文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Plants are a quick, inexpensive, and easy way to add something pretty and alive to your space. An indoor succulent garden fits the bill for all these things. Succulents go for a couple dollars a pop at your local nursery or home improvement store, and they are built to survive in the harshest of conditions — perfect for those who tend to forget the watering chore or who don’t have a green thumb.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
Choosing Succulents
In order to choose the best combination of succulents, it’s important to keep variety in mind. Choose plants of different sizes, heights, shapes, and colors. The largest variance for your succulent garden should be in the height, size, and shape of the plants. It’s best to choose around three different colors for the succulents and not many more than that, as too many colors can be overwhelming to the eye. Sticking to just a few colors creates consistency in your garden, yet provides flexibility in the choice of height, size, and types of plants you choose. Some gardening stores will have a variety of succulents planted in one large pot already, but be aware that these plants tend to be planted too close together to stay alive in that same pot long-term.
Potting
Because they have shallow roots, succulents can grow in just about anything you have around the house, from vintage canisters to decorative pots. Try coffee mugs, pots, jars, canisters, buckets, kettles, tin cans, glassware, or any other container that might add to your current space and style. Multiple plants can be placed in the same container in order to create the look of a garden—but be careful not to crowd the plants, as they will grow and need to be replanted in a larger container. If you don’t want to see the soil in the area surrounding the plant, place some decorative stones on top.
Soil
Fill the bottom of the container you choose with several inches of gravel, which allows the water to drain from the roots of the succulent plant after watering; succulent roots must be able to drain, otherwise the plant will die if the roots are moist all the time. On top of the gravel, fill the pot with cactus soil, or an equal mixture of sand and soil. Regular potting soil is too rich and holds too much moisture for succulents, so be sure to use a sandy soil, so that the water can drain properly. A proper mix should be available at your local nursery or home improvement store.
Heat and Light
Succulents and cacti plants like to be warm and dry, and they love the light. If you live someplace dark and gloomy most of the winter, ensure that you have some lights on for these plants, even if they are near a window. Be careful, however, not to place them near windows that get too much sun, such as south-facing windows. While succulents can handle cold weather and lack of sun for periods of time, the light and warmth make them happiest.
Water and Routine Care
Succulents do not need a ton of water to survive, but they must be watered properly. They have shallow roots that should dry between each watering — they will absorb the water they need and the rest can drain out of the bottom, if there’s a hole in the container, or pass through the gravel at the bottom. Because of this, put emphasis on watering them thoroughly as opposed to frequently. Note that if you do over-water them, they will plump up and look healthy before turning sickly.
All succulents will grow to larger sizes and will need to be re-potted from time to time. Be sure not to crowd the plants in pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Succulents are popular plants in both containers and in the landscape—and for good reason. They are low maintenance, drought-tolerant and super easy to maintain. Even “brown thumb” types can keep a succulent alive.
Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil
All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries.
If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water
Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it.
It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them.
When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged.
Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil.
Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves.
Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light
Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day.
You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors.
Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location.
Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.”
Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation.
If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests
Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers
Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants.
The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail.
If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature
Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
Succulents are also popular because they are so beautiful in their own surreal way. Succulents may come from all over the world, but most of them look like they come from outer space—or from deep beneath the sea. Their strong, architectural forms, gorgeous colors and intriguing textures will bring out your inner artist–and their seemingly infinite variety will tempt you to become a collector. Very few people can stop after just one succulent!
Soil
All succulents require excellent soil drainage—this means the water should run through the pot fast, so the plant’s roots don’t get waterlogged. Succulents can die from being planted in ordinary potting soil. When potting succulents, use a bagged soil labeled as being especially for Cacti and Succulents—this is easily found at most nurseries.
If you want to mix your own soil, you will find many recipes available in books and on the Internet, and will have to decide which one works best for you. Some of the most common recommendations are mixing potting soil 1:1 with perlite. You could also mix ordinary potting soil 1:1 with sharp sand (also called builder’s sand). Or you could try 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite to 1 part tiny gravel. If you squeeze a handful of moist soil in your fist and let it go, it should not hold shape but fall apart.
Water
Succulents are adapted to survive in harsh, dry conditions by storing water in their flesh. However, this doesn’t mean that they don’t like water when they can get it. (They’re a little like camels in this way!) The one major tip for growing succulents is simply that they don’t like being soggy. You are far more likely to kill your succulent by overwatering it than by under-watering it.
It’s important that you let the soil in the pot dry out a little between waterings. In general you’d want to give your plants just enough water to keep their leaves plump, and no more. It’s hard to generalize, but this may mean giving potted plants a drink once every week or so, depending on conditions. A pot on a hot patio may appreciate more water than one kept indoors. A small pot dries out faster than a big pot. Plants need more water in summer than in winter. Touch the soil to find out if it’s dry or not. Succulents in the ground will want water every two weeks or so, again, depending on conditions. Remember it’s better to let them get a little dehydrated than to overwater them.
