文章
Gina
2017年05月22日
If you want to get crafty in the garden, for the garden, or just as a way to keep your thumb green during the winter months, we have the project for you! Hypertufa is a mix of concrete and other elements that is lightweight, easy to work with, can be molded or even carved, and is a perfect project for both beginner and experienced crafters and gardeners. You can create pots, containers, art… ok, we will just let these cool tutorials speak for themselves, ok? BTW… you can even do this on a covered kitchen table with the kids! All you need is a place to let them cure, and you get amazing results for just a little creative effort. Oh, yeah. It’s fun! Our feature photo above is from ‘Martha’. She shows us how to make these bowl hypertufas using a kitchen mixing bowl as a mold! (Can you say dollar store?) These would look great inside or out, and she has a bunch of other variations as well, including a basketweave patterned hypertufa. Check it out!
The basic recipe (Although there are TONS of variations!) From ‘Lowes‘.
1 Part Portland Cement
1 Part Perlite
1 Part Peat Moss
1 Part Water (Can be adjusted to consistency needed for each project)
Mix dry ingredients with gloved hands before adding water. Mix well. Thick oatmeal is a good place to start, thickness wise.
Spray inside of mold with non stick cooking spray.
Pack mixture into mold in whatever way you wish to create sides of containers, art… whatever!
Put inside closed plastic bag for 24-36 hours. This keeps it from drying too quickly, which can cause cracking. Now set in some out of the way place for 2-3 weeks to totally cure. Pop off mold, use a brush or sponge to rub off any imperfections. Done!
Ok, you can see I was pretty casual with the basic directions here. That’s ’cause it’s a very forgiving medium, so have some fun with it! Most of these tutorials have their own take on the directions as well.
From Pam at ‘House of Hawthornes’, everything about making hypertufa containers. Make sure you take note at what she used for molds… Ok, just trust me, it works!
‘This Old House’ shows us it isn’t just for making containers! Make this hypertufa table! Use their plans for the whole table, or just make the top and use it with an existing base.
Learn to make a hypertufa planter from ‘Gardeners Supply’. As you can see, they used theirs for a container water garden!
We LOVE this hypertufa tough from ‘Dirty Horticulture’… it has such an organic feel, like it’s been there 100 years! Lots of great tips on making molds as well.
Hypertufa garden seat by ‘Flat Earth Designs’ via ‘My Notting Hill‘ in Texas. Are we starting to see the versatility in this medium?
Make a hypertufa millstone for over a fountain, with help from ‘Houzz GardenWeb’!
This wicker basket hypertufa is also from ‘Martha’ An easy variation, I love these for a country or traditional porch!
Lastly, these hypertufa containers use recycled items as molds… I really like the texture the veggie oil container made! From ‘Home Life Science’.
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文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow bitter melon. Growing bitter gourd is easy. This healthy vegetable grows up quickly and fruits productively. You can also grow it in pots.
USDA Zones— 6-11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— African Cucumber, Ampalaya, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Chinli-Chih, Cundeamor, Fructus Mormordicae Grosvenori, Karavella, Kathilla, Karela, Kareli, Kerala, Kuguazi, K’u-Kua, Lai Margose, Melón Amargo, Melon Amer, Momordica, Momordica charantia, Momordica murcata, Momordique, Pepino Montero, P’u-T’ao, Sorosi, Sushavi, Vegetable insulin, Wild Cucumber
Bitter Melon is one of the most popular vegetables grown in South-East Asia. Like cucumber, melon or pumpkin it belongs to the gourd family. A native of Indian subcontinent it is used in Asian delicacies. It one of the healthiest vegetables and has many medicinal uses. It has a uniquely bitter and crunchy taste.
Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd) Information
This very short living tropical perennial climber with thin stems can grow up to 5 m in length. Like other plants of this family, it needs support. Both the stem and lobed leaves are hairy. Bitter melon produces yellow flowers, male or female, which are pollinated by insects.
Bitter taste fruits are eaten unripe when they are still green or slightly pale. They have delicate skin and can be eaten after cooking. Inside there are large seeds. The flesh somewhat resembles a cucumber and is watery and crusty.
How to Grow Bitter MelonPropagation
Seeds can be purchased online or in garden shops. You can also use seeds you get from ripe yellow fruits. Ripe seeds have a crimson red color coat. Germination is not difficult, but there are some tricks to make it faster.
Seeds will germinate slowly in 3-4 weeks if you directly sow them without pre-treatment, especially in low temperatures. But to increase germination rate and for the faster germination, you have to scarify them to remove seed coat. For this, rub the seeds from one side without making any damage to endosperm inside the seed coat. Soaking seeds for 24 hours in water before sowing will also help.
Planting Bitter Melon
Sow seeds 2 cm deep. Seeds can be sown directly into the ground or in the containers but only when the risk of frost has passed and the soil warms up enough. Seeds require the temperature above 70 F (20 C) for germination.
In temperate regions best seed sowing time is summer, usually between late April to May. Whereas in tropics (USDA Zone 10, 11), you can start seeds anytime.
Types and Varieties
There are two types of bitter melons. One from India, which is smaller in size and has spiny skin and the other one is from China. Chinese bitter melons are milder in taste, generally large and smoothly ridged. If you want the higher yield, choose hybrid variety.
How to Grow Bitter Gourd in Pots
Growing bitter gourd (bitter melon) in pots is easy. Similar to squashes, cucumbers, and melons. You’ll need a 12 inches deep pot and a sturdy trellis. However, the bitter melon vine can grow more than 5 m (16 feet) long. A trellis or any other support structure that is at least 5-6 feet tall is required. Once the vine has reached that height you’ll have to redirect it.
Requirements for Growing Bitter Melon
This plant is cultivated in the same way like squashes, melons or cucumbers.
Position
Provide full sun to this vine and it will produce heavily. Also, as it is a tall vine you will need to provide it a support. A tall trellis or a garden fence. If you want to grow it on your patio, terrace or balcony grow it near the wall so that it can go up along with it.
Soil
It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers permeable, sandy loam soil that is very rich in organic matter. Bitter melon grows in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. The pH range around 6 to 7.1 is ideal.
Watering
It can tolerate drought like conditions for a short time but regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist is essential to ensure a good yield.
Temperature
In the initial phase of growth, growing bitter gourds require a temperature more than 70 F (20 C). Humid and warm temperature accelerate the growth of the plant. It is more resistant to low temperatures than other plants of this family but requires the hot temperature and humidity to grow.
Bitter Melon Plant CareFertilizer
Overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be avoided, which could encourage the development of foliage at the expense of fruits. At the time of planting, you can mix slow-release complete fertilizer in the soil. Enriching the soil with compost or well-rotted aged manure and regular inputs of organic matter will be enough later. Still, if your plant is not growing well, you can feed it with liquid vegetable fertilizer once in a month.
Trellising
Bitter gourd perks up very quickly and within two weeks after planting you must arrange something to support it. You can also grow this vine on pergolas, arches or arbor.
Growing bitter gourd vertically increases the yield and fruit size, moreover, in the case of growing horizontally on the ground, there is a high risk of fruit rot and fungal infection to the plant.
Pruning
The plant produces numerous side shoots, which must be removed to improve yield, remove the side shoots (lateral branches) until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave only 4–6 laterals and cut the tip of the main runner to improve the productivity of the plant.
Overwintering
In cooler climates bitter gourds are grown as annual so you may not need to care about overwintering.
Pollination
Pollinators like bees will do the pollination for you so be good to them. If you don’t find pollinators around the flowers you may need to hand pollinate them in the morning.
Pests and Diseases
It is prone to diseases like watermelon mosaic virus, other cucurbit diseases, and powdery mildew. In pests, it gets affected by aphids and spider mites.
Harvesting
Bitter melon starts to fruit quickly in 2 months. Harvest fruits when they are green, little pale and unripe and about the size of 3 to 6 inches (depending more on the variety and type). Within 6 to 8 weeks after the germination, you’ll see the blossoms and in the next 2-3 weeks, fruits will appear and are ready to be picked.
USDA Zones— 6-11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— African Cucumber, Ampalaya, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Balsam Pear, Balsam-Apple, Balsambirne, Balsamo, Bitter Apple, Bitter Cucumber, Bitter Gourd, Bittergurke, Carilla Fruit, Carilla Gourd, Cerasee, Chinli-Chih, Cundeamor, Fructus Mormordicae Grosvenori, Karavella, Kathilla, Karela, Kareli, Kerala, Kuguazi, K’u-Kua, Lai Margose, Melón Amargo, Melon Amer, Momordica, Momordica charantia, Momordica murcata, Momordique, Pepino Montero, P’u-T’ao, Sorosi, Sushavi, Vegetable insulin, Wild Cucumber
Bitter Melon is one of the most popular vegetables grown in South-East Asia. Like cucumber, melon or pumpkin it belongs to the gourd family. A native of Indian subcontinent it is used in Asian delicacies. It one of the healthiest vegetables and has many medicinal uses. It has a uniquely bitter and crunchy taste.
Bitter Melon (Bitter Gourd) Information
This very short living tropical perennial climber with thin stems can grow up to 5 m in length. Like other plants of this family, it needs support. Both the stem and lobed leaves are hairy. Bitter melon produces yellow flowers, male or female, which are pollinated by insects.
Bitter taste fruits are eaten unripe when they are still green or slightly pale. They have delicate skin and can be eaten after cooking. Inside there are large seeds. The flesh somewhat resembles a cucumber and is watery and crusty.
How to Grow Bitter MelonPropagation
Seeds can be purchased online or in garden shops. You can also use seeds you get from ripe yellow fruits. Ripe seeds have a crimson red color coat. Germination is not difficult, but there are some tricks to make it faster.
Seeds will germinate slowly in 3-4 weeks if you directly sow them without pre-treatment, especially in low temperatures. But to increase germination rate and for the faster germination, you have to scarify them to remove seed coat. For this, rub the seeds from one side without making any damage to endosperm inside the seed coat. Soaking seeds for 24 hours in water before sowing will also help.
Planting Bitter Melon
Sow seeds 2 cm deep. Seeds can be sown directly into the ground or in the containers but only when the risk of frost has passed and the soil warms up enough. Seeds require the temperature above 70 F (20 C) for germination.
In temperate regions best seed sowing time is summer, usually between late April to May. Whereas in tropics (USDA Zone 10, 11), you can start seeds anytime.
Types and Varieties
There are two types of bitter melons. One from India, which is smaller in size and has spiny skin and the other one is from China. Chinese bitter melons are milder in taste, generally large and smoothly ridged. If you want the higher yield, choose hybrid variety.
How to Grow Bitter Gourd in Pots
Growing bitter gourd (bitter melon) in pots is easy. Similar to squashes, cucumbers, and melons. You’ll need a 12 inches deep pot and a sturdy trellis. However, the bitter melon vine can grow more than 5 m (16 feet) long. A trellis or any other support structure that is at least 5-6 feet tall is required. Once the vine has reached that height you’ll have to redirect it.
Requirements for Growing Bitter Melon
This plant is cultivated in the same way like squashes, melons or cucumbers.
Position
Provide full sun to this vine and it will produce heavily. Also, as it is a tall vine you will need to provide it a support. A tall trellis or a garden fence. If you want to grow it on your patio, terrace or balcony grow it near the wall so that it can go up along with it.
Soil
It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers permeable, sandy loam soil that is very rich in organic matter. Bitter melon grows in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil. The pH range around 6 to 7.1 is ideal.
Watering
It can tolerate drought like conditions for a short time but regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist is essential to ensure a good yield.
Temperature
In the initial phase of growth, growing bitter gourds require a temperature more than 70 F (20 C). Humid and warm temperature accelerate the growth of the plant. It is more resistant to low temperatures than other plants of this family but requires the hot temperature and humidity to grow.
Bitter Melon Plant CareFertilizer
Overuse of nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be avoided, which could encourage the development of foliage at the expense of fruits. At the time of planting, you can mix slow-release complete fertilizer in the soil. Enriching the soil with compost or well-rotted aged manure and regular inputs of organic matter will be enough later. Still, if your plant is not growing well, you can feed it with liquid vegetable fertilizer once in a month.
Trellising
Bitter gourd perks up very quickly and within two weeks after planting you must arrange something to support it. You can also grow this vine on pergolas, arches or arbor.
Growing bitter gourd vertically increases the yield and fruit size, moreover, in the case of growing horizontally on the ground, there is a high risk of fruit rot and fungal infection to the plant.
Pruning
The plant produces numerous side shoots, which must be removed to improve yield, remove the side shoots (lateral branches) until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave only 4–6 laterals and cut the tip of the main runner to improve the productivity of the plant.
Overwintering
In cooler climates bitter gourds are grown as annual so you may not need to care about overwintering.
Pollination
Pollinators like bees will do the pollination for you so be good to them. If you don’t find pollinators around the flowers you may need to hand pollinate them in the morning.
Pests and Diseases
It is prone to diseases like watermelon mosaic virus, other cucurbit diseases, and powdery mildew. In pests, it gets affected by aphids and spider mites.
Harvesting
Bitter melon starts to fruit quickly in 2 months. Harvest fruits when they are green, little pale and unripe and about the size of 3 to 6 inches (depending more on the variety and type). Within 6 to 8 weeks after the germination, you’ll see the blossoms and in the next 2-3 weeks, fruits will appear and are ready to be picked.
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文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Growing ginger in a pot is easy! It’s a great idea if you live in a cool temperate climate or you don’t have a plenty of space.
If you live in USDA Zone 9b and above or any other subtropical or tropical climates around the globe you can easily grow ginger as a perennial both on the ground and in a container year round. If you live below Zone 9b and down to USDA Zone 7b, please note that the leaves of the ginger plants growing outside on the ground will die but come back again after the winter. Below the Zone 7 or in any other cooler part you live, you may need to grow ginger in pots to keep the plant indoors in winters.
Ginger is a warm climate spice or herb, like garlic or turmeric, it is termed as SUPERFOOD. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-biotic properties. It’s ability to expedite the digestion power is well-known.
Growing Ginger in Pots
Growing ginger roots is easy, find or purchase fresh ginger rhizomes (roots), measuring almost 3 to 5 inches. Look for pieces with growth buds or eyes. These little green buds look similar to that of potatoes. Store-bought ginger is sometimes treated with growth retardant chemicals so it’s a good idea that you keep the rhizomes in water overnight or for a few hours.
Planting and Propagation
The best time to start growing ginger is spring, however, if you live in a frost-free warm climate you can try to grow ginger in container anytime but the best time is an early wet season.
Plant the rhizomes (2-3 cm) 1 inch deep in the potting soil with the buds facing upwards. Ginger plants will start to emerge in a couple of weeks. It is noted that the ginger plants gets up to four to five feet tall.
Choosing a Pot
For growing ginger, choose a medium sized 14-15 inches pot that is deep rather than shallow to provide the ample space to roots to grow.
