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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you are a lover of all things spicy, you should be growing your own horseradish. Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) is a hardy perennial herb that has been popular for over 3,000 years. Harvesting horseradish plants is a simple task and the resulting condiment can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks. Keep reading to find out how and when to harvest horseradish root.
When to Harvest Horseradish Horseradish is cultivated for its pungent root. The plant is a large leaved herb that thrives in full sun but tolerates some shade. Hardy to USDA zone 3, horseradish is resistant to most diseases and adaptable to many soil types. Plant horseradish in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Prepare the soil by digging down 8-10 inches and incorporating a generous amount of compost. Amend the soil further with either a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of one pound per 100 square feet or well decayed manure. Let the plot stand undisturbed for a few days before planting the horseradish. Set the horseradish root cuttings or “sets” either vertically or at a 45-degree angle, spaced one foot apart from each other. Cover the roots with 2-3 inches of soil. Mulch around the plants with compost or leaves to help retain moisture, cool the soil and control weeds. You can then leave the plants to grow with little other maintenance other than weeding and water or you can strip the roots. Stripping the roots will give you the best horseradish roots. To do this, remove the soil around the upper ends of the main root, leaving the other roots undisturbed. Remove all but the healthiest sprout or leaves and rub off all the tiny roots from the crown and along the sides of the main root. Return the root to its hole and fill in with soil. Now that the horseradish is growing nicely, how do you know when it’s horseradish harvesting time? Horseradish growing season is during the late summer into early fall. So you won’t be harvesting horseradish plants until late October or early November, one year after planting.
How to Harvest Horseradish Root Horseradish harvesting is a simple process. Dig a trench down a foot or two along one side of the row of plants. Dig the roots from the opposite side of the row, loosening them with a fork or shovel. Grasp the tops of the plants and tug them gently from the soil. Trim back the foliage, leaving about an inch. Trim off side and bottom roots. Save any that are 8 inches or longer for the following year’s planting stock. If you are overwintering planting stock, tie clean root cuttings together and store them in moist sand in a cool, dark area of between 32-40 degrees F. (0-4 C.). If you are storing the root for future culinary use, wash it and dry it well. Store the root in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable crisper for 3 months or even longer…or go ahead and process it for use.
To process for use as a condiment, wash the root well and peel it. Cut into half inch slices and puree in a blender or food processer along with ¼ cup water and some crushed ice. If you like it hot, let the puree stand for three minutes and then add 2-3 tbs. of white wine or rice vinegar and ½ tsp of salt for each cup of horseradish puree. If you want a milder condiment, add the vinegar and salt immediately after pureeing. If it is too runny for your taste, use a fine meshed sieve or cheesecloth to drain out some of the liquid. The resulting condiment can be stored in a sealed container for up to 4-6 weeks in your refrigerator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Fresh horseradish is absolutely delicious and the good news is it’s easy to grow your own. Horseradish is said to have many health benefits and also contains oil called isothiocyanate that has antibacterial and antifungal qualities. This makes me think that companion plants for horseradish might get a huge benefit. Read on to find out about companion planting with horseradish and what grows well with horseradish.
Companion Planting with Horseradish Companion planting is a method of planting two or more plants that have a symbiotic relationship; that is, they mutually benefit one another is some way. Most plants benefit from this practice and planting companions for horseradish is no exception. As mentioned, horseradish contains oil that helps to curb fungal and microbial movement. While it doesn’t prevent infection, it can curtail it which makes horseradish a boon to many other plants, but what are companions for horseradish?
What Grows Well with Horseradish? Horseradish not only helps ward off diseases, but it makes an excellent insect repellent. For this reason, potatoes and horseradish grow very well together. Horseradish repels: Potato bugs Potato beetles Aphids Blister beetles Whiteflies Some caterpillars If you decide to try this particular horseradish plant companion combo, be advised that horseradish spreads rapidly and is easily propagated from even the tiniest bit of root left in the ground. So plant it at the corners of the potato patch or, better yet, in pots near the patch.
Fruit trees and brambles also make good horseradish plant companions; plant horseradish at the base of small fruit trees or in amongst berries or grapes to get the benefits of its insect repellent qualities. The root is also said to deter birds and small rodents, like moles and field mice, from eating up all the fruit. The same cannot be said of squirrels, however, but (in my experience) nothing deters a determined squirrel. Sweet potatoes, strawberries, asparagus and rhubarb are all said to make wonderful horseradish plant companions. Again, in every instance, the companion plants seem to get all the benefits from the horseradish. That’s okay, plant it anyway. Horseradish has numerous health benefits for humans too. It is a cancer fighting cruciferous, high in vitamin C, can be used as a gastric stimulant or a topical pain reliever, and don’t forget its antibacterial and antibiotic qualities. A very useful plant, one that is easily grown, is companion plant friendly or can stand alone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is an herbaceous perennial in the family Brassicaceae. Since the plants do not produce viable seeds, propagation of horseradish is via root or crown cuttings. These hardy plants can become quite invasive, so dividing horseradish plants becomes a necessity. The question is when to split horseradish roots. The following article contains information on how to divide a horseradish plant and other useful information on horseradish root division.
