文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Herbs are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. They’re often easy to care for, they can be kept in a container, they smell amazing, and they’re always on hand for cooking. One especially popular herb is oregano. Golden oregano is a common and worthwhile variety. Keep reading to learn more about growing golden oregano herbs and caring for golden oregano plants.
Golden Oregano Information
Golden oregano plants (Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’) get their name from their yellow to golden foliage that is the brightest and truest yellow in full sun and cooler weather. In the summer, the yellow leaves are covered in delicate pink and purple flowers. Is golden oregano edible? It sure is! Golden oregano is very fragrant and has the classic oregano smell and taste that is in such demand in cooking.
Growing Golden Oregano Plants
Growing golden oregano herbs is especially good for container and small space gardening, since the plants tend to spread out less vigorously than other varieties of oregano. Caring for golden oregano is very easy. The plants need full sun, but they will grow in virtually any type of soil. They prefer moderate watering and can withstand drying. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and will stay evergreen in the warmer zones. While less prone to spread than other oregano varieties, they are still vigorous plants that can grow to 3 feet in height and spread to 12 feet in width.
Golden oregano plants can be trimmed at any time for cooking, but it’s useful to cut them back drastically in early summer to keep them low to the ground and contained. Dry and store your early summer clippings to have homegrown oregano on hand all year long.
Golden Oregano Information
Golden oregano plants (Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’) get their name from their yellow to golden foliage that is the brightest and truest yellow in full sun and cooler weather. In the summer, the yellow leaves are covered in delicate pink and purple flowers. Is golden oregano edible? It sure is! Golden oregano is very fragrant and has the classic oregano smell and taste that is in such demand in cooking.
Growing Golden Oregano Plants
Growing golden oregano herbs is especially good for container and small space gardening, since the plants tend to spread out less vigorously than other varieties of oregano. Caring for golden oregano is very easy. The plants need full sun, but they will grow in virtually any type of soil. They prefer moderate watering and can withstand drying. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and will stay evergreen in the warmer zones. While less prone to spread than other oregano varieties, they are still vigorous plants that can grow to 3 feet in height and spread to 12 feet in width.
Golden oregano plants can be trimmed at any time for cooking, but it’s useful to cut them back drastically in early summer to keep them low to the ground and contained. Dry and store your early summer clippings to have homegrown oregano on hand all year long.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is an easy-care herb that can be grown indoors or out in the garden. As it is native to hot, arid regions, the oregano plant is perfect for growing in areas prone to drought. This herb also makes an exceptional companion plant for garden vegetables, repelling insect pests that commonly affect beans and broccoli. Let’s look at how to grow oregano in your garden.
How to Grow Oregano Plant
Growing oregano is easy. Oregano can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or purchased container plants.
Seeds should be started indoors prior to your region’s last expected frost. There’s no need to cover oregano herb seeds with soil. Simply mist them with water and cover the seed tray or container with plastic. Place this in a sunny location such as a window to germinate. Oregano seeds usually germinate within about a week or so. Once the seedlings have reached approximately 6 inches tall, the plants can be thinned down to about a foot apart. Oregano plants can be set out or transplanted in the garden once the risk of frost has passed. Locate oregano in areas receiving full sun and in well-drained soil. Established plants do not require much attention. In fact, these drought-tolerant herbs need watering only during excessively dry periods. Oregano doesn’t need to be fertilized either, as these hardy plants can typically take care of themselves. For optimal flavor (if growing oregano for kitchen use) or more compact plant growth, flower buds can be pinched out as they begin to bloom.
Harvesting Oregano Herb
Oregano herb plants are commonly used for cooking. Plants can be harvested anytime once they have reached 4 to 6 inches tall. Harvesting oregano leaves as flower buds form will often yield the best flavor. Harvest oregano leaves in the morning hours once dew has dried. Oregano leaves can be stored whole, placed in freezer bags and frozen. They can also be dried in a dark, well-ventilated area and stored in airtight containers until ready to use.
Oregano plants should be cut back to the ground and covered with a layer of mulch for over wintering outdoors. Container grown plants can be brought inside for growing oregano indoors year round. Now that you know how to grow oregano, you can add this tasty herb to your herb garden and enjoy it!
How to Grow Oregano Plant
Growing oregano is easy. Oregano can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or purchased container plants.
