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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Etlingera elatior, aslo known as Torch Ginger, is a showy addition to the tropical landscape, as it is a large plant with a variety of unusual, colorful blooms. Torch Ginger plant information says the plant, an herbaceous perennial, grows in areas where temperatures fall no lower than 50°F (10°C) at night. This limits growth to USDA Hardiness Zone 10 and 11, and possibly zone 9.
Torch Ginger may reach up to 20 feet (6 m) in height. Plant it where it is somewhat protected from the wind, which can snap the shoots of this tropical plant. Due to the large height, growing in containers may not be feasible. The unusual Torch Ginger flowers may be red, pink or orange — blooming from colorful bracts. White blooms have been reported in some plant information, but these are rare. Buds are edible, flavorful and used in Southeast Asian cooking.
Growing Conditions and General Care Growing Torch Ginger is possible in a range of soil types. A major problem when growing Torch Ginger plants is potassium deficiency. Potassium is necessary for the correct uptake of water, which is necessary for the optimum growth of this large plant. Add potassium to the soil before growing Torch Gingers by working it into unplanted beds to about a foot (30 cm) deep. Organic means of adding potassium include the use of greensand, kelp or granite meal. Test the soil.
When growing these plants in established beds, fertilize with a food that is high in potassium. This is the third number on the fertilizer ratio displayed on the packaging. Once the potassium is right in the soil, watering, an important part of learning how to grow torch ginger successfully, will be more beneficial.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Spring is a good time to begin growing and digging, although planning can take place before the snow melts. Gardeners spend most of the summer watering, weeding, and watching young plants grow. Fall is a good time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, and some perennials.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden. 2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose. If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out. 4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners: Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers 7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot). An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning. 9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Aster is a large genus of 250 species of annuals, biennials, perennials, and subshrubs from many different kinds of habitats, mainly in North America. The flowers resemble small daisies, with yellow disk florets, and white, pink, blue, or purple ray florets. The leaves are generally alternate, simple, and lance-shaped. There is an Aster for most any type of garden, including borders, rock gardens, waterside plantings, dry areas, and wildflower gardens.
Care for your Asters with some basic rules of thumb, and be rewarded with spectacular blossoms in a variety of colors. Planting these wonderful stars (aster is Greek for star) will uplift and brighten your fall garden. Ranging from 8 inches to almost 8 feet (20 cm to almost 2.4 m), these flowers make good border plants, but be careful of mildew diseases that attack them.
Growing Conditions and General Care Divide mature plants in spring, just as the new shoots begin to grow. This should be done every few years to avoid crowding of plants. As with many other flowering plants, dead head (cut back spent flowers) to make room for newer blossoms. This will extend the health and flowering of your plants. Be sure to dead head early on in the blooming season. Blooming will be reduced if done too late. This will also restrain unwanted reseeding which will cause plant overcrowding. Remember, Asters are prone to mildew so be careful to plant them in areas with good circulation and good sun exposure. As with other flowering plants, do not allow water to saturate leaves. Be sure to water at the plant’s roots to prevent mildew and mold. Drip irrigation and utilization of a soaker hose work very well in watering these plants.
Propagating Asters can be grown indoors or may be sown into the garden directly (providing danger of frost is well past). Plant them in early spring, preparing gardens with a tiller to loosen soil. Sow the seeds approximately 1 foot (30 cm) deep into a mixture of compost and garden soil. Germination usually occurs after approximately 1 month. Plant in well-drained, moist soil in either partial shade or morning sun. Some varieties can be planted in full sun, but this varies, so be sure to check planting instructions. Compost, peat moss or mulch will retain moisture, control weeds and ensure plants have sufficient nutrients. Your hole for transplanting asters should be twice as wide and deep as the plant’s container. Plant the crown of the aster even with the ground level. Plant and thin plants to at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart to avoid overcrowding.
Strategies In addition to accenting rock gardens, grow your Asters in succession, so that have an ongoing blooming season. Planting Asters will also deter some insects in your garden. Plant them throughout your garden to limit pesticide use. Asters attract butterflies, which will enhance the beauty of your garden.
