文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents originally came from dry, arid areas such as deserts. There are also some succulents, such as Orchids, that do get rainfall, but they grow in branches or areas where the rain might not reach them so easily. Many succulents come from Africa and other areas that have long dry seasons and where plants have evolved ways of more effectively and efficiently storing and using water.
Succulents have been around for a long time, of course, and have been used as office plants and in indoor gardens for a long time. However, in recent years their popularity seems to have grown. The reasons for this are many:
They’re low maintenance. They require less watering and little to no pruning.
They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. This includes very tiny plants in small pots which can easily find a home on a desk.
They attract fewer pests. Many times plants bring about pests because of the constant need for watering. When you don’t have to water the plants as much, such as with succulents, the risk of pests reduces dramatically. The thick, waxy leaves of succulents are also more difficult for pests to penetrate and feed through.
They are easier for greenhouses and stores to sell. Since they can last a very long time without water they can sit on a truck for days, making transportation easier. Many succulents are very small, which allows growers to ship large numbers with lower freight costs. Some can even be packed in plastic bags and shipped across country. They can also be stored at the garden center much longer and last longer.
It’s very difficult for most to overgrow. One of the problems with some common indoor plants, like Pothos, is that they grow and eventually start to vine. This requires lots of maintenance and can be an inconvenience.
Succulents have been around for a long time, of course, and have been used as office plants and in indoor gardens for a long time. However, in recent years their popularity seems to have grown. The reasons for this are many:
They’re low maintenance. They require less watering and little to no pruning.
They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. This includes very tiny plants in small pots which can easily find a home on a desk.
They attract fewer pests. Many times plants bring about pests because of the constant need for watering. When you don’t have to water the plants as much, such as with succulents, the risk of pests reduces dramatically. The thick, waxy leaves of succulents are also more difficult for pests to penetrate and feed through.
They are easier for greenhouses and stores to sell. Since they can last a very long time without water they can sit on a truck for days, making transportation easier. Many succulents are very small, which allows growers to ship large numbers with lower freight costs. Some can even be packed in plastic bags and shipped across country. They can also be stored at the garden center much longer and last longer.
It’s very difficult for most to overgrow. One of the problems with some common indoor plants, like Pothos, is that they grow and eventually start to vine. This requires lots of maintenance and can be an inconvenience.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Pelargonium is a genus of flowering plants native to southern Africa and Australia, which includes about 200 species, commonly known as Geraniums (in the United States also Storksbills). Confusingly, Geranium is the botanical name (and also common name) of a separate genus of related plants often called Cranesbills. Both genera belong to the family Geraniaceae. Linnaeus originally included all the species in one genus, Geranium, and they were later separated into two genera by Charles L’Héritier in 1789.
Pelargonium occurs in a large number of growth forms, including herbaceous annuals, shrubs, subshrubs, stem succulents and geophytes. The erect stems bear five-petaled flowers in umbel-like clusters, which are occasionally branched. Leaves are usually alternate, and palmately lobed or pinnate, often on long stalks, and sometimes with light or dark patterns.
Some species are true succulents with water- storage tissues in the steams, a few species even appear to have succulent leaves, some are underground geophytes.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Most Pelargoniums are grown in pots in a green house or conservatory. They can also be grown inside the house, but need to be in the most sunniest area possible.
Many species do well when they are planted outside in an open area, so that they can become larger plants. This can be a problem though if you want to replant them in a pot for the winter months. Cuttings can be taken in the summer time instead to make new plants.
Succulent species grow well with other succulents and cacti. Pelargonium are very attractive and one of the toughest and most durable succulents.
Pelargoniums main requirement is a warm, sunny, sheltered location. Many species will tolerate drought conditions for short periods. They will show you when they wants water by producing a crop of new leaves, almost all species are winter growers. After the summer you can wait until the plant begins to grow, but you can also give them lights spryings or shower to stimulate their growth, when they are in full leaves they like water, but as always keep the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause unnatural growth.
Pelargonium occurs in a large number of growth forms, including herbaceous annuals, shrubs, subshrubs, stem succulents and geophytes. The erect stems bear five-petaled flowers in umbel-like clusters, which are occasionally branched. Leaves are usually alternate, and palmately lobed or pinnate, often on long stalks, and sometimes with light or dark patterns.
Some species are true succulents with water- storage tissues in the steams, a few species even appear to have succulent leaves, some are underground geophytes.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Most Pelargoniums are grown in pots in a green house or conservatory. They can also be grown inside the house, but need to be in the most sunniest area possible.
Many species do well when they are planted outside in an open area, so that they can become larger plants. This can be a problem though if you want to replant them in a pot for the winter months. Cuttings can be taken in the summer time instead to make new plants.
Succulent species grow well with other succulents and cacti. Pelargonium are very attractive and one of the toughest and most durable succulents.
Pelargoniums main requirement is a warm, sunny, sheltered location. Many species will tolerate drought conditions for short periods. They will show you when they wants water by producing a crop of new leaves, almost all species are winter growers. After the summer you can wait until the plant begins to grow, but you can also give them lights spryings or shower to stimulate their growth, when they are in full leaves they like water, but as always keep the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause unnatural growth.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata is a succulent native to South Africa and is commonly called the Jade Plant or Money Plant. It has jade green, egg-shaped leaves and bears small pink or white flowers. The jade plant is a favorite indoor plant that can grow into a small tree or shrub up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, although it can be easily trained into bonsai form. It will grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, but is better grown indoors in USDA zones below that where prolonged winter cold can kill it.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Lampranthus is a fairly large genus with 100-150 species coming from South Africa. It provides some of the most spectacular displays of bright flowers from the succulent world, and is widely used as ground cover, either annual or perennial as the climate allows. Several species are used for landscaping and vary from shrubby to trailing, and they also for the flowering period. All the species tend to become woody as they age.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches.
The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species.
Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods.
Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years.
For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation
The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
The genus name “Lampranthus” means “shining-flowers” in Latin, and the species of this genus have large, extremely bright flowers, of a range of colors (sometimes even bi-colored), that usually appear in summer, and frequently cover the plants entirely. The species of this genus typically have long, smooth, elongated, succulent leaves. These can be triangular or cylindrical, and appear in opposite pairs on the shrubs’ branches.
