文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While usually an easy plant to grow in rock gardens and hot, dry areas, agave can be susceptible to bacterial and fungal rots if exposed to too much moisture and humidity. Cool, wet spring weather that rapidly changes to hot, humid summer can cause a surge in fungal growth and pest populations. Mid to late summer crown rot of agave plants can be common in cooler climates and potted plants. Read on to learn what you can do for agave plants with crown rot.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Agave is a desert plant, native to Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. While generally a low maintenance, easy-to-grow plant, agave can be susceptible to fungal and bacterial rots, as well as pest problems such as the agave snout weevil and the agave plant bug (Caulotops barberi). If you have noticed bugs eating agave plants in your landscape, continue reading to learn more about Caulotops barberi pests and controlling agave plant bugs in the garden.
What are Caulotops Barberi Pests?
In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.
These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible.
Agave Plant Bug Control
Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
What are Caulotops Barberi Pests?
In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.
These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible.
Agave Plant Bug Control
Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Brightly colored zinnias are a welcome sight in summer gardens. Once the weather warms up, zinnias are easy to grow in sunny flowerbeds and borders. They are attractive whether grown en masse or in clumps of three, five or seven plants in a mixed border. Not only are they easy to grow, they have a long vase life too, making them a favorite among veteran gardeners.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Marigolds (Tagetes sp.) are an easy-to-care-for, colorful annual, often used for borders, containers and color massing. Nearly all marigolds bloom heartily from early summer until the first hard frost, according to the Clemson Cooperative Extension, preferring full sun and healthy, well-draining soil. Other plants grow well with marigolds. There are several ways to select plants that grow well with marigolds.
Companion Planting
Perhaps the best-known example of companion planting is the Native American method of planting corn, beans and squash together. These "three sisters" complement and protect each other, making all three plants thrive in the same location. Marigolds are widely used in companion planting and are thought to deter many pests. According to the Alabama Cooperative Extension System, marigolds help keep nematodes, whiteflies, Mexican bean beetles and tomato hornworms at bay. Marigolds make a fine companion for any plant plagued by these pests, including tomatoes, corn, potatoes, beans, and hot-house and greenhouse plants.
Complimentary Colors
Another way to select plants to place beside marigolds is choosing those of a complementary color. As the DePaul University explains it, in art theory, a complementary color is one that shares no color with its complement. For example, green complements red because it's made of blue and yellow while red is not. Following this theory, yellow and orange marigolds "pop" beautifully alongside blue and purplish flowers like bachelor buttons, alliums, asters, anemones, bluebells, columbine, delphinium, hydrangea, iris, pansies, phlox, salvia, violets and veronica.
Plants with Height
Because marigolds are short plants growing 6 inches to 4 feet tall, according to the West Virginia Extension Service, they also work well in front of taller plants. Marigolds, particularly taller varieties, help hide unattractive, bare stems and add interesting layers to the garden. From this point of view, iris, morning glories, lavender, baptisia and clematis or any vine are excellent choices. Marigolds also do a nice job of covering the soil in a pot containing taller plants like dwarf trees.
Fill in Plants
Planners use marigolds to cover up the location of spring-blooming plants, especially those that die back completely after blooming, as many spring bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, crocus and scilla. If planted when the spring bloomers begin dying back, marigolds help hide the dying plants and offer more green foliage to the garden. Rarely do marigolds need fill in plants themselves, since most varieties bloom until late fall.
Companion Planting
Perhaps the best-known example of companion planting is the Native American method of planting corn, beans and squash together. These "three sisters" complement and protect each other, making all three plants thrive in the same location. Marigolds are widely used in companion planting and are thought to deter many pests. According to the Alabama Cooperative Extension System, marigolds help keep nematodes, whiteflies, Mexican bean beetles and tomato hornworms at bay. Marigolds make a fine companion for any plant plagued by these pests, including tomatoes, corn, potatoes, beans, and hot-house and greenhouse plants.
Complimentary Colors
Another way to select plants to place beside marigolds is choosing those of a complementary color. As the DePaul University explains it, in art theory, a complementary color is one that shares no color with its complement. For example, green complements red because it's made of blue and yellow while red is not. Following this theory, yellow and orange marigolds "pop" beautifully alongside blue and purplish flowers like bachelor buttons, alliums, asters, anemones, bluebells, columbine, delphinium, hydrangea, iris, pansies, phlox, salvia, violets and veronica.
