文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis Sativus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Daucus carota
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost.
Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white!
If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil.
Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING
Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade.
Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE
Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Wireworms
Flea Beetles
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost.
Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white!
If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil.
Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING
Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade.
Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE
Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Wireworms
Flea Beetles
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Spathiphyllum
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Shade
FLOWER COLOR: White
Peace lilies are one of the most common houseplants because they are so easy to grow. Most household varieties grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger cultivars can reach 6 feet in height.
Peace lilies produce white flowers in the early summer and continue to bloom throughout the year.
Note: Keep peace lilies out of the reach of small children and pets, as all parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate, an irritant and toxin.
PLANTING
Plant with an all-purpose potting soil and keep it lightly moist throughout the year.
Repotting annually in the spring is good for the lily because it will need refreshed soil.
CARE
Keep the soil moist at all times, but do not overwater.
During the winter, fertilize every 6 weeks or so.
Peace lilies enjoy a warmer environment, so keep them in temperatures above 60°F.
Keep out of direct sunlight, but in a well-lit area.
If no flowers are appearing, the plant may not be getting enough light.
PESTS/DISEASES
Brown leaf tips are common with excessive light, over fertilization, or lack of water and/or low humidity. Keeping the plant on a tray of moistened gravel can help increase humidity.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Shade
FLOWER COLOR: White
Peace lilies are one of the most common houseplants because they are so easy to grow. Most household varieties grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger cultivars can reach 6 feet in height.
Peace lilies produce white flowers in the early summer and continue to bloom throughout the year.
Note: Keep peace lilies out of the reach of small children and pets, as all parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate, an irritant and toxin.
PLANTING
Plant with an all-purpose potting soil and keep it lightly moist throughout the year.
Repotting annually in the spring is good for the lily because it will need refreshed soil.
CARE
Keep the soil moist at all times, but do not overwater.
During the winter, fertilize every 6 weeks or so.
Peace lilies enjoy a warmer environment, so keep them in temperatures above 60°F.
Keep out of direct sunlight, but in a well-lit area.
If no flowers are appearing, the plant may not be getting enough light.
PESTS/DISEASES
Brown leaf tips are common with excessive light, over fertilization, or lack of water and/or low humidity. Keeping the plant on a tray of moistened gravel can help increase humidity.
1
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pelargonium
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Schlumbergera hybrids
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Aloe barbadensis
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: RedYellow
The Aloe Vera plant is an attractive succulent with thick, variegated leaves that fan out from its center base. Aloe vera plants are easy to keep and useful, too, as the juice from their leaves will relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for everyday use.
PLANTING
Plant in wide containers with a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting.
Place in indirect sunlight or artificial light.
CARE
Water aloe deeply, but in order to discourage rot, allow the soil to dry at least 1 to 2 inches deep between waterings. Water even less often in winter.
Aloe vera plants produce offsets—also known as plantlets or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant.
Knock your aloe vera out of its pot and find where the offsets are attached. Sever them from the mother plant with a knife. Allow the cuts on the offsets and the mother plant to callus over for a day or two, then pot them in a standard potting mix. Put in a sunny location. Wait a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are susceptible to common garden pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Some common diseases are root rot, soft rot, fungal stem, and leaf rot. Avoid overwatering to prevent these conditions from developing.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: RedYellow
The Aloe Vera plant is an attractive succulent with thick, variegated leaves that fan out from its center base. Aloe vera plants are easy to keep and useful, too, as the juice from their leaves will relieve pain from scrapes and burns when applied topically. Keep the aloe vera plant in a pot near a kitchen window for everyday use.
PLANTING
Plant in wide containers with a well-draining potting mix, such as those made for cacti and succulents. Aloe vera plants are hardy, but a lack of proper drainage can cause rot and wilting.
Place in indirect sunlight or artificial light.
CARE
Water aloe deeply, but in order to discourage rot, allow the soil to dry at least 1 to 2 inches deep between waterings. Water even less often in winter.
Aloe vera plants produce offsets—also known as plantlets or “babies”—that can be removed to produce an entirely new plant.
Knock your aloe vera out of its pot and find where the offsets are attached. Sever them from the mother plant with a knife. Allow the cuts on the offsets and the mother plant to callus over for a day or two, then pot them in a standard potting mix. Put in a sunny location. Wait a week to water and keep the soil on the dry side.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aloe vera plants are susceptible to common garden pests, such as mealybugs and scale.