The spectacular flowers need full sun to open. As most mesemb, they are followed by woody capsules that open when wet, to insure propagation of the seeds at the best possible time.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Lampranthus are generally hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but this varies depending on the species.
Lampranthus thrive in well-drained, poor soils and are suitable for soils with a sandy or rocky texture, although they’ll grow in almost any soil type. They tolerate exposure to salt and grow in coastal conditions. Plant rooted cuttings in spring after the possibility of frost has passed. Space the cuttings 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) apart for trailing species, using closer spacings for quicker coverage. Dig a hole just a little larger than the roots at the cutting’s base. Put the roots in the hole, cover them with soil and tamp the soil firmly in place. For erect or mounding species, space them according to the mature dimensions for the particular species.
Water the plants immediately after planting, but then let the top inch of soil dry before watering again. Water the plants in this manner through the first spring and summer they are in place. They are drought-tolerant once established, when they will need watering only during extended dry periods.
Lampranthus need full sun to keep the growth from becoming leggy and for best flowering. They don’t need fertilizing, as that causes overgrowth of softer, weaker branches. After plants flower, prune off the old flowers and any developing fruits. Lampranthus are short-lived perennials and may need replacement after several years.
For container Lampranthus, use a cactus and succulent potting mix. Containers need watering throughout the year whenever the top layer of soil dries out. Plants can grow almost year-round in mild climates. Prune as needed any time of year to keep the plant to size. Bring containers indoors before the first frost is predicted.
Propagation
The propagation is by seed or cuttings. Seeds need warmth to germinate, 60°F (16°C) or more is suggested. Cuttings should be taken in summer. Six inch (15 cm) shoot stripped of their bottom leaves and planted in moist sand should rapidly root.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Othonna is a genus of more than 100 African plants in the Sunflower family (Asteraceae). These are evergreen or deciduous geophytes, dwarf succulents or shrubs concentrated in the Western Cape Province of South Africa and also in southern Namibia. A few species occur in summer rainfall parts of southern Africa. The genus is closely allied to Senecio and can be distinguished principally by details of the involucre.
The form or habit of Othonnas is very diverse. Leaf diversity is also notable in this genus. A few species possess highly succulent leaves (Othonna capensis, Othonna sedifolia) but most have bifacial leaves that are only slightly succulent. Size and shape is variable, with most species having leaves in the 0.4 to 4 inches (1 to 10 cm) long range.
The bright yellow (occasionally white or purple) flowers are the most distinguishing characteristic of the genus and the flowering times differ from different species. Some flower just before beginning their summer rest, and others flower after beginning growth in the fall.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Othonna plants have a variable range of habitats, some grow in a very hot, arid regions, but they avoid the intense desiccating rays of the north and west sun, growing between rocks in southern slopes. A few species, by contrary, grow in strong direct sunlight in arid situations that become very hot and dry as well as saturated for a few weeks during their growing period. All Othonnas grow in very open situations with plenty of free air circulation all around.
Othonnas fleshy leaves and daisy-like flowers make them excellent in a desert or rock garden (where hardy), or indoors as houseplants or greenhouse specimens.
Othonnas tend to be fairly hardy but some of them as Othonna cacalioides can be extremely difficult in cultivation if you do not give them the right conditions: space to develop radicular system, better to keep them in flat pots. In summer protect plants from direct sunlight. In growing season they like to be moist, fresh and plenty light. They don’t like temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
In the warmer months Othonnas go into their dormancy period, stop watering, place them in a shaded, cooler area, away from getting direct sunlight and with good air circulation, relatively dry. In the fall, sometime around early to mid October when nights cool down, the plants may start growing on their own, but a good soaking will help them to leaf out.
A typical succulent soil mix should be suitable for growing Othonnas but additional drainage material would be recommended.
Propagation
Start seed in spring at 64 to 70°F (18 to 21°C). Plants can also be propagated from basal or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer using bottom heat.
The form or habit of Othonnas is very diverse. Leaf diversity is also notable in this genus. A few species possess highly succulent leaves (Othonna capensis, Othonna sedifolia) but most have bifacial leaves that are only slightly succulent. Size and shape is variable, with most species having leaves in the 0.4 to 4 inches (1 to 10 cm) long range.
The bright yellow (occasionally white or purple) flowers are the most distinguishing characteristic of the genus and the flowering times differ from different species. Some flower just before beginning their summer rest, and others flower after beginning growth in the fall.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Othonna plants have a variable range of habitats, some grow in a very hot, arid regions, but they avoid the intense desiccating rays of the north and west sun, growing between rocks in southern slopes. A few species, by contrary, grow in strong direct sunlight in arid situations that become very hot and dry as well as saturated for a few weeks during their growing period. All Othonnas grow in very open situations with plenty of free air circulation all around.
Othonnas fleshy leaves and daisy-like flowers make them excellent in a desert or rock garden (where hardy), or indoors as houseplants or greenhouse specimens.
Othonnas tend to be fairly hardy but some of them as Othonna cacalioides can be extremely difficult in cultivation if you do not give them the right conditions: space to develop radicular system, better to keep them in flat pots. In summer protect plants from direct sunlight. In growing season they like to be moist, fresh and plenty light. They don’t like temperatures below 50°F (10°C).
In the warmer months Othonnas go into their dormancy period, stop watering, place them in a shaded, cooler area, away from getting direct sunlight and with good air circulation, relatively dry. In the fall, sometime around early to mid October when nights cool down, the plants may start growing on their own, but a good soaking will help them to leaf out.
A typical succulent soil mix should be suitable for growing Othonnas but additional drainage material would be recommended.
Propagation
Start seed in spring at 64 to 70°F (18 to 21°C). Plants can also be propagated from basal or semi-ripe cuttings in late summer using bottom heat.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Adenia is a genus of flowering plants in the Passion-flower family (Passifloraceae). It is distributed in the Old World tropics and subtropics. The centers of diversity are in Madagascar, eastern and western tropical Africa, and Southeast Asia. The genus name comes from “aden”, reported as the Arabic name for the plant by Peter Forsskål, the author of the genus.
