文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Who doesn’t love a spider plant? These charming little plants are easy to grow and produce “spiderettes” off the ends of their stems. These babies can be divided from the parent plant and grown as separate plants. Can you grow spider plants in water? Plants need certain nutrients to grow and thrive and can’t be sustained in water long term unless you are using a hydroponic solution. However, you can root the little plantlets and transfer them to soil once the root system is vigorous.
Can You Grow Spider Plants in Water?
Many houseplants are easy to grow in water for a period of time, such as Pothos and spider plants, Taking cuttings or offsets is an easy way to propagate a favorite plant. These cuttings root quickly in just a glass of water. Once rooting is established, the new plant needs nutrients for future development.
Plain old water is unlikely to sustain the cutting for very long. Key nutrients can be derived from fertilizer; however, a risk of root burn from built up salts is a potential result. Growing a spider plant in water is a first step to starting a new plant but not a sustainable system. Spider plants produce little tufted growths at the end of their stems. These can be taken off the main plant and allowed to grow roots as separate plants. The best way to propagate the plant is to cut the plantlet from the stolon with clean, sharp scissors. Use demineralized water or let your tap water sit for a day before placing the plantlet in the liquid. Fill a jar or glass with this non-chlorinated water and set the cutting into the container with the bulk of its leaves outside the liquid. Place the cutting in indirect light until it has developed roots. This is a fairly quick process. Frequent water changes are essential to good spider plant water cultivation.
Spider Plant Water Cultivation
No fertilizer will be necessary as the little plant develops roots. However, once a good network of roots have formed, the plant will have needs. You may choose to use a liquid fertilizer such as fish food or diluted houseplant food. Feed the cutting every month, but be careful to change the water every week to prevent salt build up. Leaving rooted spider plants in water can be capricious. Without support, the leaves may be submerged in the water, which can rot them. Additionally, the stems will be limp and may not produce more growth. A better option than growing a spider plant in water is to transplant the plantlet into a growing medium of soil. Leaving rooted spider plants in water limits their growth potential. If you are bound and determined to keep your plants suspended in water, use a pair of chopsticks or skewers to help keep the foliage from dangling in the liquid. The only part you want in the water is the root system.
Change the water frequently and avoid tap water. Rainwater is a good option to protect sensitive roots from overly acidic or mineralized solutions. Remove the rooted plants and place a thick layer of washed pebbles at the bottom of your container. This will give the roots something to hang onto after you reintroduce the plant to the glass. Continue to fertilize monthly, but flush the system weekly to prevent the water from going stagnant and building up salt. If you see any yellowing, remove the plant, rinse the root system and put the roots into good planting soil. Your plant will be happy you did and the resulting maintenance will be greatly reduced.
Can You Grow Spider Plants in Water?
Many houseplants are easy to grow in water for a period of time, such as Pothos and spider plants, Taking cuttings or offsets is an easy way to propagate a favorite plant. These cuttings root quickly in just a glass of water. Once rooting is established, the new plant needs nutrients for future development.
Plain old water is unlikely to sustain the cutting for very long. Key nutrients can be derived from fertilizer; however, a risk of root burn from built up salts is a potential result. Growing a spider plant in water is a first step to starting a new plant but not a sustainable system. Spider plants produce little tufted growths at the end of their stems. These can be taken off the main plant and allowed to grow roots as separate plants. The best way to propagate the plant is to cut the plantlet from the stolon with clean, sharp scissors. Use demineralized water or let your tap water sit for a day before placing the plantlet in the liquid. Fill a jar or glass with this non-chlorinated water and set the cutting into the container with the bulk of its leaves outside the liquid. Place the cutting in indirect light until it has developed roots. This is a fairly quick process. Frequent water changes are essential to good spider plant water cultivation.
Spider Plant Water Cultivation
No fertilizer will be necessary as the little plant develops roots. However, once a good network of roots have formed, the plant will have needs. You may choose to use a liquid fertilizer such as fish food or diluted houseplant food. Feed the cutting every month, but be careful to change the water every week to prevent salt build up. Leaving rooted spider plants in water can be capricious. Without support, the leaves may be submerged in the water, which can rot them. Additionally, the stems will be limp and may not produce more growth. A better option than growing a spider plant in water is to transplant the plantlet into a growing medium of soil. Leaving rooted spider plants in water limits their growth potential. If you are bound and determined to keep your plants suspended in water, use a pair of chopsticks or skewers to help keep the foliage from dangling in the liquid. The only part you want in the water is the root system.
