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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Proteas are native to southern Africa and belong to the same family of plants (the family Proteaceae) as the Australian-grown Banksias, Grevilleas and Waratahs.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules.
Selecting
Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area.
Soil Requirements
Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting
We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.
Fertilizing
We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering
Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control
We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi.
Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot.
Pruning
Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers
We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water.
For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants
It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules.
Selecting
Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area.
Soil Requirements
Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting
We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.
Fertilizing
We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering
Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control
We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi.
Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot.
Pruning
Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers
We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water.
For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants
It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Sea Poison Tree (Barringtonia asiatica) is a salt-tolerant landscape tree, commonly associated with coastal areas, with a natural range extending from tropical Africa, through India to Southeast Asia, Australia and the Pacific.
It is typically 30 to 50 feet (10 to 15 m) tall and develops a short trunk with a low-branching structure and a densely branched, wide-spreading rounded crown. The leaves are large, oval or nearly so, glossy green, leathery and showy in whorled clusters at the tips of the branches.
It blooms on and off throughout the year, with large, showy, white, tulip-like flower buds that open at night to reveal their long, hair-like filaments, which are white with pink tips and collectively resemble a powder-puff when extended.
The flowers are followed by four-sided, woody fruit about the size of a juvenile coconut. Green when young they mature to a dull grey-brown and like a coconut, will float and drift on the ocean until they land on new shores.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Grows naturally in moderately humid to humid tropical coastal climates, generally in areas with annual lows of 68 to 77 °F (20 to 25 °C), annual highs of 81 to 93 °F (27 to 34 °C), annual rainfall of 1000 to 4000 mm and a dry season of 6 months or less.
Sea Poison Tree grows best in a fertile, humid, well-drained soil. Prefers a position in full sun or light shade. Established plants are fairly drought tolerant and very tolerant of saline conditions and salt laden winds. They thrive in the wild where their roots dabbling in the brackish waters of lagoons, inlets, estuaries and seasonally flooded coastal regions.
New plants are usually grown from seed. It performs best on free draining sand and loam soils of a slightly acid to alkaline nature, generally with a pH of 6.0 to 8.5 and on sites with full sun exposure. It has good tolerance to salt, wind, tidal flooding and coral derived limestone soils.
The flowers are short-lived, opening for one night only then lose their petals which fall to the ground creating litter along with the fallen leaves. The fruit are highly poisonous.
It is commonly cultivated in seaside gardens and landscapes for its showy foliage, flowers and the welcome shade that it offers against the hot midday sun. Its high tolerance to salt, tidal flooding and strong winds make it especially suited to sites on or near the shoreline, where it also serves as a natural windbreak against strong sea breezes.
Use
Because all parts of the tree contain saponin, which is a poison, the seeds and other parts of the plant are pounded and used to stun fish in freshwater streams.
Seeds are used to get rid of intestinal worms and the heated leaves are used to treat stomachache and rheumatism. Juice from the seeds are used to seal paper umbrellas and to kill lice and other external parasites.
It is typically 30 to 50 feet (10 to 15 m) tall and develops a short trunk with a low-branching structure and a densely branched, wide-spreading rounded crown. The leaves are large, oval or nearly so, glossy green, leathery and showy in whorled clusters at the tips of the branches.
It blooms on and off throughout the year, with large, showy, white, tulip-like flower buds that open at night to reveal their long, hair-like filaments, which are white with pink tips and collectively resemble a powder-puff when extended.
The flowers are followed by four-sided, woody fruit about the size of a juvenile coconut. Green when young they mature to a dull grey-brown and like a coconut, will float and drift on the ocean until they land on new shores.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Grows naturally in moderately humid to humid tropical coastal climates, generally in areas with annual lows of 68 to 77 °F (20 to 25 °C), annual highs of 81 to 93 °F (27 to 34 °C), annual rainfall of 1000 to 4000 mm and a dry season of 6 months or less.
Sea Poison Tree grows best in a fertile, humid, well-drained soil. Prefers a position in full sun or light shade. Established plants are fairly drought tolerant and very tolerant of saline conditions and salt laden winds. They thrive in the wild where their roots dabbling in the brackish waters of lagoons, inlets, estuaries and seasonally flooded coastal regions.
New plants are usually grown from seed. It performs best on free draining sand and loam soils of a slightly acid to alkaline nature, generally with a pH of 6.0 to 8.5 and on sites with full sun exposure. It has good tolerance to salt, wind, tidal flooding and coral derived limestone soils.
