文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Cassia trees are also called candlebrush, and it’s easy to see why. In late summer, the golden yellow flowers that hang from the branches in long clusters resemble candles. This large, spreading shrub or small tree makes a great container accent plant that looks fantastic on patios and near entryways. You can also use it as a specimen or lawn tree. Pruning cassia trees helps strengthen the structure and keeps it looking neat.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
When to Trim Cassia Trees
Prune cassia trees at planting time only if necessary to removed dead and diseased branches and those that cross and rub against each other. Rubbing causes wounds that can provide entry points for insects and disease organisms. Cassia trees are normally pruned in late winter or early spring. Early pruning gives the shrub plenty of time to form the buds that will bloom in late summer. Do the first structural pruning the first spring after planting. Early spring is also a good time to pinch out the tips of new growth to encourage more lateral shoots and flowers.
How to Prune Cassia Trees
Cassia tree pruning begins by removing dead and diseased branches. If you are removing just a portion of a branch, make the cut one-quarter inch above a bud or twig. New stems will grow in the direction of the bud or twig, so choose the site carefully. Cut out diseased and damaged branches several inches below the damage. If the wood in the cross section of the cut is dark or discolored, cut a little further down the stem. When pruning for structure, remove branches that shoot straight up and leave those that have a wide crotch between the branch and the trunk. Make a clean cut flush with the trunk when removing a branch. Never leave a long stub.
Removing the tips of new growth encourages more new branches and flowers. Take off the tips of the stems, cutting just above the last bud on the branch. Since the flowers form on new growth, you’ll get more flowers as the new shoots form.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Perfect for the summer container garden, brugmansia is a fast-growing, easy-care shrub. This beautiful, flowering plant is not only easy to grow but propagating brugmansia is easy too. There are three methods of brugmansia propagation — by seeds, cuttings, and air layering — so you’re sure to find the method that works best for you.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
Growing Brugmansia from Seeds
Brugmansia seeds are enclosed in a cork-like covering. The seeds themselves resemble small beans. When growing brugmansia from seeds, you can choose to leave this covering in place or remove it. Keep in mind, however, that taking the seed covering off will allow for faster germination and sprouting. Plant brugmansia seeds about half an inch deep in a mixture of sand and peat. Water well. The seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Once seedlings have obtained their second leaves, they can be gently lifted and repotted individually in well-draining potting soil. Place in an area with indirect light.
Rooting Brugmansia Cuttings
Rooting brugmansia cuttings is the easiest way to propagate plants. They can be rooted in soil or water using both hardwood and softwood cuttings. Select cuttings from older wood and make them at least 6 inches long. When rooting brugmansia in water, remove all the bottom leaves. Change the water daily and once roots appear, move cuttings to a soil environment. If rooting in soil, place cutting about two inches deep in well-draining potting soil. Use your finger or a stick to make this easier. Likewise, you can make a small “trench” with your finger and place the cutting inside, firming the soil around the bottom part of the brugmansia cutting. Water the cutting and place it in a semi-shaded location until well rooted, at which time you can provide additional light.
Brugmansia Propagation Using Air Layering
Air layering allows you to root brugmansia cuttings while remaining on the mother plant. Choose a branch and cut an angled notch in the bottom side. Apply rooting hormone and then place some moistened peat mix (or soil) around the wound. Lightly wrap clear plastic over this. Once significant rooting has taken place, cut the branch from the mother plant and remove the plastic. Plant this in a pot of well-draining soil and keep it watered. Move to a shady location until well established before adding more light.
Brugmansia propagation is an easy and effective way to add more of these lovely plants to your garden. And with three different methods to choose from, propagating brugmansia is sure to be a success.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Often known simply as “Brug,” brugmansia is a distinctive plant with big, fuzzy leaves and huge, drooping, trumpet-shaped blooms as long as your foot and interesting bean-like seedpods. This flashy tropical plant is surprisingly easy to grow, but it helps to know exactly how to water brugmansias.
