文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
EVERY flower gardener should know the pleasure of growing clematis. If you already have one in your garden, you're probably scheming about how to squeeze in another! New to clematis? Read on and discover how easy it is to be successful with the "queen of climbers."
Selecting a Plant
Until fairly recently, only a handful of clematis cultivars were readily available in the U.S. Some of these traditional favorites include Jackmanii, General Sikorski, Henryi and Comtesse de Bouchard. But clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices.
When selecting a clematis for your garden, you'll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.
If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.
The standard clematis flower form is a large blossom with six or seven petals, measuring 5-6" across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.
It can take several years for a clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it's best to purchase a plant that's at least two years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot. If you're shopping for your clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that's showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.
Where to Plant It
Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new clematis. Ideally it's a sunny spot. Though some clematis cultivars will bloom in partial shade (such as Nellie Moser and Henryii), to reach their full potential they need at least six hours of sun each day.
Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that's neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.
Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface. Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.
Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.
How to Support It
Though there are some types of clematis that have a bushy habit, most of them are born to climb. Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can't find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.
A clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a pole bean or a morning glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that's more than about 1/2 inch in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. The easiest things for a clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine "helper" lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.
Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you'll probably need to do some "trussing" during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.
Pruning and Care
Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year's vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don't mind being cut to the ground each year. Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year's growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.
A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.
Selecting a Plant
Until fairly recently, only a handful of clematis cultivars were readily available in the U.S. Some of these traditional favorites include Jackmanii, General Sikorski, Henryi and Comtesse de Bouchard. But clematis have become a hugely popular perennial, and today, the average local garden center offers dozens of different choices.
When selecting a clematis for your garden, you'll want to think about a couple things, which include its mature height, flower form and color.
If you have room for a vigorous 10- or 20-foot clematis vine, there are many wonderful cultivars that will fit the bill. There are also more compact varieties that are perfectly happy growing in a small garden or even in a pot on the patio.
The standard clematis flower form is a large blossom with six or seven petals, measuring 5-6" across. There are also cultivars with smaller blossoms, double blossoms, and lovely bell-like flowers. Colors range from white to wine red, lavender to deep purple, and there are even a few yellow ones.
It can take several years for a clematis vine to mature and begin flowering vigorously. To shorten the wait and help ensure your success, it's best to purchase a plant that's at least two years old. Look for a container-grown plant in a quart or gallon-size pot. If you're shopping for your clematis at a garden center or nursery, select a robust plant that's showing vigorous growth, rather than a weak plant with a beautiful picture.
Where to Plant It
Hopefully you have a planting location in mind before you bring home your new clematis. Ideally it's a sunny spot. Though some clematis cultivars will bloom in partial shade (such as Nellie Moser and Henryii), to reach their full potential they need at least six hours of sun each day.
Clematis prefer moist, well-drained soil that's neutral to slightly alkaline in pH. If your soil tends to be acidic, you should sweeten it periodically with limestone or a little wood ash. Dig a good hole for your new clematis, working in lots of compost and some granular organic fertilizer.
Be very gentle when settling the plant into its new home; the roots, crown and emerging vines of clematis can be easily broken. Position the plant slightly deeper than it was growing in the pot, so the first set of true leaves is just under the soil surface. Water weekly for the first season, to help the plant get established. If you can get your clematis through its first year, chances are good that it will continue to thrive. Mulching around the base of the plant will help conserve moisture, but keep the mulch several inches away from the crown, where the vines emerge from the soil.
Clematis are happiest with cool shade at their roots and warm sun on their foliage. Mulching around the roots will help keep the soil cool, as will the foliage of a low-growing perennial.
How to Support It
Though there are some types of clematis that have a bushy habit, most of them are born to climb. Like other climbing plants, the growing end of a clematis vine is searching for something to grab onto, and if it can't find anything, it will stop growing. Make sure you provide it with something to climb on from day one.
A clematis vine does not climb by twining around something, as a pole bean or a morning glory does. It climbs by wrapping its leaf stems around something. Because these leaf stems are not very long, anything that's more than about 1/2 inch in diameter is too wide for the leaf stem to twist around. The easiest things for a clematis to grab onto, are twine, fishing line, wire, thin branches, wooden dowels or steel rods. The more grabbing opportunities you offer, the better, so even if you have a nice trellis, consider adding some twine "helper" lines, or covering your trellis with a grid of trellis netting.
