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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ranunculus is a large genus of about 600 species of plants in the Ranunculaceae. Members of the genus include the Buttercups, Spearworts, and Water Crowfoots.
They produce cheery multi-petaled flowers. The almost unpronounceable name covers a large group of perennials from Asia and Europe. The plants aren’t very hardy and may be annual in colder zones. They are easily damaged by temperatures below 28°F (-2°C), and thrive best in USDA zones 8 to 10.
A colorful field of flowers livens up the landscape and is easy to achieve with Ranunculus plants. Ranunculus bulbs come in several sizes and are best planted 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Using Ranunculus for the garden will reward the grower with an abundance of color and texture from early spring into the first month of summer. Ranunculus for the garden come in an array of colors from white, red and gold to orange, yellow and pink. The flowers boast layers of petals and will develop up to 12 inches (30 cm) in height. You can choose standard sized Ranunculus plants or dwarf specimens, which only get 8 inches (20 cm) high. Some varieties will produce flowers that span 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) in width. You may start Ranunculus bulbs directly outdoors or purchase started transplants at a nursery. The tubers must be soaked prior to planting for best results. Use the plants in borders, containers and wildflower fields. The thick rosettes will last for a week or more when used as cut flowers. Plant bulbs outside in fall in warmer zones and start them indoors in pots in cooler climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care Growing Ranunculus flowers starts with planted roots or tubers. Often called Ranunculus bulbs, tubers are different but have similar structures and purposes to the more common bulb. Plant the bulbs or tubers in fall for a glorious spring display. Growing Ranunculus flowers requires well-drained soil and full sun for best results. Soak the tubers and then plant then with the roots or fingers pointed downward at a depth of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm), depending on the size of the bulbs.
It is an easy flower to grow. Care of Ranunculus to ensure yearly displays may require that you pull out the tubers at the end of the season. Allow the foliage to almost completely die back and then dig out the tubers. Lay them in a cool, dry place to evaporate all the moisture from the bulbs. Store the tubers in a dark location until spring and then start them indoors in pots. Replant outside when all danger of frost is passed and the first true leaves are evident.
Plants require temperatures of no more than 60 F. (16 C.) during the day and 45 to 50 °F (7 to 10 °C) at night to break dormancy and begin sprouting. Plants may survive as perennials in Zone 7 if you mulch lightly around the bases. Follow these suggestions when growing Ranunculus flowers for garden displays or cut flowers and you will reap the rewards year after year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you want your neighbors to think you’re an award-winning gardener, try planting dahlias in your garden this year. Just when everything else starts to show the strain of midsummer, Dahlias begin a showstopping performance that lasts through fall. Dahlias need just a little bit of special care in some climates, but the rewards far outweigh the work.
About Dahlias Buying: Dahlias are sold as tubers, but they may also be available planted in pots at garden centers in the spring. For the most interesting selection, visit your nearest Dahlia society. Cold Hardiness: Dahlias are considered true perennials only in zones 6-7 and warmer. In cooler climates, they can be treated like annuals, or you can dig up and store the tubers over the winter. Cold hardiness for Dahlias depends on the variety, so check the label when buying. Size: Dahlias range from foot tall dwarf varieties to towering 8 feet (2.4 m) giants. Quality: Look for plump, firm tubers with no spoiled spots and at least one eye. Unlike potatoes, Dahlia tubers have eyes only on the top, where the stem meets the root.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun 6-8 hours a day is ideal, although if you live in a hot climate you may want to give them a little cooling afternoon shade. Soil: Loose, fertile, well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Dahlias put out tiny feeder roots that require light soil that holds moisture without being soggy. Clay soil should be amended with compost, sand, and/or humus. Water: Dahlias need regular water but will rot in heavy wet soil. Fertilizer: Dahlias need lots of nutrients, especially when blooming. Rich soil and balanced organic fertilizer will help. Cautions: Dahlias are very susceptible to rot and freeze, so keep this in mind when choosing your planting site.
How to Plant When to Plant: Plant Dahlias in spring, after all danger of frost has passed. If the weather has been soggy, wait until the soil dries out a little. Soil Preparation: Till the soil about a foot deep. Work in plenty of well-rotted compost, sand, or humus. Avoid manure or fresh compost – it’s too high in nitrogen. If you’re buying soil, make sure it hasn’t been treated with weed preventers since Dahlias are very susceptible to herbicides. Planting: Plant Dahlia tubers about 2 feet (60 cm) apart and 6 inches (15 cm) deep, with the eyes facing up. Watering: Ideally, you shouldn’t water new Dahlias, but let the spring rains work their magic. If it’s already hot and dry, you can give them a light watering.
