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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
We cultivate our chives in amongst our herb bed, but did you know that wild chives (Allium schoeneprasum) are one of the most common and easy to identify wild growing plants? What are wild chives and are wild chives edible? Read on to find out about wild chive identification and if wild chives are safe to eat.
Are Those Wild Chives in My Yard?
Wild chives are indeed so common you may have wondered “are those wild chives in my yard?” It is very likely the case. These perennial monocots reside in the onion genus and are the smallest species of onion. They are the only Allium species native to both the Old and New World and can be found throughout Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives have been cultivated in Europe since at least the 16th century, but wild chives have been used according to Egyptian and Mesopotamian records to 5,000 B.C. Native people used wild chives medicinally as well. Depending upon the culture, wild chives were used to stimulate the appetite or rid the system of worms, clear sinuses, as an antiseptic, or to treat a variety of maladies from insect bites, hives, burns, sores, and even snakebite. Wild chives contain sulfur compounds that ward off insect pests. They make a great companion plant in the garden, a natural pesticide if you would.
Wild Chive Identification
The wild chive is easy to identify if you’ve ever seen a domestic chive. They look like a clump of grass as they grow except that the leaf blades are not flat like grass but rather cylindrical and hollow. Wild chives will be one of the first plants to appear in the spring and easily stand out amongst the dormant grass. Wild chives grow between 10-20 inches in height. The aroma is lightly oniony, and while there are other plants that look similar, the poisonous mountain death-camas, for example, they lack the distinctive aroma. Wild chives can be found growing in USDA zones 4-8 among grasses and natural areas.
Are Wild Chives Safe to Eat?
While historically wild chives have been used medicinally, modern people use chives as a seasoning or on their own, sautéed as a vegetable. They impart a wonderful delicate onion flavor to soups and stew, and can even be pickled. The entire part of the plant can be eaten. Even the lilac flowers of wild chives are edible as well as beautiful when garnished atop a salad or soup. As mentioned, other plants look similar to wild chives – wild onion and wild garlic to name two. What is the difference between wild onions, wild garlic and wild chives? Wild chives look similar to wild garlic in that they both have hollow leaves while wild onion foliage does not. Sometimes wild onion is also called wild garlic, which is confusing to say the least. These are two distinct plants, however. Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) and are both perennials often thought of more as weeds. That said, all three are members of the Allium family and will all have a distinct aroma. As such, when a plant looks like an onion and smells like an onion, you can eat it like an onion. The same goes with wild garlic, which is just a wild version of our domestic garlic – albeit with smaller cloves.
Are Those Wild Chives in My Yard?
Wild chives are indeed so common you may have wondered “are those wild chives in my yard?” It is very likely the case. These perennial monocots reside in the onion genus and are the smallest species of onion. They are the only Allium species native to both the Old and New World and can be found throughout Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives have been cultivated in Europe since at least the 16th century, but wild chives have been used according to Egyptian and Mesopotamian records to 5,000 B.C. Native people used wild chives medicinally as well. Depending upon the culture, wild chives were used to stimulate the appetite or rid the system of worms, clear sinuses, as an antiseptic, or to treat a variety of maladies from insect bites, hives, burns, sores, and even snakebite. Wild chives contain sulfur compounds that ward off insect pests. They make a great companion plant in the garden, a natural pesticide if you would.
Wild Chive Identification
The wild chive is easy to identify if you’ve ever seen a domestic chive. They look like a clump of grass as they grow except that the leaf blades are not flat like grass but rather cylindrical and hollow. Wild chives will be one of the first plants to appear in the spring and easily stand out amongst the dormant grass. Wild chives grow between 10-20 inches in height. The aroma is lightly oniony, and while there are other plants that look similar, the poisonous mountain death-camas, for example, they lack the distinctive aroma. Wild chives can be found growing in USDA zones 4-8 among grasses and natural areas.
Are Wild Chives Safe to Eat?
