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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic is found in almost every cuisine on the planet. This popularity has led more and more people to cultivate their own bulbs. This leads one to wonder how to save garlic for next year’s crop.
How to Save Garlic for Next Year Garlic originates from Central Asia but has been cultivated for over 5,000 years in Mediterranean countries. The ancient Greeks and Romans enjoyed garlic with reports of gladiator consuming the bulb prior to battle. Egyptian slaves are purported to have consumed the bulb to give them strength to build the great pyramids. Garlic is one of 700 species in the Allium or onion family, of which there are three specific types of garlic: softneck (Allium sativum), hardneck (Allium ophioscorodon), and elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum). Garlic is a perennial but is usually grown as an annual. It is a relatively easy plant to grow provided it has full sun exposure and well amended and well draining soil. Your garlic will be ready for harvest in the mid to late summer. Leave the bulbs in the ground as long as possible to allow them to attain maximum size, but not so long that the cloves begin to separate. which adversely affects garlic bulb storage. Wait for the foliage to die back and begin to brown, then carefully lift the bulbs out of the soil, taking care not to cut the bulb. Fresh bulbs bruise easily, which may encourage infection and affect the storing garlic bulbs, effectively cutting their shelf life.
Storing Garlic Bulbs When storing garlic bulbs, cut the garlic stalks an inch above the bulb. When saving garlic stock for the next year, the bulbs need to be cured first. Curing bulbs simply involves drying the garlic in a dry, warm, dark and ventilated area for a few weeks. Select your largest bulbs when saving garlic stock for planting the following year. Curing the garlic bulbs properly is crucial to storing garlic for planting. If you cure outdoors, the bulbs risk sunburn and poorly ventilated areas my facilitate disease and mildew. Hanging the bulbs from the stalks in a dark airy space is one of the best methods. Curing will take anywhere from ten to 14 days. The bulbs will be successfully cured when the neck has constricted, the center of the stem has hardened and the outer skins are dry and crisp. Proper storage is also crucial when saving garlic stock for planting. While garlic will keep for a short time at room temperatures of between 68-86 degrees F. (20-30 C.), the bulbs will begin to degrade, soften, and shrivel. For long term storage, garlic should be kept at temps between 30-32 degrees F. (-1 to 0 C.) in well ventilated containers and will keep for six to eight months.
If, however, the goal of storing garlic is strictly for planting, the bulbs should be stored at 50 degrees F. (10 C.) at a relative humidity of 65-70 percent. If the bulb is stored between 40-50 degrees F., (3-10 C.) it will easily break dormancy and result in side shoot sprouting (witches brooms) and premature maturation. Storage above 65 degrees F. (18 C.) results in late maturations and delayed sprouting. Be sure to plant only seed garlic that has been properly stored and keep an eye out for any garlic blight nematodes. This nematode causes bloated, twisted, swollen leaves with cracked, mottled bulbs and weakens plants. When saving and storing garlic stock from one year to the next, plant only seed bulbs that appear unblemished and healthy for best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Companion planting is a modern term applied to an age old practice. American Indians certainly utilized companion planting when cultivating their vegetables. Among the myriad of companion plant options, planting garlic with tomatoes, as well as with other types of vegetables, holds a unique place.
Can You Plant Garlic Near Tomatoes? Companion planting works by increasing plant diversity. Simply put, companion planting is alternating two or more types of veggies in a single row. This practice seeks to confound insects that tend to consume certain crops, leading them to move onto greener pastures, so to speak. This practice is also referred to as intercropping — that is combining plants that are desired by insects among those that are undesirable. The American Indians commonly intercropped three specific crops — corn, pole beans, and squash — called the Three Sisters method. This mutually advantageous planting system allows the beans to make use of the corn stalks to climb up, provides the corn nitrogen through the beans and the squash provides living mulch. There are many common combinations for companion planting. Some of these involve other vegetables or often flowers and herbs that repel insect marauders or attract pollinators. The answer to the above question is of course, you can plant garlic near tomatoes, but is there a benefit to such a companion planting? Strong smelling and tasting plants like onions and garlic are known to repel specific insect species.
