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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Leaves of chocolate mint plants add versatility to drinks, desserts and garnishes for a variety of dishes you prepare in the kitchen. Growing chocolate mint, both indoors and outside, is an easy way to always have a fresh supply of the chocolate herb plant. Chocolate mint plants (Mentha x piperita ‘Chocolate’) are attractive, fragrant and easy to grow. As with most square-stemmed members of the mint family, growing chocolate mint can take over the area in which it is planted in the ground, readily and quickly. When learning how to care for chocolate mint, know that it must be contained in some way to avoid the rapid spread of the chocolate herb plant. Horror stories of the escape of uncontained chocolate mint are shared by gardeners who planted it directly in the ground, only for it to take over the bed or spread to a neighbor’s property where it must then be removed.
How to Grow and Harvest Chocolate Mint
Growing chocolate mint in containers is easy. Regular pinching and division keeps chocolate mint healthy, full and under control. Mature brownish red stems and attractive serrated leaves become full after pinching out the tips. Use the leaves in your dishes and drinks. Longer stems of the chocolate herb plant can be clipped for rooting more plants. Learning how to grow and harvest chocolate mint provides a regular supply of the fragrant leaves, which may be used fresh or dried for later use. Growing chocolate mint outside in pots that can be placed in full to partial sun is easy. Once you have a cutting rooted, you likely won’t need to get another plant. Yearly division of the contents of the pot results in an abundance of plants for you or to share with friends and family so that everyone has a container of the useful chocolate herb plant.
If you want to grow the chocolate herb plant in a garden with other herbs, plant the entire container and sink it into the ground. Don’t remove the bottom of the pot. Roots of the growing chocolate mint plant may escape through drainage holes, but you can remove the container once in awhile and clip off any roots that grow from drainage holes. You can also include it in a chocolate themed garden with other chocolate plants. Learning how to care for chocolate mint is simple too. Water and fertilize occasionally and grow in full sun for maximum flavor. Harvest throughout the growing season, unless you want the plant to display its attractive pink flowers in late spring to midsummer. If so, clip after flowering. Root new cuttings in late summer to bring inside for the winter.
How to Grow and Harvest Chocolate Mint
Growing chocolate mint in containers is easy. Regular pinching and division keeps chocolate mint healthy, full and under control. Mature brownish red stems and attractive serrated leaves become full after pinching out the tips. Use the leaves in your dishes and drinks. Longer stems of the chocolate herb plant can be clipped for rooting more plants. Learning how to grow and harvest chocolate mint provides a regular supply of the fragrant leaves, which may be used fresh or dried for later use. Growing chocolate mint outside in pots that can be placed in full to partial sun is easy. Once you have a cutting rooted, you likely won’t need to get another plant. Yearly division of the contents of the pot results in an abundance of plants for you or to share with friends and family so that everyone has a container of the useful chocolate herb plant.
If you want to grow the chocolate herb plant in a garden with other herbs, plant the entire container and sink it into the ground. Don’t remove the bottom of the pot. Roots of the growing chocolate mint plant may escape through drainage holes, but you can remove the container once in awhile and clip off any roots that grow from drainage holes. You can also include it in a chocolate themed garden with other chocolate plants. Learning how to care for chocolate mint is simple too. Water and fertilize occasionally and grow in full sun for maximum flavor. Harvest throughout the growing season, unless you want the plant to display its attractive pink flowers in late spring to midsummer. If so, clip after flowering. Root new cuttings in late summer to bring inside for the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Banana mint plants (Mentha arvensis ‘Banana’) are a variety of mint with bright, fuzzy, lime-green foliage and a pronounced, very delightful aroma of banana. Like all mint plants, growing banana mint is easy. Read on for all the banana mint information you need to get started with this fun, and rather quirky plant.
Banana Mint Information
Although these plants are grown primarily for their foliage, the small purple flowers, which bloom throughout the summer, are highly attractive to bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects. Mature height of the plant is about 18 inches. Banana mint plants are perennial, and suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 11.
Growing Banana Mint
Banana mint grows in partial shade or full sunlight and nearly any type of well-drained soil. However, keep in mind that although banana mint may not be quite as rowdy as many of its mint cousins, it can still become quite aggressive. If you’re concerned that the plants may be bullies in your garden, plant them in containers to keep growth in check. Planting seeds isn’t recommended for banana mint, and may not produce the results you’re hoping for. However, it’s easy to start mint cuttings or divisions from an existing plant, or by planting young banana mint plants purchased at a nursery or greenhouse. You can even root banana mint cuttings in a glass of water.
Banana Mint Care
Banana mint requires little care. The most important thing is to keep the soil moist, but not saturated. Banana mint plants don’t tolerant dry soil. Harvest banana mint regularly to keep the plant full and attractive. If the plant ever begins to look long and leggy in midsummer, feel free to cut it back by about one-third of its height. It will rebound quickly. Cut the plants nearly to the ground in fall. If you live in the cooler ranges of the acceptable climate zones, a layer of mulch will protect the roots during the winter.
Uses for Banana Mint
Fresh banana mint leaves add flavor to hot and cold tea, adult beverages, ice cream and baked goods, such as muffins and cookies. The leaves are also easy to dry for use in the off-season.
Banana Mint Information
Although these plants are grown primarily for their foliage, the small purple flowers, which bloom throughout the summer, are highly attractive to bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects. Mature height of the plant is about 18 inches. Banana mint plants are perennial, and suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 11.
