文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Hyssop (Hysoppus officinalis) is an attractive flowering herb commonly grown for its flavorful leaves. Growing a hyssop plant is easy and makes a lovely addition to the garden. The spikes of blue, pink, or red flowers are great for attracting important pollinators to the landscape as well.
Growing Hyssop as a Garden Plant
Although most hyssop plants are grown in herb gardens, they also have their place in flower gardens as border plants. Hyssop makes a great edging plant when grown in masses as well, but did you know that hyssop plants can also be grown in containers? When you grow hyssop in containers, make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the large root systems. Hyssop plants prefer to be grown in areas with full sun or partial shade. They need well-drained soil, a bit on the dry side, amended with organic matter.
How to Plant Hyssop Seed
The most common way to plant hyssop is by sowing seeds. Sow hyssop seeds indoors or directly in the garden about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. Plant hyssop just beneath the soil’s surface or about a quarter inch deep. Hyssop seeds usually take between 14 and 21 days to germinate and can be transplanted (if sown indoors) in the garden after the threat of frost has ended in spring. Space hyssop plants about 6 to 12 inches apart. Once blooming has ceased and seed capsules have completely dried, they can be collected and stored for growing hyssop the next season. In some areas, however, hyssop plants will self-seed readily. In addition, the plants can be divided in fall.
Harvesting & Pruning Hyssop Plants
If growing hyssop for use in the kitchen, it is best used fresh. However, it can be dried or frozen and stored for later use. When harvesting a hyssop plant, cut it in the morning hours once any dew has dried. Hang the plants upside down in small bunches to dry in a dark, well-ventilated area. Alternatively, you can place the leaves in a plastic bag after removing them from the stems and place in the freezer until ready to use. When you grow hyssop as a garden plant, trim back established hyssop plants heavily in early spring and again after flowering to prevent them from becoming too spindly. Cutting back the foliage also encourages bushier plants. Growing hyssop as a garden plant is not only easy but can also attract wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden. In addition, hyssop leaves can be harvested for use in salads, soups and other dishes.
Growing Hyssop as a Garden Plant
Although most hyssop plants are grown in herb gardens, they also have their place in flower gardens as border plants. Hyssop makes a great edging plant when grown in masses as well, but did you know that hyssop plants can also be grown in containers? When you grow hyssop in containers, make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the large root systems. Hyssop plants prefer to be grown in areas with full sun or partial shade. They need well-drained soil, a bit on the dry side, amended with organic matter.
How to Plant Hyssop Seed
The most common way to plant hyssop is by sowing seeds. Sow hyssop seeds indoors or directly in the garden about eight to 10 weeks before the last frost. Plant hyssop just beneath the soil’s surface or about a quarter inch deep. Hyssop seeds usually take between 14 and 21 days to germinate and can be transplanted (if sown indoors) in the garden after the threat of frost has ended in spring. Space hyssop plants about 6 to 12 inches apart. Once blooming has ceased and seed capsules have completely dried, they can be collected and stored for growing hyssop the next season. In some areas, however, hyssop plants will self-seed readily. In addition, the plants can be divided in fall.
Harvesting & Pruning Hyssop Plants
If growing hyssop for use in the kitchen, it is best used fresh. However, it can be dried or frozen and stored for later use. When harvesting a hyssop plant, cut it in the morning hours once any dew has dried. Hang the plants upside down in small bunches to dry in a dark, well-ventilated area. Alternatively, you can place the leaves in a plastic bag after removing them from the stems and place in the freezer until ready to use. When you grow hyssop as a garden plant, trim back established hyssop plants heavily in early spring and again after flowering to prevent them from becoming too spindly. Cutting back the foliage also encourages bushier plants. Growing hyssop as a garden plant is not only easy but can also attract wildlife like butterflies and hummingbirds to the garden. In addition, hyssop leaves can be harvested for use in salads, soups and other dishes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Agastache, or anise hyssop, is an aromatic, culinary, cosmetic and medicinal herb. It has a long history of use and provides a splash of deepest blue across the perennial garden. Anise hyssop also adds a light licorice scent to the garden patch. This easy to grow herb gets woody square stems and may grow up to 3 feet tall. It needs no special attention and is, in fact, fairly self-maintaining once established. Light trimming will keep the plant looking its best. In this article, we will discuss when and how to prune Agastache for best results and a healthy plant.
