文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Stapelia comprises a challenging and rewarding group of some 50 species of clump-forming stem succulents from southern Africa. The leafless four-angled stems have toothed edges and may be pubescent. Stems grow erect, branching mainly from the base, and may develop a reddish colour in strong sunlight.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers.
The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun.
A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers.
The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun.
A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Titanopsis is a small genus of dwarf succulents from the family of Aizoaceae. Naturally growing in the Upper Karoo in South Africa, it is an attractive but quite unusual plant because of its formation. The plant grows as a dwarf succulent and produces thick truncated leaves that have crumpled surface. These unusual leaves display all the hues of red, purple, green, cream and blue throughout the year. Flowers appear in late fall and winter. Like its cousins in the Aizoaceae family, Titanopsis produces small daisy-like flowers of yellow color.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Titanopsis grows to form clumps. These clumps can be divided for further propagation of the plant.
The maintenance of Titanopsis is not difficult. They need a sandy substrate with little organic material. They are winter grower, and should be kept relatively dry in summer. They should also be kept dry when the temperature is below 45° F (7° C).
The best place to grow T. calcarea – the more popular species from the eastern areas is a sunny spot where it gets bright sunlight in summer and direct exposure to the sun in winter. Other popular species of Titanopsis include: T. fulleri and T. primosii.
Propagation
Division of larger clumps is possible in some cases, but as most species have tuberous rootstocks and offset slowly, seed production is the most common method of propagation. Sow it in spring and it should start flowering after two years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Cotyledon is a genus of 10 species of perennial shrubby leaf and stem succulents with numerous varieties and cultivars. Mostly from Southern Africa, they also occur throughout the drier parts of Africa as far north as the Arabian peninsula. Cotyledon has been a catch-all genus including species from Echeveria, Rosularia, Tylecodon and Umbilicus, now all grouped separately. Tölken (1978) separated 47 species of Tylecodon with seasonal, spirally-arranged leaves from Cotyledon with perennial leaves. The name Tylecodon is an angram of Cotyledon.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer.
Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer.
Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape.
Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous.
As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet.
Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label.
Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems
Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
Members of the genus are shrublets, generally succulent, with fleshily woody, brittle stems and persistent succulent leaves. The leaves are opposite. Leaf pairs generally are oriented at 90 degrees to their preceding and following pairs, as is common in the family Crassulaceae, but the leaf habit differs. They are varied in appearance but all have tubular flowers with curled tips that are typically coloured orange or coral pink. They flower mostly in summer.
Cotyledons generally colonise rocky ground and cliff faces, a clue that they appreciate well-drained conditions in cultivation. The fleshy leaves of some species (C. ladismithiensis) are slightly pubescent or farinose (C. orbiculata). The orange flowers of Adromischus phillipsiae are similar to those of Cotyledon, with which it was once grouped. These plants should be regarded as poisonous as the closely related Tylecodons.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Cotyledons can be divided into two groups. One group consists of evergreen plants with a summer growing period. The other group is made up of deciduous plants, splendidly magnificent with large, solid fleshy stems like C. paniculata. The second group grows during the winter, and sheds its leaves during the summer.
Cotyledons require a free-draining gritty mix and plenty of sun. They are tolerant of cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. Some require pruning to maintain an attractive shape.
Cotyledons should be kept in a sunny position. Follow general succulent watering procedures. Be careful of over-watering when Cotyledons are deciduous.
As succulents go, Cotyledons certainly are rewarding garden and indoor subjects, practically independent of irrigation in all but full desert conditions, though they cannot survive poor light or bad drainage in the wet.
Feed it once or twice during the growing season with a fertilizer specifically formulated for cactus and succulents (poor in nitrogen), including all micro nutrients and trace elements diluted to ½ the strength recommended on the label.
Though not spectacular, they are elegantly decorative and often interesting in shape. The inflorescences of the larger species often make fine components of dried arrangements in floral design.
Pests and Problems
Their main enemies are sucking bugs.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Adromischus is a genus of at least 28 species of small clumping leaf succulents from South Africa. Prior to revision of the genus by Tölken a larger number of species were recognised. Many of these older names are currently regarded as synonymous with a range of forms combined into a smaller number of somewhat variable species. Adromischus marianae is particularly variable across its range, reflecting combination of plants with markedly different appearance into a single species. Some natural hybrids are known.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones.
Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation
Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
The attractively marked and coloured leaves of many species appeal to collectors but require high light levels for the different colours to be seen to full advantage. In shade most species adopt a similar green colour. As the plants age, some elongate losing leaves lower down their thickened stems. Opinions vary as to the merits of mature plants compared with smaller ones.
Adromischus flowers are generally small, with a greenish-white tube and pink or reddish corolla and produce sufficient nectar to start a fungal infection, especially towards the end of the growing season. As the flowers are not showy, many growers cut off the developing flower stems to avoid botrytis. The only species worth growing for its flowers is Adromischus phillipsiae, which has relatively large showy orange tubular flowers, reminiscent of flowers of Cotyledons to which Adromischus is closely related and with which it was once grouped.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Many species are easy to grow in any free-draining gritty compost. Their compact habit allows a collection to be maintained in a small space and they grow well on any sunny window ledge or the top shelf of the greenhouse. Water mostly in spring/autumn and let them dry out between waterings. Adromischus tolerate cool, frost-free conditions during the winter if kept dry. It is as well to keep water off the foliage during the winter. Mealy bugs and vine weevils can be discouraged with a systemic insecticide. Frost hardy to 19 °F (-7 °C).
Propagation
Many species can be propagated from a single leaf, which should be placed against the side of the pot so that the stem end is just touching the compost. Some species drop their leaves easily and although each leaf will form a new plant it can be a challenge to grow a large specimen. In other cases, leaves for propagation must be carefully detached with a sharp knife. Adromischus phillipsiae is easier to propagate from stem cuttings than from individual leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Dinteranthus are a group of stemless succulents from the Cape Province in South Africa, close to the Orange river where they get mostly summer rain. They are mesembs, and resemble those genera within the Aizoaceae family to which they are most closely related; namely Lithops, Lapidaria and Schwantesia, although they require even less water and have a distinctive keel along the lower leaf surface. They are named for the professor K. Dinter, Dinteranthus meaning “Dinter’s Flower”.
The leaf pairs are separated by a deep cleft from which the flower arises. The plants are popular among collectors. Dinteranthus need excellent drainage and a good deal of light. They should be treated like Lithops, though they require less water. They have yellow flowers in the fall. After they bloom, a new pair of leaves develop, used the moisture from the older pair of leaves to grow. The plants should not be watered until the old pair of leaves is totally shriveled. They will take a small amount of frost.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adult plants of this genus behave like Lithops: summer expansion leading to flowering in fall, followed by a slow transfer of resources in winter; the main difference is that the presence of two active leaf-pairs is not unusual in some Dinteranthus. Dinteranthus require slightly less water than do most Lithops. Excellent drainage is essential, as all Dinteranthus are somewhat prone to rot, Dinteranthus microspermus subsp. puberulus being the most resistant of the six taxa. Their nutritive requirements are amazingly modest and the root systems of even the healthiest plants are minuscule. What they need most critically is good light, which will give them a bone-white aspect. Older long-stemmed plants can and usually should be turned into cuttings and re-rooted.
Propagation
The real trouble with Dinteranthus is that the seedlings are so tiny that they are apt to damp off. But if the following rules are observed, success is likely. Sow in high summer; use sterilized soil with extra grit and enough peat to ensure high acidity; do not cover the seeds. Place the sown pot in a water bath, cover the whole assemblage with clear plastic and place it outdoors in a bright spot. Wait three full days, remove the pots to your usual place of germination and mist them at least twice a day. Seedlings should be evident within twelve days of sowing; they are extremely small at first and resemble green crystalline raspberries. The object is to induce them to grow as rapidly as possible. If this takes daily mist-feeding, then do it. By mid-autumn the cotyledons should turn greyish-white from a calcium deposition which strengthens them. After this whitening the fissure walls part and the true leaves are visible through the resultant peephole. Thereafter you are home free: treat the seedlings like young Lithops. Delay transplanting until the second set of true leaves is fully formed.