When you water, water until the water soaks through and comes out the bottom of the pot. It’s important to have fast draining soil and drainage at the bottom of the pot so the bottom of the pot doesn’t get waterlogged.
Signs of over-watering: Leaves become squishy and change color, becoming paler, even white, or perhaps brown. If you lift the plant out of its pot you will see rot in the roots. To rescue the situation, cut off the healthiest looking parts, and repot them in dryer soil.
Signs of under watering: When stressed for water, succulents begin to use the water in their leaves and stems, giving them a thin, wrinkled appearance. This is not as serious as the rot from overwatering. They will plump up again after a good watering. They are amazingly resilient—but they’re not indestructible, and if they go too long without water, they will drop all their leaves.
Note: Some succulents go dormant during portions of the year and do not want to be watered during this time. Succulents, like Dudleyas go dormant in the summer, growing only in winter, in conjunction with the rains. They’d rather not be watered in the summer.
Light
Succulents evolved in dry climates, but shouldn’t be confused with tough desert cactus. Generally speaking, full sun outdoors is okay for Aloes and Agaves, but Echeverias (many of the rose or cabbage shaped succulents are Echeverias) prefer a bit of shade, or dappled sunlight. Most succulents appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day.
You can keep potted succulents indoors, but they don’t do well in dim light situations. Try to find a sunny window for them, and give them “sun vacations” outdoors.
Signs a plant is getting too much light: The leaves may scorch, have brown, black or white patches, or just look burnt or withered. Green succulents may turn pretty shades of red and yellow when stressed by bright sun. This is attractive, but also a signal that you should be paying close attention to make sure they don’t get too stressed. Consider moving the pot to a less sunny location.
Sign a plant is getting too little light: A plant desperate for sun will reach or lean toward the light. Sometimes it will throw a lot of energy into elongating its stem to as if it would stretch all the way out the window to better light. This is what is called “getting leggy.”
Legginess is a sure sign of light starvation. Leggy plants can be trimmed into a more attractive form and repotted, then moved somewhere brighter. Light deprived plants can also become just generally sickly, and will be more susceptible to insect infestation.
If you do decide to move a pot to brighter light, particularly if you’re moving it from indoors to outdoors, give it some time to adjust. Let it spend its first couple of days outdoors in the shade, then in dappled sun. Moving it straight into full sun might shock the plant, and cause it to burn.
Pests
Succulents are pretty tough, but they can still have problems with insects and other pests: snails and mealy bugs are two common foes.
Containers
Succulents adapt well to many types of containers, from fancy ceramics to funky found art objects. They are shallow rooted as a rule, so can thrive in containers too shallow for regular plants. The one important rule for containers is that they should have drainage holes. It’s trendy these days to pop succulents into all sorts of containers, like canning jars or antique vases, but if the container does not have a drainage hole at the bottom, you will be at high risk for overwatering your plants.
The good news is that you can make a drainage hole in almost anything with an electric drill — there are specialty drill bits different materials, including glass and ceramics. Ask at your local hardware store for a bit which will match your container. While you’re at the hardware store, buy some 3 in1 oil—use this on ceramic bits to keep them from smoking. Metal containers are perhaps the easiest to work with: you can make holes in tin cans and old metal containers with just a hammer and nail.
If you decide to skip the drainage hole, water sparingly and hope for the best. In such cases, taller containers work better than shallow ones, because the water tends to gather in the low parts of the pot, so short-rooted succulents have some hope of keeping their feet dry if all the water sinks to the bottom of a deep pot. It’s also okay to treat your succulents more like cut flowers, and put together arrangements which are meant to be temporary—a table centerpiece, for instance. In these cases you don’t have to worry about drainage, or light, or anything else.
Temperature
Your outdoor plants should be fine down to 40°F (4.5°C) or a bit lower. Freezing temperatures can damage succulents, with the exception of certain Stonecrops and Sempervivums, which are cold tolerant. If you hear there is going to be a frost, bring your potted succulents inside, or into shelter, like a garage. In places with frosty winters succulents need to be potted up and moved to shelter from the entire winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Yet another wildflower favorite and must have for the garden is the Tradescantia (Spiderwort) plant. These interesting flowers not only offer something different to the landscape but are extremely easy to grow and care for.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Peperomia is a relatively easy, compact, and attractive little plant to grow. They are neither as striking as Begonias nor as hardy as Dracaena, which may account for their relatively low profile in the world of houseplants. But these plants have all the features we look for in houseplants: variability, interesting leaves, and tolerance for a relatively wide range of conditions. Although it may be tempting to think of Peperomia as succulents, due to their thick, slightly succulent leaves, that would be a mistake because they generally prefer higher humidity and more water than most succulents. In fact, these plants are native to South American rain forests, where they grow quite happily in the loamy, dappled light, cool understory of the rain forest.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sedum morganianum also known as Donkey’s Tailis, is a popular and easy-to-grow trailing succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-dropped shaped leaves. It may also be called Burro’s Tail, Lamb’s Tail, or Horse’s Tail. These plants make excellent hanging subjects, or they can be used as trailers in small pots. A mature specimen might have branches up to 2 feet (60 cm) long, with dozens of grey-green, plump leaves lined up like droplets. Flowers readily emerge in late summer in hanging clusters of small blossoms in red, yellow or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Creating your own succulent garden is a lot of fun and much easier than you might expect. Here’s an easy guide to becoming a green-thumbed succulent expert in the comfort of your own home.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
Choose Different Types of Succulents
Succulents come in many varieties of striking shapes and textures to suit every taste and achieve your desired look. These low maintenance water-savers are sturdy enough to experiment using different combinations, so don’t be afraid to choose different types of succulents for your garden. Here are some of our favorite succulents for outdoor gardens:
Rosettes: The evergreen leaves of rosettes form a unique flower-like aesthetic and are a popular choice for groundcover.