The flowers are short-lived, opening for one night only then lose their petals which fall to the ground creating litter along with the fallen leaves. The fruit are highly poisonous.
It is commonly cultivated in seaside gardens and landscapes for its showy foliage, flowers and the welcome shade that it offers against the hot midday sun. Its high tolerance to salt, tidal flooding and strong winds make it especially suited to sites on or near the shoreline, where it also serves as a natural windbreak against strong sea breezes.
Use
Because all parts of the tree contain saponin, which is a poison, the seeds and other parts of the plant are pounded and used to stun fish in freshwater streams.
Seeds are used to get rid of intestinal worms and the heated leaves are used to treat stomachache and rheumatism. Juice from the seeds are used to seal paper umbrellas and to kill lice and other external parasites.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
One of the first blooms to appear is the Crocus, sometimes peeking up through a layer of snow with the promise of spring. The Crocus plant grows from bulbs and is native to central and eastern Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and parts of Asia and China. They are adaptable flowers that have become part of the North American landscape, providing much needed late winter or early spring cheer. Growing Crocus in the home garden is easy if you know when to plant it.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You should purchase your Crocus bulbs in September or October but wait to plant them until soil temperatures are below 60°F (16°C). As a general rule, bulbs are planted in November. Crocus is hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8 but planting times will vary slightly depending when you receive your first freeze.
The bulbs should be in the ground before the first frost. Crocus need a chilling period of 12 to 16 weeks before blooming, so plan accordingly when growing it in your garden.
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance.
Plant the bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers.
When the flowers are spent, leave the foliage until it dies back to collect solar energy to feed the bulbs for the next bloom. Every two to three years, clumps should be divided in fall when they are dormant. Dig up the clump and cut it into pieces with several bulbs attached and at least four healthy stems.
Fertilize Crocus beds with a slow release fertilizer in fall according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Growing Conditions and General Care
You should purchase your Crocus bulbs in September or October but wait to plant them until soil temperatures are below 60°F (16°C). As a general rule, bulbs are planted in November. Crocus is hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8 but planting times will vary slightly depending when you receive your first freeze.
The bulbs should be in the ground before the first frost. Crocus need a chilling period of 12 to 16 weeks before blooming, so plan accordingly when growing it in your garden.
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance.
Plant the bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers.
When the flowers are spent, leave the foliage until it dies back to collect solar energy to feed the bulbs for the next bloom. Every two to three years, clumps should be divided in fall when they are dormant. Dig up the clump and cut it into pieces with several bulbs attached and at least four healthy stems.
Fertilize Crocus beds with a slow release fertilizer in fall according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Cirsium is a genus of perennial and biennial flowering plants in the Asteraceae, one of several genera known commonly as Thistles. They are more precisely known as Plume Thistles. Thistles are mostly native to Eurasia and northern Africa. All members of the genus have spiny, often handsome leaves and rounded heads of purple, red, pink, yellow or white flowers that somewhat resemble shaving brushes.
Certain species of Cirsium, like Cirsium monspessulanum, Cirsium pyrenaicum and Cirsium vulgare, have been traditionally used as food in rural areas of southern Europe. Cirsium oleraceum is cultivated as a food source in Japan and India. The word “Cirsium” derives from the Greek word kirsos meaning “swollen vein”. Thistles were used as a remedy against swollen veins. The flower blooms April to August.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The seeds of Cirsium can be sown in either autumn or after the last frost of spring. They should be sown at a depth of 0.12 inch (3 mm). If grown indoors first then Cirsium takes about 2 to 3 weeks to germinate at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 24 degrees Celsius). The seedlings should be planted out in early spring, when it is still possible to get a frost with a spacing of about 2 feet (60 cm).
Cirisium thrives in full sun and poor, average or reach soil that is moist but well drained. Plants require little care, but deadheading limits their tendency to self-sow. They generally self-sow only in moderation and unlike weedy thistles, the seedlings are easy to pull up. Use Thistles in mixed beds, herb gardens or meadowlike plantings.
Certain species of Cirsium, like Cirsium monspessulanum, Cirsium pyrenaicum and Cirsium vulgare, have been traditionally used as food in rural areas of southern Europe. Cirsium oleraceum is cultivated as a food source in Japan and India. The word “Cirsium” derives from the Greek word kirsos meaning “swollen vein”. Thistles were used as a remedy against swollen veins. The flower blooms April to August.
