文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The genus Euphorbia boasts a number of fascinating and beautiful plants, and the Medusa’s Head euphorbia is one of the most unique. Medusa’s Head plants, native to South Africa, grow numerous grayish-green, snake-like branches extending from a central hub that keeps the twisty, leafless branches supplied with moisture and nutrients. In perfect conditions, the plants can measure as much as 3 feet across, and yellowish-green blooms appear around the hub in spring and summer. Want to learn how to grow a Medusa’s Head? Read on.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
This member of the Rose family (Rosaceae) has been cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region, but it is actually a native of North Africa and western Asia. The pretty bright pink buds of the flowers, which fade to white after they open, appear before the leaves and can often be seen from January onwards in the southern Iberian Peninsula.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
In the Algarve in Portugal, where this specimen was photographed, the once thriving industry of growing almonds for marzipan has collapsed in favour of using cheaper imported nuts from abroad, although the Portuguese continue to make the almond-paste fruits, sweets and desserts for which they are world famous. This means that many of the almond orchards are now abandoned; the fruits of these neglected trees often contain poisonous prussic acid (hydrogen cyanide) and should therefore be avoided.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Oxalis palmifrons is a fascinating and very attractive blooming perennial. Oxalis is the genus name of a plant from southern Africa that is made up of over 200 species. Oxalis palmifrons is one such species that gets its name from its leaves – tiny, symmetrical fronds radiating from the top of each stem, making it look for all the world like a tiny cluster of miniature palm trees. It also sometimes goes by the name palm leaf false shamrock plant, or simply false shamrock. But how do you go about growing Oxalis palmifrons? Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a palm leaf oxalis and palm leaf oxalis care.
Palm Leaf Oxalis Plants
Palm leaf oxalis plants are native to the Western Karoo region of South Africa, and they need similarly warm weather to survive. They can be grown outside in USDA zones 7b through 11. In cooler climates they work well as container plants on a bright windowsill. They grow very low to the ground, never getting more than a few inches tall. They also spread extremely slowly, reaching a width of two feet in about ten years. This compact size makes them ideal for container growing.
How to Grow a Palm Leaf Oxalis
Palm leaf oxalis plants are winter growers, meaning they go dormant during the summer. In late autumn, the leaves will emerge as bright green tiny palm trees. The flowers bloom light pink to white on stalks that reach just above the foliage. The leaves remain green through the winter, before the plant goes dormant again. Palm leaf oxalis care is relatively easy – water regularly but not too much, and give it full to partial sun. Bring it inside if your winters get chilly, and don’t give up on it when it fades with the summer. It will come back!
Palm Leaf Oxalis Plants
Palm leaf oxalis plants are native to the Western Karoo region of South Africa, and they need similarly warm weather to survive. They can be grown outside in USDA zones 7b through 11. In cooler climates they work well as container plants on a bright windowsill. They grow very low to the ground, never getting more than a few inches tall. They also spread extremely slowly, reaching a width of two feet in about ten years. This compact size makes them ideal for container growing.
How to Grow a Palm Leaf Oxalis
Palm leaf oxalis plants are winter growers, meaning they go dormant during the summer. In late autumn, the leaves will emerge as bright green tiny palm trees. The flowers bloom light pink to white on stalks that reach just above the foliage. The leaves remain green through the winter, before the plant goes dormant again. Palm leaf oxalis care is relatively easy – water regularly but not too much, and give it full to partial sun. Bring it inside if your winters get chilly, and don’t give up on it when it fades with the summer. It will come back!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
If you’re an indoor plant enthusiast and you’re looking for a unique addition to your collection of houseplants, then Alocasia may be the ideal plant for you. Also known as the African mask or Kris plant, Alocasia doesn’t come from Africa at all. It gets its name from its resemblance to the hand carved ceremonial masks found there but actually hails from the Philippine Islands. There are over 50 species of the Kris plant and Alocasia hybrids abound, making it difficult to identify the exact genetic history of the plants typically sold in catalogs and stores. Grown for its striking foliage, the African mask plant is not an easy care houseplant.
About Alocasia Indoor Planting
Alocasia indoor planting requires conditions that closely replicate its natural outdoor environment, which is warm and very humid. It is particular about its soil and light conditions and needs to be planted in a specific way. If you’re willing to go the extra mile in Alocasia plant care, you’ll be richly rewarded with an eye catching addition to your indoor garden. Clean lines and crisp, defined color makes the Kris plant (Alocasia sanderiana) an excellent standalone specimen, especially complimentary to modern design. When mixed with a plant grouping, an African mask plant can turn a group of commonplace houseplants into an exotic, tropical display. Its decorative versatility is second only to the plant itself. The leaves grow long and pointed from rhizomatous clumps and reach an average of 18 inches in length. They are a deep, dark green and some are so dark they almost appear black. Their shiny length is accented by silvery white veining and deeply scalloped edges outlined by the same striking white. The flowers are similar to jack-in-the-pulpit with a green and white spathe that produces orange-red berries. They are not significant and rarely occur in an Alocasia indoor planting.
Growing Kris Plant Alocasia
Proper Alocasia plant care begins with the soil. It needs to be porous and a recommended mix would be one part soil, one part perlite or coarse potting sand and one part peat. The potting mixture must be well aerated, well drained, and yet remain moist. Rhizomes form the root of the Alocasia plant, so care must be taken when planting these rhizomes to ensure the top of the rhizome remains above the soil line or the plant will not grow. Propagation is best done in the spring as new growth appears by separating and repotting the rhizomes.