Change the water frequently and avoid tap water. Rainwater is a good option to protect sensitive roots from overly acidic or mineralized solutions. Remove the rooted plants and place a thick layer of washed pebbles at the bottom of your container. This will give the roots something to hang onto after you reintroduce the plant to the glass. Continue to fertilize monthly, but flush the system weekly to prevent the water from going stagnant and building up salt. If you see any yellowing, remove the plant, rinse the root system and put the roots into good planting soil. Your plant will be happy you did and the resulting maintenance will be greatly reduced.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They have a very unique look, with small little plantlets dangling on the ends of long stalks like spiders. They’re also extremely forgiving and easy to take care of – they don’t require much at all in the way of special care. Sometimes, however, you may encounter spider plant problems. Wilting spider plants are not uncommon, though they’re usually easy to cure. Keep reading to learn more about what to do when your spider plant looks wilted.
Why a Spider Plant Looks Wilted
So if you’re asking. “Why is my spider plant wilting,” you’ll need to do a bit of troubleshooting. When spider plant leaves look droopy, it can mean one of several things.
Water – One obvious problem is improper watering. Spider plants need a good amount of watering during the summer – the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Overwatering can also cause problems, however, with wilting and yellowing plants. Don’t let the soil get soggy in the summer, and in the winter let it dry out between light waterings. Light – The wrong amount of light or heat can also result in wilting spider plants. Spider plants do best in bright but indirect sunlight, like in a south-facing window or a space outside that receives less than 6 hours of sunlight. Overheating, a problem that often comes with too much sun, can also cause wilting spider plants.
If your spider plant has been drooping in bright direct sunlight, give it a good soak in a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then move it to a shadier, cooler spot. Of course, spider plants do need some sunlight. If your plant is wilting in full shade or far from a window indoors, move it to a sunnier spot and see if it perks up. Fertilizer – If your spider plant leaves look droopy, it may also be a problem with soil quality. You should feed your spider plant with a balanced fertilizer every other week in the summer and less frequently in winter.
Repotting – If your spider plant looks wilted and you can see roots coming out of the drainage holes, your plant is outgrowing its pot. Transplant it to a bigger pot, and water and feed it well. Spider plants can be a little fussy about water and light requirements, but they’re also very durable. If you notice your plant wilting and act to fix it, it should bounce back with no problem.
Why a Spider Plant Looks Wilted
So if you’re asking. “Why is my spider plant wilting,” you’ll need to do a bit of troubleshooting. When spider plant leaves look droopy, it can mean one of several things.
Water – One obvious problem is improper watering. Spider plants need a good amount of watering during the summer – the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Overwatering can also cause problems, however, with wilting and yellowing plants. Don’t let the soil get soggy in the summer, and in the winter let it dry out between light waterings. Light – The wrong amount of light or heat can also result in wilting spider plants. Spider plants do best in bright but indirect sunlight, like in a south-facing window or a space outside that receives less than 6 hours of sunlight. Overheating, a problem that often comes with too much sun, can also cause wilting spider plants.
If your spider plant has been drooping in bright direct sunlight, give it a good soak in a bucket of water for 15 minutes, then move it to a shadier, cooler spot. Of course, spider plants do need some sunlight. If your plant is wilting in full shade or far from a window indoors, move it to a sunnier spot and see if it perks up. Fertilizer – If your spider plant leaves look droopy, it may also be a problem with soil quality. You should feed your spider plant with a balanced fertilizer every other week in the summer and less frequently in winter.
