably need to do some “trussing” during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.
Pruning and Care
Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year’s vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don’t mind being cut to the ground each year. Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year’s growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.
A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.
1
1
