文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Keeping houseplants is an easy, very effective way to make your home a more pleasant place. Houseplants purify the air, absorb harmful particles, and just make you feel better by being around. The same thing goes for keeping houseplants in children’s bedrooms, though the rules are a little bit stricter. Keep reading to learn more about the best varieties of child’s bedroom plants.
Choosing Houseplants for Kids’ Rooms
When selecting houseplants for kids’ rooms, it’s important to keep a few things in mind. Most importantly, remember that your child is going to be spending time alone and unsupervised with these plant, which means toxic plants are completely out. Ideally, your child won’t be eating his or her plants, but to err on the safe side, you want to be sure it isn’t a problem. Some other plants, like cacti, can be dangerous too. Older children should be able to enjoy cacti (and benefit from their low water requirements), but with young children the danger of those spines might be a lot more trouble than they’re worth. Good children’s bedroom plants are ones that have low light and water requirements. You want a plant that can handle some neglect. It’s also a good idea to opt for plants that have an interesting texture and can tolerate being handled. The more senses your child can engage with his/her plant, the more interesting it will seem.
Popular, Safe Plants for Children
Below are some plants considered safe for kids that can be placed in their rooms: Snake plant – Low light and water requirements with long, interesting leaves that come in a range of patterns. Spider plant – Low light and water requirements. These plants put out small hanging plantlets that are fun to look at and easily transplanted for an interesting project. African violet – Very low maintenance, these plants bloom reliably and have soft, fuzzy leaves that are fun to touch. Aloe vera – Low water needs. These plants are interesting to touch and can be soothing to irritated skin. Put them in a bright window.
Sensitive plant – An interactive plant that kids will love touching. Venus fly trap – Carnivorous plants are cool no matter how old you are. A little harder to care for, these are better for older children.
Choosing Houseplants for Kids’ Rooms
When selecting houseplants for kids’ rooms, it’s important to keep a few things in mind. Most importantly, remember that your child is going to be spending time alone and unsupervised with these plant, which means toxic plants are completely out. Ideally, your child won’t be eating his or her plants, but to err on the safe side, you want to be sure it isn’t a problem. Some other plants, like cacti, can be dangerous too. Older children should be able to enjoy cacti (and benefit from their low water requirements), but with young children the danger of those spines might be a lot more trouble than they’re worth. Good children’s bedroom plants are ones that have low light and water requirements. You want a plant that can handle some neglect. It’s also a good idea to opt for plants that have an interesting texture and can tolerate being handled. The more senses your child can engage with his/her plant, the more interesting it will seem.
Popular, Safe Plants for Children
Below are some plants considered safe for kids that can be placed in their rooms: Snake plant – Low light and water requirements with long, interesting leaves that come in a range of patterns. Spider plant – Low light and water requirements. These plants put out small hanging plantlets that are fun to look at and easily transplanted for an interesting project. African violet – Very low maintenance, these plants bloom reliably and have soft, fuzzy leaves that are fun to touch. Aloe vera – Low water needs. These plants are interesting to touch and can be soothing to irritated skin. Put them in a bright window.
Sensitive plant – An interactive plant that kids will love touching. Venus fly trap – Carnivorous plants are cool no matter how old you are. A little harder to care for, these are better for older children.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus trees are a popular houseplant that can be found in many homes, but the attractive and easy to care for ficus trees still have a frustrating habit of dropping leaves, seemingly without reason. This leaves many ficus owners asking, “Why is my ficus losing leaves?” The causes for dropping ficus leaves are many, but when you know what they are, this can help you pin down the reason your ficus tree leaves are falling off.
Reasons for Ficus Tree Dropping Leaves
First of all, realize that it is normal for a ficus tree to lose some leaves. A few leaves dropping of a ficus tree will not hurt it and they will regrow, but if your ficus is losing more than a few leaves, the following reasons could be why:
Change in environment – The most common cause for dropping ficus leaves is that its environment has changed. Often, you will see ficus leaves drop when the seasons change. The humidity and temperature in your house also changes at this time and this can cause ficus trees to lose leaves. If this is affecting your tree, the leaves on the ficus tree may be yellow in addition to falling off. To help with this, try to keep your ficus tree’s environment as stable as possible. Keep it away from drafty windows and doors, air conditioners and heaters. Use a humidifier in the winter, when the air gets dry. And, once you have placed your ficus tree in your home, do not move it.
Incorrect watering – Under watering or over watering both can cause a ficus tree to lose leaves. In an improperly watered ficus tree may have yellowing leaves and the ficus tree leaves may curl. Water the soil only when the very top of the soil is dry, but also make sure that your ficus tree’s pot has good drainage. If you accidentally let your ficus tree’s soil dry out completely, you may need to soak the tree’s container in the tub for an hour to properly rehydrate the soil. If you have overwatered, root rot may have set in and you will need to treat the ficus tree for that.
Too little light – Another reason for ficus tree leaves falling off is that the tree is getting too little light. Often, a ficus tree that is getting too little light will look sparse and spindly. New leaves may also appear pale or even white. In this case, you should move the ficus tree to a location where it will get more light. Pests – Ficus trees are susceptible to a few pests that can cause a ficus tree to drop leaves. Often, a sure sign of a pest problem will be that the leaves on the ficus tree will be sticky or have liquid dripping off them as well as falling off. If this is the problem, you will need to treat the plant with insecticide like neem oil.