While historically wild chives have been used medicinally, modern people use chives as a seasoning or on their own, sautéed as a vegetable. They impart a wonderful delicate onion flavor to soups and stew, and can even be pickled. The entire part of the plant can be eaten. Even the lilac flowers of wild chives are edible as well as beautiful when garnished atop a salad or soup. As mentioned, other plants look similar to wild chives – wild onion and wild garlic to name two. What is the difference between wild onions, wild garlic and wild chives? Wild chives look similar to wild garlic in that they both have hollow leaves while wild onion foliage does not. Sometimes wild onion is also called wild garlic, which is confusing to say the least. These are two distinct plants, however. Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) and are both perennials often thought of more as weeds. That said, all three are members of the Allium family and will all have a distinct aroma. As such, when a plant looks like an onion and smells like an onion, you can eat it like an onion. The same goes with wild garlic, which is just a wild version of our domestic garlic – albeit with smaller cloves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
If there were an award for “easiest herb to grow,” growing chives (Allium schoenoprasum) would win that award. Learning how to grow chives is so easy that even a child can do it, which makes this plant an excellent herb to help introduce children to herb gardening.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chamomile is a fantastic herb to grow. Its foliage and flowers are bright, its fragrance is sweet, and the tea that can be brewed from the leaves is relaxing and easy to make. While it will thrive outdoors, chamomile will also grow very well indoors in a pot. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chamomile indoors.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chamomile tea is a mild herbal tea often used for its calming effects and for its ability to calm mild stomach upsets. However, using chamomile tea for gardening may offer surprising benefits that most people haven’t considered. Here are three easy ways to use chamomile tea for gardening.
Chamomile Tea Uses in Gardens
Chamomile flowers are not only attractive additions to the garden, but useful ones too. The plants are often utilized in the making of tea that many people find quite calming. But did you know this tea can be used for other stuff in the garden? Below are some interesting uses of chamomile tea for plants.
Prevent damping off
Prevention of damping off is probably the most common uses for chamomile tea in gardens. If you’re unfamiliar with the term, damping off is a common but extremely frustrating fungal disease that befalls seedlings. The tiny plants rarely survive, but instead collapse and die. To protect seedlings with chamomile tea, brew a weak solution of tea (The tea should be pale yellow). Mist the seedlings and the surface of the soil lightly three to four times per week, and then allow the seedlings to dry in the sunlight. Continue until the seedlings are sturdy enough to plant outdoors. Spray seedlings immediately if you notice a fuzzy white growth on the surface of the soil. Make a fresh batch of chamomile tea for plants every week or so.
Seed germination
Chamomile tea contains tannins, which can promote seed germination by softening seed casings. Soaking seeds in chamomile tea will also help prevent damping off. To use chamomile tea for seed germination, brew a cup or two of weak tea, then allow the tea to cool until it feels slightly warm to the touch. Place the water in a bowl, then add the seeds and leave them until they begin to swell – generally eight to 12 hours. Don’t leave the seeds longer than 24 hours because they may begin to rot. Chamomile tea seed germination works best for larger seeds with hard outer coats, such as corn, beans, peas, squashor nasturtiums. Smaller seeds generally don’t require soaking, and can be extremely difficult to handle when wet.
Natural insecticide
Using chamomile tea in the garden as a natural insecticide works well too, and when used properly, chamomile tea for plants has a low toxicity and doesn’t present a huge risk for bees and other beneficial insects. To use chamomile tea as a natural insecticide, brew a strong (triple strength) batch of tea and let it steep for up to 24 hours. Pour the tea into a spray bottle with a targeted sprayer. Use the tea to spray infested plants, but be careful not to spray the plant when bees or other beneficial insects are present. Also, don’t spray during the heat of the day or when the plant is in direct sunlight.
Chamomile Tea Uses in Gardens
Chamomile flowers are not only attractive additions to the garden, but useful ones too. The plants are often utilized in the making of tea that many people find quite calming. But did you know this tea can be used for other stuff in the garden? Below are some interesting uses of chamomile tea for plants.
Prevent damping off
Prevention of damping off is probably the most common uses for chamomile tea in gardens. If you’re unfamiliar with the term, damping off is a common but extremely frustrating fungal disease that befalls seedlings. The tiny plants rarely survive, but instead collapse and die. To protect seedlings with chamomile tea, brew a weak solution of tea (The tea should be pale yellow). Mist the seedlings and the surface of the soil lightly three to four times per week, and then allow the seedlings to dry in the sunlight. Continue until the seedlings are sturdy enough to plant outdoors. Spray seedlings immediately if you notice a fuzzy white growth on the surface of the soil. Make a fresh batch of chamomile tea for plants every week or so.