Depending on the vigor of the plant and the type of trellis you have, you'll probably need to do some "trussing" during the season to help support the vines and keep them attached to the trellis. Both fishing line and twine work well for this job.
Pruning and Care
Clematis vary in their need for pruning. Some types flower on last year's vines, so you want to avoid cutting them to the ground in the spring. Others flower on current-year vines, so they don't mind being cut to the ground each year. Rather than driving yourself crazy trying to keep track of the ideal pruning technique for each cultivar, try this common-sense approach: leave the prior year's growth in place until mid-spring. Begin pruning only when you can see which vines are dead and which ones are starting to leaf out.
A happy clematis plant puts out an amazing amount of flowers and foliage. Feed your plants well to keep them healthy and vigorous. In early spring, surround the plant with a shovelful of compost and a handful of granular organic fertilizer. Feed again, once or twice during the growing season, with a water-soluble organic fertilizer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
IF you want to grow flowers from seed, start with sweet peas. The large seeds are easy to manage and most varieties germinate readily. Plus, the resulting blooms are gorgeous and sweetly scented.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulent plants are as lovely as they are easy to grow. The best part is that its leaves and stem provide an endless number of identical plants through simple propagation. Growing succulents from clippings is both fun and rewarding. They grow quickly and with minimal effort, and the resulting plants make great gifts and lively home decor. A well-clipped leaf or stem is practically all a gardener needs to grow an entirely new succulent with success.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping
It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil
Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf
Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry
Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop
Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil
Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point.
Separate and Enjoy
Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem
When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings.
Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping
It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil
Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf
Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry
Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop
Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil
Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point.
Separate and Enjoy
Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem
When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings.
Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Aeoniums are succulent plants, meaning they hold their nutrients and water supply in their leaves. They resemble flowers with no leaves because their foliage is so ornate. Dividing and propagating Aeonium is easy, if you know what steps to take and what to use.
Determine is Division is Necessary
Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium
The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point
To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut
Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent
The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
Determine is Division is Necessary
Propagating Aeonium requires only a cutting, but when you’re both propagating and dividing an Aeonium, you will have to cut through the root as well. This is necessary when the Aeonium becomes too large for its potted or landscaped home. If it is, it’s time to divide it. If not, you can just choose to propagate a cutting in this same manner, but without cutting the root.
Take Out Aeonium
The first thing you should do is remove your Aeonium from its pot so you can take a cutting/division from it. Tip your plant on its side in its container and thump the bottom with your hand to loosen it. Then, pull the Aeonium out from its soil and shake the dirt loose.
Decide Division Point
To divide an Aeonium for propagation, pick a branch that seems to go right into the root. Begin the division at the crux of that stem and the rest of the root. Remember, you don’t want to cut through the entirety of the taproot, just the part that lines up with the rest of the stem.
Make Cut
Aeonium can handle being cut with metal if the shears or paring knife is sterilized and free of germs that can cause infection in the membranes of the plant. For this reason, you should boil your paring knife or dip it in alcohol to allow it to dry completely before using the knife on your Aeonium. Once you figure out the place where you intend to divide your Aeonium, place the sharp edge of the paring knife right at the crux of the plant, and cut down. Try to keep the cut straight. You should now have two pieces of Aeonium—one being the parent plant and one being the divided propagate.
Plant Cutting and Repot Parent
The last thing you need to do is to repot the parent plant and plant your Aeonium cutting. Do this just like propagating. Simply fill a pot with very well-drained succulent mix soil, dip the cutting and parent plant in rooting hormone and then put the Aeonium division into the mix. It’s the same for the parent plant, as well.
You can walk away from your Aeonium and check on it every few days or so to make sure it meets its environmental demands.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Grafting cacti is a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. It is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try.
Cacti are easy to propagate through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cacti is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants.
Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or Hylocereus undatus, Cereus repandus and Echinopsis spachiana.
Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cacti for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft a Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm) stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil.
Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one.
Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
Cacti are easy to propagate through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail’s pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.
Grafting Guide
Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cacti is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants.
Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species’s characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.
Rootstock Cactus
The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are: Hylocereus trigonus or Hylocereus undatus, Cereus repandus and Echinopsis spachiana.
Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cacti for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.
How to Graft a Cactus
Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm) stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches of the soil.
Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one.
Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects at the union or rot. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
One of the amazing things about succulents is how easy they are to grow. From one plant you can easily get multiple plants, making them an investment worth indulging in! Regrowing you own succulents can be quick and easy, and you don’t even need the greenest of thumbs. Take a look below at how to regrow succulents in a few easy steps, so you can enjoy multiple pots of these gorgeous plants.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Sometimes it is very easy to identify the best way to propagate a cactus or succulent, and other times it is not as obvious. However before you start, the first thing to ask yourself is: What kind of plant do I have? If you don’t know the easiest way to learn is to organize the information you know about your plant into categories. How is it shaped? Is it tall and thin, short and round, or does it have many little leaves? How does it grow? Does it grow all by itself, are there many branches, or are there similar tiny plants that poke up out of the soil near it? Does it flower?
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds
Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including:
Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce).
Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are:
Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia
Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis)
Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria
Euphorbia
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum.
Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to:
Gasteria
Haworthia, Sansevieria
Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.).
Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below:
Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus
Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra
Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus
Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti
Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana
Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus.
Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes
Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum
Tubers: Ceropegia.
Questions like these are the first ones to ask your self when considering propagation. The next thing to think about is how to propagate your cactus or succulent.
Seeds
Most cacti can be propagated by seed; however due to the slow growth of some species, sometimes other methods are more practical. Cacti with solitary growth habits are usually propagated by seed. Several species grow in this manner including:
Notocactus spp. (now included in the genus Parodia)
Neoporteria spp. (now included in the genus Eriosyce).
Stem Cuttings
Propagation by stem cuttings is easy and practical. Many cacti and succulents can be propagated by stem cuttings. In general, if the plant has an elongated stem region that is actively growing, propagation by stem cuttings should be a successful route. Some recommendations are:
Prickly Pears and Chollas: Opuntia
Columnar Cacti: Cereus, Trichocereus (now included in the genus Echinopsis)
Pincushion and Globular Cacti: Echinopsis, Mammillaria
Euphorbia
Stapeliads
Bryophyllum
Kalanchoe
Graptopetalum.
Leaf Cuttings
Most succulents are usually propagated by leaf cuttings. Genera typically propagated by leaf cuttings include but are not limited to:
Gasteria
Haworthia, Sansevieria
Crassulaceae family (Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc.).
Grafting
Grafting requires a hardy rootstock which is compatible with the desired propagation candidate. This compatibility is very important. Without it, success in grafting in unlikely. For cacti and succulents the following rules and some successful grafts have been reported and are shown below:
Rootstock: Hylocereus trigonus
Compatible scions: Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, Echinopsis chamaecereus, Gymnocalycium denudatum, Parodia leninghausii, Cereus cristata, Parodia scopa, Mammillaria theresae, Rebutia pulchra
Rootstock: Hylocereus undatus
Compatible scions: Epiphytic cacti, like Christmas Cacti, most cylindrical and globular cacti
Rootstock: Cereus repandus
Compatible scions: Melanocactus, Rebutia muscula, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii ‘Hibotan’
Rootstock:Echinopsis spachiana
Compatible scions: Cereus, Espotoa, Echinocactus, Lobivia (now included in the genus Echinopsis), Melocactus.
Bulbils, Tubers, Plantlets, and Offsets
Many succulents asexually propagate been means of underground lateral shoots. These shoots give rise to offsets or plantlets which can be severed in the spring or summer from the parent lateral shoot to produce a self-sustaining new plant. Aloe spp. and some Agave spp. form plantlets or bulbils on their flowing stalks. These plantlets and bulbils can be removed and planted as well. Kalanchoe spp. produce small plantlets on the scalloped edges of their leaves. These plantlets can also be potted in warm conditions to produce self-sustaining plants.
Bulbils and Plantlets: Kalanchoe, Aloe, Agave murpheyi, Agave vilmoriniana, Agave fourcroydes
Offsets: Echinopsis, Mammillaria, Agave, Aloe, Haworthia, Crassulaceae family, Kalanchoe, Sedum, Graptopetalum
Tubers: Ceropegia.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
You may have seem some brilliant book planters for succulents and marveled at how such a simple project can yield such beautiful results. It’s a fun, easy project that anyone can do with just a few simple tools and some supplies from a local hardware store or garden center.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies
– 1 Vintage book.