Seeds should be started indoors prior to your region’s last expected frost. There’s no need to cover oregano herb seeds with soil. Simply mist them with water and cover the seed tray or container with plastic. Place this in a sunny location such as a window to germinate. Oregano seeds usually germinate within about a week or so. Once the seedlings have reached approximately 6 inches tall, the plants can be thinned down to about a foot apart. Oregano plants can be set out or transplanted in the garden once the risk of frost has passed. Locate oregano in areas receiving full sun and in well-drained soil. Established plants do not require much attention. In fact, these drought-tolerant herbs need watering only during excessively dry periods. Oregano doesn’t need to be fertilized either, as these hardy plants can typically take care of themselves. For optimal flavor (if growing oregano for kitchen use) or more compact plant growth, flower buds can be pinched out as they begin to bloom.
Harvesting Oregano Herb
Oregano herb plants are commonly used for cooking. Plants can be harvested anytime once they have reached 4 to 6 inches tall. Harvesting oregano leaves as flower buds form will often yield the best flavor. Harvest oregano leaves in the morning hours once dew has dried. Oregano leaves can be stored whole, placed in freezer bags and frozen. They can also be dried in a dark, well-ventilated area and stored in airtight containers until ready to use.
Oregano plants should be cut back to the ground and covered with a layer of mulch for over wintering outdoors. Container grown plants can be brought inside for growing oregano indoors year round. Now that you know how to grow oregano, you can add this tasty herb to your herb garden and enjoy it!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Can you ever have too many lavender plants? This article explains how to propagate lavender from cuttings. The project doesn’t require any special equipment, and it’s easy enough for a beginner. Read on to learn more.
Propagating Lavender Plants
You can start lavender from hardwood or softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are taken from the soft, pliable tips of new growth. Hardwood is thicker than softwood and resists bending. It may snap if you force it to bend.
The best type of cutting to use depends on the type of lavender and the time of year. Softwood cuttings are plentiful in spring, and you can gather more of them without destroying the parent plant. They root quickly but aren’t as reliable as hardwood cuttings. While softwood cuttings are only available in spring, you can take hardwood cuttings in spring or fall. Some types of lavender bloom freely, making it hard to get a blossom-free stem when the wood is soft. Blossoms drain the plant of energy, and it’s unlikely that a stem will have the resources to form good roots if it is trying to bloom. These free-blooming plants are best rooted from hardwood cuttings.
Taking Cuttings from Lavender
Regardless of the type of cutting, you should always cut healthy, straight, vigorous stems for rooting. Choose stems with good color and no buds. Use a sharp knife to take a hardwood or softwood cutting measuring 3 to 4 inches long. Cut hardwood stems just below a bump that indicates a leaf node. Remove all of the leaves from the lower 2 inches of the stem and then gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Set the cutting aside while you prepare the container. Fill a small pot with commercial starting medium or a homemade mix of half vermiculite or perlite and half peat moss, with a little bark added to facilitate drainage. Dip the stripped tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, if desired. Rooting hormone helps prevent the tip from rotting and encourages quick, strong root development, but lavender roots well without it. Stick the lower end of the cutting about 2 inches into the soil and firm the soil so that the cutting stands up straight. Cover with plastic to form a greenhouse-like environment for the cuttings.
Lavender Cuttings Care
Softwood cuttings from lavender root in two to four weeks, and hardwood cuttings take a little longer. Check to see if the stems have roots by giving them a gentle tug. If you feel resistance, the stem has roots holding it in place. Wait several days between tugs as you can damage tender, young roots by tugging on them too often. Remove the plastic bag when the cutting has roots. Set the new plant in a sunny location and water it when the soil is dry an inch or so below the surface. Feed the plant with one-quarter strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week. If you plan to keep the plant in a pot for more than two or three weeks, transplant it into a larger pot with regular potting soil that drains freely. Commercial potting soils have plenty of nutrients to maintain the plants without supplemental feedings. Propagation of lavender from cuttings is easy and more likely to be successful than growing the plants from seeds. With cuttings, you can rest assured that your new plants will be exactly like the parent plants.
Propagating Lavender Plants
You can start lavender from hardwood or softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are taken from the soft, pliable tips of new growth. Hardwood is thicker than softwood and resists bending. It may snap if you force it to bend.