When to Split Horseradish Roots Horseradish is suited for growing in USDA zones 4-8. The plant grows best in full sun to partial sun in warmer regions, in almost all soil types provided they are well-draining and highly fertile with a pH of 6.0-7.5, and thrive in cooler temperatures. Horseradish root division should occur when the leaves have been killed off by frost or late in the fall in warmer regions. If you live in a really warm area where ground temps stay above 40 degrees F. (4 C.) year round, horseradish can be grown as an annual and roots will be harvested and stored in the refrigerator until propagation of horseradish in the spring.
How to Divide a Horseradish Plant Prior to dividing horseradish plants in the fall, prepare the planting site by weeding and raking out any large pieces of detritus. Amend the soil with 4 inches of compost and coarse sand, and dig it into a depth of one foot. Loosen the soil around the plants, about 3 inches out from the crown and down 10 inches into the soil. Lift the plants carefully from the ground with a fork or shovel. Brush off the large clumps of soil from the roots and then wash them with a garden hose to remove the remaining dirt. Let them dry in a shaded area. Wash a sharp gardening knife with hot soap and water and then sanitize with rubbing alcohol to remove any pathogens that might infect the roots prior to cutting into them. Dry the knife with a paper towel. Propagation of horseradish is done with either root or crown cuttings. Regions with short growing seasons should use the crown method. To create crown cuttings, slice the plant into equal portions with an even share of foliage and roots. For root cuttings, slice the slender side roots into 6- to 8-inch long sections, each with a diameter of around ¼ inch.
In your prepared planting site, dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the root of the cutting. Plant the new horseradish plants 2 feet apart in rows that are 30 inches apart. Backfill around the plants until the root is covered. If using crown cuttings, fill in until the base of the stems are even with the rest of the bed. Water the cuttings in well, down to a 4-inch depth. Lay 3 inches of mulch down between the cuttings, leaving an inch between the mulch layer and the plants to help retain moisture. If you lack rain during the winter months, water each week down to a depth of an inch. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Only people who have grown horseradish in their garden know how truly pungent and delicious horseradish can be. Growing horseradish in your garden is easy. Just follow these tips on how to grow horseradish and you will be harvesting horseradish for many years to come.
Planting Horseradish A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you. As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic is a bulb and because it is a bulb, most garlic varieties need to have a certain amount of cold weather to form the tasty bulbs we like to eat. For gardeners in warmer climates, this can be a frustrating fact, but not one that needs to keep them from growing garlic in the garden. A little knowledge about garlic and garlic varieties is all it takes to know how to grow garlic successfully in warmer climates.
Garlic Varieties Gardeners in warmer climates, USDA zones 7-9, will have a difficult time growing garlic in the garden from just any garlic varieties. Most likely you will want to look for some of the gourmet or heirloom cultivars that grow well in warmer weather. These cultivars include: Creoles Asiatic Hardnecks Marbled Purple Stripe These cultivars may not be available at your local garden center but can be found online at many reputable online garlic dealers.
How to Plant Garlic When and how to plant garlic in warmer climates is a bit different than in cooler climates. For one, you can plant the garlic later and for two, you can harvest it sooner. Plan to plant your garlic in late October through early December. When you plant your garlic, what you will be doing is growing garlic from cloves, so take one clove off the bulb and plant it into the prepared bed. Remember, just like flower bulbs, the pointy end of the clove goes up. You will want to plant the garlic clove about 8 to 10 inches down in the dirt. Space them about 6 to 8 inches apart. How Does Garlic Grow in the Winter? In warmer climates, you can expect to see growth from your garlic all winter long. This will appear in the form of garlic greens coming from the clove. In cooler climates, the greens don’t grow until spring. Don’t worry about the occasional drop in temperature, as garlic and its greens are more than able to handle the cold.
When to Harvest Garlic In late spring or early summer, your garlic plant will start to flower. Let it flower. Once the flower is dead and the leaves have browned one-half to two-thirds of the way down the stem, dig up your garlic. This should happen no later than July. Once you have harvested your garlic, you can store it and save some for growing garlic from cloves again in a few months. The mystery of how to grow garlic in warmer climates is not really a mystery at all. With the right varieties and the right planting schedule, you too can be growing garlic in the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
So you planted garlic in the garden and you let it grow all winter and all spring and now you are wondering when you should be harvesting garlic. If you dig it up too soon, the bulbs will be teeny and if you dig it too late, the bulbs will be split and no good for eating, so knowing when to harvest garlic is an important thing.