Adenias have some very interesting characteristics. They are excellent members of the caudiciform succulents and some species can attain a base of more than 6.6 feet (2 m) wide. Most Adenia plants are vine growers and form a large canopy of heart shaped leaves that shade the base. Most Adenias have green trunks and branches. Some species have overlaid reds, browns, or purples that add to the beauty of the caudex. Adenias typically flower in the spring before the leaves appear.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adenia plants are summer growers and can be watered and fed regularly if planted in fast draining soil. Let the soil dry between watering if you are in a humid climate.
Most of your growth will be during the warm season and the plant will have the most leaves. The plant will also grow best with the leaves exposed to bright light, but the caudex shaded.
During the cool months protect the plant from frost to keep it alive. The plant normally rests during this period and water should be kept to a minimum. However, you can keep the plant active, if you can keep it above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Their sap is poisonous, and they should be handled with caution, particularly when pruning.
Propagation
Most cuttings do not produce a caudex so it is best to propagate by seeds. Adenias are either male or female so one of each is required to produce seeds.
Adenias have some very interesting characteristics. They are excellent members of the caudiciform succulents and some species can attain a base of more than 6.6 feet (2 m) wide. Most Adenia plants are vine growers and form a large canopy of heart shaped leaves that shade the base. Most Adenias have green trunks and branches. Some species have overlaid reds, browns, or purples that add to the beauty of the caudex. Adenias typically flower in the spring before the leaves appear.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adenia plants are summer growers and can be watered and fed regularly if planted in fast draining soil. Let the soil dry between watering if you are in a humid climate.
Most of your growth will be during the warm season and the plant will have the most leaves. The plant will also grow best with the leaves exposed to bright light, but the caudex shaded.
During the cool months protect the plant from frost to keep it alive. The plant normally rests during this period and water should be kept to a minimum. However, you can keep the plant active, if you can keep it above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Their sap is poisonous, and they should be handled with caution, particularly when pruning.
Propagation
Most cuttings do not produce a caudex so it is best to propagate by seeds. Adenias are either male or female so one of each is required to produce seeds.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Astroloba is a genus of flowering plants in the family Asphodelaceae, native to the Cape Province of South Africa. The name of the genus is derived from the Greek words “astros” (star), and “lobos” (lobe), and refers to the starlike shape of the petals, which appear at the end of the tube-like flowers.
They are very closely related to the Haworthia genus, but are distinguished by their flowers being regular and not double-tipped. The flowers are small and white, and appear clustered on slender racemes. Astrolobas bear very regular, sharp, triangular, succulent leaves along their symmetrical columnar stems. They are slow growing, multi-stemmed, and their longer stems tend to sprawl in their rocky natural habitat.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Astroloba plants are increasingly popular as succulent ornamental, due to the extraordinary beauty of their leaf structure. Some have intricate patterns of lines, margins, spots and raised tubercles on their leaves. Nearly all of them display a crystal-like regularity in their leaf arrangement. This is not always apparent in wild plants, which are usually disfigured by their harsh habitat.
In cultivation, Astrolobas are at their best when provided with some protection from full sun. In a semi-shade environment, with extremely well-drained soil and gentle conditions, Astrolobas can become remarkably beautiful and ornate.
Unfortunately, when conditions are not ideal, occasional random leaves can die, shrivel up and go brown, all along its stem. This is unfortunate because, as explained, much of the beauty of the plants comes from the intricate, crystalline pattern of their leaves. However this disfigurement can be avoided by keeping the plants in optimal, fertile conditions – growing steadily and sheltered from stress.
Propagation
All Astrolobas can be propagated by seed, by cuttings/offsets, and by division of clumps. Cuttings or offsets should be dried for several days to weeks, in a cool, shady environment, before being planted in well-drained sand. Seeds should be collected and sown on well-drained soil. It is optional to cover them with a very thin, fine layer of sand. Keep moist until they germinate, and continue to water regularly until they are relatively large and strong. Keep in a bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Hybrids can be made between all the Astroloba species (except for A. rubriflora, which has evolved a highly distinct chemistry in its flowers). Astrolobas can also be hybridized with other related genera, such as Tulista, Gasteria and Aloe.
They are very closely related to the Haworthia genus, but are distinguished by their flowers being regular and not double-tipped. The flowers are small and white, and appear clustered on slender racemes. Astrolobas bear very regular, sharp, triangular, succulent leaves along their symmetrical columnar stems. They are slow growing, multi-stemmed, and their longer stems tend to sprawl in their rocky natural habitat.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Astroloba plants are increasingly popular as succulent ornamental, due to the extraordinary beauty of their leaf structure. Some have intricate patterns of lines, margins, spots and raised tubercles on their leaves. Nearly all of them display a crystal-like regularity in their leaf arrangement. This is not always apparent in wild plants, which are usually disfigured by their harsh habitat.
In cultivation, Astrolobas are at their best when provided with some protection from full sun. In a semi-shade environment, with extremely well-drained soil and gentle conditions, Astrolobas can become remarkably beautiful and ornate.
Unfortunately, when conditions are not ideal, occasional random leaves can die, shrivel up and go brown, all along its stem. This is unfortunate because, as explained, much of the beauty of the plants comes from the intricate, crystalline pattern of their leaves. However this disfigurement can be avoided by keeping the plants in optimal, fertile conditions – growing steadily and sheltered from stress.
Propagation
All Astrolobas can be propagated by seed, by cuttings/offsets, and by division of clumps. Cuttings or offsets should be dried for several days to weeks, in a cool, shady environment, before being planted in well-drained sand. Seeds should be collected and sown on well-drained soil. It is optional to cover them with a very thin, fine layer of sand. Keep moist until they germinate, and continue to water regularly until they are relatively large and strong. Keep in a bright spot, but out of direct sunlight.