When to Water Brugmansia
The frequency of brugmansia irrigation depends on a number of factors, including temperature, sunlight, time of year, and whether the plant is in a pot or in the ground. The key is to get acquainted with your brugmansia and it will tell you when it’s thirsty. Basically, water the plant when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch and the leaves begin to look a little wilted.
How much water does brugmansia need? As a general rule, the plant will require fairly large amounts of water during the summer. If your brugmansia is in a pot, you may need to water it every day when the weather is hot and dry. Brugmansia in the ground needs water less frequently. Potted brugmansia should be watered sparingly and allowed to dry out somewhat during the winter months, but don’t allow your plant to become completely bone dry.
How to Water Brugmansia
Watering brugmansia plants isn’t difficult. If possible, fill a watering can or bucket with water a day or so before you plan to water your brugmansia. This will allow harmful chemicals to evaporate and your plant will be happier and healthier. Pour the water over the soil slowly until water trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Never let the bottom of the pot stand in water; soggy, poorly drained soil invites root rot, a disease that is often fatal. A pot with a drainage hole is an absolutely necessity.
Give the plant a nutritional boost by mixing a general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer into the water every couple of weeks or so.
When to Water Brugmansia
The frequency of brugmansia irrigation depends on a number of factors, including temperature, sunlight, time of year, and whether the plant is in a pot or in the ground. The key is to get acquainted with your brugmansia and it will tell you when it’s thirsty. Basically, water the plant when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch and the leaves begin to look a little wilted.
How much water does brugmansia need? As a general rule, the plant will require fairly large amounts of water during the summer. If your brugmansia is in a pot, you may need to water it every day when the weather is hot and dry. Brugmansia in the ground needs water less frequently. Potted brugmansia should be watered sparingly and allowed to dry out somewhat during the winter months, but don’t allow your plant to become completely bone dry.
How to Water Brugmansia
Watering brugmansia plants isn’t difficult. If possible, fill a watering can or bucket with water a day or so before you plan to water your brugmansia. This will allow harmful chemicals to evaporate and your plant will be happier and healthier. Pour the water over the soil slowly until water trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Never let the bottom of the pot stand in water; soggy, poorly drained soil invites root rot, a disease that is often fatal. A pot with a drainage hole is an absolutely necessity.
Give the plant a nutritional boost by mixing a general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer into the water every couple of weeks or so.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Roses are edible flowers. From ancient times they have appeared at feasting tables as bouquets and as food. The flavor of roses is varied as the colors. The sweet, tart or spicy petals are easy to use and popular additions to any kitchen.
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
Step 1
Select fresh roses free of pesticides. Preferably the roses should be from your garden or an organic market. Light-color roses are more sweet or light in flavor. Darker roses have more aroma and flavor. Taste a rose petal to decide where it belongs on your menu.
Step 2
Wash roses by gently swishing them in cool water. Blot them gently with paper towels. Grasp the petals between the thumb and fingers of one hand and the blossom stem in the other hand. Pull out the petals. Discard any blemished petals. Use the petals immediately or store refrigerated in a plastic bag. Use within a few days for best flavor and freshness.
Step 3
Freeze rose petals in ice cubes. The fast way is fill the water trays and freeze until the ice is slushy, and then tuck in a petal or two. Freeze until solid. The more elegant way is to fill trays half full of water. Freeze. Drop in a rose petal for each cube. Cover petals with a spoonful of water and freeze again. Fill trays with water and freeze. Use rose cubes in lemonade, iced tea or punch.
Step 4
Make salad days rosy by sprinkling sweet-tasting fresh petals over fruit salads. Mix petals in whipped cream for fruit topping. Sprinkle spicy rose petals on green salads. Add and shake petals with vinegar-oil dressings for aroma and flavor.
Step 5
Prepare rose butter by mixing a half-cup to 1 cup of chopped rose petals in a cup of sweet unsalted butter. Let the blend stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then mix again and refrigerate to fully flavor the butter. Use this rose butter on bread or warm muffins. Substitute rose butter for regular butter in cookie or cake recipes. This butter refrigerates up to 2 weeks and freezes well.
