文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a favorite rose variety for many gardeners because they are available in a wide range of colors and are relatively easy to grow. Although bred for disease resistance, knockout roses are susceptible to several rose-specific diseases and fungi. They also require proper watering habits and fertilizer to thrive. When knockout roses turn brown, they require intervention to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Growing aluminum plants (Pilea cadierei) is easy and will add additional appeal to the home with pointed leaves splashed in a metallic silver. Let’s learn more about taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent jade plants are popular houseplants because they are easy to care for and rarely suffer from pests or diseases. A healthy jade plant has plump, green leaves with glossy surfaces. If your jade plant has white dots or spots on its leaves, this could be a sign of insect infestation or incorrect growing conditions. Investigate any potential problem straightaway before it has a chance to spread.
Mealy Bugs
Mealy bugs are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/4 inch long. They are covered with a layer of white dust or filaments that are mobile. Mealy bugs gather on new stems and on the undersides of jade plant roots. Treat mealy bugs by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol. Deal with severe infestations by using a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants.
Salt
Jade plants naturally develop small crystals of salt on their leaves. The salt is absorbed through the roots and excreted by the leaves. It dries into small, white dots. You can't prevent these but you can remove them with a damp cloth. Flush out the soil of your jade plant with plenty of water if it is covered with a white crust of salt.
Oedema
Jade plants that receive too much water suffer from a condition known as oedema. The first symptom is develop blisters on the leaves. These pop and form small, corky spots that go from yellowish-white to brown. Reduce watering of jade plants showing signs of oedema. The spots that are already present are permanent but no new ones will appear. Oedema is most common on jade plants during the winter.
Other Causes
Water drops drying on jade plant leaves leave white spots on their surfaces, especially in hard-water areas. Wipe them off with a damp cloth. Jade plants exposed to household chemical sprays or hot cooking oil may also develop discolored spots on the leaves. Indoor jade plants kept in a humid room such as a bathroom sometimes develop powdery mildew on their leaves in the winter. Decrease the local humidity levels or increase the airflow around the plant to prevent it from growing again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Taking cuttings from a cactus plant is an easy method of propagation, as long as you're careful around the spines! Pad-forming, columnar, or segmented cacti can all be cloned in this way. Since cacti are drought-tolerant, cuttings will not suffer when exposed to the air, and actually prefer to dry out in order to propagate. Ideally, plant in the springtime when cacti are beginning to initiate new growth. Cuttings will only propagate successfully during certain months. When nighttime temperatures are 60 degrees F and above, its a good time to take cuttings.
Step 1
Cut a cactus segment using a sharp, clean knife -- ideally, serrated. If cloning a pad cactus, cut between the pads. Cut a columnar cactus anywhere along the stem at a 45-degree angle. Cuttings can vary greatly in size, from immature globes to meter-long stem pieces.
Step 2
Square off the base of the cutting and let it sit in a warm, dry place until it dries. If it is not allowed to dry, the tip may rot. Wait until a callus forms, which will protect it from soil-borne diseases. This can take one to 14 days.
Step 3
Fill growing containers with a propagation mix of 1/2 organic and 1/2 inorganic material, ideally peat or compost and pumice or perlite. Place cuttings deeply into the mix, ensuring they will not topple over. Columnar cacti may need to be placed especially deep.
Step 4
Provide plenty of sunshine and cool temperatures for the first few months as the cutting is taking hold. Avoid over-watering in these early stages, as it may lead to rot. Gallon-size containers can sustain the cuttings for the first year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It can be difficult to differentiate between leaf-related problems that occur in the summer garden, but angular leaf spot disease is pretty distinctive, making it easy for new gardeners to diagnose successfully. Plants that develop very regular leaf spots that follow veins may be suffering from this disease. Read on to find out more. What is Angular Leaf Spot? Angular leaf spot in plants is caused by several bacteria that survive in seeds and plant debris, including Pseudomonas syringae and Xanthomonas fragariae. These bacteria are somewhat host-specific, with P.
syringae targeting cucurbits and X. fragariae attacking strawberries. Symptoms first appear as small, water-soaked spots on leaves, but spread rapidly when conditions are moist and ambient temperatures are between 75 and 82 F. (24-28 C.). Spots expand until they fill the entire area between leaf veins, but do not cross over, which creates a tiled appearance on larger leaves. Older spots may dry out and tear, leaving holes behind. On fruits, angular leaf spot disease manifests as perfectly circular, water-soaked spots, much smaller than those on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots take on a chalky white appearance and may crack open, allowing pathogens to contaminate fruits and cause fruit rot.