Plants with Height
Because marigolds are short plants growing 6 inches to 4 feet tall, according to the West Virginia Extension Service, they also work well in front of taller plants. Marigolds, particularly taller varieties, help hide unattractive, bare stems and add interesting layers to the garden. From this point of view, iris, morning glories, lavender, baptisia and clematis or any vine are excellent choices. Marigolds also do a nice job of covering the soil in a pot containing taller plants like dwarf trees.
Fill in Plants
Planners use marigolds to cover up the location of spring-blooming plants, especially those that die back completely after blooming, as many spring bulbs, such as hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, crocus and scilla. If planted when the spring bloomers begin dying back, marigolds help hide the dying plants and offer more green foliage to the garden. Rarely do marigolds need fill in plants themselves, since most varieties bloom until late fall.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Few annuals are as dependably cheerful as marigolds (Tagetes patula). Easy to grow and long-blooming, these reliable plants start flowering in early summer and continue until frost if their old blooms are snipped. They also attract butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. Marigolds grow best if watered deeply at least once a week.
About Marigolds
Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply.
Watering New Plants
Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation.
Fertilizer Precaution
Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
About Marigolds
Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply.
Watering New Plants
Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation.
Fertilizer Precaution
Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lily, or Spathiphyllum, is a common and easy-to-grow houseplant. They are not true lilies but in the Arum family and native to tropical Central and South America. In the wild, peace lilies are understory plants that grow in moisture rich humus and in partially shaded light. Heat, water levels, lighting and disease are potential causes for drooping peace lily plants. Once you discover the cause, it is generally easy to revive a wilting peace lily. But first you need to put your Sherlock Holmes hat on and investigate the reason a peace lily keeps wilting.
My Peace Lily Keeps Wilting
Peace lily is an attractive foliage plant that produces a flower-like spathe, which is a modified leaf that encloses the real flower, a spadix. While these plants are known for their ease of care, occasional issues may arise. One of the most common is droopy leaves on peace lily. Wilting peace lilies can occur due to several conditions. It is important to look for pest and disease issues, but the problem could also be cultural.
Watering issues
Spathiphyllum are Aroids, which means they are known for their glossy foliage and characteristic spathe. Peace lilies grow naturally in tropical rainforests. These plants need water but once per week is usually enough. Water until the moisture comes out the drainage holes in the plant’s container. This will ensure that the root ball is getting moisture. When you repot the plant, separate the roots of the ball out into the new soil so they can gather moisture. One common mistake is to water into a saucer and let the moisture percolate up into the roots. This is time consuming for the plant and it may not be getting adequate moisture. Additionally, the standing water in the saucer may induce root rot and attract insect pests. Good watering practices can quickly revive a wilting peace lily.
Lighting, temperature and soil
Correct cultural care needs to be given to peace lily plants. Consistently wilting peace lilies are often the result of simple cultural issues that are easily corrected. Place plants in indirect but bright sunlight. Keep them in a container that is twice as large as the root ball. Wild peace lilies live in warm, tropical regions and require temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. Most thrive in average indoor temperatures but exposure to extreme heat or cold can cause drooping peace lily plants. Move any plants that are near the furnace or a drafty window or door. Good, well-draining soil is essential. Soil with a high amount of clay can create unfavorably boggy conditions and those with too much grit or sand will simply drain away the moisture added before the plant can uptake it. The best potting soil for a peace lily is a fine, porous mixture containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.
Pests and disease
When water levels and other cultural issues have been adequately addressed and the plant is still stressed, look for signs of pests or disease. Mealybugs are the most common pest problem. They can be seen as cottony bits of fluff adhering to the plant or in the soil. Their feeding behavior on plant sap reduces plant vigor and disrupts the flow of nutrients and moisture to foliage, causing discoloration and wilting. Sharp sprays of water to rinse off the insects or the application of alcohol directly to the pests can correct an infestation. Cylindrocladium root rot is the most prevalent disease of Spathiphyllum. It occurs in the warm summer months and causes chlorotic areas and wilted leaves. Remove the plant from soil and treat the roots with fungicide. Then repot in a sterile pot with clean soil. Several other pathogens may be harbored in contaminated potting soil. These are generally fungal and may be addressed in a similar manner as Cylindrocladium.
