文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Stink bugs are attractive and distinctive insects that are generally easy to identify. Ranging in size from 1/4 to 1 inch long and about half as broad, they are shield-shaped with a triangle-like horny scale on their back. Also, as the name indicates, many stink bugs do produce an offensive odor when disturbed. The most common pest species are green, brown, gray, or yellow and some have red or yellow markings. Their host plants include blackberry, cabbage and other members of the mustard family, corn, tomato, eggplant, bean, soybean, and trees such as apple, peach, pecan, and cherry. Stink bugs may also be found on ornamental plants including columbine, snapdragon, and sunflower. The harlequin bug, Murgantia histrionica, a red and black-spotted species of stink bug, is an important pest of crops in the mustard family in the southern United States. The green stink bug, Acrosternum hilare, and brown stink bugs, Euschistus spp., can be of economic importance in soybean fields primarily by reducing seed quality and quantity. A few species of stink bugs are predatory on other insects.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
In the "true bug" group, stink bugs feed by inserting their mouth parts into the leaves, flowers, buds, fruit, and seeds of host plants and sucking plant sap. Large infestations of stink bugs may cause plants, especially small plants and young tender growth, to wilt, become stunted and misshapen, or die. Other damage includes yellow or white blotches on leaves; misshapen or aborted fruits, seeds, and buds; calluses, blemishes or depressions; and black pits on nuts. Tomatoes exhibit pale yellow spots and a white pithy area just under the skin at the puncture site. Peaches and other fruits may develop scarring and dimpling resulting in cat-facing or a pitted appearance. The seeds in soybean pods may be deformed, small, discolored, or shriveled.
Life Cycle
The stink bug overwinters as an adult in protected areas such as under dead weeds, leaf litter, or the bark of trees. In early summer, the female lays clusters of eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs are barrel or keg-shaped with a circular lid. In one to three weeks, the young hatch into wingless nymphs that resemble small adult stink bugs, although the coloration may differ from that of the adult. The nymphs will molt several times before developing wings and becoming an adult. The number of generations per year depends on the species.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Sanitation. Control weeds in susceptible crops and in areas adjacent to gardens to decrease breeding and overwintering habitat. It is important to remove weeds early in the growing season before stink bug populations increase or the loss of habitat may force pests to move into the garden.
2. Collect insects. Hand pick and destroy eggs and bugs.
3. Use natural controls. Encourage other natural predators such as parasitic wasps and flies by growing small-flowered plants. The unpleasant odor produced by stink bugs deters many predators but several bird species do consume these pests.
4. Use trap crops. Plant trap crops of mustard and treat that area with an appropriate pesticide.
5. Use insecticides. If damage is severe, use insecticidal soap, sabadilla, pyrethrin or permethrin (Eight).
Symptoms and Diagnosis
In the "true bug" group, stink bugs feed by inserting their mouth parts into the leaves, flowers, buds, fruit, and seeds of host plants and sucking plant sap. Large infestations of stink bugs may cause plants, especially small plants and young tender growth, to wilt, become stunted and misshapen, or die. Other damage includes yellow or white blotches on leaves; misshapen or aborted fruits, seeds, and buds; calluses, blemishes or depressions; and black pits on nuts. Tomatoes exhibit pale yellow spots and a white pithy area just under the skin at the puncture site. Peaches and other fruits may develop scarring and dimpling resulting in cat-facing or a pitted appearance. The seeds in soybean pods may be deformed, small, discolored, or shriveled.
Life Cycle
The stink bug overwinters as an adult in protected areas such as under dead weeds, leaf litter, or the bark of trees. In early summer, the female lays clusters of eggs on the underside of leaves. These eggs are barrel or keg-shaped with a circular lid. In one to three weeks, the young hatch into wingless nymphs that resemble small adult stink bugs, although the coloration may differ from that of the adult. The nymphs will molt several times before developing wings and becoming an adult. The number of generations per year depends on the species.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Sanitation. Control weeds in susceptible crops and in areas adjacent to gardens to decrease breeding and overwintering habitat. It is important to remove weeds early in the growing season before stink bug populations increase or the loss of habitat may force pests to move into the garden.
2. Collect insects. Hand pick and destroy eggs and bugs.
3. Use natural controls. Encourage other natural predators such as parasitic wasps and flies by growing small-flowered plants. The unpleasant odor produced by stink bugs deters many predators but several bird species do consume these pests.
4. Use trap crops. Plant trap crops of mustard and treat that area with an appropriate pesticide.
5. Use insecticides. If damage is severe, use insecticidal soap, sabadilla, pyrethrin or permethrin (Eight).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
If the shoots tips of rosemary and lavender are turning brown and dying back it could be the sign of an infestation of rosemary leaf beetle. These small beetles feed on the new shoot tips causing them to die back. They're easy to spot because they have metallic green and purple stripes across their backs. Their larvae, which are slug-like and pale grey in colour with a dark stripe down the side, also cause damage by feeding on the shoots as they grow.
Plants affected
Rosemary leaf beetles only feed on a small number of plant species which includes rosemary, lavender, sage and thyme.
About Rosemary leaf beetle
These attractive leaf beetles are an invasive species that first appeared in the UK in 1994.
Since their introduction, they've been spreading steadily throughout the southern counties of England.
The adult beetles are around 1cm long with metallic green and purple stripes down their wing cases.
They're usually found in groups on stems, or feeding on the new growth of plants.
The larvae are small slug-like grubs which are usually found on the underside of leaves. They are light grey with horizontal dark stripes along their body.
Adult beetles are usually first seen in late spring, although they remain largely stationary on plants until later in the year.
In late summer they'll begin to mate and lay eggs.
Eggs are usually laid on the underside of leaves and are around 2mm in length.
Larvae will hatch in about ten day's time and feed for a few weeks before dropping down to pupate below the soil surface.
Adults may continue to mate during warmer winter periods, although this is rare.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Rosemary leaf beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regular observation in late spring each year is essential to prevent infestations establishing.
Removing adults and larvae by hand will help to reduce numbers. Shaking infested bushes over an old towel or sheet will enable large infestations to be collected and removed.
Netting and fleeces can be used to stop adults moving between plants.
There are currently no natural enemies commercially available to control rosemary leaf beetle.
Prevention
Check plants on a weekly basis for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging feeders in the winter and provide nesting boxes in the spring.