Unlike marigolds and similar plants, Aster seedlings are unlike the parent plant and may not be desirable to allow to reproduce. Remove the flower stems before they set seed to prevent this cycle from occurring. Water Asters as directed, but remember that they are considered a “drought tolerant” plant and do not like standing water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Spathiphyllum (commonly known as Peace Lilies) is a genus of about 40 species of flowering plants in the family Araceae, native to tropical regions of the Americas and southeastern Asia. They are a popular choice for offices and homes. Peace Lilies are vibrant and lovely, with verdant leaves that grace any indoor space with a touch of life. They’re also on NASA’s list of top air-cleaning plants. The really great news, though, is that peace lilies are easy to care for. With these tips, you can enjoy them for both their aesthetic and function for years to come.
Light Peace Lilies like indirect light and shade, making them ideal for indoor environments. They’re even known to do well in offices with fluorescent lights and no windows! South- or west-facing windows tend to be the best locations for Peace Lilies, providing the right mix of light. Your Peace Lily will tell you if it’s getting too much light. Yellow leaves indicate too much light, while brown streaks are a sign of scorching from direct sunlight. Move your Peace Lily if its leaves exhibit these signs.
Watering Peace Lilies are more tolerant of under-watering than over-watering. Keep plants evenly moist by watering when soil feels dry to the touch. Take care not to over-water. If your tap water has a lot of chlorine, leave it out overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate. Peace Lily leaves also enjoy a good misting, which you can do when you water throughout the summer. Watering is another area in which your Peace Lily will communicate with you. If leaves begin to droop, it’s time to water and your plant won’t be any worse for the little bit of wear. Make sure your Peace Lily’s pot has good drainage. If wilting occurs, check for soggy roots, which indicates root rot.
Fertilizing While Peace Lilies can do fine with fertilization only once or twice a year, regular fertilization in spring and summer will encourage blooms. Peace Lilies are sensitive to chemical fertilizers, so use an organic general houseplant fertilizer at one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength. Repotting and Propagating Once roots begin to show above the soil, it’s time to repot your Peace Lily. This usually occurs about every year or two. Repot into a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) bigger in diameter than the current pot.
Repotting is a good time to divide your plant. Crowns, areas where clusters of about two new leaves are growing, are a good place to divide your plant, but some people just separate roots anywhere to multiply their plant. Use soil from the old pot for the new plant so that it isn’t shocked. For smaller transplants, don’t use a pot that’s too big. Cozy roots encourage blooms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ludwigia sedoides, commonly known as Mosaic Plant, Mosaic Flower and False Loosestrife, is a herbaceous perennial plant of the family Onagraceae. It has yellow flowers that bloom from June to August.
This floating Ludwigia is native to Central and South America, where it can be found growing in stagnant waters as well as in sections of riverine environments that are free of current. It is a very common pond plant in warm climates or ponds in conservatories. Cultivation in an aquarium is a bit more complicated.
Growing Conditions and General Care Above all else, this floating stem plant requires light. Even values in the higher range of what is possible over a planted aquarium are often not enough. Outdoor culture in a well-lit pond or tub is sometimes the only way to achieve satisfactory growth with this species. Heavy fertilization with macro- and micronutrients is essential (if enough light is available) to produce attractive growth. Yellow flowers form on the floating rosettes if the plant is achieving good growth.
Winter hardy to USDA Zone 10. In St. Louis, grow as an annual in containers covered with 6 to 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) of water in full sun to part shade. Plants can be difficult to overwinter indoors. Although the usefulness of this species in the aquascape is markedly limited, its beautiful circles of reddish foliage can lend a unique texture to outdoor ponds.
Propagation Propagation can be carried out by snipping off a rosette, with a section of stem attached, from the main stem. The main part of the stem is left in the tank. A new rosette will develop on it after a short while.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Grammatophyllum is a genus of 13 currently known orchid species. The name is derived from the Greek words “gramma” (a line or streak or mark) and “phyllon” (leaf), referring to the parallel leaf veins or the markings of the perianth. This epiphytic genus occurs in dense rainforest from Indo-China, to Indonesia, the Philippines, New Guinea, and the Southwest Pacific islands.