Agastache Pruning Info
Many of our native perennial herbs are designed by nature to thrive without any human intervention. That being said, even a hardy specimen like anise hyssop can benefit from some minor meddling. Pruning anise hyssop when it is young in early spring will help force a bushier plant. Cutting back anise hyssop in late winter will allow the fresh new stems to come up unimpeded. The plant can also do quite well without any trimming but if you choose to cut, know when to prune Agastache for the most effective maintenance experience.
In most regions of North America, anise hyssop will brown and die back for winter. You may choose to leave it just as it is with the addition of a bit more mulch around the root zone, and no harm will come to this hardy plant. You may also want to remove the dead plant material just to tidy up the area and allow the plant’s new growth to shine through in spring. The choice is yours and neither is strictly wrong or right. It just depends upon what kind of landscape you like to maintain. Pruning anise hyssop will enhance its appearance, force new compact growth and may increase blooms if deadheaded.
When to Prune Agastache
Herbaceous plants do best if trimmed back in early spring just as new growth is about to appear. Anise hyssop can also be deadheaded and shaped lightly from spring until mid-summer. Suspend any trimming thereafter, as it may force tender new growth that can be damaged when cool weather appears. Such light pruning will allow you to remove spent flowers and prevent seed heads and prolific self-seeding. Dig up the plant and divide it every 3 to 5 years to help prevent center die-out and rejuvenate the plant.
How to Prune Agastache
How to prune Agastache is just as important as when to prune it. Always use sanitized pruning shears or loppers that are nice and sharp. To deadhead anise hyssop, simply cut off the dead flowering stems. If you wish to force new growth and shape the plant, cut back up to 1/3 of the woody material. Make cuts at a slight angle to force moisture away from the stem. Remove plant material just above a viable bud node. Heavily cutting back anise hyssop to rejuvenate the plant can be done by removing the stems to within 6 to 12 inches from the ground.
Agastache Pruning Info
Many of our native perennial herbs are designed by nature to thrive without any human intervention. That being said, even a hardy specimen like anise hyssop can benefit from some minor meddling. Pruning anise hyssop when it is young in early spring will help force a bushier plant. Cutting back anise hyssop in late winter will allow the fresh new stems to come up unimpeded. The plant can also do quite well without any trimming but if you choose to cut, know when to prune Agastache for the most effective maintenance experience.
In most regions of North America, anise hyssop will brown and die back for winter. You may choose to leave it just as it is with the addition of a bit more mulch around the root zone, and no harm will come to this hardy plant. You may also want to remove the dead plant material just to tidy up the area and allow the plant’s new growth to shine through in spring. The choice is yours and neither is strictly wrong or right. It just depends upon what kind of landscape you like to maintain. Pruning anise hyssop will enhance its appearance, force new compact growth and may increase blooms if deadheaded.
When to Prune Agastache
Herbaceous plants do best if trimmed back in early spring just as new growth is about to appear. Anise hyssop can also be deadheaded and shaped lightly from spring until mid-summer. Suspend any trimming thereafter, as it may force tender new growth that can be damaged when cool weather appears. Such light pruning will allow you to remove spent flowers and prevent seed heads and prolific self-seeding. Dig up the plant and divide it every 3 to 5 years to help prevent center die-out and rejuvenate the plant.
How to Prune Agastache
How to prune Agastache is just as important as when to prune it. Always use sanitized pruning shears or loppers that are nice and sharp. To deadhead anise hyssop, simply cut off the dead flowering stems. If you wish to force new growth and shape the plant, cut back up to 1/3 of the woody material. Make cuts at a slight angle to force moisture away from the stem. Remove plant material just above a viable bud node. Heavily cutting back anise hyssop to rejuvenate the plant can be done by removing the stems to within 6 to 12 inches from the ground.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Succulents are easy to grow, attractive and aromatic. Such is the case with Cuban oregano. What is Cuban oregano? It is a succulent in the Lamiaceae family, also known as Spanish thyme, Indian borage and Mexican mint. It is not a true oregano in the family, Origanum, but has a scent characteristic of the true oreganos. There are numerous culinary and traditional Cuban oregano uses. Once you know how to grow Cuban oregano, try this lively little plant in containers, a well-drained, partially sunny area of the garden or in trailing baskets.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Cilantro is a popular, short-lived herb. If you wish to increase the life span of cilantro, harvesting it regularly will help greatly.