Your African mask plant prefers a tight fit in its pot so don’t repot too often. Humidity is second on the list of necessities for your new houseplant. Alocasia thrives in a moist environment and need plenty of water during active growth. This is a plant that definitely needs a pebble tray beneath it. That being said, the Kris plant also has a dormant period in the fall where the leaves fade and die. Not realizing that this is a natural occurrence, many well-meaning gardeners over water at this point in an attempt to save their houseplant. Alocasia’s need for water diminishes drastically during dormancy and should be reduced to moistening the soil once in a while. Your Alocasia indoor planting should be well lit with bright, but diffuse light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Avoid southern exposures. Fortunately, average household temperatures are sufficient for African mask plants, although they prefer it a bit warmer, about 85 F. (29 C.) in summer. Use a fertilizer formulated for foliage plants, such as a slow release fertilizer applied every couple months during the growing season. There is one more important note that should be mentioned when referencing the houseplant Alocasia in all its forms. They are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of small children and pets.
About Alocasia Indoor Planting
Alocasia indoor planting requires conditions that closely replicate its natural outdoor environment, which is warm and very humid. It is particular about its soil and light conditions and needs to be planted in a specific way. If you’re willing to go the extra mile in Alocasia plant care, you’ll be richly rewarded with an eye catching addition to your indoor garden. Clean lines and crisp, defined color makes the Kris plant (Alocasia sanderiana) an excellent standalone specimen, especially complimentary to modern design. When mixed with a plant grouping, an African mask plant can turn a group of commonplace houseplants into an exotic, tropical display. Its decorative versatility is second only to the plant itself. The leaves grow long and pointed from rhizomatous clumps and reach an average of 18 inches in length. They are a deep, dark green and some are so dark they almost appear black. Their shiny length is accented by silvery white veining and deeply scalloped edges outlined by the same striking white. The flowers are similar to jack-in-the-pulpit with a green and white spathe that produces orange-red berries. They are not significant and rarely occur in an Alocasia indoor planting.
Growing Kris Plant Alocasia
Proper Alocasia plant care begins with the soil. It needs to be porous and a recommended mix would be one part soil, one part perlite or coarse potting sand and one part peat. The potting mixture must be well aerated, well drained, and yet remain moist. Rhizomes form the root of the Alocasia plant, so care must be taken when planting these rhizomes to ensure the top of the rhizome remains above the soil line or the plant will not grow. Propagation is best done in the spring as new growth appears by separating and repotting the rhizomes.
Your African mask plant prefers a tight fit in its pot so don’t repot too often. Humidity is second on the list of necessities for your new houseplant. Alocasia thrives in a moist environment and need plenty of water during active growth. This is a plant that definitely needs a pebble tray beneath it. That being said, the Kris plant also has a dormant period in the fall where the leaves fade and die. Not realizing that this is a natural occurrence, many well-meaning gardeners over water at this point in an attempt to save their houseplant. Alocasia’s need for water diminishes drastically during dormancy and should be reduced to moistening the soil once in a while. Your Alocasia indoor planting should be well lit with bright, but diffuse light. Direct sunlight will burn the leaves. Avoid southern exposures. Fortunately, average household temperatures are sufficient for African mask plants, although they prefer it a bit warmer, about 85 F. (29 C.) in summer. Use a fertilizer formulated for foliage plants, such as a slow release fertilizer applied every couple months during the growing season. There is one more important note that should be mentioned when referencing the houseplant Alocasia in all its forms. They are toxic and should be kept out of the reach of small children and pets.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The starfish cactus is also called carrion flower due to the strong unpleasant odor of its fleshlike flowers. The plant is a succulent from South Africa with starfish-shaped flowers and long, slender, spiked branches. The flower attracts flies not only with its potent smell but also with the soft white fur that covers the flower and resembles mold covering rotting flesh. There are about 100 species in the plant's family, Asclepiadaceae, which includes several other fly-attracting blooms.
The Cactus
Several varieties of the starfish cactus exist. They all have the green branching arms that are tinged red in high-sun situations. The arms are barbed with thick white spines. The stems have four angles arrayed up the length and are an inch thick on average. The plant itself reaches 9 inches tall and has a wider spreading habit. Some of the varieties of cactus are considered rare in South Africa, a condition caused by loss of habitat.
Carrion Flowers
The flowers of the starfish plant may extend 10 inches across. The flowers are five-pointed and flesh-colored, although some have a grayish cast and others have a rosy glow. The larger species bear flowers at the base of the plant and smaller blooming species may have flowers scattered over the cactus. Each flower only lasts a few days but may die out and become replaced by another bloom. The petals have a grainy texture and pores that resemble skin.
Bloom Time
The blooming time of starfish cacti depends on where they are being raised, the amount of sun and water they receive, the fertility of the soil and the variety. On average, you can expect a baby plant to bloom in two years with just one or two flowers. When it is mature, the plant will bloom successively in July to September in North America. They flower in November through March in South Africa where they are native. Blooms are rare and rely upon prime growing conditions.
Pollination and Fruit
The stench is the attracting part of the flower, but its resemblance to flesh actually confuses flies into laying their eggs on the interior. The interior structure of the flower is webbed, which traps the legs of the flies. As they struggle, a pollen packet is attached to the insect's leg and they move on to the next flower. After the flower has finished, it sheds the petals and the ovary swells. Eventually, it bears a number of slightly hairy seeds. Seed is easy to start, but the plant will not bear flowers for many years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
he Aristolochiacea family of plants are commonly known as Birthworts. They are a small family which occur in tropical and Mediterranean regions.
Aristolochia baetica is very similar to Aristochia sempiverens which occurs in parts of Italy, North Africa and parts of the eastern Mediterranean region. Aristolochia baetica has darker flowers which are more purple in colour, and the leaves of the plant are a blue-green colour.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
Aristolochia baetica is very common in the Algarve in Portugal, and can be found on roadsides and other waste ground where the plants scramble over shrubs and rough stone walls. It flowers from June to August.
Aristolochia baetica is very similar to Aristochia sempiverens which occurs in parts of Italy, North Africa and parts of the eastern Mediterranean region. Aristolochia baetica has darker flowers which are more purple in colour, and the leaves of the plant are a blue-green colour.