Flowering Succulents: There are many types of succulents that contrast their green foliage with beautiful blooms in various colors.
Cacti: The thick trunks of cacti can add some tree-like density to your desert oasis. Be careful to plant this succulent away from areas where the kids may play—the thorns are sharp!
Mix and Match Succulents
Try and mix new combinations to let your inner landscape artist shine. Once you choose your succulents, get out a pen and paper to sketch out your ideas first. Take a look at websites like Pinterest or Houzz for inspiration. You can also place plants next to each other in their planters before you plant in order to see which textures and combinations play nicely off each other. Here are some ideas to get your creative juices flowing:
Try laying rows of ground cover succulents, such as Autumn Joy and rosettes, in your entryway. Plant these amidst garden rocks to create a Zen-like pathway to your front door.
Mix different color blooming succulents in your backyard to experience a kaleidoscope of color come spring.
Use cacti and Agave americana on the outer wall of your garden to act as a gate and give you privacy.
Expert Care
Your succulents need just the right amount of water. Knowing just the right amount of water to give each of your succulents will keep your plants living longer and healthier in the long run. The hardy plants normally need water only once per week. Your plant will show you if it is drinking the right amount, which can vary depending on the time of year and if you live in a humid or dry area.
If you are overwatering, the plants can easily rot and lose their petals.
If you are underwatering, the petals will get that shriveled “prune” look.
Always water your succulents less in winter months when there is less sunlight and more rain.
If you live in a humid area, water your succulents less often.
Succulents like just the right amount of bright filtered light. When planning where to create your succulent garden, make sure the spot has bright filtered light without direct sun for long periods of time. Your succulents will also show you if they need more light or if they are getting a little “sunburned”.
If your garden is getting too much light, the leaves will get white or brown with burned-looking spots. If you see this, move the plant to a spot with less light.
If your garden is getting too little sun, the plants will lose their color and stretch out, as if they are reaching and looking for light. If this happens, pinch the leaves back to their normal height and move them to a spot with more sun.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Some gardeners find tropical plants intimidating. Succulents in particular tend to have unusual requirements, and gardeners sometimes worry about the plants harming pets if eaten. The Agave attenuata is a tropical plant that is actually quite easy to care for in a backyard garden. Once homeowners discover how easy it is to properly care for the Agave attenuata, the plant becomes even more appealing, whether positioned in a lawn plot or placed in a container on the patio.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti are easy-care houseplants because their feeding and watering needs are extremely low. You can largely ignore them and they still thrive. But if you’re a chronic overwaterer, cacti may be a source of endless frustration. When your cactus has clearly been overwatered, don’t fear — there is a chance you can save it. If there is no fungal or bacterial rot present, a change of neighborhoods may be enough to get your cactus back on track.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
Damage Assessment
If you suspect overwatering and damage, such as soft brown spots, are obvious on the outside of the cactus, unpot the plant by wrapping a few layers of newspaper around it and tipping the cactus out. Carefully brush the soil from the roots and check them for brown or black areas. Extensive damage may be difficult to fix, but if most of the roots are still white, you’re in good shape. Cut away the black and brown roots and leave the cactus out of its pot to dry. If brown or black rot areas are extensive, you will need to reroot the cactus. A cactus that has only been occasionally overwatered will recover without further drama.
Encourage Drainage
When overwatering is a chronic problem, help the cactus to shed as much water as quickly as possible in the future. Select an unglazed clay pot only slightly bigger than the cactus and fill it with a commercial cactus mix. Pot the cactus in the mix gently, so you don’t upset its delicate roots. The clay pot will wick away more water from the root zone while the loose cactus mix allows water to drain quickly and completely. You should only plant very large landscape cacti directly in the ground because landscape plantings give you less control over drainage.
Rerooting
When roots or tissues are extensively damaged from overwatering, use a sharp, clean knife to cut away all the rot from the cactus. Even a small portion of healthy tissue can regenerate a whole plant, but if you leave the rot behind, it may continue to spread. Allow the cactus to dry on the counter for several days until a thick scab forms on the cut sections. Place the remaining cactus section into a clay pot with cactus soil and bury it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep unless there isn’t much of the cactus left — in that case, bury it about halfway. Don’t water the cactus for the first week, and only water sparingly after that until new growth appears.
