文章
Miss Chen
2022年02月13日
Huernia zebrina, commonly referred to as owl eye succulents, are a species of succulents native to South Africa that are known for their distinctive other-worldly blooms. They are characterized by 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges, and yellow and red 5-pointed, star-shaped flowers. Owl eye succulents are not large succulents, growing to only six to eight inches tall. They grow well indoors as houseplants since they generally require warm temperatures in order to thrive. Plus, if you frequently forget to water your houseplants - this is the succulent for you! They thrive on minimal moisture and can survive for several weeks at a time without water if needed.
Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa
How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on!
For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light
Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions.
Water
Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter).
Soil
In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting
The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry.
Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks.
Common Pests/Diseases
Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
Botanical Name Huernia zebrina
Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height
Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade
Soil Type Well-draining
Soil pH 6
Bloom Time Summer
Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white
Native Area South Africa
How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on!
For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light
Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions.
Water
Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter).
Soil
In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy.
Potting and Repotting
The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry.
Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents
Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks.
Common Pests/Diseases
Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2022年01月15日
The Plectranthus genus is large, with more than 350 species of annuals, perennials, semi-succulents, and shrubs from Africa, Madagascar, Asia, Australia, and Pacific Islands. Members of the genus come in a variety of colors and sizes. But the blue spur flower (Plectranthus barbatus) stands out for its large, upright bushy structure. Also known by the botanical name Coleus barbatus, this plant is native to Africa but has spread abundantly.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
These plants can grow up to five feet in size and have aggressive runners that can choke out native plants if not kept in check. However, this same destructive behavior makes them wonderful plants for creating dense garden beds. The blue spur flower features deep green foliage and sends up stalks with six to eight deep blue-to-purple flowers.
Before planting, be sure to check your area to ensure it is not an invasive pest concern. One way to avoid unwanted spreading is by planting them in containers. The Plectranthus genus does well grown in pots and can even be kept indoors.
Botanical Name Plectranthus barbatus, Coleus barbatus
Common Name Blue Spur Flower, Candlestick Plant, Speckled Spur Flower, Zulu Wonder
Plant Type Perennial
Mature Size 5 feet tall
Sun Exposure Sun to partial shade
Soil Type Rich, well-draining
Soil pH Neutral to acidic
Bloom Time Late summer to early fall
Flower Color Lavender
Hardiness Zones 9 to 11
Native Area Africa
Blue Spur Flower Care
Though it has vibrant blooms and a commanding presence, the blue spur flower is an easy-to-care-for addition to your garden. These plants thrive in dappled sunlight and well-draining soil. Try to mimic the environment of the rich forest floor and your Plectranthus barbatus will be very happy.
Because blue spur flowers are such prolific spreaders, occasional pruning is needed to help maintain a bushier, fuller plant. They are quite hardy and can withstand a wide range of temperatures. However, a deep freeze will kill these flowers, so be sure to protect them from very cold temperatures.
Light
Most blue spur flowers can tolerate full sun, but they prefer partial shade to really thrive. They are naturally found in forests or river banks with filtered light, so imitating this type of lighting will create the healthiest specimens.
For indoor lighting, place in an area with bright, indirect lighting for best results.
Soil
These vibrant flowers need rich soil like those found in the forest. Adding some organic matter or compost to your soil before planting will mimic this fertile environment. This will also help the soil to drain well and prevent problems with overwatering.
Water
The Plectranthus genus is drought resistant and, therefore, not very picky when it comes to watering. A regular watering schedule is still beneficial but resist the urge to water it constantly.
If you live in a hot, dry climate, more watering may be needed to keep it healthy. However, be sure not to overwater, as this can quickly kill your plant. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Temperature and Humidity
Consistent with its hardy nature, the blue spur flower can withstand a wide range of temperatures. It does well with heat and can also survive a frost.
As a tropical plant, a deep freeze will kill this plant though, so be sure to protect it if you have any harsh weather heading your way. One way to do this would be to bring your blue spur flower inside for the winter.
Fertilizer
The Plectranthus family is quite hardy and does not require frequent fertilizing to maintain a full and healthy plant. Adding organic material and compost to the soil before planting will provide its nutrition needs. If you would like to encourage growth and flowering, a general fertilizer will do the job nicely.
Potting and Repotting
The blue spur flower does quite well in pots and can even be brought inside during harsh winters to be kept as a houseplant. If you would like to keep this plant in a pot, make sure you choose one with good drainage.
Since these plants are drought-tolerant, they do not like to sit in water. Too much water can quickly kill them. This makes drainage holes a must.
Propagating Blue Spur Flower
The blue spur flower is an aggressive spreader. It does this by sending out offshoots under the soil. To propagate, you can simply dig up some of these offshoots and move the divided plant to its new area.
Another option for propagation is by using stem cuttings. The cuttings root easily in soil and can be grown without much hassle. Here’s how:
1. Using sharp garden snips or scissors, cut a section from your plant that is a few inches in length.
2. Remove the bottom leaves.
3. Place your cutting in damp soil. Keep moist while rooting.
Your new Plectranthus should take root rather quickly, and, before you know it, you will have another thriving plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月28日
The baseball plant (Euphorbia obesa) is a succulent perennial that is native to the Cape Province of South Africa. Since its discovery during the late 1800s, baseball plants have exploded in popularity as houseplants due to their unique appearance and low-maintenance needs. Though baseball plants are actually considered an endangered species in their native habitat due to unsustainable harvesting, they can easily be found in garden centers. Today, national and international legislation that prohibits harvesting baseball plants has been enacted in an effort to protect the remaining native populations of baseball plants.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
These long-lived, slow-growing succulents are characterized by bulbous shape, V-shaped markings, and seam-like ridges that resemble stitching. Rather than branches or leaves, the plant consists of a single wide stem body from which the flowers sprout. Young baseball plants are round in shape but become more elongated and cylindrically shaped with maturity. Baseball plants are also called sea urchin plants since they loosely resemble that creature.
The plants are dioecious, with either male or female flowers that are yellow in color and rather insignificant in appearance. To produce seeds, the female flowers must be cross-pollinated by a male plant, and for this reason, the plant is rarely propagated by seed except in the nursery trade.
Botanical Name Euphorbia obesa
Common Name Baseball plant, sea urchin plant
Plant Type Succulent perennial
Mature Size 7 to 8 inches tall, up to 4 inches wide
Sun Exposure Bright, direct light; tolerates some shade
Soil Type Well-draining cactus/succulent potting mix
Soil pH 6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Bloom Time Summer (flowers are fairly insignificant)
Flower Color Grayish-green
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA); grown as houseplants in all zones
Native Area South Africa
Toxicity Mildly toxic
Baseball Plant Care
Baseball plants are relatively easy plants to care for as long as their light and water requirements are met. They thrive if grown in a standard coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents and placed in a location that receives plenty of sunlight or at constant bright indirect light. They are slow-growing plants that can be allowed to fill their pots before repotting becomes necessary. Few houseplants require less care than baseball plants.
Baseball plants do not produce leaves or foliage but they do produce small, fragrant flowers in the summer months. The tough stem structures are largely impervious to pest and disease problems, but if overwatered or allowed to soak in water, the roots may develop rot.
Light
In their native habitat, baseball plants are accustomed to plenty of bright, direct sunlight. When grown indoors, baseball plants should receive at least four hours of direct sunlight a day if possible. Loss of color and pattern, as well as a loss of shape, are all indications that your baseball plant is not receiving enough light; etiolated ("leggy") growth is another indication. Place your baseball plant in a south or east-facing window in your home to ensure it receives adequate sunlight.
Soil
Baseball plants require coarse, well-draining potting soil in order to thrive and should be planted in a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents. Cactus soil is available at most commercial nurseries and garden centers, but if you don’t have one readily available you can easily make your own by mixing 3 parts regular potting soil, 2 parts coarse sand, and 1 part perlite.
Water
Baseball plants, like most succulents and cacti, do not tolerate overwatering. Water the plant only when the soil is thoroughly dry. Baseball plants require more water during the spring and summer months, and significantly less water during their dormant period in the fall and winter months.
Temperature and Humidity
Baseball plants appreciate warm temperatures. When grown inside, the average household temperature is more than sufficient. However, be careful to avoid placing your baseball plant in areas with cold drafts, as it can inhibit growth. If grown outdoors, they can tolerate occasional temperatures down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Fertilizer
As with most succulents, baseball plants do not require regular fertilization, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. However, fertilizing your baseball plant during the spring can help it to thrive during its peak growing season. Be sure to use a cactus/succulent fertilizer for the best results.
Propagating Baseball Plant
Like other species of Euphorbia, baseball plant is difficult to propagate from seeds, since male and female plants require cross-pollination in order to produce seeds. Further, the seeds are very slow-growing.
Euphorbias such as E. obesa, which have a single stem structure rather than individual branches, are normally propagated by first decapitating the plant at soil level. When small new growth structures emerge around the remaining root body, each new offset can be carefully cut away and replanted in coarse cactus/succulent planting mix. These are quite -growing plants that can take as much as eight years before they mature into flowering plants.
Potting and Repotting
Baseball plants do well in any coarse potting mix formulated for cactus and succulents. They do not require frequent repotting, and should only be repotted once the circumference of the plant is pushing against the edge of the pot. Protective gardening gloves should be worn at all times while repotting baseball plants as their sap can irritate the skin upon contact.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年09月16日
These adorable succulents truly live up to their nickname: Baby toes succulents (Fenestraria rhopalophylla) are small, clump-forming succulents that are native to Namibia and South Africa. They are classified as window-leafed succulents because the top of their tube-shaped leaves are transparent due to a lack of green pigment that allows light to pass through the thick, fleshy tubes. Adding to their attractive nature, these succulents produce delicate white or yellow flowers in the spring and fall.
Botanical Name Fenestraria rhopalophylla
Common Name Baby Toes, Baby's Toes, Window Plant
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 3 inches tall
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Yellow, white
Hardiness Zones 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b
Native Area Namibia and South Africa
Toxicity Toxicity to pets is widely debated; exercise caution
Baby Toes Succulent Care
Baby toes succulents require typical succulent care: full sun and infrequent watering. If you can provide these heat-loving succulents with enough sunlight, they are relatively low-maintenance. The active growing period for baby toes succulents is the fall, winter, and spring, and they are dormant in the summer months.
Light
Baby toes succulents require full sun when they are grown indoors and outdoors. Ideally, they should receive at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day to encourage healthy growth and prevent legginess. If you are growing baby toes succulents indoors, you might need to provide a grow light to ensure they are receiving enough light throughout the day.
Soil
These succulents are susceptible to overwatering and should be planted in a well-draining, sandy soil mixture to help control moisture around the roots. A cactus or succulent soil mix is ideal and can be found at most nurseries and garden centers. You can also make succulent soil at home by mixing one part regular potting soil, one part perlite, and one part sand.
Water
Baby toes succulents are drought-tolerant and do not require frequent watering. The soak and dry watering method is ideal. Allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings and then water deeply until water streams out of the drainage holes of the pot. Baby toes succulents are dormant in the summer so water them sparingly during summer to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These desert-dwelling succulents are hardy in USDA zones 10a to 11b. They appreciate hot, dry climates and do not tolerate frost. If you are growing these succulents outdoors in a climate that experiences cold winters, it is best to grow them in containers so that they can be moved indoors for the winter.
Fertilizer
Be careful not to over-fertilize baby toes succulents because they are sensitive to fertilizer burn. These succulents can tolerate poor-quality soils and do not require regular fertilization. However, you can lightly fertilize them at the beginning of the growing season with a low-strength, balanced fertilizer to help encourage strong growth. Avoid fertilizing baby toes succulents during their dormant period.