The plants of the Aristolochiaceae family attract their pollinators (flies) by exuding a strong smell from their flowers which are typically saxaphone-shaped. When the flies crawl down into the flowers, they are trapped by the hairs that surround the 'mouth' and remain, crawling around, inside the flower overnight. By the following morning the hairs have withered and the flies, now covered with pollen, are able to escape and move on to other flowers and so complete the pollination cycle.
Aristolochia baetica is very common in the Algarve in Portugal, and can be found on roadsides and other waste ground where the plants scramble over shrubs and rough stone walls. It flowers from June to August.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The genus Gladiolus comprises 260 species, 250 of which are native to sub-Saharan Africa, mostly South Africa. About 10 species are native to Eurasia. The impressive flower spikes of Gladioli come in a wide array of beautiful colors.
Some Interesting Facts About Gladiolus Flowers
An ancient name for the gladiolus was xiphium, from the Greek word xiphos, also meaning sword.
The Gladiolus flower is the birth flower for August.
Gladiolus represented the Roman Gladiators, before the African Gladioli became popular in the West.
African Gladioli were imported in large quantities to Europe from South Africa during the 18th century.
Most of the more than 10,000 named Gladioli cultivars probably were derived from just seven species native to South Africa and first brought to European gardens in the late 17th century.
The Mediterranean and British Gladiolus flowers were used to treat physical ailments.
Some parts of the Gladiolus plant are poisonous if ingested and handling some species may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
The English used the gladiolus flower's stem base (corms) as a poultice and for drawing out thorns and splinters; powdered corms mixed with goat's milk were commonly used to soothe the symptoms of colic.
Scab, Fusarium Rot and Yellows, Penicillium Storage Rot, Leaf Spots and Blights, Stromatinia Corm Dry Rot, Virus and Phytoplasma Disease are the Common Gladioli diseases.
About Gladiolus Flowers and Plants
Gladiolus bulbs are not true bulbs. Gladiolus bulbs, in botanical terminology, are referred to as corms. A corm is a shortened and thickened section of the stem that appears at the base of the plant. On the corm are buds for each layer of leaves. Except for production of new varieties, Gladioli are not cultivated from seed.
Gladiolus plants are attractive, perennial herbs and semi hardy in temperate climates. They grow from rounded, symmetrical corms that are enveloped in several layers of brownish, fibrous tunics.
The fragrant Gladiolus flower spikes are large and one-sided, with secund, bisexual flowers.
Each Gladiolus flower is subtended by 2 leathery, green bracts. The sepals and the petals are almost identical in appearance, and are termed tepals. They are united at their base into a tube-shaped structure. The dorsal tepal is the largest, arching over the three stamens.
The outer three tepals of the Gladiolus are narrower. The Gladiolus perianth is funnel-shaped, with the stamens attached to its base. The Gladiolus style has three filiform, spoon-shaped branches, each expanding towards the apex.
The gladioli thrip, a very tiny, black, winged insect, is a real threat to Gladioli flowers and plants. It sucks the juice from the plant, leaving a silvery appearance, eventually causing the plant to turn brown. Gladioli thrips also cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening.
Growing/Planting Gladiolus
Gladiolus can be propagated by dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets).
Plant Gladiolus as early in the spring as the soil is fit to work.
Gladiolus corms can readily be purchased at your local garden center or nursery, though they can easily be grown from seeds.
Sow the seeds in early spring, in a well-drained flat 8 to 10 inches deep, that is filled with two thirds loam and one third leaf mold or peat moss, with a good amount of sand added.
Plant the seeds an inch apart and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. If the soil is kept fairly moist, the seeds should sprout in a few weeks.
Set the container of seedlings outside in a fairly sunny location during the summer months and don't disturb until the leaves have died down in fall.
At this time, take out the small corms, store for the winter, and plant in a border about 3 inches apart in March.
The blooming season can be stretched by making succession plantings, by planting bulbs of several sizes, and by using varieties which take different lengths of time to mature.
Gladioli Plant Care
Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the gladiolus to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove individual flowers as they fade, and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by.
Leave foliage intact to mature and rejuvenate the corm for next year.
Mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location.
Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35 to 45 degree F room. Replant in spring.
Gladiolus Bulb Care
Gladiole suffer when forced to compete with weeds.
Remove the weeds.
The new corm and the new roots are formed on top of the old one during the growing season.
Deep cultivation when near the roots breaks off the new roots and slows up growth.
Thrips cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening at all.
Thrips on bulbs should be killed before planting. In the garden, start dusting or spraying with Fungicide when leaves are six inches tall.
Water is essential for growing Gladiolus successfully.
Rain seldom supplies enough moisture, but start watering when there are five leaves on the plants.
Storing the Bulbs
Leave 1 inch of the stem and cut.
Store Gladiolus at about 70 degrees for a month to dry the corms.
Divide the bulbs, clean the debris.
Let them be at 70 degrees for a week.
Then store at 50 degrees.(Do not wash the bulbs with water)
Store them in a box or tub lined with peat
Some Interesting Facts About Gladiolus Flowers
An ancient name for the gladiolus was xiphium, from the Greek word xiphos, also meaning sword.
The Gladiolus flower is the birth flower for August.
Gladiolus represented the Roman Gladiators, before the African Gladioli became popular in the West.
African Gladioli were imported in large quantities to Europe from South Africa during the 18th century.
Most of the more than 10,000 named Gladioli cultivars probably were derived from just seven species native to South Africa and first brought to European gardens in the late 17th century.
The Mediterranean and British Gladiolus flowers were used to treat physical ailments.
Some parts of the Gladiolus plant are poisonous if ingested and handling some species may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.
The English used the gladiolus flower's stem base (corms) as a poultice and for drawing out thorns and splinters; powdered corms mixed with goat's milk were commonly used to soothe the symptoms of colic.