The best type of cutting to use depends on the type of lavender and the time of year. Softwood cuttings are plentiful in spring, and you can gather more of them without destroying the parent plant. They root quickly but aren’t as reliable as hardwood cuttings. While softwood cuttings are only available in spring, you can take hardwood cuttings in spring or fall. Some types of lavender bloom freely, making it hard to get a blossom-free stem when the wood is soft. Blossoms drain the plant of energy, and it’s unlikely that a stem will have the resources to form good roots if it is trying to bloom. These free-blooming plants are best rooted from hardwood cuttings.
Taking Cuttings from Lavender
Regardless of the type of cutting, you should always cut healthy, straight, vigorous stems for rooting. Choose stems with good color and no buds. Use a sharp knife to take a hardwood or softwood cutting measuring 3 to 4 inches long. Cut hardwood stems just below a bump that indicates a leaf node. Remove all of the leaves from the lower 2 inches of the stem and then gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Set the cutting aside while you prepare the container. Fill a small pot with commercial starting medium or a homemade mix of half vermiculite or perlite and half peat moss, with a little bark added to facilitate drainage. Dip the stripped tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, if desired. Rooting hormone helps prevent the tip from rotting and encourages quick, strong root development, but lavender roots well without it. Stick the lower end of the cutting about 2 inches into the soil and firm the soil so that the cutting stands up straight. Cover with plastic to form a greenhouse-like environment for the cuttings.
Lavender Cuttings Care
Softwood cuttings from lavender root in two to four weeks, and hardwood cuttings take a little longer. Check to see if the stems have roots by giving them a gentle tug. If you feel resistance, the stem has roots holding it in place. Wait several days between tugs as you can damage tender, young roots by tugging on them too often. Remove the plastic bag when the cutting has roots. Set the new plant in a sunny location and water it when the soil is dry an inch or so below the surface. Feed the plant with one-quarter strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week. If you plan to keep the plant in a pot for more than two or three weeks, transplant it into a larger pot with regular potting soil that drains freely. Commercial potting soils have plenty of nutrients to maintain the plants without supplemental feedings. Propagation of lavender from cuttings is easy and more likely to be successful than growing the plants from seeds. With cuttings, you can rest assured that your new plants will be exactly like the parent plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender is a fantastic plant to have around – it looks good, it smells amazing, and it can be harvested for use in cooking and making sachets. It’s also extremely easy to care for, as long as you know how to do it. Keep reading to learn more about when and how to fertilize lavender plants.
Fertilizing Lavender Plants
Lavender is a tricky plant to grow, though its needs are actually very simple. But time and again gardeners find theirs dying on them. Why is this? More often than not, the plants have actually been cared for to death. Lavender needs very little water to survive, and it’s frequently drowned by well-intentioned gardeners who think they’re doing it a favor. And the very same thing goes for fertilizer.
How and When to Feed Lavender
Lavender plants really prefer nutrient poor soil. Fertilizing lavender too heavily may cause it to grow excess foliage and never flower (particular if the fertilizer for lavender is rich in nitrogen) or it may flat out kill it. This isn’t to say that lavender plant feeding is completely out of the question – it’s all just a matter of doing it right. The best (and only) time for fertilizing lavender is in the springtime at the start of the growing season. The easiest and best thing to do is to put down an inch of good compost around the plant. This should provide plenty of nutrients for the year to come.
Alternatively, you can feed your lavender with a small amount of slow release fertilizer. Once you’ve done this, leave it alone. Fertilizing lavender too much can hurt it. Don’t fertilize in the fall, either. This will make the plant produce tender new growth that will only get damaged or killed in the winter. With lavender plant feeding, a little really does go a long way.
Fertilizing Lavender Plants
Lavender is a tricky plant to grow, though its needs are actually very simple. But time and again gardeners find theirs dying on them. Why is this? More often than not, the plants have actually been cared for to death. Lavender needs very little water to survive, and it’s frequently drowned by well-intentioned gardeners who think they’re doing it a favor. And the very same thing goes for fertilizer.
How and When to Feed Lavender
Lavender plants really prefer nutrient poor soil. Fertilizing lavender too heavily may cause it to grow excess foliage and never flower (particular if the fertilizer for lavender is rich in nitrogen) or it may flat out kill it. This isn’t to say that lavender plant feeding is completely out of the question – it’s all just a matter of doing it right. The best (and only) time for fertilizing lavender is in the springtime at the start of the growing season. The easiest and best thing to do is to put down an inch of good compost around the plant. This should provide plenty of nutrients for the year to come.