Proper Watering
Once your cactus is repotted and ready for success, correct watering is vital to prevent new problems. Only water cacti when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of the soil — depending on the size of the cactus — is completely dry. Do not water the plant from the bottom and never leave it sitting in a saucer of water. It is much better for cacti to be dry than to be wet — a good rule of thumb is to water about once every 10 days.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Christmas Cactus is a hardy tropical cactus that brightens the environment with gorgeous, red and pink blooms around the winter holidays. Although Christmas Cactus is easy to get along with and requires minimal care, it is susceptible to root rot. Usually, this dreaded fungal disease is not caused by inattention, but is the result of improper watering.
Signs of Root Rot
A Christmas Cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas Cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay.
If you determine that your Christmas Cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treatment
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas Cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight.
Place the Christmas Cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas Cactus.
Prevention
When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas Cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water.
Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
Signs of Root Rot
A Christmas Cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas Cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay.
If you determine that your Christmas Cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treatment
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas Cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight.
Place the Christmas Cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas Cactus.
Prevention
When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas Cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water.
Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti are remarkably durable and low in maintenance. The succulents need little more than sun, well drained soil and rare moisture. The pests and problems common to the plant group are minimal and usually easy to surmount. Cactus problems may range from sucking pests, like whitefly, to common rots from bacteria or fungal disease. One of the telltale signs of a problem is a soft, mushy cactus.
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements.
As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial.
Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes.
If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium.
A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
The arid gardener may ask, “Why is my cactus going soft?” Likely causes are disease, cultivation and improper site and ambient conditions.
Cacti generally have low moisture needs. They thrive in temperatures above 70 to 75 °F (21 to 24 °C) in sunny locations and require little supplemental nutrients. Potted plants need good drainage holes and a soil mix with plenty of grit. In-ground plants have similar requirements.
As with any plant, cacti can become diseased or damaged. A common problem is soft spots in the flesh of the plant. These may be discolored or corky around the spot and the center is mushy and wet. The reasons for such spots may be disease or simply mechanical injury to the pads and stems of the cacti. Cactus rot issues must be dealt with quickly to prevent spread to the rest of the plant and serious loss of vigor, which may become permanent.
Problems with Fungal and Bacterial Diseases
Bacteria and fungus are introduced to the plant from openings in the flesh. The open areas may be from insect or animal activity, damage from inanimate objects or heavy weather, such as hail. The action of injury isn’t important, but the damage from fungal spores or bacteria is crucial.
Warm, moist conditions accelerate the production of fungi spores and increase bacterial production. Once the organism takes hold in your plant, you will see soft, mushy cactus. Symptoms to watch for include small sunken spots, discolored scabs, round soft areas surrounded by fruiting bodies, and black or other colored dots on the surface of the cacti skin. You may even notice some oozing of your cactus plants.
Treating
Cactus problems that have gotten into the root usually result in a slowly dying plant, while topical issues in the upper body can be treated easily. Most cacti respond well to excising the diseased tissue. Use a sharp sterile knife to dig out the damaged flesh and allow the hole to dry out. Don’t water overhead as the wound closes.
If the damage has infected the roots, there is very little you can do. You can try to repot the plant, removing diseased soil and replacing it with sterile soil. You should wash the roots off well before replanting in fresh potting medium.
A soft, mushy cactus can also be saved by taking cuttings and letting them root for a fresh new plant. Allow the cutting to callus over for a few days before you insert it into sand. Rooting the cutting may take several weeks. This method of propagation will produce a healthy cactus that is the same as the parent plant.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents and their care are different from annuals, perennials, shrubs, or other greenery. They’re drought tolerant, easy to care for, uniquely shaped, and are able to thrive in places that would likely kill other plants. Whether you’re new to growing these living treasures, or you’re more experienced, some of these myths may surprise you. It’s time to dispel these common myths that keep your plants from thriving.
1. All Succulents are Hardy
Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum.
2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary
Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun.
3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand
Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil.
4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents
Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather
Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible
Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home.
7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents
Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable
Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
1. All Succulents are Hardy
Although succulents are hardy (they’re most definitely hardier than most plants), hardy doesn’t mean they’re capable of handling extreme conditions for long periods of time. Some succulents are hardier than others. For outdoor planting, it is recommended to aim toward hardier succulents since they are able to withstand more. Some good choices for hardy succulents include Sedum and Sempervivum.
2. Full, Direct Sunlight is Necessary
Many species can handle full sun during the day. This doesn’t apply to all succulents. Most succulents enjoy bright morning sunlight. Afternoon sunlight is typically too hot and harsh. In fact, full, direct sunlight, can harm your plant rather than help it. Full sun increases the likelihood of your succulent leaves burning and killing it. While succulents are considered to be sun-loving plants, be aware how long you keep your succulent in full sun.