Scab, Fusarium Rot and Yellows, Penicillium Storage Rot, Leaf Spots and Blights, Stromatinia Corm Dry Rot, Virus and Phytoplasma Disease are the Common Gladioli diseases.
About Gladiolus Flowers and Plants
Gladiolus bulbs are not true bulbs. Gladiolus bulbs, in botanical terminology, are referred to as corms. A corm is a shortened and thickened section of the stem that appears at the base of the plant. On the corm are buds for each layer of leaves. Except for production of new varieties, Gladioli are not cultivated from seed.
Gladiolus plants are attractive, perennial herbs and semi hardy in temperate climates. They grow from rounded, symmetrical corms that are enveloped in several layers of brownish, fibrous tunics.
The fragrant Gladiolus flower spikes are large and one-sided, with secund, bisexual flowers.
Each Gladiolus flower is subtended by 2 leathery, green bracts. The sepals and the petals are almost identical in appearance, and are termed tepals. They are united at their base into a tube-shaped structure. The dorsal tepal is the largest, arching over the three stamens.
The outer three tepals of the Gladiolus are narrower. The Gladiolus perianth is funnel-shaped, with the stamens attached to its base. The Gladiolus style has three filiform, spoon-shaped branches, each expanding towards the apex.
The gladioli thrip, a very tiny, black, winged insect, is a real threat to Gladioli flowers and plants. It sucks the juice from the plant, leaving a silvery appearance, eventually causing the plant to turn brown. Gladioli thrips also cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening.
Growing/Planting Gladiolus
Gladiolus can be propagated by dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets).
Plant Gladiolus as early in the spring as the soil is fit to work.
Gladiolus corms can readily be purchased at your local garden center or nursery, though they can easily be grown from seeds.
Sow the seeds in early spring, in a well-drained flat 8 to 10 inches deep, that is filled with two thirds loam and one third leaf mold or peat moss, with a good amount of sand added.
Plant the seeds an inch apart and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. If the soil is kept fairly moist, the seeds should sprout in a few weeks.
Set the container of seedlings outside in a fairly sunny location during the summer months and don't disturb until the leaves have died down in fall.
At this time, take out the small corms, store for the winter, and plant in a border about 3 inches apart in March.
The blooming season can be stretched by making succession plantings, by planting bulbs of several sizes, and by using varieties which take different lengths of time to mature.
Gladioli Plant Care
Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the gladiolus to retain moisture and control weeds.
Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Remove individual flowers as they fade, and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by.
Leave foliage intact to mature and rejuvenate the corm for next year.
Mulch beds with a layer of hay or straw for winter protection.
Remove excess soil, cut the stalks to within an inch of the corms and let them cure for 1 to 2 weeks in a warm, airy location.
Then remove and discard the oldest bottom corms and store the large, new corms in plastic mesh bags in a well-ventilated, 35 to 45 degree F room. Replant in spring.
Gladiolus Bulb Care
Gladiole suffer when forced to compete with weeds.
Remove the weeds.
The new corm and the new roots are formed on top of the old one during the growing season.
Deep cultivation when near the roots breaks off the new roots and slows up growth.
Thrips cause deformed flowers and prevent flower spikes from opening at all.
Thrips on bulbs should be killed before planting. In the garden, start dusting or spraying with Fungicide when leaves are six inches tall.
Water is essential for growing Gladiolus successfully.
Rain seldom supplies enough moisture, but start watering when there are five leaves on the plants.
Storing the Bulbs
Leave 1 inch of the stem and cut.
Store Gladiolus at about 70 degrees for a month to dry the corms.
Divide the bulbs, clean the debris.
Let them be at 70 degrees for a week.
Then store at 50 degrees.(Do not wash the bulbs with water)
Store them in a box or tub lined with peat
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Gerbera is a genus of the family of sunflowers, Daisies and Asters - Asteraceae, with a wide distribution from Africa to Madagascar, tropical Asia and South America. Through hybridization, Gerberas are available in a massive array of colors.
Some Interesting Facts About Gerberas
Having a long vase life, Gerbera flowers are widely used in the Cut Flower Industry. Gerberas are great flowers for adding color to any room or garden.
Gerberas are also referred to as Gerbera Daisies, daisy being a general name for all species in the family Asteraceae, to which Gerberas belong.
Gerbera flowers often measure 7 inches (17.8 cm) across.
Gerberas come in a wide range of colors - from light to dark yellow, orange, pink, brilliant scarlet, deep red, and many more.
Gerberas can be used in landscapes as bedding plants for borders and flower beds or as Cut Flowers for table arrangements.
Gerberas are native to Transvaal, South Africa.
Hybrid Gerbera varieties cloned through tissue culture are uniform, and have long-lasting flowers with thick peduncles that are not light sensitive; hence, flowers remain open in the dark, lending themselves to indoor use in flower arrangements.
About Gerbera Flower
Gerberas are perennial flowering plants featuring a large capitulum with striking, 2-lipped ray florets. The capitulum on the Gerberas has the appearance of a single flower, but is actually a cluster of hundreds of individual flowers. The morphology of the flowers varies depending on their position in the capitulum of the Gerberas.
Various Forms of Gerbera Flowers
Gerberas come in various forms. Broadly, they can be put into four groups-
Single Flowers - These Gerberas have a row of non-overlapping petals (ray florets) with a green center (disc florets). These are the most common gerberas available in the market.
Double or duplex - These Gerberas have a double row of overlapping petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Crested doubles - These doubles contain two rows of overlapping petals with one or more inner rows of shorter petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Full crested doubles - These have solid overlapping rows of petals with an inner row diminishing in size, covering the eye entirely.
Growing Gerberas
The most inexpensive way to produce gerberas is from seed obtained from reputable seed suppliers.
Seeds should be germinated in an artificial growing medium. Germinating seeds in field sand or field sand mixed with materials such as perlite and/or peat moss is not recommended because field sand is usually not sterile. Artificial growing media that are sterile, lightweight, and have good water retention capacity and drainage can be purchased in garden supply stores. These materials often have fertilizers incorporated.