My Peace Lily Keeps Wilting
Peace lily is an attractive foliage plant that produces a flower-like spathe, which is a modified leaf that encloses the real flower, a spadix. While these plants are known for their ease of care, occasional issues may arise. One of the most common is droopy leaves on peace lily. Wilting peace lilies can occur due to several conditions. It is important to look for pest and disease issues, but the problem could also be cultural.
Watering issues
Spathiphyllum are Aroids, which means they are known for their glossy foliage and characteristic spathe. Peace lilies grow naturally in tropical rainforests. These plants need water but once per week is usually enough. Water until the moisture comes out the drainage holes in the plant’s container. This will ensure that the root ball is getting moisture. When you repot the plant, separate the roots of the ball out into the new soil so they can gather moisture. One common mistake is to water into a saucer and let the moisture percolate up into the roots. This is time consuming for the plant and it may not be getting adequate moisture. Additionally, the standing water in the saucer may induce root rot and attract insect pests. Good watering practices can quickly revive a wilting peace lily.
Lighting, temperature and soil
Correct cultural care needs to be given to peace lily plants. Consistently wilting peace lilies are often the result of simple cultural issues that are easily corrected. Place plants in indirect but bright sunlight. Keep them in a container that is twice as large as the root ball. Wild peace lilies live in warm, tropical regions and require temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. Most thrive in average indoor temperatures but exposure to extreme heat or cold can cause drooping peace lily plants. Move any plants that are near the furnace or a drafty window or door. Good, well-draining soil is essential. Soil with a high amount of clay can create unfavorably boggy conditions and those with too much grit or sand will simply drain away the moisture added before the plant can uptake it. The best potting soil for a peace lily is a fine, porous mixture containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.
Pests and disease
When water levels and other cultural issues have been adequately addressed and the plant is still stressed, look for signs of pests or disease. Mealybugs are the most common pest problem. They can be seen as cottony bits of fluff adhering to the plant or in the soil. Their feeding behavior on plant sap reduces plant vigor and disrupts the flow of nutrients and moisture to foliage, causing discoloration and wilting. Sharp sprays of water to rinse off the insects or the application of alcohol directly to the pests can correct an infestation. Cylindrocladium root rot is the most prevalent disease of Spathiphyllum. It occurs in the warm summer months and causes chlorotic areas and wilted leaves. Remove the plant from soil and treat the roots with fungicide. Then repot in a sterile pot with clean soil. Several other pathogens may be harbored in contaminated potting soil. These are generally fungal and may be addressed in a similar manner as Cylindrocladium.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lilies (Spathiphyllum), also known as closet plants, are a popular choice for offices and homes. When it comes to indoor plants, peace lily plants are some of the easiest to care for. But, while peace lily plant care is easy, proper growing conditions are still important. Let’s take a look at the care of peace lilies.
Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants
Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.
Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering. Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy.
Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
Growing Peace Lily As Houseplants
Peace lilies make excellent houseplants for the home or office. These lovely plants not only brighten up a living space, but are also excellent at cleaning the air of the room they are in. Most commonly, these plants have dark green leaves and white “flowers.” But what most people think of as the flower is actually a specialized leaf bract that grows hooded over the flowers. Like many popular indoor plants, peace lilies enjoy medium to low light. Which kind of light you need to provide will depend more on what you want your peace lily plant to look like. Peace lilies that are placed in more light tend to produce the lovely white spathes and flowers more, while peace lilies in low light will bloom less and will look more like a traditional foliage plant.
Peace Lily Plant Care
One of the most common mistakes in the care of peace lilies is overwatering. Peace lilies are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering, which is one of the most common reasons for a peace lily to die. Because of this, you should never water peace lily plants on a schedule. Rather, you should check them once a week to see if they need to be watered. Simply touch the top of the soil to see if it is dry. If it is, water your peace lily. If the soil is still damp, the plant does not need to be watered. Some people will go so far as to wait until their peace lily is starting to droop before watering their plant. As these plants are very drought tolerant, this method does not harm the plant and will prevent overwatering. Peace lilies do not need frequent fertilizing. Fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer one to two times per year will be enough to keep the plant happy.