Plants affected
Rosemary leaf beetles only feed on a small number of plant species which includes rosemary, lavender, sage and thyme.
About Rosemary leaf beetle
These attractive leaf beetles are an invasive species that first appeared in the UK in 1994.
Since their introduction, they've been spreading steadily throughout the southern counties of England.
The adult beetles are around 1cm long with metallic green and purple stripes down their wing cases.
They're usually found in groups on stems, or feeding on the new growth of plants.
The larvae are small slug-like grubs which are usually found on the underside of leaves. They are light grey with horizontal dark stripes along their body.
Adult beetles are usually first seen in late spring, although they remain largely stationary on plants until later in the year.
In late summer they'll begin to mate and lay eggs.
Eggs are usually laid on the underside of leaves and are around 2mm in length.
Larvae will hatch in about ten day's time and feed for a few weeks before dropping down to pupate below the soil surface.
Adults may continue to mate during warmer winter periods, although this is rare.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Rosemary leaf beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Regular observation in late spring each year is essential to prevent infestations establishing.
Removing adults and larvae by hand will help to reduce numbers. Shaking infested bushes over an old towel or sheet will enable large infestations to be collected and removed.
Netting and fleeces can be used to stop adults moving between plants.
There are currently no natural enemies commercially available to control rosemary leaf beetle.
Prevention
Check plants on a weekly basis for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insectivorous birds by hanging feeders in the winter and provide nesting boxes in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
These bright red beetles are very distinctive and therefore quite easy to spot on affected plants. Also, look for holes in leaves, stems and flowers, left by the small slimy black larvae.
Plants affected
They're highly destructive to lilies (Lilium), and fritillaries (Fritillaria).
About Scarlet lily beetle
These bright red beetles, with distinctive black legs and antennae, are an invasive species which was first recorded in the UK during the 1940s.
They're also known as red lily beetles and are now commonly found across the south-east of England, and have recently been reported in parts of Scotland, Wales and Ireland.
When disturbed, adults emit a high pitch squeak, perhaps as a warning to other beetles.
Adults overwinter in the soil and emerge in late-March to early April.
Adults will continue to mate and feed from spring until autumn.
After mating, females will lay small groups of bright orange eggs on the underside of leaves.
Larvae hatch a few days later as red or orange-coloured grubs with black heads and three pairs of legs on their upper body.
As they feed, the larvae cover themselves in their own sticky black excrement.
Lily beetle larvae are usually found on the underside of leaves where they feed from the tip and work back to the stem.
Any larvae which survive to become adults will drop to the soil in late autumn to overwinter, and emerge again the next spring.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Scarlet lily beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants carefully in early spring and remove any adults and larvae by hand to prevent infestations becoming established.
Use netting and fleece to contain the pests and stop adults moving between plants.
Replant pot-grown lilies and fritillarias using fresh compost in early spring before the overwintering adult beetles emerge from the soil.
There are no biological controls commercially available, although a range of native parasites and predators will feed on both adult and larval stages. So encourage these by establishing a natural balance of wildlife in your garden and avoid using chemicals.
Prevention
Check plants regularly for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insect-eating birds by putting up feeders in winter and provide nesting boxes in spring.
Plants affected
They're highly destructive to lilies (Lilium), and fritillaries (Fritillaria).
About Scarlet lily beetle
These bright red beetles, with distinctive black legs and antennae, are an invasive species which was first recorded in the UK during the 1940s.
They're also known as red lily beetles and are now commonly found across the south-east of England, and have recently been reported in parts of Scotland, Wales and Ireland.
When disturbed, adults emit a high pitch squeak, perhaps as a warning to other beetles.
Adults overwinter in the soil and emerge in late-March to early April.
Adults will continue to mate and feed from spring until autumn.
After mating, females will lay small groups of bright orange eggs on the underside of leaves.
Larvae hatch a few days later as red or orange-coloured grubs with black heads and three pairs of legs on their upper body.
As they feed, the larvae cover themselves in their own sticky black excrement.
Lily beetle larvae are usually found on the underside of leaves where they feed from the tip and work back to the stem.
Any larvae which survive to become adults will drop to the soil in late autumn to overwinter, and emerge again the next spring.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Scarlet lily beetle
Pyrethrum
Natural fatty acids
Surfactant-based products
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Inspect plants carefully in early spring and remove any adults and larvae by hand to prevent infestations becoming established.
Use netting and fleece to contain the pests and stop adults moving between plants.
Replant pot-grown lilies and fritillarias using fresh compost in early spring before the overwintering adult beetles emerge from the soil.
There are no biological controls commercially available, although a range of native parasites and predators will feed on both adult and larval stages. So encourage these by establishing a natural balance of wildlife in your garden and avoid using chemicals.
Prevention
Check plants regularly for signs of infestation and deal with them as soon as they appear.
Encourage insect-eating birds by putting up feeders in winter and provide nesting boxes in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Slugs and snails feed at night and are easy to spot. They leave behind unmistakeable silvery slime trails and decimated young plants, leaves and flower buds. During the day they tend to gravitate to dark, moist areas of the garden and greenhouse, or hide on the undersides of large leaves and under pots.
Plants affected
They feed on a wide range of plants and cause severe damage as they rasp or chew away on leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, tubers, buds, flowers and fruit with their toothed tongue.
About Slugs/Snails
Slugs and snails are collectively known as garden molluscs.
Slugs and snails have many similarities since slugs have actually evolved from snails. Their external shell has been replaced by an internal plate that protects their lungs.
Both are soft-bodied and move using a large muscular foot that slides over a slimy secretion.
They have two pairs of tentacles, the lower for smelling and the upper for seeing.
Noted for elaborate courtship and mating rituals, they can lay up to 500 eggs during adulthood. Snails can often be seen joined together whilst mating.
The field slug, Deroceras reticulatum, this is generally the most damaging slug. It's 3cm to 4cm in length and can be various colours from grey to fawn. It feeds mainly above ground.
The garden slug, Arion hortensis, a dark grey to black slug, up to 4cm long. It feeds above and below ground.
Keeled slugs, Milax spp, there are many different species, all are dark grey, brown or black and up to 10cm long and with a distinct ridge or keel running down the back. They live in soil but also feed above ground.
Common snail, Helix aspersa, these have a grey-brown shell with darker bands. They are often found near walls, in rockeries and in overgrown herbaceous borders. Snails can live for several years, hibernating in clusters, in dry holes in walls and so on.