The medium can be placed in flats or pots that have drainage holes. Make shallow rows in the medium approximately twice the depth of the diameter of the seed, sow seeds in the rows, cover lightly with extra medium and water carefully.
After seeds are planted and watered, cover the container with a sheet of glass or clear plastic and place the germination container approximately 18 inches (45.7 cm) below a fluorescent light. Check the medium daily for moisture and for signs of seed germination.
The medium should never be allowed to dry, especially when gerbera seeds are starting to germinate. When watering is necessary, apply a sufficient amount to allow excess water to drain out of the container. Any water that collects in the saucer beneath the germination container should be discarded.
Tall and spindly seedlings can be avoided by transplanting seedlings to small pots as soon as the first true leaves appear. Seedlings can be grown in small pots until they are large enough to transplant into flower beds.
Some Interesting Facts About Gerberas
Having a long vase life, Gerbera flowers are widely used in the Cut Flower Industry. Gerberas are great flowers for adding color to any room or garden.
Gerberas are also referred to as Gerbera Daisies, daisy being a general name for all species in the family Asteraceae, to which Gerberas belong.
Gerbera flowers often measure 7 inches (17.8 cm) across.
Gerberas come in a wide range of colors - from light to dark yellow, orange, pink, brilliant scarlet, deep red, and many more.
Gerberas can be used in landscapes as bedding plants for borders and flower beds or as Cut Flowers for table arrangements.
Gerberas are native to Transvaal, South Africa.
Hybrid Gerbera varieties cloned through tissue culture are uniform, and have long-lasting flowers with thick peduncles that are not light sensitive; hence, flowers remain open in the dark, lending themselves to indoor use in flower arrangements.
About Gerbera Flower
Gerberas are perennial flowering plants featuring a large capitulum with striking, 2-lipped ray florets. The capitulum on the Gerberas has the appearance of a single flower, but is actually a cluster of hundreds of individual flowers. The morphology of the flowers varies depending on their position in the capitulum of the Gerberas.
Various Forms of Gerbera Flowers
Gerberas come in various forms. Broadly, they can be put into four groups-
Single Flowers - These Gerberas have a row of non-overlapping petals (ray florets) with a green center (disc florets). These are the most common gerberas available in the market.
Double or duplex - These Gerberas have a double row of overlapping petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Crested doubles - These doubles contain two rows of overlapping petals with one or more inner rows of shorter petals with a green, black, or dark red eye.
Full crested doubles - These have solid overlapping rows of petals with an inner row diminishing in size, covering the eye entirely.
Growing Gerberas
The most inexpensive way to produce gerberas is from seed obtained from reputable seed suppliers.
Seeds should be germinated in an artificial growing medium. Germinating seeds in field sand or field sand mixed with materials such as perlite and/or peat moss is not recommended because field sand is usually not sterile. Artificial growing media that are sterile, lightweight, and have good water retention capacity and drainage can be purchased in garden supply stores. These materials often have fertilizers incorporated.
The medium can be placed in flats or pots that have drainage holes. Make shallow rows in the medium approximately twice the depth of the diameter of the seed, sow seeds in the rows, cover lightly with extra medium and water carefully.
After seeds are planted and watered, cover the container with a sheet of glass or clear plastic and place the germination container approximately 18 inches (45.7 cm) below a fluorescent light. Check the medium daily for moisture and for signs of seed germination.
The medium should never be allowed to dry, especially when gerbera seeds are starting to germinate. When watering is necessary, apply a sufficient amount to allow excess water to drain out of the container. Any water that collects in the saucer beneath the germination container should be discarded.
Tall and spindly seedlings can be avoided by transplanting seedlings to small pots as soon as the first true leaves appear. Seedlings can be grown in small pots until they are large enough to transplant into flower beds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Freesia is a genus of about 14 species. Freesia bulbs are usually grown for use asCut Flowers. All the 14 species of Freesia are African in origin. Of The 14 Freesia species, 12 are native to Cape Province, South Africa, the remaining two to tropical Africa, with one these species extending north of the equator to Sudan. Freesia flowers are very fragrant, typically white or yellow, and are borne in spikelike racemes. This blooming beauty captures your heart and is a springtime favorite.
Freesia plants grow from a corm (a solid bulb, as in Gladiolus). The Freesia orm sends up a tuft of long narrow leaves and a slightly branched stem. Freesia Flowers are borne as loose one-sided spikes of narrowly funnel-shaped flowers along a side few leaves. Some excellent Freesia varieties (old-fashioned) for fragrance include: Athene, Allure, Demeter, Excelsior, Golden Wave, Mirabel, Pink Westlind, Snowdon, and Welkin.
The tender, cormous plant, Freesia originated in South Africa. The leaves on Freesia are sword shaped and light green and may be up to 1 feet high. Freesia Flower stalks are slender and about the same height. As many as 8 funnel-shaped Freesia flowers form a loose cluster at the top of each stalk. Where the flowers begin, the stem makes a sharp bend so that the Freesia flowers face upward.
Facts About Freesia
Freesia bloom was named by Dr. Freese (1785-1876) , a native of Kiel, Germany.
The flowers come in a great variety of colors - white, golden yellow, orange, red, pink, mauve, lavender, purple and bicolors.
Freesia perfume has a light, sweet, soap-like floral scent - trendy in soaps, lotions and so forth.
Freesia flower bouquets are also used for gifting on special occassions. Freesia flowers are symbolic of innocence.
Freesia are very poularly used in the perfume, scented oils and baths and other related industries.
Freesia Fragrance Oil
Fragrance Oils are artificially created fragrances, which contain artificial substances. Freesia fragrance oil is suitable for use in oil burners and vapourisers. It can also be used to refragrance pot pourries. Freesia fragrance oil can also be used in any of the vapourisers, such as the ceramic lamp ring, drivetime car vapouriser, radiator vapouriser or mini vaporiser.