Growing Conditions and General Care
The seeds of Cirsium can be sown in either autumn or after the last frost of spring. They should be sown at a depth of 0.12 inch (3 mm). If grown indoors first then Cirsium takes about 2 to 3 weeks to germinate at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 24 degrees Celsius). The seedlings should be planted out in early spring, when it is still possible to get a frost with a spacing of about 2 feet (60 cm).
Cirisium thrives in full sun and poor, average or reach soil that is moist but well drained. Plants require little care, but deadheading limits their tendency to self-sow. They generally self-sow only in moderation and unlike weedy thistles, the seedlings are easy to pull up. Use Thistles in mixed beds, herb gardens or meadowlike plantings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Abelmoschus esculentus, also known as Okra is native to Africa and a beautiful relative of Hibiscus, was brought to North America in the 1600s. This tropical plant quickly became popular in the Deep South both as a side dish and as a thickening for gumbo and stews. It can, however, thrive in any climate where corn will grow. Depending on the cultivar, the large-flowered, fast-growing plants reach 2 to 6 feet (60 cm to 1.8 m) tall. Varieties with colorful stems and leaves, such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Burgundy’, make attractive garden borders.
Planting
Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously.
In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing
When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop.
Problems
Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting
About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
Planting
Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously.
In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing
When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop.
Problems
Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting
About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Adenium is a genus of flowering plants that originate from Africa. This genus contains approximately five species, although the genus name typically refers to Adenium obesum unless otherwise specified.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
This plant is a small succulent shrub that produces red and white flowers up to 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Adenium can grow outside in warm climates; it’s also a houseplant in colder climates. Cuttings are the most common method of propagating Adenium.
Things You’ll Need
Gardening trowel, planting pot, perlite, peat moss, liquid fertilizer, slow-release fertilizer and sand.
Instructions
Obtain an Adenium cutting from a nursery. The nursery typically takes a 5-inch (12.5 cm) cutting from the end of a living stem and dips the cut end in a rooting hormone.
Fill a medium-size planting pot with a mixture of two parts sand, two parts peat moss and one part perlite. Place the cut end of the Adenium cutting about 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the soil medium. Water the cutting immediately.
Water the Adenium cutting every three days. The cutting should take root in two to six weeks. Apply a liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season. Add a slow-release fertilizer in early summer and early fall. Adenium should achieve its adult size within three years.
Keep Adenium outside in full sun when the temperature is 80 degrees Fahrenheit (27 degrees Celsius) or higher. Move the plant to a southern windowsill in cooler weather. Adenium can be killed by prolonged temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit (2 degrees Celsius) or colder.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata, commonly called Jade Plant, is among the most common houseplants, although they are hardy outdoors to United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Native to southern Africa, this plant is easily recognized by its smooth, stubby, succulent leaves. They propagate easily from cuttings and because they are so tolerant of neglect, newly propagated Jade Plants make excellent gifts for new gardeners.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
Take a cutting approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) long from a stem of a mature Jade Plant. You can take multiple cuttings if you wish to propagate more than one plant. Each cutting should have at least two good sets of leaves.
Remove the bottom set of leaves from each cutting. Jade Plant leaves grow in pairs opposite each other on the stem.
Set the cuttings out to dry overnight to allow the cut ends of the plant to callous, reducing the chance of decay when planted in soil.
Dip the leaf nodes and cut ends into a rooting hormone powder, if desired. Rooting hormone encourages roots to develop faster, but isn’t required to successfully propagate Jade Plants.
Plant the cuttings in a potting mixture with plenty of drainage so that the bottom leaf nodes are buried in the soil. A potting mix with peat moss provides good drainage, but some gardeners prefer to propagate Jade Plants in moist sand.
Water the cuttings frequently to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Succulents such as Jade Plants store water in their leaves and may perform poorly with too much water.
Transplant the cuttings after a few weeks when the plants begin to grow or substantial root growth occurs. The plant’s energy is channeled to root development, so growth above the soil usually doesn’t occur at all until healthy roots are established. If the plant appears to be growing above the soil, this is a good sign that roots are well established and it’s time to transplant the new Jade Plant into a larger container.