Round-backed black or brown slugs, Arion ater, these feed on rotting vegetation and therefore don't require controlling.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Slugs/Snails
Metaldehyde
Methiocarb
Copper sulphate
Ferrous phosphate
Aluminium sulphate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Attract slugs and snails by leaving out decaying organic matter, such as lettuce leaves or grapefruit skins. Inspect these after dark then collect and kill molluscs by dropping them into a bucket of salty water.
Use copper rings around the base of susceptible plants - these repel molluscs by generating a small electric current.
Sink shallow dishes (or purpose-built slug and snail traps) filled with beer to soil level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the beer, become intoxicated and drown.
Sprinkle ashes, soot, sharp sand, crushed nut or eggshells around plants to provide a physical barrier that slugs and snails don't like to cross.
You can buy live nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, commercially. Drench infested areas with this tiny worm which burrows into the body of the slug and infects it with bacteria which kill it. These nematodes aren't effective against snails.
Grow plants with rough or hairy leaves which are less palatable or use some young plants as sacrificial specimens in order to discourage the slugs and snails from your favourites.
Products containing Ferrous phosphate are acceptable for Organic gardeners as they do not harm other wildlife or contaminate the soil.
Prevention
Cultivate growing areas frequently to expose eggs, young and adults to predators such as birds, frogs and hedgehogs.
Limit the use of organic composts and mulches around plants, because they're particularly attractive to slugs.
Remove objects from growing areas that molluscs can use as daytime refuges, such as logs and large stones.
Encourage natural enemies such as beetles and centipedes by providing overwintering refuges in the autumn.
Check your flower beds, pots and lawns at night using a torch and collect the slugs and snails that will be searching around for food.
Plants affected
They feed on a wide range of plants and cause severe damage as they rasp or chew away on leaves, stems, roots, bulbs, tubers, buds, flowers and fruit with their toothed tongue.
About Slugs/Snails
Slugs and snails are collectively known as garden molluscs.
Slugs and snails have many similarities since slugs have actually evolved from snails. Their external shell has been replaced by an internal plate that protects their lungs.
Both are soft-bodied and move using a large muscular foot that slides over a slimy secretion.
They have two pairs of tentacles, the lower for smelling and the upper for seeing.
Noted for elaborate courtship and mating rituals, they can lay up to 500 eggs during adulthood. Snails can often be seen joined together whilst mating.
The field slug, Deroceras reticulatum, this is generally the most damaging slug. It's 3cm to 4cm in length and can be various colours from grey to fawn. It feeds mainly above ground.
The garden slug, Arion hortensis, a dark grey to black slug, up to 4cm long. It feeds above and below ground.
Keeled slugs, Milax spp, there are many different species, all are dark grey, brown or black and up to 10cm long and with a distinct ridge or keel running down the back. They live in soil but also feed above ground.
Common snail, Helix aspersa, these have a grey-brown shell with darker bands. They are often found near walls, in rockeries and in overgrown herbaceous borders. Snails can live for several years, hibernating in clusters, in dry holes in walls and so on.
Round-backed black or brown slugs, Arion ater, these feed on rotting vegetation and therefore don't require controlling.
Treatment
Chemical
Products containing the following chemical ingredients are all effective on Slugs/Snails
Metaldehyde
Methiocarb
Copper sulphate
Ferrous phosphate
Aluminium sulphate
Note: It is important to read manufacturer's instructions for use and the associated safety data information before applying chemical treatments.
Organic
Attract slugs and snails by leaving out decaying organic matter, such as lettuce leaves or grapefruit skins. Inspect these after dark then collect and kill molluscs by dropping them into a bucket of salty water.
Use copper rings around the base of susceptible plants - these repel molluscs by generating a small electric current.
Sink shallow dishes (or purpose-built slug and snail traps) filled with beer to soil level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the beer, become intoxicated and drown.
Sprinkle ashes, soot, sharp sand, crushed nut or eggshells around plants to provide a physical barrier that slugs and snails don't like to cross.
You can buy live nematodes, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, commercially. Drench infested areas with this tiny worm which burrows into the body of the slug and infects it with bacteria which kill it. These nematodes aren't effective against snails.
Grow plants with rough or hairy leaves which are less palatable or use some young plants as sacrificial specimens in order to discourage the slugs and snails from your favourites.
Products containing Ferrous phosphate are acceptable for Organic gardeners as they do not harm other wildlife or contaminate the soil.
Prevention
Cultivate growing areas frequently to expose eggs, young and adults to predators such as birds, frogs and hedgehogs.
Limit the use of organic composts and mulches around plants, because they're particularly attractive to slugs.
Remove objects from growing areas that molluscs can use as daytime refuges, such as logs and large stones.
Encourage natural enemies such as beetles and centipedes by providing overwintering refuges in the autumn.
Check your flower beds, pots and lawns at night using a torch and collect the slugs and snails that will be searching around for food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月15日
Damage from leaf miner larvae — the tunnels or mines that scroll across leaves — is easy to spot. The leafminer parasite (Diglyphus isaea) is a small, black, non-stinging wasp that searches out leaf miners on which to lay its egg. The wasp kills the leaf miner as it lays its egg, and the emerging larvae use the dead miner as food. The adult parasite exits the tunnel sometime later and will then go on to lay 200 – 300 eggs during its nearly month-long life. While destructive leaf miners often survive pesticide treatments because they are protected inside the tunnels, they cannot escape the parasite, which raps its antennae on the mine to locate the miner. Leaves with short or dead-ended mines often indicate the presence of D. isaea.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including leaf-miner parasites, at Planet Natural. One bottle — 500 adults — treats up to 20,000 square feet and costs $234.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
HOW TO RELEASE:
Make introductions when leaf miner infection increases.
Apply in the morning or evening between the leaves on plants.
Each 100 ml bottle (500 adults) will treat 5,000-20,000 square feet, depending on pest levels.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including leaf-miner parasites, at Planet Natural. One bottle — 500 adults — treats up to 20,000 square feet and costs $234.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
HOW TO RELEASE:
Make introductions when leaf miner infection increases.
Apply in the morning or evening between the leaves on plants.
Each 100 ml bottle (500 adults) will treat 5,000-20,000 square feet, depending on pest levels.