Peace lilies also benefit from repotting or dividing when they outgrow their containers. Signs that a peace lily plant has outgrown its container include drooping less than a week after being watered and crowded, deformed leaf growth. If you are repotting, move the plant into a pot that is at least 2 inches larger than its current pot. If you are dividing, use a sharp knife to cut through the center of the rootball and replant each half in its on container. Since the wide leaves on peace lilies tend to be a dust magnet, you should either wash or wipe down the leaves at least once a year. This will help it process sunlight better. Washing the plant can be done by either setting it in the bath and giving it a short shower or by placing it in a sink and letting the tap run over the leaves. Alternatively, the leaves of your peace lily plant can also be wiped down with a damp cloth. Avoid using commercial leaf shine products, however, as these can clog the pores of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
For unique interest in the home, look for the Fittonia nerve plant. When purchasing these plants, be aware it may also be called the mosaic plant or painted net leaf. Growing nerve plants is easy and so is nerve plant care.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
Fittonia Nerve Houseplants
The nerve plant, or Fittonia argyroneura, from the Acanthaceae (Acanthus) family, is a tropically found plant with striking leaves of pink and green, white and green, or green and red. Foliage is primarily olive green with veining taking on the alternate hue. For specific color characteristics, look for other Fittonia nerve houseplant, such as F. argyroneura with silver white veins or F. pearcei, the carmine pink-veined beauty.
Named for its 19th century discoverers, the botanists Elizabeth and Sarah May Fitton, the Fittonia nerve plant does indeed flower. The blooms are insignificant reddish to white spikes and tend to blend in with the remainder of the foliage. The blooms of the nerve plant are rarely seen when it is grown indoors as a houseplant. Hailing from Peru and other areas of the South American rain forest, this colorful houseplant craves high humidity but not too much irrigation. This little beauty does well in terrariums, hanging baskets, dish gardens or even as a ground cover in the right climate. The foliage is low growing and trailing with oval-shaped leaves on rooting mat forming stems. To propagate the plant, these rooted stem pieces may be divided or tip cuttings may be taken to create new Fittonia nerve houseplants.
Nerve Plant Care
As the nerve plant originates in a tropical setting, it flourishes within a high humidity environment. Misting may be required to maintain humid-like conditions. Fittonia nerve plant likes well drained moist soil, but not too wet. Water moderately and let growing nerve plants dry out between waterings. Use room temperature water on the plant to avoid shock. Growing about 3 to 6 inches by 12 to 18 inches or longer, the Fittonia nerve plant tolerates bright light to shade conditions but will truly flourish with bright, indirect light. Low light exposure will cause these plants to revert to green, losing the veins vibrant splashes of color. Growing nerve plants should be placed in a warm area, avoiding drafts which will shock the plant just as water that is too cold or hot. Think rain forest conditions and treat your Fittonia nerve houseplants accordingly. Feed as recommended for tropical houseplants per the instructions of your fertilizer brand. The trailing nature of the plant can lead to a straggly appearance. Prune the tips of the nerve plant to create a bushier plant.
Nerve Plant Problems
Nerve plant problems are few; however, as mentioned above, avoid overwatering as this can lead to root rot. Xanthomonas leaf spot, which causes necropsy of the veins, and mosaic virus may also afflict the plant. Pests may include aphids, mealybugs and thrips.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It’s not only attractive and easy to grow, but the miracle plant produces a very interesting berry that upon eating makes things taste sweeter. Learning more about growing miracle berries can make it easier for you to experience this unusual phenomenon for yourself. Keep reading to learn about caring for a miracle fruit plant.
Miracle Plant Info: What Is a Miracle Berry?
Miracle berry (Synsepalum dulcificum) is an evergreen shrub that is native to tropical West Africa. Outside of the tropics, it is a houseplant that is also known as sweet berry and miracle fruit. This interesting plant bears attractive and edible red fruit that are ¾ to 1 inch long with a seed surrounded by fleshy pulp.