Hybrids can be made between all the Astroloba species (except for A. rubriflora, which has evolved a highly distinct chemistry in its flowers). Astrolobas can also be hybridized with other related genera, such as Tulista, Gasteria and Aloe.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Anacampseros is a genus consisting of a several species of small perennial succulent plants native to South Africa. The botanical name is an ancient one for herbs supposed to restore lost love. All form basal rosettes of smooth or hairy leaves in dense mats and develop a small caudex with age. White filamentous hairs are present along the stems. The wheel-shaped flowers vary from white to purple. The plants are self-fertile and produce seeds in a cup of upright filaments. They are dormant in winter.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Anacampseros grow well in partial sun with bright light enhancing the leaf colors and keeping them compact. They require a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering. The beautiful caudiciform species are prone to rot and should be watered very sparingly. Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application. Anacampseros is an excellent plant for container growing. It always looks good and stays small. It look fine in a cold greenhouse and frame. It do well outdoors in raised beds and terraces as well.
Anacampseros crinita
Anacampseros may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, watch carefully for any significant decline in health. This may signal a pest problem that should be dealt with quickly in order to prevent scarring, stunting and even death.
Repotting
Repot Anacampseros once a year in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Propagation
Anacampseros are easy to propagate either through stem cuttings or seed.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Anacampseros grow well in partial sun with bright light enhancing the leaf colors and keeping them compact. They require a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering. The beautiful caudiciform species are prone to rot and should be watered very sparingly. Feed with a high potassium fertilizer in summer during the growing season diluted to one-fourth potency and mix into the watering can for application. Anacampseros is an excellent plant for container growing. It always looks good and stays small. It look fine in a cold greenhouse and frame. It do well outdoors in raised beds and terraces as well.
Anacampseros crinita
Anacampseros may be attractive to a variety of insects, but plants in good condition should be nearly pest-free, particularly if they are grown in a mineral potting-mix, with good exposure and ventilation. Nonetheless, watch carefully for any significant decline in health. This may signal a pest problem that should be dealt with quickly in order to prevent scarring, stunting and even death.
Repotting
Repot Anacampseros once a year in order to evaluate the health of the plant and provide a larger growing space being careful not to damage the sensitive roots.
Propagation
Anacampseros are easy to propagate either through stem cuttings or seed.
3
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Sweet thorn is an attractive and fragrant tree native to southern parts of Africa. Read on to find out more about this lovely landscape tree that grows well under the most difficult Southwestern conditions.
Sweet Thorn Information
In their native South Africa, Acacia karoo trees are beneficial wildlife trees. Birds nest in them, and the flowers attract insects to feed the birds. Ten species of butterflies depend on the Acacia sweet thorn for their survival. The sweet gum that oozes from wounds in the bark is a favorite food of many species of wildlife, including the lesser bushbaby and monkeys. Despite the thorns, giraffes love to eat their leaves. Growers in Africa sell the gum as a gum arabic substitute and use the beans as goat and cattle forage. As a legume, the tree can fix nitrogen and improve the soil. It is often used to help restore ruined mine land and other degraded soil. The leaves, bark, gum and roots are used in a wide range of traditional remedies.
Growing Acacia Karroo Trees
Sweet thorns (Acacia karroo) are highly ornamental plants that you can grow as a multi-stemmed shrub, or prune to a tree with a single trunk. The plant grows 6 to 12 feet tall with a similar spread. In spring, the tree blooms with an abundance of fragrant, yellow flower clusters that resemble pompoms. The loose canopy allows dappled sunlight through so that grass can grow right up to the trunk. Sweet thorns make attractive specimens, and you can also grow them in containers. They look good on patios and decks, but they produce fierce thorns, so plant them where they won’t come in direct contact with people. A row of closely planted sweet thorn shrubs makes an impenetrable hedge. The trees are useful in helping to control erosion, and they grow well in poor, dry soil. Sweet thorns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Sweet Thorn Plant Care
Sweet thorn trees grow well in any soil as long as it is well-drained. It thrives in dry, arid soils found in the Southwestern U.S. Since it is a legume that can fix nitrogen, it doesn’t need nitrogen fertilizer. For the best growth, water newly planted trees regularly until they are established and growing. It helps to water the tree monthly during extended periods of drought, but under normal conditions, it doesn’t need supplemental irrigation.
If you want to grow the plant as a single-stemmed tree, prune it to a single trunk while it is young. Other than pruning, the only maintenance a sweet thorn tree needs is cleanup. It drops hundreds of 5-inch, brown seed pods in the fall.
Sweet Thorn Information
In their native South Africa, Acacia karoo trees are beneficial wildlife trees. Birds nest in them, and the flowers attract insects to feed the birds. Ten species of butterflies depend on the Acacia sweet thorn for their survival. The sweet gum that oozes from wounds in the bark is a favorite food of many species of wildlife, including the lesser bushbaby and monkeys. Despite the thorns, giraffes love to eat their leaves. Growers in Africa sell the gum as a gum arabic substitute and use the beans as goat and cattle forage. As a legume, the tree can fix nitrogen and improve the soil. It is often used to help restore ruined mine land and other degraded soil. The leaves, bark, gum and roots are used in a wide range of traditional remedies.
Growing Acacia Karroo Trees
Sweet thorns (Acacia karroo) are highly ornamental plants that you can grow as a multi-stemmed shrub, or prune to a tree with a single trunk. The plant grows 6 to 12 feet tall with a similar spread. In spring, the tree blooms with an abundance of fragrant, yellow flower clusters that resemble pompoms. The loose canopy allows dappled sunlight through so that grass can grow right up to the trunk. Sweet thorns make attractive specimens, and you can also grow them in containers. They look good on patios and decks, but they produce fierce thorns, so plant them where they won’t come in direct contact with people. A row of closely planted sweet thorn shrubs makes an impenetrable hedge. The trees are useful in helping to control erosion, and they grow well in poor, dry soil. Sweet thorns are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.
Sweet Thorn Plant Care
Sweet thorn trees grow well in any soil as long as it is well-drained. It thrives in dry, arid soils found in the Southwestern U.S. Since it is a legume that can fix nitrogen, it doesn’t need nitrogen fertilizer. For the best growth, water newly planted trees regularly until they are established and growing. It helps to water the tree monthly during extended periods of drought, but under normal conditions, it doesn’t need supplemental irrigation.