Step 6
Infuse rose water by adding 2 cups rose petals to 1 quart water. Bring to a gentle boil, then turn off heat and let cool. Filter out the rose petals and bottle the water. Refrigerate the water for use in ice cubes or tea. Add rose water in place of regular water for gelatins and other desserts.
Step 7
Garnish with dried rose petals. Spread the petals on a microwave-safe dish or paper plate. Heat them for 1 or 2 minutes until dry. Scatter the small dry petals on everything from appetizers to desserts. Add a dusting of petals to top off vanilla pudding, brownies or ice cream. Sprinkle dry petals on frosted cakes or cupcakes. Have a rosy time in the kitchen!
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Knockout roses are flowering bushes that produce large, bright flowers. The fragrance produced is not as strong as other varieties of roses, and the flowers do not typically last as long after being cut. However, the knockout rose is exceptionally easy to care for, and is resistant to drought and many diseases. The flowers can be pink, red or yellow, and will bloom throughout most of the year in warm climates.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
Planting
Plant knockout roses in a location that receives between six and eight hours of direct sunlight each day. Ensure the soil is fertile and has high drainage; additional organic compost can be added if necessary. Plant the roses in late April, after the last frost of the season and when the soil has warmed to a workable temperature.
Dig a hole 2 feet wide by 2 feet deep to plant each knockout rose. Transplant the bush directly into the hole and cover with soil. Water thoroughly after planting to compact the soil and collapse any air pockets.
Watering
Water the knockout roses two to three times a week until they become established. This will promote root growth, and help the plant create more food for developing leaves and blossoms. Reduce watering to about 1 inch per week after the first three months. Never allow the leaves to get wet, as this can cause disease. Water the roses as early in the day as possible, so any leaves that do become moist will dry out before the temperature drops in the evening.
Mulching and Fertilizing
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch directly around the base of the knockout roses. This will help conserve water, maintain a constant soil temperature, add additional nutrients to the soil and discourage the growth of weeds. Replace the mulch after two or three months, or when it is visibly deteriorating.
Feed the knockout roses with a balanced fertilizer with 10-10-10 NPK or similar. Spread between ½ and 1 cup of fertilizer directly around the base of the plants in late April. Continue feeding every four to five weeks until late August. Prevent root burn by watering the roses before and after applying the fertilizer.
Pruning
Prune knockout roses once yearly in late March. Remove any stems that are dead, dying or diseased. Cut back all other stems to a length between one and two feet. This will provide more air circulation and light to penetrate to the inner portions of the bush, reducing the chance of fungi or diseases.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Monkey grass (Liriope spicata) is a grass that is quite common in areas that are hilly or uneven because they fill in the area quite nicely. It comes in thick and is quite easy to grow. A lot of people are not sure about what to do about pruning monkey grass or cutting monkey grass. They ask themselves, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” or “may I mow it, or do I need to trim with clippers?” When you worry about how well you take care of your yard or land, you might be worried, but there is nothing to worry about.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Gardeners delight in easy to care for and beautiful ground covers that they can just plug in and let go. Creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia procumbens) is one of these garden favorites that, once planted, provides a feast of color all season long. This low-growing beauty has a dainty trailing habit, which makes it perfect for hanging baskets and container arrangements as well. Keep reading to learn more about creeping zinnia ground cover plants.
Growing Creeping Zinnia Plants
Use creeping zinnia in the garden if you have a sunny spot with well-drained soil that needs some color. Where summers are mild, this Mexican native will spread up to 18 inches and bear beautiful little orange or yellow sunflower-like flowers from summer through fall.
Creeping zinnia ground cover does best when sown in a sunny garden spot in early spring. Use light, loamy potting soil with plenty of drainage if using the plant in a container garden. Many people start creeping zinnia ground cover seeds in hanging baskets or containers indoors, about four to six weeks before spring, to get a jump-start on the season. Sow seeds on top of a prepared planting surface and cover lightly with peat moss for best results. Keep seeds evenly moist until you see sprouts emerge, which should be sometime within a couple weeks.