Alternatively, you can feed your lavender with a small amount of slow release fertilizer. Once you’ve done this, leave it alone. Fertilizing lavender too much can hurt it. Don’t fertilize in the fall, either. This will make the plant produce tender new growth that will only get damaged or killed in the winter. With lavender plant feeding, a little really does go a long way.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Companion planting is an easy and very effective way to make your garden the best it can be. It draws on a few different principles, like pairing plants that repel insects with those that suffer from them, and matching water and fertilizer needs. Lavender does have some specific requirements that mean it can only be planted in certain parts of the garden, but it’s also very good at protecting other plants from pests. Keep reading to learn more about the best planting companions for lavender.
Lavender Plant Companions
Lavender is very particular in its growing requirements. It needs full sun, little water, and little to no fertilizer. It’s usually happiest if left alone. This means that if you place it next to a plant that prefers more attention, one of them is going to suffer.
Some good plants to grow with lavender which share similar needs are:
Echinacea
Aster
Sedum
Wild indigo
Baby’s breath
Drought tolerant roses
These companions for lavender perform well in full sun and dry, less-than-rich soil. Gazania, another good choice, is a beautiful flowering plant from South Africa that fares especially well in poor, dry soils. Like lavender, it will really suffer if you pay too much attention to it. On top of being good companions for lavender based on their growing habits, these plants all also produce flowers that pair strikingly with its purple blossoms.
Some planting companions for lavender benefit greatly from having it nearby. Lavender is a natural repellant of moths, slugs, and deer. Any plants that suffer from these pests will benefit from having a lavender plant nearby. Fruit trees, in particular, which can be hit very hard by moths, tend to do much better when surrounded by lavender bushes. The same can be said for cabbage and broccoli, which often fall prey to slugs.
Lavender Plant Companions
Lavender is very particular in its growing requirements. It needs full sun, little water, and little to no fertilizer. It’s usually happiest if left alone. This means that if you place it next to a plant that prefers more attention, one of them is going to suffer.
Some good plants to grow with lavender which share similar needs are:
Echinacea
Aster
Sedum
Wild indigo
Baby’s breath
Drought tolerant roses
These companions for lavender perform well in full sun and dry, less-than-rich soil. Gazania, another good choice, is a beautiful flowering plant from South Africa that fares especially well in poor, dry soils. Like lavender, it will really suffer if you pay too much attention to it. On top of being good companions for lavender based on their growing habits, these plants all also produce flowers that pair strikingly with its purple blossoms.
Some planting companions for lavender benefit greatly from having it nearby. Lavender is a natural repellant of moths, slugs, and deer. Any plants that suffer from these pests will benefit from having a lavender plant nearby. Fruit trees, in particular, which can be hit very hard by moths, tend to do much better when surrounded by lavender bushes. The same can be said for cabbage and broccoli, which often fall prey to slugs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a commonly grown herb plant popular for its fragrant aroma. This easy-care plant enjoys hot, dry conditions, making it suitable for use in a variety of landscape settings and an excellent candidate for areas prone to drought. Keep reading to learn more about lavender plant care.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
How to Grow Lavender in the Garden
As lavender seeds are slow to germinate, purchasing seedling plants is the most reliable way to grow this plant. Growing lavender plants is an easy endeavor provided you give them what they need. Although lavender can tolerate a variety of growing conditions, this plant thrives best under warm, sunny conditions in well-drained soil. In addition, an alkaline soil rich in organic matter can encourage higher plant oil production, enhancing the fragrance in lavender plants. As lavender is native to arid regions, the plant will not tolerate moist or overly wet conditions; therefore, it’s important to consider location when growing lavender plants. They should be located in areas with adequate drainage and spaced far enough apart to ensure good air circulation. This will help reduce the chance of developing root rot.
Lavender Plant Care
Once established, lavender plants require little care or maintenance. While they should be watered regularly early on, established plants need little water, as they are extremely drought tolerant. Regular pruning not only keeps lavender plants neat looking in appearance, but also helps to encourage new growth. Low-growing varieties can be cut back to the new growth while larger types can be pruned to about a third of their overall height. Generally, lavender plants take up to a year or more before they are ready for harvesting. However, once they are ready, it’s best to harvest the plants early in the day, picking flower spikes that haven’t fully opened yet. Bundle the plants up and hang upside down in a dry, dark area for about one to two weeks.