– 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.”
– Little bit of potting soil
– 1 exacto knife
– Parchment paper or plastic bag
– White glue
– Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions
1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book.
4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
If you have some old hardcover books lying around that are just aching to be filled with flora, here is a step by step lesson on how to create book planters yourself.
Supplies
– 1 Vintage book.
– 2-3 small succulents. Any more than that will get really heavy. Home Depot sells them for like $2 each. Be wary of “top-heavy” succulents as they are hard to keep leverage in such a relatively shallow pot. Even little miniature cactuses are nearly impossible to keep erect. “Wide and flatter” work MUCH better than “tall.”
– Little bit of potting soil
– 1 exacto knife
– Parchment paper or plastic bag
– White glue
– Dry moss or ground cover
Instructions
1. The night before, rub a very thin layer of white glue against the loose paper binding, just enough to make some of the pages stick. It doesn’t need to be precise. It just helps when starting to cut into the book that the pages stay in one place.
2. Cutting the square in the book is the most time-consuming part. Decide how big a square you want to have for planting. I find that the smaller patches tend to look better. I like to leave some of the text of the book visible. Using your metal ruler you will measure out your square and cut through a few pages at a time, pull them out (you will need to break the glued seal you made to get them out), and then do a few more pages, pull them out, and work your way down the book. You will need a hole that is at least 1 1/2 inches deep.
The hole does not need to be clean or pretty because the only page that will be visible is the top page, so don’t worry if it tears badly, or seems jagged. You wont be able to see any of it and its going to be filled with dirt. I also recommend you start with the page under the Title Page and save the Title Page for last. By the time the rest of the hole is made, you will have a better sense of how to make the cutout for the Title Page the most centered and clean. Remember this is the only page where the look of the cut out matters.
3. Line the hole with parchment paper or plastic. This just prevents any watering from damaging the rest of the book.
4. If your book is very, very deep, you can put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the hole. This will provide some drainage that your succulents would appreciate. Succulents don’t need much water but they do prefer to not have their roots sitting in water so the gravel provides a place for the water to drain that the roots wont touch. In a regular sized booked you wont have room for gravel. Don’t worry: the succulents will still live even without the drainage.
5. Start with the main succulent and separate it from the soil its packed in. Place it in the hole where you like. Then repack the soil around it so it can stand on its own. For the larger plants, you will need to wedge them into the corners so they stand up until they start to grow on their own. You will need to pack the soil tightly around the roots to make them stand. A little water in the soil will also help.
6. Once you have the succulents where you want, cover the soil in dry moss. You can leave the soil exposed if you like, but I think it looks nicer with the moss because that will cover the hole in the book, and the moss will also help support the plants.
7. Cut the parchment paper just below the surface of the moss so that its adequately hidden. Seeing the parchment totally ruins the illusion. Blow off any dirt that you’ve gotten in the book. There will be dirt everywhere.
8. About once a week I spray a little bit of water into the roots with a squirt bottle. Like I said, succulents need very little water but they do need a lot of sunlight so if you are keeping them inside, make sure they are by a window or put them outside as much as possible. When you water them, try to avoid getting water on the Title Page.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as Jade Plant or Money Plant, is probably the most widely grown succulent houseplant in the world. It is popular because it is very easy to grow and because it is said to bring good fortune and money. Jade Plants do make excellent houseplants, but can also grow up to 10 feet (3 m) high if planted outdoors and can even be pruned into an exotic hedge. Jade Plants have few problems in cultivation, but yellowing leaves are often an early sign that something is wrong.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti are easy-care houseplants because their feeding and watering needs are extremely low. You can largely ignore them and they still thrive. But if you’re a chronic overwaterer, cacti may be a source of endless frustration. When your cactus has clearly been overwatered, don’t fear — there is a chance you can save it. If there is no fungal or bacterial rot present, a change of neighborhoods may be enough to get your cactus back on track.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata (also known as Jade Plant) care is easy and simple. Many people enjoy growing Jade Plants in their homes and offices, and they are considered to be symbols of good luck. But you do not need to be lucky to learn what the proper care and maintenance of Jade Plants is. Keep reading to learn how to care for a Crassula ovata.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
Learning about the care and maintenance of Crassula ovata is easy. The most important factors to consider when growing jade houseplants is water, light, temperature, and fertilizer.