How to Harvest Cilantro
When it comes to cilantro, harvesting is relatively easy. All that is required is cutting cilantro plants about one-third of the way down. The top one-third is what you will use to cook with and the bottom two-thirds will grow new leaves.
How Often Should You Harvest Cilantro?
You should be harvesting cilantro about once a week. If the plant is growing well, you can harvest more often. Either way, you’ll need to harvest the cilantro at least once a week to help stave off bolting. After harvesting the cilantro, if you aren’t able to cook with it immediately, you can freeze the cuttings until you’re ready to cook with them.
How Do You Cut Cilantro?
When cutting the cilantro stem, make sure that you are using sharp, clean shears or scissors. Leave a few leaves on the intact stem so that the plant will still be able to generate food for itself. Now that you know how to harvest cilantro, you know that cilantro harvesting is easy and painless. Harvesting cilantro is an excellent way to have fresh herbs for your Mexican and Asian dishes as well as keeping your cilantro plants usable a little longer.
How to Harvest Cilantro
When it comes to cilantro, harvesting is relatively easy. All that is required is cutting cilantro plants about one-third of the way down. The top one-third is what you will use to cook with and the bottom two-thirds will grow new leaves.
How Often Should You Harvest Cilantro?
You should be harvesting cilantro about once a week. If the plant is growing well, you can harvest more often. Either way, you’ll need to harvest the cilantro at least once a week to help stave off bolting. After harvesting the cilantro, if you aren’t able to cook with it immediately, you can freeze the cuttings until you’re ready to cook with them.
How Do You Cut Cilantro?
When cutting the cilantro stem, make sure that you are using sharp, clean shears or scissors. Leave a few leaves on the intact stem so that the plant will still be able to generate food for itself. Now that you know how to harvest cilantro, you know that cilantro harvesting is easy and painless. Harvesting cilantro is an excellent way to have fresh herbs for your Mexican and Asian dishes as well as keeping your cilantro plants usable a little longer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Sage, rosemary and thyme are perennial staples of most herb gardens, but don’t forget the annuals. A hardy annual, suited to all USDA hardiness zones, is borage. This self-seeding herb is easy to grow and if allowed to bloom and set seed will provide year upon year of edible blue blossoms as well as foliage. The question is, when and how to harvest borage?
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While basil is a commonly grown herb outdoors, this easy-care plant can also be grown indoors. In fact, you can grow basil inside much the same as you would in the garden. This wonderfully fragrant herb can be grown for use in the kitchen, making aromatic oils, or simply for aesthetic purposes. Let’s look at how to grow basil indoors.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
A relative to mint, basil (Ocimum basilicum) has become one of the most popular, easy-to-grow and versatile of garden herbs. All basil is heat- and sun-loving, regardless of variety. Originating from India, basil plant leaves may be found in a plethora of cuisines from Italian to Thai and can be used to flavor foods, vinegars, oils, teas, and even to scent soap. However, you may sometimes be surprised to find holes or other basil leaf damage in basil leaves. 
What’s Eating My Basil Leaves?
Generally speaking, basil plant leaves are not susceptible to many issues as long as you rotate plantings and maintain hygiene surrounding the plant. That said, you may on occasion notice that something is taking a nibble or two from your soon-to-be pesto. What basil pests are capable of this relentless infraction? Let’s learn more about the pests associated with most basil leaf damage.
Holes in Basil Leaves and Basil Pests
When gaps or holes in basil leaves have been discovered, the time for action is now! The most frequent assaulters of your precious basil plant leaves are Japanese beetles, slugs and aphids.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are usually found for around a month during the summer. They ravage the tender leaf but do not eat the larger veins of the basil plant, leaving a lacy looking skeleton on your plant. Japanese beetles can be plucked from the basil plant with your fingers and squished or dropped into soapy water to dispose. You may also choose to cover plants with garden fabric to reduce the number of mature insects that feed on them, which can also include the grasshopper.