Fungus – Ficus trees are also occasionally affected by fungus, which can make the tree drop its leaves. Often, a ficus tree with a fungus will have yellow or brown spots on the leaves. To correct treat this reason for ficus tree leaves falling off, use fungicide (like neem oil) on the tree.
Reasons for Ficus Tree Dropping Leaves
First of all, realize that it is normal for a ficus tree to lose some leaves. A few leaves dropping of a ficus tree will not hurt it and they will regrow, but if your ficus is losing more than a few leaves, the following reasons could be why:
Change in environment – The most common cause for dropping ficus leaves is that its environment has changed. Often, you will see ficus leaves drop when the seasons change. The humidity and temperature in your house also changes at this time and this can cause ficus trees to lose leaves. If this is affecting your tree, the leaves on the ficus tree may be yellow in addition to falling off. To help with this, try to keep your ficus tree’s environment as stable as possible. Keep it away from drafty windows and doors, air conditioners and heaters. Use a humidifier in the winter, when the air gets dry. And, once you have placed your ficus tree in your home, do not move it.
Incorrect watering – Under watering or over watering both can cause a ficus tree to lose leaves. In an improperly watered ficus tree may have yellowing leaves and the ficus tree leaves may curl. Water the soil only when the very top of the soil is dry, but also make sure that your ficus tree’s pot has good drainage. If you accidentally let your ficus tree’s soil dry out completely, you may need to soak the tree’s container in the tub for an hour to properly rehydrate the soil. If you have overwatered, root rot may have set in and you will need to treat the ficus tree for that.
Too little light – Another reason for ficus tree leaves falling off is that the tree is getting too little light. Often, a ficus tree that is getting too little light will look sparse and spindly. New leaves may also appear pale or even white. In this case, you should move the ficus tree to a location where it will get more light. Pests – Ficus trees are susceptible to a few pests that can cause a ficus tree to drop leaves. Often, a sure sign of a pest problem will be that the leaves on the ficus tree will be sticky or have liquid dripping off them as well as falling off. If this is the problem, you will need to treat the plant with insecticide like neem oil.
Fungus – Ficus trees are also occasionally affected by fungus, which can make the tree drop its leaves. Often, a ficus tree with a fungus will have yellow or brown spots on the leaves. To correct treat this reason for ficus tree leaves falling off, use fungicide (like neem oil) on the tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus are one of the most common and easy to grow houseplants. In fact, they are so easy to grow indoors that occasionally the plants outgrow their site. Ficus plants don’t like to be moved, so the best option is to prune the plant to keep it manageable. Let’s talk about how to prune a ficus tree and, more importantly for the plant’s health, when should ficus be pruned? Ficus are not winter hardy and are generally grown as houseplants in the United States and other parts of the world. They are native to tropical and subtropical regions and are considered part of this type of exterior landscaping in warm zones. Indoor plants have slow, steady growth but can become heavy on the ends and lose their arching shape. Rejuvenation pruning will make the plant more compact and enhance proper branch formation.
When Should Ficus Be Pruned?
Obviously, trimming ficus trees is necessary if the plant has grown into a byway or is touching the ceiling. Trimming to diminish size is a common reason for pruning any woody plant. Timing is also an issue. Ficus tree pruning needs to take place when the plant is no longer actively growing. Most plants are vegetatively active in spring and summer, with growth dying down in fall. By winter, the plant has gone into dormancy and is less susceptible to injury. Therefore, winter is the best time for trimming ficus trees. You can prune out dead material at any time during the year.
How to Prune a Ficus Tree
Use a clean sharp pair of bypass pruners and don a pair of gloves. Ficus have a latex sap that may be irritating to skin. First, look at the tree overall and decide what areas need to be minimized. If the tree is too tall, this is clearly where you start, but if you need to create a better silhouette, you will have to make a plan before you start cutting. There are some cutting rules for ficus tree pruning in order to create a better appearance and keep cuts from looking obvious. Once you have decided which vegetation needs to go, the first step is to remove any dead or broken branches. This will give you an even better idea of the remaining necessary cuts.
Ficus Pruning Tips
Cut just before a growth node so that new growth will sprout there and cover the stump. Another tip is to remove a branch back to another branch that is one of its size. This will prevent unsightly stubs and restore the size and appearance of the ficus. Cut at a slant away from the node or secondary branch. If you have a damaged ficus with lots of dead growth, prune away no more than one-third of the material. You can cut more off later as the plant recovers. The best time to try this sort of pruning is after the plant has started re-sprouting so you can ensure that you are not removing recovered material.
When Should Ficus Be Pruned?
Obviously, trimming ficus trees is necessary if the plant has grown into a byway or is touching the ceiling. Trimming to diminish size is a common reason for pruning any woody plant. Timing is also an issue. Ficus tree pruning needs to take place when the plant is no longer actively growing. Most plants are vegetatively active in spring and summer, with growth dying down in fall. By winter, the plant has gone into dormancy and is less susceptible to injury. Therefore, winter is the best time for trimming ficus trees. You can prune out dead material at any time during the year.