Seed germination
Chamomile tea contains tannins, which can promote seed germination by softening seed casings. Soaking seeds in chamomile tea will also help prevent damping off. To use chamomile tea for seed germination, brew a cup or two of weak tea, then allow the tea to cool until it feels slightly warm to the touch. Place the water in a bowl, then add the seeds and leave them until they begin to swell – generally eight to 12 hours. Don’t leave the seeds longer than 24 hours because they may begin to rot. Chamomile tea seed germination works best for larger seeds with hard outer coats, such as corn, beans, peas, squashor nasturtiums. Smaller seeds generally don’t require soaking, and can be extremely difficult to handle when wet.
Natural insecticide
Using chamomile tea in the garden as a natural insecticide works well too, and when used properly, chamomile tea for plants has a low toxicity and doesn’t present a huge risk for bees and other beneficial insects. To use chamomile tea as a natural insecticide, brew a strong (triple strength) batch of tea and let it steep for up to 24 hours. Pour the tea into a spray bottle with a targeted sprayer. Use the tea to spray infested plants, but be careful not to spray the plant when bees or other beneficial insects are present. Also, don’t spray during the heat of the day or when the plant is in direct sunlight.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Catnip plants (Nepeta cataria) can help make your garden a cat-friendly garden. The catnip herb is a perennial member of the mint family that is best known for being attractive to cats, but can also be used in soothing teas. Growing catnip is easy, but there are some things you need to know about how to grow catnip.
Planting Catnip
Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.
If you’re growing catnip from seed, you’ll need to properly prepare the seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified or slightly damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of water for 24 hours. This process will damage the seed coat and will make it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per 20 inches after the sprout. You can also plant catnip from plant divisions or started plants. The best time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall. Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.
Growing Catnip
Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate part sun and a wide variety of soil types. Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of care. They don’t need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having drought conditions.
Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its spread, you’ll need to remove the flowers before they go to seed. Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.
Planting Catnip
Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.
If you’re growing catnip from seed, you’ll need to properly prepare the seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified or slightly damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of water for 24 hours. This process will damage the seed coat and will make it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per 20 inches after the sprout. You can also plant catnip from plant divisions or started plants. The best time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall. Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.
Growing Catnip
Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate part sun and a wide variety of soil types. Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of care. They don’t need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having drought conditions.
Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its spread, you’ll need to remove the flowers before they go to seed. Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay leaves add their essence and aroma to our soups and stews, but did you ever wonder how to grow a bay leaf tree? The seasoning is so commonplace it is easy to forget that the leaves are from a growing tree. The sweet bay leaf tree (Laurus nobilis) is a 40- to 50-foot tall tree native to the Mediterranean region. It was once made into a wreath to crown the winners of ancient Greek games. The tree is considered to be one of the oldest cultivated tree species.
About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees
Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 7. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods. Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be given to these trees in cold climates.
How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree
Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an incorporation of generous amounts of compost. The trees can be kept at a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early spring when they are semi-dormant.
You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings or air layering is the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer and set into a soil-less medium. Air layering requires the gardener to wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted. Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary or other form with careful management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight is from a southern or eastern direction.
Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree
Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh wholesome seasoning.
About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees
Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 7. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods. Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be given to these trees in cold climates.
How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree
Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an incorporation of generous amounts of compost. The trees can be kept at a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early spring when they are semi-dormant.
You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings or air layering is the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer and set into a soil-less medium. Air layering requires the gardener to wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted. Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary or other form with careful management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight is from a southern or eastern direction.
Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree
Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh wholesome seasoning.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
While often sold as a flowering perennial, yarrow plant (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard. Yarrow care is so easy that the plant is virtually care-free. Let’s take a look at how to plant yarrow and also tips for how to grow yarrow.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted. Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Using Yarrow Herb
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, yarrow herb should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, yarrow herb is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted. Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Using Yarrow Herb
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, yarrow herb should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, yarrow herb is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) is an herb that’s been used in traditional medicine for centuries and is still known for its calming effects even today. It’s very tough and easy to grow, earning it a place in plenty of medicinal and ornamental gardens. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow valerian plants.