When Do You Harvest Garlic? The easiest way to know when to harvest garlic is simply to look at the leaves. When the leaves are one-third brown, you’ll need to start testing the bulbs to see if they are the proper size. This is easy to do. Simply loosen the dirt above one or two garlic bulbs and get an idea of their size while still keeping them in the ground. If they look large enough, then you’re ready to make your garden garlic harvest. If they’re still too small, then your garlic will need to grow a bit more. You don’t want to wait too long, though. Once the leaves get to be one-half to two-thirds brown, you should harvest the garlic regardless of size. Putting off harvesting garlic until after the leaves are completely brown will only result in an inedible bulb. Your garden garlic harvest will normally happen some time in July or August if you are in a climate that is ideal for garlic growth. In warmer climates, you can expect to be harvesting garlic as early as spring, though only certain garlic varieties will perform well in warm climates.
How to Harvest Garlic Now that you know when to harvest garlic, you need to know how to harvest garlic. While it may seem like harvesting garlic is just a matter of digging the bulbs out of the ground, there are a few things to keep in mind. Dig, don’t pull. When you are harvesting garlic, you need to dig it out of the ground. If you try to pull it out, you will only break the leaves off. Be gentle. Freshly dug garlic bulbs will bruise easily and it is easy to accidentally slice a bulb open while digging if you aren’t careful. When harvesting garlic, lift each bulb individually from the ground. Place it in a container where it won’t get jostled too much.
Get the garlic out of the sun as soon as possible. Garlic will blanch and burn in the sun. Put the freshly dug unwashed bulbs in a dark, dry place as soon as possible. Now you know when to harvest garlic and how to harvest garlic. Really, the only thing left to do is eat your garden garlic harvest.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there’s no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves.
Garlic Seed Propagation Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic. Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic is an easy to grow plant that is used for its bulb and its greens. Garlic scapes are the first tender green shoots on garlic which will become bulbils. They are edible when young and add a delicate garlic flavor to salads, soups and sauces. You can use them just as you would use chives. Most gardeners wouldn’t encourage growing garlic scapes but when they appear, remove them and use them for early spring flavor.
What is a Garlic Scape? Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor. Should I Cut Garlic Scapes? Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days. Using Garlic Scapes Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Now that you have successfully grown and harvested your garlic, it is time to decide how to store your aromatic crop. The best way to store garlic depends on how you intend to use it. Continue reading to learn more about how to store fresh picked garlic from your garden, including garlic storage before planting more next year.
How to Store Garlic There are a number of methods for storing garlic from the garden. Once harvested, you’ll need to decide how to store garlic based on your preferences and what you plan on doing with your crop. Storing Garlic at Room Temperature Spread some newspapers out in a location away from sunlight and in a cool, well-ventilated area. Allow the garlic to dry for at least two weeks, in a mesh bag or airy container, until the skins become paper like. This air-dry storage method preserves garlic for five to eight months. How to Store Garlic by Freezing Frozen garlic is perfect for soups and stews, and can be achieved one of three ways: Chop garlic and wrap tightly in freezer wrap. Break or grate off as needed. Leave garlic unpeeled and freeze, removing cloves as needed. Freeze garlic by blending some garlic cloves with oil in a blender using two parts olive oil to one part garlic. Scrape out what is needed.
How to Store Fresh Picked Garlic by Drying Garlic must be fresh, firm and bruise-free to dry using heat. Separate and peel cloves and cut lengthwise. Dry cloves at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for two hours and then at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) until dry. When garlic is crisp, it is ready. You can make garlic powder from fresh, dried garlic by blending until fine. To make garlic salt, you can add four parts sea salt to one part garlic salt and blend for a few seconds. Storing Garlic in Vinegar or Wine Peeled cloves can be stored in vinegar and wine by submerging them and storing in the refrigerator. Use garlic as long as there is no mold growth or surface yeast in the wine or vinegar. Do not store on the counter, as mold will develop.
Garlic Storage Before Planting If you want to keep some of your harvest for planting next season, just harvest as usual and store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Now that you know how to store fresh picked garlic from the garden, you can decide the best way to store garlic based on your individual needs.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Most epicureans use garlic on an almost daily basis to enhance the flavor of our culinary creations. Another plant that can be used to impart a similar, though lighter, flavor of garlic is the elephant garlic. How do you grow elephant garlic and what are some of elephant garlic uses? Read on to learn more.
What is Elephant Garlic? Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
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