The leaf pairs are separated by a deep cleft from which the flower arises. The plants are popular among collectors. Dinteranthus need excellent drainage and a good deal of light. They should be treated like Lithops, though they require less water. They have yellow flowers in the fall. After they bloom, a new pair of leaves develop, used the moisture from the older pair of leaves to grow. The plants should not be watered until the old pair of leaves is totally shriveled. They will take a small amount of frost.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Adult plants of this genus behave like Lithops: summer expansion leading to flowering in fall, followed by a slow transfer of resources in winter; the main difference is that the presence of two active leaf-pairs is not unusual in some Dinteranthus. Dinteranthus require slightly less water than do most Lithops. Excellent drainage is essential, as all Dinteranthus are somewhat prone to rot, Dinteranthus microspermus subsp. puberulus being the most resistant of the six taxa. Their nutritive requirements are amazingly modest and the root systems of even the healthiest plants are minuscule. What they need most critically is good light, which will give them a bone-white aspect. Older long-stemmed plants can and usually should be turned into cuttings and re-rooted.
Propagation
The real trouble with Dinteranthus is that the seedlings are so tiny that they are apt to damp off. But if the following rules are observed, success is likely. Sow in high summer; use sterilized soil with extra grit and enough peat to ensure high acidity; do not cover the seeds. Place the sown pot in a water bath, cover the whole assemblage with clear plastic and place it outdoors in a bright spot. Wait three full days, remove the pots to your usual place of germination and mist them at least twice a day. Seedlings should be evident within twelve days of sowing; they are extremely small at first and resemble green crystalline raspberries. The object is to induce them to grow as rapidly as possible. If this takes daily mist-feeding, then do it. By mid-autumn the cotyledons should turn greyish-white from a calcium deposition which strengthens them. After this whitening the fissure walls part and the true leaves are visible through the resultant peephole. Thereafter you are home free: treat the seedlings like young Lithops. Delay transplanting until the second set of true leaves is fully formed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aloinopsis is a genus of ice plants. They occurs mostly in the Eastern and Western Cape Provinces of South Africa, extending slightly into the southern part of the Northern Cape Province. One species is found in the northeastern corner of the Northern Cape Province. Rainfall is sparse throughout the range. Many species have rough-surfaced, spoon-shaped leaves that grow in small rosettes. The roots are thick and the flowers are often striped with red. Aloinopsis are sometimes confused with Titanopsis, but the genus Titanopsis lack striped flowers.
Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark.
Growing Conditions
Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer.
Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot.
Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius).
Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Propagation
Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division.
Pests and Problems
Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
Aloinopsis are popular among collectors. They are winter growers and need plenty of light. Most are somewhat to extremely cold hardy and bloom in the winter. The flowers are mostly yellow to pink, fragrant, and open in the afternoon, closing after dark.
Growing Conditions
Light: A sunny position brings out the best colors. It should be protected from too much exposure in summer.
Water: Remember not to over-water in the summer when they’re taking their rest. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot.
Temperature: Aloinopsis will survive mild frost if kept dry. They can tolerate down to about 23 degrees Fahrenheit (-5 degrees Celsius).
Soil: They prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage.
Fertilizer: They should be fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer.
Propagation
Aloinopsis are propagated by seed or division.
Pests and Problems
Unfortunately, they are prone to red spider mites, and root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Aloinopsis can be cultivated in the ground or in a container. They will grow in the cooler parts of the year, and flower in winter if it gets good light (direct sunlight is essential to bloom well). Aloinopsis is probably dormant in summer, so it is usually recommended not to water much in summer. Don’t be surprised if they doesn’t grow at that time, but although Aloinopsis are better treated as winter growers they will grow anyway in summer, if given water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Aptenia is a small genus of flowering plants in the family Aizoaceae. They are native to southern Africa. These are succulent subshrubs growing from a system of fibrous, often fleshy roots. The stems lie prostrate on the ground or may climb. The stem bases are woody, and the stems are green. The leaves are mostly oppositely arranged, but those near the inflorescences may be alternate. The leaf blades are flat, hairless, sometimes waxy, and usually heart-shaped, or occasionally lance-shaped. Flowers are solitary or grow in small, whorled clusters, usually in the leaf axils along the stem. The flower is about 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide. There are two large sepals and two smaller. The corolla contains many narrow petals in shades of pink, purple, yellow, or white, and several staminodes that look very much like the petals. The many fertile stamens at the center are white or yellow. The fruit is a capsule with four valves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Water Aptenia only when the soil is completely dry, and then provide enough to drench the soil to a depth of about 6 inches (15 cm). To check for dryness, poke your finger into the soil. Never water if the soil feels damp or cool, as Aptenia, like all succulents, is prone to rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. Water Aptenia lightly during the winter if the leaves begin to look shriveled. Provide only enough water to moisten the soil as the plant deteriorates quickly in cool, damp soil.