There are two distinct growth forms in this genus. The first has very long pseudobulbs, resembling sugar cane, bearing many leaves, arranged distichous (alternating in two opposite ranks). The second has rather short thick psuedobulbs which are not covered leaf bases and bear a few leaves around the top of the psuedobulbs. The psuedobulbs are sympodial in growth, with each new growth arising from the previous growth. The flowers of most Grammatophyllum species, are generally yellow and brown.
Light Grammatophyllums grow well in moderate light intensity. Morning sun is best, until about noon. Observation of the leaf structure can be your best guide to the correct light conditions for which a type is particularly suited. Lime green colored foliage is an indication of proper light. Dark green foliage, while very attractive, is not conducive to the plant reaching it’s full blooming potential. Yellow colored foliage indicates too much light. In very mild climates, most members of this can be grown out of doors, with protection from the hot summer sun, and the colder nights of winter. Temperature The ideal annual temperature range for most members of the genus Grammatophyllum are 75 to 85 °F (24 to 30 °C) during the day and 55 to 60 °F (13 to 16 °C) at night. Plants will tolerate temperatures to 45 °F (10 °C) and up to 100 °F (38 °C) for short periods. At higher temperatures, air circulation and humidity must be increased or damage can occur.
Water Grammatophyllums enjoy frequent watering, during their growing period, but will not tolerate wet feet for extended periods. However, when growth is completed, a 2 or 3 week rest period should follow to allow the growths to mature. Generally speaking, the growing season extends from March to October. The frequency of watering is relative to the container, the temperature, air circulation, and the amount of water retained in medium in the container. Watering should be done, so the roots are approaching dryness, before rewatering. In the warmer periods, several waterings a week can be done, without worry, if the roots can dry quickly. The roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up, so clear water flushes are necessary for good growth.
Fertilizer Grammatophyllum plants should be fed consistently, when in full growth. During the spring through early fall, fertilizing every 7 days, with several clear waterings in between, will make your Grammatophyllum plants happy. In the late fall through winter, a light feeding once a month will suffice. The fertilizer formula should match the potting medium. Use 20-10-20 with tree fern, charcoal, or various inorganic aggregates, but use 30-10-10 with fir bark. We recommend non-urea based fertilizers at half strength. Non urea fertilizers provide 100% immediately available nitrogen, which urea based fertilizers do not. Whichever formula is selected, we recommend half strength at each application. As with most Orchids, Grammatophyllum roots are sensitive to fertilizer salt build up. Grammatophyllums are particularly fond of organic fertilizers, such as fish emulsion and manure teas. The organic fertilizers eliminate concern of salt build up in the medium.
Potting Grammatophyllum do not resent being disturbed, so repotting should be undertaken whenever necessary. The best time is after all flowering has ceased and new growth is just beginning. To minimize root damage, a warm water soak for 10 minutes, will make most roots very pliable and easier to remove from the container. While most Grammatophyllums will do well in clay or plastic pots. Some large-growing types such as Grammatophyllum speciosum are best grown in a wire or wooden basket. The strong rapid growing root system often breaks ordinary pots. The baskets allow free air flow over the roots, and eliminate over watering problems.
The potting medium must be well-drained, i.e. coarse fir bark, lava rock, pieces of broken pottery, chunks of tree fern, hardwood charcoal, etc. so that the roots can be wet, but then dry quickly. When dividing Grammatophyllum plants, always divide into parts with at least four psuedobulbs. Remove any dead roots from the divisions, then lay the divisions aside until new root growth begins. At that time, usually a week or so, repot the divisions in their new pots. Now the plants can be watered and fertilized as usual, without worrying about rotting them, because they retained no roots in the division. Newly repotted plants should be placed in slightly lower light for several weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Calceolaria, commonly known as Pocketbook Plants, Pouch Flowers or Slipper Flowers is a genus of plants in the Calceolariaceae family. This genus consists of about 388 species of shrubs, lianas and herbs, and the geographical range extends from Patagonia to central Mexico, with its distribution center in Andean region.