Creeping Zinnia Care
Once creeping zinnia in the garden is well established, their care is minimal. Fertilize growing creeping zinnia plants monthly during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Creeping zinnias are drought, humidity and heat tolerant and should not be overwatered. If you are using creeping zinnias in a container or hanging basket, be sure to provide a little extra water, as needed since pots tend to dry out quickly. There are no major pests associated with growing creeping zinnia plants.
Growing Creeping Zinnia Plants
Use creeping zinnia in the garden if you have a sunny spot with well-drained soil that needs some color. Where summers are mild, this Mexican native will spread up to 18 inches and bear beautiful little orange or yellow sunflower-like flowers from summer through fall.
Creeping zinnia ground cover does best when sown in a sunny garden spot in early spring. Use light, loamy potting soil with plenty of drainage if using the plant in a container garden. Many people start creeping zinnia ground cover seeds in hanging baskets or containers indoors, about four to six weeks before spring, to get a jump-start on the season. Sow seeds on top of a prepared planting surface and cover lightly with peat moss for best results. Keep seeds evenly moist until you see sprouts emerge, which should be sometime within a couple weeks.
Creeping Zinnia Care
Once creeping zinnia in the garden is well established, their care is minimal. Fertilize growing creeping zinnia plants monthly during the growing season with a water-soluble fertilizer. Creeping zinnias are drought, humidity and heat tolerant and should not be overwatered. If you are using creeping zinnias in a container or hanging basket, be sure to provide a little extra water, as needed since pots tend to dry out quickly. There are no major pests associated with growing creeping zinnia plants.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
While they are most commonly found growing in moist, wooded areas, sword ferns are quickly becoming popular in the home garden as well. These interesting plants are easy to grow with sword fern care being just as simple.
All About Sword Ferns
The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. In addition to spreading through rhizomes, sword ferns will also reproduce via spores that are found along the backside of the fronds. These spores appear as brown spots, which are clustered together in groups.
How to Grow Sword Ferns
Learning how to grow sword ferns will be easier if you know how you want to use them in the landscape. Although most people prefer to grow them for ornamental purposes, they have other uses too. For instance, sword ferns make excellent ground cover plants. When planted on hillsides, they can be useful in preventing erosion. They work well with other perennial plantings as well, especially when used as understory plants. Sword ferns perform best in moist shady conditions. However, as long as there is good drainage, the sword fern can easily adapt to a number of soil conditions. They can even thrive in sun when given plenty of moisture.
Sword ferns transplant easily in the garden. And while some people may be lucky enough to have these plants growing naturally on their property already, there are various cultivars available through nurseries. Planting takes place in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. The hole should be about twice as large as the root ball and it often helps to mix in some compost and other organic matter as well.
Sword Fern Care
Once established in the garden, caring for sword ferns is easy. They are drought resistant and usually don’t require much in the way of water, except during the first year after planting when they should be kept evenly moist. Sword fern plants will keep their foliage throughout winter and can be trimmed back in spring, if desired, though it’s usually better to only cut off dead foliage. Plants can also be divided in spring and transplanted to other areas of the garden.
In addition to their graceful appearance, ease of planting and caring for sword ferns makes them great choices for the landscape. So for those looking to add interest and texture to the garden or fill in open areas, the sword fern plant may be just what the plant doctor ordered.
All About Sword Ferns
The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. In addition to spreading through rhizomes, sword ferns will also reproduce via spores that are found along the backside of the fronds. These spores appear as brown spots, which are clustered together in groups.
How to Grow Sword Ferns
Learning how to grow sword ferns will be easier if you know how you want to use them in the landscape. Although most people prefer to grow them for ornamental purposes, they have other uses too. For instance, sword ferns make excellent ground cover plants. When planted on hillsides, they can be useful in preventing erosion. They work well with other perennial plantings as well, especially when used as understory plants. Sword ferns perform best in moist shady conditions. However, as long as there is good drainage, the sword fern can easily adapt to a number of soil conditions. They can even thrive in sun when given plenty of moisture.