Repotting – If your spider plant looks wilted and you can see roots coming out of the drainage holes, your plant is outgrowing its pot. Transplant it to a bigger pot, and water and feed it well. Spider plants can be a little fussy about water and light requirements, but they’re also very durable. If you notice your plant wilting and act to fix it, it should bounce back with no problem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants are very popular and easy to grow houseplants. They’re known best for their spiderettes, little miniature versions of themselves that sprout from long stalks and hang down just like spiders on silk. The interesting spiderettes often overshadow the fact that spider plants bloom, producing delicate white flowers along these stalks. When pollinated, these flowers make seeds that can be harvested and grown into new plants. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a spider plant from seed.
Harvesting Spider Plant Seeds
Do spider plants have seeds? Yes. Your spider plant should bloom naturally, but it will need to be pollinated in order to produce seeds. You can do this yourself by gently brushing a cotton swab against one flower after the other, or you can simply put your plant outside to allow insects to pollinate it naturally. After the flowers have faded, you should see bumpy green seed pods appear in their place. Harvesting spider plant seeds is easy, and mostly involves waiting. Allow the seed pods to dry on the stalk. Once they’re dry, they should split open naturally and drop their seeds. You can place a piece of paper under the plant to collect the seeds when they fall, or you can break the dry pods off by hand and put them in a paper bag, where they should split open.
How to Grow a Spider Plant from Seed
When growing a spider plant from seed, you should plant the seeds right away, as they don’t store well. Sow the seeds about ½ inch deep in good potting mix and keep them warm and moist. Spider plant seed germination usually takes a couple of weeks, so be patient. Allow your seedlings to grow many true leaves before transplanting them – growing spider plants from seed produces delicate seedlings that don’t like to be moved too soon.
Harvesting Spider Plant Seeds
Do spider plants have seeds? Yes. Your spider plant should bloom naturally, but it will need to be pollinated in order to produce seeds. You can do this yourself by gently brushing a cotton swab against one flower after the other, or you can simply put your plant outside to allow insects to pollinate it naturally. After the flowers have faded, you should see bumpy green seed pods appear in their place. Harvesting spider plant seeds is easy, and mostly involves waiting. Allow the seed pods to dry on the stalk. Once they’re dry, they should split open naturally and drop their seeds. You can place a piece of paper under the plant to collect the seeds when they fall, or you can break the dry pods off by hand and put them in a paper bag, where they should split open.
How to Grow a Spider Plant from Seed
When growing a spider plant from seed, you should plant the seeds right away, as they don’t store well. Sow the seeds about ½ inch deep in good potting mix and keep them warm and moist. Spider plant seed germination usually takes a couple of weeks, so be patient. Allow your seedlings to grow many true leaves before transplanting them – growing spider plants from seed produces delicate seedlings that don’t like to be moved too soon.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are common indoor plants and can last generations. Their unfussy nature and lively “spiderettes” make an appealing and easy to grow houseplant. Spider plant problems are rare but are usually attributed to too much or too little moisture, excess fertilizer and occasionally insect pests can interfere with plant health. Treating plants with dark leaf tips starts with identifying the cause and then correcting any bad cultivation practices.
Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black
Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor.
Water stress
One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.
Chemical/fertilizer buildup
Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.
Diseases of spider plant
Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.
Spider Plant Leaves Turning Black
Spider plants are graceful foliage plants. They are from tropical and southern Africa and cannot tolerate freezing temperatures. In warm climates, they are sometimes grown outdoors but in most regions they are grown as houseplants. The plants thrive in almost any light, soil type and temperature provided there are no freezes. Therefore, when a spider plant has black tips, water may be the most influencing factor.
Water stress
One of the most common issues with spider plants is water stress. This can mean too much or too little moisture. Plants should not be standing in a saucer of water and they need high enough humidity to avoid leaf tip burn. Overwatering is a cause of spider plant leaves turning black or dark brown. The soil should dry out slightly between irrigations. And to add more fuel to the fire, spider plants should not be allowed to dry out completely. If there isn’t enough moisture, the foliage will start to discolor, first at the tips. Often, the cause is due to situating the plant by a furnace or because it needs to be repotted. Root bound plants cannot uptake moisture effectively but simply moving the plant to a larger container often increases moisture absorption.
