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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Many people don’t realize that a mustard seed plant is the same plant as a mustard greens plant (Brassica juncea). This versatile plant can be grown as a vegetable and eaten like other greens or, if allowed to flower and go to seed, mustard seeds can be harvested and used as a spice in cooking or ground into a popular condiment. Learning how to grow mustard seeds is easy and rewarding.
How to Plant Mustard Seed Mustard seed plants are normally grown from seed but can be grown from purchased seedlings as well. When selecting mustard seeds for planting, any mustard plant grown for greens can also be grown for mustard seed. Plant the mustard seed about three weeks before your last frost date. Since you’ll be harvesting the mustard seed, there’s no need to use succession planting like you do with mustard greens. Plant your mustard seeds about an inch apart. Once they sprout, thin the seedlings so that they are 6 inches apart. Mustard plants grown for seed are planted further apart than plants grown for just leaves as the mustard plant will be getting much larger before it flowers. If you are planting purchased mustard seedlings, plant these 6 inches apart as well.
How to Grow Mustard Seeds Once mustard seed plants start growing, they need little care. They enjoy cool weather and will bolt (flower) quickly in warmer weather. While this may seem like a great thing if you are looking to grow mustard seeds, it is not. Mustard plants that bolt due to warm weather will produce poor flowers and seeds. It’s best to keep them on their normal flowering cycle to be able to harvest the best mustard seeds. Mustard seed plants need 2 inches of water a week. Normally, during cool weather, you should get enough rainfall to supply this, but if you don’t, you’ll need to do additional watering. Mustard seed plants don’t need fertilizer if they have been planted in well amended garden soil, but if you’re unsure if your soil is nutrient rich, you can add a balanced fertilizer to the roots once the plants are 3 to 4 inches tall.
How to Harvest Mustard Seeds The mustard plants will eventually flower and go to seed. The flowers of mustard seed plant are generally yellow but some varieties have white flowers. As the mustard flower grows and matures, it will form pods. Watch for these pods to start to turn brown. Another sign that you are nearing harvest time will be that the leaves of the plant will start to yellow. Be careful not to leave the pods on the mustard seed plant for too long as they will burst open when fully ripe and the mustard seed harvest will be lost. The next step in harvesting mustard seeds is to remove the seeds from the pods. You can do this with your hands, or you can place the flower heads in a paper bag and allow them to finish maturing. The pods will open on their own in one to two weeks and a gentle shake of the bag will shake loose most of the mustard seeds. Mustard seeds can be used fresh, but like other herbs and spices, if you plant on storing them long term, they will need to be dried.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Originating from Eurasia, motherwort herb (Leonurus cardiaca) is now naturalized throughout southern Canada and east of the Rocky Mountains and more commonly deemed a weed with a rapid spreading habitat. Motherwort herb growing commonly occurs in neglected gardens, open woods, floodplains, riverbanks, meadows, fields, riverbanks, and along roadsides; really just about anywhere. But what is motherwort besides a rather invasive plant? Keep reading to find out.
Motherwort Plant Info Motherwort plant info lists its other common names of cowthwort, lion’s ear, and lion’s tail. Motherwort herb growing in the wild appears as a sturdy stemmed perennial of up to 5 feet tall with pink to pale purple clustered flowers of six to 15 axils, or spaces between the leaf and stem, and prickly sepals. Like other members of the mint family, the foliage, when crushed, has a distinct odor. Flowers appear from July through September. Motherwort prefers moist, rich soils and hails from the mint family, Labiatae, with the same growing propensity of most mints too. Motherwort herb growing occurs via seed reproduction and spreads through rhizomes to form large colonies. Although shallow, the root system is very extensive. Motherwort herbs may occur in either sun or dense shade, and as mentioned in a plethora of areas. It is also extremely difficult to eradicate. Attempts to control rampant motherwort plants may include improving soil drainage and mowing close to the ground each time the shoots erupt from the soil.