Sword ferns transplant easily in the garden. And while some people may be lucky enough to have these plants growing naturally on their property already, there are various cultivars available through nurseries. Planting takes place in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. The hole should be about twice as large as the root ball and it often helps to mix in some compost and other organic matter as well.
Sword Fern Care
Once established in the garden, caring for sword ferns is easy. They are drought resistant and usually don’t require much in the way of water, except during the first year after planting when they should be kept evenly moist. Sword fern plants will keep their foliage throughout winter and can be trimmed back in spring, if desired, though it’s usually better to only cut off dead foliage. Plants can also be divided in spring and transplanted to other areas of the garden.
In addition to their graceful appearance, ease of planting and caring for sword ferns makes them great choices for the landscape. So for those looking to add interest and texture to the garden or fill in open areas, the sword fern plant may be just what the plant doctor ordered.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
There are over 100 species of sedge plants. What is sedge? These grass-like plants are drought tolerant, easy to grow and practically maintenance free. There are many types of sedge to choose from, but native sedge plants offer the opportunity to replenish and renew natural landscapes while giving the gardener a hardy plant made for the region. Whichever species you opt for, growing sedge plants in the garden brings texture and movement to any area of the landscape.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax) was once thought to be related to Agave but has since been placed in the Phormium family. New Zealand flax plants are popular ornamentals in United States Department of Agriculture zone 8. Their fan-like form and easy growth from rhizomes are excellent accents in containers, perennial gardens, and even coastal regions. Once you know how to grow New Zealand flax, you may be rewarded with 6- to 10-foot wide plants with an amazing potential height of 20 feet in perfect conditions.
New Zealand Flax Plant Information
New Zealand flax plants have two main species in cultivation but numerous cultivars. Cultivars exhibit red, yellow, green, burgundy, purple, maroon and many more foliage colors. There are even variegated flax for exciting foliar contrast. If plants are in warm enough regions, caring for New Zealand flax is a breeze with few insect or disease complaints and hardy establishment.
This flax is named for its fibrous leaves, which were once used to make baskets and textiles. All parts of the plant were used with medicine made from roots, face powder from flower pollen and old blooming stems roped together as rafts. Leaves are keel shaped, coming to a decided point. They can be used as decorative plants in zones 9 to 11 with best growth in zone 8.
New Zealand flax plant information indicates that tubular, showy flowers appear on erect stems but only in their native region and rarely in greenhouse care. New Zealand flax plants offer architectural interest but are not winter hardy and should be brought indoors for winter in most climates.
How to Grow New Zealand Flax
New Zealand flax is a slow growing perennial plant. The most common method of propagation is through division and fully rooted specimens are widely available at nursery centers. One of the main requirements this plant has is well-draining soil. Boggy or heavy clay soils will reduce growth and can contribute to rotten stems and rhizomes. The flax tolerates partial sun but will perform better in full sun situations. New Zealand flax attracts birds and is not attractive to deer. It is easy to maintain, drought tolerant when established and makes a good erosion control. New Zealand flax plant care is minimal once plants are mature, but the flax may suffer damaged and shredded leaf tips in windy and exposed sites.
Caring for New Zealand Flax
Hybrid flax plants are not as durable as the two base species. They require more water and some shelter from hot sunlight, which can burn the leaf tips. They are reliably hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.), but all species can simply be moved indoors in fall to prevent damage. Use a couple of inches of organic mulch around the root zone to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and insulate the rhizomes. Occasionally, pruning is necessary where damage has occurred due to sun or cold. Cut off dead and damaged leaves as needed.
The flax thrives in poor soils, so fertilization is not necessary, but annual top dressings of finely rotted compost can help add nutrients to the soil and increase percolation. New Zealand flax plant care is easiest to manage in containers in northern climates. Bring the plant inside for winter and gradually reintroduce it to outdoors when ambient temperatures warm in spring.
New Zealand Flax Plant Information
New Zealand flax plants have two main species in cultivation but numerous cultivars. Cultivars exhibit red, yellow, green, burgundy, purple, maroon and many more foliage colors. There are even variegated flax for exciting foliar contrast. If plants are in warm enough regions, caring for New Zealand flax is a breeze with few insect or disease complaints and hardy establishment.