Requirements for Growing Ginger in PotPosition
In its natural climate, ginger is known to be gro
wn in partial sun, so it’s a good idea that you keep your pot in a spot that receives full sun but shade in afternoon. However, if you live in a really cold climate keep the plant in a sunny spot.
Soil
Loose, well drained, and sandy-loamy soil that is rich in compost is best for growing ginger indoors or outdoors in a pot. Soil that blocks the moisture must be avoided.
Watering
The ginger plant requires deep and regular watering as it prefers slightly moist soil. However, it should be noted that overwatering and waterlogging may thwart the growth and cause the root rot. Also, watering should be reduced in winter.
Temperature
As ginger prefers a warm climate it can’t tolerate drafts and cold temperature, it is advised to keep your ginger plants indoors when the temperature starts to dip below the level of 50 F (10 C).
Plant Care
It requires to cut off a finger and ensure that the section is at least 2 inches in length. Then the cut pieces are dried for a couple of days in a warm place before putting them in ground.
Fertilizer
Ginger requires soil that is rich in organic matter, you can top the pot with compost or well-rotted manure. Additionally, you can apply all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season.
Pests and Diseases
Pests including white grub, shoot borer, shoot boring weevil attack the ginger plant. It is also attacked by bacterial wilt, soft rot, dry rot and leaf spot viruses. It is highly recommended to keep the plant safe from these diseases and pests.
Harvesting
Your ginger roots are going to get ready for harvest within 8-10 months, once the leaves start to become yellow.
If you live in USDA Zone 9b and above or any other subtropical or tropical climates around the globe you can easily grow ginger as a perennial both on the ground and in a container year round. If you live below Zone 9b and down to USDA Zone 7b, please note that the leaves of the ginger plants growing outside on the ground will die but come back again after the winter. Below the Zone 7 or in any other cooler part you live, you may need to grow ginger in pots to keep the plant indoors in winters.
Ginger is a warm climate spice or herb, like garlic or turmeric, it is termed as SUPERFOOD. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-biotic properties. It’s ability to expedite the digestion power is well-known.
Growing Ginger in Pots
Growing ginger roots is easy, find or purchase fresh ginger rhizomes (roots), measuring almost 3 to 5 inches. Look for pieces with growth buds or eyes. These little green buds look similar to that of potatoes. Store-bought ginger is sometimes treated with growth retardant chemicals so it’s a good idea that you keep the rhizomes in water overnight or for a few hours.
Planting and Propagation
The best time to start growing ginger is spring, however, if you live in a frost-free warm climate you can try to grow ginger in container anytime but the best time is an early wet season.
Plant the rhizomes (2-3 cm) 1 inch deep in the potting soil with the buds facing upwards. Ginger plants will start to emerge in a couple of weeks. It is noted that the ginger plants gets up to four to five feet tall.
Choosing a Pot
For growing ginger, choose a medium sized 14-15 inches pot that is deep rather than shallow to provide the ample space to roots to grow.
Requirements for Growing Ginger in PotPosition
In its natural climate, ginger is known to be gro
wn in partial sun, so it’s a good idea that you keep your pot in a spot that receives full sun but shade in afternoon. However, if you live in a really cold climate keep the plant in a sunny spot.
Soil
Loose, well drained, and sandy-loamy soil that is rich in compost is best for growing ginger indoors or outdoors in a pot. Soil that blocks the moisture must be avoided.
Watering
The ginger plant requires deep and regular watering as it prefers slightly moist soil. However, it should be noted that overwatering and waterlogging may thwart the growth and cause the root rot. Also, watering should be reduced in winter.
Temperature
As ginger prefers a warm climate it can’t tolerate drafts and cold temperature, it is advised to keep your ginger plants indoors when the temperature starts to dip below the level of 50 F (10 C).
Plant Care
It requires to cut off a finger and ensure that the section is at least 2 inches in length. Then the cut pieces are dried for a couple of days in a warm place before putting them in ground.
Fertilizer
Ginger requires soil that is rich in organic matter, you can top the pot with compost or well-rotted manure. Additionally, you can apply all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season.
Pests and Diseases
Pests including white grub, shoot borer, shoot boring weevil attack the ginger plant. It is also attacked by bacterial wilt, soft rot, dry rot and leaf spot viruses. It is highly recommended to keep the plant safe from these diseases and pests.
Harvesting
Your ginger roots are going to get ready for harvest within 8-10 months, once the leaves start to become yellow.
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文章
Martha
2017年05月22日
In this article, learn how to grow pinto beans. The easy growing pinto beans are nutrient rich and eating them can reduce the cholesterol level and risk of heart disease.
USDA Zones— 5 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other names — Phaseolus vulgaris var. pinto (Scientific Name)Frijol pinto, Speckled bean, Poroto frutilla, Strawberry bean, Carioca bean, Mottled bean, Phaseolus vulgaris and Common beans.
Pinto beans are annual plants that grow best in areas with long hot summers as they take three to five months to mature for harvest.
How to Grow Pinto BeansVarieties
Pinto beans grow on both vine (pole) and bush. Pole bean varieties produce more yield than bush beans. But bushier varieties are relatively easy to grow.
Propagation
Sow seeds 1 inches deep in the soil when all the dangers of frost are passed. *Pinto beans require direct seed sowing as they are not easy to transplant. Also, remember that it is a subtropical plant and needs a temperature around 60 – 70 F (16 – 21 C) for germination. Space pinto bean seeds 3-4 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. *Soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting to accelerate germination.
Location
Choose the sunniest spot in the garden that is less windy. For optimum growth, growing pinto beans in full sun is important. It needs at least six hours of direct sun a day but grows better if receive more sun.
Also Read: How to Grow Cluster Beans
Requirements for Growing Pinto BeansSoil
Pinto Beans do best in well-drained soil that is loamy, avoid clay-rich, heavy or soggy soil. Soil that is waterlogging causes root rot.
Watering
Water the plant only when top one inch of surface seems dry. Avoid overwatering because it does not tolerate excessive moisture but handle a bit of drought. Also, try not to wet the foliage while watering as it may promote fungal diseases.
Weeding
Keep the location weed free by gently pulling out the weeds around the plants by hand. Better not to use a tool as pinto beans have shallow roots that can be damaged by weeding with the help of tools.
Mulching
Since pinto beans have shallow feeder roots, it is best to do mulching to stop weeds from growing. Mulching also protects the plants from the cold.
Fertilizer
For growing pinto beans you’ll require low nitrogen fertilizer, legumes produce their own nitrogen and applying too much nitrogen can also result in comparatively more vegetative growth than fruits.
It needs fertilizer application twice for better yield. Admix 5-10-10 slow release fertilizer in the first 6 inches of the planting bed after the germination. Make sure not to apply fertilizer in 2 inches radius around the seedlings as it may damage them. Make a second application of 10-20-20 fertilizer when the plant begins to flowers.
Pests and Diseases
Its main problem is root rot, which you can easily prevent by moderate watering.
Pinto beans are sometimes attacked by aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and beetles. Use organic sprays to get rid of them or handpick if the infection is small. You can also invite beneficial insects into your garden to get rid of them.
Also Read: Plants that Attract Ladybugs
Harvesting
Pinto beans are ready for harvest within 90 to 120 days after planting. Harvest pinto beans by cutting the pods using clean scissors or pruning shear when they turn brown and become brittle and dry. You can also harvest the beans early if you want to use them green.
USDA Zones— 5 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other names — Phaseolus vulgaris var. pinto (Scientific Name)Frijol pinto, Speckled bean, Poroto frutilla, Strawberry bean, Carioca bean, Mottled bean, Phaseolus vulgaris and Common beans.
Pinto beans are annual plants that grow best in areas with long hot summers as they take three to five months to mature for harvest.
How to Grow Pinto BeansVarieties
Pinto beans grow on both vine (pole) and bush. Pole bean varieties produce more yield than bush beans. But bushier varieties are relatively easy to grow.
Propagation
Sow seeds 1 inches deep in the soil when all the dangers of frost are passed. *Pinto beans require direct seed sowing as they are not easy to transplant. Also, remember that it is a subtropical plant and needs a temperature around 60 – 70 F (16 – 21 C) for germination. Space pinto bean seeds 3-4 inches apart in rows that are 2 to 3 feet apart. *Soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting to accelerate germination.
Location
Choose the sunniest spot in the garden that is less windy. For optimum growth, growing pinto beans in full sun is important. It needs at least six hours of direct sun a day but grows better if receive more sun.
Also Read: How to Grow Cluster Beans
Requirements for Growing Pinto BeansSoil
Pinto Beans do best in well-drained soil that is loamy, avoid clay-rich, heavy or soggy soil. Soil that is waterlogging causes root rot.
Watering
Water the plant only when top one inch of surface seems dry. Avoid overwatering because it does not tolerate excessive moisture but handle a bit of drought. Also, try not to wet the foliage while watering as it may promote fungal diseases.
Weeding
Keep the location weed free by gently pulling out the weeds around the plants by hand. Better not to use a tool as pinto beans have shallow roots that can be damaged by weeding with the help of tools.
Mulching
Since pinto beans have shallow feeder roots, it is best to do mulching to stop weeds from growing. Mulching also protects the plants from the cold.
Fertilizer
For growing pinto beans you’ll require low nitrogen fertilizer, legumes produce their own nitrogen and applying too much nitrogen can also result in comparatively more vegetative growth than fruits.
It needs fertilizer application twice for better yield. Admix 5-10-10 slow release fertilizer in the first 6 inches of the planting bed after the germination. Make sure not to apply fertilizer in 2 inches radius around the seedlings as it may damage them. Make a second application of 10-20-20 fertilizer when the plant begins to flowers.
Pests and Diseases
Its main problem is root rot, which you can easily prevent by moderate watering.
Pinto beans are sometimes attacked by aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and beetles. Use organic sprays to get rid of them or handpick if the infection is small. You can also invite beneficial insects into your garden to get rid of them.
Also Read: Plants that Attract Ladybugs
Harvesting
Pinto beans are ready for harvest within 90 to 120 days after planting. Harvest pinto beans by cutting the pods using clean scissors or pruning shear when they turn brown and become brittle and dry. You can also harvest the beans early if you want to use them green.
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文章
Martha
2017年05月22日
Growing Beets in Containers is easy. This quick growing vegetable doesn’t require much care and perfect for beginner container gardeners.
Beets are one of the fast growing vegetables and if you’ve grown other root vegetables like radishes or carrots, then growing beets in containers is not much different.
Choosing a pot
Use any type of container you find best with SUFFICIENT drainage holes. However, clay pots are an excellent choice. Growing beets is possible in small pots but ensure they are minimum 8 inches deep. 10 to 12 inches deep pots are IDEAL as they will encourage roots to develop! You can choose as much wide container as you want. The wider it would be the more plants you can grow together. Window boxes or large rectangular containers with the recommended depth are good choices.
When to begin planting
As a best practice, you can start planting beets in the spring, three-two weeks before the last (average) frost date in your area. You can continue to sow seeds every 3 to 4 weeks until when the temperature start to reach above 80 F (27 C). Again, you can begin planting in the late summer and early fall (autumn) when the temperature starts to come under the range of 85 F (29 C).
For warm tropical climate
As beets is a cool weather crop, those who live in warm subtropical or tropical areas (USDA Zones 9b-11) should grow it in late fall, winter and early spring.
Planting Beets in Pots
First thing first– Beets don’t like to be transplanted, so no role of seed trays! Pick desired pots and sow seeds 1/4 inch deep. Once they germinate and reach the significant height, you can select the healthiest seedlings and thin others apart to maintain the recommended 3 inches distance spacing. To speed up the germination, you can also soak the seeds overnight in nonchlorinated water before planting. However, if seeds are treated with fungicide, avoid this.
The seedlings will emerge anytime between 5 to 15 days, depending on the growing conditions. Until then keep the pots in a spot that is warm and receive mild sun and maintain the moisture in the soil. Once germinated, place the baby plants in the desired position and later when seedlings grow up to 3 inches tall, thin them. To maintain the spacing recommendation mentioned below.
Varieties
If you know how to grow beets in containers, you can try any variety. A few of them we’ve listed here are the Detroit Dark Red, Early Wonder, Sangria, and Sweetheart.
Requirements for Growing Beets in Containers
Position
Beets can be grown in full sun to part shade but for optimum growth choose a spot that receives full sun, at least 6 hours of sunlight is necessary. Also, make sure the spot you place your containers have good air circulation.
Soil
Soil that is loamy, penetrable and promotes the development of large roots is best for growing beet in a pot. Make sure your soil is rich in nutrients, you can also add a lot of compost. Also, avoid adding pebbles or stones in the soil or the bottom layer when growing this root vegetable.
If you’re not using commercial soil packet for growing beets, prepare your own potting mix by adding 1 part soil, 1 part compost or well-rotted manure, and 1 part perlite. If you want to make a soilless mix, add 1 part peat moss or coco peat, 1 part compost or well-rotted manure, and 1 part perlite, vermiculite or sand. You can also add time-based fertilizer that is low in nitrogen at the time of mixing the soil.Watering
If you don’t want hard and sinewy beetroots, water regularly and evenly. To keep the soil slightly moist all the time. Ensure you not let the soil dry out completely between the growing process and also avoid OVERWATERING.
Spacing
Maintain the 3 inches of distance between each plant from all direction for growing beets in pots successfully. You can grow each plant 2 inches apart, but this will hamper the growth of roots. For reference, the 12 inches wide rectangular pot can support around 4-5 plants.
Temperature
Keep in mind, the optimum temperature for growing beets in containers require a temperature around 50 F – 85 F (10 C – 29 C), but it can be grown in temperature as low as 40 F (4.5 C) and as high as 90 F (32 C) with difficulty.
Beet Care
Fertilizer
It’s a good idea to use time-based (slow release) fertilizer to add into the potting soil. As beets is a root vegetable and you may like to increase its root development, use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen but high in phosphorous and potassium. For example, a formula of NPK 5-10-10.
Once the beetroots growing in pots become one month and doing well, you can switch to a water-soluble fertilizer. With the same 5-10-10 formula. And if you see Nitrogen deficiency in soil, use the complete fertilizer with NPK in 20-20-20 ratio.
If you want to grow beets organically, side dress plants with compost or manure and feed the plants with compost tea every other week. As beets usually suffer from boron deficiency, you can add seaweed (an excellent source of boron) fertilizer in compost tea for optimum growth.Pests and Diseases
When growing beets in pots, you don’t have to worry about pests and diseases much. You can avoid most of the problems by not overwatering and avoiding overhead watering. The common culprits are root rot and scab. Leaf miners and common pests like aphids can affect the foliage growth.
Harvesting
Beets on average require anywhere from 6-8 weeks to get ready for harvest after germination. You can also harvest beet green to use in salads; the tender leaves taste delicious. You can start harvesting greens when leaves are a few inches long by cutting the outer leaves only and leaving the small inner foliage to grow, which you can harvest later.
Beets are one of the fast growing vegetables and if you’ve grown other root vegetables like radishes or carrots, then growing beets in containers is not much different.