Withhold fertilizer, which isn’t needed and often results in a weak, floppy plant. Trim the plant as needed throughout the growing season, using pruners or garden shears to keep the plant tidy. Pot the plant and bring it indoors for the winter when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Grower’s Tips
Aptenia isn’t difficult to grow in pots. Use a combination of 1 part potting mix and 1 part sand or a commercial mixture for cacti and succulents. Put the pot in direct sunlight and water deeply whenever the soil feels dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Tavaresia includes at least 2 species (Tavaresia barklyi, Tavaresia angolensis) of spiny stem succulents native to southern Africa. Short, erect, 6-14 angled stems carry rows of tubercles furnished with 3 fine white spines which gives the plants a cactoid appearance. Technically, these spines represent a modified leaf spine with 2 side stipules, unique to this genus. Stems take on a dramatic dark colouration in a sunny position, contrasting with the spines. The large funnel-shaped flowers make these plants attractive to collectors. Swellings near the tips of the coronal lobes are also unique to this genus.
Growing Conditions
Light: Tavaresias prefer light shade rather than full sun, although stems may not color up under shady conditions.
Water: They should at all times sparingly watered (best rain water with some occasional fertilizer), and in winter time they hardly require any.
Temperature: A minimum winter temperature of 41°F (5°C) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry.
Soil: They grow well in light gritty soil with a very liberal drainage.
General Care
Tavaresias are mainly grown by plant collectors, lovers of succulents and enthusiasts who enjoy growing unorthodox looking plants. They comes from summer rainfall areas, and are intolerant of excess water, humidity and low winter temperatures and easily destroyed by molds. Flower buds drop off easily in response to the slightest touch or unfavorable conditions.
Propagation
Plants are usually increased by cuttings, which, as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly into pots. Grafting the Tavaresia on Stapelias is often useful, and can be recommended.
Pest and Problems
Keep their roots free of mealy bugs, as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems and minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots.
Growing Conditions
Light: Tavaresias prefer light shade rather than full sun, although stems may not color up under shady conditions.
Water: They should at all times sparingly watered (best rain water with some occasional fertilizer), and in winter time they hardly require any.
Temperature: A minimum winter temperature of 41°F (5°C) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry.
Soil: They grow well in light gritty soil with a very liberal drainage.
General Care
Tavaresias are mainly grown by plant collectors, lovers of succulents and enthusiasts who enjoy growing unorthodox looking plants. They comes from summer rainfall areas, and are intolerant of excess water, humidity and low winter temperatures and easily destroyed by molds. Flower buds drop off easily in response to the slightest touch or unfavorable conditions.
Propagation
Plants are usually increased by cuttings, which, as they are very succulent, should be allowed to dry a week after they are taken off, when they may at once be put singly into pots. Grafting the Tavaresia on Stapelias is often useful, and can be recommended.
Pest and Problems
Keep their roots free of mealy bugs, as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems and minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Braunsia is a genus of succulent plant in the family Aizoaceae, occurs the southwestern part of the Western Cape Province in South Africa. The plants are shrublets or creepers, characterized by their serrated, partially fused leaves.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
The beautiful flowers, ranging in color from salmon to pink to white, bloom in winter and spring, opening and closing in the afternoon. They do well in cultivation and are, for the most, not very finicky.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Braunsias are moderately slow growing succulents. Needs moderate water when growing in late fall and early spring. Keep somewhat dry the rest of the time. Like all living rocks, they thrive in porous soils with excellent drainage. It can tolerates high heat and some frost (hardy to 23° F (-5° C) or less if very dry). Braunsias are very rewarding succulents and can be cultivated in desert garden in warm climates or in greenhouses or windowsills in the home where too hardy. Enjoy bright shade in summer and full sun on the other seasons.
Propagation
They are easily propagated by seed and cuttings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Nananthus occurs widely in the interior of South Africa, in the Eastern Cape Province, Northern Cape Province, the Northwest Province, and the Free State. There is also a population in eastern Namibia.