This flax is named for its fibrous leaves, which were once used to make baskets and textiles. All parts of the plant were used with medicine made from roots, face powder from flower pollen and old blooming stems roped together as rafts. Leaves are keel shaped, coming to a decided point. They can be used as decorative plants in zones 9 to 11 with best growth in zone 8.
New Zealand flax plant information indicates that tubular, showy flowers appear on erect stems but only in their native region and rarely in greenhouse care. New Zealand flax plants offer architectural interest but are not winter hardy and should be brought indoors for winter in most climates.
How to Grow New Zealand Flax
New Zealand flax is a slow growing perennial plant. The most common method of propagation is through division and fully rooted specimens are widely available at nursery centers. One of the main requirements this plant has is well-draining soil. Boggy or heavy clay soils will reduce growth and can contribute to rotten stems and rhizomes. The flax tolerates partial sun but will perform better in full sun situations. New Zealand flax attracts birds and is not attractive to deer. It is easy to maintain, drought tolerant when established and makes a good erosion control. New Zealand flax plant care is minimal once plants are mature, but the flax may suffer damaged and shredded leaf tips in windy and exposed sites.
Caring for New Zealand Flax
Hybrid flax plants are not as durable as the two base species. They require more water and some shelter from hot sunlight, which can burn the leaf tips. They are reliably hardy to 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.), but all species can simply be moved indoors in fall to prevent damage. Use a couple of inches of organic mulch around the root zone to conserve moisture, prevent weeds and insulate the rhizomes. Occasionally, pruning is necessary where damage has occurred due to sun or cold. Cut off dead and damaged leaves as needed.
The flax thrives in poor soils, so fertilization is not necessary, but annual top dressings of finely rotted compost can help add nutrients to the soil and increase percolation. New Zealand flax plant care is easiest to manage in containers in northern climates. Bring the plant inside for winter and gradually reintroduce it to outdoors when ambient temperatures warm in spring.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Muhlbergia is a variety of ornamental grass with spectacular showgirl flair. The common name is muhly grass and it is extremely hardy and easy to grow. What is muhly grass? Read on for muhly grass care and to learn how to grow ornamental muhly grass. The appeal the plant will give to your garden is well worth the effort.
What is Muhly Grass?
Muhly grass grows in clumps that are 3 to 4 feet tall. It is native to Florida and the eastern half of the United States. The grass is known for its pink to purple inflorescences which float above the body of the plant in an airy display worthy of a fairy princess. The show of color gives it the name pink muhly grass. There is also a white flowering variety. The plant has long sharp-edged foliage blades and can reach 3 feet in width. Known for its extreme drought tolerance, growing muhly grass is easy and requires little maintenance or upkeep.
How to Grow Ornamental Muhly Grass
Plant your pink muhly grass in any type of soil, so long as it drains well. Muhlbergia does not like wet feet. It is naturally found along highways, in flat forests and along coastal dunes, so it is important to match the natural growing range of the plant. Plant several together but spaced at least 2 feet apart for an eye popping effect. The lighting should be as bright and sunny as you can find in your garden. With the exception of light trimming if you wish, this grass thrives on cruel neglect. It tolerates rocky soil where there is little organic matter and merciless sun and dryness. It can even tolerate flooding for short periods.
Care of Pink Muhly Grass
Water frequently when growing muhly grass babies, but once the grass is mature, you only need to give supplemental water when periods of drought are severe. You can feed the plants in spring with a diluted by half balanced plant food and water when the soil is dry in the top couple of inches. Other than that, there isn’t a lot to do for this beautiful grass. The grass is semi-evergreen but you may want to cut it back in early spring to remove any brown blades and make way for new green growth.
One other aspect of muhly grass care is division. You can divide the plants every three years to keep them in an upright habit and producing plenty of inflorescences. Simply dig up the plant in late fall to early spring. Cut apart the root ball into at least two pieces, being careful to include healthy roots and lots of green grass blades on each section. Replant the pieces in the ground or pots, and water frequently for the first couple of weeks as the grasses grow. Care of pink muhly grass divisions is the same as older more established plants.