Choosing a pot
Use any type of container you find best with SUFFICIENT drainage holes. However, clay pots are an excellent choice. Growing beets is possible in small pots but ensure they are minimum 8 inches deep. 10 to 12 inches deep pots are IDEAL as they will encourage roots to develop! You can choose as much wide container as you want. The wider it would be the more plants you can grow together. Window boxes or large rectangular containers with the recommended depth are good choices.
When to begin planting
As a best practice, you can start planting beets in the spring, three-two weeks before the last (average) frost date in your area. You can continue to sow seeds every 3 to 4 weeks until when the temperature start to reach above 80 F (27 C). Again, you can begin planting in the late summer and early fall (autumn) when the temperature starts to come under the range of 85 F (29 C).
For warm tropical climate
As beets is a cool weather crop, those who live in warm subtropical or tropical areas (USDA Zones 9b-11) should grow it in late fall, winter and early spring.
Planting Beets in Pots
First thing first– Beets don’t like to be transplanted, so no role of seed trays! Pick desired pots and sow seeds 1/4 inch deep. Once they germinate and reach the significant height, you can select the healthiest seedlings and thin others apart to maintain the recommended 3 inches distance spacing. To speed up the germination, you can also soak the seeds overnight in nonchlorinated water before planting. However, if seeds are treated with fungicide, avoid this.
The seedlings will emerge anytime between 5 to 15 days, depending on the growing conditions. Until then keep the pots in a spot that is warm and receive mild sun and maintain the moisture in the soil. Once germinated, place the baby plants in the desired position and later when seedlings grow up to 3 inches tall, thin them. To maintain the spacing recommendation mentioned below.
Varieties
If you know how to grow beets in containers, you can try any variety. A few of them we’ve listed here are the Detroit Dark Red, Early Wonder, Sangria, and Sweetheart.
Requirements for Growing Beets in Containers
Position
Beets can be grown in full sun to part shade but for optimum growth choose a spot that receives full sun, at least 6 hours of sunlight is necessary. Also, make sure the spot you place your containers have good air circulation.
Soil
Soil that is loamy, penetrable and promotes the development of large roots is best for growing beet in a pot. Make sure your soil is rich in nutrients, you can also add a lot of compost. Also, avoid adding pebbles or stones in the soil or the bottom layer when growing this root vegetable.
If you’re not using commercial soil packet for growing beets, prepare your own potting mix by adding 1 part soil, 1 part compost or well-rotted manure, and 1 part perlite. If you want to make a soilless mix, add 1 part peat moss or coco peat, 1 part compost or well-rotted manure, and 1 part perlite, vermiculite or sand. You can also add time-based fertilizer that is low in nitrogen at the time of mixing the soil.Watering
If you don’t want hard and sinewy beetroots, water regularly and evenly. To keep the soil slightly moist all the time. Ensure you not let the soil dry out completely between the growing process and also avoid OVERWATERING.
Spacing
Maintain the 3 inches of distance between each plant from all direction for growing beets in pots successfully. You can grow each plant 2 inches apart, but this will hamper the growth of roots. For reference, the 12 inches wide rectangular pot can support around 4-5 plants.
Temperature
Keep in mind, the optimum temperature for growing beets in containers require a temperature around 50 F – 85 F (10 C – 29 C), but it can be grown in temperature as low as 40 F (4.5 C) and as high as 90 F (32 C) with difficulty.
Beet Care
Fertilizer
It’s a good idea to use time-based (slow release) fertilizer to add into the potting soil. As beets is a root vegetable and you may like to increase its root development, use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen but high in phosphorous and potassium. For example, a formula of NPK 5-10-10.
Once the beetroots growing in pots become one month and doing well, you can switch to a water-soluble fertilizer. With the same 5-10-10 formula. And if you see Nitrogen deficiency in soil, use the complete fertilizer with NPK in 20-20-20 ratio.
If you want to grow beets organically, side dress plants with compost or manure and feed the plants with compost tea every other week. As beets usually suffer from boron deficiency, you can add seaweed (an excellent source of boron) fertilizer in compost tea for optimum growth.Pests and Diseases
When growing beets in pots, you don’t have to worry about pests and diseases much. You can avoid most of the problems by not overwatering and avoiding overhead watering. The common culprits are root rot and scab. Leaf miners and common pests like aphids can affect the foliage growth.
Harvesting
Beets on average require anywhere from 6-8 weeks to get ready for harvest after germination. You can also harvest beet green to use in salads; the tender leaves taste delicious. You can start harvesting greens when leaves are a few inches long by cutting the outer leaves only and leaving the small inner foliage to grow, which you can harvest later.
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文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Learn how to spinach in pots, it is one of the vegetables that you can grow in some shade and in any kind of space. Growing spinach in containers is easy too you can even grow it indoors on a windowsill.
USDA Zones— 3 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Spinacia oleracea (Scientific Name), Persian vegetable, palak, bōsī cài, 波斯菜, leafy greens
How to Grow Spinach in Pots
Growing Spinach in Pots from Seeds
Sow seeds 1/2 inches deep directly in containers or in a seed tray. Seedlings will germinate in 5-14 days depending on the variety and growing conditions. If you have sown seeds in a seed tray wait until 2-3 true leaves appear in each plant and then transplant them into the original pots carefully.
Choosing a pot
For growing spinach in pots, choose a pot that is least 6-8 inches deep. You don’t need a very deep pot rather use a wide pot. You can either use so many small pots and grow one plant in each or select large window boxes, wooden boxes or crates.
Spacing
Provide each spinach plant a space of 3 inches, if you want to pick large leaves give more space to each plant, 5 inches. If you want to harvest leaves at very young age, then this area can be reduced to 2 inches only. Divide the planter box into squares, and see how many plants will feel comfortable in it.
Requirements for Growing Spinach in ContainersPosition
If you are growing spinach in fall (autumn), keep the plant in a sunny spot (in mild climates) due to shorter days and less intensity of the sun. For spring and summer planting keep your potted plants in a location where it receives some shade, especially in the afternoon. In subtropical or tropical climate, place the containers in a spot that receives plenty of shade.
Soil
For growing spinach in containers, use quality potting mix rich in organic matter. The texture of soil must be crumbly and loamy. Avoid soil that clogs the drainage and remains waterlogged. Well-draining soil is most important factor for the optimum growth of spinach in containers. Soil pH must be neutral.
Watering
When growing spinach in containers avoid water stagnation because it will lead to the development of rot and various fungal diseases. Also, avoid wetting the foliage. Keep the soil moist but not soggy or wet. It is necessary to take care of good drainage in the pot.
Temperature
Spinach seeds germinate in temperatures as low as 40 F (4 C) and in high temperatures too. The best soil temperature for growing spinach falls in the range of 50-80 F (10-27 C). Many spinach cultivars can tolerate temperature down to 20 F (-6) and up to 90 F (32 C) easily. Once the temperature starts to soar high you may need to provide shade to your plants.
Growing Spinach Indoors
Growing spinach indoors on a windowsill is a great idea (as it doesn’t require a lot of sunlight) if you’re short of outdoor space. For this, buy a few 6 inches deep small pots and grow spinach in them. You can also grow herbs and annual flowers there.
Also Read: How to Make a Windowsill Herb Garden
Spinach Care
Growing spinach in pots doesn’t need special care. Regular watering, fertilizing and the right soil is the key to the great harvest.
Fertilizing
For growing healthy green spinach, you have to provide nitrogen. At the time of planting, you can mix time-based fertilizer or you can add a lot of compost or well-rotted manure, this will provide nutrients slowly. Feeding the plant with fish emulsion, compost or manure tea in the middle of the growth and so on is a nice organic way to promote the plants. If you have not done added time-based fertilizer, you can also feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer at regular intervals.
Mulching
Do mulching, even if you’re growing spinach in pots. Mulching plants with organic matter will help in retaining moisture.
Pests and Diseases
You don’t need to worry much about pests as you’re growing spinach in containers, in a small space and you can easily control them. However, keeping an eye on leaf-eating insects like slugs and caterpillars and other common garden pests like aphids will help you in eliminating them in time.
A Few Tips for Growing Spinach in Tropics
It is a cool season crop but growing spinach in tropics and subtropics is extremely easy, moreover, you can grow it successively as a bi-annual crop, except in hot summer months. You’ll need to provide it shade and enough water to keep the soil temperature cool and moist.
In warm weather, vegetables like lettuce and spinach begin to bolt early and start to set seeds. One of the most important thing you need to consider when growing spinach in tropics is to grow heat tolerant varieties (there are a lot of Asian varieties that are suitable for tropical climate) that grow slowly and do not bolt quickly. These varieties easily tolerate the heat and humidity.
Harvesting
The spinach plant will be ready for harvest 37-50 days after germination depending on the growing conditions and cultivar.
Harvesting can be done when the plant has formed at least 5-6 healthy leaves and they are at least 3-4 inches long. Pick outer leaves first and leave the new inner leaves so that they continue to grow or cut the whole plant off at the base with a knife or scissor, the plant will resprout again.
When the weather becomes humid and hot (in warm climates) the plant tends to form an erect stem, on which you can see some small yellow or green flowers developing. To coincide with the flowering and the subsequent production of flowers, the foliage of the plant thickens and changes in flavor (more bitter), which is called bolting so it is convenient to harvest the plant before it starts flowering for better taste.
USDA Zones— 3 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Spinacia oleracea (Scientific Name), Persian vegetable, palak, bōsī cài, 波斯菜, leafy greens
How to Grow Spinach in Pots
Growing Spinach in Pots from Seeds
Sow seeds 1/2 inches deep directly in containers or in a seed tray. Seedlings will germinate in 5-14 days depending on the variety and growing conditions. If you have sown seeds in a seed tray wait until 2-3 true leaves appear in each plant and then transplant them into the original pots carefully.
Choosing a pot
For growing spinach in pots, choose a pot that is least 6-8 inches deep. You don’t need a very deep pot rather use a wide pot. You can either use so many small pots and grow one plant in each or select large window boxes, wooden boxes or crates.
Spacing
Provide each spinach plant a space of 3 inches, if you want to pick large leaves give more space to each plant, 5 inches. If you want to harvest leaves at very young age, then this area can be reduced to 2 inches only. Divide the planter box into squares, and see how many plants will feel comfortable in it.
Requirements for Growing Spinach in ContainersPosition
If you are growing spinach in fall (autumn), keep the plant in a sunny spot (in mild climates) due to shorter days and less intensity of the sun. For spring and summer planting keep your potted plants in a location where it receives some shade, especially in the afternoon. In subtropical or tropical climate, place the containers in a spot that receives plenty of shade.
Soil
For growing spinach in containers, use quality potting mix rich in organic matter. The texture of soil must be crumbly and loamy. Avoid soil that clogs the drainage and remains waterlogged. Well-draining soil is most important factor for the optimum growth of spinach in containers. Soil pH must be neutral.
Watering
When growing spinach in containers avoid water stagnation because it will lead to the development of rot and various fungal diseases. Also, avoid wetting the foliage. Keep the soil moist but not soggy or wet. It is necessary to take care of good drainage in the pot.
Temperature
Spinach seeds germinate in temperatures as low as 40 F (4 C) and in high temperatures too. The best soil temperature for growing spinach falls in the range of 50-80 F (10-27 C). Many spinach cultivars can tolerate temperature down to 20 F (-6) and up to 90 F (32 C) easily. Once the temperature starts to soar high you may need to provide shade to your plants.
Growing Spinach Indoors
Growing spinach indoors on a windowsill is a great idea (as it doesn’t require a lot of sunlight) if you’re short of outdoor space. For this, buy a few 6 inches deep small pots and grow spinach in them. You can also grow herbs and annual flowers there.
Also Read: How to Make a Windowsill Herb Garden
Spinach Care
Growing spinach in pots doesn’t need special care. Regular watering, fertilizing and the right soil is the key to the great harvest.
Fertilizing
For growing healthy green spinach, you have to provide nitrogen. At the time of planting, you can mix time-based fertilizer or you can add a lot of compost or well-rotted manure, this will provide nutrients slowly. Feeding the plant with fish emulsion, compost or manure tea in the middle of the growth and so on is a nice organic way to promote the plants. If you have not done added time-based fertilizer, you can also feed the plant with balanced liquid fertilizer at regular intervals.
Mulching
Do mulching, even if you’re growing spinach in pots. Mulching plants with organic matter will help in retaining moisture.
Pests and Diseases
You don’t need to worry much about pests as you’re growing spinach in containers, in a small space and you can easily control them. However, keeping an eye on leaf-eating insects like slugs and caterpillars and other common garden pests like aphids will help you in eliminating them in time.
A Few Tips for Growing Spinach in Tropics
It is a cool season crop but growing spinach in tropics and subtropics is extremely easy, moreover, you can grow it successively as a bi-annual crop, except in hot summer months. You’ll need to provide it shade and enough water to keep the soil temperature cool and moist.
In warm weather, vegetables like lettuce and spinach begin to bolt early and start to set seeds. One of the most important thing you need to consider when growing spinach in tropics is to grow heat tolerant varieties (there are a lot of Asian varieties that are suitable for tropical climate) that grow slowly and do not bolt quickly. These varieties easily tolerate the heat and humidity.
Harvesting
The spinach plant will be ready for harvest 37-50 days after germination depending on the growing conditions and cultivar.
Harvesting can be done when the plant has formed at least 5-6 healthy leaves and they are at least 3-4 inches long. Pick outer leaves first and leave the new inner leaves so that they continue to grow or cut the whole plant off at the base with a knife or scissor, the plant will resprout again.
When the weather becomes humid and hot (in warm climates) the plant tends to form an erect stem, on which you can see some small yellow or green flowers developing. To coincide with the flowering and the subsequent production of flowers, the foliage of the plant thickens and changes in flavor (more bitter), which is called bolting so it is convenient to harvest the plant before it starts flowering for better taste.
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文章
Hande Salcan
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow prickly pear cactus in this article. Growing prickly pear cactus and its care is not difficult, if you grow it in right growing conditions.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Barbary-fig Cactus, Cactus Pear Fruit, Gracemere-Pear, Indian-fig, Indian fig, Nopal Cactus, Oponce, Opuntia, Opuntia cardona, Opuntia ficus, Opuntia ficus-indica, Opuntia fuliginosa, Opuntia hyptiacantha, Opuntia lasciacantha, Opuntia macrocentra, Opuntia megacantha, Opuntia puberula, Opuntia streptacantha, Opuntia velutina, Opuntia violacea, Tuna Cardona, Westwood-Pear.