How to Prune a Ficus Tree
Use a clean sharp pair of bypass pruners and don a pair of gloves. Ficus have a latex sap that may be irritating to skin. First, look at the tree overall and decide what areas need to be minimized. If the tree is too tall, this is clearly where you start, but if you need to create a better silhouette, you will have to make a plan before you start cutting. There are some cutting rules for ficus tree pruning in order to create a better appearance and keep cuts from looking obvious. Once you have decided which vegetation needs to go, the first step is to remove any dead or broken branches. This will give you an even better idea of the remaining necessary cuts.
Ficus Pruning Tips
Cut just before a growth node so that new growth will sprout there and cover the stump. Another tip is to remove a branch back to another branch that is one of its size. This will prevent unsightly stubs and restore the size and appearance of the ficus. Cut at a slant away from the node or secondary branch. If you have a damaged ficus with lots of dead growth, prune away no more than one-third of the material. You can cut more off later as the plant recovers. The best time to try this sort of pruning is after the plant has started re-sprouting so you can ensure that you are not removing recovered material.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Despite their upscale reputation, orchids can be as easy to grow as more plebian plants. Among the varieties recommended for novices are the moth orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.), dancing ladies orchid (Oncidium spp. ), slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum spp.), and florist's orchid (Cattleya spp.). The first type is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 to 12 and the second in USDA zones 10 to 11, while the hardiness of the latter two varies according to species from USDA zones 10 to 12. Most orchids are grown as potted house plants or greenhouse plants.
Windows and Warmth
Moth and slipper orchids will burn if given too much sunlight. They should occupy an east- or west-facing windowsill where they receive only a few hours of early morning or late afternoon rays or bright, indirect light. Dancing ladies and florist's orchids require stronger illumination. Place them on a sunny south-facing windowsill with a sheer curtain between them and the glass. Orchids will also grow happily under two shop lights, hung side by side 6 to 12 inches above the plants' leaves and timed to run for 12 to 16 hours every day. Position the most light-loving plants under the center of the four fluorescent tubes and the others closer to the ends. Orchids prefer a 10-degree drop in night-time temperatures, which you can provide for part of the year by keeping them outdoors -- on a roofed porch or under the high shade of a tree -- during summer.
Soil and Sustenance
Because most of these orchids grow on trees in their native habitats, they should be potted in orchid bark rather than soil. The exception is the semi-terrestrial slipper orchid, which needs a constantly damp medium, so grow it in an orchid mix which combines both compost and bark. For plants potted solely in bark, apply a high-nitrogen orchid plant food such as 30-10-10 once every two weeks during spring and summer, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the plant food crystals with 1 gallon of water. For those whose mix contains soil, opt for a balanced 20-20-20 plant food every two weeks, using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. In the fall, switch to a 10-30-20 plant food for all types, at the 1/2 teaspoon per gallon rate, to encourage bud production. Reduce the feedings to once a month at the same rate during the winter.
H2O and Humidity
With the exception of the slipper types, whose soil should be kept lightly moist, the orchids should be allowed to almost dry out before you water them again. They usually won't need to be watered more than twice a week during the summer months, perhaps once a week during the winter. If you grow your orchids in cache pots -- outer pots which conceal the inner ones -- be sure to empty the excess water out of those pots or the plants' roots will rot. To help provide the high humidity orchids prefer, place trays of gravel beneath the pots, but always keep the water level in those trays below the surface of the gravel.
Pests and Pathogens
These orchids can suffer from aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips, which give the appearance respectively of green lice, brown bumps, mottled leaves with webbing, and white streaks on the flowers. Spray the plants thoroughly in the early morning with insecticidal soap, using about 1 1/4 tablespoons of the soap solution per quart of water. Repeat the treatment two days later for aphids or one week later for other insects. If kept too wet and/or cold, orchids can also suffer from black or brown blotches or rot on the foliage. Use pruning shears or a pruning knife to cut out the affected areas, dipping the blade or blades between cuts in a mix of 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part water, and dust the cut edges with an anti-fungal such as powdered cinnamon.
Windows and Warmth
Moth and slipper orchids will burn if given too much sunlight. They should occupy an east- or west-facing windowsill where they receive only a few hours of early morning or late afternoon rays or bright, indirect light. Dancing ladies and florist's orchids require stronger illumination. Place them on a sunny south-facing windowsill with a sheer curtain between them and the glass. Orchids will also grow happily under two shop lights, hung side by side 6 to 12 inches above the plants' leaves and timed to run for 12 to 16 hours every day. Position the most light-loving plants under the center of the four fluorescent tubes and the others closer to the ends. Orchids prefer a 10-degree drop in night-time temperatures, which you can provide for part of the year by keeping them outdoors -- on a roofed porch or under the high shade of a tree -- during summer.
Soil and Sustenance
Because most of these orchids grow on trees in their native habitats, they should be potted in orchid bark rather than soil. The exception is the semi-terrestrial slipper orchid, which needs a constantly damp medium, so grow it in an orchid mix which combines both compost and bark. For plants potted solely in bark, apply a high-nitrogen orchid plant food such as 30-10-10 once every two weeks during spring and summer, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the plant food crystals with 1 gallon of water. For those whose mix contains soil, opt for a balanced 20-20-20 plant food every two weeks, using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. In the fall, switch to a 10-30-20 plant food for all types, at the 1/2 teaspoon per gallon rate, to encourage bud production. Reduce the feedings to once a month at the same rate during the winter.