Garlic and Tomato Companion Planting So what benefit is there to planting garlic with tomatoes? Garlic is said to repel aphids when companion planted with roses. When garlic is grown around fruit trees, it deters borers, and specifically protects peach trees from leaf curl and apples from apple scab. Garlic in the garden is also said to deter: Codling moths Japanese beetles Root maggots Snails Carrot root fly Growing tomato plants next to garlic repels spider mites known to ravage the tomato crop. It seems that while most of us love the pungent flavor and aroma of garlic, the insect world finds it less irresistible. Keep in mind, however, that not all plants in the garden coexist with garlic as readily as companion planting garlic with tomatoes. Veggies such as peas, beans, cabbage, and strawberries have abhorrence for garlic.
You cannot only plant tomato plants next to garlic as a natural insecticide, but you can make your own garlic spray too. To make a garlic insecticidal spray, simply crush four cloves of garlic and steep them in a liter of water for several days. Pour this brew into a spray bottle for use as an insecticide, provided you are one of the many of us who love the smell of garlic.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Not only does garlic keep the vampires at bay but it also makes everything taste better. Fresh garlic from potted garlic plants, keeps the nearby bulbs crisper and more pungent than any from the grocery. Growing garlic in containers takes some planning and the right type of container. Read on for some tips on how to grow garlic in a container and capture the head bite of fresh bulbs in your home recipes.
Container Gardening for Garlic Garlic is in the Allium family, which includes onions and shallots. The bulbs are the most powerful flavor on the plants, but the greens are also eaten. It is these heady bulbs which are the basis for planting. Each is planted 2 to 3 inches deep and must also have room for the roots to grow. This should be a consideration when choosing your container. Garlic planted in fall is ready for harvest by June. Growing produce in pots near the kitchen is a space-saving trick, but also allows the cook in the family easy access to the freshest ingredients possible. Containers for Growing Garlic Growing garlic in containers provides that just-picked flavor for the strongest bulbs ever. You need one that is at least 6 inches deep and has excellent drainage. The container also needs to be big enough to leave 6 inches of space between cloves. Other things to consider are evaporation rate and heat conductivity. Terra cotta pots evaporate more quickly and will need to be watered more often than glazed pots. If you don’t care about appearance, you can even use a 5-gallon bucket with holes punched into the bottom.
Soil Mixture for Potted Garlic Plants The proper soil medium is important for garlic planting in pots. It can’t retain too much moisture nor be too dry, and should have plenty of organic nutrients available for the bulbs. A good mix of peat, perlite or vermiculite, potting mix or compost and a little bit of builder’s sand will give you the drainage, moisture retention and nutrients necessary for growing garlic in containers. Container gardening for garlic can also include some early harvest cool vegetables, such as lettuce, which will be harvested before winter’s chill in most cases. Lettuces planted over un-sprouted cloves will minimize weeds and keep the soil broken up with their roots.
How to Grow Garlic in a Container Once you have your planting medium and container, fill the receptacle halfway full of the soil mix. Add a slow release granular balanced plant food, such as a 10-10-10, and mix into the soil. Insert the bulbs with the pointed side up and then back fill with more soil, pressing around each clove. If moisture is minimal, water the soil until it is evenly damp. Plant a short-term crop on top or simply cover the container with organic mulch. In spring the shoots will come up and eventually turn into scapes. Harvest these for stir fry or just to eat raw. By late June, your garlic is ready to dig up and cure. Container gardening for garlic is that easy and very rewarding. Try it as an annual part of your fall planting for delicious ready-to-grab flavor and zing in all your food.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Of late, there has been much in the news about the promising possibilities garlic may have in reducing and maintaining a healthy level of cholesterol. What is known for sure, garlic is a terrific source of Vitamins A and C, potassium, phosphorus, selenium and a few amino acids. Not only nutritious, it’s delicious! But have you ever wondered about the different types of garlic plants you can grow? Find out in this article.
Garlic Varieties to Grow Garlic’s history is long and convoluted. Originally from Central Asia, it has been cultivated in the Mediterranean for over 5,000 years. Gladiators ate garlic prior to battle and Egyptian slaves purportedly consumed it to give them strength to build the pyramids. There are basically two different types of garlic, although some folks lump elephant garlic as a third. Elephant garlic is actually a member of the onion family but is a variant of the leek. It has very large bulbs with very few cloves, three or four, and has a sweet, mellow onion/garlic flavor and a similar mien, hence the confusion. Garlic is one of 700 species in the Allium or onion family. The two different types of garlic are softneck (Allium sativum) and hardneck (Allium ophioscorodon), sometimes referred to as stiffneck.