Growing Banana Mint
Banana mint grows in partial shade or full sunlight and nearly any type of well-drained soil. However, keep in mind that although banana mint may not be quite as rowdy as many of its mint cousins, it can still become quite aggressive. If you’re concerned that the plants may be bullies in your garden, plant them in containers to keep growth in check. Planting seeds isn’t recommended for banana mint, and may not produce the results you’re hoping for. However, it’s easy to start mint cuttings or divisions from an existing plant, or by planting young banana mint plants purchased at a nursery or greenhouse. You can even root banana mint cuttings in a glass of water.
Banana Mint Care
Banana mint requires little care. The most important thing is to keep the soil moist, but not saturated. Banana mint plants don’t tolerant dry soil. Harvest banana mint regularly to keep the plant full and attractive. If the plant ever begins to look long and leggy in midsummer, feel free to cut it back by about one-third of its height. It will rebound quickly. Cut the plants nearly to the ground in fall. If you live in the cooler ranges of the acceptable climate zones, a layer of mulch will protect the roots during the winter.
Uses for Banana Mint
Fresh banana mint leaves add flavor to hot and cold tea, adult beverages, ice cream and baked goods, such as muffins and cookies. The leaves are also easy to dry for use in the off-season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you’re looking for a great addition to garden beds or borders, or even something to add to a meadow garden, consider planting the easy-growing self heal plant (Prunella vulgaris).
About Common Self Heal Plant
Prunella vulgaris plant is commonly known as the self heal herb. It has been used medicinally for centuries. In fact, the entire plant, which is edible, can be used both internally and externally to treat a number of health complaints and wounds. The plant’s most common use is for the treatment of cold sores.
Prunella is a perennial plant native to Europe but can also be found growing in parts of Asia and the United States. Depending on the region grown, prunella plant blooms from June through August with lavender or white flowers. The plants are usually cut during summer flowering and used (fresh or dried) in making herbal tinctures, infusions, and ointments.
Growing Prunella Plant
While this easy-care plant is adaptable enough to grow nearly anywhere, prunella performs best in areas that mimic its native environment—woodland edges and meadows. They require cool to mild temperatures and sun to partial shade. Plants may be divided or sown in spring. Amend the soil with organic matter and plant prunella about 4 to 6 inches deep and space 6 to 9 inches apart. Seed should be lightly covered with soil and can be thinned as needed once seedlings emerge. For those starting seeds indoors, do so about 10 weeks prior to spring planting. Since prunella is related to mint and prone to vigorous spreading, some form of containment (such as bottomless pots) may be necessary in flower beds or borders. Mature plants reach about 1 to 2 feet high, at which time they will fall over and attach new roots to the ground. Therefore, you’ll want to make sure your pot is not situated flush with the ground. To prevent reseeding, trim back prunella plants after blooming has ceased.
Prunella Plant Care
Regular deadheading also maintains the plant’s overall appearance and encourages additional blooming. Once the growing season is complete, prune the plant back to ground level.
About Common Self Heal Plant
Prunella vulgaris plant is commonly known as the self heal herb. It has been used medicinally for centuries. In fact, the entire plant, which is edible, can be used both internally and externally to treat a number of health complaints and wounds. The plant’s most common use is for the treatment of cold sores.
Prunella is a perennial plant native to Europe but can also be found growing in parts of Asia and the United States. Depending on the region grown, prunella plant blooms from June through August with lavender or white flowers. The plants are usually cut during summer flowering and used (fresh or dried) in making herbal tinctures, infusions, and ointments.
Growing Prunella Plant
While this easy-care plant is adaptable enough to grow nearly anywhere, prunella performs best in areas that mimic its native environment—woodland edges and meadows. They require cool to mild temperatures and sun to partial shade. Plants may be divided or sown in spring. Amend the soil with organic matter and plant prunella about 4 to 6 inches deep and space 6 to 9 inches apart. Seed should be lightly covered with soil and can be thinned as needed once seedlings emerge. For those starting seeds indoors, do so about 10 weeks prior to spring planting. Since prunella is related to mint and prone to vigorous spreading, some form of containment (such as bottomless pots) may be necessary in flower beds or borders. Mature plants reach about 1 to 2 feet high, at which time they will fall over and attach new roots to the ground. Therefore, you’ll want to make sure your pot is not situated flush with the ground. To prevent reseeding, trim back prunella plants after blooming has ceased.
Prunella Plant Care
Regular deadheading also maintains the plant’s overall appearance and encourages additional blooming. Once the growing season is complete, prune the plant back to ground level.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a commonly grown herb. Both its stalk and foliage are used in many prepared dishes such as teas, soups and sauces. While it is easy to grow and care for, some people are not sure about when or how to go about picking lemongrass. In fact, lemongrass harvesting is easy and can be done nearly anytime or year round when grown indoors.
Harvesting Lemongrass
Lemongrass is commonly used to add flavor and aroma to food. However, it is typically the stalk which is most often utilized and edible. Since the stalks are somewhat hard, they’re normally crushed in order to allow the lemony flavor to come through when cooking. Only the tender part inside is considered edible, so once it’s cooked, it can be sliced and added to various dishes. This tender portion also tends to be located towards the bottom of the stalk.
How to Harvest Lemongrass
Harvesting lemongrass is simple. While you can harvest lemongrass pretty much at any time throughout its growing season, in cooler regions, it is normally harvested towards the end of the season, just before the first frost. Indoor plants can be harvested throughout the year.