Nananthus is made up of a dozen of species of mesemb. It is related to Aloinopsis and Titanopsis. The thick-rooted plants are tufted with pointed leaves arranged in rosettes and the attractive flowers. The flowers are 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide, yellow, with occasionally some red. Hardy growers, Nananthus will do well in a clayey soil. In the wild, they are summer growers, but in cultivation they often behave as winter growers.
Growing Conditions
Light: They need full sun or light shade on the other seasons.
Temperature: Nananthus will take a small amount of frost for a short time (it is reported to be hardy to at least 10° F/-12° C). Keep cool in summer.
Water: Water minimally in summer, only when the plant starts shrivelling.
Soil: Because of the tap root they need a highly gritty compost with much drainage.
Propagation
Nananthus are propagated by cuttings and seeds.
Grower’s Tips
Coming from a more continental part of South Africa, Nananthus will tolerate intense heat, as well as some frost. They should be lightly shaded in summer. They generally bloom in the fall. Most species develop large root systems, and need to be kept in a large pot. This also means that the soil mix needs to have an excellent drainage to avoid root rot. They are sometimes planted so that some of the root system is shown.
Nananthus is made up of a dozen of species of mesemb. It is related to Aloinopsis and Titanopsis. The thick-rooted plants are tufted with pointed leaves arranged in rosettes and the attractive flowers. The flowers are 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide, yellow, with occasionally some red. Hardy growers, Nananthus will do well in a clayey soil. In the wild, they are summer growers, but in cultivation they often behave as winter growers.
Growing Conditions
Light: They need full sun or light shade on the other seasons.
Temperature: Nananthus will take a small amount of frost for a short time (it is reported to be hardy to at least 10° F/-12° C). Keep cool in summer.
Water: Water minimally in summer, only when the plant starts shrivelling.
Soil: Because of the tap root they need a highly gritty compost with much drainage.
Propagation
Nananthus are propagated by cuttings and seeds.
Grower’s Tips
Coming from a more continental part of South Africa, Nananthus will tolerate intense heat, as well as some frost. They should be lightly shaded in summer. They generally bloom in the fall. Most species develop large root systems, and need to be kept in a large pot. This also means that the soil mix needs to have an excellent drainage to avoid root rot. They are sometimes planted so that some of the root system is shown.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Mesembryanthemums or Mesembs as they are often known, belong to the Aizoaceae family and come mainly from South Africa and Namibia. They occur in both summer and winter rainfall areas and this affects their cultivation needs.
Although the Aizoaceae family has roughly the same number of species as the Cactus family, and although the majority of them are found in a single country (and almost all of them in two countries), it manages a huge diversity of growth habits and climatic conditions. There are alpine summer growers, dead-stick summer dormant species, large shrubs, and single leaf pairs no bigger than your thumbnail. So knowing how to grow them can be something of a challenge.
Mesembs share a few common traits that will be found throughout the family. One is that all are leaf succulents with the frequent habit of recycling resources from older leaves to new growth. They are mostly adapted to relatively predictable rainfall patterns rather than extreme drought and irregular rainfall. Total rainfall may be extremely low, but water is available at least seasonally or through fog and condensation. This leads to or allows plants which are not especially large and sometimes very small, and affects the way they need to be treated in cultivation.
Growing Condition
Mesembs require a loam-based compost with the addition of extra drainage material such as horticultural grit or perlite. They all like good light conditions and plenty of ventilation.
Some are relatively cold-hardy and can even survive mild winters outside. Most will survive temperatures down to freezing point. There are some Mesembs which begin to grow in the autumn as the temperature drops and the days get shorter. Examples are Conophytum, Manilaria and Mitrophyllum.
Because different genera within the Mesemb family have different growing conditions, care mast be taken with watering. Some genera will benefit from a light spray water to prevent shrivelling during their dormant period.
Grower’s Tips
The basics of Mesemb care are very simple, with free-draining soil, plenty of sun and ventilation, and regular light watering in the right season. Yet the difficulties are endless, trying to adapt to the Mesembs’ own adaptability and to follow their growth habits in your particular conditions.
Although the Aizoaceae family has roughly the same number of species as the Cactus family, and although the majority of them are found in a single country (and almost all of them in two countries), it manages a huge diversity of growth habits and climatic conditions. There are alpine summer growers, dead-stick summer dormant species, large shrubs, and single leaf pairs no bigger than your thumbnail. So knowing how to grow them can be something of a challenge.