Support: Taller varieties need stakes for support. Install a bamboo stake or tomato cage when planting, so that you don’t cause damage later. Identify: Tag plants with the name of the variety to prevent confusion if you dig them up to keep over the winter. Mulch: Add a couple of inches of mulch to hold in moisture. Growing Tips Fertilizing: Feed Dahlias about once a month with an organic fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium, such as a 1-2-2 ratio. With enough compost, your Dahlias will do fine without fertilizer. Watering: Make sure your Dahlias get an inch of water per week. Keep track of rainfall so that the water is consistent. Deadheading: Clip off spent blossoms to encourage more blooming. Disbudding: While optional, some gardeners remove many of the flower buds to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger and showier blooms with long stems. The flower buds come in clusters of three. If desired, remove the two side buds and allow the middle one to grow, and keep pinching off any more side buds that form along the end of the stem.
Pinching: For a more natural look, pinch back Dahlia plants when small to encourage branching. Dividing: Dahlias can be divided in fall or spring. Dig up the tubers and use a sharp knife to cut into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye. Allow tubers to dry overnight before replanting. Overwintering Outdoors: If Dahlias are hardy in your zone, simply cut them back after the first heavy frost and apply an extra layer of mulch to protect them from the cold. Remove the extra mulch in spring.
Overwintering Indoors: In colder climates, dig up and store the tubers in a basement or garage, then divide and replant them in the spring. Weeding: Hand pull weeds around Dahlias, or smother with mulch. Don’t use any sprays. Cut Flowers: Dahlias make stunning bouquets! Cut the blooms in early morning for best results.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves. Growing Conditions and General Care Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
The odds are that the lush, potted Geraniums brightening your patio are not True Geraniums (Geranium sp.); the nursery plants sold as Geraniums are actually of the genus Pelargonium. While True Geraniums are frost-hardy perennials generally planted in flower beds, Pelargoniums are often container plants and, although also perennials, require more care in cold temperatures. Easy-going, versatile plants, they add a splash of vibrant color throughout the summer season in pots, hanging baskets and window boxes in Mediterranean climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care Work organic compost into high-quality container potting soil that contains ingredients such as peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. Use this compost/soil mixture to fill pots for your Pelargoniums. Good drainage is essential to Pelargoniums so choose containers with adequate drainage holes. If your Pelargoniums are already in pots, spread organic compost lightly on the soil surface and work in, taking care not to dig up the plant’s roots.
Choose locations getting direct sun for most Pelargoniums. They need at least six hours of sun daily. Martha Washington and Regal types prefer a site that is shady in the afternoon. All Pelargoniums need afternoon shade if your area regularly sees summer temperatures exceeding 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius). Feed your Pelargoniums every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Buy fertilizer that dissolves in water for easier application. Every third watering, add Epsom salts — magnesium sulfate — to the plant water — 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon — to provide magnesium. Or, add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil mix when you plant the geraniums in the pot — it feeds them all season.
Water your potted Pelargoniums until the excess runs out the drainage holes, then allow the potting soil to dry before watering again. In hot summer temperatures, poke a finger 2 inches (5 cm) into the soil in the container every day and get out the watering can if the soil is dry. Water plants in the morning instead of evening to reduce disease. Snip off the faded flowers of potted Pelargoniums. Deadheading your plants helps them produce new flowers more rapidly. At the same time, trim stems by one-third to encourage branching. Pinch off dead and discolored leaves.
Cut back your Pelargoniums by about two-thirds if and when the weather drops below 45°F (7°C). Move the pots indoors to a sunny, south-facing window that gets at least four hours a day of direct sun. Stop fertilizing and limit water to once a week, keeping the plants on the dry side, while they are in the house. Begin to add fertilizer to the plant water again when you see new growth in late winter or early spring. As spring arrives, move your potted Pelargoniums outside gradually, adding a little more time each day to allow them to acclimate to cooler air.
Grower’s Tips True Pelargoniums are cold-hardy and drought tolerant. Different cultivars do well in sun or shade. Most need afternoon shade in hot climates. Put Pelargonium containers in a cemented-over backyard area, if you have one. The flowers mask the cement and flourish from the extra warmth of reflected sun. Make your backyard garden different each year by rearranging your container plants in new and exotic ways. Try new plant combinations and change to larger containers. Experiment with Ivy Geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum). This fast-growing, trailing geranium grows year-round in Mediterranean climates.