Calceolaria’s nickname (Pocketbook Plant) is well chosen. The flowers on this annual plant have pouches at the bottom which resemble pocketbooks, purses or even slippers. Growing Pocketbook Plants isn’t very complicated as long as you remember that they like their environment cool and not too bright.
Growing Conditions and General Care While this annual can be grown both indoors and out, the most popular use may be as a potted houseplant. Once you look into the native environment for this bright flower, you’ll know how to grow Pocketbook Plant. It comes from Central and South America in the cooler plains areas where water and bright sunlight aren’t so abundant. Calceolaria care works best when you try to imitate its native home. Keep the plant near a bright window, but out of direct sunlight. If your only window is on a bright southern exposure, hang a sheer curtain between the plant and outdoors to filter the brightest rays. Northern windows and tables away from the light source are more hospitable for these plants.
Pocketbook Plant care includes carefully monitoring the water supply. These plants don’t do well with too much moisture on their roots. Give the plants a thorough watering, then let the pots drain in the sink for about 10 minutes. Allow the soil to dry out until the surface is dry before watering again. Although pocketbook plant is a tender perennial, it’s grown as an annual. Once the flowers die off, you won’t be able to make a new batch appear. It’s better to simply enjoy these unusual flowers while they look good, then add them to the compost pile when they begin to dry up and wilt.
Although pocketbook plant is most often grown as a houseplant, it can be used as a bedding plant outdoors. This smaller plant can grow up to 10 inches (25 cm) tall, so place it near the front of the flower beds. Amend the soil with a good amount of compost to aid in drainage, and place the plants about a foot apart. Grow these plants early in the spring, when the night temperatures hover around 55 to 65 °F (13 to 18 °C). When the summer heat arrives, pull them and replace them with a more heat-resistant plant.
Propagation Many different types are available as seeds, with gaudy color mixes being the norm. Sow seed in a peat based compost in late summer, and grow the young seedling on through until late autumn. The plants soon develop the rosette of foliage and will need space. Pocketbook Plants can also be propagated with stem tip cuttings which should be taken in mid to late summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Catharanthus roseus, also known as Madagascar Periwinkle is a pretty blooming plant with delicate pink-white flowers that bloom throughout the summer, even under drought and low-water conditions. This perennial Madagascar native thrives in the summer heat of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 and does not tolerate frost. The plant is easy to grow and self-cleaning, making for practically care-free blooming until Thanksgiving in warm regions.
Madagascar Periwinkle is native to Madagascar but is cultivated and naturalized in most of the tropical world and in warmer climates in the United States. It can be found in a variety of woodland, forest and grassland locales, but one of its primary uses is a bedding plant in highway medians or commercial landscapes. Madagascar Periwinkle also makes a striking clumping plant for home gardens as ground cover, in beddings or edgings or in containers.
Growing Conditions and General Care Unlike many other plants, Madagascar Periwinkle is best suited for poor, well-drained soil and may even fail to thrive in soils that are too fertile. These plants need regular moisture but don’t do well with overhead watering. Madagascar Periwinkle is easily propagated with semi-ripe cuttings planted in light compost with bottom heat and high humidity, or by seeds kept in the dark at 71 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 25 degrees Celsius) until germination.
The leaves may curl during the heat of the day but recover with evening dew. The flowers drop off after blooming and don’t require deadheading. Madagascar Periwinkle is generally resistant to serious outbreaks of diseases and pests. Stem rot, leaf spots, wilts and aster yellows are some of the more common pathogens. Typical pest infestations come from aphids, spider mites and whiteflies. Diseases, which usually present as discolorations or spots, can be controlled by using certified disease-free plants and avoiding overwatering. Pests can be prevented by avoiding high levels of nitrogen fertilizer and the overuse of pesticides that also kill beneficial insects.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cirsium is a genus of perennial and biennial flowering plants in the Asteraceae, one of several genera known commonly as Thistles. They are more precisely known as Plume Thistles. Thistles are mostly native to Eurasia and northern Africa. All members of the genus have spiny, often handsome leaves and rounded heads of purple, red, pink, yellow or white flowers that somewhat resemble shaving brushes.