Slugs or Snails
Slugs, ugh, slugs! Slugs find the basil plant leaves almost as delicious as you do. They create ragged holes in the basil plant leaves after climbing up the plant. While basil plants like mulch to help retain the moisture they enjoy, it is also a conduit for the slugs. To retard those munching slugs, try sprinkling diatomaceous earth over the mulch. The diatomaceous earth scrapes the slug’s skin and causes it to dehydrate and subsequently die. Products such as Bayer Advanced Dual Action Snail and Slug Killer Bait, Sluggo, Escar-Go, and Schultz Slug and Snail Bait must be reapplied after rain or watering. While not totally nontoxic, these products contain iron phosphate, which is significantly less harmful to pets, birds and beneficial insects than the more antiquated metaldehyde-containing products.
Aphids and Soft Bodied Insects
Soft bodied insects such as aphids, spider mites and whiteflies can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps like Bonide Multi Purpose Insect Control Soap, Safer Rose and Flower Insect Killer Concentrate, Safer Insect Killing Soap Concentrate and Concern Insect Killing Soap Concentrate. Most of these pests will be on the underside of the basil leaf and must have direct contact with the soapy spray to effectively eradicate them. If you are interested in using a more environmentally friendly product, you may investigate Azadiractin, which is an extraction naturally produced by the Neem tree, and is also known to gardeners as neem oil. Products which contain Azadiractin include: Align, Azatin, Neemex and Omazin. These products provide the gardener with another option for controlling basil plant marauders. Finally, remove any basil plant leaves with holes in them to avoid contaminating the rest of your plant. Chances are good that those damaged basil plant leaves harbor some type of pest vying for your next batch of Pesto Genovese.
What’s Eating My Basil Leaves?
Generally speaking, basil plant leaves are not susceptible to many issues as long as you rotate plantings and maintain hygiene surrounding the plant. That said, you may on occasion notice that something is taking a nibble or two from your soon-to-be pesto. What basil pests are capable of this relentless infraction? Let’s learn more about the pests associated with most basil leaf damage.
Holes in Basil Leaves and Basil Pests
When gaps or holes in basil leaves have been discovered, the time for action is now! The most frequent assaulters of your precious basil plant leaves are Japanese beetles, slugs and aphids.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are usually found for around a month during the summer. They ravage the tender leaf but do not eat the larger veins of the basil plant, leaving a lacy looking skeleton on your plant. Japanese beetles can be plucked from the basil plant with your fingers and squished or dropped into soapy water to dispose. You may also choose to cover plants with garden fabric to reduce the number of mature insects that feed on them, which can also include the grasshopper.
Slugs or Snails
Slugs, ugh, slugs! Slugs find the basil plant leaves almost as delicious as you do. They create ragged holes in the basil plant leaves after climbing up the plant. While basil plants like mulch to help retain the moisture they enjoy, it is also a conduit for the slugs. To retard those munching slugs, try sprinkling diatomaceous earth over the mulch. The diatomaceous earth scrapes the slug’s skin and causes it to dehydrate and subsequently die. Products such as Bayer Advanced Dual Action Snail and Slug Killer Bait, Sluggo, Escar-Go, and Schultz Slug and Snail Bait must be reapplied after rain or watering. While not totally nontoxic, these products contain iron phosphate, which is significantly less harmful to pets, birds and beneficial insects than the more antiquated metaldehyde-containing products.
Aphids and Soft Bodied Insects
Soft bodied insects such as aphids, spider mites and whiteflies can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps like Bonide Multi Purpose Insect Control Soap, Safer Rose and Flower Insect Killer Concentrate, Safer Insect Killing Soap Concentrate and Concern Insect Killing Soap Concentrate. Most of these pests will be on the underside of the basil leaf and must have direct contact with the soapy spray to effectively eradicate them. If you are interested in using a more environmentally friendly product, you may investigate Azadiractin, which is an extraction naturally produced by the Neem tree, and is also known to gardeners as neem oil. Products which contain Azadiractin include: Align, Azatin, Neemex and Omazin. These products provide the gardener with another option for controlling basil plant marauders. Finally, remove any basil plant leaves with holes in them to avoid contaminating the rest of your plant. Chances are good that those damaged basil plant leaves harbor some type of pest vying for your next batch of Pesto Genovese.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a sun-loving herb valued for its bright green foliage and distinctive flavor. Although basil is usually easy to get along with, it can develop droopy leaves that can ultimately shorten the life of the plant. Read on to learn more about why your basil is starting to wilt and what can be done about it.