How to Grow Valerian Plants
What is valerian? It’s a hardy perennial native to Eurasia. It’s very cold tolerant and thrives in USDA zones 4 through 9. A valerian herb plant will die back to the ground in the winter, but the roots should be fine and will put up new growth in the spring. It will grow in a wide variety of conditions, from full to sun to partial shade and in any well-draining soil. It does, however, like to be kept moist. As part of valerian herb plant care, you’ll need to water it frequently and cover it with mulch to help retain moisture.
Also, a valerian herb plant will self-seed very readily. If you don’t want your plants to spread, remove the flowers before they have a chance to develop and drop seeds. Growing valerian herbs is very easy. The seeds can be sown directly in the ground after all chance of frost has passed, or they can be started indoors several weeks earlier and then transplanted outside.
The plants grow to between 3 and 5 feet in height and produce white, faintly scented flowers. The roots are used for their calming properties when eaten or brewed into tea. Harvest the roots in the fall by watering the plant, then digging the whole thing up. Wash the soil from the roots, then dry them in the oven at 200 degrees F. (93 C.) with the door open a crack. The roots may take two growing seasons to be large enough to harvest.
How to Grow Valerian Plants
What is valerian? It’s a hardy perennial native to Eurasia. It’s very cold tolerant and thrives in USDA zones 4 through 9. A valerian herb plant will die back to the ground in the winter, but the roots should be fine and will put up new growth in the spring. It will grow in a wide variety of conditions, from full to sun to partial shade and in any well-draining soil. It does, however, like to be kept moist. As part of valerian herb plant care, you’ll need to water it frequently and cover it with mulch to help retain moisture.
Also, a valerian herb plant will self-seed very readily. If you don’t want your plants to spread, remove the flowers before they have a chance to develop and drop seeds. Growing valerian herbs is very easy. The seeds can be sown directly in the ground after all chance of frost has passed, or they can be started indoors several weeks earlier and then transplanted outside.
The plants grow to between 3 and 5 feet in height and produce white, faintly scented flowers. The roots are used for their calming properties when eaten or brewed into tea. Harvest the roots in the fall by watering the plant, then digging the whole thing up. Wash the soil from the roots, then dry them in the oven at 200 degrees F. (93 C.) with the door open a crack. The roots may take two growing seasons to be large enough to harvest.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing tarragon indoors allows you easy access to the herb and gives the plant protection from cold temperatures. Tarragon is only half hardy and doesn’t perform well when exposed to winter chill. There are a few tips to learning how to grow tarragon indoors. Herbs generally like dry soil, bright light and temperatures near 70 F. (21 C.). Growing tarragon inside is easy if you just follow a few simple requirements.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing savory (Satureja) in the home herb garden isn’t as common as growing other kinds of herbs, which is a shame as both fresh winter savory and summer savory are excellent additions to the kitchen. Planting savory is easy and rewarding. Let’s look at how to grow savory in your garden.
Two Types of Savory
The first thing to understand before you start planting savory in your garden is that there are two kinds of savory. There is winter savory (Satureja montana), which is a perennial and has a more intense flavor. Then there is summer savory (Satureja hortensis), which is an annual and has a more subtle flavor. Both winter savory and summer savory are tasty, but if you are new to cooking with savory, it is generally recommended that you start growing the summer savory first until you feel comfortable with your cooking savory.
Tips for Growing Summer Savory
Summer savory is an annual and must be planted every year. Plant seeds outdoors right after the last frost has past. Plant seeds 3 to 5 inches apart and about an 1/8 of an inch down in the soil.. Allow plants to grow to a height of 6 inches before you start to harvest leaves for cooking. While savory plant is growing and when you are using fresh savory for cooking, use only the tender growth on the plant. At the end of the season, harvest the entire plant, both woody and tender growth, and dry the leavesher of the plant for so that you can use the herb over the winter as well.
Tips for Growing Winter Savory
Winter savory is the perennial version of the savory herb. Seeds of the winter savory plant can be planted indoors or outdoors. If planting outdoors, plant the seeds right after the last frost If planting indoors, start the savory seeds two to six weeks before the last frost. Plant seeds or transplanted seedlings into your garden 1 to 2 feet apart and an 1/8 inch down in the soil. The plants will get large. Use the tender leaves and stems for fresh herb cooking and harvest the leaves from woody stems for drying and use later.
Other Tips for Growing Savory
Both kinds of savories are from the mint family but are not invasive like many other mint herbs.