Some common diseases are root rot, soft rot, fungal stem, and leaf rot. Avoid overwatering to prevent these conditions from developing.
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6
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Saintpaulia
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lilium
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
These hearty bulbs are easy to grow and require minimal care, provided that you plant them in the right place.
At home in both formal and naturalistic settings, most lilies also take readily to containers. Plus, they make wonderful cut flowers, coming in pink, gold, red, orange, and white colors.
Lilies bloom tend to bloom from early summer to fall, depending on the type. By carefully blending early, mid-season, and late varieties into your garden, you will enjoy their magnificent blooms from spring through frost.
PLANTING
Plant lily bulbs in spring or autumn.
Note: Lilies do not thrive in Zones 9 to 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the scales may rot the bulb, so a well-drained site is essential.
Also, select a site that gets full sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulbs are high and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
Space bulbs at a distance equal to 3 times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
In active growth, water freely especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks after flowering.
Keep moist in winter.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not rebloom, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
Leave the foliage until it turns brown in the fall. This is important so that the plant stores energy for next year’s flowering. Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift them and divide into clumps. Replant using compost and bonemeal.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold is sometimes a problem, especially in a wet, cool spring or summer. Make sure lilies are not crowded and have plenty of air circulation.
Viruses, spread by aphids, may be troublesome, although some cultivars are virus-tolerant.
Red lily beetles, slugs, and snails may occur.
Deer, rabbits, voles, and groundhogs may eat entire plants. If these critters are a problem, plant the bulbs in buried wire cages to protect them from getting eaten.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
These hearty bulbs are easy to grow and require minimal care, provided that you plant them in the right place.
At home in both formal and naturalistic settings, most lilies also take readily to containers. Plus, they make wonderful cut flowers, coming in pink, gold, red, orange, and white colors.
Lilies bloom tend to bloom from early summer to fall, depending on the type. By carefully blending early, mid-season, and late varieties into your garden, you will enjoy their magnificent blooms from spring through frost.
PLANTING
Plant lily bulbs in spring or autumn.
Note: Lilies do not thrive in Zones 9 to 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the scales may rot the bulb, so a well-drained site is essential.
Also, select a site that gets full sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulbs are high and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
Space bulbs at a distance equal to 3 times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
In active growth, water freely especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks after flowering.
Keep moist in winter.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not rebloom, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
Leave the foliage until it turns brown in the fall. This is important so that the plant stores energy for next year’s flowering. Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift them and divide into clumps. Replant using compost and bonemeal.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold is sometimes a problem, especially in a wet, cool spring or summer. Make sure lilies are not crowded and have plenty of air circulation.
Viruses, spread by aphids, may be troublesome, although some cultivars are virus-tolerant.
Red lily beetles, slugs, and snails may occur.
Deer, rabbits, voles, and groundhogs may eat entire plants. If these critters are a problem, plant the bulbs in buried wire cages to protect them from getting eaten.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia.
As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia.
As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Give your garden and outdoor living spaces a shot of steady, season-long color by planting marigolds. This popular annual flower is a garden favorite because they are easy to care for, grow well from seeds, and attract pollinators. Many varieties of marigolds can also help repel root-knot nematodes, microscopic worms that live in the soil and can damage vegetable and fruit plants. Here is everything you need to know to grow marigolds.
How to Choose Marigolds
Before planting marigolds, decide which type you want to grow. The most commonly grown marigolds are African (also called American or Aztec) and French types. African marigolds have large flower heads (up to 5 inches across) on plants that grow from 10 to 36 inches tall, making them good for fresh cutting. French marigolds are smaller and bushier, with flowers up to 2 inches across on plants that are 6 to 18 inches tall. They are excellent for planting among taller plants in need of pollination.
Where to Plant Marigolds
When planting marigolds, choose a spot in full sun. In warmest regions, provide protection from the sun during the hottest part of the day. As you ponder where to plant, understand that these annual flowers crave fertile, well-drained soil. Marigolds planted in heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well are usually not productive.
How to Water Marigolds
When growing marigolds, check soil weekly: When the top inch is dry, it’s time to water. (Marigolds growing in containers may need more frequent watering.) Each time you water, be sure to drench the soil, and aim the nozzle or spout of your watering device toward the base of the plants.