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文章
stone
2017年09月12日
有花友问起#花韭 怎么种植，只要有阳光，种植难度就So Easy了，花韭叶片扁平、气味，都和韭菜差不多，春季开花，从3月开始开花，一直开到6月，夏季休眠。
花韭种植需有日照，避免徒长，环境以温暖避风处最佳，日常浇水适量，不宜太干，介质有一点湿度即可，夏季叶枯可挖出球根放通风干燥处储藏，待秋凉再种植，很容易种植的花卉。冬季尽量少浇水，最好放室外(花韭耐寒)，要经过一段冷冻期，花儿才开得多。
有花友友问花韭什么时候种栽植，一般来说是秋冬季，球根种植深度约球的一倍深度即可。
花韭和韭兰的区别
花韭和韭兰的花很相似，区别在于花韭的花是春天开，韭兰的花是夏秋开。另外，花韭真的是韭菜味道，韭兰则只是形似韭菜，但是没有韭菜味道，只有少数夜开型或杂交品种具有明显且浓烈的香气。从外型上看，花韭花小，植株也小，葱兰、韭兰花大，植株也大。
花韭种植需有日照，避免徒长，环境以温暖避风处最佳，日常浇水适量，不宜太干，介质有一点湿度即可，夏季叶枯可挖出球根放通风干燥处储藏，待秋凉再种植，很容易种植的花卉。冬季尽量少浇水，最好放室外(花韭耐寒)，要经过一段冷冻期，花儿才开得多。
有花友友问花韭什么时候种栽植，一般来说是秋冬季，球根种植深度约球的一倍深度即可。
花韭和韭兰的区别
花韭和韭兰的花很相似，区别在于花韭的花是春天开，韭兰的花是夏秋开。另外，花韭真的是韭菜味道，韭兰则只是形似韭菜，但是没有韭菜味道，只有少数夜开型或杂交品种具有明显且浓烈的香气。从外型上看，花韭花小，植株也小，葱兰、韭兰花大，植株也大。
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Red buckeye trees are relatively easy to care for, medium sized trees or shrubs that produce showy red flowers in the spring. They are a great choice for large, easy decoration along borders. Keep reading to learn more about red buckeye tree care and red buckeye tree growth.
Red Buckeye Tree Growth
What is a red buckeye tree? Red buckeye trees (Aesculus pavia) are North American natives from southern Missouri. They grow in USDA zones 4 through 8. For several weeks in the spring the trees produce bright red panicles of tube-shaped flowers. The flowers have no real scent, but they are striking in color and very attractive to hummingbirds.
Once the flowers fade, they are replaced by dry, round, orange fruits. These fruits are toxic to both animals and humans. Keep this in mind when choosing a planting location. The trees produce a lot of fruit, and when it drops it can be a nuisance to clean up and a real danger to pets and children. Red buckeye trees are deciduous, but their leaves aren’t showy in the fall. They barely change color and drop relatively early.
Red Buckeye Tree Care
Planting a red buckeye tree is relatively easy. The trees can be grown very successfully from seed and should bloom within three years. Red buckeye tree growth is best in rich soil that is well drained but moist. The trees do not handle drought well. They will grow in both shade and sun, but they’ll stay smaller and won’t fill out as nicely in the shade. In sun, the trees tend to grow between 15 and 20 feet in height, though they will sometimes reach as high as 35 feet.
Red Buckeye Tree Growth
What is a red buckeye tree? Red buckeye trees (Aesculus pavia) are North American natives from southern Missouri. They grow in USDA zones 4 through 8. For several weeks in the spring the trees produce bright red panicles of tube-shaped flowers. The flowers have no real scent, but they are striking in color and very attractive to hummingbirds.
Once the flowers fade, they are replaced by dry, round, orange fruits. These fruits are toxic to both animals and humans. Keep this in mind when choosing a planting location. The trees produce a lot of fruit, and when it drops it can be a nuisance to clean up and a real danger to pets and children. Red buckeye trees are deciduous, but their leaves aren’t showy in the fall. They barely change color and drop relatively early.
Red Buckeye Tree Care
Planting a red buckeye tree is relatively easy. The trees can be grown very successfully from seed and should bloom within three years. Red buckeye tree growth is best in rich soil that is well drained but moist. The trees do not handle drought well. They will grow in both shade and sun, but they’ll stay smaller and won’t fill out as nicely in the shade. In sun, the trees tend to grow between 15 and 20 feet in height, though they will sometimes reach as high as 35 feet.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Also known as curly willow or tortured willow, corkscrew willow (Salix matsudana ‘Tortusa’) is easy to identify by its long, graceful leaves and curly, contorted branches, which become especially noticeable during the winter. Unfortunately, although corkscrew willow is a fast-growing tree, it isn’t long lived and tends to be susceptible to breakage and insect problems. In spite of its downfalls, growing a curly willow tree is a worthy endeavor, and with proper care, you’ll enjoy this fascinating tree for several years. Keep reading and learn more about how to grow corkscrew willow trees.
Curly Willow Growing Conditions
Before growing this tree, you should know where to plant curly willow. Corkscrew willow is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. The tree develops a short root system that remains near the surface of the soil, so it should be planted a safe distance from buildings, driveways, sidewalks and sewer lines. Plant curly willow anytime during spring or summer. Curly willow isn’t fussy about soil and adapts to clay, loam or sand. Similarly, it tolerates either sun or partial shade. However, ideal conditions for this tree are well-drained, moist soil and full sunlight.
Corkscrew Willow Care
For the most part, corkscrew willow care is minimal, but the tree likes moisture. Water regularly during the first year, then water generously during periods of hot, dry weather. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist, helps keep weeds in check, and protect the trunk from damage by weed trimmers and lawnmowers. However, leave a few inches of bare ground around the base of the tree, as mulch that piles up against the trunk can attract a variety of pests. Corkscrew willow generally requires no fertilizer, but if growth appears weak, you can apply a cup of balanced dry fertilizer around the tree every spring, then water deeply. If your tree is near a fertilized lawn, it probably already receives adequate nutrients.
Prune corkscrew willow regularly to allow air and sunlight to enter the center of the tree, as a healthier tree free of damaged or dead branches is less prone to insect damage. However, problems to watch for include pests such as aphids, borers, gypsy moths and willow beetles. The tree is relatively disease-resistant, although it is susceptible to powdery mildew and leaf spot. The diseases tend to be relatively mild and usually don’t require treatment.