Softneck Garlic Of the softnecked variety, there are two common garlic types: artichoke and silverskin. Both of these common garlic types are sold in the supermarket and you have more than likely used them. Artichokes are named for their resemblance to artichoke vegetables, with multiple overlapping layers containing up to 20 cloves. They are white to off-white with a thick, hard-to-peel outer layer. The beauty of this is their long shelf life — up to eight months. Some artichoke garlic varieties include: ‘Applegate’ ‘California Early’ ‘California Late’ ‘Polish Red’ ‘Red Toch’ ‘Early Red Italian’ ‘Galiano’ ‘Chamiskuri’ ‘Applegate’ ‘California Early’ ‘California Late’ ‘Polish Red’ ‘Red Toch”Italian Purple’ ‘Lorz Italian’ ‘Inchelium Red’ ‘Italian Late’ Silverskins are high yielding, adaptable to many climates and are the type of garlic used in garlic braids. Garlic plant varieties for silverskins include: ‘Inchelium’ ‘Polish White’ ‘Chet’s Italian Red’ ‘Kettle River Giant.’ Hardneck Garlic The most common type of hardneck garlic is ‘Rocambole,’ which has large cloves that are easy to peel and have a more intense flavor than softnecks. The easy-to-peel, loose skin lessens the shelf life to only around four to five months. Unlike softneck garlic, hardnecks send out a flowering stem, or scape, that turns woody.
Hardneck garlic varieties to grow include: ‘Chesnok Red’ ‘German White’ ‘Polish Hardneck’ ‘Persian Star’ ‘Purple Sriped’ ‘Porcelain’ Garlic names tend to be all over the map. This is because much of the seed stock has been developed by private individuals who can name the strain anything they desire. Therefore, some garlic plant varieties may be very much the same despite different names, and some with the same name may be very different from each other indeed. “True” garlic plant varieties do not exist, hence, they are referred to as strains. You very well may want to experiment with different types until you find the ones you prefer and that do well in your climate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic is a long season crop, 180-210 days to maturation, depending upon the variety. So as you may imagine, the proper fertilization of garlic is of paramount importance. The question is not only how to fertilize garlic, but when is the best time for feeding garlic plants?
Garlic Plant Fertilizer Garlic is a heavy feeder, basically because it takes so long to come to fruition. Because of this, it’s best to think about feeding garlic plants right from the start. In most climates, garlic bulbs should be planted in late fall or early winter — six weeks before the soil freezes. In milder areas, you may plant garlic in January or even February for late summer or early fall. Prior to either of these planting times, you should amend the soil with plenty of compost, which will become the basis for fertilizing your garlic as well as aid in water retention and drainage. You can also use manure or 1-2 pounds of all purpose fertilizer (10-10-10), or 2 pounds of blood meal per 100 square feet of garden space. Once the garlic has been sown, it is time to consider a schedule for further fertilization of garlic.
How to Fertilize Garlic Fertilization of garlic plants should occur in the spring, if you planted in the fall. Fertilizing your garlic can occur either by side dressing or broadcasting fertilizer over the entire bed. The best garlic plant fertilizer will be high in nitrogen, those containing blood meal or a synthetic source of nitrogen. To side dress, work the fertilizer in an inch down or so and about 3-4 inches from the plant. Fertilize every three to four weeks. Fertilize your garlic again just before the bulbs swell, around mid-May. By all accounts, however, do not fertilize with high nitrogen foods after May, as this may stunt the bulb size.
Keep the area around your garlic weed free since it doesn’t compete well with weeds. Water the garlic deeply every eight to 10 days if spring is dry but taper off in June. Start checking for mature cloves at the end of June. It’s best to dig one out and cut it in half to check for maturity since the green tops of garlic don’t die back like other Alliums when they are ready. You’re looking for plump cloves covered with a thick, dry papery skin. Cure bulbs in a shaded, warm, dry and airy place for a week. Garlic can be stored for months in a cool, dry, dark area. Cold temperatures promote sprouting, so do not store in the refrigerator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic propagation is often associated with the planting of garlic cloves, also referred to as vegetative reproduction or cloning. Another method for commercial propagation is on the rise too — growing garlic from bulbils. The question is can you, the home gardener, grow garlic from bulbils?