Try Scented Geraniums for their lovely smells, including rose, lemon and mint. Pick and dry their fragrant leaves as a welcome addition to potpourri.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
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Mimosa is a genus which has more than 400 species of shrubs and herbs. Out of these, two species stand out because of their distinct characteristics. The Mimosa pudica, native to South America and southern Central America, displays a magical show of folding its leaves in when touched or subjected to sunlight. The Mimosa tenuiflora has gained immense popularity because of the dimethyltryptamine drug, a psychedelic drug used in shamanic brews, found in its root bark.
Mimosa is an extremely fast-growing deciduous tree. On an average, it grows to a height of 20 to 40 feet (6 to 12 m). Its bark is dark brown in color and has a smooth texture. The soft, green leaves of Mimosa look very similar to that of the fern plant. They are 5 – 8 inches (12.5 to 20 cm) in length and 3 – 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in width. These leaves grow in a cluster and appear as a feather on the lime-green colored stems. The foliage has a special, sensitive characteristic, in which the leaflets tend to fold themselves in at night. It is because of this peculiarity, that the tree’s Persian name means “Night Sleeper”, and it is known as the “Sleeping Tree” in Japan.
The flowers of the Mimosa are aromatic. Interestingly, it is not the petals, but the long thread-like stamens of these flowers that make them look so showy and colorful. They bloom during summer, between April and July, and grow in clusters at the end of the branches. As it belongs to the legume family, its fruits develop from flat pods. These pods are straw-colored, oval-shaped, and 6 inches (15 cm) long. Though these pods ripen by August or September, they stay on the plant until winter, after which they either drop off or are blown away by the wind. Each pod contains about 5 – 10 seeds which are about half an inch in size, oval-shaped, and brown in color.
Growing Conditions Mimosa is capable of growing in some really hardy zones and can survive in temperatures as low as -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 degrees Celsius). Although it grows exceptionally well in bright and full sunlight, it can grow in partially shaded areas as well. The plant can grow on a large variety of soil types like clay, loam, and sandy soil. The soil should ideally be acidic but a mild alkaline soil would suffice too. The plant is known to survive in droughts and hence requires little watering.
General Care The ideal time for planting a Mimosa is during the spring on a well drained soil. As these flowering plants prefer soil which is acidic in nature, it is advised that you add peat moss and composted leaves at regular intervals to maintain its acidic properties. Water the plant and soil enough, but not so much as to saturate it. Keep the area under the tree clean, by sweeping away the fallen flowers and seed pods. Pruning of the branches should ideally be done during fall. This tree often tends to get infested by pests like webworm caterpillars. If affected, the branches should be removed as soon as possible to prevent any collateral damage to the plant. If not taken care of, the need to spray insecticides might arise.
Now that you know about the conditions favorable for growing a Mimosa and the most preferable time to grow it, you can plant it in your garden, patio, or deck. The Mimosa can reproduce speedily and cover vast areas in a short period of time. Plant it for decorative purposes to enhance the beauty of your garden.
Propagation Reproduction occurs both, vegetatively as well as by pollination. The seeds are dispersed mainly in the areas close to the parent plant, but may be dispersed to other areas by water or wildlife as well. In vegetative reproduction, trees are cut back for the purpose of regrowth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Nymphaea is a genus of hardy and tender aquatic plants in the family Nymphaeaceae. Many species are cultivated as ornamental plants, and many cultivars have been bred. Plants of the genus are known commonly as Water Lilies.
There are about 50 species of Water Lily plants, inhabiting every part of the world. Water Lilies are tuberous growing plants that can be planted in pots and submerged in your pond or even in a tub on your patio, where they will send up round, floating leaves and beautiful, sometimes fragrant, star shaped flowers to the surface.
Tropical Water Lilies require more specialized care, which varies considerably, but they all require 70°F (21°C) water temperatures. The upside of growing tropical varieties is that they typically fragrant, have larger flowers, and come in some really hot, exotic colors. Several species of tropical Water Lily are night blooming as well! Hardy Water Lilies are very durable and easy to grow water plants for the beginner. They will bloom continuously from spring until fall if dead flower stems are removed at the soil level regularly. Each flower will open at dawn and close at dusk, for 3-4 days before and sinking from sight and fruiting. Most commonly available Water Lily plants are hybrids bred for several North American species. Some species of Water Lilies can become a weed in some areas, so beware!
Growing Conditions Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae.