Propagating Baby Toes Succulents
These succulents grow pups similar to haworthias and aloe veras and can be readily propagated by division. Baby toes succulents can also be grown from seed, however, the seed is extremely hard to find from a reputable seller so it is easier to propagate from an established plant.
It is best to divide baby toes succulents while you are repotting them because you will need to divide the roots as well. Once the roots are exposed, gently divide offsets from the mother plant by teasing the roots away from the root ball. The offsets should have their own set of established roots, which will allow you to replant them immediately.
Potting and Repotting Baby Toes Succulents
Baby toes succulents are slow-growing and do not require regular repotting. Repot only when the plant has outgrown its container. When choosing a new container, keep in mind that the pot should have adequate drainage to prevent root rot. Also, keep in mind that baby toes succulents have shallow root systems and do not require a deep container.
When repotting a baby toes succulent, be careful not to break any of the delicate roots or accidentally separate the plant. Gently loosen any compacted soil around the roots and fill the new container with fresh potting soil formulated for succulents. Thoroughly water the freshly repotted baby toes succulent.
Common Pests and Diseases
As with most succulents, baby toes succulents are not bothered by many pests or diseases. However, common pests such as mealybugs, scale, or aphids can be a problem for these fleshy-leaved succulents. Baby toes succulents are sensitive to root rot so ensure that the soil drains well and that containers have adequate drainage to prevent the roots from becoming waterlogged.
Botanical Name Fenestraria rhopalophylla
Common Name Baby Toes, Baby's Toes, Window Plant
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 3 inches tall
Sun Exposure Full
Soil Type Sandy, well-drained
Soil pH Acidic
Bloom Time Spring, fall
Flower Color Yellow, white
Hardiness Zones 10a, 10b, 11a, 11b
Native Area Namibia and South Africa
Toxicity Toxicity to pets is widely debated; exercise caution
Baby Toes Succulent Care
Baby toes succulents require typical succulent care: full sun and infrequent watering. If you can provide these heat-loving succulents with enough sunlight, they are relatively low-maintenance. The active growing period for baby toes succulents is the fall, winter, and spring, and they are dormant in the summer months.
Light
Baby toes succulents require full sun when they are grown indoors and outdoors. Ideally, they should receive at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day to encourage healthy growth and prevent legginess. If you are growing baby toes succulents indoors, you might need to provide a grow light to ensure they are receiving enough light throughout the day.
Soil
These succulents are susceptible to overwatering and should be planted in a well-draining, sandy soil mixture to help control moisture around the roots. A cactus or succulent soil mix is ideal and can be found at most nurseries and garden centers. You can also make succulent soil at home by mixing one part regular potting soil, one part perlite, and one part sand.
Water
Baby toes succulents are drought-tolerant and do not require frequent watering. The soak and dry watering method is ideal. Allow the soil to dry thoroughly between waterings and then water deeply until water streams out of the drainage holes of the pot. Baby toes succulents are dormant in the summer so water them sparingly during summer to prevent root rot.
Temperature and Humidity
These desert-dwelling succulents are hardy in USDA zones 10a to 11b. They appreciate hot, dry climates and do not tolerate frost. If you are growing these succulents outdoors in a climate that experiences cold winters, it is best to grow them in containers so that they can be moved indoors for the winter.
Fertilizer
Be careful not to over-fertilize baby toes succulents because they are sensitive to fertilizer burn. These succulents can tolerate poor-quality soils and do not require regular fertilization. However, you can lightly fertilize them at the beginning of the growing season with a low-strength, balanced fertilizer to help encourage strong growth. Avoid fertilizing baby toes succulents during their dormant period.
Propagating Baby Toes Succulents
These succulents grow pups similar to haworthias and aloe veras and can be readily propagated by division. Baby toes succulents can also be grown from seed, however, the seed is extremely hard to find from a reputable seller so it is easier to propagate from an established plant.
It is best to divide baby toes succulents while you are repotting them because you will need to divide the roots as well. Once the roots are exposed, gently divide offsets from the mother plant by teasing the roots away from the root ball. The offsets should have their own set of established roots, which will allow you to replant them immediately.
Potting and Repotting Baby Toes Succulents
Baby toes succulents are slow-growing and do not require regular repotting. Repot only when the plant has outgrown its container. When choosing a new container, keep in mind that the pot should have adequate drainage to prevent root rot. Also, keep in mind that baby toes succulents have shallow root systems and do not require a deep container.
When repotting a baby toes succulent, be careful not to break any of the delicate roots or accidentally separate the plant. Gently loosen any compacted soil around the roots and fill the new container with fresh potting soil formulated for succulents. Thoroughly water the freshly repotted baby toes succulent.
Common Pests and Diseases
As with most succulents, baby toes succulents are not bothered by many pests or diseases. However, common pests such as mealybugs, scale, or aphids can be a problem for these fleshy-leaved succulents. Baby toes succulents are sensitive to root rot so ensure that the soil drains well and that containers have adequate drainage to prevent the roots from becoming waterlogged.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月26日
The African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona) is native to Central Africa. It is often grown as a hedge there, useful for its rapid and enthusiastic growth, though its roots are not invasive. Though it looks a lot like a cactus, it is actually a succulent plant. It has many folk names, including candelabra cactus, cathedral cactus, friendship cactus, good luck plant. or good luck cactus (the good luck attribution is probably due to how quickly it grows, and how easily it propagates). It stays lush and green throughout its growing season, and new growth has a lighter green color than the base plant. The Rubra or Royal Red cultivar is very popular for its dramatic coloring: it takes on bright red accents later in the season.
Botanical Name Euphorbia trigona
Common Name African Milk Tree, African Milk Bush
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6 to 8 ft.
Sun Exposure Indirect sun to partial shade
Soil Type Medium rich, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.8 (mildly acidic to mildly alkaline)
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White (outdoors only)
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Central Africa
Toxicity Sap toxic
African Milk Tree Care
The African milk tree is long-lived and can grow very vigorously, up to two feet a year in height, to a total of eight feet tall. It is fairly easy to propagate also, similar to a cactus, where one simply breaks off one of the "arms" and roots in potting medium. They're grown by many gardeners in states with arid climates where the temperatures at night don't go below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, such as parts of Texas, Arkansas, and Arizona. It's hardy in Zones 9b through 11 in the United States, and can probably survive to Zone 8 with winter protection.
The African milk tree is also popular as a decorative landscape or container plant throughout South America, and in the Mediterranean regions of Europe. Its dramatic size makes it a sought after plant for plant enthusiasts, and they may require training through pruning and staking. The African milk tree is also very drought-tolerant and useful for xeriscaping. Because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small root system, they can topple over, so be sure to keep them pruned and use staking when needed.
Light
This succulent likes indirect but bright sunlight. A southern-facing window will work well for it indoors or an outdoor spot with partial sun. Full sun is suitable as long as the summers are not too consistently hot. Extra watering may be needed to offset too much bright sunlight.
Soil
This plant is not too fussy about soil but good drainage is essential. Heavy clay soils may hamper growth, and impede drainage. Since this plant is a good choice for xeriscaping, sandy soils are a good fit, and sandy loam probably works best of all.
Water
Being a succulent, the African milk tree doesn't need much water. If there is a very bad drought, consider supplemental watering at the roots. But otherwise normal rainfall should be sufficient. Indoor specimens should be watered moderately once a week. Let the soil dry out between each watering to mimic its natural habitat.
Temperature and Humidity
This drought-tolerant plant enjoys a dry or arid climate, and can tolerate fairly hot temperatures. If grown in a place with very hot summers, the plant should be located in a spot with indirect sunlight or partial shade, to avoid overheating. This plant doesn't need any extra humidity, and growing it in an environment that is too humid may cause issues such as fungus or pests.
Fertilizer
During the plant's growing season in the spring and summer, treat it to water-soluble fertilizer once a month.
Is African Milk Tree Toxic?
The milky white sap responsible for this plant's common name is also a skin irritant, as well as an oral toxin, so handle the plant carefully and wear gloves. All parts of this plant are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. Wear protective gloves and wash hands when handling this plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant or sap, skin and/or eyes may experience burning, redness, blisters, and swelling. Sap in the eyes can cause conjunctivitis. Ingestion of the sap irritates lips, tongue, and throat. Wash skin and rinse eyes of the sap immediately. If symptoms are severe, immediately seek medical assistance.
Pruning
African milk trees don't always require pruning. But because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small, shallow root system, it's not unusual for them to become top-heavy or to even topple over, so pruning may be necessary. Use a sharp and sterilized knife to prune stems. The cut will dry over and create a callus on its own. Make sure the plant is balanced on both sides because a shallow root system can't always hold down a plant that's too heavy on one side.
Propagating African Milk Tree
The African milk tree propagates easily. You only need a pair of scissors or hand pruners, and a container with potting medium. Use proper protective gear when propagating, like heavy gloves, and wash immediately if you get any of the milky sap on your skin. Here are the easy steps:
Cut one of the "arms" off with sharp shears or scissors at its base.
Rinse the arm with running cold water until it stops oozing.
Let the arm sit in a dry spot on a paper towel and out of direct sun for five to seven days so the cut tip can callus over (this prevents rotting). (Note: Many growers bypass the callus stage and put the cutting directly into soil as soon as it is cut. Growth should occur within three weeks with this method.)
Once the callus has formed, then you can plant it in a small pot (about 4-inches wide).
Plant the cutting so it sits about an inch below the soil.
Add a layer of course gravel on top of the soil to help keep the cutting stay upright.
Place the pot in a warm area with a temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be well-lit but out of the direct sun.
The cutting should root within two months.
As soon as you see growth, transplant the plant into a slightly larger, 6-inch pot.
How to Grow African Milk Tree From Seed
Though you can grow the plant from seeds, it's not typically recommended. The seeds can be difficult to find and they are even more difficult and slow to germinate. It's better to propagate the plant using cuttings. If you do find seeds, plant them in well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting African Milk Tree
Good drainage and reducing the risk of overwatering this plant are important considerations when potting and repotting. The African milk tree will do best in a porous clay pot that absorbs water. Avoid glazed pots that don't absorb water very well, which adds to the risk of overwatering the plant. A sandy soil or potting mix formulated for succulents allows for better water drainage. Add pumice or perlite to the potting soil, as well, to aid drainage.
Repotting the plant every year or two into a larger pot as it continues to grow taller will ensure that there's enough room for the roots to hold the plant in place, though potentially with a little staking help. It may take two people to repot a very large African milk tree so that the plant is not damaged in the process. Wear protective gear and gloves when working with this plant.
Overwintering
African milk trees won't survive the cold. They typically won't flourish if temperatures go below 50 or 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
If the tree is potted, bring it indoors. Place it in a room with good air circulation to cut down on humidity. Set it near a brightly lit window, but one with indirect sunlight.
Common Pests & Diseases
The African milk tree is usually not problematic with pests or diseases. However, watch for cotton-like threads made by mealybugs on African milk trees. To remove them, mix a solution of water and a few drops of mild dish detergent. Wipe the bugs off with a cloth dipped in the solution. You can also use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove the bugs. Outdoors, spray bugs off the plant with the garden hose.
Overwatering can cause fungal problems, such as cork disease. The stems will develop cork-like patches. Try saving the plant by cutting off the stems with these patches. Yellowing or browning of the plant may also indicate root rot from overwatering. You will likely need to dispose of the plant.
Botanical Name Euphorbia trigona
Common Name African Milk Tree, African Milk Bush
Plant Type Succulent
Mature Size 6 to 8 ft.
