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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) was once a popular medicinal herb. We’ve recently learned that it can be a carcinogenic when taken internally, but it is still used as a topical treatment for skin irritations, cuts, sprains and swelling and as livestock feed and compost. Because of its tall stature and ease of care, it is also a popular ornamental plant. Comfrey is in the same family as Borage.
Comfrey shoots up quickly early in the season and can easily reach heights of around 5 feet (1.5 m). The lower leaves are equally large, somewhat dwarfing the hanging clusters of flowers at the top of the plant. The form and size of the plants might have you thinking it’s a shrub, but it will die back to the ground in the winter and it does not get woody.
Growing Conditions Light: Full sun to partial shade. Water: Because of its tap root, Comfrey is very drought tolerant. However regular watering will keep it growing strong and blooming. Hardiness Zone: USDA Hardiness Zones 4 – 9 Soil: It is widely adapted but it will thrive in a rich organic soil. Growing Tips Comfrey can be grown from seed, but it requires a winter chilling period to geminate. If all you want is one plant, you can usually find them for a reasonable price in the herb section of local nurseries or by mail order. Plants can go outdoors once danger of frost has passed.
When starting several plants, it is more common to use root cuttings. These are 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) lengths of root which are planted horizontally 2 to 8 inches (5 to 20 cm) deep. Plant shallow in clay soil and deeper in sandy soils. You can also grow Comfrey from crown cuttings, but these will be more expensive. A crown cutting will include several eyes and may grow faster than root cuttings, however the difference is negligible. Crown cuttings are planted 3 to 6 inches (7.5 to 15 cm) deep. If you are growing several plants for harvesting, space them in a grid, 3 feet (90 cm) apart.
Comfrey is widely adapted but it will thrive in a rich organic soil. As with all rapid growers, it needs a lot of nitrogen. Comfrey gets all its nitrogen from the soil, so some type of regular organic matter is essential. It is not particular about soil pH. A neutral to acidic range of 6.0 – 7.0 is ideal. Maintenance Once Comfrey is established it will take care of itself. Each year the plant will get a little larger and the root system will get more dense. It is very hard to get rid of an established plant. Comfrey can live several decades before it begins to decline.
Because of its tap root, Comfrey is very drought tolerant. However regular watering will keep it growing strong and blooming. Pests and Diseases No insects are known to be problems of Comfrey. There is a Comfrey rust that can overwinter in roots and decrease vigor and yield, but it is not common in most areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Bomarea is a tuberous member of the family Alstroemeriaceae. There are about 100 species, some of which are non-climbing, growing more like a ground cover, although the majority are climbers. They are found from Mexico on South, through the tropics and into the Andes, down to Southern Chile, and are mostly plants of the forest understory, where they grow through adjacent vegetation in lightly shaded conditions. Some species are coastal, growing in the fog belt of Chile, so, not surprisingly they do very well in Coastal California. Other species can only be found in the high altitude Páramo of South America.
Bomarea is related to Alstroemeria where both flowers and leaves demonstrate this close relationship. The beautiful flowers of this genus are produced in a dense umbel at the end of the growing shoots. Each umbel can be composed of as many as 30 to 45 flowers if well grown, with flowers consisting of three outer tepals and three inner, sometimes of contrasting colors.
Seed Germination Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius). Planted this way the seeds can germinate in as little as 2 weeks but they can be a little erratic so don’t be despondent if they don’t all sprout at the same time as some can take longer.
If you are planting stored seeds then stratify for around 3 weeks at 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20 degrees Celsius) then 3 weeks at 41 degrees Fahrenheit (5 degrees Celsius) as this will trick the seed into thinking that winter has passed and it is time to start growing. Seeds that go through stratification may take up to 2 months to germinate. Keep growing medium moist but not wet or soggy and do not let the growing medium dry out. Once your seedling has several true leaves and are big enough to handle you should carefully prick out your new plants and place them into individual pots. Once they mature over the next few months you can then pot them on again into a large planter or container or even into your garden soil in warmer and milder climates.
Growing Conditions and General Care To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Penstemon is one of our more spectacular native plants. Found in mountainous areas and their foothills, the herbaceous species is a temperate zone darling and thrives in most areas of the western United States. Also called Beard Tongue, the plant produces dozens of tubular flowers arranged on a tall stalk.