Why Does Basil Wilt?
Healthy basil plants require at least eight hours of sunlight every day, well-drained soil, and enough space to allow for plenty of air circulation. If you are meeting the plant’s basic needs and your basil plant keeps falling over anyway, there may be a more serious problem.
Fusarium Wilt
Basil plant droop that appears suddenly on young plants is often caused by fusarium wilt, a fungal disease that causes stunted growth and droopy, wilted or yellow leaves. The first signs of trouble are decreased growth and leaves with a cupped appearance. Eventually, leaves may drop from the plant. Fusarium wilt is difficult to manage and can remain in the soil for eight to 12 years. If you suspect your plant is infected with fusarium, you’ll probably have to start fresh with a new plant in a completely different location. Prevention is the best solution for fusarium wilt. Purchase healthy, disease-resistant plants. If you plant basil seeds, be sure the package indicates the seeds are fusarium tested.
Root Rot
Root rot is another common reason for droopy basil plants. Rot is a water-borne disease generally caused by improper irrigation or poorly drained soil. Let the soil dry slightly between watering, but don’t allow it to become bone dry. If the basil is in a pot, ensure the plant drains thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water.
Leaf Spot
If your basil plant is starting to wilt and you notice brown, water-soaked spots on the leaves, it may be infected by various fungal diseases known as leaf spot. Remove affected leaves at the first sign of infection. To prevent the disease, water at the base of the plant and never use a sprinkler or spray attachment. If the disease isn’t serious, a fungal spray may help.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites and other insects can suck the sap from aphids, which may cause droopy leaves. Most sap-sucking insects are easily removed by spraying the leaves with an insecticidal soap spray. Use the spray strictly according to directions. Never spray the plant when the sun is directly on the foliage, or when temperatures are above 90 degrees F./32 degrees C.
Why Does Basil Wilt?
Healthy basil plants require at least eight hours of sunlight every day, well-drained soil, and enough space to allow for plenty of air circulation. If you are meeting the plant’s basic needs and your basil plant keeps falling over anyway, there may be a more serious problem.
Fusarium Wilt
Basil plant droop that appears suddenly on young plants is often caused by fusarium wilt, a fungal disease that causes stunted growth and droopy, wilted or yellow leaves. The first signs of trouble are decreased growth and leaves with a cupped appearance. Eventually, leaves may drop from the plant. Fusarium wilt is difficult to manage and can remain in the soil for eight to 12 years. If you suspect your plant is infected with fusarium, you’ll probably have to start fresh with a new plant in a completely different location. Prevention is the best solution for fusarium wilt. Purchase healthy, disease-resistant plants. If you plant basil seeds, be sure the package indicates the seeds are fusarium tested.
Root Rot
Root rot is another common reason for droopy basil plants. Rot is a water-borne disease generally caused by improper irrigation or poorly drained soil. Let the soil dry slightly between watering, but don’t allow it to become bone dry. If the basil is in a pot, ensure the plant drains thoroughly after watering and never let the pot stand in water.
Leaf Spot
If your basil plant is starting to wilt and you notice brown, water-soaked spots on the leaves, it may be infected by various fungal diseases known as leaf spot. Remove affected leaves at the first sign of infection. To prevent the disease, water at the base of the plant and never use a sprinkler or spray attachment. If the disease isn’t serious, a fungal spray may help.
Pests
Aphids, spider mites and other insects can suck the sap from aphids, which may cause droopy leaves. Most sap-sucking insects are easily removed by spraying the leaves with an insecticidal soap spray. Use the spray strictly according to directions. Never spray the plant when the sun is directly on the foliage, or when temperatures are above 90 degrees F./32 degrees C.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a wonderfully versatile annual herb that is native to southern Asia and the islands of the South Pacific. As with other herbs, basil is easy to grow and with ideal conditions quite prolific. Even so, basil plants can have a number of issues; among these are basil plants with woody stems. If you have basil stems turning into wood, read on to learn about troubleshooting woody stems in basil.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Versatile and easy to grow, basil is an attractive culinary herb valued for its aromatic leaves, which are used either dry or fresh. Although basil is usually grown as an annual, it is suitable for growing year round in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and above. Although the herb is relatively trouble-free, it is susceptible to certain pests and diseases that can cause yellowish leaves on basil plants.