Sun Exposure Indirect sun to partial shade
Soil Type Medium rich, well-drained
Soil pH 6.1 to 7.8 (mildly acidic to mildly alkaline)
Bloom Time Spring, Summer
Flower Color White (outdoors only)
Hardiness Zones 9b to 11 (USDA)
Native Areas Central Africa
Toxicity Sap toxic
African Milk Tree Care
The African milk tree is long-lived and can grow very vigorously, up to two feet a year in height, to a total of eight feet tall. It is fairly easy to propagate also, similar to a cactus, where one simply breaks off one of the "arms" and roots in potting medium. They're grown by many gardeners in states with arid climates where the temperatures at night don't go below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, such as parts of Texas, Arkansas, and Arizona. It's hardy in Zones 9b through 11 in the United States, and can probably survive to Zone 8 with winter protection.
The African milk tree is also popular as a decorative landscape or container plant throughout South America, and in the Mediterranean regions of Europe. Its dramatic size makes it a sought after plant for plant enthusiasts, and they may require training through pruning and staking. The African milk tree is also very drought-tolerant and useful for xeriscaping. Because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small root system, they can topple over, so be sure to keep them pruned and use staking when needed.
Light
This succulent likes indirect but bright sunlight. A southern-facing window will work well for it indoors or an outdoor spot with partial sun. Full sun is suitable as long as the summers are not too consistently hot. Extra watering may be needed to offset too much bright sunlight.
Soil
This plant is not too fussy about soil but good drainage is essential. Heavy clay soils may hamper growth, and impede drainage. Since this plant is a good choice for xeriscaping, sandy soils are a good fit, and sandy loam probably works best of all.
Water
Being a succulent, the African milk tree doesn't need much water. If there is a very bad drought, consider supplemental watering at the roots. But otherwise normal rainfall should be sufficient. Indoor specimens should be watered moderately once a week. Let the soil dry out between each watering to mimic its natural habitat.
Temperature and Humidity
This drought-tolerant plant enjoys a dry or arid climate, and can tolerate fairly hot temperatures. If grown in a place with very hot summers, the plant should be located in a spot with indirect sunlight or partial shade, to avoid overheating. This plant doesn't need any extra humidity, and growing it in an environment that is too humid may cause issues such as fungus or pests.
Fertilizer
During the plant's growing season in the spring and summer, treat it to water-soluble fertilizer once a month.
Is African Milk Tree Toxic?
The milky white sap responsible for this plant's common name is also a skin irritant, as well as an oral toxin, so handle the plant carefully and wear gloves. All parts of this plant are toxic to humans and animals if ingested. Wear protective gloves and wash hands when handling this plant.
Symptoms of Poisoning
If humans or animals ingest any part of the plant or sap, skin and/or eyes may experience burning, redness, blisters, and swelling. Sap in the eyes can cause conjunctivitis. Ingestion of the sap irritates lips, tongue, and throat. Wash skin and rinse eyes of the sap immediately. If symptoms are severe, immediately seek medical assistance.
Pruning
African milk trees don't always require pruning. But because they grow so tall, but have a comparatively small, shallow root system, it's not unusual for them to become top-heavy or to even topple over, so pruning may be necessary. Use a sharp and sterilized knife to prune stems. The cut will dry over and create a callus on its own. Make sure the plant is balanced on both sides because a shallow root system can't always hold down a plant that's too heavy on one side.
Propagating African Milk Tree
The African milk tree propagates easily. You only need a pair of scissors or hand pruners, and a container with potting medium. Use proper protective gear when propagating, like heavy gloves, and wash immediately if you get any of the milky sap on your skin. Here are the easy steps:
Cut one of the "arms" off with sharp shears or scissors at its base.
Rinse the arm with running cold water until it stops oozing.
Let the arm sit in a dry spot on a paper towel and out of direct sun for five to seven days so the cut tip can callus over (this prevents rotting). (Note: Many growers bypass the callus stage and put the cutting directly into soil as soon as it is cut. Growth should occur within three weeks with this method.)
Once the callus has formed, then you can plant it in a small pot (about 4-inches wide).
Plant the cutting so it sits about an inch below the soil.
Add a layer of course gravel on top of the soil to help keep the cutting stay upright.
Place the pot in a warm area with a temperature of between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be well-lit but out of the direct sun.
The cutting should root within two months.
As soon as you see growth, transplant the plant into a slightly larger, 6-inch pot.
How to Grow African Milk Tree From Seed
Though you can grow the plant from seeds, it's not typically recommended. The seeds can be difficult to find and they are even more difficult and slow to germinate. It's better to propagate the plant using cuttings. If you do find seeds, plant them in well-draining soil.
Potting and Repotting African Milk Tree
Good drainage and reducing the risk of overwatering this plant are important considerations when potting and repotting. The African milk tree will do best in a porous clay pot that absorbs water. Avoid glazed pots that don't absorb water very well, which adds to the risk of overwatering the plant. A sandy soil or potting mix formulated for succulents allows for better water drainage. Add pumice or perlite to the potting soil, as well, to aid drainage.
Repotting the plant every year or two into a larger pot as it continues to grow taller will ensure that there's enough room for the roots to hold the plant in place, though potentially with a little staking help. It may take two people to repot a very large African milk tree so that the plant is not damaged in the process. Wear protective gear and gloves when working with this plant.
Overwintering
African milk trees won't survive the cold. They typically won't flourish if temperatures go below 50 or 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
If the tree is potted, bring it indoors. Place it in a room with good air circulation to cut down on humidity. Set it near a brightly lit window, but one with indirect sunlight.
Common Pests & Diseases
The African milk tree is usually not problematic with pests or diseases. However, watch for cotton-like threads made by mealybugs on African milk trees. To remove them, mix a solution of water and a few drops of mild dish detergent. Wipe the bugs off with a cloth dipped in the solution. You can also use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to remove the bugs. Outdoors, spray bugs off the plant with the garden hose.
Overwatering can cause fungal problems, such as cork disease. The stems will develop cork-like patches. Try saving the plant by cutting off the stems with these patches. Yellowing or browning of the plant may also indicate root rot from overwatering. You will likely need to dispose of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月21日
The Aerangis genus comprises many tropical orchids which can be distinguished by their lovely white, star-shaped flowers. The genus contains about 50 plants, and though they mostly originate in tropical regions of Africa, a few are also native to the islands of the Indian ocean. Aerangis orchids, though uncommon in cultivation, are not overly difficult to grow, even by novices. However, they don't react well to sudden environmental changes, and like all orchids, plants are often lost to sudden changes in temperature or humidity.
Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus.
Botanical Name Aerangis spp.
Common Name Aerangis orchids
Plant Type Epiphytic orchids
Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light
Soil Type Orchid potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aerangis Orchid Care
As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels.
Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants.
Light
These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day.
Soil
A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants.
Water
Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.
These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water).
Fertilizer
Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter.
Aerangis Orchid Varieties
One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”.
Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta.
Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants.
Potting and Repotting
Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids
These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment.
Common Pests/Diseases
Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions.
Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed.
Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
Typically, these orchids are epiphytes—plants that grow attached to trees rather than in soil—and they’re often grown in hanging baskets filled with bark chip/ sphagnum moss mixture. The best and most distinctive feature of an Aerangis plant is its waxy flowers, which are usually white or yellow and shaped like five-pointed stars. Not only do these flowers give off a pleasant aroma, but they also bloom with regularity.
A single Aerangis specimen can bear many flowers at once. Their leaves are evergreen, and their spurs contain nectar that is pleasing to birds. Despite their relative rarity, several species of Aerangis plants, such as A. citrata, are sometimes grown by hobbyists, and there are also a few hybrids available to orchid aficionados and botanical experts. Gardeners who can mimic the tropical conditions in which the Aerangis orchid thrives will want to consider this understated and pleasant genus.
Botanical Name Aerangis spp.
Common Name Aerangis orchids
Plant Type Epiphytic orchids
Mature Size 6–24 inches (varies by species)
Sun Exposure Part sun, bright filtered light
Soil Type Orchid potting mix
Soil pH 5.5 to 6.0 (acidic)
Bloom Time Spring to fall (varies by species)
Flower Color White, yellow
Hardiness Zones 10–11 (USDA)
Native Area Tropical Africa, Madagascar
Toxicity Non-toxic
Aerangis Orchid Care
As is true of most tropical orchids, successfully growing Aerangis plants depends on maintaining a proper balance of the various elements on which they depend. They need a well-aerated environment, lots of sunlight, and lots of moisture in the air. Remember to feed them regularly, and if their blooms are insufficient you can always increase the fertilizer levels.
Aerangis plants are especially well-suited to grow vertically on a hard surface, so certainly consider mounting your plant if you grow one. These are fairly simple orchids that beginners should be able to grow with a little effort; just watch out for common orchid pests, like scale and aphids, that may prey on your plants.
Light
These tropical orchids need lots of bright indirect light in order to thrive, but they don't care for direct sunlight. They prefer a bit more shade than other orchids, and the best environment will simulate the light of an open location location on a brightly overcast day.
Soil
A well-draining epiphyte mix is best, such as chopped sphagnum moss with styrofoam or wood chips. A standard orchid mix works well when growing these plants in hanging baskets. Good drainage is essential, as standing water will kill these plants.
Water
Aerangis orchids need a very moist environment, especially when grown epiphytically. Keep them well-watered at all times. A thorough misting every day is often required.
Temperature and Humidity
These plants require warm tropical temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are not frost-tolerant, and they don't react well to sudden changes in temperature. In native locations, many of these species grow at higher altitudes in tropical zones, so they don't necessarily need the deep heat of jungle bottomlands. Nighttime temps in the 50- to 60-degree range and daytime temps from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.
These plants like humidity levels of at least 75 percent, so they will grow best in a greenhouse or terrarium environment. If grown in an open environment, plan on misting them every day with room-temperature water (not cold water).
Fertilizer
Feed regularly with a balanced, diluted fertilizer during the growing season in spring and summer. Their fertilizer can be scaled back during the dormant season in fall and winter.
Aerangis Orchid Varieties
One relatively popular Aerangis is A. citrata, a variant from Madagascar with yellowish flowers. It’s from those flowers that it derives its name, which means “lemon-colored”.
Some other popular species include A. articulata, A. biloba, A. fastuosa, A. flabellifolia, A. mystacidii, and A. somasticta.
Also popular with collectors are the several hybrids, developed by crossing Aerangis with other orchid genera—the Aerangis genus hybridizes easily with Angraecum, Aeranthes, and several other orchid variants.
Potting and Repotting
Many people mount Aerangis plants on a sheer, vertical surface, like cork or hardwood. If you choose to grow your plants this way, repotting them won’t be necessary. However, they are often grown hanging baskets filled with a typical orchid mix that blends sphagnum moss and fine wood chips. In this case, it’s a good idea to change out the container once every few years. Lift the plant as a whole and try not to damage its root systems, which are fairly fragile.
Propagating Aerangis Orchids
These epiphytes can be propagated by division. Cut away a large section from the stem and replant it in warm, moist conditions. Many gardeners cover new divisions with bags in order to seal in moisture, and you can also treat the cuttings with rooting hormone. Be patient: It can take a little while for tropical orchids to root in a new environment.
Common Pests/Diseases
Orchids can be temperamental plants, susceptible to many pests and diseases, which are more likely to occur when plants are in less-than-ideal cultural conditions.
Mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are common pests, best treated by dabbing them with a swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.
Fungal or bacterial leaf spots often occur when the plant is too wet or too cold. Affected spots on leaves should be carefully cut away with a razor blade, with the cut edges of the leaves treated with a fungicide powder. These plants have sparse foliage, so this is usually not a difficult task. Viral infections can cause serious distortion of leaves, and affected plants will need to be destroyed.