Also known as Indian fig, prickly pear is a common succulent plant in Mediterranean and subtropical regions. It is grown as an ornamental plant and for its juicy fruits. Prickly pear cactus is undemanding and easy to grow. It grows about 1 – 2.5 m high. The flowers are very showy, colors ranging from white, yellow, to orange, depending more on the variety.How to Grow Prickly Pear CactusPropagation
Prickly pear cactus can be propagated from seeds or pads. Growing prickly pear from the pad is comparatively easy than seeds. To facilitate the rooting, it is preferable to wait until the cuts are perfectly healed (about 1 – 2 week) before planting. Tuck them an inch deep on the ground or in containers. The rooting takes place in a short time, usually in a month. Save the rooting pad from afternoon sun and water it when top one inch of soil seems dry.
Location
Growing prickly pear cactus in a sunny location allows the plant to thrive and fruit. Prickly pear cactus is a tropical or subtropical plant, so it loves the warm exposure. However, it can withstand temperatures down to 14 F (-10 C), but in areas, with harsh winters it is best to plant it in a sheltered spot, near a wall or tall tree to protect it from cold drafts and fluctuation in temperature. If you’re living in a cooler climate, growing prickly pear cactus in a container is the better option for you as it can only be grown on the ground where winter temperature remains above 14 F (- 10 C).
Requirements for Growing Prickly Pear CactusSoil
Grow it in well-drained, sandy and loamy soil, avoid clay-rich soil that is not well draining and remains moist. For growing prickly pear cactus in a container use potting mix or 1/3 part each of compost, soil, and coarse sand or perlite.
Watering
Watering should be done only when the surface looks dry. On average, during the spring and summer, water it once or twice a week and during the fall and winter once or twice a month. If you’re living in tropics more frequent watering will be required.
Repotting
If growing in a pot, the plant must be repotted once it is root bound. Whenever you identify that the plant is growing slowly, repot it. The best repotting time is spring.
Prickly Pear Cactus Care
Prickly pear cactus care involves several steps that are given below.
Fertilizer
From spring to fall, fertilize every month with a liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer to promote flowering and fruiting. For the young plant, fertilize with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Do not feed in winter in cooler zones when plant stops to grow.
Pruning
Pruning is done in spring or late summer by removing the pads that come into contact with each other or those that are damaged or poorly formed.
Overwintering
Prickly pear cactus care in winter is essential. If you’re growing prickly pear cactus in a pot, protect it in winter by keeping it indoors. If growing outside, do mulching to insulate the plant from temperature drop.
Fruit thinning
Fruit thinning is done to get a better harvest. It is necessary to remove extra fruits and flowers to get lower production but of improved quality. It is recommended that thinning must be done two weeks before the formation of the fruits, leaving approximately up to 10 fruits per stalk.
Pests and Diseases
Mealybugs, spider mites, and cochineal might attack it. It is also attacked by fruit flies and moths.
Too much water or cold causes rotting. As soon as you detect the softening of tissues, remove the rotten part and treat the infected part with fungicide.
Harvesting
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Barbary-fig Cactus, Cactus Pear Fruit, Gracemere-Pear, Indian-fig, Indian fig, Nopal Cactus, Oponce, Opuntia, Opuntia cardona, Opuntia ficus, Opuntia ficus-indica, Opuntia fuliginosa, Opuntia hyptiacantha, Opuntia lasciacantha, Opuntia macrocentra, Opuntia megacantha, Opuntia puberula, Opuntia streptacantha, Opuntia velutina, Opuntia violacea, Tuna Cardona, Westwood-Pear.
Also known as Indian fig, prickly pear is a common succulent plant in Mediterranean and subtropical regions. It is grown as an ornamental plant and for its juicy fruits. Prickly pear cactus is undemanding and easy to grow. It grows about 1 – 2.5 m high. The flowers are very showy, colors ranging from white, yellow, to orange, depending more on the variety.How to Grow Prickly Pear CactusPropagation
Prickly pear cactus can be propagated from seeds or pads. Growing prickly pear from the pad is comparatively easy than seeds. To facilitate the rooting, it is preferable to wait until the cuts are perfectly healed (about 1 – 2 week) before planting. Tuck them an inch deep on the ground or in containers. The rooting takes place in a short time, usually in a month. Save the rooting pad from afternoon sun and water it when top one inch of soil seems dry.
Location
Growing prickly pear cactus in a sunny location allows the plant to thrive and fruit. Prickly pear cactus is a tropical or subtropical plant, so it loves the warm exposure. However, it can withstand temperatures down to 14 F (-10 C), but in areas, with harsh winters it is best to plant it in a sheltered spot, near a wall or tall tree to protect it from cold drafts and fluctuation in temperature. If you’re living in a cooler climate, growing prickly pear cactus in a container is the better option for you as it can only be grown on the ground where winter temperature remains above 14 F (- 10 C).
Requirements for Growing Prickly Pear CactusSoil
Grow it in well-drained, sandy and loamy soil, avoid clay-rich soil that is not well draining and remains moist. For growing prickly pear cactus in a container use potting mix or 1/3 part each of compost, soil, and coarse sand or perlite.
Watering
Watering should be done only when the surface looks dry. On average, during the spring and summer, water it once or twice a week and during the fall and winter once or twice a month. If you’re living in tropics more frequent watering will be required.
Repotting
If growing in a pot, the plant must be repotted once it is root bound. Whenever you identify that the plant is growing slowly, repot it. The best repotting time is spring.
Prickly Pear Cactus Care
Prickly pear cactus care involves several steps that are given below.
Fertilizer
From spring to fall, fertilize every month with a liquid 5-10-10 fertilizer to promote flowering and fruiting. For the young plant, fertilize with 10-10-10 fertilizer. Do not feed in winter in cooler zones when plant stops to grow.
Pruning
Pruning is done in spring or late summer by removing the pads that come into contact with each other or those that are damaged or poorly formed.
Overwintering
Prickly pear cactus care in winter is essential. If you’re growing prickly pear cactus in a pot, protect it in winter by keeping it indoors. If growing outside, do mulching to insulate the plant from temperature drop.
Fruit thinning
Fruit thinning is done to get a better harvest. It is necessary to remove extra fruits and flowers to get lower production but of improved quality. It is recommended that thinning must be done two weeks before the formation of the fruits, leaving approximately up to 10 fruits per stalk.
Pests and Diseases
Mealybugs, spider mites, and cochineal might attack it. It is also attacked by fruit flies and moths.
Too much water or cold causes rotting. As soon as you detect the softening of tissues, remove the rotten part and treat the infected part with fungicide.
Harvesting
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文章
Juze
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow sugar apple tree in this complete article. Growing sugar apple is easy but getting high yield is moderately difficult. With the sugar apple tree care tips and requirements given below you can grow this sweetest and creamy tropical fruit in your yard.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Moderate
Other Names— anón, anón de azucar, anona blanca, fruta do conde, cachiman, saramuyo, grenadilla, qishta, ishta, shta, seureuba, fruta-do-conde, fruta-pinha, fruta-de-conde, condessa, pinha, ata, anona, aajaa thee, plae teib, Zimtapfel, Gishta, γλυκόμηλο, kachiman, foreign lychee (番鬼荔枝), hvaðerþetta, (शरीफ़ा/सीताफल), sitaphala, seethappazham, sitaphal, sitappalam, sita phalamu, Sita’s fruit, srikaya, sweetsop, sweet-sop, matomoko, conicony, buah nona, hairico, pomme cannelle, aati, saripha, fasadabur, Sharifa (شريفا), atis, Anoda, Katu Atha, sakya, pinyin, sek-khia, sek-kia, matopetope, noi-na (น้อยหน่า), ekistaferi, mãng cầu ta, Khirmish (خرمش).
The sugar apple (Annona squamosa) belongs to the Annonaceae family. Its exact place of origin is unknown. Although previously it was believed that it is a native of the India, but recently found historical and philological data makes this ambiguous and it is believed that it is of either Indian or Central American origin. The cultivation is most common in Brazil and India and there it is one of the most important fruit crops. In Australia and India, it is also known as custard apple.
Sugar Apple Tree Information
It is a low-growing semi-deciduous tree or large shrub that grows between 3-7 m high, with spreading or open crown, formed by branches growing in the irregular form. Young shoots grow zigzag and are grayish-waxy, odorous when crushed.
The leaves are simple, alternate, elliptical and 5-11 cm long with 2-5 cm width. They are dark green on the top and light blue-green on the underside with smooth edges.
The flowers are pendulous, axillary, hermaphrodite (bisexual) and usually solitary but can grow in groups of two to four. Sugar apple flowers are fragrant and have a green tint in outside and cream on the inside. These flowers are 1 to 1/2 inch long and have six petals.
The fruits are oval shaped, from 5 to 12 cm in diameter of green-yellowish color. Externally the union of the carpels is lax. The pulp is white or yellowish between binding carpels with many seeds. It is sweet, aromatic, buttery, edible, of pleasant and creamy flavor.
The seeds are oblong, black and shiny, 1.25 cm in length. The seed kernels contain between 14 to 49% oil that is used as a substitute for peanut oil in the manufacture of soap.
How to Grow Sugar Apple TreeGrowing Sugar Apple from Seeds
Seed propagation is the traditional method through which the sugar apple tree is grown. It is the most used propagation method. However, this method has several disadvantages such as low germination rate, high genetic variability, late start of the harvest and the plants are taller and rather difficult to handle.
Collect seeds from fully ripe fruit from a tree that has excellent production, great taste, and good health. The seeds quickly lose their viability (approximately 6 months) therefore, they should be planted as soon as possible.
Seed should be planted horizontally, 2 – 3 cm deep at a distance of 1.5 cm in a good quality seed mix. Generally, the germination occurs within 30 days. Although, its germination rate is low and time is slow due to the tough seed coating.
Also Read: Seed Germination Tips
To speed up the germination and success rate, scarify the seeds with sandpaper. After scarification soak them in warm water for 24 hours. You can directly sow the seeds on the planting site or sow them in a small pot. The transplanting is done when seedlings have outgrown their existing pot.
Buy a Grafted Tree
The other type of propagation is vegetative propagation using grafts. This method is the most recommended because it ensures plants with the same genetic identity, with a better production, healthy tree and quality fruits. If possible, buy a grafted tree from a nursery.
Planting Sugar Apple Tree
Plants should be planted 4 x 4 or 5 x 5 m apart. The size of the planting hole depends on the size of the plant and its root ball, but generally, the planting hole should be twice wide and of the same depth of the root ball.
How to Grow a Sugar Apple Tree in Pot
It is possible to grow sugar apple tree in a pot. It is similar to other tropical fruit trees like guava or pomegranate. Regular pruning will be required. Besides this, all the growing requirements, which are given below are similar to the sugar apple tree planted on the ground.
Varieties
The ‘Seedless Cuban’ is one of the most important cultivars. Its fruits are slightly malformed and medium-sized with traces of undeveloped seeds. The flavor is less attractive than normal fruit but it is more productive.
Indian horticulturists recognized ten types of sugar apple cultivars, which are given below:
‘Red’ (A. squamosa var. Sangareddyiz)‘Red-speckled’CrimsonYellowWhite-stemmedMammothBalangarKakarlapahadWashingtonBarbadosBritish GuianaRequirements for Growing Sugar Apple TreeIdeal Climate and Temperature
The most optimum temperature for growing sugar apple tree is around 50 F – 85 F (10 – 30 C). Despite being a tropical tree, sugar apple has some resistance to the cold. However, when the temperature falls below 32 F (0 C) emerging seedlings and young plants die. Mature trees show some frost tolerance to some degrees below the freezing point. Furthermore, the temperatures above or below optimum temperature affect pollination, can cause fruit or bud drop and reduce post-harvest life.
Waterin
The plant easily handles extended periods of drought. However, excessive drought can cause leaf and fruit drop. For optimum growth, it requires an annual rainfall between 750 and 1,200 mm. In rainy watering must be stopped. Generally, you should water a mature tree in every 12 to 15 days (more on this below).
Also Read: How to Grow Pineapple Guava
There must be adequate moisture in the soil to encourage vegetative growth and blooms that occur on the new branches. The tree should be watered in every 2 – 4 weeks during the period of low growth and every 3 to 5 days while it is flowering and setting fruits. The water stress must be prevented and soil must be kept moist at this time as the fruit is more sensitive than the leaves to lack of water.
Soil
It is undemanding when it comes to soil type. *Sitaphal cultivation (*common name in the Indian subcontinent) can be done in poor, stony soil of pH level 7-8. Though it grows in a wide range of soils, from sandy, clay to loam, but the healthiest and the productive tree is grown in fertile, loose, deep and neutral or slightly alkaline soil that is not sandy with good drainage and aeration. Furthermore, the drainage is essential to prevent diseases. The growth is directly related to the content of organic matter in the soil.
Humidity
Relative humidity is one of the climatic factors that is highly responsible in the formation of flowers and pollination. Therefore, if you want to increase productivity, humidity should be maintained above 60% especially during the flowering period.
Sugar Apple Tree Care
Fertilizer
Application of complete fertilizer in the initial years of planting is recommended. Once the tree matures enough and able to set fruits the use of 3: 10: 10 fertilizer significantly increases the flowering, fruit setting, and harvest.
As for organic fertilization, sugar apple responds well to the application of organic matter from its earliest period of growth. The application of organic fertilizer improves the texture of soil and its condition and facilitates root development. It is recommended to apply 60 to 80 kg of aged manure or compost annually.
Pollination
One of the main problems affecting the yield and fruit quality of sugar apple tree is its low rate of pollination of flowers and the consequent production of fruit.
Sugar apple has complete flowers (bisexual), however, the male and female flower parts are functional at different times of the day (called *protandry, a condition in which an organism begins life as a male or female and changes the sex later). Sugar apple flowers first open during the day as a female flower. If female flower isn’t pollinated, early in the next morning the flowers open wider and shed pollen (male stage). It is recommended to attract pollinating insects or hand pollinate the flowers for best yield. To find out how to hand pollinate flowers, read this.
This cycle is shortened when temperatures are high and lengthened when they are low.
Pruning Sugar Apple Tree
Pruning must be done only in the spring if you are in a cold climate. Sugar apple trees tend to form many branches, so pruning is recommended to train the tree into required shape and regulating a number of main branches.
Maintenance pruning serves to preserve the balance of the tree structure by removing suckers or shoots and branches that are growing in the wrong direction or directed towards the ground.
Likewise, you should do a sanitary pruning after each harvest, a sanitary pruning is the removal of branches and fruits that are damaged or have pest or disease problem.
Renewal pruning is done after around 10 years when the tree has gone old and have less vigor and production. In renewal pruning, the tree must be trimmed strongly but in several stages so that it will start its growth once again.
Wind Protection
Like all the other softwood trees, the sugar apple is susceptible to wind damage. Breakage and tearing of branches is possible. Plus, the sugar apple fruits get easily damaged due to rubbing of branches. Furthermore, the strong, dry winds accelerate the drying of stigma, thus reduced pollination. Therefore, it should be planted in a location that is sheltered from the wind.
Weed management
Growing sugar apple tree requires weed management. It causes the biggest drawbacks during young stages. The control can be manual, mechanical, or inert, with the use of herbicides or by doing a combination of methods. You can also do mulching to stop weeds. The best way is to weed regularly and prevent the growth of other plants near the base of the tree.