Freesia essence oil is uncut, undiluted, alcohol free, long lasting, high grade essence oil. The oil is excellent for aromatherapy uses - to scent candles, freshen potpourri, in soap making, massage oils, bath oil and of course, as a Freesia perfume body oil - to smell just truly great.
Growing Freesia Flowers
The corms should be planted close - six will do nicely in a 5 inch pot.
Soil should be light and should be drained well.
Place the top of the corm, 1 inch below the soil.
For winter flowers, plant freesia in late summer or early fall and keep them cool until frosts are due.
During winter, bring freesia bulbs in and keep them in a sunny window.
Plant Care
Freesias are propagated by offsets of bulbs and seeds.
Freesia plants need full sun and cool night temperatures, preferably between 45 and 40 degrees.
Keep the plants well watered while the leaves and flowers are developing.
When the leaves begin to brown after the flowers have faded, the plants may be gradually dried off and the corms saved for the following year.
Freesia plants grow from a corm (a solid bulb, as in Gladiolus). The Freesia orm sends up a tuft of long narrow leaves and a slightly branched stem. Freesia Flowers are borne as loose one-sided spikes of narrowly funnel-shaped flowers along a side few leaves. Some excellent Freesia varieties (old-fashioned) for fragrance include: Athene, Allure, Demeter, Excelsior, Golden Wave, Mirabel, Pink Westlind, Snowdon, and Welkin.
The tender, cormous plant, Freesia originated in South Africa. The leaves on Freesia are sword shaped and light green and may be up to 1 feet high. Freesia Flower stalks are slender and about the same height. As many as 8 funnel-shaped Freesia flowers form a loose cluster at the top of each stalk. Where the flowers begin, the stem makes a sharp bend so that the Freesia flowers face upward.
Facts About Freesia
Freesia bloom was named by Dr. Freese (1785-1876) , a native of Kiel, Germany.
The flowers come in a great variety of colors - white, golden yellow, orange, red, pink, mauve, lavender, purple and bicolors.
Freesia perfume has a light, sweet, soap-like floral scent - trendy in soaps, lotions and so forth.
Freesia flower bouquets are also used for gifting on special occassions. Freesia flowers are symbolic of innocence.
Freesia are very poularly used in the perfume, scented oils and baths and other related industries.
Freesia Fragrance Oil
Fragrance Oils are artificially created fragrances, which contain artificial substances. Freesia fragrance oil is suitable for use in oil burners and vapourisers. It can also be used to refragrance pot pourries. Freesia fragrance oil can also be used in any of the vapourisers, such as the ceramic lamp ring, drivetime car vapouriser, radiator vapouriser or mini vaporiser.
Freesia essence oil is uncut, undiluted, alcohol free, long lasting, high grade essence oil. The oil is excellent for aromatherapy uses - to scent candles, freshen potpourri, in soap making, massage oils, bath oil and of course, as a Freesia perfume body oil - to smell just truly great.
Growing Freesia Flowers
The corms should be planted close - six will do nicely in a 5 inch pot.
Soil should be light and should be drained well.
Place the top of the corm, 1 inch below the soil.
For winter flowers, plant freesia in late summer or early fall and keep them cool until frosts are due.
During winter, bring freesia bulbs in and keep them in a sunny window.
Plant Care
Freesias are propagated by offsets of bulbs and seeds.
Freesia plants need full sun and cool night temperatures, preferably between 45 and 40 degrees.
Keep the plants well watered while the leaves and flowers are developing.
When the leaves begin to brown after the flowers have faded, the plants may be gradually dried off and the corms saved for the following year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrullus lanatus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
Everyone seems to love juicy watermelon in the summertime. Native to Africa, melons need warm temperatures (up to 80°F during the day) and a long growing season.
Gardeners in colder climates can still have success in growing watermelon vines by starting seeds indoors and choosing short-season varieties. Days to maturity range from 70 to 90, depending on the variety.
PLANTING
If you live in warmer climes, you can sow seeds directly outdoors, but wait until the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F to avoid poor germination.
Watermelon vines are very tender and should not be transplanted until all danger of frost has passed. (To be safe, wait at least two weeks past your last frost date.)
If you are in a cooler zone, start seeds indoors about a month before transplanting.
Amend soil with aged manure, seaweed, and/or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders.
Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6 and 6.8.
Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer. Space the plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill.
If you’re growing in rows, space 6 feet by 6 feet apart.
Watermelons like loamy, well-drained soil. Handle them gently when you transplant.
After you transplant, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. You’ll remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine.
CARE
Mulching with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.
Watering is very important—from planting until fruit begins to form. While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Keep soil moist, but not waterlogged. Water at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit are growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.
If you choose to fertilize (and many do), make sure it delivers more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium. However, after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen. We like to use liquid seaweed.
Pruning isn’t necessary, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it’s a challenge to kill off a potential fruit).
Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
As fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Cucumber Beetles
Squash Vine Borer Moths
Fusarium Wilt
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
Everyone seems to love juicy watermelon in the summertime. Native to Africa, melons need warm temperatures (up to 80°F during the day) and a long growing season.
Gardeners in colder climates can still have success in growing watermelon vines by starting seeds indoors and choosing short-season varieties. Days to maturity range from 70 to 90, depending on the variety.
PLANTING
If you live in warmer climes, you can sow seeds directly outdoors, but wait until the soil temperature warms to at least 70°F to avoid poor germination.
Watermelon vines are very tender and should not be transplanted until all danger of frost has passed. (To be safe, wait at least two weeks past your last frost date.)
If you are in a cooler zone, start seeds indoors about a month before transplanting.
Amend soil with aged manure, seaweed, and/or compost before planting. Watermelons are heavy feeders.
Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6 and 6.8.