How to Grow Lavender Indoors
Growing lavender plants indoors is no different from out in the garden. However, when growing lavender inside, make sure that the plants receive plenty of light and warm temperatures. Water only when the plants are significantly dry and do not fertilize. We hope that after reading these growing tips, lavender will make it into your garden. Once you know how to grow lavender, you can enjoy these fragrant plants for years to come.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Horseradish is a plant that can grow anywhere once started. This trait makes it both an easy to grow herb and an unwanted invasive that leaves gardeners wondering how to eliminate horseradish plants. When it comes to trying to get rid of horseradish, most people have difficulty doing so because of its hardiness. Keep reading to learn more about how to kill horseradish plants or to simply control them.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Fresh horseradish is absolutely delicious and the good news is it’s easy to grow your own. Horseradish is said to have many health benefits and also contains oil called isothiocyanate that has antibacterial and antifungal qualities. This makes me think that companion plants for horseradish might get a huge benefit. Read on to find out about companion planting with horseradish and what grows well with horseradish.
Companion Planting with Horseradish
Companion planting is a method of planting two or more plants that have a symbiotic relationship; that is, they mutually benefit one another is some way. Most plants benefit from this practice and planting companions for horseradish is no exception. As mentioned, horseradish contains oil that helps to curb fungal and microbial movement. While it doesn’t prevent infection, it can curtail it which makes horseradish a boon to many other plants, but what are companions for horseradish?
What Grows Well with Horseradish?
Horseradish not only helps ward off diseases, but it makes an excellent insect repellent. For this reason, potatoes and horseradish grow very well together. Horseradish repels:
Potato bugs
Potato beetles
Aphids
Blister beetles
Whiteflies
Some caterpillars
If you decide to try this particular horseradish plant companion combo, be advised that horseradish spreads rapidly and is easily propagated from even the tiniest bit of root left in the ground. So plant it at the corners of the potato patch or, better yet, in pots near the patch.
Fruit trees and brambles also make good horseradish plant companions; plant horseradish at the base of small fruit trees or in amongst berries or grapes to get the benefits of its insect repellent qualities. The root is also said to deter birds and small rodents, like moles and field mice, from eating up all the fruit. The same cannot be said of squirrels, however, but (in my experience) nothing deters a determined squirrel. Sweet potatoes, strawberries, asparagus and rhubarb are all said to make wonderful horseradish plant companions. Again, in every instance, the companion plants seem to get all the benefits from the horseradish. That’s okay, plant it anyway. Horseradish has numerous health benefits for humans too. It is a cancer fighting cruciferous, high in vitamin C, can be used as a gastric stimulant or a topical pain reliever, and don’t forget its antibacterial and antibiotic qualities. A very useful plant, one that is easily grown, is companion plant friendly or can stand alone.
Companion Planting with Horseradish
Companion planting is a method of planting two or more plants that have a symbiotic relationship; that is, they mutually benefit one another is some way. Most plants benefit from this practice and planting companions for horseradish is no exception. As mentioned, horseradish contains oil that helps to curb fungal and microbial movement. While it doesn’t prevent infection, it can curtail it which makes horseradish a boon to many other plants, but what are companions for horseradish?
What Grows Well with Horseradish?
Horseradish not only helps ward off diseases, but it makes an excellent insect repellent. For this reason, potatoes and horseradish grow very well together. Horseradish repels:
Potato bugs
Potato beetles
Aphids
Blister beetles
Whiteflies
Some caterpillars
If you decide to try this particular horseradish plant companion combo, be advised that horseradish spreads rapidly and is easily propagated from even the tiniest bit of root left in the ground. So plant it at the corners of the potato patch or, better yet, in pots near the patch.