H2O and Humidity
With the exception of the slipper types, whose soil should be kept lightly moist, the orchids should be allowed to almost dry out before you water them again. They usually won't need to be watered more than twice a week during the summer months, perhaps once a week during the winter. If you grow your orchids in cache pots -- outer pots which conceal the inner ones -- be sure to empty the excess water out of those pots or the plants' roots will rot. To help provide the high humidity orchids prefer, place trays of gravel beneath the pots, but always keep the water level in those trays below the surface of the gravel.
Pests and Pathogens
These orchids can suffer from aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips, which give the appearance respectively of green lice, brown bumps, mottled leaves with webbing, and white streaks on the flowers. Spray the plants thoroughly in the early morning with insecticidal soap, using about 1 1/4 tablespoons of the soap solution per quart of water. Repeat the treatment two days later for aphids or one week later for other insects. If kept too wet and/or cold, orchids can also suffer from black or brown blotches or rot on the foliage. Use pruning shears or a pruning knife to cut out the affected areas, dipping the blade or blades between cuts in a mix of 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part water, and dust the cut edges with an anti-fungal such as powdered cinnamon.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids have an undeserved reputation for being difficult to grow and easy to kill, which, unfortunately, causes many people to shy away from growing them in their homes. In reality, you can grow many popular orchid species, such as Cattleya, Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium, at home with simple, common-sense care. Overwatering is a common concern when growing orchids; the ice cube watering method is a simple trick that you can use to avoid over-irrigating your new houseplant.
Sunlight
Orchids require just the right amount of sunlight in order to grow successfully. If provided too little sunlight, the plant will fail to blossom; if provided too much sunlight, the blossoms will fade and the foliage will burn. The best way to expose your orchid to the sunlight it needs is to place it within 4 feet of a sunny south-facing window where it can receive filtered light for at least four hours each day.
Water
If it's your first time growing an orchid, knowing just how much water to give your new houseplant may seem a bit tricky. Fortunately, using the ice cube watering method takes all the guesswork out of irrigating your orchid. Simply arrange three standard-size ice cubes on the surface of the potting mix around the plant; avoid letting the ice touch the orchid directly. As the ice cubes melt, they will slowly and evenly moisten the potting mix. Water your orchid once a week using this method.
Fertilize
When grown in their native climates, orchids use their thick, fleshy roots to draw nutrients from the air around them. When you grow them indoors as houseplants, you must provide nutrients for your orchids by following a regular fertilization schedule. Feed the orchid with weekly applications of a specially formulated orchid fertilizer from early spring through summer. Cease fertilization during the fall and winter months; the plant is not actively growing and doesn't need the steady stream of supplemental nutrients.
Re-pot
Occasional re-potting is essential to maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. The University of Tennessee recommends re-potting indoor orchids every one to three years to replace the potting mix and to trim out any problematic roots. Gently remove the orchid from its planting container and rinse its roots under warm running water. Feel the roots with your fingertips; healthy roots will feel stiff and turgid. Use a sharpened and sterilized gardening knife to cut out any roots that are brown or mushy. Repot the orchid in a well-draining potting mix composed of equal parts peat moss, redwood bark, charcoal and volcanic rock.
Sunlight
Orchids require just the right amount of sunlight in order to grow successfully. If provided too little sunlight, the plant will fail to blossom; if provided too much sunlight, the blossoms will fade and the foliage will burn. The best way to expose your orchid to the sunlight it needs is to place it within 4 feet of a sunny south-facing window where it can receive filtered light for at least four hours each day.
Water
If it's your first time growing an orchid, knowing just how much water to give your new houseplant may seem a bit tricky. Fortunately, using the ice cube watering method takes all the guesswork out of irrigating your orchid. Simply arrange three standard-size ice cubes on the surface of the potting mix around the plant; avoid letting the ice touch the orchid directly. As the ice cubes melt, they will slowly and evenly moisten the potting mix. Water your orchid once a week using this method.
Fertilize
When grown in their native climates, orchids use their thick, fleshy roots to draw nutrients from the air around them. When you grow them indoors as houseplants, you must provide nutrients for your orchids by following a regular fertilization schedule. Feed the orchid with weekly applications of a specially formulated orchid fertilizer from early spring through summer. Cease fertilization during the fall and winter months; the plant is not actively growing and doesn't need the steady stream of supplemental nutrients.
Re-pot
Occasional re-potting is essential to maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. The University of Tennessee recommends re-potting indoor orchids every one to three years to replace the potting mix and to trim out any problematic roots. Gently remove the orchid from its planting container and rinse its roots under warm running water. Feel the roots with your fingertips; healthy roots will feel stiff and turgid. Use a sharpened and sterilized gardening knife to cut out any roots that are brown or mushy. Repot the orchid in a well-draining potting mix composed of equal parts peat moss, redwood bark, charcoal and volcanic rock.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Exotic orchids are fascinating to watch and make a fulfilling hobby for the avid collector; but, you don't have to be a collector to enjoy an orchid plant. Orchids are easy to grow, if you know the ins and outs of how to care for them. Repotting an orchid when it's outgrown it's original pot, or planting a cut orchid stem requires a little knowledge of how orchids grow.