Warning
Jade Plants are potentially invasive outdoors if pieces of the plant fall into natural areas. In order to prevent this problem, only plant jade plants outdoors in a controlled planting bed in USDA zones 10 and 11 and properly dispose of all plant pieces as they fall off the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Portulacaria afra, (known as Elephant Bush) is a perennial succulent native to South Africa. It thrives in Sunset Climate Zones 8 through 9 and 12 through 24. This plant reaches heights of 3 feet (90 cm) with a spread of 4 feet (1.2 m) and adapts to either full sun or shade. Elephant Bush also adapts to a range of soil and is not particular about the pH, but does require well-drained soil.
1. Cut a 4- to 6-inches (10- to 15-cm) cutting from the growing tip of your Elephant Bush with a clean sterilized razor blade. Pruning shears or scissors can bruise the stem causing delayed healing.
2. Remove the bottom leaves from the stem cutting, leaving a 2- to 4-inches (5- to 10-cm) section of the stem bare.
3. Dip the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) of the stem of your Elephant Bush cutting in rooting compound. Tap the stem against the container to remove excess powder. Many prefer to pour the rooting powder into a paper cup and then dispose of the excess powder and cup together. This prevents contaminating the container of rooting powder.
4. Place the cutting in a warm well-ventilated area to heal and form a callous. Healing time varies, but typically ranges from a few days to a week for Elephant Bush.
5. Mix four parts sand or perlite with one part potting soil and fill a 4-inch (10-cm) pot with the mixture. Firm the soil down with your hands to level the surface. This creates soil that drains well and provides good aeration for your cuttings.
6. Insert the stem of your Elephant Bush into the mixture to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Firm the soil around the stem of your cutting with your hands to secure it in the soil.
7. Add a 1/4- to 1/2-inch (0.6- to 1.2-cm) layer of gravel over the top of the pot to conserve water and prevent soil from spilling over the edges when watering.
8. Water to moisten the soil. Although Elephant Bush does not typically require frequent watering, it needs even moisture for young roots to grow.
9. Place your cutting in a sunny, warm, well-ventilated area. Move your Elephant Bush to its permanent location once roots have formed and the plant shows new growth.
1. Cut a 4- to 6-inches (10- to 15-cm) cutting from the growing tip of your Elephant Bush with a clean sterilized razor blade. Pruning shears or scissors can bruise the stem causing delayed healing.
2. Remove the bottom leaves from the stem cutting, leaving a 2- to 4-inches (5- to 10-cm) section of the stem bare.
3. Dip the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) of the stem of your Elephant Bush cutting in rooting compound. Tap the stem against the container to remove excess powder. Many prefer to pour the rooting powder into a paper cup and then dispose of the excess powder and cup together. This prevents contaminating the container of rooting powder.
4. Place the cutting in a warm well-ventilated area to heal and form a callous. Healing time varies, but typically ranges from a few days to a week for Elephant Bush.
5. Mix four parts sand or perlite with one part potting soil and fill a 4-inch (10-cm) pot with the mixture. Firm the soil down with your hands to level the surface. This creates soil that drains well and provides good aeration for your cuttings.
6. Insert the stem of your Elephant Bush into the mixture to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Firm the soil around the stem of your cutting with your hands to secure it in the soil.
7. Add a 1/4- to 1/2-inch (0.6- to 1.2-cm) layer of gravel over the top of the pot to conserve water and prevent soil from spilling over the edges when watering.
8. Water to moisten the soil. Although Elephant Bush does not typically require frequent watering, it needs even moisture for young roots to grow.
9. Place your cutting in a sunny, warm, well-ventilated area. Move your Elephant Bush to its permanent location once roots have formed and the plant shows new growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Crassula ovata commonly known as Jade Plant, Money Plant, Dollar Plant, Friendship Tree, Pink Joy or Lucky Plant, is a succulent plant with small pink or white flowers. It is native to South Africa and Mozambique, and is one of the most popular houseplants grown worldwide.
Jade Plant is often touted as one of the easiest plants to work with. It can be propagated easily and grows relatively quickly. It is tolerant of different soil types, and can survive in soil that is wetter than normal for short periods of time. For propagation, soil should be extremely fertile, and conditioned for moderate to low soil acidity.
How Jade Propagates
Commonly, Jade Plant is propagated from cuttings. You can root leaf or stem pieces, but be warned that leaves will take considerably longer to show any appreciable growth. For best results, use stem pieces that are 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) long. Jade Plant is a great survivor, so long as the soil is rich and alive.