Growing Conditions
Light: Crassula ovata flourishes in good health with plenty of light. If you can provide a few hours of sunshine a day your going to have a happy plant.
Soil: A good draining soil mix that is gritty is advisable to use, which is sold and used for cacti and succulents.
Temperature: Room temperatures of around 60°F to 75°F (15.5°C to 24°C) are ideal. Winter no less than 50°F (10°C).
Hardiness Zones: 9b – 11a
Watering: It’s best to allow the soil to become dry between each watering which will depend on the time of year, how much humidity and amount of sunlight it’s getting. Allowing too much water to sit at the bottom of the pot with the roots will cause them to rot (avoid this).
Fertilizing: Feed each week or two (maybe less) with a weak or diluted liquid fertilizer. Fertilizer made for succulents may be your best bet, that does not need to be a high strength type.
General Care
Easy to grow in container, best in full sun but will tolerate part sun. It need well-drained soil with a neutral pH. Water regularly form spring to autumn and allow soil to dry out before watering again. During the winter months, water only enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Most common reason for failure is overwatering!
Propagation
Propagating is achieved with leaf or stem cuttings which are placed into a soil mix, then wait until they show some growth. Before placing them in soil mix you will prevent potential problems from the sap seeping out by allowing them to dry on a windowsill, for a few days or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
There are few plants more forgiving of sun and bad soil than Sedum plants. Growing them is easy, so easy, in fact, that even the most novice gardener can excel at it. With a large number of varieties to choose from, you will find one that works for your garden.
How to Grow Sedum
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone.
Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
How to Grow Sedum
When growing Sedum, keep in mind that plants need very little attention or care. They will thrive in conditions that many other plants thrive in, but will do just as well in less hospitable areas. They are ideal for that part of your yard that gets too much sun or too little water to grow anything else. A common name for Sedum is Stonecrop, due to the fact that many gardeners joke that only stones need less care and live longer.
Sedum varieties vary in height. The smallest are just a few inches tall, and the tallest can be up to 3 feet (90 cm). The large majority of varieties are shorter and they are frequently used as ground covers in xeriscape gardens or rock gardens.
Sedum varieties also vary in their hardiness. Many are hardy to USDA zone 3, while others need a warmer climate. Make sure the Sedum that you plant is suited to your hardiness zone.
Sedums need no additional water or fertilizer. Overwatering and overfertilizing can hurt the plants far worse than not watering or fertilizing.
Tips for Planting Sedums
Sedum is easily planted. For shorter varieties, simply laying the plant on the ground where you want it to grow is normally enough to get the plant started there. They will send out roots from wherever the stem is touching the ground and root itself. If you would like to further ensure that the plant will start there, you can add a very thin covering of soil over the plant.
For taller varieties, you can break off one of the stems and push it into the ground where you would like to grow it. The stem will root very easily and anew plant will be established in a season or two.
2
5
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The plants listed below are generally reliable and of easy culture, as long as you remember that no succulent plant likes to have prolonged moist soil; the potting mix should allow good drainage. Also, most succulents like quite bright light — they are not shade-loving plants. Those on this list are mostly smaller species that live amongst rocks or under other plants in nature, and therefore can tolerate somewhat lower lighting conditions.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
There are about 10,000 different types of succulent plants in nature. Hybridizers have given us another thousand or so. Most of the natural species (except for the very most common in cultivation) do not have common names. In most cases, the names appearing below refer to a genus (group of closely related species) that share similar cultivational requirements, but not all species within a genus may be equally easy to grow. There are many other plants not on this list that will be equally good for beginners.
All of these should be considered frost-tender and grown as container plants to be moved indoors during our cold months.
Cacti
Echinopsis. Mostly small, globular South American cacti, often with large white flowers, but other colors occur. There is a large number of named hybrids with spectacular flowers in a rainbow of colors. If dry, most can take light frost. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Lobivia.
Ferocactus. This is a genus of plants commonly called Barrel Cacti, from the southwest United States and Mexico. They have well developed and beautiful spines, often colored red or yellow (such as the Golden Barrel). Many tend to get fairly big, but they grow slowly. Ferocactus generally grow in full direct sun so can be placed outside in full sun for the summer and should be kept in the brightest possible location indoors during the cold season, with reduced watering to reduce growth.