Flower bud drop can be caused by too much or too little water, or temps that are too low or too high. Getting these conditions just right is the biggest challenge when growing orchids.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月08日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe arborescens is a species of flowering succulent perennial plant endemic to the south eastern part of Southern Africa. Aloe arborescens has adapted to many different habitats, its natural habitat usually consists of mountainous areas including rocky outcrops and exposed ridges. Its habitat can vary and is one of only a few species of aloe that is found growing from sea level up to the tops of mountains.
Description: Aloe arborescens can grow to 2m (6.5 feet) tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth-edged leaves which are 15-22cm (6-7 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two or three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.
Houseplant care: Aloe arborescens is an easy to grow houseplant as long as the light requirements are met.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe arborescens. They do well in full sunlight. No Aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe arborescens grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Water: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Aloe arborescens should be moved into one size larger pot every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year.
Propagation: Offsets can be taken from the base of the plant in early summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation purposes.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem and these root more easily than the rosettes which are higher up.
Offsets will root in two or three weeks in the standard potting mixture is some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the mixture to drying out between waterings.
Problems:
Melly bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of the rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Use an insecticide soap or make one from dish detergent (free of perfumes and additives if it is possible) mixed in a week concentration with water and spay the plants. After treatment washing the plant is recommended. Alternatively, use an adequate pesticide. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
Uses: Grown in containers, Aloe arborescens make a remarkable houseplant or installed on porches, patios, decks, etc.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 1.8-2.4m (6-8 feet)
Wide: 1.2m (4 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – Low
Hardiness zones: 9b-11
Description: Aloe arborescens can grow to 2m (6.5 feet) tall; only young plants are suitable for use indoors. The narrow, tooth-edged leaves which are 15-22cm (6-7 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, form a loose rosette on the end of a bare woody stem. Offsets normally appear around the base when plants are two or three years old. Red flowers may be produced at the top of a long branched stem.
Houseplant care: Aloe arborescens is an easy to grow houseplant as long as the light requirements are met.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe arborescens. They do well in full sunlight. No Aloe will thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe arborescens grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Water: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the mixture from drying out.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Aloe arborescens should be moved into one size larger pot every spring. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top-dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year.
Propagation: Offsets can be taken from the base of the plant in early summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation purposes.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape. Plants that have a rosette of leaves on a long stem are likely to produce additional small rosettes low down on the stem and these root more easily than the rosettes which are higher up.
Offsets will root in two or three weeks in the standard potting mixture is some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should have bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered sparingly, only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the mixture to drying out between waterings.
Problems:
Melly bugs and root mealy bugs can be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of the rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Use an insecticide soap or make one from dish detergent (free of perfumes and additives if it is possible) mixed in a week concentration with water and spay the plants. After treatment washing the plant is recommended. Alternatively, use an adequate pesticide. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
Uses: Grown in containers, Aloe arborescens make a remarkable houseplant or installed on porches, patios, decks, etc.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 1.8-2.4m (6-8 feet)
Wide: 1.2m (4 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – Low
Hardiness zones: 9b-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月07日
Distribution and habitat: Crassula ovata is native to South Africa where it grows on rocky hillsides under the blazing sun. Rain there is infrequent and usually occurs during the winter months. Consequently, Crassula ovata plants flower during the late winter.
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月04日
Distribution and habitat: Crassula ovata is native to South Africa where it grows on rocky hillsides under the blazing sun. Rain there is infrequent and usually occurs during the winter months. Consequently, Crassula ovata plants flower during the late winter.
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
In addition with its adaptation of reducing the water loss, having succulent water-storing stems, leaves and swollen roots that give it the ability to survive droughts, Crassula ovata can also survive being grazed, trodden on or knocked over, as it is able to root from any piece of stem or even from a single leaf.
Description: Crassula ovata is a large well-branched, compact, rounded, evergreen shrub 1-3m (3-10 feet) tall with glossy, dark grey-green, oval, succulent leaves and rounded heads of pink flowers in winter-spring. The stem is stout and gnarled and gives the impression of great age and its branches are also short and stubby, but well-proportioned. Branches are succulent, grey-green in colour and in older specimens the bark peels in horizontal brownish strips. Trunks to 15cm (6 inch) in diameter can develop on older plants.
The leaves are 3-9cm (1-3.5 inch) long and 2-4cm (0.8-1.5 inch) wide, egg-shaped to elliptic, often with a red margin and a somewhat pointed end. They are in opposite pairs, the one pair arranged at right angles to the next, and they are clustered towards the ends of the branches, but they may grow for many years without blooming. When flowers appear, the bush is covered in masses of sweetly scented, pretty pale-pink, star-shaped flowers in tight rounded bunches during the cool winter months. The flowers develop into small capsules, each holding many tiny seeds.
Houseplant care: Crassula ovata plants make an ideal house plant as they can cope with dry conditions and can survive being neglected.
Cleanliness is important for the health and good appearance of the plant. All dead leaves and stems should be removed. Clean the leaves of the plant monthly using room temperature water. Do not use leaf shiners or oils to clean the leaves of Crassula ovata.
Light: Crassula ovata plants need bright light with some direct sun light. A sunny windowsill will be an ideal position for these plants. They will not flower without sunlight and inadequate light will cause developing spindly growth.
Temperature: Crassula ovata plants grow well in warm position during the active growing period, but they need cool temperatures during winter rest period when they should not be subjected to temperatures above 12°C (54°F) and they can tolerate temperatures down to 7°C (45°F).
Give ventilation in summer and stand outside when conditions are favourable for Crassula ovata plants – enough hot and sunny.
Watering: Water regularly and thoroughly during the spring and summer, but avoid overwatering; allow two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out in between waterings. Little and often is the watering rule for these plants. Keep on the dry side in winter, particularly when conditions are cool; the leaves will have stored a good deal of the previous summer moisture and will be in little danger of suffering from dehydration.
Feeding: Give very week liquid fertiliser once a fortnight during the spring and summer. Do not fertilise during the rest period.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture of three parts of soil based potting mixture to one part coarse sand or perlite. Crassula ovata should be moved into pots one size larger only once every two years. It will require a maximum pot or small tub size of 20 or 25cm (8-10 inch). At this point, top-dress the plant each spring with fresh potting mixture.
Shallow pots are best for these plants. These plants tend to have shallow root systems and often become top heavy. In such cases, use heavy clay pots.
To maintain a plant at about the same size, treat in a similar way to a bonsai tree. Prune the roots when re-potting into the same size pot and cut back the stems to maintain a pleasing shape. This will help to develop a thick main trunk. Prune back to just above the rings on the stems where the old leaves were located. New leaves will grow from these locations.
Gardening: Crassula ovata is easy plant to grow. It comes from a frost-free environment, but it should tolerate a winter minimum of -1° C (30°F) when it is planted in ground. However, it is best protected from frost to prevent the flowers from being damaged.
Location: Crassula ovata thrives in full sun or semi-shade, but will flower best in a sunny position.
To induce a potted specimen to flower, move it into a sunny or brightly lit position during summer and autumn – but if it has been in a cool low-light spot remember to introduce it to stronger light gradually or the leaves will be scorched.
Soil: While growth is very slow, Crassula ovata is extremely tolerant of poor, dry soil. It grows in normal loam soil with good drainage. Fast draining soil is necessary to avoid root rot of these plants.
Irrigation: Crassula ovata plants should be well watered and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again. Do not to overwater these plants. They are tolerant of drought, wind and coastal conditions. Crassula ovata will tolerate periods of drought effortlessly, but will soon rot if left to stand in wet soil.
During the winter months, plants are watered only enough to prevent the leaves from shriveling.
Fertilise: Mild liquid fertiliser used at monthly intervals during the active growing period will be provide adequate fertility. Do not fertilise during the winter.
Propagation: Individual leaves of Crassula ovata will root readily in the recommended sandy potting mixture if kept in warm room in a position where they can get bright filtered light, but more satisfactory way to propagate in by 5-8cm (2-3 inch) long stem cuttings or basal offsets. The cuttings or offsets should be taken in spring. Plant it in a 5-8cm (2-3 inch) pot of equal parts mixture of peat moss and sand and keep it at normal room temperature in bright filtered light. Water the cuttings or the offsets moderately, just enough to make the potting mixture thoroughly moist and allow the top couple of centimetres of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings. Give it some standard liquid fertiliser about once a month.
When the cuttings are well rooted – in about three months – move the young plant into a one size larger pot of recommended potting mixture and treat it as a mature plant.
Problems:
Rotting at the base together with wilting of the plant top is probably due to overwatering or to poor drainage.
Brown shriveled patches on leaves indicate inadequate watering.
Crassula ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs.
Treatment: Use a suitable pesticide for Crassula ovata as these succulents are sensitive to certain insecticides. Before using a spray insecticides make sure that the product used is labeled for jade plants.
Notes: The genus Crassula is one of the most diverse succulent genera, varying from tiny moss-like annual plants to 3m (10 feet) tall succulent ‘trees’ like Crassula ovata. There are more than 300 Crassula species of which approximate 150 are found in southern Africa where they are widespread, but concentrated in the semi-arid winter-rainfall areas. The centre of distribution of this genus is in southern Africa, but they extend beyond Africa into Europe, America, Australia, New Zealand and the southern islands.
Recommended varieties:
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Gollum’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Gollum’) (Gollum Jade, Trumpet Jade, ET’s Fingers) has tubular leaves, trumpet shaped, each of them tipped with a suction cup, 4-ranked (decussate), smooth, deep glossy green in color with very light spotting usually with bright red leaf margins; the new growth is reddish. It is a small sparingly branched, shrubby, erect, succulent, that can slowly grow up to 50-80cm tall by 30-60cm (12-24 inch) wide.
Crassula ovata ‘Convoluta Hobbit’ (= Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) (Hobbit’s Pipe Jade, Hobbit Jade) has leaves that are nearly tubular and curled back around.
Crassula ovata ‘Minor’ (Crassula ovata ‘Minima’) is a dwarf has glossy green thick fleshy leaves with reddish edges. The trunk and branches on this plant are thick.It will grow to maximum height of 50 to 75cm (20-30 inch) with a with of 25 to 50cm (10-20 inch).
Uses and display: Crassula ovata is a wonderful sculptural plant for pots, tubs, rockeries, retaining walls and gravel gardens and is the ideal plant for a water-wise garden. It can also be grown in pots indoors. It have long been used in containers where they will live for years in root-bound conditions but can also be used as specimen or hedge plantings outdoors in full sun, part sun or deep shade.
In the Far East, Germany and the USA it is traditionally grown in square porcelain tubs with ‘lion feet’ to bring good financial luck and has attracted more common names including the Money Tree, Penny Plant, Dollar Plant and Tree of Happiness.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Shape – uprighth
Height: 1-3m (3-10 feet)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright
Temperature in rest period – min 7C max 13C
Temperature in active growth period – min 16C max 24C
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9a-11
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年06月02日
Distribution and habitat: Aloe aristata is a species of evergreen flowering perennial plant in the subfamily Asphodelaceae. It is native to mountains grassland of South Africa and is therefore best suited to warm, dry conditions. These plants can be found growing up to 2300m (7500 feet) above sea level in their natural habitat and is one of the hardest species within its genus. They have become increasingly rare in the wild through harvesting.
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
Description: Aloe aristata is a dwarf version of the Aloe genus. It is stemless with dark grey-green leaves densely packed in a rosette. Each leaf is about 15cm (6 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) wide, spotted with tubercles. The margins of the leaves are lined with white horny materials and both the margins and the surfaces of the leaves are minutely toothed with short, soft white spines.
and has hard white edges and a bristle like growth from the leaf tip. Orange flowers, which appear on a 30cm (12 inch) stalk in early summer, lasting for several days. Mature plants produce many offsets.