If you want to grow the plant as a single-stemmed tree, prune it to a single trunk while it is young. Other than pruning, the only maintenance a sweet thorn tree needs is cleanup. It drops hundreds of 5-inch, brown seed pods in the fall.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) is a true cedar that takes its name from the Atlas Mountains of Northern Africa, its native range. Blue Atlas (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’) is among the most popular cedar cultivars in this country, with its beautiful powdery blue needles. The weeping version, ‘Glauca Pendula,’ can be trained to grow like a vast umbrella of tree limbs. Read on for more information about Blue Atlas cedar trees and care.
Blue Atlas Cedar Care
The Blue Atlas cedar is a stately and majestic evergreen with a strong, vertical trunk and open, almost horizontal limbs. With its stiff, blue-green needles, it makes an exceptional specimen tree for big backyards.
Blue Atlas cedar care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. If you decide to plant a Blue Atlas cedar, give it plenty of room to spread out. The trees don’t thrive in restricted space. They are also most attractive if they have sufficient room for their branches to fully extend and if you don’t remove their lower branches. Plant these cedars in the sun or in partial shade. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. In California or Florida, they can also be planted in zone 9. The trees grow fast at first and then slower as they age. Select a growing site sufficiently large for the tree to get to 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide.
Caring for Weeping Blue Atlas Cedars
Nurseries create weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees by grafting the ‘Glauca Pendula’ cultivar onto the Cedrus atlantica species rootstock. While weeping Blue Atlas cedars have the same powdery blue-green needles as upright Blue Atlas, the branches on the weeping cultivars droop unless you tie them up on stakes. Planting a weeping Blue Atlas cedar, with its drooping, twisted branches, gives you an unusual and spectacular specimen tree. This cultivar is likely to grow about 10 feet high and twice as wide, depending on how you decide to train it.
Consider planting weeping Blue Atlas cedars in a rock garden. Rather than staking the branches to create a shape, you can allow them to mound and spread. If you take care when planting, caring for a weeping Blue Atlas cedar should not be too difficult. The trees only require abundant irrigation the first year, and are drought tolerant when mature. Think through how you want to train the tree before you plant it. You’ll have to stake and train weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees from the time you plant them to create the form you have selected.
For best results, try planting in full sun in well-draining, loamy soil. Feed weeping blue Atlas cedars in early spring with a balanced fertilizer.
Blue Atlas Cedar Care
The Blue Atlas cedar is a stately and majestic evergreen with a strong, vertical trunk and open, almost horizontal limbs. With its stiff, blue-green needles, it makes an exceptional specimen tree for big backyards.
Blue Atlas cedar care starts with selecting an appropriate planting location. If you decide to plant a Blue Atlas cedar, give it plenty of room to spread out. The trees don’t thrive in restricted space. They are also most attractive if they have sufficient room for their branches to fully extend and if you don’t remove their lower branches. Plant these cedars in the sun or in partial shade. They thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. In California or Florida, they can also be planted in zone 9. The trees grow fast at first and then slower as they age. Select a growing site sufficiently large for the tree to get to 60 feet tall and 40 feet wide.
Caring for Weeping Blue Atlas Cedars
Nurseries create weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees by grafting the ‘Glauca Pendula’ cultivar onto the Cedrus atlantica species rootstock. While weeping Blue Atlas cedars have the same powdery blue-green needles as upright Blue Atlas, the branches on the weeping cultivars droop unless you tie them up on stakes. Planting a weeping Blue Atlas cedar, with its drooping, twisted branches, gives you an unusual and spectacular specimen tree. This cultivar is likely to grow about 10 feet high and twice as wide, depending on how you decide to train it.
Consider planting weeping Blue Atlas cedars in a rock garden. Rather than staking the branches to create a shape, you can allow them to mound and spread. If you take care when planting, caring for a weeping Blue Atlas cedar should not be too difficult. The trees only require abundant irrigation the first year, and are drought tolerant when mature. Think through how you want to train the tree before you plant it. You’ll have to stake and train weeping Blue Atlas cedar trees from the time you plant them to create the form you have selected.
For best results, try planting in full sun in well-draining, loamy soil. Feed weeping blue Atlas cedars in early spring with a balanced fertilizer.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Native to the desert climates of the Arabian Peninsula and South Africa, pig’s ear succulent plant (Cotyledon orbiculata) is a hardy succulent with fleshy, oval, red-rimmed leaves that resemble a pig’s ear. Bell-shaped orange, yellow or red blooms grow atop tall, 24-inch stems in late summer or early autumn. Pig’s ear plant may reach heights of 4 feet at maturity. Keep reading for tips on growing pig’s ear plants and their subsequent care.
Growing Pig’s Ear Plants
Often known simply as a cotyledon pig’s ear plant, it is well suited for nearly any dry area of the garden, including rock gardens, succulent beds, hanging baskets or window boxes. Pig’s ear succulent plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b through 12. If you live in a cool climate north of zone 9, cotyledon plant does just fine indoors. Cotyledon pig’s ear prefers a sunny location, but tolerates partial shade. Be sure the soil drains well and allow at least 24 inches around the plant, as succulents require excellent air circulation to prevent rot and other diseases.
Pig’s Ear Plant Care
Water pig’s ear succulent plant deeply when the soil is dry, then let the soil dry before watering again. In its natural environment, the plant needs very little water – only enough to survive. Too little water is preferable to too much. Pig’s ear requires very little fertilizer, and a light feeding in late spring is sufficient. Use a highly diluted, general-purpose fertilizer. Water well after feeding, as fertilizing dry soil can scorch the roots. To keep the plant healthy and support continued growth, remove blooms, along with the stalk, as soon as the flowers wilt. Pig’s ear plant care isn’t complicated, as the plant isn’t fussy. However, keep watch for snails and slugs, which are easy to spot by the chewed holes in the leaves and by the silvery, slimy trail they leave behind. Keep the area clean and free of debris. Apply slug bait or use snail traps, if necessary.
Growing Pig’s Ear Plants
Often known simply as a cotyledon pig’s ear plant, it is well suited for nearly any dry area of the garden, including rock gardens, succulent beds, hanging baskets or window boxes. Pig’s ear succulent plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b through 12. If you live in a cool climate north of zone 9, cotyledon plant does just fine indoors. Cotyledon pig’s ear prefers a sunny location, but tolerates partial shade. Be sure the soil drains well and allow at least 24 inches around the plant, as succulents require excellent air circulation to prevent rot and other diseases.