How to Care for Marigolds
While growing marigolds, you may discover Japanese beetles on the blooms, especially the larger blossoms of the African types. Knock the beetles into soapy water to drown them, or spray plants with Ortho® Insect Killer Rose & Flower. You will also want to keep an eye out for spent flowers, and remove them as soon as you see them. This process is called deadheading, and it encourages plants to form new flower buds. Marigolds stand up to heat and humidity, but in the hottest regions, plants can enter a rest period during summer’s most sizzling days. Keep plants well-watered during this time. As soon as intense heat lifts, plants should resume blooming.
How to Use Marigolds
In the garden, French marigolds create a colorful edging that beckons butterflies and other pollinators. African marigolds are ideal for picking for fresh arrangements. In addition to the beauty they offer, marigolds can also be planted as pest control in the vegetable garden or flower beds. They contain a chemical (thiophene) that helps control nematodes in soil. Marigold flowers make great additions to bouquets and dry well. You can also eat the petals, which have a slightly peppery flavor. Put them in salads or on baked goods, or add them to stir-fries.
How to Pick Marigolds
If you’re picking marigolds for bouquets or drying, cut blossoms in the morning or late afternoon. Harvest flowers for either use when they are fully open. Choose newly opened flowers for edible uses.
How to Choose Marigolds
Before planting marigolds, decide which type you want to grow. The most commonly grown marigolds are African (also called American or Aztec) and French types. African marigolds have large flower heads (up to 5 inches across) on plants that grow from 10 to 36 inches tall, making them good for fresh cutting. French marigolds are smaller and bushier, with flowers up to 2 inches across on plants that are 6 to 18 inches tall. They are excellent for planting among taller plants in need of pollination.
Where to Plant Marigolds
When planting marigolds, choose a spot in full sun. In warmest regions, provide protection from the sun during the hottest part of the day. As you ponder where to plant, understand that these annual flowers crave fertile, well-drained soil. Marigolds planted in heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well are usually not productive.
How to Water Marigolds
When growing marigolds, check soil weekly: When the top inch is dry, it’s time to water. (Marigolds growing in containers may need more frequent watering.) Each time you water, be sure to drench the soil, and aim the nozzle or spout of your watering device toward the base of the plants.
How to Care for Marigolds
While growing marigolds, you may discover Japanese beetles on the blooms, especially the larger blossoms of the African types. Knock the beetles into soapy water to drown them, or spray plants with Ortho® Insect Killer Rose & Flower. You will also want to keep an eye out for spent flowers, and remove them as soon as you see them. This process is called deadheading, and it encourages plants to form new flower buds. Marigolds stand up to heat and humidity, but in the hottest regions, plants can enter a rest period during summer’s most sizzling days. Keep plants well-watered during this time. As soon as intense heat lifts, plants should resume blooming.
How to Use Marigolds
In the garden, French marigolds create a colorful edging that beckons butterflies and other pollinators. African marigolds are ideal for picking for fresh arrangements. In addition to the beauty they offer, marigolds can also be planted as pest control in the vegetable garden or flower beds. They contain a chemical (thiophene) that helps control nematodes in soil. Marigold flowers make great additions to bouquets and dry well. You can also eat the petals, which have a slightly peppery flavor. Put them in salads or on baked goods, or add them to stir-fries.
How to Pick Marigolds
If you’re picking marigolds for bouquets or drying, cut blossoms in the morning or late afternoon. Harvest flowers for either use when they are fully open. Choose newly opened flowers for edible uses.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Sunflowers are such a colorful and whimsical addition to every garden. They’re easy to grow from seed, and make excellent cut flowers.
There are hundreds of different varieties of sunflowers, including perennial varieties that come back every year. Home gardeners most commonly plant annual varieties (which last only one growing season), including both dwarf and tall varieties with multiple branches and dozens of blooms (perfect for cutting). The types of sunflowers grown especially for seed harvesting also fall into the category of annual flowers. You can find sunflowers with flower colors ranging from pale lemon yellow to orange, pink, burgundy, and bright yellow. There are also bi-color and multi-color varieties.
No matter which you choose, let us teach you how to grow sunflowers for weeks of gorgeous flowers.
Where to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers grow best in full, bright sun, and in evenly moist, well-drained soil. The amount of space they need depends on which varieties you are growing. Branching types with multiple blooms on one stem need more space horizontally than large single-flowered types. Take care to select a spot to grow taller varieties where they won’t throw too much shade on other shorter, sun-loving plants. The north side of a flower border is almost always a good spot.