Also Read: Effective Weeding Tips
Sugar Apple Pests and DiseasesPest Management
The sugar apple is very vulnerable to pests, this reduces its production.
Usually, the pests and insects infest the fruits and cause destruction. Best practice is to protect the fruits using fruit covers. Plastic bag, paper or polyethylene can be used to wrap the fruits since the initial stage of development. The bags must cover the fruit throughout their development but must be open at the base and have micro perforations to allow gaseous water leakage because the excess moisture causes fruit rot.
Chemical control measures are difficult so it is better to prevent the pests by keeping the tree healthy also remember the use of insecticides destroys the friendly insects and pollinators. Some of the most common and major pests you need to look for are the moths, aphids, mealybugs and scales.
Disease Management
Among the most common diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot. These diseases occur with severity in times of rain, high and stable temperature and relative humidity.
Harvesting Sugar Apples
The sugar apple tree begins to produce fruits at the age of 3-4 years and declines after 12-15 years. An average adult tree produces between 100-180 fruits a year.
The decision of the optimal harvest time is something critical. In addition, all fruits do not ripen at the same time and the time of the collection varies depending on the variety and conditions of weather where they are grown.
Visual methods based on the discoloration of the skin and shape of the fruit are the most commonly used today to decide when to harvest.
Another indication of ripening is the change in color of seeds, which pass from light brown color to almost black at ripened stage.
These criteria are generally unreliable to indicate proper maturity and fruits are sometimes harvested before ripening. That’s why commercial producers use chemicals to ripen the fruit post harvest.
Fruits must be harvested by cutting the stem using a pruning shears. Also, it should be harvested in the morning. The sugar apple fruit is very delicate and should be harvested with extra care.
Sugar Apple Uses
The fruits are consumed mainly fresh, as they have a rich creamy, sweet flavor. They are very delicious, nutritious, rich in sugar, protein, and phosphorus, with a highly digestible pulp.
They are also used in desserts and in the recipes of juices, sorbets, desserts, wine and ice cream.
USDA Zones— 9 – 11
Difficulty— Moderate
Other Names— anón, anón de azucar, anona blanca, fruta do conde, cachiman, saramuyo, grenadilla, qishta, ishta, shta, seureuba, fruta-do-conde, fruta-pinha, fruta-de-conde, condessa, pinha, ata, anona, aajaa thee, plae teib, Zimtapfel, Gishta, γλυκόμηλο, kachiman, foreign lychee (番鬼荔枝), hvaðerþetta, (शरीफ़ा/सीताफल), sitaphala, seethappazham, sitaphal, sitappalam, sita phalamu, Sita’s fruit, srikaya, sweetsop, sweet-sop, matomoko, conicony, buah nona, hairico, pomme cannelle, aati, saripha, fasadabur, Sharifa (شريفا), atis, Anoda, Katu Atha, sakya, pinyin, sek-khia, sek-kia, matopetope, noi-na (น้อยหน่า), ekistaferi, mãng cầu ta, Khirmish (خرمش).
The sugar apple (Annona squamosa) belongs to the Annonaceae family. Its exact place of origin is unknown. Although previously it was believed that it is a native of the India, but recently found historical and philological data makes this ambiguous and it is believed that it is of either Indian or Central American origin. The cultivation is most common in Brazil and India and there it is one of the most important fruit crops. In Australia and India, it is also known as custard apple.
Sugar Apple Tree Information
It is a low-growing semi-deciduous tree or large shrub that grows between 3-7 m high, with spreading or open crown, formed by branches growing in the irregular form. Young shoots grow zigzag and are grayish-waxy, odorous when crushed.
The leaves are simple, alternate, elliptical and 5-11 cm long with 2-5 cm width. They are dark green on the top and light blue-green on the underside with smooth edges.
The flowers are pendulous, axillary, hermaphrodite (bisexual) and usually solitary but can grow in groups of two to four. Sugar apple flowers are fragrant and have a green tint in outside and cream on the inside. These flowers are 1 to 1/2 inch long and have six petals.
The fruits are oval shaped, from 5 to 12 cm in diameter of green-yellowish color. Externally the union of the carpels is lax. The pulp is white or yellowish between binding carpels with many seeds. It is sweet, aromatic, buttery, edible, of pleasant and creamy flavor.
The seeds are oblong, black and shiny, 1.25 cm in length. The seed kernels contain between 14 to 49% oil that is used as a substitute for peanut oil in the manufacture of soap.
How to Grow Sugar Apple TreeGrowing Sugar Apple from Seeds
Seed propagation is the traditional method through which the sugar apple tree is grown. It is the most used propagation method. However, this method has several disadvantages such as low germination rate, high genetic variability, late start of the harvest and the plants are taller and rather difficult to handle.
Collect seeds from fully ripe fruit from a tree that has excellent production, great taste, and good health. The seeds quickly lose their viability (approximately 6 months) therefore, they should be planted as soon as possible.
Seed should be planted horizontally, 2 – 3 cm deep at a distance of 1.5 cm in a good quality seed mix. Generally, the germination occurs within 30 days. Although, its germination rate is low and time is slow due to the tough seed coating.
Also Read: Seed Germination Tips
To speed up the germination and success rate, scarify the seeds with sandpaper. After scarification soak them in warm water for 24 hours. You can directly sow the seeds on the planting site or sow them in a small pot. The transplanting is done when seedlings have outgrown their existing pot.
Buy a Grafted Tree
The other type of propagation is vegetative propagation using grafts. This method is the most recommended because it ensures plants with the same genetic identity, with a better production, healthy tree and quality fruits. If possible, buy a grafted tree from a nursery.
Planting Sugar Apple Tree
Plants should be planted 4 x 4 or 5 x 5 m apart. The size of the planting hole depends on the size of the plant and its root ball, but generally, the planting hole should be twice wide and of the same depth of the root ball.
How to Grow a Sugar Apple Tree in Pot
It is possible to grow sugar apple tree in a pot. It is similar to other tropical fruit trees like guava or pomegranate. Regular pruning will be required. Besides this, all the growing requirements, which are given below are similar to the sugar apple tree planted on the ground.
Varieties
The ‘Seedless Cuban’ is one of the most important cultivars. Its fruits are slightly malformed and medium-sized with traces of undeveloped seeds. The flavor is less attractive than normal fruit but it is more productive.
Indian horticulturists recognized ten types of sugar apple cultivars, which are given below:
‘Red’ (A. squamosa var. Sangareddyiz)‘Red-speckled’CrimsonYellowWhite-stemmedMammothBalangarKakarlapahadWashingtonBarbadosBritish GuianaRequirements for Growing Sugar Apple TreeIdeal Climate and Temperature
The most optimum temperature for growing sugar apple tree is around 50 F – 85 F (10 – 30 C). Despite being a tropical tree, sugar apple has some resistance to the cold. However, when the temperature falls below 32 F (0 C) emerging seedlings and young plants die. Mature trees show some frost tolerance to some degrees below the freezing point. Furthermore, the temperatures above or below optimum temperature affect pollination, can cause fruit or bud drop and reduce post-harvest life.
Waterin
The plant easily handles extended periods of drought. However, excessive drought can cause leaf and fruit drop. For optimum growth, it requires an annual rainfall between 750 and 1,200 mm. In rainy watering must be stopped. Generally, you should water a mature tree in every 12 to 15 days (more on this below).
Also Read: How to Grow Pineapple Guava
There must be adequate moisture in the soil to encourage vegetative growth and blooms that occur on the new branches. The tree should be watered in every 2 – 4 weeks during the period of low growth and every 3 to 5 days while it is flowering and setting fruits. The water stress must be prevented and soil must be kept moist at this time as the fruit is more sensitive than the leaves to lack of water.
Soil
It is undemanding when it comes to soil type. *Sitaphal cultivation (*common name in the Indian subcontinent) can be done in poor, stony soil of pH level 7-8. Though it grows in a wide range of soils, from sandy, clay to loam, but the healthiest and the productive tree is grown in fertile, loose, deep and neutral or slightly alkaline soil that is not sandy with good drainage and aeration. Furthermore, the drainage is essential to prevent diseases. The growth is directly related to the content of organic matter in the soil.
Humidity
Relative humidity is one of the climatic factors that is highly responsible in the formation of flowers and pollination. Therefore, if you want to increase productivity, humidity should be maintained above 60% especially during the flowering period.
Sugar Apple Tree Care
Fertilizer
Application of complete fertilizer in the initial years of planting is recommended. Once the tree matures enough and able to set fruits the use of 3: 10: 10 fertilizer significantly increases the flowering, fruit setting, and harvest.
As for organic fertilization, sugar apple responds well to the application of organic matter from its earliest period of growth. The application of organic fertilizer improves the texture of soil and its condition and facilitates root development. It is recommended to apply 60 to 80 kg of aged manure or compost annually.
Pollination
One of the main problems affecting the yield and fruit quality of sugar apple tree is its low rate of pollination of flowers and the consequent production of fruit.
Sugar apple has complete flowers (bisexual), however, the male and female flower parts are functional at different times of the day (called *protandry, a condition in which an organism begins life as a male or female and changes the sex later). Sugar apple flowers first open during the day as a female flower. If female flower isn’t pollinated, early in the next morning the flowers open wider and shed pollen (male stage). It is recommended to attract pollinating insects or hand pollinate the flowers for best yield. To find out how to hand pollinate flowers, read this.
This cycle is shortened when temperatures are high and lengthened when they are low.
Pruning Sugar Apple Tree
Pruning must be done only in the spring if you are in a cold climate. Sugar apple trees tend to form many branches, so pruning is recommended to train the tree into required shape and regulating a number of main branches.
Maintenance pruning serves to preserve the balance of the tree structure by removing suckers or shoots and branches that are growing in the wrong direction or directed towards the ground.
Likewise, you should do a sanitary pruning after each harvest, a sanitary pruning is the removal of branches and fruits that are damaged or have pest or disease problem.
Renewal pruning is done after around 10 years when the tree has gone old and have less vigor and production. In renewal pruning, the tree must be trimmed strongly but in several stages so that it will start its growth once again.
Wind Protection
Like all the other softwood trees, the sugar apple is susceptible to wind damage. Breakage and tearing of branches is possible. Plus, the sugar apple fruits get easily damaged due to rubbing of branches. Furthermore, the strong, dry winds accelerate the drying of stigma, thus reduced pollination. Therefore, it should be planted in a location that is sheltered from the wind.
Weed management
Growing sugar apple tree requires weed management. It causes the biggest drawbacks during young stages. The control can be manual, mechanical, or inert, with the use of herbicides or by doing a combination of methods. You can also do mulching to stop weeds. The best way is to weed regularly and prevent the growth of other plants near the base of the tree.
Also Read: Effective Weeding Tips
Sugar Apple Pests and DiseasesPest Management
The sugar apple is very vulnerable to pests, this reduces its production.
Usually, the pests and insects infest the fruits and cause destruction. Best practice is to protect the fruits using fruit covers. Plastic bag, paper or polyethylene can be used to wrap the fruits since the initial stage of development. The bags must cover the fruit throughout their development but must be open at the base and have micro perforations to allow gaseous water leakage because the excess moisture causes fruit rot.
Chemical control measures are difficult so it is better to prevent the pests by keeping the tree healthy also remember the use of insecticides destroys the friendly insects and pollinators. Some of the most common and major pests you need to look for are the moths, aphids, mealybugs and scales.
Disease Management
Among the most common diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot. These diseases occur with severity in times of rain, high and stable temperature and relative humidity.
Harvesting Sugar Apples
The sugar apple tree begins to produce fruits at the age of 3-4 years and declines after 12-15 years. An average adult tree produces between 100-180 fruits a year.
The decision of the optimal harvest time is something critical. In addition, all fruits do not ripen at the same time and the time of the collection varies depending on the variety and conditions of weather where they are grown.
Visual methods based on the discoloration of the skin and shape of the fruit are the most commonly used today to decide when to harvest.
Another indication of ripening is the change in color of seeds, which pass from light brown color to almost black at ripened stage.
These criteria are generally unreliable to indicate proper maturity and fruits are sometimes harvested before ripening. That’s why commercial producers use chemicals to ripen the fruit post harvest.
Fruits must be harvested by cutting the stem using a pruning shears. Also, it should be harvested in the morning. The sugar apple fruit is very delicate and should be harvested with extra care.
Sugar Apple Uses
The fruits are consumed mainly fresh, as they have a rich creamy, sweet flavor. They are very delicious, nutritious, rich in sugar, protein, and phosphorus, with a highly digestible pulp.
They are also used in desserts and in the recipes of juices, sorbets, desserts, wine and ice cream.
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Juze
2017年05月22日
Guava tree care and growing is easy. With the information given in this article, you can understand how to grow guava tree in a pot. It will delight you with its sweetly scented flowers, delicious fruits, and beautiful tropical appearance.
USDA Hardiness Zones— 9 – 11, *can be grown in colder zones in pot
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Psidium guajava, Amrood, Amrut Phala, Araçá-Goiaba, Araçá-Guaçú, Banjiro, Brazilian Guava, Brazilian Red Guava, Common Guava, Fan Shi Liu, Feuille de Goyavier, Goiaba, Goiabeiro, Goyabe, Goyave, Goyave Jaune, Goyave Rouge, Goyavier, Goyavier du Brésil, Guaiaba, Guaiava, Guajava, Guava Leaf, Guava Leaves, Guava Peel, Guava Pulp, Guava Seed, Guava Seed Protein, Guavas, Guave, Guavenbaum, Guayaba, Guayabo, Guayave, Koejawel, Lemon Guava, Pépin de Goyave, Psidium, Psidium guajava, Pulpe de Goyave, Red Guava, Yellow Guava, Bihi
Guava Tree Information
Guava tree is a small tropical tree that grows 5-6 meters high on average, but if properly pruning it does not exceed the height of 3 m. It is a tough plant that can also be grown in containers.
Guava tree stems are tender when they are angled. The leaves are born in pairs, pale green, leathery and elongated, ending in the sharp tip with a length ranging between 10 and 20 cm and 8 cm wide. The flowers are borne at the base of the leaves, about 1-3 per node, in the younger branches with a great number of stamens and one pistil. Fruit shape, size, the color of flesh and skin usually depends on the variety. Maturity is observed when the shell reaches a yellowish-green, yellow, pink or pale color.
Also read: How to make Guava Bonsai
Best Guava Varieties
Over 100 varieties of guavas are identified in the world, different from each other by their flavor and appearance. Most of them can be grown in containers but we are listing some of the best.
Guava Ruby SupremeLucknow 49Psidium Guajava Nana (Dwarf Guava)Tikal GuavaRed Malaysian (Also grown for ornamental purposes)PatriciaIndonesian SeedlessIndonesian WhiteSafedaGuava Tree PropagationGrowing Guava from Cuttings
Guava is propagated from cuttings and seeds. Growing guava from cuttings require specific temperature and humidity, this method is suitable in warm climates.