3. Succulents should be Planted in Sand
Some assume that sand is best suited for planting succulents. Indeed, succulents need excellent drainage, but more than likely sand is not the best option. Sand can actually be too draining. When water penetrates the sand, it drains away quickly and the plant will receive very little water. We recommend using succulent and cactus soil.
4. Succulents are Cacti, Cacti are Succulents
Succulents and cacti are not all one in the same. Most cacti are considered succulents, but there are a few that are not. Not all succulents are cacti either. These would include Echeveria, Crassula, Euphorbia, Sempervivum, Aeonium, Sedum, x Graptosedum, and Haworthia.
5. Succulents Can Handle any Weather
Different succulents call for different care. Most succulents can handle various weather conditions, but they do prefer less humid, sunny weather. They are hardier than other perennial plants in your garden, but they handle wetter and colder climates differently. A harsh winter may cause the plant to freeze and consistent humidity may lead to root rot. Just remember, succulents enjoy a bit of neglect.
6. All Succulents are not Edible
Many succulents are edible, but be aware of the plants you choose to eat. While many are harmless, some can be toxic to humans and animals if ingested, especially in large quantities. Be conscious of the toxicity of all your plants before exposing them to children or animals in your home.
7. Top Dressing Provides Extra Drainage for Succulents
Top dressing is a fun way to add texture and color to your container gardening. Just be careful that your top dressing is not trapping moisture inside the container, which causes root rot.
8. Closed, Sealed Spaces are Tolerable
Succulents need fresh air and ventilation. Your plants will not last long in closed terrariums. Moisture has no way to escape allowing mold to enter and your succulents may get root rot. Don’t put the terrarium on a full sun windowsill, as its leaves will burn.
6
6
이대강：Fhj
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Succulents are all the rage and with good reason. They are beautiful, interesting, and in most cases easy to care for. They are often used as decor both indoors and out. Succulents are living plants that require some care to survive and thrive, and while caring for them is not complex, knowing the basics will help you have the healthiest plants around.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
Succulents are a general name for any plant that has a swollen part that can hold excess water. This could occur in the leaves, stem, or even roots. Most commonly, people refer to succulents as plants with fleshy leaves, typically identified as types of Sedum, Sempervivium, Echeveria, Aeonium, and Crassula. Understanding that the word “succulents” doesn’t refer to a type of plant, but instead describes its characteristics, will help when understanding how to care for them.
Choosing Succulents
As most of the plants commonly referred to as succulents are different families, the care instructions will differ for them. The best way to learn what they need to thrive is to read the tag that comes in the plant. Succulents sold at shops that don’t specialize in plants will often not have proper labeling, so you may not even know the name or care instructions for that plant. In general though, look for:
Healthy-looking leaves with no odd discoloration, spots, or tears;
Plants that look “full” with leaves that start at the base of the plant and are closely spaced, particularly in Sempervivium and Echeveria that have a rosette-shaped pattern to the leaves.
No pests on the leaves…
…or soil. Yes, pull the plant gently out of the pot and inspect the soil. Look for signs of pests, disease, or tightly-wound roots that indicate that the plant is root-bound.
Watering
Just because these plants are drought-tolerant, doesn’t mean that they don’t need water. It simply means that they will be able to tolerate longer periods of drought. With regular watering and proper conditions succulents can be low maintenance and last for years.
When you first plant succulents water them until the soil is damp. Then, allow the soil to dry out before watering again. There is a big difference between soil drying out and drying up. Allowing the soil to feel dry to the touch is good practice, but if it has shrunk from the sides and become hard, you’ve waited too long. Rehydrate soil that has dried up by soaking the pot in a sink or tray with an inch of water for a few hours until the soil rehydrates.
Sunlight
Set succulents out in the sun for the best results. Again, keep in mind that all succulents do not come from the same family and some may require more or less sun than others. Plants that aren’t getting enough sun will get leggy. Plants that are getting too much sun will get scorched leaves.
Overwintering
If you are a lucky enough to live somewhere that winters are mild and succulents’ thrive all year, then lucky you! You will likely have plenty of huge succulents around to enjoy. For the rest of us, there is an important distinction to learn about succulents in colder climates: hardy succulents need a cold period at some point in the year to thrive, and tender succulents will die if left in the cold.
Hardy succulents like Sedum and Sempervivum are wonderful in cold-climate gardens, particularly in container. In the fall, move the containers under cover (but not indoors) and leave them alone for the winter. Next spring pull the pots out and set them in the sun. They will be back to their former glory in no time!
Tender succulents are best brought indoors for the winter. Try to find the sunniest location you can, water a bit more sparingly and remove any dead leaves as they dry up.
Tidying Up Succulents
These pretty plants can look like they have taken a beating over the winter, whether they braved it outside or inside. Hardy succulents will need the brown outer leaves removed and the soil refreshed. Tender succulents can probably use replanting as they likely got leggy searching for light indoors.