Curly Willow Growing Conditions
Before growing this tree, you should know where to plant curly willow. Corkscrew willow is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. The tree develops a short root system that remains near the surface of the soil, so it should be planted a safe distance from buildings, driveways, sidewalks and sewer lines. Plant curly willow anytime during spring or summer. Curly willow isn’t fussy about soil and adapts to clay, loam or sand. Similarly, it tolerates either sun or partial shade. However, ideal conditions for this tree are well-drained, moist soil and full sunlight.
Corkscrew Willow Care
For the most part, corkscrew willow care is minimal, but the tree likes moisture. Water regularly during the first year, then water generously during periods of hot, dry weather. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist, helps keep weeds in check, and protect the trunk from damage by weed trimmers and lawnmowers. However, leave a few inches of bare ground around the base of the tree, as mulch that piles up against the trunk can attract a variety of pests. Corkscrew willow generally requires no fertilizer, but if growth appears weak, you can apply a cup of balanced dry fertilizer around the tree every spring, then water deeply. If your tree is near a fertilized lawn, it probably already receives adequate nutrients.
Prune corkscrew willow regularly to allow air and sunlight to enter the center of the tree, as a healthier tree free of damaged or dead branches is less prone to insect damage. However, problems to watch for include pests such as aphids, borers, gypsy moths and willow beetles. The tree is relatively disease-resistant, although it is susceptible to powdery mildew and leaf spot. The diseases tend to be relatively mild and usually don’t require treatment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Norway spruce (Picea abies) is a tough conifer that makes for an easy-care landscape tree in US Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7. It is also planted extensively for forest restoration and windbreaks. Planting a Norway spruce is easy because it competes well with grass and weeds and requires no site preparation. Read on for more information about care of Norway spruce trees.
Norway Spruce Tree Info
The Norway spruce tree is native to Europe. However, for over a century it has been planted in this country for both ornamental and utilitarian purposes. The tree roots are strong and the trees can withstand high winds, making them excellent windbreaks. The trees bear stiff evergreen needles up to an inch long, colored a shiny forest green. The bark is a red-brown and furrowed. The seed cones are large, and can grow 6 inches long. They mature in fall.
Norway Spruce Growth
Norway spruce growth is exceptional. The trees grow relatively fast – up to 2 feet a year – and their crowns develop a pyramid shape. The branches may drupe slightly at the tips, giving the trees a graceful allure. If you are thinking of planting a Norway spruce tree, it is important to understand that the tree can reach 100 feet or more in the wild and live for centuries. Although the tree stays shorter when cultivated, homeowners often underestimate the space the tree takes when mature.
Planting a Norway Spruce Tree
The more Norway spruce tree info you have, the more you will see that planting a Norway spruce tree is a good idea. The tree has many good attributes. First, you won’t need to clear out grasses or work the land to prepare a site for planting a Norway spruce tree. This spruce competes against grasses and weeds, and wins. In addition, the tree is drought tolerant. As a conifer, it can go into shut-down mode when irrigation is lacking. At the same time, it is one evergreen that tolerates wet soil. Plant it in marshy soil and it will thrive. You can plant Norway spruce in sun, shade or partial shade and it grows just the same. It is tolerant of poor soil but also grows in rich, fertile soils. Pest resistant, the trees hardly ever fall victim to insect damage or disease. Deer and rodents leave Norway spruce alone.
Care of Norway Spruce Trees
Required Norway spruce care is minimal. If you plant the tree with sufficient elbow room, you may not have to lift a finger other than providing an occasional drink during dry periods. Unlike many trees, the Norway spruce does not produce suckers. Because of this, the tree is not invasive. Digging out suckers is not part of Norway spruce care.
Norway Spruce Tree Info
The Norway spruce tree is native to Europe. However, for over a century it has been planted in this country for both ornamental and utilitarian purposes. The tree roots are strong and the trees can withstand high winds, making them excellent windbreaks. The trees bear stiff evergreen needles up to an inch long, colored a shiny forest green. The bark is a red-brown and furrowed. The seed cones are large, and can grow 6 inches long. They mature in fall.
Norway Spruce Growth
Norway spruce growth is exceptional. The trees grow relatively fast – up to 2 feet a year – and their crowns develop a pyramid shape. The branches may drupe slightly at the tips, giving the trees a graceful allure. If you are thinking of planting a Norway spruce tree, it is important to understand that the tree can reach 100 feet or more in the wild and live for centuries. Although the tree stays shorter when cultivated, homeowners often underestimate the space the tree takes when mature.
Planting a Norway Spruce Tree
The more Norway spruce tree info you have, the more you will see that planting a Norway spruce tree is a good idea. The tree has many good attributes. First, you won’t need to clear out grasses or work the land to prepare a site for planting a Norway spruce tree. This spruce competes against grasses and weeds, and wins. In addition, the tree is drought tolerant. As a conifer, it can go into shut-down mode when irrigation is lacking. At the same time, it is one evergreen that tolerates wet soil. Plant it in marshy soil and it will thrive. You can plant Norway spruce in sun, shade or partial shade and it grows just the same. It is tolerant of poor soil but also grows in rich, fertile soils. Pest resistant, the trees hardly ever fall victim to insect damage or disease. Deer and rodents leave Norway spruce alone.
Care of Norway Spruce Trees
Required Norway spruce care is minimal. If you plant the tree with sufficient elbow room, you may not have to lift a finger other than providing an occasional drink during dry periods. Unlike many trees, the Norway spruce does not produce suckers. Because of this, the tree is not invasive. Digging out suckers is not part of Norway spruce care.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Plum leaf sand cherry, also referred to as purple leaf sand cherry plants, is a medium sized ornamental shrub or small tree that when mature reaches a height of approximately 8 feet tall by 8 feet wide. This easy care plant makes a great addition to the landscape.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月01日
The mulberry bush is not just a folkloric song lyric. You won’t find these sweet, tangy berries in the supermarket due to their short shelf life, but they are easy to grow, abundant, and fast growing, which makes them perfect for containers. If you’re interested in growing mulberries in containers, keep reading to find out how to grow a mulberry tree in a pot and other dwarf mulberry tree facts.
Dwarf Mulberry Tree Facts
Mulberries are suited to USDA zones 5-10. In the ground, mulberries grow into a large bush, but a container grown mulberry tree’s size can be kept smaller (2-6 feet tall) by pruning just after fruiting. Pruning a mulberry also encourages the plant to produce berries again, resulting in several crops throughout the growing season.