Growing Guava from Seeds
Guava seeds are propagated easily with high germination rate. The main thing is that they must be fresh and obtained from the quality source. You can also use seed fresh seeds collected from the fruit but it is better to buy seeds from a seed store or online.
If you are using seeds obtained from guava fruit. Firstly, rinse them in soft water, which is not very cold then wrap the seeds in a cloth and dry them for a couple of hours. Then pour them in a cup of warm water and soak the seeds for 3-4 hours. Prepare a pot filled with seed starting mix, and sprinkle seeds in it. Now put the pot on a warm, well-lit spot, like a windowsill. To speed up germination, you can install a small plastic or cellophane over the top of a pot.
Guava tree grown from seeds take 3-4 years to mature and start to form fruits. From cuttings, it grows more quickly. However, our recommendation for you is to buy a grafted guava tree. Most of the grafted trees start to bear fruit in the same year and remain healthy.Planting Guava Tree
Choosing a pot
Guava tree grows large (around 30 feet) but in pots, it can be reduced to 2-3 m. Choose a pot that is at least 3 gallon (10 inches) to provide the plant a sufficient space to grow roots. *It is best to choose a clay pot with sufficient drainage holes in the bottom.
Also Read: How to Grow Pineapple Guava
Requirements for Growing Guava Tree in a PotLocation
Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter, when grown on the ground.
If you are growing guava in a container in tropics you can choose a location that receives shade in the afternoon and at least six hours of sun daily. In colder zones, place the plant in a spot that receives full sun for healthy growth and more fruiting.
Soil
For growing guava in pots choose a quality potting mix or make your own substrate using equal parts compost, sand, and soil.
Growing guava is possible in a variety of soil types. It is one of the plants that tolerates different soil types easily. It can be grown in heavy clay-rich or very sandy soil with pH ranging from 4.5 (acidic) to 9.4 (alkaline), but a loose, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and neutral to slightly acidic in pH is optimum.
When growing guava in a pot choose a self-pollinating variety.
Temperature range
The optimum temperature for germination of guavas falls in the range of 68 to 82 F (20 to 28 C). In winters, the temperature must not fall below 27 F (-3 C) for young guava trees. Mature guava tree (at least 3 years old) can bear temperature down to 20 F (-6 C). Remember, guavas are not frost tolerant, especially young plants, so if in a climate where the temperature falls below the range given here then it is better to keep the plant indoors until the temperature rises up.
Watering
When the plant is young or forming flowers water it regularly and deeply to keep the soil slightly moist. Evenly moist soil at the time of fruiting helps in developing more juicy and sweet fruits. In winter reduce the watering. One of the most interesting facts about guava trees is that they are drought tolerant and once established they can survive only on rainfall and bear long periods of drought. Still, it better to keep the soil slightly moist.
Guava Tree CareGuava tree care is simple and easy and with a few basic information, you can grow a healthy plant.Pruning
Pruning guava is essential to keep guava tree growing in a pot in desired shape and size to develop a strong structure, healthy plant and increased fruiting.
Dry, dead, damaged or diseased branches can be pruned anytime. The crowns grow naturally and well-branched and do not need regular cutting. Best is to cut back too long, unbranched shoots and branches that are crossing each other and blocking the penetration of sun rays after the harvest or at the beginning of growing season.
Fruit Thinning
Whenever the first time your guava tree blooms to form fruits it is better to deadhead the flowers, never allowing the fruits to set (do this if your plant is weak).
Allow no more than 4 fruits per branch. Also, thin out the fruits if they are developing on a small and weak branch.
Repotting
Repot the plant in one size bigger than the previous one. Never plant a plant in a too big pot directly, albeit change the pot time to time once the plant has outgrown the current one.
Fertilizer
Guava responds well to the monthly fertilizing. When the tree is young and is not bearing fruits, fertilize your potted guava tree with 6:6:6:2 [N P K Mg] to speed up the growth of the plant.
When the tree starts to bear fruits change the composition to 8:3:9:2 [N P K Mg].
Guava tree is also susceptible to iron deficiency (symptoms includes yellowing of the leaves in between the dark green veins). It can be corrected or prevented by periodic application chelated iron.
Mulching
Do mulching with organic matter so that the plant retains moisture. Mulching also helps in insulating the root of guava tree in winter.
Pests and Diseases
Guava tree care from pests and diseases is not much required when grown in a pot. This fruit tree is very tough but you should keep an eye on common garden pests. Mealy bugs, guava scale, white flies, fruit flies and thrips can affect it.
In diseases, guava plant suffers from rust, which occurs in too warm weather and high humidity.Besides this, anthracnose and leaf spot can be a problem too, both of these occurs in wet humid weather and spread through splashed water. By proper irrigation, you can easily prevent this.
Harvesting Guavas
Most of the guava tree varieties are self-pollinating and fruit ripens year round in tropics (except summer). Guava fruits usually mature in 3 to 4 months after flowering.
In India, generally, the main crop arrives in winter and after the summer in the rainy season. Winter crop is more flavorsome and sweet.
Uses
Guava fruits taste better when picked earlier than they fully mature. Fruits are highly nutritious, rich in vitamin C and can be eaten raw, its seeds are edible too. Ripened fruits can be used to make guava ice-cream, juice, jam, chutney, sauce or desserts.
A Few Guava Tree Care TipsDo not abruptly change the location of your potted guava tree otherwise the plant may lose leaves (partially).To get a bushy plant, it is necessary to pinch the growing tip regularly.It is advisable to suspend the fertilizer during the winters. In tropics, you can continue it.
USDA Hardiness Zones— 9 – 11, *can be grown in colder zones in pot
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Psidium guajava, Amrood, Amrut Phala, Araçá-Goiaba, Araçá-Guaçú, Banjiro, Brazilian Guava, Brazilian Red Guava, Common Guava, Fan Shi Liu, Feuille de Goyavier, Goiaba, Goiabeiro, Goyabe, Goyave, Goyave Jaune, Goyave Rouge, Goyavier, Goyavier du Brésil, Guaiaba, Guaiava, Guajava, Guava Leaf, Guava Leaves, Guava Peel, Guava Pulp, Guava Seed, Guava Seed Protein, Guavas, Guave, Guavenbaum, Guayaba, Guayabo, Guayave, Koejawel, Lemon Guava, Pépin de Goyave, Psidium, Psidium guajava, Pulpe de Goyave, Red Guava, Yellow Guava, Bihi
Guava Tree Information
Guava tree is a small tropical tree that grows 5-6 meters high on average, but if properly pruning it does not exceed the height of 3 m. It is a tough plant that can also be grown in containers.
Guava tree stems are tender when they are angled. The leaves are born in pairs, pale green, leathery and elongated, ending in the sharp tip with a length ranging between 10 and 20 cm and 8 cm wide. The flowers are borne at the base of the leaves, about 1-3 per node, in the younger branches with a great number of stamens and one pistil. Fruit shape, size, the color of flesh and skin usually depends on the variety. Maturity is observed when the shell reaches a yellowish-green, yellow, pink or pale color.
Also read: How to make Guava Bonsai
Best Guava Varieties
Over 100 varieties of guavas are identified in the world, different from each other by their flavor and appearance. Most of them can be grown in containers but we are listing some of the best.
Guava Ruby SupremeLucknow 49Psidium Guajava Nana (Dwarf Guava)Tikal GuavaRed Malaysian (Also grown for ornamental purposes)PatriciaIndonesian SeedlessIndonesian WhiteSafedaGuava Tree PropagationGrowing Guava from Cuttings
Guava is propagated from cuttings and seeds. Growing guava from cuttings require specific temperature and humidity, this method is suitable in warm climates.
Growing Guava from Seeds
Guava seeds are propagated easily with high germination rate. The main thing is that they must be fresh and obtained from the quality source. You can also use seed fresh seeds collected from the fruit but it is better to buy seeds from a seed store or online.
If you are using seeds obtained from guava fruit. Firstly, rinse them in soft water, which is not very cold then wrap the seeds in a cloth and dry them for a couple of hours. Then pour them in a cup of warm water and soak the seeds for 3-4 hours. Prepare a pot filled with seed starting mix, and sprinkle seeds in it. Now put the pot on a warm, well-lit spot, like a windowsill. To speed up germination, you can install a small plastic or cellophane over the top of a pot.
Guava tree grown from seeds take 3-4 years to mature and start to form fruits. From cuttings, it grows more quickly. However, our recommendation for you is to buy a grafted guava tree. Most of the grafted trees start to bear fruit in the same year and remain healthy.Planting Guava Tree
Choosing a pot
Guava tree grows large (around 30 feet) but in pots, it can be reduced to 2-3 m. Choose a pot that is at least 3 gallon (10 inches) to provide the plant a sufficient space to grow roots. *It is best to choose a clay pot with sufficient drainage holes in the bottom.
Also Read: How to Grow Pineapple Guava
Requirements for Growing Guava Tree in a PotLocation
Guava loves the sunny and warm exposure. It is a tropical plant but very much adaptable to temperate climates with moderate winter, when grown on the ground.
If you are growing guava in a container in tropics you can choose a location that receives shade in the afternoon and at least six hours of sun daily. In colder zones, place the plant in a spot that receives full sun for healthy growth and more fruiting.
Soil
For growing guava in pots choose a quality potting mix or make your own substrate using equal parts compost, sand, and soil.
Growing guava is possible in a variety of soil types. It is one of the plants that tolerates different soil types easily. It can be grown in heavy clay-rich or very sandy soil with pH ranging from 4.5 (acidic) to 9.4 (alkaline), but a loose, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter and neutral to slightly acidic in pH is optimum.
When growing guava in a pot choose a self-pollinating variety.
Temperature range
The optimum temperature for germination of guavas falls in the range of 68 to 82 F (20 to 28 C). In winters, the temperature must not fall below 27 F (-3 C) for young guava trees. Mature guava tree (at least 3 years old) can bear temperature down to 20 F (-6 C). Remember, guavas are not frost tolerant, especially young plants, so if in a climate where the temperature falls below the range given here then it is better to keep the plant indoors until the temperature rises up.
Watering
When the plant is young or forming flowers water it regularly and deeply to keep the soil slightly moist. Evenly moist soil at the time of fruiting helps in developing more juicy and sweet fruits. In winter reduce the watering. One of the most interesting facts about guava trees is that they are drought tolerant and once established they can survive only on rainfall and bear long periods of drought. Still, it better to keep the soil slightly moist.
Guava Tree CareGuava tree care is simple and easy and with a few basic information, you can grow a healthy plant.Pruning
Pruning guava is essential to keep guava tree growing in a pot in desired shape and size to develop a strong structure, healthy plant and increased fruiting.
Dry, dead, damaged or diseased branches can be pruned anytime. The crowns grow naturally and well-branched and do not need regular cutting. Best is to cut back too long, unbranched shoots and branches that are crossing each other and blocking the penetration of sun rays after the harvest or at the beginning of growing season.
Fruit Thinning
Whenever the first time your guava tree blooms to form fruits it is better to deadhead the flowers, never allowing the fruits to set (do this if your plant is weak).
Allow no more than 4 fruits per branch. Also, thin out the fruits if they are developing on a small and weak branch.
Repotting
Repot the plant in one size bigger than the previous one. Never plant a plant in a too big pot directly, albeit change the pot time to time once the plant has outgrown the current one.
Fertilizer
Guava responds well to the monthly fertilizing. When the tree is young and is not bearing fruits, fertilize your potted guava tree with 6:6:6:2 [N P K Mg] to speed up the growth of the plant.
When the tree starts to bear fruits change the composition to 8:3:9:2 [N P K Mg].
Guava tree is also susceptible to iron deficiency (symptoms includes yellowing of the leaves in between the dark green veins). It can be corrected or prevented by periodic application chelated iron.
Mulching
Do mulching with organic matter so that the plant retains moisture. Mulching also helps in insulating the root of guava tree in winter.
Pests and Diseases
Guava tree care from pests and diseases is not much required when grown in a pot. This fruit tree is very tough but you should keep an eye on common garden pests. Mealy bugs, guava scale, white flies, fruit flies and thrips can affect it.
In diseases, guava plant suffers from rust, which occurs in too warm weather and high humidity.Besides this, anthracnose and leaf spot can be a problem too, both of these occurs in wet humid weather and spread through splashed water. By proper irrigation, you can easily prevent this.
Harvesting Guavas
Most of the guava tree varieties are self-pollinating and fruit ripens year round in tropics (except summer). Guava fruits usually mature in 3 to 4 months after flowering.
In India, generally, the main crop arrives in winter and after the summer in the rainy season. Winter crop is more flavorsome and sweet.
Uses
Guava fruits taste better when picked earlier than they fully mature. Fruits are highly nutritious, rich in vitamin C and can be eaten raw, its seeds are edible too. Ripened fruits can be used to make guava ice-cream, juice, jam, chutney, sauce or desserts.
A Few Guava Tree Care TipsDo not abruptly change the location of your potted guava tree otherwise the plant may lose leaves (partially).To get a bushy plant, it is necessary to pinch the growing tip regularly.It is advisable to suspend the fertilizer during the winters. In tropics, you can continue it.
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文章
Abigal
2017年05月22日
Check out these 18 Flowering Ground Cover Plants, you’ll find some best low growing plants on this list, they’re not only easy to grow but looks beautiful too.1. Bigroot Geranium (Geranium macrorrhizum)
This old fashioned tough and aggressive perennial ground cover is a good choice for gardeners who want to grow low maintenance plants. The plant barely grows up to 1-1.5 feet tall and loves the sun. Blooms appear when the weather warms up in colors like pink, red or pale pink with interesting variegated foliage. You can also plant it in groups under the trees, the bigroot geranium is a drought tolerant plant and best grown in temperates under USDA Zones 4 to 8b.
2. Spotted Dead Nettle
Dead nettle (Lamium maculatum) is notable for both its variegated foliage and its dense clusters of flowers, which appear in a variety of colors, including white, pink and purple (depending on the cultivar). This low growing plant can be grown diversely in different climates (USDA Zones 3-10), providing it cool, moist soil and shade to part shade. However, it must be noted that dead nettle can be invasive and considered as a weed by many gardeners.
3. Moss Rose (Portulaca)
This pretty little plant with needle-like foliage and tiny colorful flowers looks absolutely stunning. It is an annual or perennial (*in warm tropical and subtropical climates) ground cover that spreads densely. The blooms come in yellow, pink, red, white, orange and many more colors. Moss rose is very tolerant of poor conditions and dry soil.
4. Helianthemum
Also called ‘Sun Rose’ or ‘Rock Rose’, this subshrub comes from the family Cistaceae and barely grows up to 1 feet tall. Providing a well-drained soil and full sun (part shade in warmer climates) it blooms happily. The showy flowers of this genus come in shades of orange, pink, yellow, scarlet, and white. There are some varieties available that bloom for a long time from spring to fall (autumn). Grows in USDA Zones 5-9, this plant usually dies back in the colder regions when the winter perks up, whereas in warmer zones it remains evergreen.