When to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers are warm-weather plants. You can plant sunflowers outside at the same time you plant peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zinnias, and other warm-season vegetables and flowers. For a longer sunflower bloom period, plant a row or grouping of sunflowers every two weeks for four to six weeks during the early summer.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Sunflowers
Make sure your plants get off to the best start! Prepare new in-ground planting areas with Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil, mixing 3 inches of garden soil into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. This will feed new plants and help build strong roots, both of which will mean big, beautiful blooms!
How to Plant Sunflowers
While you can start sunflowers from seed indoors, it’s just as easy to grow them from seed outdoors. Plant sunflower seeds directly into the garden when the soil is warm—at least fifty degrees Fahrenheit. Use your thumb to push seeds 1 to 2 inches deep into the soil. Depth and spacing depends on the variety, so read the instructions on the seed package.
How to Water Sunflowers
Water thoroughly at the time of planting and keep the planting area about as moist as a wrung-out sponge (not soggy) while the seeds are sprouting. Most sunflowers are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but will bloom better with regular water. To be on the safe side, water sunflowers well when the top two inches of soil are dry.
How to Feed Sunflowers
While sunflowers are not big feeders, you will get more and better blooms if you make sure they get a steady stream of nutrition. A month after planting, begin feeding sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. Make sure to follow the directions on the package.
How to Stake Sunflowers
Whether or not you need to stake your sunflowers depends on how tall they get, the strength of the stems, and the branching pattern. If you’re growing a bunch of sunflowers for cut flowers, you can plant the seeds and then create a latticework of stakes and twine for the plants to grow up through. Create two rows of staggered stakes with 3 feet in between each stake. Run twine around the stakes to create a wide lattice. You can also stake individual plants that are beginning to droop by placing a sturdy stake 3 inches from the plant stem and tying the stem to the stake, loosely, with twine in a couple of places.
How to Avoid Pest Problems with Sunflowers
Squirrels and chipmunks can be a problem when you first plant sunflower seeds, as they love to dig them up and eat them. Shake some ground cayenne pepper on the ground around where you’ve planted the seeds. If that doesn’t deter them, try starting seeds indoors and then planting them outside once they have sprouted. If you’re growing sunflowers for seed, these pests can be a problem near the time of harvest as well. When the outer petals dry up, cover the large flower heads with lightweight cloth tied around the stem.
How to Harvest Sunflower Seeds
Cut the large flower heads off when the back of the large flower disk has turned black and the seed heads are dry. Leave in a cool, dry place for a few days to completely dry out, and then remove the seeds by gently rubbing the flower heads with your thumbs. Keep dried seeds in a breathable paper or cloth bag to prevent mold growth.
How to Grow Sunflowers: Recap
Plant in a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil.
Prepare the existing soil by adding Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil.
Sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil warms up in the spring.
Water seeds at the time of planting and regularly throughout the growing season.
Feed sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, starting a month after planting.
Stake sunflowers if they have multiple branches or heavy flower heads.
Prevent pests from digging up newly planted seeds and from eating seed heads you hope to harvest.
Harvest flower heads when the back has turned black and the seeds have dried out.
There are hundreds of different varieties of sunflowers, including perennial varieties that come back every year. Home gardeners most commonly plant annual varieties (which last only one growing season), including both dwarf and tall varieties with multiple branches and dozens of blooms (perfect for cutting). The types of sunflowers grown especially for seed harvesting also fall into the category of annual flowers. You can find sunflowers with flower colors ranging from pale lemon yellow to orange, pink, burgundy, and bright yellow. There are also bi-color and multi-color varieties.
No matter which you choose, let us teach you how to grow sunflowers for weeks of gorgeous flowers.
Where to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers grow best in full, bright sun, and in evenly moist, well-drained soil. The amount of space they need depends on which varieties you are growing. Branching types with multiple blooms on one stem need more space horizontally than large single-flowered types. Take care to select a spot to grow taller varieties where they won’t throw too much shade on other shorter, sun-loving plants. The north side of a flower border is almost always a good spot.
When to Plant Sunflowers
Sunflowers are warm-weather plants. You can plant sunflowers outside at the same time you plant peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, zinnias, and other warm-season vegetables and flowers. For a longer sunflower bloom period, plant a row or grouping of sunflowers every two weeks for four to six weeks during the early summer.