What Causes Basil Leaves to Turn Yellow?
There are a number of reasons for a basil plant turning yellow, and determining the reason isn’t always easy.
Improper watering – Root rot, a result of too much water, is one of the most common reasons for yellow leaves on basil plants. Water basil only when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry, and remember that slightly dry soil is healthier than soggy soil. As a general rule, one deep watering every seven to 10 days is adequate. If you grow basil in a container, be sure the pot has at least one drainage hole. Fungal disease – Although several fungal diseases can cause yellow leaves on basil plants, downy mildew is one of the most common. Downy mildew is a fast-spreading fungus recognized by yellowish basil leaves and a fuzzy, gray or brown growth. If you catch the problem early, you may be able to stop the spread by clipping affected growth. However, badly affected plants should be removed and disposed of carefully.
Growing conditions – Chilly temperatures are another reason for yellowish basil leaves. Basil prefers daytime temps above 70 F. (21 C.). Nighttime temperatures should be above 50 F. (10 C.) Lack of sun is yet another common cause of yellowish basil leaves. Basil prefers bright sunlight for six to eight hours per day. Basil grown indoors will likely need artificial light during the winter, ideally for 10 to 12 hours per day. Aphids – Aphids are tiny pests that suck the juice from tender foliage, thus causing yellow leaves on basil plants. Look for aphids on the undersides of leaves and on the joints of stems and leaves. Aphids are easy to control with insecticidal soap, but be careful not to apply the soap when the sun is directly on the leaves or on hot days, as the soap can scorch the plant.
Root knot nematodes – These small, soil-dwelling pests can cause yellowish basil leaves and small galls on the roots. The best recourse is to harvest the plant and use the healthy leaves. Next time, plant resistant varieties in soil not affected by nematodes. Lack of nutrients – Basil is a hardy plant that does well in poor soil, but it still requires nutrients in order to thrive. Fertilize basil regularly to prevent yellowish basil leaves, using an all-purpose balanced fertilizer.
What Causes Basil Leaves to Turn Yellow?
There are a number of reasons for a basil plant turning yellow, and determining the reason isn’t always easy.
Improper watering – Root rot, a result of too much water, is one of the most common reasons for yellow leaves on basil plants. Water basil only when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry, and remember that slightly dry soil is healthier than soggy soil. As a general rule, one deep watering every seven to 10 days is adequate. If you grow basil in a container, be sure the pot has at least one drainage hole. Fungal disease – Although several fungal diseases can cause yellow leaves on basil plants, downy mildew is one of the most common. Downy mildew is a fast-spreading fungus recognized by yellowish basil leaves and a fuzzy, gray or brown growth. If you catch the problem early, you may be able to stop the spread by clipping affected growth. However, badly affected plants should be removed and disposed of carefully.
Growing conditions – Chilly temperatures are another reason for yellowish basil leaves. Basil prefers daytime temps above 70 F. (21 C.). Nighttime temperatures should be above 50 F. (10 C.) Lack of sun is yet another common cause of yellowish basil leaves. Basil prefers bright sunlight for six to eight hours per day. Basil grown indoors will likely need artificial light during the winter, ideally for 10 to 12 hours per day. Aphids – Aphids are tiny pests that suck the juice from tender foliage, thus causing yellow leaves on basil plants. Look for aphids on the undersides of leaves and on the joints of stems and leaves. Aphids are easy to control with insecticidal soap, but be careful not to apply the soap when the sun is directly on the leaves or on hot days, as the soap can scorch the plant.
Root knot nematodes – These small, soil-dwelling pests can cause yellowish basil leaves and small galls on the roots. The best recourse is to harvest the plant and use the healthy leaves. Next time, plant resistant varieties in soil not affected by nematodes. Lack of nutrients – Basil is a hardy plant that does well in poor soil, but it still requires nutrients in order to thrive. Fertilize basil regularly to prevent yellowish basil leaves, using an all-purpose balanced fertilizer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is often referred to as the king of herbs. Basil plants are certainly one of the most popular herbs grown in the home garden. Growing basil outdoors or in a container is very easy to do if you follow these simple steps for how to grow basil.