Rooting
For the Jade Plant, start clippings in a planter or flower pot that you can move. The plant will need direct sunlight for at least 6 hours of the day, and it will be important to maintain the soil moisture. These conditions are best met with a portable plant, so use a flower pot filled with sifted compost, and move it as needed to get adequate sunlight.
Rich Soil Encourages Root Growth
For the fastest development from clippings, use pure sifted compost. Increasing the level of nutrients in the soil will make it easier for the Jade Plant to get the things it needs to put on new leaves and grow strong roots.
Jade Plant is often touted as one of the easiest plants to work with. It can be propagated easily and grows relatively quickly. It is tolerant of different soil types, and can survive in soil that is wetter than normal for short periods of time. For propagation, soil should be extremely fertile, and conditioned for moderate to low soil acidity.
How Jade Propagates
Commonly, Jade Plant is propagated from cuttings. You can root leaf or stem pieces, but be warned that leaves will take considerably longer to show any appreciable growth. For best results, use stem pieces that are 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) long. Jade Plant is a great survivor, so long as the soil is rich and alive.
Rooting
For the Jade Plant, start clippings in a planter or flower pot that you can move. The plant will need direct sunlight for at least 6 hours of the day, and it will be important to maintain the soil moisture. These conditions are best met with a portable plant, so use a flower pot filled with sifted compost, and move it as needed to get adequate sunlight.
Rich Soil Encourages Root Growth
For the fastest development from clippings, use pure sifted compost. Increasing the level of nutrients in the soil will make it easier for the Jade Plant to get the things it needs to put on new leaves and grow strong roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Dorstenia are a strange caudex forming genus of plants from north east Africa. They tend to spread out along the base, just above the soil and have some to many branches pointing upward. They usually have attractive green non-succulent leaves of various shapes depending on the species. Some species have sunflower like flowers that spray seeds all over your greenhouse. Small Dorstenia plants pop up in other pots. Dorstenia foetida does this and is the most common species found in the market place. However, most of the other species are extremely rare and somewhat difficult to grow. Dorstenia gigas, from the island of Socotra in the Arabian Sea, prefers a mild humid, but not rainy, coastal climate. It will wilt if exposed for extended periods to excessively high or low temperatures. Below is a short list of highly sought after Dorstenia species.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
Growing Conditions
Light: They needs bright light or partial to full shade.
Water: During the growing season, Dorstenia appreciate a fair amount of water but allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, making sure that they never dry out completely. During winter months they should be given very little water.
Hardiness Zones: 10b – 12b
Soil: Well-drained soil mix that must not remain soggy for too long.
Fertilizer: They are fertilized once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Propagation
Usually propagated by seed. Many species are self-fertile. Their seeds are expelled explosively from the mature seed heads and liable to populate pots several feet away. They can also be propagated by cuttings.
Pests and Problems
The spring weather, with a high temperature swing between the day and night hours, and pretty frequent rains, can favour the development of fungus diseases, which should be treated pre-emptively with a systemic fungicide.
At the end of the winter we suggest a wide range insecticide to prevent the attack of aphids and cochineals.
Grower’s Tips
Dorstenias are warm loving plants and they need a bit more water than regular succulents. They need well-drained soil mix and their water needs vary depending on the season of the year. Water regularly to abundant form spring to autumn. Allow the soil to dry slightly between watering, but make sure that they never dry out completely. During the winter months they tend to go at least partially dormant. During this period, water very little. Giving plants a warm, sunny position can result in beautiful compact growing plants. Fertilizing plants once in a while during their growing period with a high potash and phosphorus fertilizer is recommended.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Aloe plants are native to Africa and the surrounding regions, there are about 400 species in the genus. Of these, about five are commonly found in cultivation. The most famous is Aloe vera, which has been used medicinally for centuries. All plants are succulents, forming low rosettes of lance-shaped fleshy leaves or, in the case of Aloe arborescens, growing into a taller, bare-stemmed plant topped with 10-inch leaves.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions
Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation
During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.
Repotting
The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing.
Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips
Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it’s still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata and A. variegata.
Growing Conditions
Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF/21ºC to 80ºF/27ºC, but will survive down to 40ºF/4.5ºC.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.
Propagation
During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of Aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.
Repotting
The plants are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing.
Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.