Keeping in mind that the most edible part is near the bottom of the stalk; this is where you’ll want to snap or cut off your lemongrass. Begin with older stalks first and look for those that are anywhere between ¼- to ½-inch thick. Then either snap it off as close to the roots as possible or cut the stalk at ground level. You can also twist and pull the stalk. Don’t worry if you wind up with some of the bulb or roots.
After you have harvested your lemongrass stalks, remove and discard the woody portions, as well as the foliage (unless you intend on using and drying the leaves for teas or soups). While most people pick lemongrass to use right away, it can be frozen for up to six months if needed. Now that you know a little more about lemongrass harvesting, you can pick this interesting and tasty herb to use for your own cooking.
Harvesting Lemongrass
Lemongrass is commonly used to add flavor and aroma to food. However, it is typically the stalk which is most often utilized and edible. Since the stalks are somewhat hard, they’re normally crushed in order to allow the lemony flavor to come through when cooking. Only the tender part inside is considered edible, so once it’s cooked, it can be sliced and added to various dishes. This tender portion also tends to be located towards the bottom of the stalk.
How to Harvest Lemongrass
Harvesting lemongrass is simple. While you can harvest lemongrass pretty much at any time throughout its growing season, in cooler regions, it is normally harvested towards the end of the season, just before the first frost. Indoor plants can be harvested throughout the year.
Keeping in mind that the most edible part is near the bottom of the stalk; this is where you’ll want to snap or cut off your lemongrass. Begin with older stalks first and look for those that are anywhere between ¼- to ½-inch thick. Then either snap it off as close to the roots as possible or cut the stalk at ground level. You can also twist and pull the stalk. Don’t worry if you wind up with some of the bulb or roots.
After you have harvested your lemongrass stalks, remove and discard the woody portions, as well as the foliage (unless you intend on using and drying the leaves for teas or soups). While most people pick lemongrass to use right away, it can be frozen for up to six months if needed. Now that you know a little more about lemongrass harvesting, you can pick this interesting and tasty herb to use for your own cooking.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a popular plant to grow for its culinary possibilities. A common ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine, it’s very easy to grow at home. And what’s more, you don’t even have to grow it from seed or buy plants at a nursery. Lemongrass propagates with a very high success rate from the cuttings you can buy at the grocery store. Keep reading to learn more about propagating a lemongrass plant and regrowing lemongrass plants in water.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a delicious citrus scented grass that is used in many Asian dishes. It also makes a lovely, easy to grow addition to the garden. Easy to grow it may be, but not without issues. I recently notice that my lemongrass is turning brown. The question is, WHY is my lemongrass turning brown? Let’s find out.
Help, My Lemongrass Leaves are Brown!
Like me, you’re probably asking “Why is my lemongrass turning brown?”
Insufficient watering/fertilizing
The most obvious reason for a lemongrass plant turning brown would be lack of water and/or nutrients. Lemongrass is native to areas with regular rainfall and high humidity so they may need more water in the home garden than other plants. Water and mist the plants regularly. To keep other plants nearby from getting drowned out by the frequent watering, plant the lemongrass in a bottomless container buried in the soil. Lemongrass also needs lots of nitrogen, so fertilize the plants with a balanced soluble fertilizer once a month.
Fungal diseases
Still have brown leaves on lemongrass? If a lemongrass plant is turning brown and water has been ruled out as the culprit, it might be a disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass might be a symptom of rust (Puccinia nakanishikii), a fungal disease that was first reported in Hawaii in 1985. In the case of rust infection, lemongrass leaves are not only brown, but there will be light yellow spots on the foliage with streaks of brown and dark brown pustules on the undersides of leaves. Severe infection may result in the death of leaves and eventually plants.
Rust spores survive on lemongrass debris on the ground and is then spread by wind, rain, and water splashing. It is most common in areas of high rainfall, high humidity, and warm temperatures. So, despite the fact that lemongrass thrives in such areas, obviously there can be too much of a good thing. To manage rust, promote healthy plants by using mulch and fertilize regularly, prune out any diseased leaves and avoid overhead irrigation. Also, don’t space the lemongrass too close together, which will only encourage transmission of the disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass may also mean leaf blight. Leaf blight’s symptoms are reddish brown spots on leaf tips and margins. The leaves actually look like they are desiccating. In the case of leaf blight, fungicides may be applied and also prune out any infected leaves.
Help, My Lemongrass Leaves are Brown!
Like me, you’re probably asking “Why is my lemongrass turning brown?”
Insufficient watering/fertilizing
The most obvious reason for a lemongrass plant turning brown would be lack of water and/or nutrients. Lemongrass is native to areas with regular rainfall and high humidity so they may need more water in the home garden than other plants. Water and mist the plants regularly. To keep other plants nearby from getting drowned out by the frequent watering, plant the lemongrass in a bottomless container buried in the soil. Lemongrass also needs lots of nitrogen, so fertilize the plants with a balanced soluble fertilizer once a month.
Fungal diseases
Still have brown leaves on lemongrass? If a lemongrass plant is turning brown and water has been ruled out as the culprit, it might be a disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass might be a symptom of rust (Puccinia nakanishikii), a fungal disease that was first reported in Hawaii in 1985. In the case of rust infection, lemongrass leaves are not only brown, but there will be light yellow spots on the foliage with streaks of brown and dark brown pustules on the undersides of leaves. Severe infection may result in the death of leaves and eventually plants.