Chemical/fertilizer buildup
Among the more common spider plant problems are necrotic leaf tips. The exact color of the discolored tip can be a clue to the issue. Reddish brown tips can indicate excess fluoride in your water, while tan to gray tips can mean the water is toxic with boron. If your municipality heavily treats water, treating plants with dark leaf tips may be as simple as using rainwater or filtered water to irrigate your plant. You can also use distilled water as an alternative. Flush the soil well with the new water to leach out the toxic substances and any excess fertilizer buildup. When a spider plant has black tips it is best to start with the water first and move on to other potential causes as this is an easy fix.
Diseases of spider plant
Disease is a big possibility of leaf tips turning black on spider plant. Bacterial leaf blight starts out as light lesions on the leaf tips which gradually turn brown. Bacterial leaf spot and tip burn occurs in hot, humid conditions and is characterized by yellowing in the leaf margin and browning edges. Increasing circulation, avoiding overhead watering and removing damaged foliage can help prevent the spread of these diseases. Plants also need superior care to withstand the stress of the disease and produce new healthy foliage. If the disease has progressed to the point it is affecting the stems, the plant is going to die and should be disposed of.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Schefflera is popular as a houseplant and is usually grown for its attractive foliage. Most people in temperate regions have never seen a schefflera blooming, and it would be easy to assume that the plant doesn’t produce flowers. Flowering schefflera plants may be unusual, but these plants do bloom once in a while, even when they’re grown indoors year round.
When Does Schefflera Bloom?
Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like?
Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
When Does Schefflera Bloom?
Schefflera plants, which are commonly known as umbrella trees, are tropical. In the wild, they grow in tropical rainforests or in various parts of Australia and China, depending on the species. They certainly produce flowers in their native habitats, but you may be wondering: does schefflera bloom in cooler regions?
Schefflera plants are less likely to flower in temperate regions, but they do produce flowers occasionally, especially in warmer locations like Florida and Southern California. In gardening zones 10 and 11, Schefflera actinophylla can be planted outdoors in a full sun location, and these conditions seem to give the plant the best chance to flower. The schefflera blooms are most likely to appear in summer. Flowering is not reliable outside the tropics, so this likely won’t happen every year. Schefflera arboricola has been known to bloom indoors. Giving the plant as much sunlight as possible may help encourage it to flower, and this species, too, is most likely to bloom in summer.
What Do Schefflera Flowers Look Like?
Depending on the species, schefflera blooms can be white, pink, or red. In Schefflera actinophylla, each inflorescence, or flower spike, is quite long and showy, with many small flowers emerging along its length. The inflorescences are grouped in clusters at the end of branches. These clusters have been described as looking like the tentacles of an upside-down octopus, which accounts for one of the plant’s common names, “octopus-tree.” Schefflera arboricola produces more compact flowers on small inflorescences that look like small white spikes. Its flower spikes also grow in clusters that have a surprising appearance, especially on a plant that is so well known for its foliage. When your schefflera plant flowers, it is definitely a special occasion. Be sure to take some photos before these schefflera blooms fade!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The schefflera houseplant is a popular plant and comes in many varieties. The most well known are the umbrella tree and the dwarf umbrella tree. One of the reasons the plant is popular is because schefflera plant care is so easy, but, while schefflera care is easy, the plant does need to be cared for. Keep reading to learn more about growing schefflera and keeping it healthy and lush.
Schefflera Plant Care Instructions
There are two very important parts to proper schefflera care. The first is correct sunlight and the second is proper watering.
Light – Schefflera plants are medium light plants, which means that they need bright but indirect light. A common complaint about schefflera plants is that they get leggy and floppy. This problem is caused by too little light. Making sure that you are growing schefflera in the right kind of light will help prevent leggy growth. On the other side, you do not want to place a schefflera houseplant in direct, bright light, as this will burn the leaves.
Water – When growing schefflera, be aware that watering correctly will help to keep your schefflera houseplant healthy. To water correctly, wait until the soil in the pot dries out and then thoroughly soak the soil when you water. Often, people will over water their schefflera plant and this will eventually kill it. Yellow leaves that fall off the plant is a sign that you may be watering too much.
Additional care of schefflera includes pruning and fertilization.