Its fleshy leaves retain water allowing the plant to get through periods of drought without trouble. It is a small plant, usually growing to about 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch) in a tight rosette formation. Its nectar-rich, tubular orange flowers attract birds and bees.
Houseplant care: Aloe aristata is a small hardy succulent plant popular as an indoor plant.
Light: Bright light suits Aloe aristata. It will not thrive if permanently placed at a distance from a window.
Temperature: Aloe aristata plants grow well in normal room temperatures and are tolerant of dry air. To encourage flowering, however, it is best to give the plants a short winter rest at a temperature of no more that 10°C (50°F).
Watering: During the active growth period water plentifully as often as necessary to keep the potting mixture thoroughly moist. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out. Do not permit water to collect in the tight rosette.
Feeding: Apply standard liquid fertiliser every two weeks during the active growth period.
Potting and repotting: Use a soil based potting mixture. Most Aloe aristata should be moved into pots one size larger every spring. Keep these plants in shallow pots. When maximum convenient pot size has been reached, plants should be top dressed with fresh potting mixture once a year. To prevent rot, make sure that these plants which have tick basal leaves are never buried deeper than they were before. A sprinkling of coarse sand over the surface of the potting mixture helps to prevent rot points where fleshy leaves of these stemless plants touch the soil.
Gardening: In order to grow Aloe aristata in temperate climates they will need to be taken inside during the coldest weather and keep them in bright sunlight during the summer. This species is hardier than many other species within its genus, but will still appreciate the warmth. It requires very little maintenance, making it an ideal choice for novice gardeners.They flower freely in the summer and the soft-orange flowers are a wonderful addition to the arid garden.
Location: Aloe aristata can be place in full sun or semi-shade in hot climates.
Soil: Dry and well drained gritty soils are suitable for these plants. Sandy free draining soil will keep the Aloe aristata healthy. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage.
Irrigation: This genus is well known for its ease of cultivation, but they are sensitive to excessive irrigation. Provide regular watering in spring and summer to make the soil thoroughly moist then allow the soil to dry before watering again. In winter (during the dormant season) water sparingly or not at all, as it is prone to rotting; a thin layer of gravel on top of the soil will help to prevent this.
Fertilising: Feed Aloe aristata very little now and then during the active growth period.
Propagation: Aloe aristata produces offsets that can be taken from the base of a plant early in summer. These small new rosettes are often attached to the parent by a short underground stolon and may already have little roots, which should be retained for propagation propose.
Because very tiny offsets are hard to root, they should not be removed for planting until their leaves have begun to open into the characteristic rosette shape.
Offsets will root in two to three weeks in the standard potting mixture if some coarse sand is sprinkled at the base of the rosette to prevent rotting. Until offsets are well established, they should be provided with bright light without direct sunlight and they should be watered only enough to moisten the potting mixture, allowing the top two-thirds of the potting mixture to dry out between waterings.
Also, Aloe aristata can be propagated by seed sown in warm environment as soon as ripe.
Problems: Most likely to be caused by incorrect watering. A properly watered Aloe aristata plant can resist most pests and diseases.
Wilting is the result of inadequate water in summer.
Yellowing leaves accompanied by rotting at the base is the result of overwatering plants kept in cool winter conditions.
Mealy bugs and root mealy bugs ca be troublesome. The former hide deep in the crevices of rosette foliage and the latter generally bury themselves in the roots, just below the surface of the potting mixture.
Treatment: Remove visible bugs with a toothpick or a damp cloth or swab them off foliage with a small, stiff paintbrush dipped in methylated spirit or an insecticide solution. Then spray all top growth with an appropriate pesticide. Alternatively, place granules of a systemic pesticide in the potting mixture. During the next month examine plants weekly for traces of reinfestation.
Scale insects can also infest this plant.
Treatment: Scale can be easily controlled by physical removal, wash off with high pressure jet of water or scrape off with cotton wool buds or by chemical control with appropriate pesticide.
Note: When not in bloom, Aloe aristata is similar to and often confused with Haworthia fasciata.
Uses: Aloe aristata is cultivated as a garden plant, but as it requires winter protection is grown under glass in temperate regions. Left to grow by themselves, they quickly form a large clump and are very effective in a large xeriphytic landscape if planted en masse about 0.5m (2 feet) apart, so that as the clumps grow and spread they form an expansive globular carpet.
Also, Aloe aristata is often grown indoors as a window-ledge succulent plant.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – variegated
Features – flowers
Shape – rosette
Height: 15 to 20cm (6-8 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – bright filtered
Temperature in rest period – min 7°C max 10°C (45-50°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 7b-11
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月31日
Distribution and habitat: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is a very widespread species, occurring in the climatically severe central-southern Africa and Namibia. It is one of the most adaptable, widespread and also variable Haworthia primarily found in the summer rainfall area. It grows on bushes and rocky areas. Usually it is very proliferous or stoloniferous, forming clusters in nature and filling in the space it has – shady place under the bush or in rock crevices. It is associated with other succulents such as Euphorbia aggregata, Cotyledon toxicaria, Crassula obvallata, Mesembriantemum saxicolum and Stapelia flavirostris.
Description: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is one of the most widespread and also it is a very variable plant and in the past there were a huge number of names amongst this species (at least 26 varieties), but all this varieties merge gradually one with another through a continuous series of transitional forms, so now they are all called Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata .
It is a succulent evergreen slow-growing species reaching a size of 15cm (6 inch) in height. This plant is stemless, low 5-10cm (2-4 inch) in diameter with about 7-15 leaves arranged in spirals. The leaves are sessile 3-5cm (1-2 inch) long, 2-3cm (0.8-1 inch) wide at the base, fleshy, firm in texture, broadly triangular, strongly recurved, brownish to green, cuspidate at the apex; upper surface flattish, marked with six pale green anastomosing verticallines forming a square patterned design and windowed (sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells), lower surface is usually rounded slightly scabrid with raised coriaceous tubercles, especially in the upper part where they are arranged in transverse rows, margins with recurved white teeth. The leaves are greenish, form a rosette and turn to reddish in full sun.
This stemless plant sends underground stolons up to 14cm (6 inch) away from the mother plant. This vegetative reproduction results in a mat of plants and produce clones of parent plant.
Small tubular white flowers with green bibs appear in summer time on a few flowered simple raceme up to 50cm (20 inch) tall.
Houseplant care: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in cultivation it grows quite easily, spreading by offsetting and via stolons.
Light: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata will take various light conditions, but neither direct sunlight or deep shade. If given it the right amount of sun light, the nice markings will be more visible and plants more attractive.
It is recommended to stand these plants outside in summer in a place where they can get some indirect sun light.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures are satisfactory at all times, but Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata do best if winter temperatures are kept about 15°C (59°F). They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). They do prefer more warmth even while resting in winter and spring, however.
Watering: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is very tolerant of underwatering, but will succumb quickly to rotting if overwatered. During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely.
Their growing season tends to be during the winter months and roots are often lost during summer months. Watering at the wrong time of year may kill the plant, so some sensitivity to the active growing cycle is required.
Feeding: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata thrives with very occasionally and should only be fertilised using a weak solution.
Potting and repotting: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata has a slow rate of growth, therefor repotting is only required infrequently and usually only when offsets have filled the pot. Half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. When pot a specimen always leave a 4-5cm space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture.
Gardening: Outdoors Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants do fairly well in zones 9b-10b in arid climates. They make fairly decent landscape plants filling small areas between rocks nicely. But they often get lost in complicated and overgrown gardens and then suffer from lack of light. To overcome such situations it is recommended to grow Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in pots.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in wild are nearly buried in the soils with only the leaf-tops exposed. They do not need to be planted this way in pots and look a lot nicer with at least some leaves sticking out above the soils.
Position: The more light the better, partial day sun to light shade is the optimum light intensity needed for Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. Also, these plants will grow well in a greenhouse.
Soil: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need a well draining soil and a layer of top dressing.
These plants need mildly acidic soil. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage. Warm climates may require more water-retention properties than cool or indoor climates.
Top dressing is a good idea, not just for looks, but helps to keep the plant’s leaves off from the wet soil, promotes drainage through the soil and help preserving the water into the soil.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold… however, Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering… too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Some experts recommend just repotting every few years and that will pretty much negate the need for fertilizer.
Propagation: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata can be propagated by seed or offsets.
Most Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants will eventually offset and those offsets are easy to separate and produce a new plant. This way of propagation will result in new plant identical with the parent plant. When cutting off an offset without roots, best to let it dry over three days or so before replanting it again. Press it on slightly moist soil and keep it in warm area and keep out of sun. Summer is the best moment to separate the offsets. They will root into the soil.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridise so easily that the results are likely to be unpredictable.
The flowers of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need pollination in order to produce seeds and artificial pollination is very effective. It is easy to create all sorts of Haworthia hybrids by transferring pollen from flower to flower, plant to plant.
Problems: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is generally disease free.
These plants may need to be re-rooted (get rooting hormone) in an evenly warm, well lit but protected environment. Once it is rooted well, it can go back out into the general collection for more abuse.
Exposure to direct sunlight of unaccustomed plants can lead to severely sunburn and subsequently may rot.
Grown in low light for much of the year can create etiolated, weakened and abnormally green plants.
Meallybugs may be a problem. It is their main pest.
Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Note: The Latin name tessellata comes from the tiled pattern in the leaf faces. Sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells. This is especially useful in the arid climates where Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata makes its living as the primary photosynthesis tissues are not exposed to the drying elements.
Companion plants: Haworthias species are small succulent plants closely related to Aloe, Gasteria, Kniphofia, Poellnitzia and Astroloba species.
Uses and display: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata are generally grown for their decorative leaf markings and architectural forms. They are suitable for patio landscapes and as container plants, being an attractive, easy plant for a pan. They are compact plants so can easily be grouped in different sized containers to add visual appeal.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – coloured
Shape – rosette
Height: 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – medium
Temperature in rest period – min 4°C max 18°C (39-59°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
Description: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is one of the most widespread and also it is a very variable plant and in the past there were a huge number of names amongst this species (at least 26 varieties), but all this varieties merge gradually one with another through a continuous series of transitional forms, so now they are all called Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata .
It is a succulent evergreen slow-growing species reaching a size of 15cm (6 inch) in height. This plant is stemless, low 5-10cm (2-4 inch) in diameter with about 7-15 leaves arranged in spirals. The leaves are sessile 3-5cm (1-2 inch) long, 2-3cm (0.8-1 inch) wide at the base, fleshy, firm in texture, broadly triangular, strongly recurved, brownish to green, cuspidate at the apex; upper surface flattish, marked with six pale green anastomosing verticallines forming a square patterned design and windowed (sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells), lower surface is usually rounded slightly scabrid with raised coriaceous tubercles, especially in the upper part where they are arranged in transverse rows, margins with recurved white teeth. The leaves are greenish, form a rosette and turn to reddish in full sun.
This stemless plant sends underground stolons up to 14cm (6 inch) away from the mother plant. This vegetative reproduction results in a mat of plants and produce clones of parent plant.
Small tubular white flowers with green bibs appear in summer time on a few flowered simple raceme up to 50cm (20 inch) tall.
Houseplant care: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in cultivation it grows quite easily, spreading by offsetting and via stolons.
Light: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata will take various light conditions, but neither direct sunlight or deep shade. If given it the right amount of sun light, the nice markings will be more visible and plants more attractive.
It is recommended to stand these plants outside in summer in a place where they can get some indirect sun light.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures are satisfactory at all times, but Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata do best if winter temperatures are kept about 15°C (59°F). They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). They do prefer more warmth even while resting in winter and spring, however.
Watering: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is very tolerant of underwatering, but will succumb quickly to rotting if overwatered. During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely.