Motherwort Uses The genus of motherwort’s botanical name of Leonurus cardiaca, is descriptive of its ragged edged leaves, which resemble the tip of a lion’s tail. The species name of ‘cardiaca’ (meaning “for the heart”) is in reference to its early medicinal use for heart ailments – stimulating the heart muscle, promoting blood circulation, treating arteriosclerosis, dissolving blood clots and treating rapid heartbeat. Other motherwort uses are purported to be remedial for nerves, dizziness and “disorders of women” such as menopause and following childbirth. Motherwort herb growing is said to bring on scanty or absent menstruation and to relieve water retention, PMS, and stress or tension resulting from painful menstruation. Motherwort is prepared as either a tincture or tea for relief from any of these ailments. A caution regarding motherwort is that it contains lemon scented oil, which can cause photosensitivity if eaten and also contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
How to Care for Motherwort Plants Provided that after reading my repeated commentary regarding how invasive motherwort is, you still wish to grow your own, the “how to” care for motherwort is very simple. Motherwort is an extremely hardy weed or herb, depending upon who you ask and only requires sun to light shade, most any soil type and enough water to keep moist. Motherwort herb growing will occur and steadily increase with seed broadcasting. Once the herb has laid roots, continued growth of the motherwort colony is guaranteed, and then some! Last warning, motherwort herb is a prolific and unbridled easy-to-grow plant with a propensity to take over the garden – so gardener beware. (That said, you may be able to control its rampant growth by growing the herb in containers much like its cousin the mint plant.)
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
What is Mexican tarragon? Native to Guatemala and Mexico, this perennial, heat-loving herb is grown primarily for its flavorful licorice-like leaves. The marigold-like flowers that show up in late summer and autumn are a delightful bonus. Most commonly called Mexican marigold (Tagetes lucida), it is known by a number of alternate names, such as false tarragon, Spanish tarragon, winter tarragon, Texas tarragon or Mexican mint marigold. Read on for all you need to know about growing Mexican tarragon plants.
How to Grow Mexican Tarragon Mexican tarragon is perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. In zone 8, the plant is usually nipped by frost, but grows back in spring. In other climates, Mexican tarragon plants are often grown as annuals. Plant Mexican tarragon in well-drained soil, as the plant is likely to rot in wet soil. Allow 18 to 24 inches between each plant; Mexican tarragon is a large plant that can reach 2 to 3 feet tall, with a similar width. Although Mexican tarragon plants tolerate partial shade, the flavor is best when the plant is exposed to full sunlight. Keep in mind that Mexican tarragon may reseed itself. Additionally, new plants are generated whenever the tall stems bend over and touch the soil.
Caring for Mexican Tarragon Although Mexican tarragon plants are relatively drought tolerant, the plants are bushier and healthier with regular irrigation. Water only when the surface of the soil is dry, as Mexican tarragon won’t tolerate consistently soggy soil. However, don’t allow the soil to become bone dry. Water Mexican tarragon at the base of the plant, as wetting the foliage may lead to various moisture-related diseases, especially rot. A drip system or soaker hose works well.
Harvest Mexican tarragon plants regularly. The more often you harvest, the more the plant will produce. Early morning, when the essential oils are well distributed through the plant, is the best time to harvest. Mexican tarragon requires no fertilizer. Pests are generally not a concern.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you are lucky enough to live in a neighborhood populated by Caribbean or South American grocers, have lived or visited those areas, or are yourself from the tropics or South America, then you may be familiar with malanga root uses. Everyone else is probably saying “what is a malanga root?” Read on to find out more malanga plant info and about growing malanga roots in the garden.
Malanga Plant Info Malanga is very similar to taro and eddo, and can be easily confused with them. In fact, in some areas, malanga root is called eddo, as well as yautia, cocoyam, coco, tannia, sato-imo and Japanese potato. The plant is grown for its tubers, or belembe or calalous, which are used in a variety of dishes. What is a Malanga Root? In North America, malanga is more commonly referred to as “elephant ear” and is generally grown as an ornamental. At the base of the plant is the corm or tuber around which radiate smaller corms. The plant’s foliage can grow up to five feet long with huge leaves that look much akin to elephant ears. The young leaves are edible and used like spinach. The corm or tuber is earthy brown, looks kind of like big yam and can range from anywhere between ½ to 2 pounds in size. The exterior hides the crisp interior yellow to reddish flesh.