Pruning – Your schefflera may also need to be pruned occasionally, especially if it is not getting quite enough light. Pruning a schefflera is simple. Just cut off what you feel is overgrown or leggy back to a size or shape you like. Schefflera houseplants rebound quickly from pruning and will look even fuller and more lush shortly after pruning. Fertilizer – You do not need to fertilize your schefflera, but if you would like to, you can give it a half solution water soluble fertilizer once a year. Schefflera plants are poisonous to people and animals, if eaten. It is not often fatal but will cause a burning sensation, swelling, difficulty swallowing, and in severe cases, difficult breathing.
Schefflera Houseplant Pests and Diseases
Schefflera plants are not often bothered by pests or disease, but it can happen occasionally. Spider mites and mealybugs are the most common pests that affect schefflera plants. In light cases of infestation, washing the plant with water and soap will normally eliminate the pests. With heavier infestations, you many need to treat the plant with an insecticide like neem oil. Also, be aware that pests typically attack this plant if it is stressed. If your schefflera has pests, this is likely a sign it is either getting too little light or too much water. The most common disease that affects schefflera is root rot. This disease is brought on by overwatering and poor drainage in the soil.
Schefflera Plant Care Instructions
There are two very important parts to proper schefflera care. The first is correct sunlight and the second is proper watering.
Light – Schefflera plants are medium light plants, which means that they need bright but indirect light. A common complaint about schefflera plants is that they get leggy and floppy. This problem is caused by too little light. Making sure that you are growing schefflera in the right kind of light will help prevent leggy growth. On the other side, you do not want to place a schefflera houseplant in direct, bright light, as this will burn the leaves.
Water – When growing schefflera, be aware that watering correctly will help to keep your schefflera houseplant healthy. To water correctly, wait until the soil in the pot dries out and then thoroughly soak the soil when you water. Often, people will over water their schefflera plant and this will eventually kill it. Yellow leaves that fall off the plant is a sign that you may be watering too much.
Additional care of schefflera includes pruning and fertilization.
Pruning – Your schefflera may also need to be pruned occasionally, especially if it is not getting quite enough light. Pruning a schefflera is simple. Just cut off what you feel is overgrown or leggy back to a size or shape you like. Schefflera houseplants rebound quickly from pruning and will look even fuller and more lush shortly after pruning. Fertilizer – You do not need to fertilize your schefflera, but if you would like to, you can give it a half solution water soluble fertilizer once a year. Schefflera plants are poisonous to people and animals, if eaten. It is not often fatal but will cause a burning sensation, swelling, difficulty swallowing, and in severe cases, difficult breathing.
Schefflera Houseplant Pests and Diseases
Schefflera plants are not often bothered by pests or disease, but it can happen occasionally. Spider mites and mealybugs are the most common pests that affect schefflera plants. In light cases of infestation, washing the plant with water and soap will normally eliminate the pests. With heavier infestations, you many need to treat the plant with an insecticide like neem oil. Also, be aware that pests typically attack this plant if it is stressed. If your schefflera has pests, this is likely a sign it is either getting too little light or too much water. The most common disease that affects schefflera is root rot. This disease is brought on by overwatering and poor drainage in the soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Rubber trees are hardy and versatile houseplants, which leads many people to wonder, “How do you get a start of a rubber tree plant?” Propagating rubber tree plants is easy and means that you will have starts for all of your friends and family. Keep reading to learn how to propagate a rubber tree so that you can give your friends a free rubber tree plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
Propagate a Rubber Tree Plant with Cuttings
Rubber tree plants can grow very tall and this means an indoor rubber tree occasionally needs to be pruned. After pruning, don’t throw out those cuttings; instead, use them to propagate a rubber tree plant.
Propagate a rubber tree plant from cuttings starts with getting a good cutting. The cutting should be about 6 inches long and have at least two sets of leaves. The next step in how to start a rubber tree plant from cuttings is to remove the bottom set of leaves from the cutting. If you would like, you can dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Then, place the rubber tree cutting in moist but well-draining potting soil. Cover the cutting with either a jar or clear plastic, but make sure that the intact leaves do not touch the glass or plastic. If you need to, you can cut the remaining leaves in half, removing the half that is not attached to the stem. Place the rubber tree plant cutting in a warm place that is lit by only indirect light. In two to three weeks, the rubber tree cutting should have developed roots and the covering can be removed.