Mesembs share a few common traits that will be found throughout the family. One is that all are leaf succulents with the frequent habit of recycling resources from older leaves to new growth. They are mostly adapted to relatively predictable rainfall patterns rather than extreme drought and irregular rainfall. Total rainfall may be extremely low, but water is available at least seasonally or through fog and condensation. This leads to or allows plants which are not especially large and sometimes very small, and affects the way they need to be treated in cultivation.
Growing Condition
Mesembs require a loam-based compost with the addition of extra drainage material such as horticultural grit or perlite. They all like good light conditions and plenty of ventilation.
Some are relatively cold-hardy and can even survive mild winters outside. Most will survive temperatures down to freezing point. There are some Mesembs which begin to grow in the autumn as the temperature drops and the days get shorter. Examples are Conophytum, Manilaria and Mitrophyllum.
Because different genera within the Mesemb family have different growing conditions, care mast be taken with watering. Some genera will benefit from a light spray water to prevent shrivelling during their dormant period.
Grower’s Tips
The basics of Mesemb care are very simple, with free-draining soil, plenty of sun and ventilation, and regular light watering in the right season. Yet the difficulties are endless, trying to adapt to the Mesembs’ own adaptability and to follow their growth habits in your particular conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Salicornia europaea, known as Common Glasswort or just Glasswort, is a halophytic annual dicot flowering in August to October. It flowers in groups of three. Glasswort is found in Africa, Europe and North America. Within the saltmarsh it can be found in low marsh and in depressions, salt pans and open creek sides. It is edible, either cooked or raw.
The plant is at its best for eating in late summer. The stems are very succulent, but have a thin woody core that is easily removed. Its leaves stick out as small protrusions from the main stem. They are best harvested when about 6 inches (15 cm) long, the top 4 inches (10 cm) being used leaving the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) to produce new shoots. The edible leaves are occasionally sold in local markets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Prefers sunny position. Grow it in a container on you window sill or in the open ground.
Water: Best watered with a saline solution (1 teaspoon of proper sea salt in a pint of water).
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: Light sandy soil (or well drained).
Grower’s Tips
Glasswort prefers a rich organic soil with ample nitrogen and regular watering. This species is little, if at all, cultivated and its exact requirements are not clearly understood. It is not known if the plant will require periodic inundation by salty water to grow well. Glasswort is difficult to grow in cultivation, it can succeed in gardens if sown as soon as the seed is ripe in the autumn in a well-drained soil. A very variable plant both in size and the number of branches produced – a number of subspecies are recognised. The best forms for food production are bushy plants up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall with an upright habit that keeps the branches out of the mud.
The plant is at its best for eating in late summer. The stems are very succulent, but have a thin woody core that is easily removed. Its leaves stick out as small protrusions from the main stem. They are best harvested when about 6 inches (15 cm) long, the top 4 inches (10 cm) being used leaving the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) to produce new shoots. The edible leaves are occasionally sold in local markets.
Growing Conditions
Light: Prefers sunny position. Grow it in a container on you window sill or in the open ground.
Water: Best watered with a saline solution (1 teaspoon of proper sea salt in a pint of water).
Temperature: Give them medium (50 degrees F/10 degrees C) to warm temperatures during the growing season—spring and summer. The plants go semi-dormant in winter.
Soil: Light sandy soil (or well drained).
Grower’s Tips
Glasswort prefers a rich organic soil with ample nitrogen and regular watering. This species is little, if at all, cultivated and its exact requirements are not clearly understood. It is not known if the plant will require periodic inundation by salty water to grow well. Glasswort is difficult to grow in cultivation, it can succeed in gardens if sown as soon as the seed is ripe in the autumn in a well-drained soil. A very variable plant both in size and the number of branches produced – a number of subspecies are recognised. The best forms for food production are bushy plants up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall with an upright habit that keeps the branches out of the mud.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Ceropegia contains a diverse group of 160 named species native to Africa, southern Asia, and Australia. Some of these perrenial plants have succulent stems, which may be dwarf or vine-like and posess fibrous roots, while others have tubers and relatively thin stems, along which new tubers may form in some species. Species with fleshy thickened roots are the most difficult to grow. The leaves are opposite, but may be vestigal on species with succulent stems.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
Flowers occur either singly or in umbel-like clusters and have a tubular corolla 2 or more times as long as its diameter and longer than the 5 lobes. The base of the tube is usually inflated and the tube may have downwardly orientated hairs on the inside and hairs on the outside and at the edges of the lobes. Colours include reds, purples, yellows, greens and mixtures of these. Flies entering the corolla may become trapped by the hairs until the flower wilts. The tips of the lobes are fused together to form a cage-like flower structure in many species, but are open in others.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ceropegia does well in bright light. It does not need full sun. If the light is too low the stem will stretch and the leaves will be far apart. It will look better if grow in enough light. Also the purple coloring will fade.