Can You Grow Garlic Bulbils? First off, you may be wondering what a “bulbil” is. Bulbils are tiny, undivided bulbs produced in the scape of hardneck garlic. The scape looks like a garlic flower; however, the reproductive parts are for show only, there is no cross pollination. Essentially, the bulbils are clones of the mother plant that can be planted to produce a replica of this parent. There may be less than 10 garlic plant bulbils or 150, depending upon the variety. Bulbil size ranges as well, from that of a grain of rice to the size of a chickpea. So the answer is yes, you can easily grow garlic from bulbils. There is an advantage to planting garlic bulbils over cloves. Propagating from garlic plant bulbils can revitalize garlic strains, thwart the transmission of soil-borne diseases and is economical as well. Now I’m betting you want to know how to grow garlic from bulbils, but first you need to harvest them.
Harvesting Garlic Plant Bulbils Harvest the bulbils when mature or when the cluster has expanded and split open the sheath surrounding it. You may cut this from the plant, or hang and dry the entire plant. Drying takes a significant amount of time, so be sure to hang the scape or plant in a dry area lest they mildew. When the bulbils are easily removed by lightly rubbing, you are ready to separate them from the clusters, remove the chaff and dry further in a shallow pan in an aerated area with no direct sun. They can then be stored at room temp or cooler for six to seven months in an unsealed container. Do not refrigerate.
How to Grow Garlic from Bulbils Garlic likes rich, well-drained soil amended with a good dose of compost and a soil pH of 6 to 8. Rocky or heavy clay soil will produce misshapen bulbs. Sow bulbils in a raised bed ½ to 1 inch deep, depending upon their size, and about 6 inches apart. The depth difference when planting garlic bulbils accounts for their size; tiny bulbils should be sown at a shallower depth. Space the rows 6 inches apart. Cover the bulbils with dirt and water in well. Keep the area weed free. The tiny bulbils take about three years to produce a good sized cloven bulb while the larger bulbils will produce small cloven bulbs in the first year. In the second year, harvest the bulbils and cure like garlic and then replant the “round” that fall. By the third year, the growing garlic from bulbils should be of that of a normal sized bulb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Growing your own food is an incredibly rewarding experience, but it can also be frustrating since plant diseases and pests seem to be everywhere. This fall, why not try planting a few garlic cloves for next spring? If you’re trying your hand at growing garlic, keep an eye out for these common garlic problems.
Garlic Problems in the Garden Garlic pests and disease can ruin your harvest, sometimes without your even knowing it until it’s too late. Others wait to emerge until later, causing problems when drying garlic. Either way, it’s a huge headache. The most common problems of garlic are caused by these common types of pathogens: Fungal By far, fungal problems are the most common garlic plant problems. You may get an early hint that something’s wrong, like early yellowing of foliage or white or gray, fluffy growth low on the stem. Unfortunately, there’s very little that can be done about fungal diseases in garlic. The best strategy is to practice a four year crop rotation. If you can’t do this, some fungal pathogens, like Botrytis, can be discouraged by wide spacing between plants. Drying garlic quickly will often prevent storage spoilage. When you must use the same garden space, minimize sources of fungal spores like dead leaves and spent plants by immediately removing and burning or bagging.
Nematodes These tiny roundworms live in the soil and feed on roots and bulbs – they can destroy an entire crop in no time. If your plants are lacking in vigor or the leaves look bloated, nematodes may be the cause. Fungus and bacteria can further complicate diagnosis by moving into the nematodes’ feeding sites. Nematode control in the home garden isn’t easy, which is why most gardeners simply move to another garden spot for several years to starve the pests out. You’ll have to take care to ensure that no members of the onion or nightshade family pop up unexpectedly to give the nematodes something new to feed upon during that time. Mites Bulb mites sometimes bother garlic and onions, feeding on stem plates and roots. Infected plants will be much smaller than non-infected plants and may easily pull out of the soil because of their damaged root system. You may be able to see tiny cream colored mites with purple-brown legs clustered under garlic scales or at the base of roots.
Like with nematodes, the feeding of these mites allows other pathogens to invade the garlic bulb. You’ll also need to practice crop rotation to destroy these mites. They’re more flexible in their feeding than nematodes, so leaving your garden fallow or planting it out with a green, non-bulbing manure is recommended.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic is a plant that requires some patience. It takes around 240 days to mature and it’s worth every second. In our household there really is no such thing as too much garlic! During the course of those 240 days, any number of pests, diseases and weather conditions can affect the garlic crop. One such crisis occurs when garlic is falling over. So, how to fix drooping garlic? Read on to learn more.