Growing the vines in raised rows, known as hills, ensures good drainage and will hold the sun’s heat longer. Space the plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-wide hill.
If you’re growing in rows, space 6 feet by 6 feet apart.
Watermelons like loamy, well-drained soil. Handle them gently when you transplant.
After you transplant, cover the plants with row covers to keep pests at bay. You’ll remove the row covers when you see both male and female flowers on the vine.
CARE
Mulching with black plastic will serve multiple purposes: it will warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and keep developing fruits clean.
Watering is very important—from planting until fruit begins to form. While melon plants are growing, blooming, and setting fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water per week.
Keep soil moist, but not waterlogged. Water at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to avoid wetting the leaves and avoid overhead watering. Reduce watering once fruit are growing. Dry weather produces the sweetest melon.
If you choose to fertilize (and many do), make sure it delivers more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium. However, after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with less nitrogen. We like to use liquid seaweed.
Pruning isn’t necessary, but vine productivity may be improved if you do not allow lateral (side) vines to grow and stick to the main vine. When the plant is young, just cut off the end buds as they form (before the side shoots become vines). You can also pinch off some blossoms to focus the energy on fewer melons (though it’s a challenge to kill off a potential fruit).
Vines produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. Do not be concerned if the male flowers fall off. The female flowers (which have a swollen bulb at the base) will stay on the vine and bear fruit.
Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so be kind to the bees!
As fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by gently lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the fruit and the soil.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Cucumber Beetles
Squash Vine Borer Moths
Fusarium Wilt
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Miss Chen
2017年07月19日
Nombre científico o latino: Cistus albidus
Nombre común o vulgar: Jara blanca, Jaguarzo blanco, Jara estepa, Estepa blanca, Estepa, Estepilla, Bocha blanca, Jarrilla, Rosajo, Jara blanquinosa.
Familia: Cistaceae.
Origen: Africa del Norte, Sudoeste de Europa.
Hábitat: especie autóctona mediterránea. Crece desde el nivel del mar hasta cerca de los 1.000 m. Forma parte de los matorrales y garrigas que sustituyen a los encinares degradados.
Etimología: Cistus era el nombre de la jara en latín clásico. El epíteto específico albidus significa blanquecino en latín y se refiere al aspecto cromático de sus hojas. El nombre vulgar de jara viene del árabe xara que significa matorral.
Arbusto perenifolio.
Altura: 1-1,5 m.
Hojas son de color gris blanquecino ovaladas y ásperas, las flores son rosadas o moradas y de escasa duración, los estambres son amarillos.
Su follaje es aromático.
Florece entre primavera y verano y prefiere terrenos calcáreos pero no soporta una humedad en exceso.
Sus flores, de color rosa pálido, recuerdan a las rosas.
Las hojas han sido utilizadas por los árabes de Argelia como té, resultando muy digestivo tras comidas pesadas.
En el Levante español, durante épocas de escasez, se han llegado a utilizar las hojas como sucedáneo del tabaco.
Poco usados en jardinería, empiezan a utilizarse ampliamente gracias a su rusticidad, sus atractivas floraciones y a su idoneidad para formar borduras, grupos, o para revestir pendientes peligrosas.
La tonalidad verde grisácea de sus hojas es muy útil para realizar composiciones contrastando los distintos tipos de verdes de los que la flora mediterránea es tan variada.
Es muy indicada para macizos formando manchas monoespecíficas y también en setos bajos de porte natural flanqueando caminos.
Ideal para jardines costeros y zonas secas, áridas.
Arbustos típicos del clima mediterráneo y de muchas zonas del interior de la península.
Soporta heladas no muy fuertes.
Suelo arenoso, permeable y más bien pobre.
Prefiere los suelos calizos pero vive bien en los neutros y en los poco ácidos.
Muy resistente a la sequía, regar solo en los períodos de lluvia en que esta sea escasa o inexistente.
Si se quiere alargar el período de floración se deben quitar los ramilletes de flores marchitas y darle algún riego en el caso de que no llueva a final de primavera.
Cortar las ramas viejas en primavera para mantener la forma.
No toleran los transplantes, por ello se deben plantar en lugares definitivos.
Multiplicación: por esqueje semileñoso en verano y por semillas en otoño.
Sin tratamiento previo de las semilas para favorecer la germinación o en escaldado a 100ºC dejándolas enfriar en el mismo recipiente durante unas horas.
Conservación de las semillas en frío y ambiente seco. En cámara frigorífica de 2-4ºC y humedad inferior al 10%.
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Miss Chen
2017年07月18日
Nombre científico o latino: Buddleja madagascariensis
Nombre común o vulgar: Budelia de invierno. Buddelia de invierno.
Familia: Buddlejaceae.
Origen: Africa, Madagascar.
Hojas: oval lanceoladas, tomentosas de color verde pálido.
Sus flores atraen gran cantidad de insectos lepidópteros y melíferos.
Usos: rocallas, macizos, es una buena planta de maceta y jardinera por moderado crecimiento.
Luz: pleno sol en lugares abrigados.
Poda: debe aplicarse una poda bastante fuerte a fin de obtener una abundante floración.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月01日
Another name for blue daisy
The other name for "Blue Daisy" is African marigold, African Daisy and large flowered blue daisy.
Growth habit of blue eye Chrysanthemum
Blue eye chrysanthemum, originating from South Africa, like sunny and cool climate, avoid hot and cold. In the cultivation of the soil requirements are lax, good drainage can be.
When the reproduction of blue eye chrysanthemum, generally choose the spring sowing method, can also in autumn.
The plant is medium, with beautiful flowers. Blue eye chrysanthemum flowers solitary, open flower, blue and purple flower is.
Morphological character
The plant height of blue daisy is below 60cm. Basal Ye Congsheng, cauline leaves alternate, oblong to obovate, usually pinnately lobed, entire or slightly serrate, with white hairs when young leaves. Flower diameter of 7.5 cm or so, ligulate flower white, apex acuminate, abaxially pale purple to purple disc. There are single, double points. Flowering, summer and autumn.
