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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Saffron Crocus (Crocus sativus) is a delicious and colorful seasoning that is used in breads, desserts, and main dishes in many parts of the world, from England to India, from the Middle East to Scandinavia, and all around the Mediterranean. Without it, an Indian curry or a Spanish paella just wouldn’t be the same.
The bright red-orange threads you get when you buy Saffron are actually the stigmas, or female portion, of the Saffron Crocus flowers. It takes hundreds of flowers to produce a commercially useful amount, which explains why Saffron is so expensive. For the home gardener, however, two dozen Saffron Crocus will supply enough of the precious spice in the first year for a few memorable dishes. Then, with each successive year, the corms (which look like bulbs) will multiply, the size of the planting will increase, and you’ll be able to harvest more of the spicy stigmas. After 4 to 6 years, you should divide and replant the corms (do it right after the foliage has faded). Division prevents overcrowding, which can lead to a decrease in flowering.
Planting In areas where Saffron Crocus are reliably hardy—USDA Zone 6 through 8 in the South, 6 through 9 in the West—you should plant the corms as soon as you receive them. Saffron Crocus do best in full sun and well-drained soil that is moderately rich in organic matter. Ideally, the site should be relatively dry in summer, when the corms are dormant. Plant the corms 4 inches (10 cm) deep and 4 inches (10 cm) apart. If gophers, mice, or voles are a problem in your garden, plant the corms in containers or line the bed with hardware cloth or a similar wire mesh. Flowers generally come up 6-8 weeks after planting, although occasionally they wait until the 2nd fall to appear. Bloom lasts about 3 weeks. The grass-like leaves may emerge either with the flowers or soon after they appear. Sometimes they wait until the following spring. In either case, the leaves persist for 8-12 weeks, then wither and vanish, leaving no trace of the corms below until the flowers appear again in fall. It’s not a bad idea to mark the area where you’ve planted your corms, so you don’t inadvertently dig them up while planting something else.
Overwintering Saffron Crocus can be grown in areas with colder winters than Zone 6, but the corms must be lifted and brought indoors for the winter. After the first few frosts, but before the ground has frozen solid, carefully dig out the corms, place them in a wooden crate or plastic tub, and completely cover with dry peat moss or sand. Store in a cool (40-50°F/5-10°C), dry place, such as a basement. Plant them out again in the spring after all danger of frost has passed, but don’t water until you see new growth in early autumn.
Another way of growing Saffron Crocus in cold-winter areas is to plant the corms 2 inches (5 cm) deep in clay or plastic pots filled with a well-drained soil mix, and then set the pots directly in the ground, with the rims about 2 inches (5 cm) below the soil surface, so the pots don’t show. After the plants die back in the fall, move the pots into the basement and store them dry for the winter. Set the pots back out the following spring. Again, marking the pots’ location so you don’t accidentally dig into them is probably a good idea.
Harvesting and Using Three stigmas are borne in the center of each purple, cup-shaped bloom. The best time to harvest the stigmas is mid-morning on a sunny day when the flowers have fully opened and are still fresh. Carefully pluck the stigmas from the flowers with your fingers, then dry them in a warm place to preserve them for cooking. Store in a closed container. To use Saffron, steep the threads in hot liquid (water, broth, or milk, depending on the recipe) for about 20 minutes. Add both the threads and the steeping liquid early in the cooking or baking process, and the threads will continue to release their color and flavor.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Lamium (Dead Nettle) is a trailing, groundcover perennial. The name “Dead Nettle” refers to the fact that Lamium does not have the stinging hairs characteristic of other nettles. Native to Europe and western Asia, Lamium is frequently found naturalized along woodland trails and paths and colonized along the banks of streams. Its variegated leaves and colorful spring flowers make Lamium a reliable choice for brightening shady garden spots where few other perennials will grow.
Growing Conditions Lamium is undemanding and easy to grow in partial to fully shaded locations. It prefers well-drained soil but will do fine in dry shade if you provide it with regular watering. A member of the mint family, Lamium spreads quickly, is self-seeding, and will rapidly create a groundcover wherever it is planted. Its brittle, fragile stems help keep it from becoming aggressively invasive and also allow bulbs and other perennials to penetrate its foliage.
General Care In regions with cold winters, Lamium is deciduous. In milder climates, it is semi-evergreen. In either case, cut back shabby foliage after the first frost to make way for new growth in the spring. In midsummer, after the blooming period is over, prune plants back by one-third to help prevent them from becoming too invasive. The midsummer shearing also encourages a second blooming period in September. Not terribly picky, spotted Dead Nettles do just fine in average, well-drained soil. There is no need to apply fertilizer, as this can encourage them to become too robust and invasive.