Mulberries may be female, male or bisexual. If you are growing from seed, you are more likely to get either a male or female. Commercially sold mulberries are bisexual or self-pollinating. The plant blooms in the early spring and is quickly followed by a dense crop of large juicy berries, about the size of a big blackberry. This berry is so prolific; it even yields well in its first year and may produce several crops.
The children’s song ‘Pop goes the weasel’ isn’t the mulberry’s only claim to fame. Mulberry foliage is the silkworm’s favorite food and has been cultivated for centuries specifically for this purpose. The practice of breeding silkworms for their raw silk production is called ‘sericulture’ and has been around for over 5,000 years in China. Mulberry trees also have long pliable branches perfect for weaving into baskets, fences, and screens. All these interesting uses aside, the number one reason for growing a mulberry is for its fruit. The luscious berries can be eaten fresh, dried, frozen or made into pies, jams, and frozen desserts. They can also be turned into wine or the juice can be used as a dye. Intrigued? So, how do you grow a mulberry tree in a pot and is there any special care needed of mulberries in pots?
Container Grown Mulberry Trees
There isn’t much in the way of special care for mulberries in pots. They are extremely forgiving plants. Full sun exposure will make your mulberry happiest. Interestingly, the tree will do quite well with wet roots, but it can also be drought tolerant once established. They are also frost tolerant, although it is best to mulch around the plants to protect the roots from freezing and thawing. Mulberries are tolerant of a variety of soils but when potting them, it’s best to use a good quality potting medium amended with some nutrient rich compost. Feed the tree at regular intervals during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer, liquid seaweed or water with compost tea. Allow the surface of the soil to dry between waterings and then saturate the soil.
You can prune ever-bearing varieties at any time to retard their growth. Otherwise, cut back leggy plants in the late winter or early spring. Berries are formed on new growth. Mulberries have little to no issue with foliage or root diseases. They are, however, susceptible to spider mites, whiteflies and mealybugs, but these are usually fairly easy to manage.
Dwarf Mulberry Tree Facts
Mulberries are suited to USDA zones 5-10. In the ground, mulberries grow into a large bush, but a container grown mulberry tree’s size can be kept smaller (2-6 feet tall) by pruning just after fruiting. Pruning a mulberry also encourages the plant to produce berries again, resulting in several crops throughout the growing season.
Mulberries may be female, male or bisexual. If you are growing from seed, you are more likely to get either a male or female. Commercially sold mulberries are bisexual or self-pollinating. The plant blooms in the early spring and is quickly followed by a dense crop of large juicy berries, about the size of a big blackberry. This berry is so prolific; it even yields well in its first year and may produce several crops.
The children’s song ‘Pop goes the weasel’ isn’t the mulberry’s only claim to fame. Mulberry foliage is the silkworm’s favorite food and has been cultivated for centuries specifically for this purpose. The practice of breeding silkworms for their raw silk production is called ‘sericulture’ and has been around for over 5,000 years in China. Mulberry trees also have long pliable branches perfect for weaving into baskets, fences, and screens. All these interesting uses aside, the number one reason for growing a mulberry is for its fruit. The luscious berries can be eaten fresh, dried, frozen or made into pies, jams, and frozen desserts. They can also be turned into wine or the juice can be used as a dye. Intrigued? So, how do you grow a mulberry tree in a pot and is there any special care needed of mulberries in pots?
Container Grown Mulberry Trees
There isn’t much in the way of special care for mulberries in pots. They are extremely forgiving plants. Full sun exposure will make your mulberry happiest. Interestingly, the tree will do quite well with wet roots, but it can also be drought tolerant once established. They are also frost tolerant, although it is best to mulch around the plants to protect the roots from freezing and thawing. Mulberries are tolerant of a variety of soils but when potting them, it’s best to use a good quality potting medium amended with some nutrient rich compost. Feed the tree at regular intervals during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer, liquid seaweed or water with compost tea. Allow the surface of the soil to dry between waterings and then saturate the soil.
You can prune ever-bearing varieties at any time to retard their growth. Otherwise, cut back leggy plants in the late winter or early spring. Berries are formed on new growth. Mulberries have little to no issue with foliage or root diseases. They are, however, susceptible to spider mites, whiteflies and mealybugs, but these are usually fairly easy to manage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Japanese snowbell trees are easy to care for, compact, spring-blooming trees. Because of all these things, they are perfect for moderate sized, low maintenance beautifying in places such as parking lot islands and along property borders. Keep reading to learn more Japanese snowbell information, such as planting Japanese snowbell trees and subsequent Japanese snowbell care.
Japanese Snowbell Information
Japanese snowbell trees (Styrax japonicus) are native to China, Japan, and Korea. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8a. They grow slowly to a height of 20 to 30 feet, with a spread of 15 to 25 feet.
In late spring or early summer, usually in May and June, they produce mildly fragrant white flowers. The flowers appear in clusters of small five petaled bells the show up very clearly as they hang down below the upward growing foliage. The flowers are replaced in summer by green, olive-like fruits that are long lasting and pleasant. Japanese snowbell trees are deciduous, but they’re not especially showy in the fall. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow (or occasionally red) and drop. Their most impressive season is spring.
Japanese Snowbell Care
Caring for a Japanese snowbell tree is very easy. The plant prefers partial shade in the warmer zones of its hardy climate (7 and 8), but in cooler areas, it can handle full sun. It does best in somewhat acidic, peaty soil. The ground should be kept moist with frequent watering, but not allowed to get soggy. Only some varieties are hardy down to zone 5, and they should be planted in a spot that’s sheltered from the winter winds.
Over time, the tree will grow up into an attractive spreading pattern. No real pruning is required, though you will probably want to remove the lowest branches as it matures to make way for pedestrian traffic or, even better, a bench underneath it.
Japanese Snowbell Information
Japanese snowbell trees (Styrax japonicus) are native to China, Japan, and Korea. They are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8a. They grow slowly to a height of 20 to 30 feet, with a spread of 15 to 25 feet.
In late spring or early summer, usually in May and June, they produce mildly fragrant white flowers. The flowers appear in clusters of small five petaled bells the show up very clearly as they hang down below the upward growing foliage. The flowers are replaced in summer by green, olive-like fruits that are long lasting and pleasant. Japanese snowbell trees are deciduous, but they’re not especially showy in the fall. In autumn, the leaves turn yellow (or occasionally red) and drop. Their most impressive season is spring.