5. Lilyturf (Liriope)
Lilyturf is neither a grass nor a lily. This showy and tough groundcover has lush and deep green, grass-like foliage ordered in slightly upright tufts. Spikes of violet or lavender color flowers appear from late summer until the fall.
Lilyturf (USDA Zones 6-10) requires full sun in colder regions but in warm subtropical or tropical climate, you can grow it in dappled shade. It can be grown between tall shrubs and underneath the canopy of trees, also use it for edging walkways or as and a low border accent. Liriope ‘Muscari’ and Liriope ‘Spicata’ are two most popular varieties.
6. Sweet Woodruff
Sweet woodruff is an excellent ground cover if you want to add fragrance to your garden. Grows best in part shade to full shade and on well-drained soil, this plant can grow up to a height of only 8-10 inches (When in bloom). It starts to bloom prolifically from mid-spring, sweet woodruff leaves also release fragrance when crushed.
7. Creeping Thyme
Thymus serpyllum is a low-growing aromatic flowering herb that is perennial and hardy in USDA Zones 4-9. Just like other thyme varieties it is edible too. This tiny plant barely grows up to 3 inches tall. It is deer resistant and an amazing alternative of grasses.
8. Brass Button
If you’re searching for a lawn substitute on which you can set foot without thinking much then consider growing brass button. It also forms yellow-golden flowers that appear from spring to summer. Brass buttons are hardy in USDA Zones 5-10 (but evergreen only in Zone 8-10), growing in temperates to subtropical climates both.
9. Creeping Phlox
This ground cover has pleasant flowers that appear in pastel hues. Growing this sturdy, low-maintenance plant is possible in USDA Zones 3-8, it is the plant that can be used in landscaping to hide the unsightly slope or other difficult areas as it rambles between rocks or cascades down. It can also be used as a bordering plant around the flowerbeds.
10. Sedum
The genus ‘Sedum’ has a diverse group of ornamental succulent plants, you can grow low growing sedums as a ground cover in full sun and well-drained soil. Yellow flowers appear in summer. The best thing about sedums is there are about 400 species of them around the world that can be grown diversely in every climate.
11. Campanula Portenschlagiana
Campanula portenschlagiana or ‘Dalmatian Bellflower’ is a beautiful annual or perennial plant that forms a mat of small rounded leaves. The flowers are star-shaped, blue-purple in color that blooms from spring through summer. Relatively cold hardy but requires shelter when temperature dips below much. It grows in full sun and in the part shade too, on a fairly loose, well drained and alkaline soil.
12. Lily of the Valley
Lily of the Valley is one of the easiest and best flowering ground covers. Its fragrant little bell-shaped white flowers grow well in shade and have long blooming period. Growing lily of the valley plant is possible in cool temperate zones in USDA Zones 2-9.
13. Vinca minor
One of the most popular groundcovers, it is a hardy plant in both cold and warm climates under USDA Zones 4-10a that spreads quickly. It blooms prolifically, is easy to grow and tolerates poor soil and drought. Provide it full sun in the cold climate and part shade in warm climates.
14. Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’
This low growing beautiful perennial blooms from summer to fall. Good for country style or cottage style garden and also suitable for containers. With its spiky blue blooms, it looks good with bright green foliage. Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’ requires full sun and regular but moderate watering.
15. Firecracker (Russelia equisetiformis)
A warm climate plant that grows best in warm temperates, subtropics, and tropics (USDA Zones 8b-11). This drought tolerant plant is loved by nectar-feeding species of birds, and by butterflies. Fluffy, errant and wispy stems and foliage cascade down and camouflages the unsightly areas. It is suitable for slopes, borders, retaining walls and containers too.
16. Lamb’s Ear
One of the best flowering ground cover plants on our list due to its thick attractive silver-grey-green foliage that forms gentle and velvety rosettes, not only the foliage, its purple colored flowers that appear from late spring are appealing too. This excellent edging plant only grows up 12 inches tall in part sun to full sun under USDA Zones 4-9.
17. Society Garlic
Society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) is also known as ‘Pink agapanthus’. With its edible garlic-flavored purple flowers and clump forming grass like blue-grey foliage, this tough and low maintenance ground cover is a good option for those who live in warmer climates. Suitable for warm temperates, subtropics and tropics under USDA Zones 7-11.
18. Ajuga
Ajuga, which is also called ‘Bugleweed’ is a genus of perennial or annual flowering plants. It becomes an excellent ground cover, sometimes invasive. Many of its species are very popular, especially ‘Ajuga reptans’ that spread through its runners, having attractive foliage that forms a dense carpet-like mat and deep blue flower spikes. It is possible to grow ajuga in both cold and warm climates (USDA Zones, 3-10).
This old fashioned tough and aggressive perennial ground cover is a good choice for gardeners who want to grow low maintenance plants. The plant barely grows up to 1-1.5 feet tall and loves the sun. Blooms appear when the weather warms up in colors like pink, red or pale pink with interesting variegated foliage. You can also plant it in groups under the trees, the bigroot geranium is a drought tolerant plant and best grown in temperates under USDA Zones 4 to 8b.
2. Spotted Dead Nettle
Dead nettle (Lamium maculatum) is notable for both its variegated foliage and its dense clusters of flowers, which appear in a variety of colors, including white, pink and purple (depending on the cultivar). This low growing plant can be grown diversely in different climates (USDA Zones 3-10), providing it cool, moist soil and shade to part shade. However, it must be noted that dead nettle can be invasive and considered as a weed by many gardeners.
3. Moss Rose (Portulaca)
This pretty little plant with needle-like foliage and tiny colorful flowers looks absolutely stunning. It is an annual or perennial (*in warm tropical and subtropical climates) ground cover that spreads densely. The blooms come in yellow, pink, red, white, orange and many more colors. Moss rose is very tolerant of poor conditions and dry soil.
4. Helianthemum
Also called ‘Sun Rose’ or ‘Rock Rose’, this subshrub comes from the family Cistaceae and barely grows up to 1 feet tall. Providing a well-drained soil and full sun (part shade in warmer climates) it blooms happily. The showy flowers of this genus come in shades of orange, pink, yellow, scarlet, and white. There are some varieties available that bloom for a long time from spring to fall (autumn). Grows in USDA Zones 5-9, this plant usually dies back in the colder regions when the winter perks up, whereas in warmer zones it remains evergreen.
5. Lilyturf (Liriope)
Lilyturf is neither a grass nor a lily. This showy and tough groundcover has lush and deep green, grass-like foliage ordered in slightly upright tufts. Spikes of violet or lavender color flowers appear from late summer until the fall.
Lilyturf (USDA Zones 6-10) requires full sun in colder regions but in warm subtropical or tropical climate, you can grow it in dappled shade. It can be grown between tall shrubs and underneath the canopy of trees, also use it for edging walkways or as and a low border accent. Liriope ‘Muscari’ and Liriope ‘Spicata’ are two most popular varieties.
6. Sweet Woodruff
Sweet woodruff is an excellent ground cover if you want to add fragrance to your garden. Grows best in part shade to full shade and on well-drained soil, this plant can grow up to a height of only 8-10 inches (When in bloom). It starts to bloom prolifically from mid-spring, sweet woodruff leaves also release fragrance when crushed.
7. Creeping Thyme
Thymus serpyllum is a low-growing aromatic flowering herb that is perennial and hardy in USDA Zones 4-9. Just like other thyme varieties it is edible too. This tiny plant barely grows up to 3 inches tall. It is deer resistant and an amazing alternative of grasses.
8. Brass Button
If you’re searching for a lawn substitute on which you can set foot without thinking much then consider growing brass button. It also forms yellow-golden flowers that appear from spring to summer. Brass buttons are hardy in USDA Zones 5-10 (but evergreen only in Zone 8-10), growing in temperates to subtropical climates both.
9. Creeping Phlox
This ground cover has pleasant flowers that appear in pastel hues. Growing this sturdy, low-maintenance plant is possible in USDA Zones 3-8, it is the plant that can be used in landscaping to hide the unsightly slope or other difficult areas as it rambles between rocks or cascades down. It can also be used as a bordering plant around the flowerbeds.
10. Sedum
The genus ‘Sedum’ has a diverse group of ornamental succulent plants, you can grow low growing sedums as a ground cover in full sun and well-drained soil. Yellow flowers appear in summer. The best thing about sedums is there are about 400 species of them around the world that can be grown diversely in every climate.
11. Campanula Portenschlagiana
Campanula portenschlagiana or ‘Dalmatian Bellflower’ is a beautiful annual or perennial plant that forms a mat of small rounded leaves. The flowers are star-shaped, blue-purple in color that blooms from spring through summer. Relatively cold hardy but requires shelter when temperature dips below much. It grows in full sun and in the part shade too, on a fairly loose, well drained and alkaline soil.
12. Lily of the Valley
Lily of the Valley is one of the easiest and best flowering ground covers. Its fragrant little bell-shaped white flowers grow well in shade and have long blooming period. Growing lily of the valley plant is possible in cool temperate zones in USDA Zones 2-9.
13. Vinca minor
One of the most popular groundcovers, it is a hardy plant in both cold and warm climates under USDA Zones 4-10a that spreads quickly. It blooms prolifically, is easy to grow and tolerates poor soil and drought. Provide it full sun in the cold climate and part shade in warm climates.
14. Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’
This low growing beautiful perennial blooms from summer to fall. Good for country style or cottage style garden and also suitable for containers. With its spiky blue blooms, it looks good with bright green foliage. Veronica ‘Goodness Grows’ requires full sun and regular but moderate watering.
15. Firecracker (Russelia equisetiformis)
A warm climate plant that grows best in warm temperates, subtropics, and tropics (USDA Zones 8b-11). This drought tolerant plant is loved by nectar-feeding species of birds, and by butterflies. Fluffy, errant and wispy stems and foliage cascade down and camouflages the unsightly areas. It is suitable for slopes, borders, retaining walls and containers too.
16. Lamb’s Ear
One of the best flowering ground cover plants on our list due to its thick attractive silver-grey-green foliage that forms gentle and velvety rosettes, not only the foliage, its purple colored flowers that appear from late spring are appealing too. This excellent edging plant only grows up 12 inches tall in part sun to full sun under USDA Zones 4-9.
17. Society Garlic
Society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) is also known as ‘Pink agapanthus’. With its edible garlic-flavored purple flowers and clump forming grass like blue-grey foliage, this tough and low maintenance ground cover is a good option for those who live in warmer climates. Suitable for warm temperates, subtropics and tropics under USDA Zones 7-11.
18. Ajuga
Ajuga, which is also called ‘Bugleweed’ is a genus of perennial or annual flowering plants. It becomes an excellent ground cover, sometimes invasive. Many of its species are very popular, especially ‘Ajuga reptans’ that spread through its runners, having attractive foliage that forms a dense carpet-like mat and deep blue flower spikes. It is possible to grow ajuga in both cold and warm climates (USDA Zones, 3-10).
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文章
Micky
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow spelt in this article. Planting and Growing spelt is easier in temperate climates. It is more winter hardy than conventional wheat varieties and also tolerates poor conditions well.
USDA Zones— 5 – 8
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Triticum Spelta, Dinkel wheat, Hulled wheat, Spelt, Spelt wheat, Espelta, Blé des Gaulois, Epeautre, Dinkel Spelt, Spelz, Spelta
Spelt (Triticum Spelta) is a plant belongs to the grass family. This rustic looking subspecies of wheat is resistant to diseases. Though it is is not widely grown, but it is of great interest in organic farming.
It adapts well to cold climates and thrives in various soil types: sandy, wet, poor and non-draining. It is less demanding for nutrients and more competitive against weeds than wheat. Making it an interesting cereal crop for mountain areas.
How to Grow SpeltSowing
The seeds are sown in rows, optimum distance between rows is about 18 – 20 cm apart. The seeds are buried 3 cm deep and spaced about 5 to 8 cm. To avoid competition with weeds, it is important not to plant too early in the season.
Seed Sowing Density for Growing Spelt
The best time for sowing is identical to that of wheat. The seeding density is recommended about 200-300 seeds per sqm, corresponding to 150-180 kg of seed per hectare.
Varieties
Spelt exists in two varieties – Winter and Spring.
Requirements for Growing SpeltPosition
Spelt grows similar to wheat but it is more winter hardy. Growing spelt in full sun is required for productivity and healthy growth.
Soil
For optimum growth, spelt must be grown in soil that is good, ie. Humus, rich in nutrients, with a pH close to neutral. Prepare soil similar to wheat. This grain also grows in soil types that are low in nutrients, poorly drained or sandy.
Watering
Keep the soil moist after planting until the germination of seeds. Once sprouted, it doesn’t require too much watering. Water only in hot and dry days. More regularly, if you live in a warmer zone.
Weeding
Weed the soil before planting and remove competitive weeds time to time.
Fertilization
Fertilizer requirements are similar to winter wheat. Excess nitrogen can cause lodging in spelt.
Pests and Diseases
As spelt is a subspecies of wheat, most of the pests and diseases are similar. It is recommended to select the most resistant varieties that are tolerant to pests and diseases.
Harvest
USDA Zones— 5 – 8
Difficulty— Easy
Other Names— Triticum Spelta, Dinkel wheat, Hulled wheat, Spelt, Spelt wheat, Espelta, Blé des Gaulois, Epeautre, Dinkel Spelt, Spelz, Spelta
Spelt (Triticum Spelta) is a plant belongs to the grass family. This rustic looking subspecies of wheat is resistant to diseases. Though it is is not widely grown, but it is of great interest in organic farming.
It adapts well to cold climates and thrives in various soil types: sandy, wet, poor and non-draining. It is less demanding for nutrients and more competitive against weeds than wheat. Making it an interesting cereal crop for mountain areas.
How to Grow SpeltSowing
The seeds are sown in rows, optimum distance between rows is about 18 – 20 cm apart. The seeds are buried 3 cm deep and spaced about 5 to 8 cm. To avoid competition with weeds, it is important not to plant too early in the season.
Seed Sowing Density for Growing Spelt
The best time for sowing is identical to that of wheat. The seeding density is recommended about 200-300 seeds per sqm, corresponding to 150-180 kg of seed per hectare.
Varieties
Spelt exists in two varieties – Winter and Spring.
Requirements for Growing SpeltPosition
Spelt grows similar to wheat but it is more winter hardy. Growing spelt in full sun is required for productivity and healthy growth.
Soil
For optimum growth, spelt must be grown in soil that is good, ie. Humus, rich in nutrients, with a pH close to neutral. Prepare soil similar to wheat. This grain also grows in soil types that are low in nutrients, poorly drained or sandy.
Watering
Keep the soil moist after planting until the germination of seeds. Once sprouted, it doesn’t require too much watering. Water only in hot and dry days. More regularly, if you live in a warmer zone.
Weeding
Weed the soil before planting and remove competitive weeds time to time.