Pig’s Ear Plant Care
Water pig’s ear succulent plant deeply when the soil is dry, then let the soil dry before watering again. In its natural environment, the plant needs very little water – only enough to survive. Too little water is preferable to too much. Pig’s ear requires very little fertilizer, and a light feeding in late spring is sufficient. Use a highly diluted, general-purpose fertilizer. Water well after feeding, as fertilizing dry soil can scorch the roots. To keep the plant healthy and support continued growth, remove blooms, along with the stalk, as soon as the flowers wilt. Pig’s ear plant care isn’t complicated, as the plant isn’t fussy. However, keep watch for snails and slugs, which are easy to spot by the chewed holes in the leaves and by the silvery, slimy trail they leave behind. Keep the area clean and free of debris. Apply slug bait or use snail traps, if necessary.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Known by a multitude of names depending on where it’s cultivated, Ensete false banana plants are an important food crop in many parts of Africa. Ensete ventricosum cultivation can be found in the countries of Ethiopia, Malawi, throughout South Africa, Kenya and Zimbabwe. Let’s learn more about false banana plants.
What is False Banana?
A valuable food crop, Ensete ventricosum cultivation provides more food per square meter than any other cereal. Known as “false banana,” Ensete false banana plants look just like their namesakes, only larger (12 meters high), with leaves that are more erect, and inedible fruit. The large leaves are lance shaped, arrayed in a spiral and are bright green struck with a red midrib. The “trunk” of Ensete false banana plant is really three separate sections.
So what is false banana used for? Inside this meter-thick trunk or “pseudo-stem” lays the main product of starchy pith, which is pulped and then fermented while buried underground for three to six months. The resulting product is called “kocho,” which is a bit like heavy bread and is eaten with milk, cheese, cabbage, meat and or coffee. The resultant Ensete false banana plants provide not only food, but fiber for making ropes and mats. False banana also has medicinal uses in the healing of wounds and bone breaks, enabling them to heal more quickly.
Additional Information About False Banana
This traditional staple crop is highly drought resistant, and in fact, can live up to seven years without water. This provides a reliable food source for the people and ensures no famine period during the drought. Ensete takes four to five years to reach maturation; therefore, plantings are staggered to maintain an available harvest for each season. While wild Ensete is produced from seed propagation, Ensete ventricosum cultivation occurs from suckers, with up to 400 suckers produced from one mother plant. These plants are cultivated in a mixed system interspersing grains like wheat and barley or sorghum, coffee and animals with the Ensete ventricosum cultivation.
Ensete’s Role in Sustainable Farming
Ensete acts as a host plant to such crops as coffee. Coffee plants are planted in Ensete’s shade and are nurtured by the vast water reservoir of its fibrous torso. This makes for a symbiotic relationship; a win/win for the farmer of a food crop and cash crop in a sustainable manner. Although a traditional food plant in many parts of Africa, not every culture there cultivates it. Its introduction into more of these areas is extremely important and may be the key to nutritional security, engender rural development and support sustainable land use. As a transitional crop replacing such environmentally damaging species as Eucalyptus, the Ensete plant is seen as a great boon. Proper nutrition is necessary and has been shown to foster higher levels of education, health of course, and general prosperity.
What is False Banana?
A valuable food crop, Ensete ventricosum cultivation provides more food per square meter than any other cereal. Known as “false banana,” Ensete false banana plants look just like their namesakes, only larger (12 meters high), with leaves that are more erect, and inedible fruit. The large leaves are lance shaped, arrayed in a spiral and are bright green struck with a red midrib. The “trunk” of Ensete false banana plant is really three separate sections.
So what is false banana used for? Inside this meter-thick trunk or “pseudo-stem” lays the main product of starchy pith, which is pulped and then fermented while buried underground for three to six months. The resulting product is called “kocho,” which is a bit like heavy bread and is eaten with milk, cheese, cabbage, meat and or coffee. The resultant Ensete false banana plants provide not only food, but fiber for making ropes and mats. False banana also has medicinal uses in the healing of wounds and bone breaks, enabling them to heal more quickly.
Additional Information About False Banana
This traditional staple crop is highly drought resistant, and in fact, can live up to seven years without water. This provides a reliable food source for the people and ensures no famine period during the drought. Ensete takes four to five years to reach maturation; therefore, plantings are staggered to maintain an available harvest for each season. While wild Ensete is produced from seed propagation, Ensete ventricosum cultivation occurs from suckers, with up to 400 suckers produced from one mother plant. These plants are cultivated in a mixed system interspersing grains like wheat and barley or sorghum, coffee and animals with the Ensete ventricosum cultivation.
Ensete’s Role in Sustainable Farming
Ensete acts as a host plant to such crops as coffee. Coffee plants are planted in Ensete’s shade and are nurtured by the vast water reservoir of its fibrous torso. This makes for a symbiotic relationship; a win/win for the farmer of a food crop and cash crop in a sustainable manner. Although a traditional food plant in many parts of Africa, not every culture there cultivates it. Its introduction into more of these areas is extremely important and may be the key to nutritional security, engender rural development and support sustainable land use. As a transitional crop replacing such environmentally damaging species as Eucalyptus, the Ensete plant is seen as a great boon. Proper nutrition is necessary and has been shown to foster higher levels of education, health of course, and general prosperity.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
What are capers and how are they used? Capers, unopened flower buds found on the caper bush, are the culinary darlings of many cuisines. Capers can be found in European foods and in those of Africa and India as well, where cultivation of growing capers is found. Growing a caper bush, however, is not an easy task.
What are Capers?
Caper plants (Capparis spinosa) are usually found growing wild in the Mediterranean in dry stony areas similar to those where olives are grown. Capers grow in viney brambles, much like blackberries do in North America. Cultivation of a caper bush is most often found in Spain and Africa, but in the past, Southern Russia was also an exporter. Growing capers are, as mentioned, the buds of a shrub-like perennial (3 to 5 feet high) which has a multitude of spiny branches bearing 2-inch white flowers with purple stamens.