What is Muhly Grass?
Muhly grass grows in clumps that are 3 to 4 feet tall. It is native to Florida and the eastern half of the United States. The grass is known for its pink to purple inflorescences which float above the body of the plant in an airy display worthy of a fairy princess. The show of color gives it the name pink muhly grass. There is also a white flowering variety. The plant has long sharp-edged foliage blades and can reach 3 feet in width. Known for its extreme drought tolerance, growing muhly grass is easy and requires little maintenance or upkeep.
How to Grow Ornamental Muhly Grass
Plant your pink muhly grass in any type of soil, so long as it drains well. Muhlbergia does not like wet feet. It is naturally found along highways, in flat forests and along coastal dunes, so it is important to match the natural growing range of the plant. Plant several together but spaced at least 2 feet apart for an eye popping effect. The lighting should be as bright and sunny as you can find in your garden. With the exception of light trimming if you wish, this grass thrives on cruel neglect. It tolerates rocky soil where there is little organic matter and merciless sun and dryness. It can even tolerate flooding for short periods.
Care of Pink Muhly Grass
Water frequently when growing muhly grass babies, but once the grass is mature, you only need to give supplemental water when periods of drought are severe. You can feed the plants in spring with a diluted by half balanced plant food and water when the soil is dry in the top couple of inches. Other than that, there isn’t a lot to do for this beautiful grass. The grass is semi-evergreen but you may want to cut it back in early spring to remove any brown blades and make way for new green growth.
One other aspect of muhly grass care is division. You can divide the plants every three years to keep them in an upright habit and producing plenty of inflorescences. Simply dig up the plant in late fall to early spring. Cut apart the root ball into at least two pieces, being careful to include healthy roots and lots of green grass blades on each section. Replant the pieces in the ground or pots, and water frequently for the first couple of weeks as the grasses grow. Care of pink muhly grass divisions is the same as older more established plants.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
For finely textured foliage in the shady to part sun garden or natural wooded area, consider growing lady fern plants (Athyrium filix-femina). Lady fern plants are reliable, native plants and easy to grow in a moist, partially shaded location. When you’ve learned how to grow a lady fern, you’ll want to include them in many shady areas of the landscape. Care of lady ferns is not difficult once the plant is established in the right location.
Lady Ferns in the Garden
Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round.
Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern
Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
Lady Ferns in the Garden
Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round.
Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern
Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas have become extremely popular in the last few years, with good reason. Gardeners love hostas for their colorful foliage, versatility, toughness, easy growth habits and ability to grow and thrive without bright sunlight.
Plants that Grow Well with Hosta
Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to best advantage.
Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.
Companions for Hosta
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Spring bulbs
Trillium
Snowdrops
Tulips
Crocus
Daffodils
Anemone
Caladiums
Ornamental grass
Sedges (Carex)
Japanese forest grass
Northern sea oats
Shrubs
Rhododendron
Azalea
Hydrangea
Perennials
Wild ginger
Pulmonaria
Heuchera
Ajuga
Dianthus
Astilbe
Maidenhair fern
Japanese painted fern
Annuals
Begonias
Impatiens
Coleus
Plants that Grow Well with Hosta
Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to best advantage.
Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.
Companions for Hosta
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Spring bulbs
Trillium
Snowdrops
Tulips
Crocus
Daffodils
Anemone
Caladiums
Ornamental grass
Sedges (Carex)
Japanese forest grass
Northern sea oats
Shrubs
Rhododendron
Azalea
Hydrangea
Perennials
Wild ginger
Pulmonaria
Heuchera
Ajuga
Dianthus
Astilbe
Maidenhair fern
Japanese painted fern
Annuals
Begonias
Impatiens
Coleus
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are popular with many gardeners because they are easy to grow and maintain. They are perennials, coming back year after year, and they tolerate shade. Hostas tend to grow large, but if your space is limited, growing the adorably mouse-ear hosta may be for you. If you want to know how to grow mouse-ear hosta, here’s what you need to know.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
0
0