Malanga Root Uses In South America and other tropical regions, malanga tubers are commonly cultivated for use in the cuisines of those regions. The flavor is like a starchy nut. The tuber is high in calories and fiber along with riboflavin and folate. It also contains a modicum of iron and vitamin C. It is often ground into flour but is also stewed, grilled, and sliced and then fried. For people with food allergies, malanga flour is an excellent substitute for wheat flour. This is because the starch grains contained in malanga are smaller, thus more easily digestible which reduces the risk of allergic reaction. As mentioned, the young leaves are also edible and are often used in stews and other dishes. In Cuba and Puerto Rico, malanga features prominently in such dishes as alcapurrias, mondongo, pastels and sancocho; while in the Caribbean, the young leaves are integral to the famous callaloo. Basically, malanga root can be used anywhere you would use a potato, yam or other root veggie. As with most other species of Araceae, malanga root contains calcium oxalate and saponin, whose bitter taste and toxic effects are cancelled out during cooking. When the root is cooked, it softens and is ideal for use as a thickener and to make creamy dishes. The root is also often cooked down and mashed as potatoes for a creamy side dish. Malanga can be peeled, grated and then mixed with flour, egg, and herbs to make fritters. Fresh malanga root can be kept at room temperature for a few weeks and even longer if kept in the refrigerator.
Growing Malanga Roots There are two different malangas. Malanga blanca (Xantyosoma sagittifikium), which is grown on dry land, and malanga Amarillo (Colocasia esculenta), which is grown in boggy areas. Malanga plants need full sun, temperatures above 68 degrees F. (20 C.) and damp, but well-draining soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 7.8. Propagate by planting the entire main tuber or secondary tubers of just a piece of the main tuber. If you are using seed pieces, cure them first by dipping them into a fungicide and then allow to air dry for 2 hours. Plant 3-4 inches deep in rows spaced 72 inches apart. Use an organic mulch to retain moisture and apply a 10-20-20 fertilizer, three times. Feed the plant first at 2 months and thereafter at 5 and 7 months.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Most people think of licorice as a flavor. If asked to come up with licorice in its most basic form, you might very well pick those long, ropy black candies. But where does licorice come from? Believe it or not, licorice is a plant, known for its strong and sweet flavor. Keep reading to learn more about growing licorice and licorice plant care.
Licorice Plant Information What is a licorice plant? Related to peas and beans, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is a flowering perennial that grows to about 5 feet tall. Its scientific name, Glycyrrhiza, comes from the Ancient Greek words glykys, meaning “sweet,” and rhiza, meaning “root.” Just like the name suggests, the part of the plant that contains that distinctive flavor is its extensive root system. Native to Eurasia, it has a long history of use from China to Ancient Egypt to Central Europe both as a sweetener (it is 50 times sweeter than sugar) and as a medicine (even today it is widely used in throat lozenges). To harvest the plants, the roots are dug up and squeezed of their juice, which is boiled down to an extract.
Licorice Plant Care Can you grow licorice plants? Absolutely! Licorice is very common in the wild in Eurasia and parts of North America, but it can also be cultivated. You can either plant seeds in a greenhouse in the fall, transplanting them outdoors in spring, or (and this is much easier) divide the rhizome of an older plant in the spring. Just make sure that each section of rhizome has a bud attached to it.
Licorice plant care is not difficult. The plants like alkaline, sandy, moist soil. Cold hardiness varies greatly from species to species (American licorice is the toughest, hardy down to zone 3). Licorice plants are slow to get established, but once they get going, they can become aggressive. Keep your plant in check by harvesting its rhizomes regularly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
The lemon verbena plant (Aloysia citrodora) is native to the countries of Chile and Argentina. The lemon verbena herb is an aromatic shrub, its leaves holding their fragrance even after being dried for years. The lemon verbena plant has a fragrant, lemony smell, small white flowers and narrow leaves. Read on to learn more about growing lemon verbena.
How Do I Grow Lemon Verbena? Growing lemon verbena isn’t too difficult. The lemon verbena herb is a sensitive one, preferring warmth to cold and having a high water requirement. Lemon verbena seeds or cuttings are used when you want to generate a new plant. In other words, you can propagate the plant or grow it fresh from the seeds. The cuttings of lemon verbena plants can be placed in a jar of water while you wait for new roots to form. Once they form, wait a few weeks for a good root structure to exist before planting the plant into soil. Once you see some good roots, you can plant it in a container with normal potting soil or outdoors if you live in a warm climate. As far as growing lemon verbena from seed, you can start them in your normal starting planters. Just remember that both the seeds and the cuttings need plenty of sunshine to form a good plant. Once you see the seedlings and they have grown several leaves, you can transplant the seedlings into normal sized pots.