How to Treat Angular Leaf Spot Treating angular leaf spot is not a simple, straightforward task. Once a plant is infected, it cannot be cured easily and most gardeners will remove the plant from their garden to prevent further spreading of the disease. Future problems can be prevented by only using certified, disease-free seed, practicing a three-year crop rotation with different plant families and making a habit out of cleaning up plant debris as it falls to the ground.
Beds with poor drainage or that are over-watered favor angular leaf spot — pay close attention to your watering habits if this disease has already developed in your plants. Before watering, check the soil moisture level with your hand. Unless the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, do not water; and when you do, make sure to water at the base of plants. Good watering practices can reduce the risk of many diseases, including angular leaf spots in plants.
syringae targeting cucurbits and X. fragariae attacking strawberries. Symptoms first appear as small, water-soaked spots on leaves, but spread rapidly when conditions are moist and ambient temperatures are between 75 and 82 F. (24-28 C.). Spots expand until they fill the entire area between leaf veins, but do not cross over, which creates a tiled appearance on larger leaves. Older spots may dry out and tear, leaving holes behind. On fruits, angular leaf spot disease manifests as perfectly circular, water-soaked spots, much smaller than those on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots take on a chalky white appearance and may crack open, allowing pathogens to contaminate fruits and cause fruit rot.
How to Treat Angular Leaf Spot Treating angular leaf spot is not a simple, straightforward task. Once a plant is infected, it cannot be cured easily and most gardeners will remove the plant from their garden to prevent further spreading of the disease. Future problems can be prevented by only using certified, disease-free seed, practicing a three-year crop rotation with different plant families and making a habit out of cleaning up plant debris as it falls to the ground.
Beds with poor drainage or that are over-watered favor angular leaf spot — pay close attention to your watering habits if this disease has already developed in your plants. Before watering, check the soil moisture level with your hand. Unless the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, do not water; and when you do, make sure to water at the base of plants. Good watering practices can reduce the risk of many diseases, including angular leaf spots in plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are much more than just spine-covered desert plants. In reality, the cactus family incorporates a great variety of versatile and useful plants that are both attractive and easy to grow. In dry regions and drought-resistant gardens, cactus is ideal because it can store water on its own. Many cactus varieties display beautiful, exotic-looking flowers. With their many shapes and sizes, cacti serve well as ornamental and landscape plants without requiring much maintenance.
Drought Resistance
Cactus is one of the best choices for a drought-resistant garden in arid regions and can help gardeners and landscapers reduce water usage. Drought-resistant gardens are those designed to thrive even when rainfall is infrequent, and do not require irrigation. Cacti are succulents and can store water within their stems for use during periods of drought. The ease of growing cactus makes maintaining a landscape more feasible. Overwatering is one of the most common ways to kill a cactus. Water infrequently, especially during winter.
Ornamental Flowers
Despite their often intimidating and painful spines, cactus plants often produce some of the showiest flowers among plants. Plant flower-bearing cacti as ornamental additions both indoors or outdoors. The flowers tend to be limited in number but are often large, have numerous petals and come in various shapes. This is especially true of Epiphyllum, the orchid cactus, which grows flowers up to 8 inches in diameter that emit a strong fragrance. Soehrensia bruchii bears vivid red petals, while Trichocereus lamprochlorus explodes a large bloom in bright yellow.
Landscaping
Plant cacti in a landscape function to add texture and shape to a yard, or to fill open spots with versatility and variety. Grow lithops if you need low-growing, small specimens. Lithops are called "living stones" or "flowering stones" because they mimic rocks. Other cacti serve well as potted plants, such as crassulas. Grow a taller cactus, such as Saguarop, to fill vertical space in a landscape. Depending on the variety, cacti may be round and small, or grow extremely large, and may be shade-loving or sun-loving plants.