Certain species of Cirsium, like Cirsium monspessulanum, Cirsium pyrenaicum and Cirsium vulgare, have been traditionally used as food in rural areas of southern Europe. Cirsium oleraceum is cultivated as a food source in Japan and India. The word “Cirsium” derives from the Greek word kirsos meaning “swollen vein”. Thistles were used as a remedy against swollen veins. The flower blooms April to August.
Growing Conditions and General Care The seeds of Cirsium can be sown in either autumn or after the last frost of spring. They should be sown at a depth of 0.12 inch (3 mm). If grown indoors first then Cirsium takes about 2 to 3 weeks to germinate at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (21 to 24 degrees Celsius). The seedlings should be planted out in early spring, when it is still possible to get a frost with a spacing of about 2 feet (60 cm).
Cirisium thrives in full sun and poor, average or reach soil that is moist but well drained. Plants require little care, but deadheading limits their tendency to self-sow. They generally self-sow only in moderation and unlike weedy thistles, the seedlings are easy to pull up. Use Thistles in mixed beds, herb gardens or meadowlike plantings.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Vitis vinifera, also known as Grapevine is a wonderfully giving plant. Not only will it grow on a trellis or pergola to give summer shade, it bears edible fruit and its early spring leaf growth is used for culinary purposes. There is also the added beauty of the change in leaf color as they begin to drop, allowing winter sun to penetrate. Greek and Italian cooks and gardeners are used to training Grapevines, specifically for their leaves to make stuffed vine leaves or dolmades.
Getting Started In this day and age Grapevines are propagated from cuttings rather than seeds, as they get off to a much faster start that way. Grapevines can be purchased from nurseries, either potted in spring and summer or bare-rooted in winter. You can always grow your own vine from a cutting, as they are easy to strike and grow on their own roots, rather than being grafted. In winter, at pruning time, make a cutting of a leafless stem, around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long, with 2 or 3 nodes. Insert each cutting into a pot filled with coarse sand or propagating mix, and these will callous up and form roots and new growth by early spring, so you can plant them out where you want them to grow.
Growing Conditions Choose a sunny, well-drained position, and at planting time, dig in plenty of organic matter, including a good shovelful of compost. Dig the hole large enough for the roots to spread, and backfill with soil and compost, pressing around the area to get rid of air holes. Water in well and make sure, with a grafted vine, that the graft union is not below the soil – it should be at least 4 inches (10 cm) above the surface. Grapevines need a sunny spot to grow and tolerate most soils, but are particularly suited to those with a high pH. They do not mind chalky, limey soils as long as they are well drained.
In early spring, fertilize with a complete fertilizer to establish the new vine, and repeat each year in spring and summer. Grapevines are well adapted to growing in dry conditions and a drip-irrigation system will deliver water efficiently and adequately. It is a better method than watering overhead, as this can lead to fungal problems, such as mildew on the leaves and rotting fruit. General Care Prune the vine hard in winter, right back to the main framework of branches, as the grapevines bear fruit on the current year’s wood. In the first year of growth you could be picking a handful or two of fruit, but by the third or fourth year it will be in full swing.
The method of pruning depends on the grape cultivar. For most Grapevine types, pruning is done by cutting everything hard back to spurs or permanent buds on the main plant framework, so new growth occurs and produces fruit. The main problem with Grapevines is fungus attack, in particular powdery mildew, which can harm the leaves and fruit. The answer is to spray with a Bordeaux spray while the vine is dormant and just before the buds burst. Spray again later in the season if the weather becomes humid, as humidity affects the fruit production.So remember, vine leaves should always be carefully rinsed before being used in cooking. The Grapevine is a vigorous grower and will need to be trained up and over a pergola or on a wire strand, creating a wonderful outdoor setting.
Protecting It is important to protect the fruit on the vine as it ripens. There is a bit of controversy about using nets, as native bats and birds can become entangled in them. It is also awkward to cover these vigorous growers with nets. Horticultural waxed-paper fruit bags are available with a built-in twist-tie. The waxed bags shed water away from the fruit, making them great for humid climates. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bag for drainage which does not allow fruit fly to enter or in any way affect the bag’s usefulness.
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