3
5
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Succulents are the perfect plant for forgetful and sometimes neglectful gardeners. They don’t require much care and are easy to grow inside as well as out. They come in a variety of colors and textures and look lovely potted or landscaped.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
Succulents are a diverse group of plants that come in many colors and shapes. There are over 20,000 varieties with kinds suited for all growing conditions. They store water in their leaves which tend to be thick and plump, although some have thinner leaves. They often grow in dry climates without much humidity. They do need to be watered, but can stand periods of drought instead pulling water that is stored in the leaves. They do not do well in wet conditions as their roots will start to rot if sitting in water for too long. Succulents often prefer warm weather can will not survive freezing temperatures. The stored water in the leaves will freeze and destroy the plant. Some species, however, can survive a freezing winter.
The most common types of succulents that you’ll be able to find are Agave, Yucca, Aloe, cacti, Sedum, Sempervivum, Echeveria, Euphorbia, and even some orchids.
Succulent Care
As with all plants the four things to consider when caring for succulents are light, water, soil, and temperature.
Light
Both indoor and outdoor succulents generally need at least 3 hours of direct sun daily. Morning sunlight would be preferable as the afternoon sun can be too harsh. Some succulents that receive too much sun may be damaged and look sunburned with scars on their leaves or a washed out color. Especially in hot climates where the sun is the most direct be sure to keep your succulents in areas with filtered sunlight.
Alternatively, succulents that don’t receive enough sun may begin to grow or reach toward the sun. The plants may begin to grow tall with the leaves more spaced out. Succulents that are colored may also turn green if not receiving enough light.
Water
Succulents are made to grow in arid climates and as a result do not need much water. They instead store their water in their leaves or stems. When watering your succulents be sure the soil is dry before you water. Soak the soil around the plant and don’t water again until the soil is completely dry. If the roots stay wet for long periods of time they may begin to rot causing the plant to rot. You will be able to tell this is occurring because the leaves will turn black and mushy and may start to grow mold. Generally, most succulents need to be watered only once a week. This will vary depending on your climate and soil conditions. If you are unsure how often to water your succulents it is better to underwater rather than overwater.
Soil
Well-draining soil is vital for succulents. This is important as too much moisture will cause the plant to rot. Unlike typical plants, succulent roots don’t absorb water through direct contact, but instead they get their water from the air. That is why well-draining soil is important. If you grow your succulents in pots, but sure the pot has drainage holes.
When planting succulents look for cactus mix potting soil. This mix is designed to drain better than regular potting soil. If you are unable to find cactus mix you can make your own by mixing 1 part stone pebbles, 1 part wood mulch, and 1 part clay pebbles. The stone pebbles don’t absorb water and create pockets in the mix for the water to drain. The mulch and clay absorb moisture and slowly releases it allowing the roots to receive water.
Temperature
Most succulents are able to tolerate a large range of temperatures if they get the right amount of sun and water. However, the more delicate succulents should not be kept in temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius) or below freezing. These are the types with really thick leaves. The extreme heat will cause them to droop when the soil gets too hot and dry and below freezing will freeze the water in their leaves.
Propagating
One of the excellent qualities of succulents is their ability to propagate easily. You can often start a new plant from leaf or a plant cutting. Some types of succulents propagate better from a cutting rather than a leaf. The succulents with the thick, fleshy leaves are best suited to leaf propagation.
The best way to remove a leaf for propagation is to gently twist the leaf from the stem. You’ll want the entire leaf so nothing should be left on the stem. For succulents that propagate best from cuttings use sharp scissors or pruning shears and cut off a stem right above a leaf. This can be either the top of the succulent, or a new shoot.
After removing the leaf or cutting you’ll want the end to dry out and scab over a bit before planting. If you plant it freshly cut it may absorb too much moisture. Depending on your climate and humidity this may take 1 to 3 days. The leaf or cutting may shrivel slightly. You’ll want to plant it before it dries out too much.
When the end of the cutting is dry it is time to plant it. The leaf does not need to be planted and instead should be laid on top of soil. Mist the cutting or leaf with water whenever the soil is dry. You do not need to soak the soil. The leaves will begin to grow tiny roots within 4 to 6 weeks. When you begin to see roots cover them with soil so they don’t dry out. Propagating new plants from leaves and cuttings is not a quick process as it may take up to a year for the new plant to be fully grown.
Identifying
Often times when you buy a succulent at the store it may not be labeled. Or it will be labeled simply as “succulent” or “succulent variety”. This can be frustrating as different succulent have different growth requirements. There are many avenues you can take to help you identify your plant. The first may be to simply ask the seller. If they are unsure you may be able to identify your succulent with a photo using an online forum.
The more difficult way to identify your succulent is to look at the characteristics of the plant such as leaf shape and growing habits.
Leaf shape
Succulents come in many shapes, sizes, and colors. The leaf shapes of succulent can vary greatly among the different kinds. Leaves are generally long and spikey or small and circular. Succulents that have long spikey leaves include Aloe vera, Agave, and Gasteria. Within the spikey-leaved category the leaves may be grass-like or fleshy. The succulents with circular leaves are rose-shaped, called rosette forming succulents. Rosette-forming, circular leaved succulents include Aeonium, Echeveria, and Graptopeltum.