Step 1
Choose a mature orchid plant that needs transplanting or dividing. Make sure the plant has completed blooming and is producing new growth before dividing or transplanting cuttings.
Step 2
Remove unhealthy roots from the plant. It is normal for orchid roots to grow outside the pot. Unhealthy roots are those that have developed root rot and are soft and mushy to the touch.
Step 3
Gather your supplies before starting to transplant. Sterilize all tools with either alcohol, a hot flame or a dusting of sulfur. Orchids are prone to infection and this protects the cuttings.
Step 4
Water the plant before repotting to make removal from the pot easier.
Step 5
Tip the plant on its side and remove it from the pot. Tap the bottom of the pot to encourage stubborn plants stuck in the pot.
Step 6
Discard old planting medium by gently removing it from around the roots with your fingers being careful not to break healthy roots.
Step 7
Trim away any dead leaves, wilted blossoms, old growth and rotten roots. Healthy roots should be white or tan. If they are black, hollow, mushy or look like wires, they should be discarded.
Step 8
Divide the plant making sure each section of cut stem has at least three healthy growths with leaves, and some healthy roots attached.
Step 9
Rinse the roots in water to make them more pliable for replanting.
Step 10
Dust all cut ends with sulfur to help prevent infection and encourage healthy new growth.
Step 11
Add the styrofoam peanuts and some new plant medium to the pot and place the plant firmly into the planting medium. Wrap the roots in sphagnum moss, made slightly damp and gently bend the healthy roots so they fit into the new pot.
Step 12
Label the newly planted cutting so you remember which plant is which if you are transplanting more than one breed of orchid.
Step 1
Choose a mature orchid plant that needs transplanting or dividing. Make sure the plant has completed blooming and is producing new growth before dividing or transplanting cuttings.
Step 2
Remove unhealthy roots from the plant. It is normal for orchid roots to grow outside the pot. Unhealthy roots are those that have developed root rot and are soft and mushy to the touch.
Step 3
Gather your supplies before starting to transplant. Sterilize all tools with either alcohol, a hot flame or a dusting of sulfur. Orchids are prone to infection and this protects the cuttings.
Step 4
Water the plant before repotting to make removal from the pot easier.
Step 5
Tip the plant on its side and remove it from the pot. Tap the bottom of the pot to encourage stubborn plants stuck in the pot.
Step 6
Discard old planting medium by gently removing it from around the roots with your fingers being careful not to break healthy roots.
Step 7
Trim away any dead leaves, wilted blossoms, old growth and rotten roots. Healthy roots should be white or tan. If they are black, hollow, mushy or look like wires, they should be discarded.
Step 8
Divide the plant making sure each section of cut stem has at least three healthy growths with leaves, and some healthy roots attached.
Step 9
Rinse the roots in water to make them more pliable for replanting.
Step 10
Dust all cut ends with sulfur to help prevent infection and encourage healthy new growth.
Step 11
Add the styrofoam peanuts and some new plant medium to the pot and place the plant firmly into the planting medium. Wrap the roots in sphagnum moss, made slightly damp and gently bend the healthy roots so they fit into the new pot.
Step 12
Label the newly planted cutting so you remember which plant is which if you are transplanting more than one breed of orchid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Growing roses from cuttings is relatively simple. However, not all roses are appropriate for dividing. Some of the newer hybrid roses must be grafted by a professional. Antique or "old roses" are especially easy to propagate. Late summer and early fall are the ideal times to make cuttings, but almost any time of the year will work.
Step 1
Choose a strong cane that has four to five leaves. The cane should be disease-free and insect-free. The cutting needs to be 6 to 8 inches. Trim the top of the cutting at a 45-degree angle and at the bottom of the cutting trim another 45-degree angle just below a side branch, leaving a "heel" at the base. Place in water.
Step 2
Mix one part perlite or vermiculite and one part potting soil, and fill a peat pot or 6-inch plastic container.
Step 3
Remove the lower leaves and keep at least two at the top. With a gloved hand, press against each thorn and pop it off, careful not to damage the buds. Make a narrow, 1-inch wound on each side of the base of the cutting.
Step 4
Punch a hole in the center of the prepared pot. Dip the cutting in the rooting hormone, and insert it into the pot. Firm the soil and water with a fine spray. Label the cutting with the name of the rose and date.
Step 5
Cut two lengths of wire long enough to make an arch over the pot and form a frame for your "greenhouse." Insert the pot into the plastic bag and secure it with a tie.
Step 6
Place the pot in a warm, bright location, but avoid direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist. When new leaves appear, you will know that the cutting has grown roots. This process usually takes five to eight weeks.
Step 7
Transfer the rooted cutting to an 8-inch or larger pot filled with organic potting soil. Make sure all the roots are covered. Add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil. Keep the plant in cool shade for one to two weeks, then gradually expose it to direct sunlight for several hours a day. Make several slits in the plastic bag and expose the plant for a few days, allowing it to become slightly dryer before transplanting. Transplant to your garden in about six months.
Step 1
Choose a strong cane that has four to five leaves. The cane should be disease-free and insect-free. The cutting needs to be 6 to 8 inches. Trim the top of the cutting at a 45-degree angle and at the bottom of the cutting trim another 45-degree angle just below a side branch, leaving a "heel" at the base. Place in water.