Their growing season tends to be during the winter months and roots are often lost during summer months. Watering at the wrong time of year may kill the plant, so some sensitivity to the active growing cycle is required.
Feeding: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata thrives with very occasionally and should only be fertilised using a weak solution.
Potting and repotting: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata has a slow rate of growth, therefor repotting is only required infrequently and usually only when offsets have filled the pot. Half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. When pot a specimen always leave a 4-5cm space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture.
Gardening: Outdoors Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants do fairly well in zones 9b-10b in arid climates. They make fairly decent landscape plants filling small areas between rocks nicely. But they often get lost in complicated and overgrown gardens and then suffer from lack of light. To overcome such situations it is recommended to grow Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in pots.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata in wild are nearly buried in the soils with only the leaf-tops exposed. They do not need to be planted this way in pots and look a lot nicer with at least some leaves sticking out above the soils.
Position: The more light the better, partial day sun to light shade is the optimum light intensity needed for Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants. Also, these plants will grow well in a greenhouse.
Soil: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need a well draining soil and a layer of top dressing.
These plants need mildly acidic soil. Use cactus compost or add sand to improve the garden soil drainage. Warm climates may require more water-retention properties than cool or indoor climates.
Top dressing is a good idea, not just for looks, but helps to keep the plant’s leaves off from the wet soil, promotes drainage through the soil and help preserving the water into the soil.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold… however, Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering… too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Some experts recommend just repotting every few years and that will pretty much negate the need for fertilizer.
Propagation: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata can be propagated by seed or offsets.
Most Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata plants will eventually offset and those offsets are easy to separate and produce a new plant. This way of propagation will result in new plant identical with the parent plant. When cutting off an offset without roots, best to let it dry over three days or so before replanting it again. Press it on slightly moist soil and keep it in warm area and keep out of sun. Summer is the best moment to separate the offsets. They will root into the soil.
Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridise so easily that the results are likely to be unpredictable.
The flowers of Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata need pollination in order to produce seeds and artificial pollination is very effective. It is easy to create all sorts of Haworthia hybrids by transferring pollen from flower to flower, plant to plant.
Problems: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata is generally disease free.
These plants may need to be re-rooted (get rooting hormone) in an evenly warm, well lit but protected environment. Once it is rooted well, it can go back out into the general collection for more abuse.
Exposure to direct sunlight of unaccustomed plants can lead to severely sunburn and subsequently may rot.
Grown in low light for much of the year can create etiolated, weakened and abnormally green plants.
Meallybugs may be a problem. It is their main pest.
Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Note: The Latin name tessellata comes from the tiled pattern in the leaf faces. Sunlight enters the plant body through these translucent windows and is converted into energy by many layers of chlorophyll-rich cells. This is especially useful in the arid climates where Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata makes its living as the primary photosynthesis tissues are not exposed to the drying elements.
Companion plants: Haworthias species are small succulent plants closely related to Aloe, Gasteria, Kniphofia, Poellnitzia and Astroloba species.
Uses and display: Haworthia venosa subsp. tessellata are generally grown for their decorative leaf markings and architectural forms. They are suitable for patio landscapes and as container plants, being an attractive, easy plant for a pan. They are compact plants so can easily be grouped in different sized containers to add visual appeal.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – coloured
Shape – rosette
Height: 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – moderately
Light – medium
Temperature in rest period – min 4°C max 18°C (39-59°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月28日
Distribution and habitat: Haworthia is a genus of small succulent plants endemic to Southern Africa. Like the Aloes, they are members of the subfamily Asphodeloideae and they generally resemble miniature aloes, except in their flowers, which are characteristic in appearance. They are popular garden and container plants.
Haworthia pumila occurs in a winter rainfall area, which experiences mild frost, -2°C (28°F). Summers are hot, up to 44°C (111°F). Rainfall varies from 150mm (6 inch) (Worcester area) to 350mm (14 inch) (Montagu area). Haworthia pumila is not an endangered plant.
Description: Haworthia pumila is one of the most impressive and eventually large species of the genus. Haworthia pumila has triangular, rather tough, dark green leaves thickly spotted with pearly white warts. Stems are very short and the many leaved rosettes, which can attain a diameter of 15cm (6 inch) and a height of 7-10cm (3-4 inch), appears to be stemless. A cluster of rosettes form quickly (within about a year). The lower, older leaves of each rosette stand erect, but younger ones toward of the rosette centre curve inward. The 7mm (0.3 inch) thick leaves are about 9cm (3 inch) long and 3cm (1 inch) wide at the base. Leaf upper surfaces are flat, while the undersides are keeled toward the tips.
The flowers are somewhat larger than in other species, greenish to brownish-white in colour and waxy in texture (usually Haworthia flowers are white, but not in this case). The booming season is early summer and seed ripens in autumn.
Houseplant care: Haworthia pumila are classified as succulent – which means that they can cope with relatively harsh waterless hot environments. They are however not frost hardy, which means that for cultivation they need over the winter season either a sunny windowsill or preferably a greenhouse.
They are relatively slow-growing plants that offsets to form small clusters with time.
Light: Never place Haworthia pumila in direct sunlight. If exposed to summer sun, foliage will shrivel. Medium light suits this plant at all times. When the plants are provided with enough light, than the white tubercles from the leaves became more attractive.
It is recommended to move these house plants outdoors for the summer months. Place them in light shaded area, but out of direct sun which can scorch its leaves.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures 18-24°C (65-75°F) spring through fall. They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). In winter, if possible, keep Haworthia pumila cooler – around 15°C (59°F) is the optimum winter temperature for this plant.
Water: During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter (0.4 inch) or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely. Never let the potting mixture become completely dry, however. Although Haworthia pumila are succulent plants, they cannot survive total drought.
Feeding: It is neither necessary nor advisable to feed Haworthia pumila .
Longevity: Haworthia pumila plants live for about 30 to 40 years if they are cultivated properly.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. Since Haworthia pumila plants are shallow rooted, half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of the plants. In potting a specimen always leave a 4-5cm (1.5-2 inch) space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture. The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Gardening: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low -2°C (28°F) – it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Position: Haworthia pumila requires light shade to bright light, protected from strong midday sun. In shade the body colour will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body colour.
The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more colour if it receives more light. During the spring it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.
Soil: Haworthia pumila are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold. However, Haworthia pumila plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering as too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Do NOT fertilize newly potted plants for the first year. After that, fertilize once in spring, once in fall with diluted fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Avoid summer fertilizing as plant is in a short rest period.
Propagation: Remove the offsets in summer; they should pull away easily. Pot up immediately any offset with roots already attached and treat it as a mature plant.
Allow an offset without roots to dry for three days, however, then press it into the potting mixture. At this stage it should be possible to treat the new plant as an adult Haworthia pumila.
To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base.
Haworthia pumila grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridize so easily, however, that the results are likely to be unpredictable. Haworthia pumila grows relatively slowly from seed and it takes about 5 years for a plant to reach flowering maturity.
Problems: Given correct treatment, this plant is generally trouble free.
Stunted growth may indicate mealy bags infestation.
Treatment: Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. Haworthia species can lose their roots periodically. They can rot with too much moisture, especially when there is a sudden temperature drop.
Treatment: There are two ways to handle this:
1. Simply leave the plant on its side and when ‘bumps’ which are the new roots start to appear (It may take a few weeks), pot the plant in soil and water normally. Mist it occasionally for encouragement.
2. The second method is more like how it happens in nature and is my preferred method. Be sure the plant is in well-draining soil and water normally. In a month or so, gently tug and feel the roots taking hold–if the roots are not holding, don’t worry. Just put the plant back in the soil and wait a little longer.
If the plant has lost its roots and is severely dehydrated at the same time, it may be too far gone to save. But always it is worth a try.
When watering, avoid getting the leaves wet. Like other succulents, it is prone to rot if its leaves get too wet. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing and cooler and dry when dormant.
Reddish colour can mean many things besides root loss. Many of Haworthia turn red when the temperature drops or when they get too much sunlight. A plant can loose their reddish colour turning in green later as the environment condition are changed.
Uses and display: Haworthia pumila can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants or in outdoor rockeries.
Haworthias are small, making them beautiful additions to succulent and cactus dish gardens.
Haworthia pumila occurs in a winter rainfall area, which experiences mild frost, -2°C (28°F). Summers are hot, up to 44°C (111°F). Rainfall varies from 150mm (6 inch) (Worcester area) to 350mm (14 inch) (Montagu area). Haworthia pumila is not an endangered plant.
Description: Haworthia pumila is one of the most impressive and eventually large species of the genus. Haworthia pumila has triangular, rather tough, dark green leaves thickly spotted with pearly white warts. Stems are very short and the many leaved rosettes, which can attain a diameter of 15cm (6 inch) and a height of 7-10cm (3-4 inch), appears to be stemless. A cluster of rosettes form quickly (within about a year). The lower, older leaves of each rosette stand erect, but younger ones toward of the rosette centre curve inward. The 7mm (0.3 inch) thick leaves are about 9cm (3 inch) long and 3cm (1 inch) wide at the base. Leaf upper surfaces are flat, while the undersides are keeled toward the tips.
The flowers are somewhat larger than in other species, greenish to brownish-white in colour and waxy in texture (usually Haworthia flowers are white, but not in this case). The booming season is early summer and seed ripens in autumn.
Houseplant care: Haworthia pumila are classified as succulent – which means that they can cope with relatively harsh waterless hot environments. They are however not frost hardy, which means that for cultivation they need over the winter season either a sunny windowsill or preferably a greenhouse.
They are relatively slow-growing plants that offsets to form small clusters with time.
Light: Never place Haworthia pumila in direct sunlight. If exposed to summer sun, foliage will shrivel. Medium light suits this plant at all times. When the plants are provided with enough light, than the white tubercles from the leaves became more attractive.
It is recommended to move these house plants outdoors for the summer months. Place them in light shaded area, but out of direct sun which can scorch its leaves.
Temperature: Normal room temperatures 18-24°C (65-75°F) spring through fall. They have a rest period from mid-winter to late spring and can survive temperatures down to 4-5°C (39-41°F). In winter, if possible, keep Haworthia pumila cooler – around 15°C (59°F) is the optimum winter temperature for this plant.
Water: During the active growth period water moderately, enough to make the potting mixture moist throughout but allowing the top centimeter (0.4 inch) or so to dry out between waterings. During the rest period water only enough to prevent the potting mixture from drying out completely. Never let the potting mixture become completely dry, however. Although Haworthia pumila are succulent plants, they cannot survive total drought.
Feeding: It is neither necessary nor advisable to feed Haworthia pumila .
Longevity: Haworthia pumila plants live for about 30 to 40 years if they are cultivated properly.
Potting and repotting: Use a porous potting mixture composed of one part of coarse sand or perlite to two parts of standard soil-based mixture. Since Haworthia pumila plants are shallow rooted, half-pots are best suited to the clustering habit of the plants. In potting a specimen always leave a 4-5cm (1.5-2 inch) space between the edges of the cluster and the rim of the pot to allow room for new growth.
Repot in spring at the start of the growth period. After pulling or cutting off any dead or shriveled leaves, move each plant into a larger pot only if the rosette cluster covers the entire surface of the potting mixture. The largest pot size needed will be 12-15cm (5-6 inch). A plant that has grown beyond that size should be split up.
Gardening: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low -2°C (28°F) – it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Position: Haworthia pumila requires light shade to bright light, protected from strong midday sun. In shade the body colour will remain mostly green, while full sun will darken it and give it red/brown body colour.