Rust spores survive on lemongrass debris on the ground and is then spread by wind, rain, and water splashing. It is most common in areas of high rainfall, high humidity, and warm temperatures. So, despite the fact that lemongrass thrives in such areas, obviously there can be too much of a good thing. To manage rust, promote healthy plants by using mulch and fertilize regularly, prune out any diseased leaves and avoid overhead irrigation. Also, don’t space the lemongrass too close together, which will only encourage transmission of the disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass may also mean leaf blight. Leaf blight’s symptoms are reddish brown spots on leaf tips and margins. The leaves actually look like they are desiccating. In the case of leaf blight, fungicides may be applied and also prune out any infected leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemon balm is easy to grow and provides a pleasant, lemony flavor and aroma for hot dishes, tea or cold drinks. It’s hard to imagine that such a lovely plant could cause so many problems, but this member of the mint family is super-prolific and can wear out its welcome in a hurry.
How to Prevent Lemon Balm Weeds
A weed is defined as any plant that grows where you don’t want it, and lemon balm proves the point. This dainty little plant that looks so innocent when you buy it at the garden center can reach a height of 2 feet and a spread of 3 feet by the end of the first growing season. Worse yet, the plant self-seeds itself like a champ and before you know it, you have a garden full of more lemon balm than you ever wanted — or needed. The most effective way to keep lemon balm in bounds is to prevent the plant from going to seed. One way to accomplish this is to shear the plant two or three times every year so it doesn’t bloom. Don’t worry; cutting the plant back won’t hurt it. If the plant blooms, snip off the flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. Even one bloom can contain a tremendous number of seeds.
Getting Rid of Lemon Balm
If the plant has already gone to seed and taken over your garden, removing the plant by hand is usually the best recourse. Be sure the ground is slightly damp so you can pull entire plants, along with the roots and runners (stolons). If you leave roots or stolons in the ground, the plants will return with a vengeance. You may want to loosen the soil with a garden fork to make weeding easier if the ground is hard. One weeding may not be enough for complete lemon balm control. Keep an eye on problem areas and pull the small shoots as soon as they appear. Controlling lemon balm plants requires persistence.
How to Prevent Lemon Balm Weeds
A weed is defined as any plant that grows where you don’t want it, and lemon balm proves the point. This dainty little plant that looks so innocent when you buy it at the garden center can reach a height of 2 feet and a spread of 3 feet by the end of the first growing season. Worse yet, the plant self-seeds itself like a champ and before you know it, you have a garden full of more lemon balm than you ever wanted — or needed. The most effective way to keep lemon balm in bounds is to prevent the plant from going to seed. One way to accomplish this is to shear the plant two or three times every year so it doesn’t bloom. Don’t worry; cutting the plant back won’t hurt it. If the plant blooms, snip off the flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. Even one bloom can contain a tremendous number of seeds.
Getting Rid of Lemon Balm
If the plant has already gone to seed and taken over your garden, removing the plant by hand is usually the best recourse. Be sure the ground is slightly damp so you can pull entire plants, along with the roots and runners (stolons). If you leave roots or stolons in the ground, the plants will return with a vengeance. You may want to loosen the soil with a garden fork to make weeding easier if the ground is hard. One weeding may not be enough for complete lemon balm control. Keep an eye on problem areas and pull the small shoots as soon as they appear. Controlling lemon balm plants requires persistence.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a rambunctious plant with attractive, heart-shaped leaves and a delicate lemony aroma. A member of the mint family, lemon balm is easy to grow, even for newbie gardeners. If you’re wondering what to plant with lemon balm, read on for a few suggestions to get you started.
Lemon Balm Companion Planting
Lemon balm companion planting is a real boon in the garden, as this perennial herb attracts bees and other beneficial pollinators, while the strong, citrusy odor deters several unwelcome pests, including gnats and mosquitoes. Some gardeners even claim that lemon balm helps keep weeds in check. Finding companion plants for lemon balm is easy, because there are really no bad lemon balm companions! However, companions for lemon balm should be plants that thrive in the same growing conditions – rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun or light shade.
What to Plant with Lemon Balm
Most herbs, fruits and vegetables make great lemon balm companions, including the following:
Winter and summer squash
Melons
Tomatoes
All members of the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, etc.)
Apples
Kiwi
Onions
Fennel
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Nearly any blooming plant pairs well with lemon balm, but if you’re hoping to attract pollinators, good lemon balm companions include other nectar-rich plants such as:
Cosmos
Zinnias
Lupine
Poppies
Allium
Four o’clock
Rudbeckia
Echinacea
Sweet peas
Bee balm
Chamomile
Hyssop
Borage
If your goal is to deter pests, worthy companions for lemon balm are:
Marigolds
Geraniums
Daisies
Asters
Sunflowers
Nasturtiums
Petunias
Lavender
Dill
Mint
Chives
Parsley
Lemon Balm Companion Planting
Lemon balm companion planting is a real boon in the garden, as this perennial herb attracts bees and other beneficial pollinators, while the strong, citrusy odor deters several unwelcome pests, including gnats and mosquitoes. Some gardeners even claim that lemon balm helps keep weeds in check. Finding companion plants for lemon balm is easy, because there are really no bad lemon balm companions! However, companions for lemon balm should be plants that thrive in the same growing conditions – rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun or light shade.
What to Plant with Lemon Balm
Most herbs, fruits and vegetables make great lemon balm companions, including the following:
Winter and summer squash
Melons
Tomatoes
All members of the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, etc.)