How to Prepare the Soil for Planting Sunflowers
Make sure your plants get off to the best start! Prepare new in-ground planting areas with Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil, mixing 3 inches of garden soil into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil. This will feed new plants and help build strong roots, both of which will mean big, beautiful blooms!
How to Plant Sunflowers
While you can start sunflowers from seed indoors, it’s just as easy to grow them from seed outdoors. Plant sunflower seeds directly into the garden when the soil is warm—at least fifty degrees Fahrenheit. Use your thumb to push seeds 1 to 2 inches deep into the soil. Depth and spacing depends on the variety, so read the instructions on the seed package.
How to Water Sunflowers
Water thoroughly at the time of planting and keep the planting area about as moist as a wrung-out sponge (not soggy) while the seeds are sprouting. Most sunflowers are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but will bloom better with regular water. To be on the safe side, water sunflowers well when the top two inches of soil are dry.
How to Feed Sunflowers
While sunflowers are not big feeders, you will get more and better blooms if you make sure they get a steady stream of nutrition. A month after planting, begin feeding sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. Make sure to follow the directions on the package.
How to Stake Sunflowers
Whether or not you need to stake your sunflowers depends on how tall they get, the strength of the stems, and the branching pattern. If you’re growing a bunch of sunflowers for cut flowers, you can plant the seeds and then create a latticework of stakes and twine for the plants to grow up through. Create two rows of staggered stakes with 3 feet in between each stake. Run twine around the stakes to create a wide lattice. You can also stake individual plants that are beginning to droop by placing a sturdy stake 3 inches from the plant stem and tying the stem to the stake, loosely, with twine in a couple of places.
How to Avoid Pest Problems with Sunflowers
Squirrels and chipmunks can be a problem when you first plant sunflower seeds, as they love to dig them up and eat them. Shake some ground cayenne pepper on the ground around where you’ve planted the seeds. If that doesn’t deter them, try starting seeds indoors and then planting them outside once they have sprouted. If you’re growing sunflowers for seed, these pests can be a problem near the time of harvest as well. When the outer petals dry up, cover the large flower heads with lightweight cloth tied around the stem.
How to Harvest Sunflower Seeds
Cut the large flower heads off when the back of the large flower disk has turned black and the seed heads are dry. Leave in a cool, dry place for a few days to completely dry out, and then remove the seeds by gently rubbing the flower heads with your thumbs. Keep dried seeds in a breathable paper or cloth bag to prevent mold growth.
How to Grow Sunflowers: Recap
Plant in a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil.
Prepare the existing soil by adding Miracle-Gro® All Purpose Garden Soil.
Sow seeds directly in the garden when the soil warms up in the spring.
Water seeds at the time of planting and regularly throughout the growing season.
Feed sunflowers with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food, starting a month after planting.
Stake sunflowers if they have multiple branches or heavy flower heads.
Prevent pests from digging up newly planted seeds and from eating seed heads you hope to harvest.
Harvest flower heads when the back has turned black and the seeds have dried out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月16日
Family - Fabaceae
Flowering - July - October.
Habitat - Acid soils of open woods, glades, and dry open ground.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This species can be found in the southern half of Missouri. The plant is easy to identify becasue of its tall, erect, hirsute stems, its white flowers, and its rounded leaves. This is a common bean species of the dry, cherty slopes of the Ozarks.
Flowering - July - October.
Habitat - Acid soils of open woods, glades, and dry open ground.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This species can be found in the southern half of Missouri. The plant is easy to identify becasue of its tall, erect, hirsute stems, its white flowers, and its rounded leaves. This is a common bean species of the dry, cherty slopes of the Ozarks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月15日
Family - Orchidaceae
Flowering - August - September.
Habitat - Coniferous woods with acidic soils, ravines.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This striking species can be found in just a handful of eastern Ozark counties in Missouri. The plant is easy to ID in the field because of its neat basal leaves. No other species in Missouri has leaves which resemble it. G. pubescens is much more populous in more eastern states and is one of the most common orchids seen.
Flowering - August - September.
Habitat - Coniferous woods with acidic soils, ravines.
Origin - Native to U.S.
Other info. - This striking species can be found in just a handful of eastern Ozark counties in Missouri. The plant is easy to ID in the field because of its neat basal leaves. No other species in Missouri has leaves which resemble it. G. pubescens is much more populous in more eastern states and is one of the most common orchids seen.
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