Step 2
Mix one part perlite or vermiculite and one part potting soil, and fill a peat pot or 6-inch plastic container.
Step 3
Remove the lower leaves and keep at least two at the top. With a gloved hand, press against each thorn and pop it off, careful not to damage the buds. Make a narrow, 1-inch wound on each side of the base of the cutting.
Step 4
Punch a hole in the center of the prepared pot. Dip the cutting in the rooting hormone, and insert it into the pot. Firm the soil and water with a fine spray. Label the cutting with the name of the rose and date.
Step 5
Cut two lengths of wire long enough to make an arch over the pot and form a frame for your "greenhouse." Insert the pot into the plastic bag and secure it with a tie.
Step 6
Place the pot in a warm, bright location, but avoid direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist. When new leaves appear, you will know that the cutting has grown roots. This process usually takes five to eight weeks.
Step 7
Transfer the rooted cutting to an 8-inch or larger pot filled with organic potting soil. Make sure all the roots are covered. Add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil. Keep the plant in cool shade for one to two weeks, then gradually expose it to direct sunlight for several hours a day. Make several slits in the plastic bag and expose the plant for a few days, allowing it to become slightly dryer before transplanting. Transplant to your garden in about six months.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Growing roses from cuttings is an inexpensive and easy way to grow a new rose. It is also the best way to replicate a favorite or antique rose, as the new rose will be identical to the parent plant. Increase your chances of success by taking four or five cuttings, as not all cuttings will root successfully. Take rose cuttings any time of year from stems that have just finished blooming.
Step 1
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut a to 8-inch tip from a rose stem that has recently finished blooming. Remove the wilted bloom or hip and strip off all the leaves. Cut the bottom of the stem at an angle to remind you which end should be planted. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady place until you're ready to plant them.
Step 2
Fill a container with commercial potting soil that has been dampened ahead of time. Any container will work, as long as the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 3
Dip the angled end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone. Plant the stem in the potting mixture, with the bottom half of the stem buried in the soil. Several stem cuttings can be planted in the same container, as long as they aren't touching.
Step 4
Put a clear plastic bag over the container and secure the bag around the container with a rubber band. Place a bent wire clothes hanger or some small sticks in the bag to prevent the bag from dropping down on the cuttings.
Step 5
Place the container in bright sunlight away from hot, sunny windows. Check the potting soil daily. Although the plastic will keep the environment in the bag damp for up to several weeks, the potting soil should be misted immediately whenever it feels dry to the touch. The soil should be damp, but never dripping.
Step 6
Allow the cuttings to grow until the following spring. At that time, plant each cutting in a 5 to 6-inch pot and allow the cuttings to grow for a few more weeks, or plant them directly into the garden. The rose cuttings should be planted where they will be in sunlight for at least six to eight hours per day. Keep the soil damp.
Step 1
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut a to 8-inch tip from a rose stem that has recently finished blooming. Remove the wilted bloom or hip and strip off all the leaves. Cut the bottom of the stem at an angle to remind you which end should be planted. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady place until you're ready to plant them.
Step 2
Fill a container with commercial potting soil that has been dampened ahead of time. Any container will work, as long as the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 3
Dip the angled end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone. Plant the stem in the potting mixture, with the bottom half of the stem buried in the soil. Several stem cuttings can be planted in the same container, as long as they aren't touching.
Step 4
Put a clear plastic bag over the container and secure the bag around the container with a rubber band. Place a bent wire clothes hanger or some small sticks in the bag to prevent the bag from dropping down on the cuttings.
Step 5
Place the container in bright sunlight away from hot, sunny windows. Check the potting soil daily. Although the plastic will keep the environment in the bag damp for up to several weeks, the potting soil should be misted immediately whenever it feels dry to the touch. The soil should be damp, but never dripping.
Step 6
Allow the cuttings to grow until the following spring. At that time, plant each cutting in a 5 to 6-inch pot and allow the cuttings to grow for a few more weeks, or plant them directly into the garden. The rose cuttings should be planted where they will be in sunlight for at least six to eight hours per day. Keep the soil damp.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
You may already be growing a dracaena plant as part of your houseplant collection; in fact, you may have several of the easy-care houseplant dracaena. If so, you have probably learned that dracaena plant care is fairly simple. Colorful strap-like foliage appears on many dracaena houseplant varieties. Many cultivars are large, tree-like plants while others are smaller. The houseplant dracaena exhibits an upright form no matter the cultivar.
Growing a Dracaena Plant
Stems of the houseplant dracaena are called canes and can be pruned at any point to keep plants under control. Dracaena houseplant varieties D. fragrans and D. deremensis have cultivars that can reach from 6 to 10 feet, so height control by pruning canes of older plants is useful when growing a dracaena plant. New foliage will sprout just below the cut in a few weeks. Propagate the removed cane for another plant. Dracaena plant care involves keeping the soil of houseplant dracaena moist, but never soggy. Drooping or yellowing leaves indicates over-watering or poor drainage. Learning how to care for a dracaena includes finding well-draining soil in which to grow your houseplant dracaena. Appropriate fertilization is also a part of how to care for a dracaena. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Reduce fertilization to once a month during fall. When growing a dracaena plant, stop feeding during winter months, as the plant benefits from a period of dormancy.