Two Types of Savory
The first thing to understand before you start planting savory in your garden is that there are two kinds of savory. There is winter savory (Satureja montana), which is a perennial and has a more intense flavor. Then there is summer savory (Satureja hortensis), which is an annual and has a more subtle flavor. Both winter savory and summer savory are tasty, but if you are new to cooking with savory, it is generally recommended that you start growing the summer savory first until you feel comfortable with your cooking savory.
Tips for Growing Summer Savory
Summer savory is an annual and must be planted every year. Plant seeds outdoors right after the last frost has past. Plant seeds 3 to 5 inches apart and about an 1/8 of an inch down in the soil.. Allow plants to grow to a height of 6 inches before you start to harvest leaves for cooking. While savory plant is growing and when you are using fresh savory for cooking, use only the tender growth on the plant. At the end of the season, harvest the entire plant, both woody and tender growth, and dry the leavesher of the plant for so that you can use the herb over the winter as well.
Tips for Growing Winter Savory
Winter savory is the perennial version of the savory herb. Seeds of the winter savory plant can be planted indoors or outdoors. If planting outdoors, plant the seeds right after the last frost If planting indoors, start the savory seeds two to six weeks before the last frost. Plant seeds or transplanted seedlings into your garden 1 to 2 feet apart and an 1/8 inch down in the soil. The plants will get large. Use the tender leaves and stems for fresh herb cooking and harvest the leaves from woody stems for drying and use later.
Other Tips for Growing Savory
Both kinds of savories are from the mint family but are not invasive like many other mint herbs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Creeping savory in gardens are compact, fragrant plants at home in herb gardens or along borders or pathways. These easy-to-grow herbs are also well suited for containers or window boxes where the trailing stems can cascade over the edges. At only 2 to 4 inches tall, creeping savory plants make ideal ground covers. This hardy little herb is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Read to learn about growing creeping savory in your own garden.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A lot of people enjoy having small kitchen window sill plants like rosemary. However, although they are easy to grow, they aren’t without faults. Often, you’ll find there are problems with growing rosemary, one of them being a common fungus.
Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Perhaps you’ve noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you aren’t alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different. Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary, which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow. Powdery mildew on rosemary can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. Pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen. Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide such as neem oil will help to kill the fungus. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You may need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Preventing Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
One of the best ways to treat white powder on rosemary is to prevent it in the first place. Even if you still have an outbreak, with a few precautions beforehand, the powdery mildew will not have as good a stronghold, making it’s treatment even easier.
When it comes to the prevention of powdery mildew, the use of bicarbonates seems promising, at least for many people. Since powdery mildew fungus thrives in moist, humid conditions, ensure that your plant has plenty of light and well-draining soil. Only water the plant as needed to avoid overly saturated soil and keep the water off the foliage. Keep your rosemary plants well ventilated too, meaning do not overcrowd them with other plants. This only creates a moist environment for the fungus to thrive in. Oftentimes, powdery mildew attacks new growth, so avoiding excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers should help limit this growth. Purchasing plants that are resistant to the disease, whenever available, is a good idea too. Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat or prevent it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Perhaps you’ve noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you aren’t alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different. Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary, which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow. Powdery mildew on rosemary can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. Pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen. Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide such as neem oil will help to kill the fungus. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You may need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Preventing Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
One of the best ways to treat white powder on rosemary is to prevent it in the first place. Even if you still have an outbreak, with a few precautions beforehand, the powdery mildew will not have as good a stronghold, making it’s treatment even easier.
When it comes to the prevention of powdery mildew, the use of bicarbonates seems promising, at least for many people. Since powdery mildew fungus thrives in moist, humid conditions, ensure that your plant has plenty of light and well-draining soil. Only water the plant as needed to avoid overly saturated soil and keep the water off the foliage. Keep your rosemary plants well ventilated too, meaning do not overcrowd them with other plants. This only creates a moist environment for the fungus to thrive in. Oftentimes, powdery mildew attacks new growth, so avoiding excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers should help limit this growth. Purchasing plants that are resistant to the disease, whenever available, is a good idea too. Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat or prevent it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most rosemary plants have blue to purple flowers, but not pink flowering rosemary. This beauty is as easy to grow as its blue and purple cousins, has the same fragrant qualities but with different hued blossoms. Thinking about growing rosemary with pink flowers? Read on for information about growing pink rosemary plants.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dried herbs store beautifully and allow the home cook access to many flavors and aromas. Oregano is a Mediterranean herb with a pungent scent and flavor punch. It is an easy to grow herb, which is used fresh or dried. Dry oregano carries an intensified version of its fresh palate pleasing powers. Harvesting oregano and drying it provides easy access and long-term storage of the herb. Learn how to pick and dry oregano to round out your seasoning cabinet or share with friends.