Using Air Layering for Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Another way to propagate a rubber tree plant is by using air layering. This method basically leaves the “cutting” on the rubber tree while it is rooting. The first step in propagating a rubber tree with air layering is to choose a stem to make into a new plant. The stem should be at least 12 inches long, but can be longer if you would like. Next, remove any leaves immediately above and below the area where you will be rooting the stem, then take a sharp knife and carefully remove a 1-inch wide strip of bark that goes all the way around the stem. You should have a “naked” ring that goes around the stem of the rubber tree plant. Remove all of the soft tissue in that ring, but leave the hard center wood intact.
After this, dust the ring with rooting hormone and cover the ring with damp sphagnum moss. Secure the sphagnum moss to the stem with a plastic covering. Make sure the moss is completely covered. The plastic will help keep the sphagnum moss damp as well. In two to three weeks, the stem of the rubber tree should have developed roots at the ring. After it has developed roots, cut the rooted stem from the mother plant and repot the new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti and succulents make outstanding landscaping plants. They require little maintenance, grow in a variety of climates, and are easy to care for and grow. Most will even tolerate neglect. These plants are also well adapted to potted environments, making them excellent candidates for growing indoors as well.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
Why is My Cactus Going Soft?
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 F. (21-24 C.) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements. As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Cactus Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial. Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating Cactus Rot Issues
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes. If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium. A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The three common holiday cacti, named for time of year the blooms appear, include Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus and Easter cactus. All three are easy to grow and have similar growth habits and care requirements. Although these familiar cacti are traditionally available in shades of red, today’s holiday cactus varieties come in magenta, pink and scarlet, as well as yellow, white, orange, purple, salmon and apricot. Although all three are native to Brazil, Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus are tropical rain forest plants, while Easter cactus is native to Brazil’s natural forests.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulents are a group of plants with one of the most diverse forms, colors and blooms. These easy to care for indoor and outdoor specimens are a dream for the busy gardener. What is a succulent plant? Succulents are specialized plants that store water in their leaves and/or stems. They are remarkably adapted to harsh climates where water is scarce or comes sporadically. Merriam Webster defines a succulent as “full of juice” or “juicy.” Read on for some fun succulent plant info so you can get started collecting the myriad of varieties available in this special class of plant.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
What is a Succulent?
Oddly, some botanists and horticultural experts differ on which plants are technically succulents. Their appearance differs from species to species, but one common characteristic is swollen leaves, pads or stems. The exact classification of a certain plant will have to go to the experts, but whatever the case, all types of succulents or those that appear to be succulents are pleasing to the eye, minimal regarding care and produce delightful little surprises during their life cycle. Again, referring to the dictionary, a succulent plant has thick stems or leaves that store water. This unique adaptation allows the plant to survive in low moisture regions of the world. Succulents are often thought to be native only to arid regions, such as deserts, but they also belong in forest settings, high alpine regions, coasts and dry tropical areas. There are over 50 families that are classed as succulents. There are both xerophytic succulents that thrive in dry areas and halophytic types which live in boggy saline soil. The xerophytic succulents are the best known form and widely available as house or garden plants.
Succulent Plant Info
While most types of succulents require warm temperatures, moderately dry, well-draining soil and sunlight, some can withstand cooler or even downright cold temperatures. These hardy succulents are able to withstand brief freezes and fend off frost damage. Occasionally, cold snaps will force a plant into dormancy, but well established hardy types will spring back when warm weather returns. It is important to know if your succulent is a tropical or hardy variety in instances where it is planted outdoors. One of the main succulent plant characteristics is thick, fleshy leaves or pads but there are also non-succulent leaved varieties. This is why botanists and other experts disagree on some plant’s classification. The succulent vs. cactus question is often debated even among professional growers. This is because cacti produce the fleshy leaves but lack other characteristics familiar to the family. In actuality, a cactus is indeed a succulent due to the trait of harnessing and storing water shared by all species in the group. That said, a succulent is not considered a cactus.