Tips for Growing Basil
Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you’re growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors. If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up. If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly. Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even a light frost will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger of frost has passed.
Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest! Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so. As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.
Tips for Growing Basil
Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you’re growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.
Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing to remember for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight. Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors. If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up. If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly. Wait till the temperature is right. When growing basil outdoors, it is very important to remember that basil is very sensitive to cold and even a light frost will kill it. Do not plant seeds or basil plants until all danger of frost has passed.
Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest! Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so. As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Learn About the ZZ Plant
The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to Zz. ZZ plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
How to Grow ZZ Plants
ZZ plants do best in bright to moderate, indirect light but will do fine in extremely low levels of light. This plant makes an ideal plant for a window-less office or bathroom where it will only receive small amounts of fluorescent light. While ZZ plants can take direct light, you may see some scalding on the leaves if it is left in direct light. Additionally, curling leaves, yellowing and leaning can all be an indication of too much light. When you notice curling taking place, it typically means the plant is trying to move away from the light source. Move the plant to a shadier location or farther away from the light source. You can also try filtering the light with curtains or blinds if moving the plant is not feasible.
Caring for a ZZ Plant
ZZ plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly. ZZ plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
Learn About the ZZ Plant
The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to Zz. ZZ plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
How to Grow ZZ Plants
ZZ plants do best in bright to moderate, indirect light but will do fine in extremely low levels of light. This plant makes an ideal plant for a window-less office or bathroom where it will only receive small amounts of fluorescent light. While ZZ plants can take direct light, you may see some scalding on the leaves if it is left in direct light. Additionally, curling leaves, yellowing and leaning can all be an indication of too much light. When you notice curling taking place, it typically means the plant is trying to move away from the light source. Move the plant to a shadier location or farther away from the light source. You can also try filtering the light with curtains or blinds if moving the plant is not feasible.
Caring for a ZZ Plant
ZZ plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly. ZZ plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
ZZ plant is a slow growing, reliable performer that is doggedly loyal even when you mistreat it. It is such an easy plant that creating more of them to share with friends and family seems like a good idea. Propagating ZZ plants is easy but can take up nine months or more. Learn how to root ZZ plant cuttings for a better chance at success.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you’re looking to increase your collection of houseplants without spending any money, propagating spiderettes, (spider plant babies), from an existing plant is as easy as it gets. Even kids or brand new gardeners can easily learn how to root spider plantlets. Read on to learn more about propagating your spider plants.
Spider Plant Propagation
When you’re ready to propagate your spider plant babies, you have the option of rooting the plantlets by growing directly in soil or you can choose to root them in water.
Growing Plantlets from Spider Plants
There are a couple of ways to plant spider plant babies, and they’re both easy peasy. Look closely at the spiderettes dangling from your adult plant and you’ll see little knob-like protrusions and tiny roots on the bottom of each spiderette. Spider plant propagation simply involves planting the spiderette in a pot filled with any lightweight potting mix. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. You can leave the baby attached to the parent plant until the new plant takes root, then separate it from the parent by snipping the runner. Alternatively, go ahead and separate the baby from the parent plant by snipping the runner immediately. Spiderettes will root easily either way, but if you have a hanging spider plant, the latter is the best way to go.
How to Root Spider Plantlets in Water
Planting spiderettes in potting soil is the easiest and quickest way to propagate spider plant babies. However, if you like, you can stick the spiderette in a glass of water for a week or two, then plant the rooted spiderette in a pot of soil. This is an unnecessary step, but some people enjoy rooting a new plant the old-fashioned way – in a jar on the kitchen windowsill.
Caring for Spider Plant Babies
If you want a thick, bushy plant, start several spider plant babies in the same pot. Similarly, if your adult spider plant isn’t as full as you would like, plant a couple of spiderettes alongside the mama plant. Water the fledgling spider babies as needed to keep the soil slightly moist, but never saturated, until healthy new growth indicates the plant has rooted. Your new spider plant is well on its way, and you can resume normal care.