The amount of sunlight it can withstand without scorching depends upon the how hot it becomes in the summer in the locale in which it is planted. It will have more colour if it receives more light. During the spring it may be able to take full sun until the heat arrives at the end of spring. In an area that has hot afternoon sun, it may be able to take full morning sun, but requires afternoon shade or afternoon light shade. Can be sunburned if moved from shade/greenhouse into full sun too quickly.
Soil: Haworthia pumila are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal.
Irrigation: Watering varies depending on the plants position and temperature. Water them frequently when it is warm and dry (but not at the very peak of the heat- they seem to go through a period of summer dormancy at this time) and less to not at all in winter when it is cold. However, Haworthia pumila plants or pots with succulent plants communities are sitting under the grey skies of winter storms and get a lot of rainwater at a time when they are probably mostly dormant. It seems that it is not be a problem for these plants.
Individual plants in smaller pots demand more attention. Water ideally when soil is getting dry and not if wet. When in doubt, best to skip watering as too much is worse than too little. Some pots dry out faster than others, too (if glazed, unglazed terracotta, metal, glass etc – all dry out at different rates).
Fertilising: Do NOT fertilize newly potted plants for the first year. After that, fertilize once in spring, once in fall with diluted fertiliser at half the recommended strength. Avoid summer fertilizing as plant is in a short rest period.
Propagation: Remove the offsets in summer; they should pull away easily. Pot up immediately any offset with roots already attached and treat it as a mature plant.
Allow an offset without roots to dry for three days, however, then press it into the potting mixture. At this stage it should be possible to treat the new plant as an adult Haworthia pumila.
To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base.
Haworthia pumila grow readily from seed. These plants have a tendency to hybridize so easily, however, that the results are likely to be unpredictable. Haworthia pumila grows relatively slowly from seed and it takes about 5 years for a plant to reach flowering maturity.
Problems: Given correct treatment, this plant is generally trouble free.
Stunted growth may indicate mealy bags infestation.
Treatment: Occasional watering with systemic insecticides based on Imidacloprid will keep the plants free of mealy bugs.
Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. Haworthia species can lose their roots periodically. They can rot with too much moisture, especially when there is a sudden temperature drop.
Treatment: There are two ways to handle this:
1. Simply leave the plant on its side and when ‘bumps’ which are the new roots start to appear (It may take a few weeks), pot the plant in soil and water normally. Mist it occasionally for encouragement.
2. The second method is more like how it happens in nature and is my preferred method. Be sure the plant is in well-draining soil and water normally. In a month or so, gently tug and feel the roots taking hold–if the roots are not holding, don’t worry. Just put the plant back in the soil and wait a little longer.
If the plant has lost its roots and is severely dehydrated at the same time, it may be too far gone to save. But always it is worth a try.
When watering, avoid getting the leaves wet. Like other succulents, it is prone to rot if its leaves get too wet. If they are not, fungicides won’t help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing and cooler and dry when dormant.
Reddish colour can mean many things besides root loss. Many of Haworthia turn red when the temperature drops or when they get too much sunlight. A plant can loose their reddish colour turning in green later as the environment condition are changed.
Uses and display: Haworthia pumila can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants or in outdoor rockeries.
Haworthias are small, making them beautiful additions to succulent and cactus dish gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2021年05月22日
Distribution and habitat: Faucaria tigrina is a subtropical succulent plant native of South Africa in eastern Cape Province thicket and savanna and the Karoo desert. It is found in open, rocky patches, in a dark clay soil with a low pH, in mountain renosterveld.
The Latin name for these succulent house plants is Faucaria meaning jaws and tigrina meaning tiger.
The ‘teeth’ of the Faucaria tigrina however, are actually soft and harmless, and help to trap moist fog and direct it down to the roots. Fog that comes in from the coast provides a precious source of water for plants surviving in the hot, arid thickets.
Description: Faucaria tigrina are low growing succulent plants with four or five layers of leaves arranged in criss-cross opposite pairs, forming a thick, star shaped rosette. Each pair of leaves is united at the base and these are virtually no stems. The leaves are fleshy and pointed, 2-5cm (0.8-2 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) broad at the base. The roughly triangular leaves, which are usually edged with soft and bristle-like hooked teeth, have a flat upper surface, but the underside is convex. Leaf colour is greyish green marked with many small white dots. The teeth on the edge of the young leaves interlock, but they later strengthen and separate to give a jaw like appearance.
The plants send out basal offsets that form crowded clumps.
Relatively large, daisy-like flowers, which generally open in the afternoon, are produced from between the leaves in autumn. They are attractive golden yellow, stalk-less and can be up to 5cm (2 inch) wide.
Proper care: The plants in this genus represent some of the more easily cultivated succulent species.
Light: Faucaria tigrina must have at least three hours a day of direct sunlight all year long in order to flower.
Temperature: Faucaria tigrina needs warmer temperatures from spring through fall 21-32°C (70-90°F). It needs average temperatures in winter, 16-24°C (60-75°F).
If the plant is moved outdoors for the summer, be sure to bring it back indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 16°C (60°F).
This succulent plant requires an average to dry humidity.
Water: Keep Faucaria tigrina soil lightly moist spring through fall. In winter, allow soil to dry out between waterings.
Feeding: During the active growth period only, apply standard liquid fertiliser at half-strength once or twice during growth period. Too frequent feeding will result in soft, uncharacteristic growth.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture composed of two parts of soil-based mixture to one part of coarse sand or grit. Because Faucaria tigrina have relatively little root, plant them in shallow pans or half-pots. When a clump has covered the surface of the potting mixture, move plants into a container one size larger. Repotting should be necessary, however, only one in two or three years. The best time to pot is early spring.
Gardening: In areas prone to frost, Faucaria tigrina should be overwintered in an intermediate greenhouse or conservatory, in pots of cactus compost. Although the plants will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low as -5°C (23°F) – they should be protected from frost to prevent scarring.
Faucarias become woody and untidy as they age. New plants can be started by cutting a rosette and planting it.
Position: Faucaria tigrina plants need full sun to light shade. Keep them shaded in summer, but provide maximum light the rest of the year. They do not do well in full shade as they tend to etiolate, fall over and rot easily.
Soil: Faucaria tigrina need to be located in an accentuated and drained substratum. The substrate should be gritty-sandy soil. They thrive on a little compost and some fine mulch spread between the plants would also be a good idea.
These succulent plants will grow in a well-drained soil mix, but can tolerate a wide variety of soil types and growing locations as long as there is plenty of sun.
Irrigation: Faucaria tigrina is native to a primarily summer rainfall area but in cultivation the plant can be watered year-round. The plants are well watered during the growing season and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again and will tolerate some over watering, but the challenge is to help them keep their compact form and prevent elongation of the stem.
Faucaria tigrina plants grow on winter rain and were heading for spring-summer dormancy. Requires little water otherwise their epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). Water moderately from the middle of summer to the end of winter and keep the compost almost dry when the plants are dormant. Water minimally in spring and summer, only when the plant starts shriveling (but they will generally grow even in summer if given water).
Fertiliser: Faucaria tigrina plants should be fertilised only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
Propagation: Carefully divide overcrowded clumps of Faucaria tigrina in late spring or early summer just after plants have restarted into growth. As individual plants are separated, some will come away with their roots attached. Insert each such rooted Faucaria tigrina directly into an 8cm or 10cm (3-4 inch) container of the recommended potting mixture and treat the new plant as a mature specimen. For the first week or two, however, keep the Faucaria tigrina in medium light, well out of direct sunlight.
An individual plant without roots attached should be left unpotted for a few days to let the base of the plant harden. It may then be inserted in the recommended potting mixture. Surround the base with some additional coarse sand. This will help to prevent rotting and encourage the development of roots. Keep the plant in medium light and water only moderately until new growth indicates that rooting has occurred. Thereafter, treat the young plant as a mature Faucaria tigrina.
Problems:
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases (phytophthora) indicated by sudden wilting and pale green discolouration.
Treatement: Remove infected plants and treat remaining plants preemptively with a systemic fungicide, before the gems grow excessively. Avoid fungus infections by improving drainage and over-fertilization.
Waxy fibres and honeydew on leaves and shoots indicate an infestation with mealybugs. Scale insects sit on the undersides of the leaves.
Treatment: At the end of the winter a wide range insecticide is recommended to be applied to prevent the insects attack. It is recommended to do these treatments when there are not flowerings in the garden. Alternatively, control biologically with predatory ladybirds or parasitic wasps can be used in garden.
Note: Continued urban development and over-grazing within its current natural habitat means Faucaria tigrina plant is classed as endangered in the wild.
Uses and display: Faucaria tigrina is used as a border or filler plant in rock gardens, xeriscaping or wild gardens. It will attract bees, butterflies and other insects into the garden. It is a suitable succulent plant for smaller gardens and can be used to stabilise banks and and reduce land erosion. Although it can be grown just as easily indoors as windowsill plant, being well suited to growing in containers and pots.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – low growing, clustering habit
Height: under 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
The Latin name for these succulent house plants is Faucaria meaning jaws and tigrina meaning tiger.
The ‘teeth’ of the Faucaria tigrina however, are actually soft and harmless, and help to trap moist fog and direct it down to the roots. Fog that comes in from the coast provides a precious source of water for plants surviving in the hot, arid thickets.
Description: Faucaria tigrina are low growing succulent plants with four or five layers of leaves arranged in criss-cross opposite pairs, forming a thick, star shaped rosette. Each pair of leaves is united at the base and these are virtually no stems. The leaves are fleshy and pointed, 2-5cm (0.8-2 inch) long and 2cm (0.8 inch) broad at the base. The roughly triangular leaves, which are usually edged with soft and bristle-like hooked teeth, have a flat upper surface, but the underside is convex. Leaf colour is greyish green marked with many small white dots. The teeth on the edge of the young leaves interlock, but they later strengthen and separate to give a jaw like appearance.
The plants send out basal offsets that form crowded clumps.
Relatively large, daisy-like flowers, which generally open in the afternoon, are produced from between the leaves in autumn. They are attractive golden yellow, stalk-less and can be up to 5cm (2 inch) wide.
Proper care: The plants in this genus represent some of the more easily cultivated succulent species.
Light: Faucaria tigrina must have at least three hours a day of direct sunlight all year long in order to flower.
Temperature: Faucaria tigrina needs warmer temperatures from spring through fall 21-32°C (70-90°F). It needs average temperatures in winter, 16-24°C (60-75°F).
If the plant is moved outdoors for the summer, be sure to bring it back indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 16°C (60°F).
This succulent plant requires an average to dry humidity.
Water: Keep Faucaria tigrina soil lightly moist spring through fall. In winter, allow soil to dry out between waterings.
Feeding: During the active growth period only, apply standard liquid fertiliser at half-strength once or twice during growth period. Too frequent feeding will result in soft, uncharacteristic growth.
Potting and repotting: Use a mixture composed of two parts of soil-based mixture to one part of coarse sand or grit. Because Faucaria tigrina have relatively little root, plant them in shallow pans or half-pots. When a clump has covered the surface of the potting mixture, move plants into a container one size larger. Repotting should be necessary, however, only one in two or three years. The best time to pot is early spring.
Gardening: In areas prone to frost, Faucaria tigrina should be overwintered in an intermediate greenhouse or conservatory, in pots of cactus compost. Although the plants will survive mild frost if kept dry – hardy as low as -5°C (23°F) – they should be protected from frost to prevent scarring.
Faucarias become woody and untidy as they age. New plants can be started by cutting a rosette and planting it.
Position: Faucaria tigrina plants need full sun to light shade. Keep them shaded in summer, but provide maximum light the rest of the year. They do not do well in full shade as they tend to etiolate, fall over and rot easily.