The miracle that this fruit performs is to make everything taste sweet. When you eat the fruit and allow the pulp to coat the inside of your mouth, it masks the real taste of bitter foods for a few minutes to several hours, depending on how much fruit you eat. This includes foods that are normally very sour, such as vinegar or lemons. Scientists are still unsure of how the fruit alters a food’s taste, but they think that it may have something to do with a protein with sugar molecules attached. The receptors on the taste buds seem to be temporarily altered when the fruit is eaten as a result of these molecules.
Miracle Berry Growing
In its native environment, the plant will reach up to 20 feet in height at maturity but only 5 feet when grown indoors, so make sure to locate it in a suitable area to accommodate this fairly large size. Growing miracle berries indoors requires a room with very bright light. However, it can be placed outside in a shady location when the weather is warm. This humidity-loving plant thrives when placed in a room with a humidifier or with a clear plastic bag wrapped around it to conserve moisture. Misting daily with water or setting the plant on a water-filled pebble tray can also help with raising humidity. Use only well drained, slightly acidic soil whenever you are growing miracle berries.
Caring for a Miracle Fruit Plant
Caring for a miracle fruit plant is not difficult as long as you keep the soil acidity constant. This can be done by using peat and perlite planting mediums and providing a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Water the plant regularly but do not let the plant sit in water or it may become waterlogged and may develop root rot. Always feel the soil before watering. Now that you the answer to, “What is miracle berry?” you can begin your own miracle berry growing and explore the wonder of this interesting fruit.
Miracle Plant Info: What Is a Miracle Berry?
Miracle berry (Synsepalum dulcificum) is an evergreen shrub that is native to tropical West Africa. Outside of the tropics, it is a houseplant that is also known as sweet berry and miracle fruit. This interesting plant bears attractive and edible red fruit that are ¾ to 1 inch long with a seed surrounded by fleshy pulp.
The miracle that this fruit performs is to make everything taste sweet. When you eat the fruit and allow the pulp to coat the inside of your mouth, it masks the real taste of bitter foods for a few minutes to several hours, depending on how much fruit you eat. This includes foods that are normally very sour, such as vinegar or lemons. Scientists are still unsure of how the fruit alters a food’s taste, but they think that it may have something to do with a protein with sugar molecules attached. The receptors on the taste buds seem to be temporarily altered when the fruit is eaten as a result of these molecules.
Miracle Berry Growing
In its native environment, the plant will reach up to 20 feet in height at maturity but only 5 feet when grown indoors, so make sure to locate it in a suitable area to accommodate this fairly large size. Growing miracle berries indoors requires a room with very bright light. However, it can be placed outside in a shady location when the weather is warm. This humidity-loving plant thrives when placed in a room with a humidifier or with a clear plastic bag wrapped around it to conserve moisture. Misting daily with water or setting the plant on a water-filled pebble tray can also help with raising humidity. Use only well drained, slightly acidic soil whenever you are growing miracle berries.
Caring for a Miracle Fruit Plant
Caring for a miracle fruit plant is not difficult as long as you keep the soil acidity constant. This can be done by using peat and perlite planting mediums and providing a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Water the plant regularly but do not let the plant sit in water or it may become waterlogged and may develop root rot. Always feel the soil before watering. Now that you the answer to, “What is miracle berry?” you can begin your own miracle berry growing and explore the wonder of this interesting fruit.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lucky bamboo plants (Dracaena sanderiana) are common houseplants, and are fun and easy to grow. Indoors, they can quickly reach a height of 3 feet (91 cm.) or more, prompting gardeners to ask, “Can you prune lucky bamboo?” Fortunately, the answer to that question is a resounding “yes!”—and it is a cinch to do.
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It is easy to grow the Kalanchoe chandelier plant — so easy, in fact, you have to learn to control its spread as a part of caring for chandelier plants. Growing Kalanchoe delagoensis can be worth all this trouble when you learn how to keep it under control, especially when the orange blooms appear. Kalanchoe delagoensis, also known as Kalanchoe chandelier or mother of millions (and is often confused with mother of thousands, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), is an upright succulent with creeping tendrils bunching together on a single stem. This offers an unusual effect in the container or even in a portion of the sunny garden. Kalanchoe chandelier is hardy in drought stricken, desert areas where thriving plant life may be limited. This Kalanchoe species can exist on limited seasonal rainfall, storing water for existence due to succulent capabilities.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Ivy can make a wonderful, bright light houseplant. It can grow long and lush and bring a bit of the outdoors inside. Growing ivy indoors is easy as long as you know what makes an ivy plant happy. Let’s learn a little bit more about ivy and proper ivy plant care.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Fat juicy leaves and translucent flesh are the hallmarks of Haworthia window plant. Not all Haworthia have the see-through leaves, but those that do are spectacular specimens of the genus. Learning how to grow Haworthia is relatively easy, as they are a low maintenance and hardy little plant. Caring for window plants is very much like caring for their cousins, the Aloes.