Spider Plant Propagation
When you’re ready to propagate your spider plant babies, you have the option of rooting the plantlets by growing directly in soil or you can choose to root them in water.
Growing Plantlets from Spider Plants
There are a couple of ways to plant spider plant babies, and they’re both easy peasy. Look closely at the spiderettes dangling from your adult plant and you’ll see little knob-like protrusions and tiny roots on the bottom of each spiderette. Spider plant propagation simply involves planting the spiderette in a pot filled with any lightweight potting mix. Be sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom. You can leave the baby attached to the parent plant until the new plant takes root, then separate it from the parent by snipping the runner. Alternatively, go ahead and separate the baby from the parent plant by snipping the runner immediately. Spiderettes will root easily either way, but if you have a hanging spider plant, the latter is the best way to go.
How to Root Spider Plantlets in Water
Planting spiderettes in potting soil is the easiest and quickest way to propagate spider plant babies. However, if you like, you can stick the spiderette in a glass of water for a week or two, then plant the rooted spiderette in a pot of soil. This is an unnecessary step, but some people enjoy rooting a new plant the old-fashioned way – in a jar on the kitchen windowsill.
Caring for Spider Plant Babies
If you want a thick, bushy plant, start several spider plant babies in the same pot. Similarly, if your adult spider plant isn’t as full as you would like, plant a couple of spiderettes alongside the mama plant. Water the fledgling spider babies as needed to keep the soil slightly moist, but never saturated, until healthy new growth indicates the plant has rooted. Your new spider plant is well on its way, and you can resume normal care.
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Michele Ondra：Thanks! I’ve been wondering how to do this.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Most people are familiar with spider plants as houseplants because they are so tolerant and easy to grow. They tolerate low light, infrequent watering and help clean indoor air, making them very popular. They also propagate easily from the little plantlets (spiders) that grow from their flower stalks. One small spider plant can very quickly lead to many more. You may have wondered at one time or another, “can spider plants be outdoors?” Well, in the right conditions, growing spider plants outdoors is possible. Read more to learn how to grow a spider plant outside.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
How to Grow a Spider Plant Outside
The easiest way to grow spider plants outside is just to move your potted spider plant outdoors when weather permits and indoors when it is too cold. Spider plants make excellent plants for hanging baskets, with small white, star-shaped flowers arching down on long flower stalks. After flowering, grass-like new little plantlets form on these flower stalks.
These little spider-like hanging plantlets are why Chlorophytum comosun is commonly called spider plant. The plantlets are like the runners on strawberry plants and will root wherever they touch soil, creating new spider plants. To propagate, simply snip the “spiders” off and stick them in soil. Native to South Africa, spider plants need a warm, tropical climate to survive outside. They can be grown like a perennial in zones 9-11 and as an annual in cooler climates. Spider plants outside cannot tolerate any frost. If planting them as annuals in cooler climates, be sure to wait until there’s no danger of frost. Spider plants prefer filtered sunlight, but can grow in part-shade to shade. They tend to get sunburnt in full sun or afternoon sun. Spider plants outside make excellent spreading groundcovers and border plants around trees. In zones 10-11, it can grow and spread aggressively. Spider plants have thick rhizomes that store water, making them tolerate some drought. Spider plants can also make excellent trailing plants for large container arrangements.
Care of Spider Plants Outdoors
Growing spider plants outdoors can be as easy as growing them inside. Start them early indoors, giving the roots time to develop. Spider plants need well-draining, slightly acidic soil. They prefer dappled shade and cannot handle direct afternoon sun. When young, they need moist soil. Spider plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in city water, so they perform best with rain water or distilled water. They also don’t like too much fertilizer, use a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer only once a month or bi-monthly.
Spider plants outside are especially susceptible to aphids, scale, whiteflies and spider mites. Use an insecticidal soap, especially if they are being brought inside for the winter. I use a homemade dish soap dip, made from ¼ cup Dawn dish soap, ½ cup mouth wash and a gallon of water. If growing spider plants outdoors as an annual, you can dig them up and over winter them in pots inside. If you have too many, give them away to friends. I have planted them in Halloween cups and handed them out at Halloween parties, telling kids they can grow their own creepy spider plants.
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