Help, My Garlic Fell Over! First things first. I’m stating the obvious for most garlic growers, but here goes. When garlic is reaching maturation, the leaves begin to sag and brown. You end up with garlic plants drooping. If you do a quick math calculation to figure out how many months it has been since you planted the garlic, you may just realize that it’s nearing harvest time. If you’re still in doubt and your memory is like mine (that is like a sieve), simply pull up one of droopy plants. If the bulb is large and ready, there’s no need to wait for full dieback, but leave the foliage on to dry naturally. This extends the garlic’s storage time. If the bulb is ready, then there’s no further need for troubleshooting floppy garlic. If, however, the garlic is falling over and readiness isn’t a factor, it’s time to look further for another possible cause.
Troubleshooting Floppy Garlic How to fix drooping garlic depends on what other problems may be affecting the plants. Moisture issues Another reason for a drooping garlic plant is the most common reason for drooping in any plant — lack of water. Garlic requires consistently moist soil. Water the plants with 2 inches of water at least two times a week. Conversely, too much water can also affect the garlic, resulting in garlic that is falling over. Sometimes during heavy rainstorms, your garlic may get beaten down by the force of the storm. Don’t worry; it’s likely that the garlic will bounce back as it dries.
Nutrient problems Yet another reason for drooping garlic plants may be that they are hungry. Lack of nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and magnesium will affect the growth of the plants. You can bring them around by doing a foliar feed or root zone feeding. Insect pests A more dire possibility may be that the garlic has become the host for onion root maggot or wireworms. Although garlic is a hardy veggie, it’s also prone to any number of insect infestations and fungal diseases, not to mention the above soil deficiencies. Poor location Perhaps you have planted your garlic in the wrong spot. Garlic needs at least six hours of sun in quick draining soil, rich with nutrients. Maybe you should try replanting the garlic. Prepare a new site for it if you think the wilt is caused by poor soil or if the plants are in too shady of an area.Amend the soil in a sunny area with equal parts of organic compost and well-draining soil. Dig 3 inches of this into the top 3 inches of soil in the new site. Dig the garlic up and transfer them in the morning of a cool day. Feed the garlic with a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer. Dig this into the top inch of soil around each plant and water the plants immediately thereafter. Spread 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the plants to maintain warmth and moisture. Hopefully, all this will perk up the garlic and you will no longer need to say, “Help, my garlic fell over!”
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic is a component to most international cuisines. The herb’s popularity is a testament to its powers and intoxicating flavor. Add a little garlic to almost any dish and it perks up perceptibly. Garlic plant propagation is a noteworthy pursuit for those of us who need our garlic fix. Fresh bulbs, scapes and leaves add punch or delicate notes, depending upon your desires. Learn how to propagate garlic for a garden fresh supply of this Allium plant year around.
How to Propagate Garlic You know you want it. Garlic with its pungent, zesty flavor and intense aromatic properties is actually quite easy to grow. Choice of variety that is suitable for your growing zone and soil is the first concern when propagating garlic bulbs. Softneck varieties grow best in warm climates, while the hardneck types are more suited to cooler climes. For the indecisive gardener, the Asian species can perform well in either climate. Planting Garlic Cloves Fall is the best time to plant most garlic. In climates with longer growing seasons, you can plant in late winter to early spring as soon as all danger of frost has passed. Garlic plant propagation requires deeply cultivated beds with plenty of compost added in to enrich the soil and enhance drainage. Dig trenches 1 inch deep and 2 inches wide. Keep trenches 6 inches apart and plant individual cloves at the same spacing. A single garlic bulb can yield up to eight plants. Separate the cloves, ensuring the papery covering is intact. Place each clove with the pointed top upright and cover the trenches with amended soil. Place several inches of mulch such as straw over the top of the beds.
Propagating Garlic Bulbs from Seed Garlic seed is tiny and contained in the mature, dried flowers of the plants. Shake out the tiny black seeds and plant them immediately or save them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Growing the Allium from seed can be a frustrating process, as it takes much longer than plants established from cloves or bubils, and germination is capricious. Plant seeds indoors in fall to early winter after a storage period of four weeks in the refrigerator to encourage germination. Use a good seed starting mixture and plant seeds in flats with ¼ inch soil covering them. They need to be in an area of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.), covered to retain moisture and heat, and in a place with bright light after seedlings emerge. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to prepared beds in spring. Propagating garlic cloves will result in edible bulbs in a few months as opposed to seeded garlic, which produces bulbs the following year.