Fruit trees and brambles also make good horseradish plant companions; plant horseradish at the base of small fruit trees or in amongst berries or grapes to get the benefits of its insect repellent qualities. The root is also said to deter birds and small rodents, like moles and field mice, from eating up all the fruit. The same cannot be said of squirrels, however, but (in my experience) nothing deters a determined squirrel. Sweet potatoes, strawberries, asparagus and rhubarb are all said to make wonderful horseradish plant companions. Again, in every instance, the companion plants seem to get all the benefits from the horseradish. That’s okay, plant it anyway. Horseradish has numerous health benefits for humans too. It is a cancer fighting cruciferous, high in vitamin C, can be used as a gastric stimulant or a topical pain reliever, and don’t forget its antibacterial and antibiotic qualities. A very useful plant, one that is easily grown, is companion plant friendly or can stand alone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Only people who have grown horseradish in their garden know how truly pungent and delicious horseradish can be. Growing horseradish in your garden is easy. Just follow these tips on how to grow horseradish and you will be harvesting horseradish for many years to come.
Planting Horseradish
A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you.
As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant
Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish
There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
Planting Horseradish
A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you.
As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant
Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish
There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there’s no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
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1
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is an easy to grow plant that is used for its bulb and its greens. Garlic scapes are the first tender green shoots on garlic which will become bulbils. They are edible when young and add a delicate garlic flavor to salads, soups and sauces. You can use them just as you would use chives. Most gardeners wouldn’t encourage growing garlic scapes but when they appear, remove them and use them for early spring flavor.
What is a Garlic Scape?
Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes
There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor.
Should I Cut Garlic Scapes?
Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes
The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days.
Using Garlic Scapes
Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
What is a Garlic Scape?
Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes
There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor.
Should I Cut Garlic Scapes?
Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes
The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days.
Using Garlic Scapes
Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic packs a robust aroma and flavor that many of us can’t do without. The good news is that garlic is fairly easy to grow and for the most part, is pest resistant. In fact, garlic is often a part of co-planting or companion planting, wherein garlic is grown alongside other plants to their mutual benefit. That said, even garlic has its share of garlic plant pests. What are some common garlic pests and how can you control pests on garlic bulbs?
What are Common Garlic Pests?
Garlic has both natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. That’s why many gardeners plant it near certain crops. Garlic contains the compound allicin, which is released when the cloves are crushed or bitten. Possibly, this is garlic’s defense mechanism, but whatever the case, it serves to deter some pests like aphids near lettuce. Apparently, they don’t love garlic as much as I do; they view it as more like the repellent it is to Dracula.
Even so, the plant may get garlic bugs that worship the bulb. Many of these garlic plant pests also plague onions, which are closely related to garlic.
Mites – Bulb mites are one example of pests found on garlic bulbs and other alliums. Off white in color, shiny and globular, they are found huddled together under the plants’ roots. Bulb mites reduce harvest and generally stunt plant growth. They can live from one growing season to the next, so it is recommended that you rotate plantings by skipping the allium varieties in successive years. Leaf miners – Leaf miners (Liriomyza huidobrensis) are another pest found on garlic bulbs, first as eggs lain within the leaf tissue. The hatchlings are tiny, off-white larvae that then tunnel inside the leaves, leaving visible damage. Although the resulting leaf damage is primarily cosmetic, the presence of leaf miners may damage other leafy crops in the garden. Wheat curl mites – Severe infestations of wheat curl mite can cause twisted, stunted leaf growth but its major impact is upon the bulb. Wheat curl mites (Eriphyes tulipae) can cause cloves to dry out. The mites act as a vector for Yellow Streak virus as well. The mites are so tiny; they are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Treating the mites is possible by dipping the seed garlic in hot water prior to planting. Nematodes – A particularly insidious garlic bug is the nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which lives and reproduces inside garlic plants. These microscopic worm-like pests eat all parts of the stems, leaves and bulbs. It can live without water and survive for many years in the soil. Nematode nibbling can result in deformation, discoloration and tissue collapse of the bulb. The worst thing about garlic nematodes is that their population continues to expand exponentially for years with no visible signs of damage. What this means is that for years, healthy garlic plants will not be significantly affected but then all at once the astronomical nematode population will decimate the garlic crop. Thrips – Lastly, thrips are the garlic plant’s most common pest. They suck the sap from the plants, gradually slowing growth and bulb production. If the infestation is severe, entire commercial garlic fields can wilt and die. In additional to those above, garlic plants can, on occasion, be feasted on by snails.
Control of Garlic Insect Pests
Some of the above pests can be dealt with by applying commercially available pesticides. If you would rather use a more organic method, the first order of business is to practice crop rotation, not just for garlic, but for any alliums. Also, seek out guaranteed clean seed. Practice strict sanitation and only use disease-free planting material. Sticky traps can be laid to entrap thrip migrations. Garlic’s powerful aroma may also be a key player in garlic insect pest control. Garlic extract is used to treat some plants and for repelling pests such as slugs. Strangely, an application of garlic extract may be the key to thwarting nefarious insect armies and if your nose is up for it, certainly worth a try.