Pests and Diseases Lamium is rarely troubled by disease and is generally pest-free. Slugs and snails may be occasional visitors. Check your plants regularly and, if slugs or snails are present, handpick and dispose of them as they appear. Early mornings and evenings and after periods of damp weather are the best times to hunt for these pests. Another method of control some gardeners use is placing saucers of stale beer among their plants, with the lip of the container at ground level. Slugs and snails are attracted to the liquid, fall in and drown.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Coreopsis are native American prairie and woodland plants. Their ruggedness and profuse blooms have made them popular with plant breeders and there are over 100 different species available, although not all are perennial plants.
Low maintenance, drought tolerant and long blooming, Coreopsis are work horses in a sunny flower border. Their common name, “Tickseed”, is supposedly for the seeds resemblance to ticks. That doesn’t stop the birds from devouring them, if you leave the seed heads on during the winter. Most Coreopsis are clump forming, holding their daisy-like flowers on tall stems, above the foliage. There the similarity ends. There is a good amount of variety among Coreopsis species.
Growing Conditions Light: Coreopsis will bloom best in full sun, but it can also be successfully grown in partial shade. The plants may get a bit lankier in partial shade, but they will adapt. In areas with intense dry, heat, plants may even prefer some afternoon shade. Water: They will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. Temperature: Most of the perennial Coreopsis are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones: 4-9. Soil: They are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Fertilizer: Fertilization of growing Coreopsis is not needed, and too much fertilizer may limit flower production.
Grower’s Tips Most varieties are very easy to grow and are not particular about soil quality or soil pH. Many can be grown from seed, either started indoors, 4-6 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct seeded outdoors. Many will seed themselves, however the hybrid varieties do not grow true to seed. Coreopsis will need regular water when first planted, until they are established. After that, they are quite drought tolerant. Deadheading will keep the plants blooming throughout the summer. Some of the smaller flowered varieties are difficult to deadhead and you may prefer to shear the plants, once the first flush of flowers fade. They will fill in quickly.
Most Coreopsis plants will form tidy clumps, but some of the taller species may require staking to look attractive, especially if grown in partial shade. Although they are rugged plants, they don’t tend to live more than 3 to 5 years. A decrease in flowering is a signal it is time to divide the plants or plant some new ones from seed.
Pests and Diseases For the most part, Coreopsis grow problem free. In damp seasons they many fall prey to snails and slugs and fungal diseases can affect them. To avoid these problems as much as possible, give them plenty of air circulation and plant them in full sun.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum), also known as Gravel Root, is a large clumping perennial that injects architectural interest into the late summer landscape. This robust wildflower has multiples of sturdy stems with whorls of attractive foliage. In mid-summer, plants are topped with a frothy crown of rounded rosy pink flower clusters. The vanilla scented blooms are frequented by butterflies.
It is native to northwest, eastern and central North America. Many people think of Sweet Joe Pye Weed as a weed found in the ditches along the side of the road. But is a stunning perennial in the back of a border or cottage garden, and particularly in meadows or native plant gardens. It just needs space to grow as the stand can reach heights of up to 10 feet (3 m) and widths of up to 5 feet (1.5 m). It also works great in rain gardens, or even at the edge of ponds or streams.
In the Language of Flowers, Sweet Joe Pye Weed is said to mean Delay. It is sometimes cultivated and has escaped from cultivation in parts of New Zealand. Growing Conditions and General Care Sweet Joe Pye Weed is happiest with full sun to part shade in moist to wet soils. It prefers that the soil does not dry out which is why clay works well for Joe Pye. It has no serious insect or disease problems. Sweet Joe Pye Weed just isn’t a fussy or difficult plant to grow. If you do not want Sweet Joe Pye Weed to spread hither and yon, then cut the seed heads off.
If you are propagating by seed in the fall, then plant thickly as germination is usually low. Propagation is best from softwood cuttings taken in late spring or by division in fall as they go dormant, or in the spring just as shoots first appear. Medicinal Uses Sweet Joe Pye Weed has such a rich history for healing. This plant is said to get its name from Joe Pye, who was an Indian healer from New England during the time of the Pilgrims. He is said to have used Eupatorium purpureum to treat a variety of ailments including deadly typhus outbreaks.