Planting When planting, use a suitable container that is wide (12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) and shallow (8 to 10 inches / 20 to 25 cm). Before planting, press 3-4 aquatic fertilizer pellets down into the soil. The rhizome grows out horizontally, like that of an Iris, so rather than centering them in the pot, they should be set near the edge of the pot, pointed to the center, with the growing tip pointing slightly upward. Cover the soil with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) layer of small rocks or pea gravel to keep the soil in place. Lower the pot into the pond at an angle to allow it to fill with water gradually. The planter can be set at a 6 inches (15 cm) depth initially to give new growth a jump start. As soon as the first foliage hits the surface, it should be moved to a depth appropriate for the species or variety. Normally, smaller types should be set so that the rim of the pot is 18 inches (45 cm) below the water surface, and large varieties should be set at a minimum of 36 inches (90 cm). In all cases, make sure the roots are below the freeze line of the water, unless you plan on storing the rhizomes over winter. Water lilies should be fed at the beginning of the summer and again at mid season using aquatic plant fertilizer tablets which are pressed into the soil.
All tropical Water Lily species will need to over-winter in a heated area! If your pond or tub freezes solid in winter, you will have to lift the pot and store it indoors for the winter. Remove all dead and dying foliage. Lift the planter from the pond and store the entire pot in a plastic bag, in a cool area. Optionally, you can remove and clean the rhizomes and store them in moist peat moss at 40 to 50 °F (4 to 10 °C).
Propagation Hardy Water Lilies should be divided every 2-3 years, depending on the planter size. Remove the soil from the planter with a water hose to expose the rhizomes. Divide the tuber-like rhizomes and replant them in the spring or summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pomegranate shrubs are one of the easiest fruits to keep since they are usually not affected by many pests or diseases. The fruits are full of antioxidants and thought to have many health benefits. The scientific name assigned to this shrub is Punica granatum. It used to have its own family, Punicaceae, but studies have shown that it is part of the Lythraceae family. The name used for this fruit shrub is Pomegranate. It is sometimes misspelled as Pomegranite.
The Pomegranate can range from a dwarf shrub of 3 feet (90 cm) to a small tree of 20 to 30 feet (6 to 9 m). The average size of a standard Pomegranate shrub is 12 to 16 feet (3.6 to 4.8 m) tall with a round shape. If you want a short version, choose the ‘Nana’ variety. The leaves are glossy and have a narrow, lance shape. In most places they are deciduous, but in the warmer climates may be evergreen. The flowers are tube shaped and over 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. They are a brilliant scarlet red, and are very attractive to hummingbirds. The flowers are self-pollinating, though fertility is improved through cross pollination. The Pomegranate fruit is approximately 2.5 to 5 inches (6 to 13 cm) wide. It has a red, leathery rind. Each seed is encased in pulp and sectioned off by walls.
Harvest when the color has developed and makes a metallic sound when tapped. Use a pair of pruning shears to cut the stem above the fruit instead of pulling it off. They can be stored for a long time if kept around 32 to 40 ºF (0 to 4.5 ºC).
Growing Conditions Light: Pomegranate shrubs may be grown in part shade as necessary, but ideally should be placed somewhere with as much sun and warmth as possible. Water: The Pomegranate is drought tolerant, though irrigation is needed for proper fruit production, per the California Rare Fruit Growers. Water every 2 to 4 weeks during the dry season when you are establishing new shrubs. Hardiness Zones: The optimal areas for this fruit are USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. It is thought to come from Iran initially. Soil: The Pomegranate does best in well-drained soil, though it is able to thrive in a wide variety of soils from acid loam to alkaline soil. Fertilizer: Fertilize in November and March for the first two years. Otherwise, not much fertilizer is usually needed in subsequent years.
Design Tips The Pomegranate shrub is somewhat drought tolerant and also salt tolerant. It is perfect for the sunniest and warmest locations in the yard that might scorch other plants. Pomegranate flowers can be used along with other annuals, perennials, shrubs and trees that attract hummingbirds. The pomegranate is a popular choice for bonsai. The bark is a red-brown color, and branches may have spines.
Propagation Propagation is through cuttings taken in winter and air layering. Seeds may be used, but varieties may not stay true. Pruning Pomegranates are prone to producing suckers, so remove them as they appear. Pruning procedures: Cut the pomegranate back once it is 2 feet (60 cm) high. Allow 4 to 5 shoots to develop about 1 feet (30 cm) above ground. For the first three years keep shortening the branches to encourage shoot development. Fruit only develops where there is new growth. After 3 years, just prune away dead, damaged or diseased branches.
Pests and Diseases Pomegranate shrubs are one of the easier fruits to work with since they are not usually affected by many pests or diseases. Possible pests may include pomegranate butterfly, thrips, scale, mealy bugs and white flies. Deer will sometimes eat the leaves, and occasionally gophers will chew on the roots. Diseases include leaf spot, fruit spot, twig dieback, dry rot and soft rot. Additional Facts Some believe that the fruit in the Garden of Eden was really a pomegranate.