Food
Certain varieties of cactus can also function as edible food crops. The Mexican dish "nopales" is made of young stems of the prickly pear cactus.The texture and flavor is comparable to green beans. The prickly pear's small leaves are also used as a crispy lettuce. Texas A&M Agrilife Extension recommends preparing nopales as follows: Remove thorns with a peeler or knife if they are present. Cut them into squares and boil with chopped onion, salt and soda until tender.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Amaryllis
Hippeastrum_ hybrids
Amaryllis is an easy bulb to grow. Its enormous cluster of trumpet-shape blooms may require staking to keep them upright, but blooms may last for up to 6 weeks. Keep the plant cool (60-65 degrees F) while in bloom but slightly warmer at other times when it is actively growing. It needs bright light and evenly moist soil, except when it is dormant. Force the bulb to go dormant in late summer or early fall by withholding water and placing it in a cool, dry location for a couple of months. Resume watering and move it to a warm spot to force new growth.
TYPE:Bulb, Houseplant
HEIGHT:1 to 3 feet
WIDTH:6-12 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Pink, Red, White
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom, Winter Bloom
SPECIAL FEATURES:Low Maintenance
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
This exotic-looking evergreen member of the Heath family can grows to a height of 12m. With its glossy evergreen leaves and either flowers or fruits (sometimes both) present in every month of the year, the Strawberry Tree is easy to recognise.
Identification
The short-stalked leaves of this much-branching woody plant are hairless, glossy green, oval and slightly toothed. Trunk and branches are brown with reddish tinges towards the bristly growing tips.
Typical of members of the Ericaceae, the drooping flowers are bell like; they are typically 8mm long and 5mm in diameter, sometimes white but more often tinged with red, pink or green. Smelling like honey, the flowers are particularly attractive to bees, including honey bees. Fruits of the Strawberry Tree start off green but turn orange and eventually red; they do look a little bit like their ground-hugging namesakes, but instread of seeds on the surface there are pyramidal outgrowths all over the spherical fruits. When fully ripened they taste quite pleasant (but not much like strawberries) although with a hint of bitterness.
Distribution
Arbutus unedo is a native of the Mediterranean region, most plentiful in the west. We see lots of Strawberry Trees in southern Portugal, where they grow wild in the hills around Monchique in the Algarve region and in the Alantejo further north.
Habitat
The Strawberry Tree is most commonly found on poor soils in maquis habitats, but occasionally plants can be seen on woodland edges and around field margins, generally on higher ground well away from the coast.
Blooming Times
Arbutus unedo produces its flowers between October and April.
Uses
Although the fruits of Arbutus unedo do not taste anywhere near as nice as they look (they are a bit like lychees), the Portuguese use them to make Aguardente de Medronhos, a brandy-like alcholic drink sometimes called simply Medronho.
The wood of the Strawberry Tree can be used to make high-grade charcoal.
Similar Species
Arbutus andrachne, the Eastern Strawberry Tree, is found in Crete and parts of the eastern Mediterranean. The flowers are erect rather than pendent, and the papery bark of the tree is orange-red and peels off in strips.
Identification
The short-stalked leaves of this much-branching woody plant are hairless, glossy green, oval and slightly toothed. Trunk and branches are brown with reddish tinges towards the bristly growing tips.
Typical of members of the Ericaceae, the drooping flowers are bell like; they are typically 8mm long and 5mm in diameter, sometimes white but more often tinged with red, pink or green. Smelling like honey, the flowers are particularly attractive to bees, including honey bees. Fruits of the Strawberry Tree start off green but turn orange and eventually red; they do look a little bit like their ground-hugging namesakes, but instread of seeds on the surface there are pyramidal outgrowths all over the spherical fruits. When fully ripened they taste quite pleasant (but not much like strawberries) although with a hint of bitterness.
Distribution
Arbutus unedo is a native of the Mediterranean region, most plentiful in the west. We see lots of Strawberry Trees in southern Portugal, where they grow wild in the hills around Monchique in the Algarve region and in the Alantejo further north.