Planting Garlic Bulbils Another method of garlic plant propagation is through the use of bulbils. Bulbils are located in the scape of hardneck varieties or on the false neck of softneck species. They are small undivided bulbs that can function like seed. The advantages to using bulbils are their ability to prevent soil borne disease and their faster production. Plant garlic bulbils 1 inch deep in fall, much the same way you would plant cloves. Care and cultivation is the same as bulb-planted garlic. Be careful not to weed out the tiny seedlings in spring, which will emerge looking much like common grass. Leave the plants in the ground until the tops turn brown and then harvest. The resulting bulbs will be smaller than those you get when propagating from cloves but equally delicious and you can get many more from bulbils.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dummer. ゛☀
Garlic packs a robust aroma and flavor that many of us can’t do without. The good news is that garlic is fairly easy to grow and for the most part, is pest resistant. In fact, garlic is often a part of co-planting or companion planting, wherein garlic is grown alongside other plants to their mutual benefit. That said, even garlic has its share of garlic plant pests. What are some common garlic pests and how can you control pests on garlic bulbs?
What are Common Garlic Pests? Garlic has both natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. That’s why many gardeners plant it near certain crops. Garlic contains the compound allicin, which is released when the cloves are crushed or bitten. Possibly, this is garlic’s defense mechanism, but whatever the case, it serves to deter some pests like aphids near lettuce. Apparently, they don’t love garlic as much as I do; they view it as more like the repellent it is to Dracula. Even so, the plant may get garlic bugs that worship the bulb. Many of these garlic plant pests also plague onions, which are closely related to garlic.
Mites – Bulb mites are one example of pests found on garlic bulbs and other alliums. Off white in color, shiny and globular, they are found huddled together under the plants’ roots. Bulb mites reduce harvest and generally stunt plant growth. They can live from one growing season to the next, so it is recommended that you rotate plantings by skipping the allium varieties in successive years. Leaf miners – Leaf miners (Liriomyza huidobrensis) are another pest found on garlic bulbs, first as eggs lain within the leaf tissue. The hatchlings are tiny, off-white larvae that then tunnel inside the leaves, leaving visible damage. Although the resulting leaf damage is primarily cosmetic, the presence of leaf miners may damage other leafy crops in the garden. Wheat curl mites – Severe infestations of wheat curl mite can cause twisted, stunted leaf growth but its major impact is upon the bulb. Wheat curl mites (Eriphyes tulipae) can cause cloves to dry out. The mites act as a vector for Yellow Streak virus as well. The mites are so tiny; they are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Treating the mites is possible by dipping the seed garlic in hot water prior to planting. Nematodes – A particularly insidious garlic bug is the nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which lives and reproduces inside garlic plants. These microscopic worm-like pests eat all parts of the stems, leaves and bulbs. It can live without water and survive for many years in the soil. Nematode nibbling can result in deformation, discoloration and tissue collapse of the bulb. The worst thing about garlic nematodes is that their population continues to expand exponentially for years with no visible signs of damage. What this means is that for years, healthy garlic plants will not be significantly affected but then all at once the astronomical nematode population will decimate the garlic crop. Thrips – Lastly, thrips are the garlic plant’s most common pest. They suck the sap from the plants, gradually slowing growth and bulb production. If the infestation is severe, entire commercial garlic fields can wilt and die. In additional to those above, garlic plants can, on occasion, be feasted on by snails.
Control of Garlic Insect Pests Some of the above pests can be dealt with by applying commercially available pesticides. If you would rather use a more organic method, the first order of business is to practice crop rotation, not just for garlic, but for any alliums. Also, seek out guaranteed clean seed. Practice strict sanitation and only use disease-free planting material. Sticky traps can be laid to entrap thrip migrations. Garlic’s powerful aroma may also be a key player in garlic insect pest control. Garlic extract is used to treat some plants and for repelling pests such as slugs. Strangely, an application of garlic extract may be the key to thwarting nefarious insect armies and if your nose is up for it, certainly worth a try.
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