Apples
Kiwi
Onions
Fennel
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Nearly any blooming plant pairs well with lemon balm, but if you’re hoping to attract pollinators, good lemon balm companions include other nectar-rich plants such as:
Cosmos
Zinnias
Lupine
Poppies
Allium
Four o’clock
Rudbeckia
Echinacea
Sweet peas
Bee balm
Chamomile
Hyssop
Borage
If your goal is to deter pests, worthy companions for lemon balm are:
Marigolds
Geraniums
Daisies
Asters
Sunflowers
Nasturtiums
Petunias
Lavender
Dill
Mint
Chives
Parsley
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Horsetail (Equisetum arvense) may not be favored by all, but to some this plant is treasured. Horsetail herb uses are plentiful and caring for horsetail plants in the herb garden is easy, provided you keep it from jumping ship and overtaking other areas of the garden. Keep reading to learn how to grow horsetail herbs.
Horsetail Plant Info
To some people it is a nuisance; to others it is an interesting and ancient herb that has earned its rightful place in history, the medicine closet and beauty products. Growing where other plants dare not, horsetail plant is a member of the Equisetum family and is closely related to ferns. Like ferns, horsetail plants reproduce via spores and they have a very deep rhizome system that can tunnel up to 3 feet under the soil.
Within the Equisetum family, there are two large groups: horsetails and scouring rushes. Horsetails have branches and a bushy appearance and scouring rushes have no branches. Both plants are without true leaves and use chlorophyll in their stems for photosynthesis. Horsetail is also known by a number of other names, including mare’s tail, horse pipes, snake grass and joint grass. Horsetail plant info suggests that it has earned its name for its jointed or segmented appearance and bristle-like texture, which is similar to a horse’s tail.
Horsetail Herb Uses
Horsetail is a very valuable herb due to its high content of silicon used in the treatment of osteoporosis. Horsetail has also been used to lower blood pressure, as a diuretic, to strengthen brittle nails, stop bleeding gums, relieve sore throats and as a topical treatment of burns and wounds. As with any herb, it is always best to consult a professional first. It can also be used as a substitute for a scouring pad in the kitchen by bundling several stems together and taking advantage of the tough and rough texture on the stems.
How to Grow Horsetail
Horsetail herb growing isn’t difficult if you provide the right conditions. Horsetail is fond of wet or boggy areas and thrives in poor soil, making it a perfect choice for areas in the landscape where other plants fail to thrive. Because it tends to spread rapidly, it’s best to give horsetail plenty of room to spread. The plants can also be kept in bounds by sinking them in bottomless containers. In fact, if you have limited space, you can grow horsetail in a container. Plants prefer a half day of sun and high heat and humidity. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 – 10, horsetail is easy to grow. It’s best to start plants from seed six weeks before the last frost and transplant outside in early spring. Caring for horsetail is easy once planted. Soil should remain wet at all times. If you are growing in a container, keep an eye on moisture levels and water accordingly. Keep old stems pruned for best performance.
Harvesting Horsetail Herbs
Horsetail herb harvesting is done in the summer. Pick stems, discarding any discolored ones, and let them dry in a cool, dark place. Once dry, the stem can be ground into a powder and stored in an airtight container for up to one year, or use for ornamental purposes. Young shoots can also be eaten like asparagus.
Horsetail Plant Info
To some people it is a nuisance; to others it is an interesting and ancient herb that has earned its rightful place in history, the medicine closet and beauty products. Growing where other plants dare not, horsetail plant is a member of the Equisetum family and is closely related to ferns. Like ferns, horsetail plants reproduce via spores and they have a very deep rhizome system that can tunnel up to 3 feet under the soil.
Within the Equisetum family, there are two large groups: horsetails and scouring rushes. Horsetails have branches and a bushy appearance and scouring rushes have no branches. Both plants are without true leaves and use chlorophyll in their stems for photosynthesis. Horsetail is also known by a number of other names, including mare’s tail, horse pipes, snake grass and joint grass. Horsetail plant info suggests that it has earned its name for its jointed or segmented appearance and bristle-like texture, which is similar to a horse’s tail.
Horsetail Herb Uses
Horsetail is a very valuable herb due to its high content of silicon used in the treatment of osteoporosis. Horsetail has also been used to lower blood pressure, as a diuretic, to strengthen brittle nails, stop bleeding gums, relieve sore throats and as a topical treatment of burns and wounds. As with any herb, it is always best to consult a professional first. It can also be used as a substitute for a scouring pad in the kitchen by bundling several stems together and taking advantage of the tough and rough texture on the stems.
How to Grow Horsetail
Horsetail herb growing isn’t difficult if you provide the right conditions. Horsetail is fond of wet or boggy areas and thrives in poor soil, making it a perfect choice for areas in the landscape where other plants fail to thrive. Because it tends to spread rapidly, it’s best to give horsetail plenty of room to spread. The plants can also be kept in bounds by sinking them in bottomless containers. In fact, if you have limited space, you can grow horsetail in a container. Plants prefer a half day of sun and high heat and humidity. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 – 10, horsetail is easy to grow. It’s best to start plants from seed six weeks before the last frost and transplant outside in early spring. Caring for horsetail is easy once planted. Soil should remain wet at all times. If you are growing in a container, keep an eye on moisture levels and water accordingly. Keep old stems pruned for best performance.
Harvesting Horsetail Herbs
Horsetail herb harvesting is done in the summer. Pick stems, discarding any discolored ones, and let them dry in a cool, dark place. Once dry, the stem can be ground into a powder and stored in an airtight container for up to one year, or use for ornamental purposes. Young shoots can also be eaten like asparagus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Delicious on fish and a must for any self-respecting dill pickle lover, dill (Anethum graveolens) is an herb native to the Mediterranean. As with most herbs, dill is fairly easy to care for but it does have its share of dill plant pests. Read on to find out about getting rid of insects on dill and other dill plant care.