When growing a dracaena plant, locate it in brightly filtered light, such as through a sheer curtain in front of a sunny window. Room temperatures of 60-70 F. (15-21 C.) are best during the day, with night temperatures about 10 degrees cooler. However, the dracaena is forgiving of temperatures, as long as they are not too cold. Now that you know the basics of dracaena plant care, why not grow one of the many dracaena houseplant varieties in your home today?
Growing a Dracaena Plant
Stems of the houseplant dracaena are called canes and can be pruned at any point to keep plants under control. Dracaena houseplant varieties D. fragrans and D. deremensis have cultivars that can reach from 6 to 10 feet, so height control by pruning canes of older plants is useful when growing a dracaena plant. New foliage will sprout just below the cut in a few weeks. Propagate the removed cane for another plant. Dracaena plant care involves keeping the soil of houseplant dracaena moist, but never soggy. Drooping or yellowing leaves indicates over-watering or poor drainage. Learning how to care for a dracaena includes finding well-draining soil in which to grow your houseplant dracaena. Appropriate fertilization is also a part of how to care for a dracaena. Feed every two weeks in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Reduce fertilization to once a month during fall. When growing a dracaena plant, stop feeding during winter months, as the plant benefits from a period of dormancy.
When growing a dracaena plant, locate it in brightly filtered light, such as through a sheer curtain in front of a sunny window. Room temperatures of 60-70 F. (15-21 C.) are best during the day, with night temperatures about 10 degrees cooler. However, the dracaena is forgiving of temperatures, as long as they are not too cold. Now that you know the basics of dracaena plant care, why not grow one of the many dracaena houseplant varieties in your home today?
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The joy of having "Knock Out" roses is that they are so easy to grow. The disease-, drought- and pest-resistant roses practically take care of themselves. They make attractive, low-maintenance hedges in the landscape. By rooting the cuttings from a "Knock Out" rose, you can have your own easy-to-grow roses.
Step 1
Take cuttings from the tip of the "Knock Out" rose, in the area where the hip is beginning to form. Cut a stem six to eight inches long, at a 45 degree angle, using a sharp knife. Do not allow cuttings to dry out.
Step 2
Select a location for the cuttings to root. A location on the east side of your house, which gets plenty of sunlight, but not direct light, is a good location for your "Knock Out" cuttings. Mix peat moss and composted pine bark, with the existing soil. Soil should be kept moist, but well drained.
Step 3
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the rose cutting, allowing them to remain on the upper half of the cutting. Dip half of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Take your pencil and make a small hole into the soil. Put that portion of the cutting, which has rooting hormone on it, into the hole.
Step 4
Place the cuttings eight inches apart. Firm the soil around the cuttings, by pressing the soil with your palms, to ensure good soil contact. Water the cuttings thoroughly. If necessary, protect the cuttings from the cold.
Step 5
Water the cuttings every other day, if it does not rain. In the spring the "Knock Out" roses will develop leaves and roots. Although they have roots, it is best to leave the young roses in place for one year or until they can be transplanted, without damage.
Step 6
Transplant the young roses to a location that has at least six hours of sun. Do this while the plants are dormant in late winter.
Step 1
Take cuttings from the tip of the "Knock Out" rose, in the area where the hip is beginning to form. Cut a stem six to eight inches long, at a 45 degree angle, using a sharp knife. Do not allow cuttings to dry out.
Step 2
Select a location for the cuttings to root. A location on the east side of your house, which gets plenty of sunlight, but not direct light, is a good location for your "Knock Out" cuttings. Mix peat moss and composted pine bark, with the existing soil. Soil should be kept moist, but well drained.
Step 3
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the rose cutting, allowing them to remain on the upper half of the cutting. Dip half of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Take your pencil and make a small hole into the soil. Put that portion of the cutting, which has rooting hormone on it, into the hole.
Step 4
Place the cuttings eight inches apart. Firm the soil around the cuttings, by pressing the soil with your palms, to ensure good soil contact. Water the cuttings thoroughly. If necessary, protect the cuttings from the cold.
Step 5
Water the cuttings every other day, if it does not rain. In the spring the "Knock Out" roses will develop leaves and roots. Although they have roots, it is best to leave the young roses in place for one year or until they can be transplanted, without damage.
Step 6
Transplant the young roses to a location that has at least six hours of sun. Do this while the plants are dormant in late winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knock Out Roses are favorites with gardeners for their easy maintenance and long blooming season. In Georgia, they are versatile enough to thrive in all areas of the state. One of the only tasks needed to keep Knock Out Roses looking great year after year is an annual pruning.
When to Prune
Prune Knock Out Roses in late February, recommends the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service. The last hard frost typically has occurred by this time, making pruning safe, according to the rose's developer, The Conard-Pyle Company.
How Much to Prune
Prune no more than one-third of the plant at one time, warns University of Georgia extension experts. Remove all damaged limbs or sections of the plant damaged by cold temperatures.
Touch-Up Pruning
Knock Out Roses eventually shed their wilted blooms, but some gardeners prefer to snip those away promptly at mid-season for aesthetic reasons. It's also acceptable to lightly shape the plants during the year, if desired.
When to Prune
Prune Knock Out Roses in late February, recommends the University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service. The last hard frost typically has occurred by this time, making pruning safe, according to the rose's developer, The Conard-Pyle Company.