How to Harvest Oregano
Oregano is a hardy perennial herb that may die back in extremely cold winters. Preserving the tasty leaves is simple. Wait until morning after the dew has dried when harvesting oregano. The essential oils in herbs are highest in concentration in warm mornings. The best flavor is achieved when the herb is harvested just as flower buds form. Use scissors or garden shears to remove stems from the plant. Cut back to just above a growth node or set of leaves. This will allow the plant to branch from the cut area and produce more flavorful leaves. Rinse the stems lightly if there is dust or mulch on them. Shake off the excess moisture before drying oregano.
Tips on Drying Oregano
There are several methods used to harvest oregano and dry it for preservation. You may pull off the tiny leaves and dry them separately or dry the entire stem and then crumble off the crisp leaves. Bundle the stems together and hang them to dry oregano in a dark, dry spot. Place a perforated paper bag around the herbs to catch the bits of leaves as they fall and to keep dirt and dust off. You may also dry the stems on food dehydrator trays in single layer or for a low-tech solution, place them on trays for several days in a warm room. Turn the stems several times during the drying process to expose the leaves evenly to air and heat. Once the leaves are dry and the stems are stiff, you can remove the leaves for storage. The best way to do this is to pinch the stem at the bottom and pull up. The leaves will fall off easily. The stems are woody and slightly bitter but you can add them to a fire for amazing herbaceous scent. You can also use the dried stems in a smoker to add flavor to meat as it cooks. Go through the leaves for bits of chaff and stem before placing them in a container.
Storing Dry Oregano
After drying oregano and harvesting the leaves, you need to store them in a dark, dry location to preserve the most flavor. Use glass bottles or airtight plastic containers. Light and air will degrade the flavor of the herb. Dry oregano will last for up to six months with best flavor and quality.
How to Harvest Oregano
Oregano is a hardy perennial herb that may die back in extremely cold winters. Preserving the tasty leaves is simple. Wait until morning after the dew has dried when harvesting oregano. The essential oils in herbs are highest in concentration in warm mornings. The best flavor is achieved when the herb is harvested just as flower buds form. Use scissors or garden shears to remove stems from the plant. Cut back to just above a growth node or set of leaves. This will allow the plant to branch from the cut area and produce more flavorful leaves. Rinse the stems lightly if there is dust or mulch on them. Shake off the excess moisture before drying oregano.
Tips on Drying Oregano
There are several methods used to harvest oregano and dry it for preservation. You may pull off the tiny leaves and dry them separately or dry the entire stem and then crumble off the crisp leaves. Bundle the stems together and hang them to dry oregano in a dark, dry spot. Place a perforated paper bag around the herbs to catch the bits of leaves as they fall and to keep dirt and dust off. You may also dry the stems on food dehydrator trays in single layer or for a low-tech solution, place them on trays for several days in a warm room. Turn the stems several times during the drying process to expose the leaves evenly to air and heat. Once the leaves are dry and the stems are stiff, you can remove the leaves for storage. The best way to do this is to pinch the stem at the bottom and pull up. The leaves will fall off easily. The stems are woody and slightly bitter but you can add them to a fire for amazing herbaceous scent. You can also use the dried stems in a smoker to add flavor to meat as it cooks. Go through the leaves for bits of chaff and stem before placing them in a container.
Storing Dry Oregano
After drying oregano and harvesting the leaves, you need to store them in a dark, dry location to preserve the most flavor. Use glass bottles or airtight plastic containers. Light and air will degrade the flavor of the herb. Dry oregano will last for up to six months with best flavor and quality.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
With dozens of uses in the kitchen, oregano is an essential plant for culinary herb gardens. This Mediterranean herb is easy to grow in the right location. Plant it in full sun in an area with good air circulation and well-drained soil to keep oregano problems to a minimum.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
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