Habitat
The Strawberry Tree is most commonly found on poor soils in maquis habitats, but occasionally plants can be seen on woodland edges and around field margins, generally on higher ground well away from the coast.
Blooming Times
Arbutus unedo produces its flowers between October and April.
Uses
Although the fruits of Arbutus unedo do not taste anywhere near as nice as they look (they are a bit like lychees), the Portuguese use them to make Aguardente de Medronhos, a brandy-like alcholic drink sometimes called simply Medronho.
The wood of the Strawberry Tree can be used to make high-grade charcoal.
Similar Species
Arbutus andrachne, the Eastern Strawberry Tree, is found in Crete and parts of the eastern Mediterranean. The flowers are erect rather than pendent, and the papery bark of the tree is orange-red and peels off in strips.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones.
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing:
Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July).
Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting.
All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING
Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed.
Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager.
Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out.
Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting.
Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart.
Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking.
The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield.
Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August.
Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage.
Powdery Mildew
Cane Borers
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones.
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing:
Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July).
Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting.
All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING
Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed.
Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager.
Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out.
Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting.
Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart.
Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking.
The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield.
Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August.
Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage.
Powdery Mildew
Cane Borers
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established.
Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues.
Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit.
There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking.
You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.)
Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING
If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE
Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year.
If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.
For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fire blight
Pear psylla
Aphids
Mites
Powdery mildew
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established.
Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues.
Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit.
There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking.
You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.)
Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING
If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE
Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year.
If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.
For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fire blight
Pear psylla
Aphids
Mites
Powdery mildew
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Vaccinium
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Acidic
Plump, juicy berries are now easy to grow in your backyard on bushes that are resistant to most pests and diseases, and can produce for up to 20 years. A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes aren’t just a great edible plant but also an attractive addition to your overall landscape, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers.
Note: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time with netting or other methods.
There are three types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, and hybrid half-high. The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. See more about blueberry varieties below.
PLANTING
Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be between 4 and 5. The more organic matter added, the more tolerance to acidity blueberries will have.
The blueberry is a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, it requires a soil that hold moisture, but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet.
Mix organic matter bushes into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes.
Bushes should be planted as early in the spring as possible. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (about twice as wide and twice as deep as the roots of the plant).
Space bushes about 5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and one part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
Set the bush, with its roots spread out, at a depth of one inch more than it grew in the nursery and pack the hole tightly with soil.
Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting. Then apply 1/2 ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.
CARE
Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust, or pine needles after planting.
Supply one to two inches of water per week.
It is imperative to drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won’t make away with the entire crop.
One year after planting, apply one ounce of 10-10-10 fertilizer per bush at bloom, and increase the rate by one ounce each year thereafter to a maximum of 8 ounces for mature bushes.
Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first year or two after planting. Pinch back any blossoms developing on newly set plants to allow growth.
For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
Prune plants in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Cut out dead, broken, short, weak, and spindly shoots.
On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds
Blueberry Maggot
Powdery Mildew
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Acidic
Plump, juicy berries are now easy to grow in your backyard on bushes that are resistant to most pests and diseases, and can produce for up to 20 years. A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes aren’t just a great edible plant but also an attractive addition to your overall landscape, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers.
Note: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time with netting or other methods.
There are three types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, and hybrid half-high. The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. See more about blueberry varieties below.
PLANTING
Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be between 4 and 5. The more organic matter added, the more tolerance to acidity blueberries will have.
The blueberry is a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, it requires a soil that hold moisture, but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet.
Mix organic matter bushes into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes.
Bushes should be planted as early in the spring as possible. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (about twice as wide and twice as deep as the roots of the plant).
Space bushes about 5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and one part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
Set the bush, with its roots spread out, at a depth of one inch more than it grew in the nursery and pack the hole tightly with soil.
Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting. Then apply 1/2 ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.
CARE
Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust, or pine needles after planting.
Supply one to two inches of water per week.
It is imperative to drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won’t make away with the entire crop.
One year after planting, apply one ounce of 10-10-10 fertilizer per bush at bloom, and increase the rate by one ounce each year thereafter to a maximum of 8 ounces for mature bushes.
Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first year or two after planting. Pinch back any blossoms developing on newly set plants to allow growth.
For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
Prune plants in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Cut out dead, broken, short, weak, and spindly shoots.
On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds
Blueberry Maggot
Powdery Mildew
3
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea batatas
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories.
PLANTING
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
CARE
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf rot
Stem rot
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories.
PLANTING
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
CARE
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf rot
Stem rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
HARDINESS ZONE: Varies
Squash, especially zucchini, is a prolific vegetable! Easy to grow, each plant will produce several squash a day during peak season. Make sure you harvest summer squash when tender and still immature!
There are many varieties of summer squash to choose from:
Summer squash including zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
True winter squash (C. pepo)
Acorn squash, delicata, spaghetti squash
Butternut squash (C. moschata)
The main difference between winter and summer squash varieties is their harvest time; the longer growing period gives winter squash a tougher, inedible skin.
Squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage so you do want to pick it all before the first fall frosts arrive.
With its bumper crops, you usually only need a plant or two for a bumper crop—and you may still find yourself giving zucchini away to neighbors or baking lots of zucchini bread!
PLANTING
If you wish to start seeds indoors due to a short gardening season, sow 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost in peat pots.However, we recommend direct-seeding for squash because they do not always transplant well. If you do transplant, be very gentle with the roots.
If you wish to get an early start, it may be better to warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
The soil needs to be warm (at least 60º at a two-inch depth), so plant summer squash after spring (cool-season) crops, like peas, lettuce, and spinach—about one week after the last spring frost to midsummer.
In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.
The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy.
Squash plants are heavy feeders. Work compost and plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting for a rich soil base.
To germinate outside, use cloche or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
Plant seeds about one-inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart in a traditional garden bed.
Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
Most summer squashes now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash is a vine plant and needs more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE
Mulch plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
For all type of squash, frequent and consistent watering is recommended. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
There are a couple of challenging pests, especially the squash vine borer and the squash bug. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive.
If your zucchini blooms flowers but never bears actual zucchini, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
Cucumber Beetle
Blossom-End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.
Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with dippled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
HARDINESS ZONE: Varies
Squash, especially zucchini, is a prolific vegetable! Easy to grow, each plant will produce several squash a day during peak season. Make sure you harvest summer squash when tender and still immature!
There are many varieties of summer squash to choose from:
Summer squash including zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
True winter squash (C. pepo)
Acorn squash, delicata, spaghetti squash
Butternut squash (C. moschata)
The main difference between winter and summer squash varieties is their harvest time; the longer growing period gives winter squash a tougher, inedible skin.
Squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage so you do want to pick it all before the first fall frosts arrive.
With its bumper crops, you usually only need a plant or two for a bumper crop—and you may still find yourself giving zucchini away to neighbors or baking lots of zucchini bread!
PLANTING
If you wish to start seeds indoors due to a short gardening season, sow 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost in peat pots.However, we recommend direct-seeding for squash because they do not always transplant well. If you do transplant, be very gentle with the roots.
If you wish to get an early start, it may be better to warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
The soil needs to be warm (at least 60º at a two-inch depth), so plant summer squash after spring (cool-season) crops, like peas, lettuce, and spinach—about one week after the last spring frost to midsummer.
In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.
The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy.
Squash plants are heavy feeders. Work compost and plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting for a rich soil base.
To germinate outside, use cloche or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
Plant seeds about one-inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart in a traditional garden bed.
Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
Most summer squashes now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash is a vine plant and needs more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE
Mulch plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
For all type of squash, frequent and consistent watering is recommended. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
There are a couple of challenging pests, especially the squash vine borer and the squash bug. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive.
If your zucchini blooms flowers but never bears actual zucchini, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
Cucumber Beetle
Blossom-End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.
Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with dippled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.
Aphids
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium cepa
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness.
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING
Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development.
Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins.
Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting.
Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F.
For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.
Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE
Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more.
Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions.
Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.
Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES
Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness.
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING
Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development.
Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins.
Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting.
Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F.
For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.
Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE
Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more.
Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions.
Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.
Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES
Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium sativum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
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