Grower’s Tips
Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown plant can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it’s essential that it is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of A. vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Plants will almost never flower in cultivation.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
The succulent Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) grows wild in its native southern Africa, where it can reach 8 to 9 feet tall and spread about as wide. The fleshy oval leaves measure about 1 inch long at maturity. Mature stems are barklike, with softer tip growth. The plant responds to leaf pruning or removal by quickly sending out new, small leaves. Use this natural trait to your advantage with jade bonsai to keep the leaves in scale and to help keep a mature jade from becoming top-heavy.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need
Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners
Rubbing alcohol
Long tweezers
Copper wire, optional.
Tip
Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need
Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners
Rubbing alcohol
Long tweezers
Copper wire, optional.
Tip
Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Originally from Africa, the Jade Tree (Crassula ovata) is a fleshy, softly woody shrub or small tree up to 10 feet (3 m). The Jade Tree has a thick trunk and a fine branch structure with thick oval green succulent leaves. During autumn sometimes small white flowers appear, but only when the tree has experienced droughts in the season. The bark is green and soft when young, becoming red-brown when it ages.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
Specific Bonsai Care Guidelines for the Jade Tree
Position: The Jade Tree is considered an indoor tree in most temperate zones, although it can be grown outdoors in full sun (and sufficiently high temperatures). Keep temperatures above 41ºF (5 ºC) at all times. It needs lots of light or even full sun.
Watering: Jade Trees can hold large amounts of water inside their leaves. Water sparsely and allow the plant to dry out a little bit between watering. During winter time watering can be as seldom as once every three weeks. The Jade Tree is not as particular about over-watering as most other succulents.
Feeding: Once a month during the growth season (spring-autumn).
Pruning: As a succulent, water is contained its trunk and branches; they tend to bend from their weight. Jades respond well to pruning, which should be done regularly to force the tree to grow branches also lower on its trunk. Do not use cut-paste though, as this might lead to rotting.
Repotting: Repot the three every second year in spring, using a very well-draining soil mixture.
Propagation: Easy to propagate using cuttings during the summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Living Stones (Lithops) are unusual succulents that have evolved to resemble the pebbles and rocks that litter their native habitats through southern Africa. These very small plants hug the ground and grow extremely slowly. It can take years for a plant to eventually fill its pots with new leaves. Structurally, Lithops are comprised of two fused leaves above ground that connect to an underground stem with a long root.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Fenestraria (Baby Toes or Window Plant) is found in the winter rainfall region of southeastern Namibia and South Africa. The dwarf plants form mats or small clumps in sandy soil. The leaves are flat-topped and windowed, with generally only the uppermost portion exposed in the wild. They possess thick, fleshy roots.
The currently recognized species in this genus is F. rhopalophylla. Each leaf has a leaf window, a transparent window-like area, at its rounded tip, it is for these window-like structures that the genus is named (Latin: fenestra).
Because of their modest size, Fenestrarias are best grown in a pot, either by themselves or in a mixed succulent bowl.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Fenestraria prefer sandy soil and should be watered sparingly at all times to avoid root rot and split leaves. They need to be kept somewhat dry in the summer. Mix equals parts potting soil with pumice or perlite. Outdoors, grow in full to part sun; indoors, provide bright indirect light. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Fenestrarias are somewhat frost tolerant, but protection is advisable to prevent scarring.
Propagating
They are usually propagated by seed but sometimes by cuttings. Like many succulents, Fenestrarias produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster Fenestrarias are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
Pests and Diseases
Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot. Otherwise, this genus is pretty oblivious to pests and diseases.
The currently recognized species in this genus is F. rhopalophylla. Each leaf has a leaf window, a transparent window-like area, at its rounded tip, it is for these window-like structures that the genus is named (Latin: fenestra).
Because of their modest size, Fenestrarias are best grown in a pot, either by themselves or in a mixed succulent bowl.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Fenestraria prefer sandy soil and should be watered sparingly at all times to avoid root rot and split leaves. They need to be kept somewhat dry in the summer. Mix equals parts potting soil with pumice or perlite. Outdoors, grow in full to part sun; indoors, provide bright indirect light. Water thoroughly when soil is dry to the touch. Fenestrarias are somewhat frost tolerant, but protection is advisable to prevent scarring.
Propagating
They are usually propagated by seed but sometimes by cuttings. Like many succulents, Fenestrarias produces offsets as the clusters of leaves mature and spread. These are easy to divide from the main clump and will readily produce another plant. The seeds from the plant germinate sporadically and grow extremely slowly. Faster Fenestrarias are achieved by dividing off the side growth.
Pests and Diseases
Good drainage is essential to prevent root rot. Otherwise, this genus is pretty oblivious to pests and diseases.
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