Some Lemon Verbena Uses Some of the most common lemon verbena uses include putting the leaves and flowers in teas and to flavor alcoholic beverages. You can use the lemon verbena herbs in desserts and jams. It is also wonderful in a good fruit salad. The lemon verbena plant is sometimes used in making perfumes. There are toilet waters and colognes that include the herb in their ingredients. Medicinally, the flowers and leaves of the lemon verbena herb have been used to help with certain medical conditions. Lemon verbena uses include using it medicinally as an antipyretic (fever reducer), sedative, stomachic and antispasmodic.
So now you know that growing lemon verbena is not that difficult and requires very little work. You also know that lemon verbena uses include human consumption both medicinally and as an herb, and that it is safe for human consumption. Lemon verbena plants are very versatile, so when you include it in an herb garden, know that you have included a very useful plant indeed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pruning lavender is important in keeping a lavender plant producing the type of fragrant foliage that most gardeners seek. If lavender isn’t pruned regularly, it will become woody and produce fewer fragrant leaves and flowers. If you’re wondering how to prune lavender and when to prune lavender at the correct time, have no fear. All of this information is listed below.
When to Prune Lavender You’ll start trimming lavender in the second year that it is in the ground. Newly planted or very young plants need a chance to establish themselves, and in order to do this, they need to be able to focus on growing roots. If you cut back lavender in its first year, it will put energy towards growing leaves rather than roots and this will make it a weaker plant in the long term. Once your lavender plant has had one year to establish itself, you’ll need to prune your lavender once a year. The best time for when to prune lavender is in the spring just as the new growth is starting to come in.
How to Prune Lavender When pruning lavender, it’s important to start out with a sharp, clean set of pruning shears. Wipe down the blades of your pruning shears with rubbing alcohol or bleach to make sure all bacteria and potentially harmful germs are removed from the blades. The next step for trimming lavender is to prune one-third of the plant. This will force the lavender to create new and more growth, which will not only keep the lavender bush from going woody, but will also help to increase the amount of lavender available for harvest later in the season. Properly pruning lavender will help your lavender produce more and stay healthier and more lovely. If you follow these easy tips for how to prune lavender, you can’t go wrong.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Can you ever have too many lavender plants? This article explains how to propagate lavender from cuttings. The project doesn’t require any special equipment, and it’s easy enough for a beginner. Read on to learn more.
Propagating Lavender Plants You can start lavender from hardwood or softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are taken from the soft, pliable tips of new growth. Hardwood is thicker than softwood and resists bending. It may snap if you force it to bend. The best type of cutting to use depends on the type of lavender and the time of year. Softwood cuttings are plentiful in spring, and you can gather more of them without destroying the parent plant. They root quickly but aren’t as reliable as hardwood cuttings. While softwood cuttings are only available in spring, you can take hardwood cuttings in spring or fall. Some types of lavender bloom freely, making it hard to get a blossom-free stem when the wood is soft. Blossoms drain the plant of energy, and it’s unlikely that a stem will have the resources to form good roots if it is trying to bloom. These free-blooming plants are best rooted from hardwood cuttings.
Taking Cuttings from Lavender Regardless of the type of cutting, you should always cut healthy, straight, vigorous stems for rooting. Choose stems with good color and no buds. Use a sharp knife to take a hardwood or softwood cutting measuring 3 to 4 inches long. Cut hardwood stems just below a bump that indicates a leaf node. Remove all of the leaves from the lower 2 inches of the stem and then gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Set the cutting aside while you prepare the container. Fill a small pot with commercial starting medium or a homemade mix of half vermiculite or perlite and half peat moss, with a little bark added to facilitate drainage. Dip the stripped tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, if desired. Rooting hormone helps prevent the tip from rotting and encourages quick, strong root development, but lavender roots well without it. Stick the lower end of the cutting about 2 inches into the soil and firm the soil so that the cutting stands up straight. Cover with plastic to form a greenhouse-like environment for the cuttings.