If you have gone hiking in areas of Mexico to western North America from May to August, you will have seen these attractive flowers. Penstemon plants are related to Snapdragons and come in a variety of cultivated hues for the home gardener. The flowers are perfectly shaped to accommodate hummingbirds, who spend their nesting period at the Penstemon snack bar. Each flower has five petals and they come in hues of lavender, salmon, pink, red and white. The stems are triangular and the leaves are arranged opposite with grayish green tones. Several different species exist and more are in cultivation. The exact shape of the leaves varies in each cultivar of Penstemon plants. They may be oval or sword shaped, smooth or waxy.
Penstemon is a commonly found perennial, which may also grow as an annual in chilly or excessively hot regions. Growing Conditions The best location for your Penstemon is in a full sun area with well draining soil. Penstemon care and maintenance is minimal if the site and moisture requirements are met. Poorly draining soils and freezing temperatures while the plant is still active are the biggest causes of plant mortality. The perennial is remarkably tolerant of drought conditions and is a stalwart presence in even low nutrient soils. It has had to be adaptable to thrive in windy, exposed areas of mountain foothills.
Propagation You can grow Penstemon from seed. They begin as rosettes low to the ground before forming the characteristic flower stalk. Indoor sowing should begin in late winter. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they have a second set of true leaves. Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart and mix in a little compost at planting time to help conserve water and increase porosity.
Care and Maintenance Water the young plants at least once per week as they establish. You can reduce watering as the plant matures. Mulch around the plants to help protect the roots from winter’s cold and prevents spring weeds. The flower spire will produce seed in late summer to early fall and the petals fall away from the seeds.Penstemon makes an excellent cut flower, which will last for at least a week. Go native and plant some Penstemon plants in your sunny perennial garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Planting Speedwell (Veronica officinalis) in the garden is a great way to enjoy long-lasting blooms throughout the summer season. These easy-care plants don’t require much upkeep once established, making them ideal for the busy gardener.
An easy to care for perennial with flowers in an array of vibrant blues, pinks and white, the Speedwell is drought resistant but should be watered in the summer when there is less than an inch of rainfall per week. The plant has a long blooming season, from June to August, and is fairly pest and disease resistant as well, with the exception of some issues like powdery mildew, spider mites, and thrips.
Speedwell perennials are reportedly deer and rabbit resistant, but butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to their dizzying hues. Flowers will bloom for six to eight weeks throughout the summer months and, as a result, make beautiful cut flower additions to vase arrangements or for container gardening in mixed flower groupings.
Growing Conditions Speedwell thrives in conditions as wide ranging as full sun to partial shade and in loamy, sandy or clay dense soils. However, it does prefer a sunny location with well draining soil. The soil pH can be as liberal as neutral, alkaline or acidic, with moisture content from average to quite moist. The hardy medium sized plant, with striking 1 to 3 foot (30 to 90 cm) flower spikes, flourishes in USDA hardiness zones 3-8. The Speedwell is tolerant of a variety of conditions but prefers full sun and well drained soil.
Speedwell can be sown from seed; however, it is more commonly purchased from a nursery so planting it in the garden can take place right away in spring. General Care Speedwell plant care is relatively low maintenance. In order to facilitate maximum blooming, it is advisable to remove the faded spikes from Speedwell and periodically divide the plant every few years in the early spring or fall.
The tallest Speedwell specimens generally require staking, and in late autumn after the first frost, cut stems back to an inch or so above ground level.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Kohleria plants originated in Mexico and South America. They produce tubular and often speckled flowers in a variety of colors, and their foliage can be decorative as well. Although hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they are easily damaged by excess water, so they are usually grown as houseplants. Their culture is similar to that of African Violets, but the height of Kohlerias varies from 6 inches (15 cm) up to 4 feet (1.2 m).
Growing Conditions Light: Kohleria needs plenty of bright light to bloom. Keep out of direct sunlight. Water: Spring through fall, water thoroughly and allow the top 2 inches (5 cm) to dry out between waterings. In winter, water just enough to prevent leaves from wilting. Rhizomes store water so it’s more tolerant of dry soil than wet.
Humidity: Kohleria prefers relative humidity above 50%, but will tolerate lower levels. Use a room humidifier or a humidity tray to maintain moist air. Don’t mist this plant because the hairy leaves will trap moisture, which will cause spots and possibly botrytis. Temperature: Average room temperatures 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C). Don’t expose your plant to temps below 60°F (16°C). Soil: Peat moss-based potting mix with perlite added for good drainage. African Violet potting mix is ideal. Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks spring and summer with a high-phosphorus liquid fertilizer (such as 10-30-10) diluted by half.