Japanese Snowbell Care
Caring for a Japanese snowbell tree is very easy. The plant prefers partial shade in the warmer zones of its hardy climate (7 and 8), but in cooler areas, it can handle full sun. It does best in somewhat acidic, peaty soil. The ground should be kept moist with frequent watering, but not allowed to get soggy. Only some varieties are hardy down to zone 5, and they should be planted in a spot that’s sheltered from the winter winds.
Over time, the tree will grow up into an attractive spreading pattern. No real pruning is required, though you will probably want to remove the lowest branches as it matures to make way for pedestrian traffic or, even better, a bench underneath it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Though dogwood trees are, for the most part, an easy to care for landscaping tree, they do have some pests. One of these pests is the dogwood borer. The dogwood borer rarely kills a tree in one season, but if left unchecked, these pests can eventually kill a dogwood tree, especially a young dogwood tree. Keep reading to learn the symptoms of dogwood borers and dogwood borer control.
Symptoms of Dogwood Borers
Most of the severe damage to dogwoods by this pest is caused by the dogwood borer larvae. Most often, dogwood borer larva will embed themselves in burrknots (lumps at the base of the trunk that were formed from undeveloped roots), in grafting collars or in healed bark wounds.
If a wound, grafting collar or knot becomes infested with dogwood borers, it may appear wet and will take on a reddish color. You may even see some bark fall away from these areas.
If the dogwood tree has a bad infestation of dogwood borers, there may even be large patches of healthy bark that will have a wet or damp look and may fall away from the tree easily. Other symptoms of dogwood borers include wilting of new growth, oddly colored leaves or leaves and branches that die off unexpectedly. In older trees that have been infested with dogwood borers for a long period of time, the bark higher up on the tree may crack and branches may break off. Dogwood borer larvae are pink or light orange in color and are about 3 to 5 inches long.
Dogwood Borer Control
Good dogwood borers organic control starts with proper care of dogwood trees. Do not plant dogwood trees in harsh, full sun as this weakens the dogwood tree and makes them more susceptible to the dogwood borer larvae. Dogwood borer larva are attracted to grafted dogwood trees, so either avoid grafted trees or keep a close eye on the base of these dogwood trees if you plant them. Prune your dogwood tree at the proper time. Do not prune your dogwood trees from April until June, as this will leave open wounds during their most active time, which attracts the dogwood borer.
Keep the base of your dogwood free of weeds where the dogwood borers can hide and be careful not to damage your dogwood tree with weed whackers when removing weeds. It is best to simply keep the base of your dogwood tree well mulched. This will not only keep weeds away from the base of the tree, but will keep moisture in the soil, which will make the tree healthier and better able to fight off dogwood borer larvae. If your dogwood tree become infested with dogwood borer larvae, proper dogwood borer control is to treat the base of the tree with insecticide in May. This is when the dogwood borer is most susceptible to dogwood borer insecticide. But, if you discover a dogwood borer infestation earlier or later than this and you would like to treat it immediately, you can. It will not be as effective, but will help reduce the number of dogwood borer larvae, which will reduce the amount of damage to the tree until you are able to treat the dogwood tree with dogwood borer insecticide.
If a dogwood tree is badly infested, it may be best to remove the tree to prevent it from infecting other dogwood trees in the area. While dogwood borers can become a serious problem, once you know how to treat for dogwood borer larva and damage, it becomes a much less damaging to your dogwood trees.
Symptoms of Dogwood Borers
Most of the severe damage to dogwoods by this pest is caused by the dogwood borer larvae. Most often, dogwood borer larva will embed themselves in burrknots (lumps at the base of the trunk that were formed from undeveloped roots), in grafting collars or in healed bark wounds.
If a wound, grafting collar or knot becomes infested with dogwood borers, it may appear wet and will take on a reddish color. You may even see some bark fall away from these areas.
If the dogwood tree has a bad infestation of dogwood borers, there may even be large patches of healthy bark that will have a wet or damp look and may fall away from the tree easily. Other symptoms of dogwood borers include wilting of new growth, oddly colored leaves or leaves and branches that die off unexpectedly. In older trees that have been infested with dogwood borers for a long period of time, the bark higher up on the tree may crack and branches may break off. Dogwood borer larvae are pink or light orange in color and are about 3 to 5 inches long.
Dogwood Borer Control
Good dogwood borers organic control starts with proper care of dogwood trees. Do not plant dogwood trees in harsh, full sun as this weakens the dogwood tree and makes them more susceptible to the dogwood borer larvae. Dogwood borer larva are attracted to grafted dogwood trees, so either avoid grafted trees or keep a close eye on the base of these dogwood trees if you plant them. Prune your dogwood tree at the proper time. Do not prune your dogwood trees from April until June, as this will leave open wounds during their most active time, which attracts the dogwood borer.
Keep the base of your dogwood free of weeds where the dogwood borers can hide and be careful not to damage your dogwood tree with weed whackers when removing weeds. It is best to simply keep the base of your dogwood tree well mulched. This will not only keep weeds away from the base of the tree, but will keep moisture in the soil, which will make the tree healthier and better able to fight off dogwood borer larvae. If your dogwood tree become infested with dogwood borer larvae, proper dogwood borer control is to treat the base of the tree with insecticide in May. This is when the dogwood borer is most susceptible to dogwood borer insecticide. But, if you discover a dogwood borer infestation earlier or later than this and you would like to treat it immediately, you can. It will not be as effective, but will help reduce the number of dogwood borer larvae, which will reduce the amount of damage to the tree until you are able to treat the dogwood tree with dogwood borer insecticide.
If a dogwood tree is badly infested, it may be best to remove the tree to prevent it from infecting other dogwood trees in the area. While dogwood borers can become a serious problem, once you know how to treat for dogwood borer larva and damage, it becomes a much less damaging to your dogwood trees.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Propagating dogwood cuttings is easy and inexpensive. You can easily make enough trees for your own landscape, and a few more to share with friends. For the home gardener, the easiest and fastest method of dogwood tree propagation is taking softwood cuttings. Find out how to grow dogwood cuttings in this article.
Propagating Dogwood Cuttings
Knowing when to take cuttings of dogwood stems can mean the difference between successful propagation and failure. The best time to cut is in the spring, as soon as the tree completes its bloom cycle. You know the stem is ready to cut if it snaps when you bend it in half.