The entire plant is still used as an alternative medicine. The roots are the strongest part of the plant for healing. If you crush the leaves, they have an apple scent. Once dried they are burned to repel flies. Tea made from this plant is used as alternative medicine for fever, urinary tract problems, fever, rheumatism, gallstones, and fluid retention. The common name Gravel Root comes from the plant being used as a diuretic used to treat urinary infections and stones. The tops of the plant were steeped and then inhaled to treat colds. Fresh leaves were made into a poultice to treat burns.
The flower tops were even used as a good luck charm. Some Native American tribes still consider Joe Pye Weed to be an aphrodisiac.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Dianthus also known as Pinks are flowering plants that belong to a family of plants which includes Carnations and are characterized by the spicy fragrance the blooms emit. They may be found as a hardy annual, biennial or perennial and most often used in borders or potted displays.
The Dianthus plant is also called Sweet William (D. barbatus) and has a fragrance with Cinnamon or Clove notes. The plants are small and usually between 6 and 18 inches (15 to 45 cm) tall. Dianthus flowers are most often in pink, salmon, red and white hues. The foliage is slender and sparsely spread on thick stems. Dianthus had a short blooming season until 1971, when a breeder learned how to grow forms that did not set seed and, therefore, had a prolonged their bloom period. Modern varieties will typically bloom from May to October.
Growing Conditions and General Care Plant Pinks in full sun, partial shade or anywhere they will receive at least 6 hours of sun. The plants need fertile, well-drained soil that is alkaline. Wait until the danger of frost has passed when planting Dianthus and place them at the same level they were growing in the pots, with 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45) between the plants. Do not mulch around them. Water them only at the base of the plant to keep the foliage dry and prevent mildew spotting. Instructions on how to care for Dianthus are very straightforward. Water the plants when dry and apply fertilizer every six to eight weeks. You may also work a slow-release fertilizer into the soil at planting, which will release you from the need to feed the plants.
Propagation Some varieties of Dianthus are self-sowing, so deadheading is extremely important to reduce volunteer plants and to encourage additional blooming. Perennial varieties are short lived and should be propagated by division, tip cuttings or even layering. Dianthus seed is also readily available at garden centers and may be started indoors six to eight weeks before the danger of frost has passed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Hypericum is a pretty little shrub with cheery yellow flowers that have a burst of long, showy stamen in the center. All members of the genus may be referred to as St. John’s Wort. The blossoms last from midsummer until fall, and they are followed by colorful berries. St. John’s Wort plant care is a snap, so let’s find out how easy it is to grow these delightful shrubs.
Common St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum) has been used as an herbal remedy for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties since the Middle Ages. Many ancient herbalists, including Hippocrates and Pliny, recorded the medicinal properties of St. John’s wort.
Growing Conditions and General Care If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 or 6 to 10 and have a partially shaded site, you can probably grow St. John’s Wort. The plant isn’t particular about the soil type. It grows well in sand, clay, rocky soil or loam, and tolerates acidic to slightly alkaline pH. St. John’s Wort adapts to both moist and dry soil, and even tolerates occasional flooding. It also withstands drought but grows best with irrigation during prolonged dry spells. You won’t find a plant that will thrive in more situations. Growing St. John’s Wort herb in a location with too much sun can lead to leaf scorch, while too much shade reduces the number of flowers. The best location is one with bright morning sunlight and a little shade in the hottest part of the afternoon.
If your soil isn’t particularly fertile, prepare the bed before transplanting. Spread about 2 inches (5 cm) of compost or rotted manure over the area and dig it in to a depth of at least 8 inches (20 cm). Transplant the shrubs into the garden, setting them at the height at which they grew in their containers. They grow only 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm) tall with a spread of 1.5 to 2 feet (45 to 60 cm), so space them 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart. Water slowly and deeply after planting and keep the soil moist until the transplants are well-established.
St. John’s Wort makes an attractive ground cover and soil stabilizer. Once established, the plants need no care, and this makes them ideal for out-of-the-way locations. You can also use it as an edging or to mark boundaries and pathways where you don’t want to obstruct the view. Other uses include containers, rock gardens and foundation plantings. The species plants self-seed and can become weedy, particularly common St. John’s Wort. Ornamental cultivars are well-behaved plants that aren’t likely to grow out of control.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Polygonatum also known as King Solomon’s Seal or Solomon’s Seal is a close relative of the Lily of the Valley, with several similar species that are native to North America, northern Europe and Siberia, and cultivated as popular garden ornamentals. The hardy perennial has stems of 3 feet (90 cm) in height that finally curve gracefully and bear pale green, oval leaves and drooping clusters of creamy white flowers, followed by blue-black berries.