General Care Put your Kohleria where it’ll get plenty of light, but out of direct sun. Filtered light from a south- or west-facing window will give it the light it needs. Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. Dry soil will cause the plant to go dormant. Soggy soil will quickly cause the rhizomes to rot.
You can expect dozens of blooms on plants in spring and summer. You’ll get the most blooms by providing plenty of bright, indirect light. This one likes to be slightly pot-bound, and blooms best this way. Repot in spring when it has outgrown its pot. Always use a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.
Propagation Divide rhizomes in spring and pot separately. Or take 4-inch (10 cm) leaf tip cuttings with at least 1 pair of leaves attached and root in moist potting mix. Cover the whole thing with plastic or a glass cloche to hold in moisture. Cuttings root easily in about 4 to 6 weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Camellias are one of the most popular winter- and spring-flowering shrubs, providing a vivid splash of color when little else is in bloom. Most spring-flowering Camellias prefer neutral to acid soil (between pH 7 and pH 5) so those on chalky or alkaline soil will struggle.
When to Plant The best time to plant them is spring, when you can see the flowers, or in autumn. If you buy one in winter, keep it somewhere sheltered and plant it in spring. Where to Plant Most Camellias we grow are raised from four species Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua. Camellia saluensis and Camillia reticulate. These are understorey plants found growing under trees near the brighter edges of woods and forests, so they want dappled light in your garden, preferably with overhead leafy shelter.
If you’re growing your Camellia in a container find it a sheltered position, ideally on a north or west-facing wall. This will ensure that the early flowers do not get browned by frost which can easily happen on an cold east-facing wall where morning sun causes a quick thaw. Southern walls are generally too warm and dry. They need a well-drained position and they will die in water-logged ground due to the lack of oxygen in the soil. They like warm, not hot summers, with plenty of humidity. Growing Camellias in Pots Choose a large rugged pot, terracotta, wood or stone, and part fill with ericaceous compost and then add your plant and back fill so that the level of the pot is level with the soil. Water well, preferably with water taken from a water butt. If you do use tap water, which tends to be alkaline, allow it to stand for a morning first.
Re-pot every other year into fresh potting compost. In the intervening years remove the top 2 inches (5 cm) of compost and add fresh compost. You can re-pot back into the same pot if you trim off up to a third of the roots to make room for fresh potting compost, or go up into a larger pot. This regime will keep your Camellia happy. Growing Camellias in the Ground Camellias are fast-growing tap-rotted plants and the new growth can snap off in windy positions so staking is advisable for the first few years until the Camellia becomes bushy. They do tolerate windy conditions however, once established, and are often used as windbreaks in gardens where they thrive.
How to Plant Dig a hole twice the size of the pot and prepare a mixture of leaf mold, garden compost and some animal manure. If this isn’t possible use a loam based compost and add a slow release fertilizer. Take the plant out of the pot and loosen the root ball with your fingers. Place the plant in the hole so that the top is level with the ground. Use a bamboo cane balanced on either side of the hole if you’re unsure. Pruning This is best done lightly in spring after flowering, in April and May, and this is good practice with all evergreens. However pruning is not necessary! Leave it alone unless it’s got too large.
Growing from Seed In warm gardens Camellias can set large seeds of hazel nut size inside quince-like fruits. Remove the brown seeds and push them into a pot filled with compost and grit, ensuring they are just below the surface. They will produce a plant within two years for most. Taking Cuttings The best time to take cuttings is between August and September. Choose new growth and cut off a section of growth. Pull side shoots away so they have a heel – a ripped off end.
Pull off the lower leaves and trim the bottom of the cutting to get rid of the wispy end and dip the cuttings into hormone rooting powder. Push the cuttings into a mixture of peat and sand and keep them in a warm place out of full sun – ideally the temperature should be 65°F (15°C). Pot up rooted cuttings in the following spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Most gardeners consider Dandelions a weed and are looking for information on how to remove it from their garden. But, once you get to know a little more about this nutritious plant, you may find yourself also wondering how to grow and harvest Dandelion plants for yourself.
While Dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamine, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store. It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
Growing Conditions and General Care At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow Dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the Dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of Dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of Dandelion you can buy. Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety. The right variety can make Dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard.
Second, try growing Dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the Dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest. The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest Dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves. You can keep your Dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.
Harvesting Much like other greens, Dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference.