For a long time, Haworthia was thought to belong to the Aloe family, but its class was reassigned in the early 1800’s as a more thorough breakdown of plant genera was undertaken. Not all plants in the genera have the window pane leaves with their opaque fleshy leaves and rich green interiors; the majority of the plants in the genus are small succulents with a low growth habit and similar cultivation requirements.
Haworthia Window Plant
The tiny succulents are native to USDA zones 9 to 11. They come in many forms, but the varieties with see-through foliage are usually comprised of triangular thick pads with an interior like the inside of a green gumdrop. Some species have a white band along the edge of the leaf and others have red tips. Haworthia care, no matter the species, is easy and minimal. They are best used in containers as interior plants but you can bring them outdoors in summer. In fact, succulent window leaved plants lend their candy-like appearance to a host of container gardening possibilities. In certain light, you can get a glimpse of the interior of window plants — the luscious flesh that comprises these water storing succulents.
How to Grow Haworthia
If you’re lucky enough to live in the warm zones, plant your window-leaved plants outside in full sun where soil is gritty and well draining. For most gardeners, this species is limited to indoor growth. Choose a container that has excellent drainage and use a cactus mix or blend of half potting soil and half grit such as sand or perlite. The container should be shallow, as the root system on window leaved plants is not deep. Place the potted succulent in a bright area with some protection from the hottest rays of the day. Water weekly during the summer or once the top of the soil has dried out. In winter, suspend watering except once per month.
Caring for Window Leaved Plants
Haworthia has no notable pests or diseases. When soil is kept too moist, soil gnats are common. Fungal or rot issues also ensue in plants that are kept in high humidity areas, dimly lit rooms or overwatered. Overwatering is probably the biggest cause of failure to thrive with this easy to grow plant. Keep your plant where it is 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.) for best growth. Fertilize once in fall and once in spring. Rarely, you may get one or two small white flowers if your Haworthia window plant is really happy. Repot every two to three years to keep the root system healthy and soil at its peak.
For a long time, Haworthia was thought to belong to the Aloe family, but its class was reassigned in the early 1800’s as a more thorough breakdown of plant genera was undertaken. Not all plants in the genera have the window pane leaves with their opaque fleshy leaves and rich green interiors; the majority of the plants in the genus are small succulents with a low growth habit and similar cultivation requirements.
Haworthia Window Plant
The tiny succulents are native to USDA zones 9 to 11. They come in many forms, but the varieties with see-through foliage are usually comprised of triangular thick pads with an interior like the inside of a green gumdrop. Some species have a white band along the edge of the leaf and others have red tips. Haworthia care, no matter the species, is easy and minimal. They are best used in containers as interior plants but you can bring them outdoors in summer. In fact, succulent window leaved plants lend their candy-like appearance to a host of container gardening possibilities. In certain light, you can get a glimpse of the interior of window plants — the luscious flesh that comprises these water storing succulents.
How to Grow Haworthia
If you’re lucky enough to live in the warm zones, plant your window-leaved plants outside in full sun where soil is gritty and well draining. For most gardeners, this species is limited to indoor growth. Choose a container that has excellent drainage and use a cactus mix or blend of half potting soil and half grit such as sand or perlite. The container should be shallow, as the root system on window leaved plants is not deep. Place the potted succulent in a bright area with some protection from the hottest rays of the day. Water weekly during the summer or once the top of the soil has dried out. In winter, suspend watering except once per month.