What are Capers Used For?
So how are capers used? The tiny buds of the caper bush, or Capparis spinosa, are picked on a daily basis and then pickled in vinegar or otherwise brined in salt. The resulting flavor of the caper berry is strong and distinct–like that of mustard and black pepper–due to its concentration of mustard oil, which is released when the plant tissue is crushed. This piquant flavor and aroma lends itself well to a variety of sauces, pizza, fish meats and salads. The immature leaves growing on a caper bush may even be eaten as a cooked vegetable and the burnt remnants of the growing caper bush roots have been utilized as a salt substitute. Caper fruits (caperberry, capperone, or taperone) may be used in making caper-flavored sauces, or sometimes pickled for eating like small gherkins. A caper bush also has medicinal uses. Growing capers may be harvested to aid in eliminating flatulence, improving liver function, or for its anti-rheumatic effects. An age-old remedy, growing capers have also been reputed to be useful in treating arteriosclerosis, kidney ailments, diuretics, anemia, arthritis, gout and dropsy.
How to Grow Capers from Seed
Growing a caper bush can be achieved via propagation from seed, although finding a seed source is more of a challenge. If seed for growing capers is located, one may try growing them in a large pot with a base of coarse rock or crumbled brick. Take care not to overwater as the plant’s foliage is a natural water conservator. Caper seeds are very tiny and germinate readily but in low percentiles. Dried seeds are more difficult to germinate and should be soaked for one day in warm water, then wrapped in damp towel, sealed in a jar and refrigerated for two to three months. Post refrigeration, re-soak seeds overnight and then plant at a depth of 1 cm in well drained medium.
How to Grow Capers from Cuttings
Collect growing caper berry cuttings in February, March or April using basal portions with six to 10 buds. For growing a caper bush, seat cuttings in a loose, well-draining soil medium with a heat source at the base. Dipping the stem cutting in a bit of rooting hormone first is also beneficial.
Caring for Caper Plants
Caring for caper plants requires a steady stream of strong sunlight and an arid climate. Growing caper plants have a hardiness range similar to olive trees (18 degrees F. or -8 degrees C.) and can also tolerate summer temperatures of over 105 degrees F. (41 degrees C.). When growing a caper bush, the plant itself is quite tolerant and develops deep root systems, the better to avail itself of its resources in a difficult environment. When harvesting, size matters. Growing capers are divided into five distinct groups. When growing a caper bush, buds are picked at the immature stage and categorized according to size: nonpareils, capuchins, capotes, seconds, and thirds—with the nonpareils being the most prized — and most expensive. In Italy, capers are graded on a scale from 7 to 16, which indicates their size in millimeters.
What are Capers?
Caper plants (Capparis spinosa) are usually found growing wild in the Mediterranean in dry stony areas similar to those where olives are grown. Capers grow in viney brambles, much like blackberries do in North America. Cultivation of a caper bush is most often found in Spain and Africa, but in the past, Southern Russia was also an exporter. Growing capers are, as mentioned, the buds of a shrub-like perennial (3 to 5 feet high) which has a multitude of spiny branches bearing 2-inch white flowers with purple stamens.
What are Capers Used For?
So how are capers used? The tiny buds of the caper bush, or Capparis spinosa, are picked on a daily basis and then pickled in vinegar or otherwise brined in salt. The resulting flavor of the caper berry is strong and distinct–like that of mustard and black pepper–due to its concentration of mustard oil, which is released when the plant tissue is crushed. This piquant flavor and aroma lends itself well to a variety of sauces, pizza, fish meats and salads. The immature leaves growing on a caper bush may even be eaten as a cooked vegetable and the burnt remnants of the growing caper bush roots have been utilized as a salt substitute. Caper fruits (caperberry, capperone, or taperone) may be used in making caper-flavored sauces, or sometimes pickled for eating like small gherkins. A caper bush also has medicinal uses. Growing capers may be harvested to aid in eliminating flatulence, improving liver function, or for its anti-rheumatic effects. An age-old remedy, growing capers have also been reputed to be useful in treating arteriosclerosis, kidney ailments, diuretics, anemia, arthritis, gout and dropsy.
How to Grow Capers from Seed
Growing a caper bush can be achieved via propagation from seed, although finding a seed source is more of a challenge. If seed for growing capers is located, one may try growing them in a large pot with a base of coarse rock or crumbled brick. Take care not to overwater as the plant’s foliage is a natural water conservator. Caper seeds are very tiny and germinate readily but in low percentiles. Dried seeds are more difficult to germinate and should be soaked for one day in warm water, then wrapped in damp towel, sealed in a jar and refrigerated for two to three months. Post refrigeration, re-soak seeds overnight and then plant at a depth of 1 cm in well drained medium.
How to Grow Capers from Cuttings
Collect growing caper berry cuttings in February, March or April using basal portions with six to 10 buds. For growing a caper bush, seat cuttings in a loose, well-draining soil medium with a heat source at the base. Dipping the stem cutting in a bit of rooting hormone first is also beneficial.
Caring for Caper Plants
Caring for caper plants requires a steady stream of strong sunlight and an arid climate. Growing caper plants have a hardiness range similar to olive trees (18 degrees F. or -8 degrees C.) and can also tolerate summer temperatures of over 105 degrees F. (41 degrees C.). When growing a caper bush, the plant itself is quite tolerant and develops deep root systems, the better to avail itself of its resources in a difficult environment. When harvesting, size matters. Growing capers are divided into five distinct groups. When growing a caper bush, buds are picked at the immature stage and categorized according to size: nonpareils, capuchins, capotes, seconds, and thirds—with the nonpareils being the most prized — and most expensive. In Italy, capers are graded on a scale from 7 to 16, which indicates their size in millimeters.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Lithops plants are often called “living stones” but they also look a bit like cloven hooves. These small, split succulents are native to the deserts of South Africa but they are commonly sold in garden centers and nurseries. Lithops thrive in compacted, sandy soil with little water and blistering hot temperatures. While relatively easy to grow, a little information on lithops will help you learn how to grow living stone plants so that they thrive in your home.