Another benefit of growing Dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year. Never harvest Dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Delicate and exotic, Fritillarias may appear difficult to grow, but most Fritillaria care is simple after the large bulbs bloom. The name is derived from the Latin term for a dice-box (fritillus), and probably refers to the checkered pattern of the flowers of many species. Fritillarias are true Lilies, growing from non-tunicate bulbs. Fritillaria imperialis, also known as Crown Imperial, has the showiest flowers of the species, but some say it also has a malodorous fragrance reminiscent to that of skunk odor. These Fritillaria bulbs have nodding flowers, topped with a tuft of foliage. Another of the wildflower Fritillaria lilies is the Snakes Head, Fritillaria meleagris. This flower has a checkered or mottled pattern on the drooping blooms.
Information on the Fritillaria indicates that most are Asian or European natives; however, Fritillaria pudica is native to western North America. Information on the Fritillaria plant also describes the Chocolate Lily, Fritillaria affinis, which grows wild in southeastern Canada south to the San Francisco bay area.
Growing Conditions and General Care Unusual and hardy, Fritillaria bulbs produce best when planted in moist soil in a sunny to part shade location in the flower bed. Wildflower Fritillaria lilies are an excellent choice for the gardener who wants an out of the ordinary specimen among more common spring-blooming bulbs. Growing Fritillaria may reach 4 feet (1.2 m) or more in spring. Use wildflower Fritillarias as specimens, in groupings or as an addition to a traditional bulb bed.
Be prepared to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive. Plant larger bulbs with the base about 5 inches (12.5 cm) below the soil surface, while smaller Fritillaria bulbs should be planted about 3 inches (7.5 cm) down. Plant bulbs in well-drained soil and keep it moist until the root system is established.
Fritillaria bulbs resist deer, squirrels and bulb digging rodents and may help protect other bulbs that are favorites of the critters. Wildflower Fritillarias, as with other lily bulbs, like cool roots. If possible, plant a low growing ground cover to shade bulbs of the growing Fritillaria plant or mulch the plant to protect it from the summer sun.
Separate wildflower Fritillaria lilies every two years. Remove young bulblets and replant in moist, shady conditions for more of this unusual flower every year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Gloriosa Lilies (the genus Gloriosa), also known as Flame Lilies and Glory Lilies, thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be overwintered successfully in zone 9 with winter mulch. In cooler areas, Gloriosa Lilies can be grown successfully during the summer and lifted and stored for the winter.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well. Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies. Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole. Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods. Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming. Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
The Rafflesia, a parasitic plant, lives only on the tetrastigma vine in the jungles of Sumatra and Borneo. It produces the world’s largest flower, which measures up to 3 feet (90 cm) across and weighs 15 pounds (6.8 kg), according to the Library of Congress. Approximately 17 species of Rafflesia exist. It produces no roots, stems or leaves.
Nutrients and Water The Rafflesia grows within its host plant by sending out tiny threadlike filaments that twine into the very cells of the host. From the threadlike filaments the Rafflesia gains all the nutrients and water it requires for survival. Even though the Rafflesia is considered a plant it does not produce chlorophyll, which renders it incapable of receiving nutrients through photosynthesis as other plants do.
Damage and Life The plant spends the majority of its life embedded within its host with no visible parts to the naked eye on the outer part of the plant until the Rafflesia buds and blooms. It does very little damage to the host plant despite the fact that it constantly sucks nutrients and water.
Flowering and Pollination The Rafflesia produces a tiny bud on the host tetrastigma vine. The bud erupts near the plants roots or twining tendrils. The bud takes 12 months to swell before it blossoms. It blooms around midnight on a rainy night, according to the Oracle Education Foundation. The blossom lasts only 5 to 7 days. Flowers are either male or female and produce a pungent unpleasant aroma that many say smells similar to rotting flesh. The unpleasant smell attracts flies to help ensure pollination. The flowers appear with 5 large petals and a reddish-orange coloration. White speckling adorns each petal. Pollination is rare because most locations contain only male flowers or female flowers. In order for pollination to occur, the fly must land on the male flower and then take the pollen to the female flower. If pollination occurs, the flower produces a globular, smooth-skinned fruit measuring up to 5 inches (13 cm) in diameter. It contains thousands of seeds. Birds and squirrels enjoy eating the fruit and help to spread the Rafflesia seeds through their eliminations.
Endanger The Rafflesia is in serious danger of extinction as the rain forest is burned and cleared for crop production and urban growth. The buds are also harvested and sold because locals believe they have medicinal properties if consumed. The plant has never been cultivated in captivity and it only grows on the tetrastigma vine, so its survival is seriously threatened.
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