Pests on Dill Plants
Dill isn’t bothered by too many pests. That said, there are a few frequent insects that enjoy feasting on these plants.
Aphids
One of the more common pests on dill plants are aphids. This comes as no surprise since aphids seem to enjoy munching on everything. A few aphids are no big deal, but aphids tend to multiply rapidly and can then severely weaken the plant. Interestingly, you may have heard that if you have plants that are being attacked, you should plant dill near them. The dill acts as a magnetic to the aphids, drawing them to the herb, and removing the threat from other plants. Aphid pests on dill plants usually meet their downfall in the form of the herb’s flowers. The small flowers are a powerful attractor to ladybugs, and ladybugs just happen to love dining on aphids. If your dill is in bloom, the problem will probably take care of itself. If not, you can always buy some ladybugs and sprinkle them onto the aphid infested dill.
Caterpillars and Worms
Another dill plant pest is the parsley worm. These caterpillars will eventually become gorgeous black swallowtail butterflies. They are usually not so plentiful that they will destroy the dill, but if you want to avoid any damage, simply remove them by hand. Less benign, is the armyworm whose young larvae feed heavily wreaking havoc on foliage. The armyworm reproduces rapidly as well, with from 3-5 generations in a single year. Biological control of Bacillus thuringiensis can be used to parasitize the larvae. Chemical control for the home gardener is limited in its usefulness. Cutworm larvae can eat clean through stems at the soil line. These pests are active at night but can be seen when the soil is disturbed during the day in their tell-tale curled C-shape. Cutworms, sort of like aphids, like almost everything to eat. They are difficult to treat. Remove all plant detritus from the area post-harvest or at least two weeks prior to replanting. Use plastic or foil collars around the plant stems, dug down into the soil several inches to prevent the larvae from severing stems. Also, spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plants which will cut the worms if they crawl over it.
Other Dill Pests
Other less common pests affecting dill plants include grasshoppers, tomato hornworms, slugs and snails.
Dill Plant Care and Pest Control
Dill plant care is simple but vital to the health of the plant. If the dill is in good health, generally getting rid of insects on dill is not imperative unless there is a severe infestation. Dill thrives in a full sun location in well-draining soil amended with organic fertilizer like compost. Sow the seeds in early spring once the ground has warmed. Plant the seeds just below the surface of the soil. Keep the plant regularly watered. A self-seeding annual, healthy dill will return year after year. The lovely lacy, yellow flowers will attract not only ladybugs, but parasitic wasps, which attack all manner of caterpillars. Between these two predator insects, dill stands a good chance of making it into those homemade dill pickles.
Pests on Dill Plants
Dill isn’t bothered by too many pests. That said, there are a few frequent insects that enjoy feasting on these plants.
Aphids
One of the more common pests on dill plants are aphids. This comes as no surprise since aphids seem to enjoy munching on everything. A few aphids are no big deal, but aphids tend to multiply rapidly and can then severely weaken the plant. Interestingly, you may have heard that if you have plants that are being attacked, you should plant dill near them. The dill acts as a magnetic to the aphids, drawing them to the herb, and removing the threat from other plants. Aphid pests on dill plants usually meet their downfall in the form of the herb’s flowers. The small flowers are a powerful attractor to ladybugs, and ladybugs just happen to love dining on aphids. If your dill is in bloom, the problem will probably take care of itself. If not, you can always buy some ladybugs and sprinkle them onto the aphid infested dill.
Caterpillars and Worms
Another dill plant pest is the parsley worm. These caterpillars will eventually become gorgeous black swallowtail butterflies. They are usually not so plentiful that they will destroy the dill, but if you want to avoid any damage, simply remove them by hand. Less benign, is the armyworm whose young larvae feed heavily wreaking havoc on foliage. The armyworm reproduces rapidly as well, with from 3-5 generations in a single year. Biological control of Bacillus thuringiensis can be used to parasitize the larvae. Chemical control for the home gardener is limited in its usefulness. Cutworm larvae can eat clean through stems at the soil line. These pests are active at night but can be seen when the soil is disturbed during the day in their tell-tale curled C-shape. Cutworms, sort of like aphids, like almost everything to eat. They are difficult to treat. Remove all plant detritus from the area post-harvest or at least two weeks prior to replanting. Use plastic or foil collars around the plant stems, dug down into the soil several inches to prevent the larvae from severing stems. Also, spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plants which will cut the worms if they crawl over it.
Other Dill Pests
Other less common pests affecting dill plants include grasshoppers, tomato hornworms, slugs and snails.
Dill Plant Care and Pest Control
Dill plant care is simple but vital to the health of the plant. If the dill is in good health, generally getting rid of insects on dill is not imperative unless there is a severe infestation. Dill thrives in a full sun location in well-draining soil amended with organic fertilizer like compost. Sow the seeds in early spring once the ground has warmed. Plant the seeds just below the surface of the soil. Keep the plant regularly watered. A self-seeding annual, healthy dill will return year after year. The lovely lacy, yellow flowers will attract not only ladybugs, but parasitic wasps, which attack all manner of caterpillars. Between these two predator insects, dill stands a good chance of making it into those homemade dill pickles.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is an easy to grow herb cultivated for culinary purposes. While dill is an annual, it readily self-sows and will generally make a return the successive spring. Every part of dill, the stems, leaves, flowers and even the seeds are edible. So what special care does dill need, if any? Should you prune dill? If so, does it make for more bushy herb plants? Keep reading to find out if you should prune dill and, if so, how to trim a dill plant.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
As with most herbs, dill (Anethum graveolens) is a fairly easy to grow plant. Even so, the gardener may have to deal with his or her share of dill plant problems, from pests to dill plant diseases. The following article contains information on identifying and treating diseases affecting dill plants.