Gymnocalycium. Another group of small globular South American cacti with interesting spines and white to pastel flowers usually willingly produced.
Rhipsalis. This is a very different looking group of true cacti native to the rainforests of the Americas where they live as epiphytes within the forest canopy. They are very slender stemmed, and pendant, making good hanging baskets in areas of lower light. They are very frost tender. Many are totally spineless or nearly so and the flowers are very tiny and not showy. These make good accent plants for shady patios or hanging from trees during the summer months.
Mammillaria. A large group of popular plants from the American Southwest into southern Mexico. Most are fairly small and quite spiny. Many flower freely in cultivation. Most cluster in time.
Parodia. Another popular group of smaller species from South America, many with beautiful flowers of various colors. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Notocactus.
Rebutia. Yet another very popular group of quite small globular cacti, many of which cluster freely. Many of these will live for several years in a 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pot. Spination is quite variable – some have soft fuzzy “fur”; others have very tiny spines; others have more typical spines. They originate from the high Andes mountains of Bolivia and Argentina, often living under other vegetation. Flower colors range from white to pink to lilac to deep red, and yellow to deep orange. They should be provided with a cool, dry winter rest to promote best flowering. One subgroup is sometimes treated as the separate genus Sulcorebutia.
Other Succulents
Adenium. This is a small group of leafy stem succulents from Africa and Arabia. They are sometimes called Desert Rose. They have two main appeals: they have very thickened, sculptural appealing succulent stems and they produce an abundance of flowers that range from pink to bright red, often with contrasting yellow and white stripes or markings. In nature some grow to the size of small trees but they can be kept in pots for a very long time; they lend themselves to bonsai culture. Both here in the United States and also in Asia there has been much hybridization resulting in an amazing array of flower colors and shapes. They tend to be susceptible to spider mites when grown indoors, but can be forced into a state of leafless dormancy by greatly reducing watering while they are indoors in the winter.
Agave. Sometimes called Century Plants, these are native to the American Southwest, Mexico, and the Caribbean. They are rosette-forming plants, and the leaves are often armored with spines along the edges and at the tip. Many form giant plants many feet across, but others can stay nicely in a 5-10 inches (12-20 cm) pot for many years. They are mostly grown for the decorative plant architecture (leaf color and spination). It takes many years for them to bloom (though not a century!) and when they bloom the plant dies. Many popular forms have variegated leaves with linear stripes of white or yellow. They prefer full sun in the summer and a bright location when indoors.
Aloe. Another genus of rosette-forming succulents, these from Africa and Arabia. There are hundreds of species, ranging in size from huge trees to tiny dwarfs that will live happily for years in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots. They are a very popular subject for hybridizers who have developed wonderfully colored, patterned and toothed foliage. Most all of the smaller species also bloom easily, with stalked clusters of tubular flowers mostly red, pink, orange, or yellow.
Crassula. A large genus of African succulents that includes the popular Jade Plant. Many species are very tiny dwarfs, but these prefer very bright conditions to maintain their attractive compact form and interesting leaf colors.
Echeveria. This is a popular group of Mexican succulents. The leaves are colorful and sometimes with unusual shapes and many flower successfully under our conditions. In low light they can become rather floppy and lose their interesting coloration.
Euphorbia. This is a huge genus of plants that includes our common garden spurges. A few of the succulent species occur in the New World, but most commonly come from the Old World, primarily Africa. They vary greatly in body form and many look amazingly like true cacti. Others look more shrubby and some are quite leafy, such as the common “Crown of Thorns” (Euphorbia milii) which comes from Madagascar.
Gasteria. This is a small genus from South Africa related to Aloe and has been used as a parent in hybridization between the two genera. All the plants stay small and lend themselves to container culture. They also tend to tolerate lower light conditions. They flower readily with spikes of pinkish flowers.
Haworthia. Another South African genus related to Aloe, and with many forms. Unfortunately, the taxonomy of the genus is very difficult and in some cases the same plants can be found under numerous names. They all stay as quite small rosettes; most cluster but some do not. Some of the smaller ones can live for years in a 3 inches (8 cm) pot. Those that have numerous slender leaves do very well with our short dreary days of winter but the more compact types with relatively few highly succulent leaves tend to stretch a bit in winter and therefore should be kept quite dry to reduce this tendency. Many have very nice leaf markings and interesting color patterns that come out best when in full sun. Most flower easily, though the flowers, which are borne on thin elongate stalks, are rather small, white and amazingly similar between species. This is a very popular group.