How Much to Prune
Prune no more than one-third of the plant at one time, warns University of Georgia extension experts. Remove all damaged limbs or sections of the plant damaged by cold temperatures.
Touch-Up Pruning
Knock Out Roses eventually shed their wilted blooms, but some gardeners prefer to snip those away promptly at mid-season for aesthetic reasons. It's also acceptable to lightly shape the plants during the year, if desired.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Did you know that the same plant that grows coffee beans also makes a great houseplant? Considered to be among the easiest and hardiest of houseplants, coffee plant is great for both experienced or beginner gardeners. Not only is coffee plant care easy, but the plant itself is lovely and makes a wonderful addition to the home.
How to Grow Coffee Plant
Coffee plants prefer bright, but indirect, light. This means that they should be placed near a window but not directly in the window itself. They also cannot take temperatures below freezing and will not do well in temperatures that stay consistently below 65 F. (18 C.). Keep them away from drafts in the winter.
When growing coffee plants, the soil needs to stay moist, but not soaking wet. Also, make sure that both the soil and the pot your coffee plant is growing in has good drainage. The humidity around the plant will need to stay high as well. Setting your coffee plant on a water-filled pebble tray will help with humidity. Like many houseplants, a coffee plant will need less water in the winter than in the summer.
Your coffee plant care routine can also include light fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer once every to two three months in the spring and summer. Keep in mind that a happy coffee plant can grow up to 6 feet tall. Therefore, provide enough space for the plant or make pruning a regular part of caring for your coffee plant. If you choose to prune your coffee plant, the best time is early spring.
Many people wonder if they will actually be able to harvest coffee beans when growing coffee plants. If the coffee plant is grown in ideal conditions indoors, it will eventually flower when it matures, which can take three to five years. Even in the best of conditions, however, you can only expect a few flowers to form, but, if you hand pollinate them, they will produce the berries that contain coffee beans. You may not get enough to brew a whole pot of coffee, but you may get enough to give roasting a few coffee beans a fun try.
How to Grow Coffee Plant
Coffee plants prefer bright, but indirect, light. This means that they should be placed near a window but not directly in the window itself. They also cannot take temperatures below freezing and will not do well in temperatures that stay consistently below 65 F. (18 C.). Keep them away from drafts in the winter.
When growing coffee plants, the soil needs to stay moist, but not soaking wet. Also, make sure that both the soil and the pot your coffee plant is growing in has good drainage. The humidity around the plant will need to stay high as well. Setting your coffee plant on a water-filled pebble tray will help with humidity. Like many houseplants, a coffee plant will need less water in the winter than in the summer.
Your coffee plant care routine can also include light fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer once every to two three months in the spring and summer. Keep in mind that a happy coffee plant can grow up to 6 feet tall. Therefore, provide enough space for the plant or make pruning a regular part of caring for your coffee plant. If you choose to prune your coffee plant, the best time is early spring.
Many people wonder if they will actually be able to harvest coffee beans when growing coffee plants. If the coffee plant is grown in ideal conditions indoors, it will eventually flower when it matures, which can take three to five years. Even in the best of conditions, however, you can only expect a few flowers to form, but, if you hand pollinate them, they will produce the berries that contain coffee beans. You may not get enough to brew a whole pot of coffee, but you may get enough to give roasting a few coffee beans a fun try.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads can be found clinging to trees and cracks in cliffs in some regions. But even if you aren’t lucky enough to see them in their wild state, bromeliads are commonly grown as houseplants and easy to find at nurseries and garden centers. They usually come in bloom and the spectacular flower lasts a few weeks or up to a month. Do bromeliads only flower once? Yes. Getting bromeliads to bloom again isn’t possible, but the plant produces a next generation of bloomers called offsets that will.
Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?
Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won’t work because they only produce one flower in the plant’s lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant’s needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won’t flower again.
Getting Bromeliads to Bloom
Although the adult bromeliad won’t bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually. First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base. Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix. Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom. Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.
Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner
Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn’t possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner. Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers. Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom. Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.
Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?
Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won’t work because they only produce one flower in the plant’s lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant’s needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won’t flower again.
Getting Bromeliads to Bloom
Although the adult bromeliad won’t bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually. First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base. Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix. Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom. Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.
Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner
Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn’t possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner. Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers. Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom. Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliad plants provide an exotic touch to the home and bring a sense of the tropics and sun-kissed climates. Growing a bromeliad as a houseplant is easy and brings interesting texture and color to the interior garden. Learn how to care for a bromeliad plant and you will have a long lasting unique houseplant that is low maintenance.
Bromeliad Plants
The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads
These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant
Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.
Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup
Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
Bromeliad Plants
The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads
These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant
Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.
Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup
Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Scientifically known as the Rosa rugosa, the beach rose is a sturdy, easy-to-grow shrub that enjoyed by landscapers and home gardeners alike. Not only are beach roses cold-tolerant and disease resistant, they will also withstand conditions that would send most rose bushes into a full wilt. They thrive in poor soil, salt air, windy environments and full sun. However, while they don't require the attention other rose bushes demand, they do need periodic trimming to look their best. Pruning beach roses eliminates old, unattractive or damaged wood, while promoting the growth of new foliage and flowers.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
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