Succulent Plant Types
If swollen leaves and stems are the main succulent plant characteristics visible, there are also other qualities which delineate the group. Shallow roots are one adaptation shared among the succulents. A few varieties have deeper tap roots but the majority has wide, surface root zones that allow maximum moisture capture when infrequent rains occur. Some of the succulent plant types commonly available are: Agaves Yucca Aloe Cacti Bromeliad Sedum Sempervivum Echeveria Various euphorbias Some types of orchids It is important to note their hardiness range, but many of these can thrive in the garden. Smaller succulents make varied and fascinating container displays for the indoors. Almost all species need at least 8 hours of light, warm daytime temperatures, consistent water during the growing season and well-drained soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rubber tree is a large houseplant and most people find it is easy to grow and care for indoors. However, some people ask about growing outdoor rubber tree plants. In fact, in some areas, this plant is used as a screen or patio plant. So, can you grow rubber plant outside? Read more to learn about taking care of a rubber plant outside in your area.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Ficus plants are commonly sold as houseplants. One of the more striking due to its glossy leaves, is the rubber tree plant. These are fairly easy to care for but dislike being moved and are fussy about water. Rubber plant watering must provide matching moisture to what the plants would find in their native Southeast Asian habitat. However, in the home interior this may be difficult to achieve unless you are vigilant or use a plant moisture meter. Learn to know signs for when to water a rubber tree plant, so your Ficus is happy and healthy.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
How Much Water Do Rubber Tree Plants Need?
Ficus are a large genus of tropical to semi-tropical plants, many of which are perfect for the home interior. The rubber plant produces a perfect home sized tree and is adaptable to indoor growing.
Water requirements for rubber plants are consistently moist but never soggy. Soggy plants can get root rot, soil gnats and other problems. Dry soil causes leaves to drop and reduces the overall health and growth of the plant. Getting rubber plant watering right will ensure beautiful leaves and maximum growth. Rubber plants are rainforest specimens. As such, they are adapted to plentiful water. But as with most plants, excess or standing water can be detrimental to their health. So how much water do rubber tree plants need?
The first step is to ensure the container the plant is in has adequate drainage holes. Also, make sure the potting medium has some peat, vermiculite or perlite in it. Peat holds water and air, increasing porosity. Vermiculite has the same purpose while a calcined clay perlite improves moisture and nutrient holding abilities of the soil medium. Use a dish under the plant that is lined with pebbles to catch excess moisture but keep the roots from sitting in water. This will evaporate gradually increasing humidity around the rubber tree. Never allow a container to sit in a saucer or dish without rocks. Roots sitting in soil will deteriorate and the plant will suffer.
When to Water a Rubber Tree Plant
The obvious answer is when the plant is dry but there is more to it than that. Even indoor plants respond to light and temperature changes. In winter, plants get less daylight and feel cold. They go into a sort of hibernation until more sunlight is available. Therefore, during winter you can cut watering in half. However, plants that are positioned near a fireplace or furnace will have their potting soil dry out much more quickly. In any case, if the top few inches of soil are dry, it is time to water. You may opt for a water meter or simply insert your finger into soil. Most water meters should read a 4 at optimum moisture levels. Rubber plants need to be checked weekly during the growing season. A good sign that you are overwatering is yellow leaves. At the first sign of yellowing, decrease watering slightly and healthy green, glossy leaves appear. Prior to watering, allow tap water to sit for a few hours to allow chlorine to evaporate and the water to come to room temperature. This causes less shock to the plant than icy water. When watering a rubber plant, drench the soil completely until excess moisture runs out the drainage holes. This will not only water the roots but leach out any built-up salts from fertilizing. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between each watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Most people are familiar with how to grow prayer plants. The prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura) is easy to grow but has specific needs. Keep reading to learn what those needs are.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Pitcher plant care is relatively easy and they make interesting houseplants or outdoor specimens in milder climes. Do pitcher plants need fertilizer? In ideal conditions, the plant makes all the food it needs by supplementing with insects that provide nitrogen. Indoor plants may need a little help in the nitrogen department. Find out how to fertilize a pitcher plant and enjoy the distinctive appearance and habits of this amazing species.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer?
Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care
Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant
Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
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