What are Common Garlic Pests?
Garlic has both natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. That’s why many gardeners plant it near certain crops. Garlic contains the compound allicin, which is released when the cloves are crushed or bitten. Possibly, this is garlic’s defense mechanism, but whatever the case, it serves to deter some pests like aphids near lettuce. Apparently, they don’t love garlic as much as I do; they view it as more like the repellent it is to Dracula.
Even so, the plant may get garlic bugs that worship the bulb. Many of these garlic plant pests also plague onions, which are closely related to garlic.
Mites – Bulb mites are one example of pests found on garlic bulbs and other alliums. Off white in color, shiny and globular, they are found huddled together under the plants’ roots. Bulb mites reduce harvest and generally stunt plant growth. They can live from one growing season to the next, so it is recommended that you rotate plantings by skipping the allium varieties in successive years. Leaf miners – Leaf miners (Liriomyza huidobrensis) are another pest found on garlic bulbs, first as eggs lain within the leaf tissue. The hatchlings are tiny, off-white larvae that then tunnel inside the leaves, leaving visible damage. Although the resulting leaf damage is primarily cosmetic, the presence of leaf miners may damage other leafy crops in the garden. Wheat curl mites – Severe infestations of wheat curl mite can cause twisted, stunted leaf growth but its major impact is upon the bulb. Wheat curl mites (Eriphyes tulipae) can cause cloves to dry out. The mites act as a vector for Yellow Streak virus as well. The mites are so tiny; they are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Treating the mites is possible by dipping the seed garlic in hot water prior to planting. Nematodes – A particularly insidious garlic bug is the nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which lives and reproduces inside garlic plants. These microscopic worm-like pests eat all parts of the stems, leaves and bulbs. It can live without water and survive for many years in the soil. Nematode nibbling can result in deformation, discoloration and tissue collapse of the bulb. The worst thing about garlic nematodes is that their population continues to expand exponentially for years with no visible signs of damage. What this means is that for years, healthy garlic plants will not be significantly affected but then all at once the astronomical nematode population will decimate the garlic crop. Thrips – Lastly, thrips are the garlic plant’s most common pest. They suck the sap from the plants, gradually slowing growth and bulb production. If the infestation is severe, entire commercial garlic fields can wilt and die. In additional to those above, garlic plants can, on occasion, be feasted on by snails.
Control of Garlic Insect Pests
Some of the above pests can be dealt with by applying commercially available pesticides. If you would rather use a more organic method, the first order of business is to practice crop rotation, not just for garlic, but for any alliums. Also, seek out guaranteed clean seed. Practice strict sanitation and only use disease-free planting material. Sticky traps can be laid to entrap thrip migrations. Garlic’s powerful aroma may also be a key player in garlic insect pest control. Garlic extract is used to treat some plants and for repelling pests such as slugs. Strangely, an application of garlic extract may be the key to thwarting nefarious insect armies and if your nose is up for it, certainly worth a try.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
What’s in a name? In the case of brain cactus, a fascinating plant, albeit with a very descriptive name. One of the many species of Mammillaria, Cristata is the form known as brain cactus. It is an easy to grow cactus which often produces lovely little blooms and makes a great houseplant or outdoor specimen in warmer climates. Read on for some Cristata information along with care and growing tips.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Plant enthusiasts are always on the look-out for an unusual and amazing specimen. Huernia zebrina, or Lifesaver plant, is one of the best in this category. Lifesaver cactus plants are easy to grow in small dish gardens or even bonsai containers. The biggest challenges with Huernia cactus care are overwatering, incorrect lighting and mealybugs. Let’s go through some guidelines on how to grow a Lifesaver cactus and, hopefully, get some of the blooms for which it is named.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulent plants are not only easy to care for but provide a wealth of intriguing shapes and stunning colors. What’s even better is the fact that these exotic showstoppers have the unique ability to grow in some of the most unlikely of places. And I bet you thought they were just desert plants. While these exotic plants are capable of storing water, which makes them ideal for growing in arid conditions, succulents also make wonderful houseplants, adding unique interest to any style.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
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