Caring for Window Leaved Plants
Haworthia has no notable pests or diseases. When soil is kept too moist, soil gnats are common. Fungal or rot issues also ensue in plants that are kept in high humidity areas, dimly lit rooms or overwatered. Overwatering is probably the biggest cause of failure to thrive with this easy to grow plant. Keep your plant where it is 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.) for best growth. Fertilize once in fall and once in spring. Rarely, you may get one or two small white flowers if your Haworthia window plant is really happy. Repot every two to three years to keep the root system healthy and soil at its peak.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Yikes! My houseplant is dropping leaves! Houseplant leaf drop isn’t always easy to diagnose, as there are a number of possible reasons for this worrisome problem. Read on to learn what to do when leaves are falling off houseplants. Before you get too upset about a houseplant dropping leaves, keep in mind that houseplant leaf drop may not even be a problem. Even healthy houseplants drop leaves from time to time – especially the lower leaves.
However, if leaves falling from houseplants aren’t replaced by healthy ones, consider the following possibilities:
Environmental changes: Many plants are extremely sensitive about changes in their environment, including drastic differences in temperature, light or irrigation. This often happens when a new plant is moved from a greenhouse environment to your home, when outdoor plants are moved indoors for the winter, or after a plant is repotted or divided. Sometimes, a plant may rebel when it’s moved to a different room. Often (but not always), houseplant leaf drop due to environmental changes is temporary and the plant will rebound.
Temperature: Often, excessive heat or cold drafts are to blame for a houseplant dropping leaves. Keep plants away from drafty doors and windows. Be careful of placing plants on windowsills, which may be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. Keep plants away from fireplaces, air conditioners and heat vents.
Pests: Insects aren’t typically the most common reason for leaves falling form houseplants, but it still pays to take a close look at the leaves. Watch for scale insects, mealybugs and tiny spider mites, which are difficult to see with the naked eye. Although some houseplant pests can be removed with a toothpick or cotton swab, most are easily treated with insecticidal soap spray.
Fertility problems: If you notice leaves are turning yellow before they fall, the plant may be lacking certain nutrients. Fertilize regularly during spring and summer using a product formulated for indoor plants.
Water: Don’t jump to the conclusion that dry soil is to blame when leaves are falling off houseplants, as the problem may be due to either over- or under-watering. Although some indoor plants like consistently moist (but never soggy) soil, most plants shouldn’t be watered until the top of the potting mix feels slightly dry. Use lukewarm water, as very cold water may cause houseplant leaf drop, especially during the winter months.
Humidity: Certain plants are prone to leaf drop when the air is very dry. A humidity tray with a layer of wet pebbles is one effective way to rectify low humidity. It may also help to group plants together.
However, if leaves falling from houseplants aren’t replaced by healthy ones, consider the following possibilities:
Environmental changes: Many plants are extremely sensitive about changes in their environment, including drastic differences in temperature, light or irrigation. This often happens when a new plant is moved from a greenhouse environment to your home, when outdoor plants are moved indoors for the winter, or after a plant is repotted or divided. Sometimes, a plant may rebel when it’s moved to a different room. Often (but not always), houseplant leaf drop due to environmental changes is temporary and the plant will rebound.
Temperature: Often, excessive heat or cold drafts are to blame for a houseplant dropping leaves. Keep plants away from drafty doors and windows. Be careful of placing plants on windowsills, which may be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. Keep plants away from fireplaces, air conditioners and heat vents.
Pests: Insects aren’t typically the most common reason for leaves falling form houseplants, but it still pays to take a close look at the leaves. Watch for scale insects, mealybugs and tiny spider mites, which are difficult to see with the naked eye. Although some houseplant pests can be removed with a toothpick or cotton swab, most are easily treated with insecticidal soap spray.
Fertility problems: If you notice leaves are turning yellow before they fall, the plant may be lacking certain nutrients. Fertilize regularly during spring and summer using a product formulated for indoor plants.
Water: Don’t jump to the conclusion that dry soil is to blame when leaves are falling off houseplants, as the problem may be due to either over- or under-watering. Although some indoor plants like consistently moist (but never soggy) soil, most plants shouldn’t be watered until the top of the potting mix feels slightly dry. Use lukewarm water, as very cold water may cause houseplant leaf drop, especially during the winter months.
Humidity: Certain plants are prone to leaf drop when the air is very dry. A humidity tray with a layer of wet pebbles is one effective way to rectify low humidity. It may also help to group plants together.
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