Solomon’s Seal plants are an excellent choice for woodland or shade gardens and for using as background plantings with hardy ferns. They look great when planted in large containers. Solomon’s Seal plants are usually grown from rhizomes which should be planted 2 inches (5 cm) deep in the spring or fall.
Solomon’s Seal has a rich history that goes back many thousands of years. Herbalists and healers, both in Europe and North America and the Far East, have written about its diverse effects on numerous conditions. It can be used as a herbal tincture, salve, tea or supplement. As an alternative remedy, it may offer relief, healing or mending to sports injuries and other conditions related to tendons, joints, ligaments, bones, bruises, connecting tissues, cartilage, etc. It also soothes and repairs gastrointestinal inflammation and injuries. It is effective for feminine issues, such as menstrual cramps, PMS, bleeding, and the like. Additionally, it is known to lower blood pressure and relieve dry coughs.
Growing Conditions Plants are usually started by transplants or rhizomes. Seeds of Polygonatum can take up to 2 years to sprout, so you will get some seeding in established plantings. Solomon’s Seal like a rich organic soil with a pH in the acidic to neutral zone. They need some shade to truly thrive. Damp shade is even better, although once established, they are quite drought tolerant. Plants can be started in the spring or fall. Plant only 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) deep and about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) apart.
General Care Solomon’s Seal seldom needs division. It takes several years before a clump is large enough to divide for propagation purposes. When ready, divide in early spring or fall and leave several buds on each division, for the best success. The rhizomes can be divided even further, but it will take longer for them to become established. Another option is to remove and plant just the offsets at the out edges of a clump. Solomon’s Seal does not require deadheading. The flowers are small and will drop off naturally. The foliage remains attractive all season, so the plant is virtually maintenance free. The stems even disconnect from the rhizomes on their own, after frost. But before that, the foliage turns a nice golden yellow.
Pests and Diseases Healthy Solomon’s Seal growing in good conditions seem to have few problems. If the weather is extremely damp, you may see signs of powdery mildew or another fugal disease. These should ameliorate as things dry out. Better air circulation will also help. Slugs and snails can also become a problem in damper areas.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Proteas are native to southern Africa and belong to the same family of plants (the family Proteaceae) as the Australian-grown Banksias, Grevilleas and Waratahs.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules. Selecting Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area. Soil Requirements Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot. Fertilizing We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi. Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot. Pruning Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water. For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis sylvatica) make excellent indoor container plants, requiring little care to maintain their gray-green foliage and clusters of tiny, light-blue flowers that appear throughout spring and early summer. The plants perform best in moist but well-drained soil. So a light, standard potting mix works well. Because Forget-Me-Not require plenty of air circulation, grow each plant individually in its own 12-inch/-30 cm-diameter container with bottom drainage holes. The plants are pest-resistant and even grow in nutrient-poor soil. So fertilizing them isn’t necessary. Forget-Me-Not is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Growing Conditions and General Care Place Forget-Me-Not in a south or east-facing window, where they receive full or partial sunlight. Water the soil deeply when its top 3 inches (7.5 cm) feels dry to your touch, watering until the water drips through the bottom of the pots. Don’t allow the plants to stand in water. Reduce watering to about once or twice each month in winter, while the plants are dormant. Resume normal watering in spring.
Remove the plants’ spent, or old, flowers, at their stems, pinching them off with your fingernails. Throw away the removed flowers. Removing spent flowers encourages new blooms to form. Fertilize the Forget-Me-Not once each month only if their leaves appear wilted or yellow or the plants grow very slowly during spring or summer. Mix 1 teaspoon of 5-10-10, water-soluble fertilizer with 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture to fertilize the plants in place of one watering session, applying only the amount you normally would use to water the plants. Don’t fertilize during winter while the plants are dormant. Trim off all dead foliage and dead stems throughout the growing season as well as during winter after the plants die back. Use pruning shears or scissors for the task.
Propagation If starting off Forget-Me-Not and other Myosotis plants indoors then start about 2 months in advance. The seeds of Forget-Me-Not should be sown in vermiculite. It will take from one to four weeks to germinate at 64 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 20 degrees Celsius) in the dark. It is necessary to water the Forget-Me-Nots from below to stop them rotting. Once seedlings are ready transplant into the garden and grow about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart.
Pests and Diseases Insects and disease are not too common. If problems arise, treat early with insecticides or fungicides as appropriate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Dummer. ゛☀
While often sold as a flowering perennial, Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow Yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard.
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, it should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, Yarrow is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow Yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since Yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
Growing Conditions and General Care It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant. You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing Yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
Once you have planted your Yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While Yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrows are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
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