Cuttings aren’t always successful, so take more than you need. The cuttings should be three to five inches long. Make the cut about an inch below a set of leaves. As you take cuttings, lay them in a plastic basin lined with damp paper towels and cover them with another damp towel.
Here are the steps in starting dogwoods from cuttings:
Remove the bottom set of leaves from the stem. This creates wounds to let the rooting hormone in and encourage root growth. Cut the remaining leaves in half if they are long enough to touch the soil when you bury the end of the stem 1.5 inches deep. Keeping the leaves off the soil prevents rot, and shorter leaf surfaces lose less water.
Fill a three-inch pot with rooting medium. You can buy commercial medium or use a mixture of sand and perlite. Don’t use regular potting soil, which holds too much moisture and causes the stem to rot before it roots. Moisten the rooting medium with water. Role or dip the bottom 1.5 inches of the stem in rooting hormone and tap it to remove the excess.
Stick the lower 1.5 inches of the stem in the rooting medium and then firm the medium so that the stems stand straight. Mist the cutting with water. Place the potted cutting inside a large plastic bag and seal it to create a mini greenhouse. Make sure the leaves don’t touch the sides of the bag. If necessary, you can hold the bag away from the plant by placing clean wooden sticks around the edge of the pot. Check the dogwood cutting for roots once a week. You can look at the bottom of the pot to see if roots are coming through or give the stem a gentle tug. Once roots form, the stem will resist a tug. You should find that the cutting has roots within six weeks.
Remove the plastic bag when you’re sure you have roots, and place the new plant in a sunny window. Keep the soil moist at all times. Use half-strength liquid fertilizer every two weeks until the plant is growing well. When the dogwood cutting outgrows its little pot, repot it into a larger pot filled with regular potting soil.
Propagating Dogwood Cuttings
Knowing when to take cuttings of dogwood stems can mean the difference between successful propagation and failure. The best time to cut is in the spring, as soon as the tree completes its bloom cycle. You know the stem is ready to cut if it snaps when you bend it in half.
Cuttings aren’t always successful, so take more than you need. The cuttings should be three to five inches long. Make the cut about an inch below a set of leaves. As you take cuttings, lay them in a plastic basin lined with damp paper towels and cover them with another damp towel.
Here are the steps in starting dogwoods from cuttings:
Remove the bottom set of leaves from the stem. This creates wounds to let the rooting hormone in and encourage root growth. Cut the remaining leaves in half if they are long enough to touch the soil when you bury the end of the stem 1.5 inches deep. Keeping the leaves off the soil prevents rot, and shorter leaf surfaces lose less water.
Fill a three-inch pot with rooting medium. You can buy commercial medium or use a mixture of sand and perlite. Don’t use regular potting soil, which holds too much moisture and causes the stem to rot before it roots. Moisten the rooting medium with water. Role or dip the bottom 1.5 inches of the stem in rooting hormone and tap it to remove the excess.
Stick the lower 1.5 inches of the stem in the rooting medium and then firm the medium so that the stems stand straight. Mist the cutting with water. Place the potted cutting inside a large plastic bag and seal it to create a mini greenhouse. Make sure the leaves don’t touch the sides of the bag. If necessary, you can hold the bag away from the plant by placing clean wooden sticks around the edge of the pot. Check the dogwood cutting for roots once a week. You can look at the bottom of the pot to see if roots are coming through or give the stem a gentle tug. Once roots form, the stem will resist a tug. You should find that the cutting has roots within six weeks.
Remove the plastic bag when you’re sure you have roots, and place the new plant in a sunny window. Keep the soil moist at all times. Use half-strength liquid fertilizer every two weeks until the plant is growing well. When the dogwood cutting outgrows its little pot, repot it into a larger pot filled with regular potting soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Crabapple trees are pretty easy to maintain and don’t require vigorous pruning. The most important reasons to prune are to maintain the tree’s shape, to remove dead branches, and to treat or prevent the spread of disease.
When to Prune a Crabapple Tree
The time for crabapple pruning is when the tree is dormant, but when the possibility of severely cold weather has passed. This means pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, depending on your local climate and temperatures. Suckers, the little shoots that come straight out of the ground around the base of the tree, can be pruned away at any time of year.
How to Prune Crabapples
When pruning crabapple trees, start by removing suckers and water sprouts. The suckers grow from the rootstock of your tree and if you allow them to develop, they can grow into new trunks, possibly of a completely different tree type. This is because your crabapple was grafted onto the rootstock of a different variety.
Water sprouts are small shoots that emerge at an angle between some of the main tree branches. They don’t usually produce fruit and crowd other branches, increasing the risk of disease spreading from one branch to another. The next step in cutting back crabapple trees is to remove any dead branches. Remove them at the base.
Once you have taken off any dead branches, water sprouts, and suckers, you have to be a little more judicious about what to remove next. Remove branches to create a pleasing shape, but also consider removing branches to help them stay well-spaced from each other. Crowded branches make the spread of disease easier. You may also want to remove branches that hang too low and impede movement under the tree, especially if planted in an area frequented by passersby.
Just remember to keep your crabapple pruning simple and minimal. This tree doesn’t require heavy pruning, so take your time and consider how you want it to look before you start removing branches.
When to Prune a Crabapple Tree
The time for crabapple pruning is when the tree is dormant, but when the possibility of severely cold weather has passed. This means pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, depending on your local climate and temperatures. Suckers, the little shoots that come straight out of the ground around the base of the tree, can be pruned away at any time of year.
How to Prune Crabapples
When pruning crabapple trees, start by removing suckers and water sprouts. The suckers grow from the rootstock of your tree and if you allow them to develop, they can grow into new trunks, possibly of a completely different tree type. This is because your crabapple was grafted onto the rootstock of a different variety.
Water sprouts are small shoots that emerge at an angle between some of the main tree branches. They don’t usually produce fruit and crowd other branches, increasing the risk of disease spreading from one branch to another. The next step in cutting back crabapple trees is to remove any dead branches. Remove them at the base.
Once you have taken off any dead branches, water sprouts, and suckers, you have to be a little more judicious about what to remove next. Remove branches to create a pleasing shape, but also consider removing branches to help them stay well-spaced from each other. Crowded branches make the spread of disease easier. You may also want to remove branches that hang too low and impede movement under the tree, especially if planted in an area frequented by passersby.
Just remember to keep your crabapple pruning simple and minimal. This tree doesn’t require heavy pruning, so take your time and consider how you want it to look before you start removing branches.
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