Fertilization
Fertilizer requirements are similar to winter wheat. Excess nitrogen can cause lodging in spelt.
Pests and Diseases
As spelt is a subspecies of wheat, most of the pests and diseases are similar. It is recommended to select the most resistant varieties that are tolerant to pests and diseases.
Harvest
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文章
Micky
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow Ginko Biloba tree, growing ginkgo biloba tree is easy. This beautiful ornamental tree will soon become one of the most beautiful trees in your garden, once established.
USDA zones — 4-9
Other Names — Fossil Tree, Maidenhair Tree, Japanese Silver Apricot, Baiguo, Bai Guo Ye, Kew Tree, Yinhsing, The Tree of Forty Crowns
Difficulty — Easy
How to Grow Ginkgo Biloba Propagation
Ginkgo tree can be propagated from seeds or by cuttings.
Propagation from cuttings is better. To propagate it from cuttings, cut around 10 cm long cutting and plant it in a pot with potting soil lightened with perlite.
Cover it with plastic sheet and water regularly. After cutting has rooted, slowly acclimatize it without the sheet and transplant it into bigger pot or on the ground when it has outgrown the current pot.
Also Read: Ginkgo Biloba Tree Facts
Planting Ginkgo Biloba Tree
Female trees form fleshy fruits and their smell quickly becomes nauseating. Ether avoid planting them or plant them away from your home.
Plant ginkgo tree in the fall or spring. Prepare planting hole that is of the same depth and twice wide of the rootball. Bury the rootball in hole and water thoroughly. Protect young plants from drought and harsh sun.
Requirements for Growing Ginkgo Biloba TreePosition
It has good tolerance to the temperate climate and can withstand a semi-continental condition. It needs full sun or very light shade. It is also resistant to winds.
Soil
No specific soil type is required for growing ginkgo biloba tree. However, soil should be well drained but in a way that it must not dry out quickly, also note that the tree grows long taproot and requires deep soil.
It is best to plant it in light, rich soil. It supports mildly calcareous soil but prefers neutral, silty and slightly clayey soil. Add sand if needed to alleviate the heavy clay rich soil and compost to amend the poor substrate.
Watering
Water Ginkgo biloba tree regularly until it establishes in the first 3 years of growth. Keeping the soil moist as its growth is slower in dry soil but avoid damp and heavy soil.
Ginkgo Biloba Tree CareFertilizer
Generally, fertilizer is not required but to give a boost you can fertilize it in spring using a slow-release balanced fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K), according to the label instructions. A balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Annual application of compost or manure is also helpful for plant.
Mulching
Mulching is essential for growing ginkgo biloba tree. In summer to preserve moisture and in winter to protect the roots from the cold.
Pruning
Ginkgo biloba is a beautiful tree, it does not require additional pruning unless you want to control its shape or size.
Pests and Diseases
USDA zones — 4-9
Other Names — Fossil Tree, Maidenhair Tree, Japanese Silver Apricot, Baiguo, Bai Guo Ye, Kew Tree, Yinhsing, The Tree of Forty Crowns
Difficulty — Easy
How to Grow Ginkgo Biloba Propagation
Ginkgo tree can be propagated from seeds or by cuttings.
Propagation from cuttings is better. To propagate it from cuttings, cut around 10 cm long cutting and plant it in a pot with potting soil lightened with perlite.
Cover it with plastic sheet and water regularly. After cutting has rooted, slowly acclimatize it without the sheet and transplant it into bigger pot or on the ground when it has outgrown the current pot.
Also Read: Ginkgo Biloba Tree Facts
Planting Ginkgo Biloba Tree
Female trees form fleshy fruits and their smell quickly becomes nauseating. Ether avoid planting them or plant them away from your home.
Plant ginkgo tree in the fall or spring. Prepare planting hole that is of the same depth and twice wide of the rootball. Bury the rootball in hole and water thoroughly. Protect young plants from drought and harsh sun.
Requirements for Growing Ginkgo Biloba TreePosition
It has good tolerance to the temperate climate and can withstand a semi-continental condition. It needs full sun or very light shade. It is also resistant to winds.
Soil
No specific soil type is required for growing ginkgo biloba tree. However, soil should be well drained but in a way that it must not dry out quickly, also note that the tree grows long taproot and requires deep soil.
It is best to plant it in light, rich soil. It supports mildly calcareous soil but prefers neutral, silty and slightly clayey soil. Add sand if needed to alleviate the heavy clay rich soil and compost to amend the poor substrate.
Watering
Water Ginkgo biloba tree regularly until it establishes in the first 3 years of growth. Keeping the soil moist as its growth is slower in dry soil but avoid damp and heavy soil.
Ginkgo Biloba Tree CareFertilizer
Generally, fertilizer is not required but to give a boost you can fertilize it in spring using a slow-release balanced fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K), according to the label instructions. A balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer is suitable. Annual application of compost or manure is also helpful for plant.
Mulching
Mulching is essential for growing ginkgo biloba tree. In summer to preserve moisture and in winter to protect the roots from the cold.
Pruning
Ginkgo biloba is a beautiful tree, it does not require additional pruning unless you want to control its shape or size.
Pests and Diseases
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文章
Micky
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow pecan trees. Planting and growing pecan trees is easy but it requires lot of space as the tree grows tall and wide.
USDA Zones— 5 to 9
Difficulty— Easy
Scientific Name— Carya illinoinensis
Pecan Tree Information
Pecan trees are native to America and Mexico and grow mostly in Georgia and grows in Florida to Illinois, even to the west of Texas. Pecan trees are rather large, a mature pecan tree can grow up to 40 m tall with a spread of 12 – 20 m. If you’ve large yard you can grow pecan trees as they are not suitable for small backyards or garden. These trees are the source of many medium-sized pecans that are eaten fresh or used to create sweet desserts and candies, including pecan pie, caramel-pecan tarts, pecan pie, pecan pralines and many others.
Planting Pecan TreesBefore planting remove all the dead and entangled roots and prune off 1/2 part of the plant. This will encourage the vigorous growth and healthy roots.Space candy pecan no closer than 40 feet (if planting in a garden). For planting pecan trees in orchard, a suitable distance is 40 – 50 feet.Grow at least two pecan trees to ensure that most of flowers produce nuts. Although self-pollination in candy pecan is possible, but it is preferred that at least two or three trees are planted nearby for maximum nut production.For planting pecan tree, dig a hole at least 2 feet wide and 2 feet deep as pecan trees have extensive root system. Fill the hole with well-drained soil. Pecan trees can generally be grown easily and efficiently in a variety of soil types, except the soil which drains poorly.Requirements for Growing Pecan TreesLocation
Location should be sunny and open as pecan tree spreads a lot and grow taller.
Soil
Growing pecan trees is possible in variety of soil types, but for optimum growth soil should be well drained, deep and rich in organic matter with pH level slightly acidic to neutral.
Water
Pecan tree grows in slightly moist soil. Regular and deep watering is important for growing pecan trees. In first three years water deeply, once a week (avoid during rain), reduce watering in winter. During fruit production watering should be increased.
Pecan Tree CareFertilizer
In the spring fertilize it with compost or farm manure, also apply fertilizer that is rich in potassium and phosphorus around the tree, 5-10-15 is suitable. After first year of planting, apply balanced fertilizer in spring and in summer use zinc sulphate, which is essential for healthy growth and production of pecan trees.
Mulching
Mulching is important for pecan trees as they require evenly moist soil, mulching also reduces the competitive weeds.
Harvest
A grafted tree start to produce fruit in 3 to 4 years after planting. It is an alternate fruit bearing tree, it means it bears heavy fruit one year and light in the next year. Pecan trees bear fruits in fall and are ready to harvest when the husk loose its green color and start to split.
Pecan Tree Diseases and Pests
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文章
Micky
2017年05月22日
Care and growing castor beans is simple and easy. Learn how to grow castor oil plant in this article.
Castor, botanically known as Ricinus communis, is a herbaceous perennial plant. It can be grown as an annual or perennial, depending on the weather.
USDA Zones — 9 – 11
Propagation Method — Seeds, cuttings
Difficulty — Easy
Soil Type — Neutral
Other names — Castor oil plant, wonder tree, arandi, kege, amanakku, chittamankku, ricin, castorbean, erand, eranda, gandharva hasta, graine de ricin, tangantangan Oil Plant
Native to Eastern Africa and India, the castor plant is world’s most poisonous plant. Still it is grown for various medicinal purposes and as an ornamental plant. It has large attractive foliage, star-shaped thorns and red seed capsules. Planting a castor plant is a great way to add some low-cost tropical touch to your home landscape but you should be aware if you’ve children or pets.
You can grow this plant as an annual in the Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zones plant 2 – 9 and as perennial in USDA Zone 9b and above.
The plant grows rapidly, achieving height of six feet or more in just three months and reaches a maximum height of up to 12 m and is a very invasive plant in places where it is native of
Conditions for Growing Castor Beans
Castor plant grows quickly and as it is native to tropics, it needs heat and warm temperature to grow, the optimal cultivation temperature is 77 – 86 F (25 – 30 ° C) with a good amount of light.
It is also possible to grow castor oil plant in coastal areas.
Propagation
Growing castor beans plant is possible by seeds. Soak castor seeds in a glass of water for 24 hours before planting. Use filtered or purified water instead of tap water.
Planting Castor Beans
Sow castor seeds 1 inches deep and space the seeds at least 3 feet away. Keep the soil moist and transplant them to bigger pot or in the garden when the two real leaves emerge.
In the garden, space castor plants 3 feet apart. Add some well-rotted compost in the planting hole.
For growing castor beans in a pot, choose a large container and use potting mix or make it yourself by mixing equal parts of soil, perlite, peat and compost.
Requirements for Growing Castor BeansSoil
The soil has to be rich in organic substance and must be well drained much as it does not tolerate water logging. Castor plant is quite adaptable to many types of soil.
Sun
Castor loves the sun but needs to be sheltered from the prevailing winds because of its height.
Watering
Castor plant prefers the soil to be always slightly moist. In winter, reduce watering and let the soil to dry out between watering spells.
Castor Oil Plant CareFertilizer
Fertilize the castor plant once a month with an all-purpose fertilizer. Spread a layer of an inch of aged manure or compost around the base of plant when the buds begin to emerge.
Pruning
Pruning is not necessary for castor plant.
Harvesting
Select the bean pods as they begin to dry on the plant. Either remove the castor plants from the garden with pods or leave them if growing as perennial. Wear garden gloves, long-sleeved shirt and long pants during harvesting castor beans and disposal of plants.
Pests and Diseases
Castor, botanically known as Ricinus communis, is a herbaceous perennial plant. It can be grown as an annual or perennial, depending on the weather.
USDA Zones — 9 – 11
Propagation Method — Seeds, cuttings
Difficulty — Easy
Soil Type — Neutral
Other names — Castor oil plant, wonder tree, arandi, kege, amanakku, chittamankku, ricin, castorbean, erand, eranda, gandharva hasta, graine de ricin, tangantangan Oil Plant
Native to Eastern Africa and India, the castor plant is world’s most poisonous plant. Still it is grown for various medicinal purposes and as an ornamental plant. It has large attractive foliage, star-shaped thorns and red seed capsules. Planting a castor plant is a great way to add some low-cost tropical touch to your home landscape but you should be aware if you’ve children or pets.
You can grow this plant as an annual in the Department of Agriculture (USDA) hardiness zones plant 2 – 9 and as perennial in USDA Zone 9b and above.
The plant grows rapidly, achieving height of six feet or more in just three months and reaches a maximum height of up to 12 m and is a very invasive plant in places where it is native of
Conditions for Growing Castor Beans
Castor plant grows quickly and as it is native to tropics, it needs heat and warm temperature to grow, the optimal cultivation temperature is 77 – 86 F (25 – 30 ° C) with a good amount of light.
It is also possible to grow castor oil plant in coastal areas.
Propagation
Growing castor beans plant is possible by seeds. Soak castor seeds in a glass of water for 24 hours before planting. Use filtered or purified water instead of tap water.
Planting Castor Beans
Sow castor seeds 1 inches deep and space the seeds at least 3 feet away. Keep the soil moist and transplant them to bigger pot or in the garden when the two real leaves emerge.
In the garden, space castor plants 3 feet apart. Add some well-rotted compost in the planting hole.
For growing castor beans in a pot, choose a large container and use potting mix or make it yourself by mixing equal parts of soil, perlite, peat and compost.
Requirements for Growing Castor BeansSoil
The soil has to be rich in organic substance and must be well drained much as it does not tolerate water logging. Castor plant is quite adaptable to many types of soil.
Sun
Castor loves the sun but needs to be sheltered from the prevailing winds because of its height.
Watering
Castor plant prefers the soil to be always slightly moist. In winter, reduce watering and let the soil to dry out between watering spells.
Castor Oil Plant CareFertilizer
Fertilize the castor plant once a month with an all-purpose fertilizer. Spread a layer of an inch of aged manure or compost around the base of plant when the buds begin to emerge.
Pruning
Pruning is not necessary for castor plant.
Harvesting
Select the bean pods as they begin to dry on the plant. Either remove the castor plants from the garden with pods or leave them if growing as perennial. Wear garden gloves, long-sleeved shirt and long pants during harvesting castor beans and disposal of plants.
Pests and Diseases
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文章
Andy
2017年05月22日
Learn how to grow lemongrass from seed in this short tutorial. Growing lemongrass from seed is easy and requires little to no care, once established.
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) grows wild in wet grasslands and open forests throughout Southeast Asia, where it is widely used as a culinary herb and medicine. Lemon grass grows up to a height of 1 – 5 meters and have mounding growth habit. Growing lemongrass from seeds is easy and requires little to no care, once established. However, the plants must be kept in warm and humid conditions in the first few weeks after germination.
How to Grow Lemongrass from SeedsFill a seed tray with a moistened mixture of equal parts compost, cocopeat or coconut fiber fine and abrasive. Smooth the surface and compress it 1/2 to 1 centimeter of space that remains between the ground and the top of the tray.Sow lemongrass seeds 1 inches apart and 1/4 inches deep. Squeeze the soil mixture over the tops of the seeds.Mist the lemon grass seeds with water from a spray bottle.
Spray on the soil surface until it feels moderately moist.Stretch plastic wrap over the seed tray, and seal the edges. Set the tray on a windowsill receiving good light.Remove the plastic wrap once a week to water the lemongrass seeds. Mist the surface of soil until the top 1/2 to 1 inch is damp.Look for germination in about 10 – 30 days. Remove the plastic wrap once the lemongrass seeds grow up to 1 inch in height.Tips for Growing Lemongrass from seedsMist lemongrass periodically as it develops to maintain adequate moisture and humidity around the plants.Lemongrass is hardy in USDA Zones 10 to 12 and can be grown anytime. But in cooler season, best time for growing lemongrass from seeds is when temperature start to stay around 70 F.Growing lemongrass from cuttings is easier than growing lemongrass from seeds.
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