Rosette type
Succulents that grow in the rosette-form feature close clusters of leaves that radiate from the center as a flower would. These leaves may be pointed or round, fleshy or grass-like. Jobivarva succulents feature rounded leaves and hen-and-chick feature pointed leaves.
Configuration
Some succulents grow in long stalks and others grow close to the ground and spread out. Succulents may change in configuration as they mature so waiting until they have aged may help in making an identification.
Plant size
The size of the plant may help you identify the plant as well as determine where it should be grown. Smaller plants, those that are just a couple inches tall and wide, may be best suited indoors. Larger plants may be best to grow outside.
Flower shape and color
Flowers are one of the easiest ways to identify a plant. If your succulent blooms pay attention to the shape, size, color, and even the time of year that it blooms. The Christmas Cactus, for example, blooms only once a year, in midwinter.
Indoor Succulents
Succulents are a popular choice for houseplants because they don’t require a lot of maintenance. A Jade Plant is a classic choice and is easy to grow. Aloe vera is also popular and can be used to treat sunburns or wounds. Burro’s Tail is a pretty plant that can add some interest to your interior. It has overlapping leaves which can reach up to 3 feet (90 cm) in length and hang over the flower pot.
Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are succulents that bloom during the holidays and offer some color during the time of year when it can be hard to find. Keep this succulent outside in a sheltered area in the summer and fall. Bring it indoors when the overnight temperatures begin to drop into the 40s. Fertilize the plant three times during the summer and keep it drier in the winter than in the spring and summer.
One of the easiest houseplants to keep is the Snake Plant. It gets its name from the shape of its leaves. This is an indestructible houseplant that strives on neglect. It grows upright and can fit into many locations in the home. There are also many varieties, some that are variegated in color, to offer many options.
Outdoor Succulents
The most common succulents you’ll find to grow outside are Yucca, Prickly Pear Cactus, and Agave. These plants are great for landscaping and can be used alone or for all of the landscape. Yucca and Agave are hardy for most of the United States.
Hen-and-chick are a type of Sempervivum and get their name from the mother plant, or the hen, that produces cluster of offsets, the chicks. They are an easy plant to grow in the sunny part of the yard. They are low-growing and are also a good choice for a houseplant. When keeping it as a houseplant be sure to let the soil dry out completely between watering.
Sedum, sometimes called Stonecrop, are a great succulent to use as groundcover as most types are low-growing. Some varieties are taller and look best in the middle of the garden. They grow well in a normal garden, but do best in drier conditions. They also grow well in full-sun or partial sun.
Planting Succulents
When planting succulents in your garden one thing you should pay attention to is the soil. If your soil is not naturally well draining you will need to mix in some sand or gravel to help the drainage. No succulents can tolerate standing water so well-drained soil is key.
To help landscape the succulents consider adding a rock garden. This is a great way to achieve a natural looking succulent garden. Rock gardens feature various sizes of rocks and help mimic many of succulents native habits helping the landscaped succulents look more natural. You can also plant the succulents in groups to help them look purposeful and avoid planting in rows which can create the effect of soldiers in a row.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
If you’ve been anywhere near Pinterest, a hobby shop or a home improvement store lately, you have probably noticed that succulents have been quite trendy for a while. These versatile plants are incredibly easy to care for. They make for stylish decor indoors and out. We’re spelling out everything you need to know about them.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are plants that store water. One of the succulents with which people are most familiar is the cactus. However, many families of plants have succulents within them. These types of plants are typically found in hot climates with low levels of precipitation. Succulents have plump areas in their leaves. These parts retain water in dry climates, allowing the plant to access moisture even when there is a lack of rainfall. Succulents can thrive even on the slightest mist.
Growing succulents has become a fashionable hobby. People trade them and talk about them endlessly in online forums. You can plant them inside the home or in an outdoor garden. Some say that they thrive on neglect. You don’t even need to plant them in soil. While succulents can grow in a container or garden, they can also grow in cracks in stones and sand. Although they’re relatively easy to grow and care for, succulents don’t like extreme cold. They also may deteriorate in wet conditions. However, they can tolerate more sun and heat than other plants. They can also endure some cold and rain.
Different Varieties
Although many people think that succulents are simply cacti, succulents are found in 60 different families of plants. Most of them belong to the following families:
Aizoaceae: Most of the plants in this family are native to Africa. However, some are found in Australia and the Pacific. Some are referred to Stone Plants or Ice Plants. The leaves of Tetragonia tetragonioides are sometimes used as an alternative to spinach in salads.
Asparagaceae: The Agave, Yucca fall into this category.
Cactaceae: The cactus is a member of this plant family. Almost all cacti are native to the Americas. Most cacti have ribbed exteriors that let the plant expand during periods of heavier watering.
Crassulaceae: This family may be the most frost-hardy variety. They add an exotic touch to any indoor or outdoor garden.
They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors. Some succulents have sharp spines on their leaves. However, others are soft and smooth or even faintly hairy.
What is a Succulent?