Often confused with South African marigold flowers, the leaves of the 1 and Echinacea leaves are usually pinnately divided, whereas South African marigold flowers (blue eyes) do not normally split. 2 flowers, blue eye chrysanthemum flower, the flower, only the blue (blue eyes), South African marigold blue, yellow and purple, generally speaking, in the blue eyes of chrysanthemum, kind of cold tolerance will be dark blue in the central part (flower; edge, blue eye chrysanthemum only flower) a white, South African marigold (blue eyes) with purple, pink and white, yellow and other colors.
Propagation by sowing or cutting. autumn .
The ground should be planted with plenty of sunshine; the pot is made of loam and rotten leaves, and some sand is added to it. Blue eye chrysanthemum can be used for flower border, or flowers, water for long periods of time.
The flower language of the blue daisy
The language of the blue daisy is silent.
The other name for "Blue Daisy" is African marigold, African Daisy and large flowered blue daisy.
Growth habit of blue eye Chrysanthemum
Blue eye chrysanthemum, originating from South Africa, like sunny and cool climate, avoid hot and cold. In the cultivation of the soil requirements are lax, good drainage can be.
When the reproduction of blue eye chrysanthemum, generally choose the spring sowing method, can also in autumn.
The plant is medium, with beautiful flowers. Blue eye chrysanthemum flowers solitary, open flower, blue and purple flower is.
Morphological character
The plant height of blue daisy is below 60cm. Basal Ye Congsheng, cauline leaves alternate, oblong to obovate, usually pinnately lobed, entire or slightly serrate, with white hairs when young leaves. Flower diameter of 7.5 cm or so, ligulate flower white, apex acuminate, abaxially pale purple to purple disc. There are single, double points. Flowering, summer and autumn.
Often confused with South African marigold flowers, the leaves of the 1 and Echinacea leaves are usually pinnately divided, whereas South African marigold flowers (blue eyes) do not normally split. 2 flowers, blue eye chrysanthemum flower, the flower, only the blue (blue eyes), South African marigold blue, yellow and purple, generally speaking, in the blue eyes of chrysanthemum, kind of cold tolerance will be dark blue in the central part (flower; edge, blue eye chrysanthemum only flower) a white, South African marigold (blue eyes) with purple, pink and white, yellow and other colors.
Propagation by sowing or cutting. autumn .
The ground should be planted with plenty of sunshine; the pot is made of loam and rotten leaves, and some sand is added to it. Blue eye chrysanthemum can be used for flower border, or flowers, water for long periods of time.
The flower language of the blue daisy
The language of the blue daisy is silent.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年06月30日
Also known as field poppies (field poppy) or Flanders poppy.
The scientific name is Papaver rhoeas.
Poppy, (Papaveraceae) (Abraham biennial) annual plant, native to Europe, North Africa and Asia, has been introduced to Australia, New Zealand and North america.
Peanut in 25W64; 90 cm (10W64; 35 inches) tall on stem top, ca. 7W64 in diam., 10 cm. Petals 4, usually bright red, sometimes with a black spot at the base.
Once widely cultivated poppy weed distribution in seed dormancy years in soil, in the soil by plowing when germination.
During the first World War and after the war, war-torn land opening times of poppy, poppy and become a symbol of the war.
Poppy Shirley (Shirley poppy) is one of the most commonly cultivated species of garden poppy, poppy bred by.
Poppy can be a red dye used as extraction agent of some Tim color wine and drugs.
In fact, a poppy is poppy, because all plant Ranunculus orders, poppy, poppy, are called poppy.
However, most poppies are planted, but the poppy, poppy, opium poppy, poppy, and poppy seeds of the genus Papaver can be used for the manufacture of narcotic drugs, and the State prohibits the cultivation.
Europe, sub continent temperate zone, the world each place has the cultivation, Belgium regards it as the national flower.
Now in China poppy widely cultivated in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces most. Is the fine spring flower beds, flower border and beautify the courtyard, also but potted or cut.
The scientific name is Papaver rhoeas.
Poppy, (Papaveraceae) (Abraham biennial) annual plant, native to Europe, North Africa and Asia, has been introduced to Australia, New Zealand and North america.
Peanut in 25W64; 90 cm (10W64; 35 inches) tall on stem top, ca. 7W64 in diam., 10 cm. Petals 4, usually bright red, sometimes with a black spot at the base.
Once widely cultivated poppy weed distribution in seed dormancy years in soil, in the soil by plowing when germination.
During the first World War and after the war, war-torn land opening times of poppy, poppy and become a symbol of the war.
Poppy Shirley (Shirley poppy) is one of the most commonly cultivated species of garden poppy, poppy bred by.
Poppy can be a red dye used as extraction agent of some Tim color wine and drugs.
In fact, a poppy is poppy, because all plant Ranunculus orders, poppy, poppy, are called poppy.
However, most poppies are planted, but the poppy, poppy, opium poppy, poppy, and poppy seeds of the genus Papaver can be used for the manufacture of narcotic drugs, and the State prohibits the cultivation.
Europe, sub continent temperate zone, the world each place has the cultivation, Belgium regards it as the national flower.
Now in China poppy widely cultivated in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces most. Is the fine spring flower beds, flower border and beautify the courtyard, also but potted or cut.
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stone
2016年12月28日
#lithops #living-stone #succulent Living Stones (Lithops) are unusual succulents that have evolved to resemble the pebbles and rocks that litter their native habitats through southern Africa. These very small plants hug the ground and grow extremely slowly. It can take years for a plant to eventually fill its pots with new leaves. Structurally, Lithops are comprised of two fused leaves above ground that connect to an underground stem with a long root.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years。
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years。
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
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rebeccamee：Not so familiar with this plant but they look cute, will give it a thought to grow them if I have more room to keep all my succulents