Water: It like to be water regularly. The leaves should be thick and full. If they are paper thick the plant is low on water.
Soil: Ceropegia will grow in any type of soils. Add more perlite to the mix so the roots do not get too wet. In wetter soil mix the plant must be allowed to dry between watering.
Fertilizer: Alway with fertilizer less is more. A little fertilizer is helpful. Using too much will possibly burn the roots.
Propagation
It is usually from cuttings. If they is a tuber forming on one of the stems. They can be place against soil in a pot. When they have rooted down you can cut the stem and have a separate plant. You can also cut off a tuber and part of the stem and coil it around the small pot. It will have the chance to root. Most succulent plants will root from small pieces. It is nature way to maximize the chances for the plants survival if not the mother plant then pieces of it.
Grower’s Tips
A gritty compost is suitable, and clay pots help with drainage, especially for the species with white thickened roots which are the most susceptible to rotting and for species forming large tubers. Ceropegias appreciate water and a little fertilizer during warm weather, although some care with watering is required for the more difficult species. The vine-like species can suffer from prolonged drought.
Typically, many of these species grow and climb naturally among bushes which provide shade and humidity to the base, while the vegetative growth is in the light. Where tubers occur, they are best planted on the surface of the compost, and the vegetative growth allowed to twine around supports or to trail down from a hanging pot. The latter mode of growth has the advantage of not using valuable bench space. Small tubers formed at joints in the thin stems of some species can be used for propagation. If the tuber rots or dries out, don’t panic. As long as some of the top growth is still in reasonable condition, it may be possible to save the plant by re-rooting stems in damp gravel.
In the more succulent species, stems layered on the compost will produce roots from their lower surface, and climbing reproductive flowering shoots which can be allowed to hang down or twine around supports. Vine-like species readily root from cuttings inserted vertically in the soil to the bottom of a pair of leaves. A minimum over-wintering temperature of 50°F (10°C) is adequate providing the plants are kept dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Native to South Africa, these clump forming succulent plants have similarities with the Aloe plants and they’re related with the same subfamily. There are also subspecies grown.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall.
The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes.
Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem).
Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C).
Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out.
Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice.
Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter.
Repotting
Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation
Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
In their natural habitat (subtropical) Zebra Plants receive plenty of sun and periods without rainfall. Their succulent nature enables them to store water within the thick leaves when there’s no frequent rainfall.
The main difference between the two species (Haworthia fasciata and Haworthia attenuata) is the Haworthia fasciata has smoother inner leaves unlike the Haworthia attenuata that displays tubercles (warty growths). The Fasciata is supposedly more rarer than the Attenuata and seems to have fatter leaves.
Primarily they are grown in gardens. However, they are also grown in greenhouses, conservatories and within homes.
Flowering: If the Zebra Plant blooms appear (may not indoors) they are small tubular white or pink flowers growing from an inflorescence (thin kind of stem).
Foliage: The Zebra Plant forms a rosette of leaves. These leaves are very thick and patterned with Zebra like white stripes or tubercles that look like warts. They’re a clump forming plant in the wild so they can be grown with several or as many as you like in one container.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: 65°F – 80°F (8°C – 26°C) temperatures are very good and not much below 50°F (10°C).
Light: Display Zebra Plant anywhere it can receive plenty of sun or bright light. South facing windows will provide the most sun, however, east or west provide direct sun part of the day that I find more suitable.
Water: During the growing season from April to September water the Zebra Plant thoroughly and then water when the soil becomes dry to the touch (not bone dry though). Winter is a tricky time for these plants although they are a tough species. Many growers will overwater then alongside cold temperatures or drafts the plant can become very sick, or even die. The leaves are storage organs so during the winter water much less and allow the top soil to dry out.