Succulents are plants that store water. One of the succulents with which people are most familiar is the cactus. However, many families of plants have succulents within them. These types of plants are typically found in hot climates with low levels of precipitation. Succulents have plump areas in their leaves. These parts retain water in dry climates, allowing the plant to access moisture even when there is a lack of rainfall. Succulents can thrive even on the slightest mist.
Growing succulents has become a fashionable hobby. People trade them and talk about them endlessly in online forums. You can plant them inside the home or in an outdoor garden. Some say that they thrive on neglect. You don’t even need to plant them in soil. While succulents can grow in a container or garden, they can also grow in cracks in stones and sand. Although they’re relatively easy to grow and care for, succulents don’t like extreme cold. They also may deteriorate in wet conditions. However, they can tolerate more sun and heat than other plants. They can also endure some cold and rain.
Different Varieties
Although many people think that succulents are simply cacti, succulents are found in 60 different families of plants. Most of them belong to the following families:
Aizoaceae: Most of the plants in this family are native to Africa. However, some are found in Australia and the Pacific. Some are referred to Stone Plants or Ice Plants. The leaves of Tetragonia tetragonioides are sometimes used as an alternative to spinach in salads.
Asparagaceae: The Agave, Yucca fall into this category.
Cactaceae: The cactus is a member of this plant family. Almost all cacti are native to the Americas. Most cacti have ribbed exteriors that let the plant expand during periods of heavier watering.
Crassulaceae: This family may be the most frost-hardy variety. They add an exotic touch to any indoor or outdoor garden.
They come in a wide variety of shapes and colors. Some succulents have sharp spines on their leaves. However, others are soft and smooth or even faintly hairy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
You can find succulents in just about every garden center, big box store and even the grocery store now. While these plants are relatively easy to care for, there are times when your plants may not look very healthy. Even if you have the greenest of “green thumbs” (or not) here are a few tips to help keep your succulents healthy.
1. You are Giving Them Too Much Water
Succulents don’t need to be watered like your common or typical houseplant. Well drained soil is a must…water when the soil is dry. Give your plant a thorough soaking and let the excess water drain out.
2. The Planting Container is Too Small
Did you find a cute tea cup or flower pot for your succulent? Sure it looks cute, but does it give the roots the room it needs to grow? Probably not. The depth of the container should be twice as deep as the roots of the plant, while the width should be at least three times as wide. This gives the plant plenty of room to spread out!
3. The Planting Container Doesn’t Provide Drainage
People love panting succulents in cute containers, but the truth is if they don’t have proper drainage they will never work. Your container should have several drainage holes where water can escape. A piece of net over the holes can help dirt from escaping in the process.
4. They aren’t Getting Enough Light
Succulents love warm weather and plenty of light. Not every succulent needs to be in direct sunlight all day long, be sure to know the exact light requirements of your plants. Shade is NOT good for succulents, they will loose their color and will get “leggy” stretching for the light.
5. Your Soil Isn’t Nutrient Rich
Succulents love nutrient rich soil. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering.
6. You Need to Transplant Them
If your succulent has been in a container for several months and seems to be thriving, you need to repot it into a larger container. By doing so you will give it more room to grow and it won’t get cramped and smothered by its own roots.
Are you ready to enjoy more healthy, vibrant, and ALIVE succulents? Give these 6 reasons your succulents are dying your consideration, make the changes needed, and enjoy the succulents you have always dreamed of.
1. You are Giving Them Too Much Water
Succulents don’t need to be watered like your common or typical houseplant. Well drained soil is a must…water when the soil is dry. Give your plant a thorough soaking and let the excess water drain out.
2. The Planting Container is Too Small
Did you find a cute tea cup or flower pot for your succulent? Sure it looks cute, but does it give the roots the room it needs to grow? Probably not. The depth of the container should be twice as deep as the roots of the plant, while the width should be at least three times as wide. This gives the plant plenty of room to spread out!
3. The Planting Container Doesn’t Provide Drainage
People love panting succulents in cute containers, but the truth is if they don’t have proper drainage they will never work. Your container should have several drainage holes where water can escape. A piece of net over the holes can help dirt from escaping in the process.
4. They aren’t Getting Enough Light
Succulents love warm weather and plenty of light. Not every succulent needs to be in direct sunlight all day long, be sure to know the exact light requirements of your plants. Shade is NOT good for succulents, they will loose their color and will get “leggy” stretching for the light.
5. Your Soil Isn’t Nutrient Rich
Succulents love nutrient rich soil. During the growing season, a balanced fertilizer, which has been diluted to 1/4 strength, can be added to the water for each watering.
6. You Need to Transplant Them
If your succulent has been in a container for several months and seems to be thriving, you need to repot it into a larger container. By doing so you will give it more room to grow and it won’t get cramped and smothered by its own roots.
Are you ready to enjoy more healthy, vibrant, and ALIVE succulents? Give these 6 reasons your succulents are dying your consideration, make the changes needed, and enjoy the succulents you have always dreamed of.
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