Dill Plant Problems
Dill is an herbaceous plant grown as an annual. A member of the family Apiaceae, dill is cultivated for its leaves and seeds which are used in foods and medicinally. Dill means “to calm or soothe,” hinting at its ancient use to calm upset stomachs or colicky babies.
Believed to originate in the Mediterranean, dill (like other Mediterranean herbs) can be grown in a variety of soils but thrives in well-draining sandy loam, rich in organic matter. Again, like its Mediterranean relatives, dill is a sun lover and needs 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.
The plant is grown for either its seeds that are produced once the starburst shaped, yellow flower heads begin to die back or for its feathery, fern-like foliage. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it is best to direct sow in the spring once all danger of frost has passed. Once the plants have emerged (7-21 days later), thin to 12-15 inches between plants. Thereafter, promote a bushy habit by regularly pruning the plants back and take care not to over water. Once the plants have established, they are less likely to succumb to dill plant problems. That said, there are always the aphids that seem to be drawn to anything green and a plethora of other pests that must be watched for. Dill plant diseases are generally more deadly than pest infestation, but pests often are the source of dill diseases. Identifying and prompt treating of these issues with dill are the keys to saving the dill plants.
Diseases of Dill
As mentioned, insects are often the vectors for disease and aphids are one of the major culprits. Aphid infestations may result in the dill acquiring Carrot Motley Dwarf disease. This disease is caused by two viruses, carrot redleaf virus and carrot mottle virus, both of which must be present to infect the plant. The disease causes yellow and red discoloration of leaves and general stunting of plant growth. As the name suggests, carrots have are the origin for this disease, the aphids just pass it along. To prevent this disease of dill, control aphids with insecticidal soap and avoid planting the herb near areas of the garden where carrots have overwintered. Other diseases affecting dill plants are not insect related at all but fungal. Cercospora leaf blight fungus is one such disease that causes necrotic areas on the plant accompanied by a characteristic halo. These dying blemishes begin to blend together, resulting in large necrotic regions with the result of leaf die off. This disease may be the result of infested seed that is then spread via wind, rain or irrigation. To thwart cercospora leaf blight, use disease free seeds, rotate crops, eliminate crop debris, and use fungicide sprays according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another fungal disease, damping off, may also afflict dill. This disease results in soft, rotting seeds which do not germinate, or seedlings that emerge with reddish lesions around their stems and soon after die. Fungal spores can be spread in water, soil or on equipment. Treatment involves applying a fungicide to seeds prior to planting; planting in raised beds to aid in soil drainage; and avoiding planting in cool, wet, poorly draining soil. Additional fungal diseases that afflict dill are downy mildew fungus and powdery mildew fungus.
Downy mildew fungus appears as yellow spots on foliage accompanied by a white, fluffy growth on the underside of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the yellow spots begin to darken. This disease targets young, tender leaves and is fostered by wet leaves. Use disease free seed, don’t overcrowd the plants and rotate crops to minimize the incidence of downy mildew. Powdery mildew looks just what it sounds like, a powdery growth that attacks leaves and flower stalks. The results are chlorotic leaves and distorted blossoms. This fungal disease may float on air currents for long distances and is favored by conditions of high humidity combined with moderate temps. Avoid over fertilizing and apply protective fungicides to prevent this disease from affecting dill. If infection is spotted early in the season, treat with an application of sulfur.
Treating Issues with Dill
There are a few common denominators when treating disease issues with dill. These include:
Planting disease resistant seeds, when possible
Keeping the garden free of plant detritus and weeds that act as havens for disease and insects that transmit them
Treating insect infestations
Rotating crops
Planting dill in well-draining soil
Watering early in the morning at the base of the plants so the foliage does not stay wet
Using sanitation practices on tools, boots, and gloves to avoid the spread of disease
Dill Plant Problems
Dill is an herbaceous plant grown as an annual. A member of the family Apiaceae, dill is cultivated for its leaves and seeds which are used in foods and medicinally. Dill means “to calm or soothe,” hinting at its ancient use to calm upset stomachs or colicky babies.
Believed to originate in the Mediterranean, dill (like other Mediterranean herbs) can be grown in a variety of soils but thrives in well-draining sandy loam, rich in organic matter. Again, like its Mediterranean relatives, dill is a sun lover and needs 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.
The plant is grown for either its seeds that are produced once the starburst shaped, yellow flower heads begin to die back or for its feathery, fern-like foliage. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it is best to direct sow in the spring once all danger of frost has passed. Once the plants have emerged (7-21 days later), thin to 12-15 inches between plants. Thereafter, promote a bushy habit by regularly pruning the plants back and take care not to over water. Once the plants have established, they are less likely to succumb to dill plant problems. That said, there are always the aphids that seem to be drawn to anything green and a plethora of other pests that must be watched for. Dill plant diseases are generally more deadly than pest infestation, but pests often are the source of dill diseases. Identifying and prompt treating of these issues with dill are the keys to saving the dill plants.