Soil: Use a cactus potting mix that drains wells and provides plenty of air to the small roots. If making you own mix or buying another type, use part potting soil, part perlite and part sand.
Air Humidity: Normal room humidity will suffice.
Fertilizer: From April to September you can feed Zebra Plants with a diluted liquid fertilizer once every month. Do not feed during winter.
Repotting
Once the Zebra Plant outgrows the pot you can repot, during spring. Only move to a slightly bigger pot. Every two years I would renew the soil even if repotting is not required.
Propagation
Zebra Plants are propagated in the same way as Aloe plants. Propagate with a couple of inches of leaves, letting the wound heal for a couple of days before planting (let them dry out). They also produce pups (offsets) that can be removed from the mother plant and replanted. Either method you should water the soil once and then wait to see a small sign of new growth to prevent killing them with overwatering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The genus Anacampseros was recently (1994) split into Anacampseros and Avonia from South Africa, and Grahamia from the Americas and Australia. Many plant labels and plant nurseries have not yet caught up with this change, so all these plants may still be seen labelled as Anacampseros.
Avonia is reserved for the species with tiny leaves hidden by papery stipules which form a protective layer along the stems. These bright white scales reflect a proportion of the solar radiation and protect the leaves from the noon-day sun. The small, solitary, greenish-white flowers are produced on the tips of the stems. The roots form a small caudex.
Growing Conditions
Light: Avonia do well in light shade to full sun. High levels of light are needed to flower and for good plant development.
Water: Water normally in the growing season from March to October, keep dry in winter.
Temperature: It is quite frost resistant if kept dry, hardy as low as 23°F (-5°C).
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a cactus mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering. For best results, use a shallow pot, and only use the smallest diameter pot that will accommodate the plant.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium liquid fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Seed that germinate at 59°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C). The seeds germinate very quickly. In cultivation the young Avonia plants develop much quicker than in their natural surroundings, where they don’t get ample water supply. Generally they are not easy to raise from seed as too much water kills them immediately, which also happens when they are not watered at all.
Grower’s Tips
Although regarded as a choice and difficult plant, in cultivation it is relatively easy. Avonia grow very slowly and requires careful cultivation. Clustering in cultivation, if grown correctly, it will reward the grower with generous displays of tiny flowers. Avonia grow well at moderate to cooler temperatures in partial sun. Bright light enhances leaf colors and makes for a compact plant. They enjoy a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering depending on the species. A collection of these plants can be housed in quite a small space.
Avonia is reserved for the species with tiny leaves hidden by papery stipules which form a protective layer along the stems. These bright white scales reflect a proportion of the solar radiation and protect the leaves from the noon-day sun. The small, solitary, greenish-white flowers are produced on the tips of the stems. The roots form a small caudex.
Growing Conditions
Light: Avonia do well in light shade to full sun. High levels of light are needed to flower and for good plant development.
Water: Water normally in the growing season from March to October, keep dry in winter.
Temperature: It is quite frost resistant if kept dry, hardy as low as 23°F (-5°C).
Soil: Since roots are quite shallow, use a cactus mix or add extra perlite or pumice to regular soil potting soil. A gritty, very free-draining compost is suitable, and clay pots help the plants to dry out between watering. For best results, use a shallow pot, and only use the smallest diameter pot that will accommodate the plant.
Fertilizer: Feed with a high potassium liquid fertilizer in summer.
Propagation
Seed that germinate at 59°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C). The seeds germinate very quickly. In cultivation the young Avonia plants develop much quicker than in their natural surroundings, where they don’t get ample water supply. Generally they are not easy to raise from seed as too much water kills them immediately, which also happens when they are not watered at all.
Grower’s Tips
Although regarded as a choice and difficult plant, in cultivation it is relatively easy. Avonia grow very slowly and requires careful cultivation. Clustering in cultivation, if grown correctly, it will reward the grower with generous displays of tiny flowers. Avonia grow well at moderate to cooler temperatures in partial sun. Bright light enhances leaf colors and makes for a compact plant. They enjoy a gritty free-draining soil with added organic material and low to moderate watering depending on the species. A collection of these plants can be housed in quite a small space.
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