Lavender Cuttings Care Softwood cuttings from lavender root in two to four weeks, and hardwood cuttings take a little longer. Check to see if the stems have roots by giving them a gentle tug. If you feel resistance, the stem has roots holding it in place. Wait several days between tugs as you can damage tender, young roots by tugging on them too often. Remove the plastic bag when the cutting has roots. Set the new plant in a sunny location and water it when the soil is dry an inch or so below the surface. Feed the plant with one-quarter strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week. If you plan to keep the plant in a pot for more than two or three weeks, transplant it into a larger pot with regular potting soil that drains freely. Commercial potting soils have plenty of nutrients to maintain the plants without supplemental feedings. Propagation of lavender from cuttings is easy and more likely to be successful than growing the plants from seeds. With cuttings, you can rest assured that your new plants will be exactly like the parent plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lavender shrubs bear bright, fragrant blossoms and can live for 20 years or more. However, after six or eight years, they can begin to look woody, filled with dead wood and bearing fewer of the sweet-smelling flowers. Don’t give up on these plants. If you want to know what to do with woody lavender, understand that pruning woody lavender plants can often restore them to their former glory. Read on to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems.
Preventing Woody Lavender Prevention is always easier than cure. If you have young, healthy lavender plants, you can work at preventing woody lavender with appropriate planting and cultural care. The keys to lavender care are good drainage and minimal fertilizer. Plant your lavender in well-drained, rocky soil, on a slope (if possible) to ensure drainage. Fertilize them lightly the very first year after planting. After that, do not fertilize regularly. Prune lavender lightly to maintain the rounded shape.
What to Do with Woody Lavender When you notice that your lavender is woody, it’s time to take action to help it recover. Here’s what to do with woody lavender plants: prune them. Pruning woody lavender plants is the key to rejuvenating them. For restorative pruning, be sure to sterilize the pruners by soaking them in a solution of water and denatured alcohol to prevent disease spread. It’s also important that the tool blades are sharp. Prune these lavender in spring when all frost is finished for the season. A frost can kill off new plant growth.
How to Trim a Lavender with Woody Stems It isn’t hard to learn how to trim a lavender with woody stems. The basic rule of pruning lavender is not to trim into brown, dead wood. You’ll usually find brown branches at the base of the plant. Remove them only when they are truly dead. Never cut them back, hoping to stimulate new growth. The plant cannot produce new growth from the woody parts. When you’re pruning woody lavender plants, it’s also a good idea not to prune all of the plant at the same time. Instead, work slowing, trimming back each branch but never into the brown wood. You can trim branches back by one-third or one-half. Always be sure that there are green leaves on the plant when you are done pruning. The entire restoration may take several years to accomplish, as you never want to do too much pruning at one time. Prune again in autumn just to shape the plant, then weed all around it and offer a handful of slow-release granular fertilizer to help get your lavender growing well before the winter cold snap.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lavender is a favorite herb of a lot of gardeners, and for good reason. Its soothing color and fragrance can pervade your garden when fresh and your home when dried. Few can resist its charms. Unfortunately, few live in a climate similar to its hot and sandy Mediterranean home. If your winters are too cold or your soil is too dense, or even if you just want that fragrance closer to home, growing lavender in pots is a great idea. Keep reading to learn about potted lavender care and how to grow lavender in containers.
Growing Lavender in Pots Lavender can be grown from seed or from cuttings. The seeds should be placed on top of sandy soil and covered lightly with a layer of perlite. They ought to sprout in two to three weeks. Cuttings should be taken from plants just below a node (where a set of leaves join the stem), dipped in root hormone, and stuck into warm, moist, sandy soil. No matter how you start your container grown lavender plants, it’s important to choose the right container and potting mix. Lavender doesn’t like to be damp, but it does need water. This means good drainage is essential to lavender container care. Pick a container that has plenty of drainage holes. If it only has one or two, drill a few more. If you plan on keeping the pot inside, you’ll need a saucer to catch the water, but avoid pots with saucers attached to the bottom. Choose a sandy, alkaline, well-draining potting mix with slow-release fertilizer pellets.
Potted Lavender Care Lavender container care is all about maintaining the right temperature, sun exposure, and water level. Luckily, none of this is very intensive. Place your container grown lavender plants somewhere they receive full sun (at least 8 hours per day) and water them sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings, but don’t let it get so dry that the plant wilts. Lavender likes heat, and many varieties won’t survive a cold winter. The beauty of growing lavender in pots is that it can be moved to avoid dangerous conditions. When temperatures start to fall, bring your container grown lavender plants inside to tough the winter out by placing them in a window that receives full sun.
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