Diseases of Dill
As mentioned, insects are often the vectors for disease and aphids are one of the major culprits. Aphid infestations may result in the dill acquiring Carrot Motley Dwarf disease. This disease is caused by two viruses, carrot redleaf virus and carrot mottle virus, both of which must be present to infect the plant. The disease causes yellow and red discoloration of leaves and general stunting of plant growth. As the name suggests, carrots have are the origin for this disease, the aphids just pass it along. To prevent this disease of dill, control aphids with insecticidal soap and avoid planting the herb near areas of the garden where carrots have overwintered. Other diseases affecting dill plants are not insect related at all but fungal. Cercospora leaf blight fungus is one such disease that causes necrotic areas on the plant accompanied by a characteristic halo. These dying blemishes begin to blend together, resulting in large necrotic regions with the result of leaf die off. This disease may be the result of infested seed that is then spread via wind, rain or irrigation. To thwart cercospora leaf blight, use disease free seeds, rotate crops, eliminate crop debris, and use fungicide sprays according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another fungal disease, damping off, may also afflict dill. This disease results in soft, rotting seeds which do not germinate, or seedlings that emerge with reddish lesions around their stems and soon after die. Fungal spores can be spread in water, soil or on equipment. Treatment involves applying a fungicide to seeds prior to planting; planting in raised beds to aid in soil drainage; and avoiding planting in cool, wet, poorly draining soil. Additional fungal diseases that afflict dill are downy mildew fungus and powdery mildew fungus.
Downy mildew fungus appears as yellow spots on foliage accompanied by a white, fluffy growth on the underside of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the yellow spots begin to darken. This disease targets young, tender leaves and is fostered by wet leaves. Use disease free seed, don’t overcrowd the plants and rotate crops to minimize the incidence of downy mildew. Powdery mildew looks just what it sounds like, a powdery growth that attacks leaves and flower stalks. The results are chlorotic leaves and distorted blossoms. This fungal disease may float on air currents for long distances and is favored by conditions of high humidity combined with moderate temps. Avoid over fertilizing and apply protective fungicides to prevent this disease from affecting dill. If infection is spotted early in the season, treat with an application of sulfur.
Treating Issues with Dill
There are a few common denominators when treating disease issues with dill. These include:
Planting disease resistant seeds, when possible
Keeping the garden free of plant detritus and weeds that act as havens for disease and insects that transmit them
Treating insect infestations
Rotating crops
Planting dill in well-draining soil
Watering early in the morning at the base of the plants so the foliage does not stay wet
Using sanitation practices on tools, boots, and gloves to avoid the spread of disease
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is a great herb to have around. It has fragrant, delicate foliage, bright yellow flowers and a flavor like none other. But there are a few different varieties of dill, and it may not be easy to know which one to grow. Keep reading to learn more about dill weed varieties and the different types of dill plants.
Dill Plant Types
So what are some different varieties of dill? There aren’t too many varieties of dill, but here are some notable types:
Bouquet is probably the most popular variety, grown for its fragrant leaves and seeds that are used in both cooking and pickling.
Long Island and Mammoth are also both very popular, largely because they grow so tall. Both can reach five feet in height and are excellent for pickling.
Fernleaf is a common dwarf variety at the other end of the spectrum, topping out at around 18 inches in height. It’s especially popular grown in containers as well as cut and used in flower arrangements.
Dukat is another smaller one of the dill plant types that is good for container growing, a compact variety that is brighter green than its cousins. It’s especially popular in salads.
Superdukat is a cultivar that has more essential oil than Dukat.
Delikat has lots of very dense foliage, making it ideal for harvesting the leaves for cooking.
Vierling is a variety that takes longer to bolt than other varieties of dill, making it a good choice if you want to harvest leaves all summer long.
Hercules is another variety that takes a long time to flower, though its leaves are coarser than those of other types, which means it’s best to harvest when the plant is young and the leaves are the most tender.
Dill Plant Types
So what are some different varieties of dill? There aren’t too many varieties of dill, but here are some notable types:
Bouquet is probably the most popular variety, grown for its fragrant leaves and seeds that are used in both cooking and pickling.
Long Island and Mammoth are also both very popular, largely because they grow so tall. Both can reach five feet in height and are excellent for pickling.
Fernleaf is a common dwarf variety at the other end of the spectrum, topping out at around 18 inches in height. It’s especially popular grown in containers as well as cut and used in flower arrangements.
Dukat is another smaller one of the dill plant types that is good for container growing, a compact variety that is brighter green than its cousins. It’s especially popular in salads.
Superdukat is a cultivar that has more essential oil than Dukat.
Delikat has lots of very dense foliage, making it ideal for harvesting the leaves for cooking.
Vierling is a variety that takes longer to bolt than other varieties of dill, making it a good choice if you want to harvest leaves all summer long.
Hercules is another variety that takes a long time to flower, though its leaves are coarser than those of other types, which means it’s best to harvest when the plant is young and the leaves are the most tender.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton growing with kids is easy and most will find this to be a fun project in addition to an educational one, especially once the finished product is harvested. Let’s learn more about how to grow cotton both indoors and out.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives are low-maintenance denizens of the herb garden, and they’re handy when you want to snip a few for use in recipes or topping baked potatoes. The only problem is that these easy-to-grow plants aren’t always well behaved and before you know it, they can escape their boundaries and pop up in places where you don’t want them – including your well-tended lawn. Read on for helpful tips for controlling chives and ridding lawns of chive plants.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
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