Information on Lithops
There are numerous colorful names for plants in the Lithops genus. Pebble plants, mimicry plants, flowering stones, and of course, living stones are all descriptive monikers for a plant that has a unique form and growth habit.
Lithops are small plants, rarely getting more than an inch above the soil surface and usually with only two leaves. The thick padded leaves represent the cleft in an animal’s foot or just a pair of green to grayish brown stones clustered together. The plants have no true stem and much of the plant is underground. The resulting appearance has the double attribute of confusing grazing animals and conserving moisture.
Lithops Succulent Adaptations
below ground, it has minimal foliar space to gather sun’s energy. As a result, the plant has developed a unique way of enhancing solar collection by means of “windowpanes” on the surface of the leaf. These transparent areas are filled with calcium oxalate, which creates a reflective facet that increases light penetration. Another fascinating adaptation of lithops is the long life of the seed capsules. Moisture is infrequent in their native habitat, so the seeds can remain viable in the soil for months.
How to Grow Living Stones Plants
Growing living stones in pots is preferred for most but the hottest zones. Lithops need a cactus mix or potting soil with some sand incorporated. The potting media needs to dry before you add moisture and you must place the pot in as bright an area as possible. Place the plant in a southern facing window for optimum light entry. Propagation is through division or seed, although seed grown plants take many months to establish and years before they resemble the parent plant. You can find both seeds and starts on the Internet or at succulent nurseries. Adult plants are common at even big box nurseries.
Lithops Care
Lithops care is easy as long as you remember what type of climate the plant originates from and mimic those growing conditions. Be very careful, when growing living stones, not to overwater. These little succulents do not need to be watered in their dormant season, which is fall to spring. If you wish to encourage flowering, add a diluted cactus fertilizer in spring when you commence watering again. Lithops plants do not have many pest problems, but they may get scale, moisture gnats and several fungal diseases. Watch for signs of discoloration and evaluate your plant often for immediate treatment.
Information on Lithops
There are numerous colorful names for plants in the Lithops genus. Pebble plants, mimicry plants, flowering stones, and of course, living stones are all descriptive monikers for a plant that has a unique form and growth habit.
Lithops are small plants, rarely getting more than an inch above the soil surface and usually with only two leaves. The thick padded leaves represent the cleft in an animal’s foot or just a pair of green to grayish brown stones clustered together. The plants have no true stem and much of the plant is underground. The resulting appearance has the double attribute of confusing grazing animals and conserving moisture.
Lithops Succulent Adaptations
below ground, it has minimal foliar space to gather sun’s energy. As a result, the plant has developed a unique way of enhancing solar collection by means of “windowpanes” on the surface of the leaf. These transparent areas are filled with calcium oxalate, which creates a reflective facet that increases light penetration. Another fascinating adaptation of lithops is the long life of the seed capsules. Moisture is infrequent in their native habitat, so the seeds can remain viable in the soil for months.
How to Grow Living Stones Plants
Growing living stones in pots is preferred for most but the hottest zones. Lithops need a cactus mix or potting soil with some sand incorporated. The potting media needs to dry before you add moisture and you must place the pot in as bright an area as possible. Place the plant in a southern facing window for optimum light entry. Propagation is through division or seed, although seed grown plants take many months to establish and years before they resemble the parent plant. You can find both seeds and starts on the Internet or at succulent nurseries. Adult plants are common at even big box nurseries.
Lithops Care
Lithops care is easy as long as you remember what type of climate the plant originates from and mimic those growing conditions. Be very careful, when growing living stones, not to overwater. These little succulents do not need to be watered in their dormant season, which is fall to spring. If you wish to encourage flowering, add a diluted cactus fertilizer in spring when you commence watering again. Lithops plants do not have many pest problems, but they may get scale, moisture gnats and several fungal diseases. Watch for signs of discoloration and evaluate your plant often for immediate treatment.
1
3
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Spider plants form from thick tubers with a tangled root mass. They are native to tropical South Africa where they thrive in hot conditions. A spider plant with swollen roots may be pot bound, require more soil or showing evidence of a strange adaptation found in these and many other plants. A quick repotting should determine which the case is. As long as the tubers and roots are healthy, the plant is in no danger and will thrive.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
Yes, a Spider Plant Has Tubers
Spider plants are old-fashioned indoor plants in the lily family, Liliaceae. These plants have been handed down from generation to generation and are important heritage plants to many families. The spiderettes that form on the ends of the spider plant stolons can be divided away and started as new plants. Thick roots will form quickly on the spiderettes, even if they are taken from the mother. However, a mature spider plant with swollen roots may also indicate a unique storage organ has formed on your plant.
Spider plants form dense, fleshy clusters of tubers. These are the source of the shoots and leaves and are companions of the root system. Tubers are white, smooth, twisting masses which may push to the surface of the soil. If most of the tuber mass is under the soil, one or two visible tubers shouldn’t cause the plant any harm.
When a spider plant has tubers in numbers that are highly visible, it may be time for a new pot or simply a topping of good soil. Over time, watering can flush some of the soil from the container making the level low. When repotting, wash the thick spider plant roots gently before nestling them into the soil.
The spiderettes on the ends of spider plant stolons will form fat, roots. This is natural and, in the wild, the babies would simply root a bit away from the mother. In this way, the plant spreads vegetatively. Sometimes, stressed plants can form tuber-like water storage organs. This is a natural adaptation and useful in their native region.
Other organs which appear to be tubers are the fruit. It is very unusual for a spider plant to flower and even more unusual for them to produce fruit, as it is usually aborted. If the plant produces fruit, it will appear as leather, 3-lobed capsules.
Are Spider Plant Roots Edible?
Spider plants are in the lily family and closely related to daylilies, whose roots are edible. Are spider plant roots edible? There seems to be some evidence that the tubers are not toxic but can cause problems in small animals in large doses. Of course, almost anything can be toxic in huge amounts as compared to body size. It’s probably wise to leave the tubers untouched and enjoy the plant, but if you are wildly curious, check with your local poison control center to verify that the plant is not on the list of concerns. The beauty of the plant will endure more surely if you leave those thick spider plant roots and tubers alone.
0
0