In Greek mythology, Persephone was kidnapped and taken to the Underworld to be Hades’ (God of Underworld) bride. She was rescued and allowed to leave on condition that she had not eaten anything down there. However, she had eaten part of a pomegranate while she was down there, so she spent eternity living among the mortal for half of the year and the Underworld for the other half.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Blue Puya, or Turquoise Puya, is a bromeliad and closely related to the pineapple. The plant is a rare specimen that hails from Chile in the Andes Mountains. It is part of several cactus and succulent plant collections but is not found wild in North America. Seeds are available to order or you may be able to get a hold of a division if you are lucky. These are the two main ways of propagating Puya plants and enjoying for yourself the majestic flower spires and classic rosettes of this succulent.
Read on to learn how to grow Blue Puya and astound your friends and make fellow gardeners envious with the daring and bold form. Puya berteroniana is an arid climate terrestrial bromeliad. The plant is sold under the name Aqua Sapphire Tower which is an appropriate description for the infrequent colossal flower clusters it produces when mature. The Blue Puya plant is found in the upper elevations of arid Chile. It is a hardy plant that grows 3 to 4 feet (0.9 to 1.2 m) in height from a basal rosette form of silvery gray leaves with toothed edges. The flower stalks may be up to 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in height and are decorated with magnificent turquoise flowers with deeply orange anthers. The effect is quite impressive and unique in the plant world but it may take 6 to 8 years for flowers to appear. Over time the plant will form offsets or pups. These are easily divided up as an easy way of propagating Puya plants.
Growing Conditions and General Care You can get Puya seed and start the plants yourself in a greenhouse. Puya are slow to germinate and require temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius). Use a well-drained potting soil in a seed flat. Keep the seeds moderately moist until they sprout. Once you see seedlings, move the flat to a brightly lit area with protection from the harsh light of midday. Transplant the seedlings when they have formed a rosette. Plants can tolerate a crowded pot. In USDA zones 8 to 11, you can transplant rosettes to the garden but in other zones they will have to be moved indoors in winter. Up until the cold temperatures appear, Blue Puya makes a great patio specimen.
Water Puya plants in the ground once per week in summer. Potted plants should be watered when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out. Water the plant only once per month in winter when the plant is dormant. Fertilize with a diluted succulent food or indoor plant food in spring. Remove spent foliage from the rosettes for best appearance. The pups can be cut away with a sharp, sterile knife and potted up for a new supply of the plants. Blue Puya care is easy as long as you have well-drained soil, a fairly sunny location and warm temperatures. The plants are even drought tolerant for short periods once established.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
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Some of the most popular orchid plants among home growers are Dendrobium orchids These showy flowers are relatively easy to grow, with a central long stem and an attractive spray of flowers that can last up to four weeks.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups. Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow. First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
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2017年09月28日
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Violas are an early blooming plant. These perennials are often grown as an annual. Most people believe they are annuals. They are early bloomers in late spring to early summer. Then, shrivel in the mid summer heat.
They are native to the southern hemisphere. Easy to grow, you will often find Violas growing in the wild, in their native regions. Small plants produce a wealth of dainty, clear-faced, fragrant blooms in jewel-like shades; yellow, apricot, blue, scarlet, white and violet. Viola is generally more winter-hardy than the larger-flowered pansy. Viola are popular, easy, and fun to grow. Fill an area or entire bed with Viola for a striking spring effect! They also are great in windowsills and containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care Viola plants prefer cool to warm climates, and wilt a bit in mid-summer heat. In warmer areas, we recommend partial shade. They tolerate a variety of soils. Add a general purpose fertilizer when planting them, then once a month after that. Once your Viola plants are established, they should grow well, even if left unattended. Soil should be moist, but not wet. Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week. Keep them well weeded. Remove spent blooms to promote additional blooms, and extend the blooming period. This will also keep the appearance neat and beautiful.
Propagation Violas are grown from seeds. They like full to partial sun. Viola can be directly seeded into your flower garden or seeded indoors for transplanting later. For spring blooms, you need to start your Viola in pots and containers indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost. Sow Viola seeds early in the season and cover lightly with 0.8 inch (2 cm) soil. Water thoroughly once. They germinate slowly.
Transplant Viola seedlings into your garden after the last frost date for your area. Space them 6 inches (15 cm) apart. They will tolerate a little crowding. If you are creating a flower bed, you may want to create a pattern or color scheme prior to planting. Or, use mixed varieties. Pests and Disease Viola seldom have problems with pests and disease. If pests or disease problems occur, treat early with organic or chemical insect repellents and fungicide.
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