Hoya. These are mostly hanging or vining species originating from southern Asia, through the islands of the Pacific southward to New Guinea and Australia. Hoya carnosa is often referred to as the wax vine as the flowers, which occur in large cluster, appear sculpted from wax. This species has several named cultivars, the very twisted Hindu rope being one. As forest species that can handle lower light conditions and some are popular houseplants.
Portulacaria. This is a small genus mostly from southern Africa. One species, Portulacaria afra, is very commonly cultivated. It somewhat appears like a smaller Jade Plant, but with thinner stems and smaller leaves. It branches profusely and can be pruned and shaped into a bonsai appearance. There is also a form with variegated leaves.
Sansevieria. These plants originate from Africa to southern Asia. Many are grown as houseplants such as the very common Sansevieria trifasciata which can be seen in most shopping malls and doctors’ offices throughout the country. This species and other thin-leafed species can tolerate low light and much neglect. There are other, more interesting and highly succulent species that require higher light levels. The send out spikes of white, often pleasantly-fragranced flowers.
Zamioculcas. There is only one species in this genus, with the catchy name of Zamioculcas zamiifolia (therefore sometimes called the ZZ plant). From an underground tuber it produces quite large compound leaves with thick succulent leaf midribs and numerous dark green glossy leaflets. It can tolerate low light conditions and significant neglect though the leaves will wither and die if kept without water too long. It is from Kenya southward in eastern Africa. Even though succulent, it looks a bit more like a tropical houseplant.
In addition to the genera discussed above, there are two other groups that are worthy of mention. These are larger groups, with multiple genera, but which can be considered somewhat together.
“Mesembs”. These are members of the plant family Aizoaceae (subfamily Mesembryanthemaceae). This is a very large family (2000 species) and all are succulent. Most are from southern Africa. They all have highly succulent leaves but they range in form from dense woody shrubs to tiny highly succulent clumps. They all produce colorful flowers that resemble small daisies. One of the most popular genera is Lithops; these plants are sometimes called “Split Rocks” as the single pair of highly succulent leaves looks like a round pebble broken in half. Other popular genera of dwarf, highly succulent species include Aloinopsis (including Nananthus), Argyroderma, Cheiridopsis, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, Fenestraria (“Baby Toes”), Pleiospilos, and Titanopsis. The species vary in their reliability under cultivation. All are highly succulent and prone to rot if overwatered. Some are winter growers and therefore lose their compact form under the low light conditions of our winters. If you are interested in this group, give them as much light as possible year-round and be very careful with watering. And then assume that you will occasionally lose one anyway!
“Stapeliads”. These plants belong to the Milkweed family. In the dry areas of the Old World this group of plants has evolved to be highly succulent. Virtually all are leafless. The stems are thick and fleshy and photosynthetic, and come in a variety of colors, shapes, and armature. Some species get quite large but many will happily stay in 3-5 inches (8-13 cm) pots for years. The attraction of this group is the star-shaped flowers that range in size from under a half inch to over 8 inches (20 cm) across. The flowers are very fleshy and come in a variety of colors from yellow to purple and usually have interesting markings. Many are pollinated by flies attracted to the fragrance of these flowers, which can be of the potency of a decaying buffalo (hence the name “Carrion Flower” given to some species). Some of the more commonly cultivated genera include Caralluma, Huernia, Orbea, Orbeopsis, Piaranthus, Stapelia, and Stapeliopsis, but there are many others equally interesting. Stapelia gigantea (named for the large flowers) is probably the most widely grown species in the group and can be found happily growing and flowering in bright windowsills throughout the world. These should all be given good light throughout the year and watered carefully or they may succumb to rot. Stem segments root easily and it is wise to always have a couple new ones coming along … just in case. They are also highly susceptible to mealybugs.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Parodia genus includes a multitude of showy and easy-to-grow small ball cacti. After a reorganization of the genus, the Parodia genus now includes plants that were formerly known as Notocactus, Eriocactus, and Brasilicactus. Parodia are native to central South America, where they enjoy somewhat more moisture than most people associate with cacti. They are also not full-sun plants, but especially during the summer months of strong sun they appreciate some daytime shade.
Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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