Soil: Faucaria tigrina need to be located in an accentuated and drained substratum. The substrate should be gritty-sandy soil. They thrive on a little compost and some fine mulch spread between the plants would also be a good idea.
These succulent plants will grow in a well-drained soil mix, but can tolerate a wide variety of soil types and growing locations as long as there is plenty of sun.
Irrigation: Faucaria tigrina is native to a primarily summer rainfall area but in cultivation the plant can be watered year-round. The plants are well watered during the growing season and allowed to dry thoroughly before watering again and will tolerate some over watering, but the challenge is to help them keep their compact form and prevent elongation of the stem.
Faucaria tigrina plants grow on winter rain and were heading for spring-summer dormancy. Requires little water otherwise their epidermis breaks (resulting in unsightly scars). Water moderately from the middle of summer to the end of winter and keep the compost almost dry when the plants are dormant. Water minimally in spring and summer, only when the plant starts shriveling (but they will generally grow even in summer if given water).
Fertiliser: Faucaria tigrina plants should be fertilised only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
Propagation: Carefully divide overcrowded clumps of Faucaria tigrina in late spring or early summer just after plants have restarted into growth. As individual plants are separated, some will come away with their roots attached. Insert each such rooted Faucaria tigrina directly into an 8cm or 10cm (3-4 inch) container of the recommended potting mixture and treat the new plant as a mature specimen. For the first week or two, however, keep the Faucaria tigrina in medium light, well out of direct sunlight.
An individual plant without roots attached should be left unpotted for a few days to let the base of the plant harden. It may then be inserted in the recommended potting mixture. Surround the base with some additional coarse sand. This will help to prevent rotting and encourage the development of roots. Keep the plant in medium light and water only moderately until new growth indicates that rooting has occurred. Thereafter, treat the young plant as a mature Faucaria tigrina.
Problems:
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases (phytophthora) indicated by sudden wilting and pale green discolouration.
Treatement: Remove infected plants and treat remaining plants preemptively with a systemic fungicide, before the gems grow excessively. Avoid fungus infections by improving drainage and over-fertilization.
Waxy fibres and honeydew on leaves and shoots indicate an infestation with mealybugs. Scale insects sit on the undersides of the leaves.
Treatment: At the end of the winter a wide range insecticide is recommended to be applied to prevent the insects attack. It is recommended to do these treatments when there are not flowerings in the garden. Alternatively, control biologically with predatory ladybirds or parasitic wasps can be used in garden.
Note: Continued urban development and over-grazing within its current natural habitat means Faucaria tigrina plant is classed as endangered in the wild.
Uses and display: Faucaria tigrina is used as a border or filler plant in rock gardens, xeriscaping or wild gardens. It will attract bees, butterflies and other insects into the garden. It is a suitable succulent plant for smaller gardens and can be used to stabilise banks and and reduce land erosion. Although it can be grown just as easily indoors as windowsill plant, being well suited to growing in containers and pots.
SUMMARY:
CHARACTERISTICS:
Foliage – green
Features – flowers
Shape – low growing, clustering habit
Height: under 15cm (6 inch)
PROPER CARE:
Watering in rest period – sparingly
Watering in active growth period – plentifully
Light – direct
Temperature in rest period – min 10°C max 13°C (50-55°F)
Temperature in active growth period – min 16°C max 24°C (61-75°F)
Humidity – low
Hardiness zone: 9b-11
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文章
ritau
2020年04月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as jade plant, lucky plant, money plant or money tree, is a succulent plant with small pink or white flowers that is native to the KwaZulu-Natal province and Eastern Cape of South Africa and Mozambique, and is common as a houseplant worldwide. Much of its popularity stems from the low levels of care needed; the jade plant requires little water and can survive in most indoor conditions. It is sometimes referred to as the money tree; however, Pachira aquatica also has this nickname.
The jade plant is an evergreen with thick branches. It has thick, shiny, smooth leaves that grow in opposing pairs along the branches. Leaves are a rich jade green, although some may appear to be more of a yellow-green. Some varieties may develop a red tinge on the edges of leaves when exposed to high levels of sunlight. New stem growth is the same colour and texture as the leaves, becoming woody and brown with age.
It grows as an upright, rounded, thick-stemmed, strongly branched, evergreen shrub and reaches stature heights of up to 2.5 meters. The base is usually sparsely branched. Sometimes a single main trunk of up to 6 centimetres in diameter is formed. The succulent shoots are gray-green. The bark of older branches peels off in horizontal, brownish stripes.
The oppositely arranged, ascending to spreading, green leaves are stalked with up to 5 millimetres short. The fleshy, bare, obovate, wedge-shaped leaf blade is 3 to 9 centimetres long and 1.8 to 4 centimetres wide. The sharp-edged leaf margins are often reddish.
Numerous varieties and cultivars have been selected, of which C. ovata 'Hummel's Sunset' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Although becoming brown and appearing woody with age, stems never become true lignified tissue, remaining succulent and fleshy throughout the plant's life. Under the right conditions, they may produce small white or pink, star-like shaped flowers in winter. The terminal inflorescence is a top round thyrsus with numerous dichasia. It has a length and a diameter of about 5 centimetres. The inflorescence stem has a length of 15 to 18 millimetres and a diameter of 2 millimetres. The flower stalks are 5 millimetres long.
The sweet-scented, hermaphrodite flowers are radial symmetry and double perianth. The five about 2 millimetres long sepals are fused to one another at their base. The pink or white flower crown is star-shaped and has a diameter of about 15 millimetres. Its lanceolate petals are 7 millimetres long and 2.5 millimetres wide. The stamens have a length of 5 millimetres. The combination of shorter days, cold nights and lack of water for several weeks will produce flowering around the beginning of winter.
As a succulent, Crassula ovata requires little water in the summer, and even less in the winter. It is susceptible to overwatering, especially during the cold season. Watering excessively can cause leaf fall and root rot. However, also the lack of water can damage it. It should be grown in a porous substrate with good drainage, which will vary depending on the climate it is grown in. It requires about 4-6 hours of direct sun, or medium shade exposures with bright light. In regions of mild weather it can withstand some light frost, provided that the substrate is kept dry.
C. ovata may display a red tinge around its leaves when grown with bright sunlight. In more extreme cases, the green colour of the plant is lost and can be replaced by yellow. This is caused by the jade plant making pigments such as carotenoids to protect from harsh sunlight and ultraviolet rays. The jade plant also does best in rich, well-draining soil. The plant also flowers in the wintertime, particularly during a cooler, darker, dry spell. C. ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs, a common nuisance of the succulents.
The jade plant is well known for its bonsai capabilities, since it forms a bonsai very easily when pruning is done correctly. Many who learn bonsai begin with a jade plant, since they are durable, easy to put through the bonsai process, and attractive.
The jade plant is an evergreen with thick branches. It has thick, shiny, smooth leaves that grow in opposing pairs along the branches. Leaves are a rich jade green, although some may appear to be more of a yellow-green. Some varieties may develop a red tinge on the edges of leaves when exposed to high levels of sunlight. New stem growth is the same colour and texture as the leaves, becoming woody and brown with age.
It grows as an upright, rounded, thick-stemmed, strongly branched, evergreen shrub and reaches stature heights of up to 2.5 meters. The base is usually sparsely branched. Sometimes a single main trunk of up to 6 centimetres in diameter is formed. The succulent shoots are gray-green. The bark of older branches peels off in horizontal, brownish stripes.
The oppositely arranged, ascending to spreading, green leaves are stalked with up to 5 millimetres short. The fleshy, bare, obovate, wedge-shaped leaf blade is 3 to 9 centimetres long and 1.8 to 4 centimetres wide. The sharp-edged leaf margins are often reddish.
Numerous varieties and cultivars have been selected, of which C. ovata 'Hummel's Sunset' has gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.
Although becoming brown and appearing woody with age, stems never become true lignified tissue, remaining succulent and fleshy throughout the plant's life. Under the right conditions, they may produce small white or pink, star-like shaped flowers in winter. The terminal inflorescence is a top round thyrsus with numerous dichasia. It has a length and a diameter of about 5 centimetres. The inflorescence stem has a length of 15 to 18 millimetres and a diameter of 2 millimetres. The flower stalks are 5 millimetres long.
The sweet-scented, hermaphrodite flowers are radial symmetry and double perianth. The five about 2 millimetres long sepals are fused to one another at their base. The pink or white flower crown is star-shaped and has a diameter of about 15 millimetres. Its lanceolate petals are 7 millimetres long and 2.5 millimetres wide. The stamens have a length of 5 millimetres. The combination of shorter days, cold nights and lack of water for several weeks will produce flowering around the beginning of winter.
As a succulent, Crassula ovata requires little water in the summer, and even less in the winter. It is susceptible to overwatering, especially during the cold season. Watering excessively can cause leaf fall and root rot. However, also the lack of water can damage it. It should be grown in a porous substrate with good drainage, which will vary depending on the climate it is grown in. It requires about 4-6 hours of direct sun, or medium shade exposures with bright light. In regions of mild weather it can withstand some light frost, provided that the substrate is kept dry.
C. ovata may display a red tinge around its leaves when grown with bright sunlight. In more extreme cases, the green colour of the plant is lost and can be replaced by yellow. This is caused by the jade plant making pigments such as carotenoids to protect from harsh sunlight and ultraviolet rays. The jade plant also does best in rich, well-draining soil. The plant also flowers in the wintertime, particularly during a cooler, darker, dry spell. C. ovata is sometimes attacked by mealybugs, a common nuisance of the succulents.
The jade plant is well known for its bonsai capabilities, since it forms a bonsai very easily when pruning is done correctly. Many who learn bonsai begin with a jade plant, since they are durable, easy to put through the bonsai process, and attractive.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Lantana plants are evergreen shrubs or stemmed perennials that are members of the verbena family. There are over 150 varieties of lantana that are native to the warmer areas of the Americas and Africa. They are perennials in zones 9b to 12 but are often grown as annuals in colder zones. Lantana requires full sun to thrive and is known for its prolific blooms and the bees and butterflies it attracts.
When to Plant
Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter.
Care and Maintenance
Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive.
If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed.
Problems of Lantana
Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors.
Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
When to Plant
Regardless of whether they are being grown as annuals or perennials, lantana thrive in heat and should be planted in the spring at least two weeks after any danger of frost has passed. Once planted, they often will not grow or bloom much until the soil warms up considerably. It is important that lantana plants have adequate time to establish their root systems if they are being grown as perennials. Otherwise, they will not survive the winter.
Care and Maintenance
Lantana are hardy plants that require very little care and maintenence other than a sunny, hot location and some deadheading to prolong blooming. In some areas, lantana grows so effortlessly that it is considered a noxious weed. This is not only because it can grow invasively but because all parts of the plant are poisonous.
Despite this bad rap, lantana is a mainstay in the garden because it blooms prolifically yet needs very little attention. The plant is drought hardy, requiring only weekly watering when it is blooming. Occasional trimming back encourages a bushier plant and more blooms. After trimming, a light application of fertilizer can help lantana continue to thrive.
If lantana is being grown as a perennial, do not cut it back hard in the fall, as this will compromise its ability to survive. Save hard pruning for spring, when plants should be cut back to 6 to12 inches above ground level and all dead growth and woodiness should be removed.
Problems of Lantana
Powdery mildew is the most common lantana disease; it can be prevented by making sure lantana is planted in full sun. Too much shade will also result in poor blooming.
Too much water, poorly draining soil and overhead watering can cause root rot, so care must be taken to avoid these factors.
Lantana are susceptible to whitefly infestation, mites and lantana lace bugs. Inspect plants frequently for leaf damage or drop. If present, remove affected foliage and apply a commercial insecticide and or fungicide to prevent infestation or infection from spreading.
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